I really like your videos. You're one of the few people, they know what the hell they're doing when it comes to replacing parts on vehicles. If so, many other people would just review their video before they uploaded it, they'd realize how stupid they look. So thank you doing a good job. From a guy who was a mechanic in one way shape or form when it come to cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc, for 45 yrs. Who says you can't teach a old dog new tricks?
Great video. I have a 2001 Dodge Durango SLT with a 4.7 liter 4x4 with over 241,000 miles on it. This video really help me change out mine. They were not clicking nor were the rubber boots cracked; I spray them with AT-205 every 5,000 miles to keep them like new. But, my inner shaft on the driver's side came out with old axle due to some rust intrusion inside the splines. Your video gave me a great heads up on the replacement. Between you and Scotty Kilmer, my Durango will last til I die and I expect at least another 40 years! Thanks again for the videos. 🍺
Great job in this video. I replaced the passenger side first, went exactly as you instructed, however the drivers side required me to remove the skid plate to get to the axial hub, in order to tap it loose.
Passenger side cv axle went out in mine. Grinding something awful. Gonna try getting it done before my graveyard shift tonight! With your vid I think I can!
Great editing man, keep up the good work the angles and lighting great stuff and I just started having problems with my dakota finally but with your videos I'll be upgraded asap 💯
The upper control arm bushings are probably shot too. Everyone I had apart after about 150,000 had to be replaced and the shock absorbers. Tyrod ends also about the same mileage
if you have clicking cv joints also check the 4x4 drive shaft as the factory one is on the transfer case output . I changed the whole shaft back to old style u joint style because I destroyed the original .
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Even with a leaky CV boot that half shaft will last for thousands of miles if you don't get around to it right away other than it'll make a mess. Thank you for watching 😊
Thank you. I really appreciate that. yeah, and matter of fact, I think i'm gonna pull the trigger on a four post lift first, and then i'm gonna get it two post also I got plenty of room in my new shop. Thank you for watching
One thing I have learned working on my 01 dakota was that there's a Vin cutoff for front axle shafts in 01 they changed the position of the c clip and from a certain point in 01 all the way to the end of 04 there one way I upgraded to the later axles in mine got the Detroit axle parts both outer and inner shafts thats the only brand cv axles I buy now
yes just ran into same issue had to order short splined intermediate shaft it was rusted in so bad to front axle needed build date before or after 9/01
Any way you can share the part number for those???? I'm about to replace mine but I know the C-Clip issue is there and not too many websites or Parts shops can tell the difference without taking the one's I have on off. Parts shops are SO heavily priced that I can't afford the difference. I've found a pair of these on Amazon for $110...but in the parts stores, they're $110 Each!
Where have you been Martin? Working on your airplane hanger? LOL. I have been working on my Dakota for years and love your vids. Those upper ball joints seem to last about 25,000 miles. I have 387,000 on my 4.7. Rebuilt at 308,000. Thanks Martin!
Yeah, that seems like all I ever do is work on that airplane hanger. It is really coming along, though. In fact, I need to do an update video. I got the studio area kind of done, and it looks awesome. Yeah, there's a few videos I need to shoot on my Dakota as well. Especially with winter approaching. There's some things I need to take care of. Yeah, my dakota actually will be hitting 300k before the year's end.
Super useful vid thank you. I know this was two years ago but how are they holding up? Thinking about getting them but want to know if they’re still good for you
Hey, just wondering about the seals. You didn't say anything about them potentially leaking after the repair. Now that the repair is done, would you replace the seal on the axle next time?
I didn't have as good of luck on mine. I did the driver's side and ended up having to take the differential apart because the half shaft was rust welded to the CV axle. Still the worst project I did on mine, but she got done.
How do you know if the shafts need replaced ? I just did all new suspension on 05 Dakota the shafts boots were ok and splines seem fine enough. I did of course notice they were not stiff like a new ball joint I see your new one seems stiff making me wonder if they wear out like a ball joint where they have movement
Fantastic video and explanation, thanks for sharing! How many miles do you have on these cv axles now? Just curious how they’ve held up as I may buy the same brand…
It's gotta be somewhere around forty-five thousand miles, and they're doing great. I'm glad Glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thank you for watching.
Hell my boot shredded on the passenger side last year and I'm still driving on it HAHAHA it's actually not clicking yet...they get replaced this year though...it's the only thing on the front I haven't replaced
Any difference in lengths from passenger to driver. Also my torsion bars are cranked giving me a 3” ish lift. Wondering if I need longer axles with my lift. Parts websites say either side works with same axle for aftermarket longer axles. Oe has a right and a left axle.
I did my bc today watching your video but I can’t seem to get the axle to go in all the way, seems there’s a bit of a gap still any suggestions to make it go in all the way, drivers side axle that meets the differential NOT passengers side. 02 4.7 4x4 Dakota
When you go to pull it out is it clipped into the C- clips? do you have to give it some effort to pull it back out because if you do it probably is in all the way.
Question: I have a 2000 Dakota 4x4 and honestly love it... I have to rebuild the motor, as I believe that it has a warped head. If it was you, would you replace the motor with another 4.7, or would you opt for a different one? I'm weighing my options at this point, so would appreciate any opinions.
If you decide to replace your 4.7 be aware of the fact that not all 4.7''s are created equal. With yours being a 2000 you will have to find a motor that has the same number of teeth or cutout points for the crankshaft positioning sensor and the camshaft positioning sensor. I can't remember off the top of my head but if memory serves me correctly 2002 and under 4.7's have a 16 tooth cutout setup and anything after 2002 has 32. Your ECM will be totally confused and the engine won't run.
@@Kolonol1 Not as easy as you think. One on the camshaft and one on the crankshaft would involve completely disassembling the internals from the block. An easy way to check for the difference, provided the engine is still in the vehicle, is to check the ECM on the passenger side fender well. If your ECM has 3 plugs it has the 16 tooth cutout configuration. 4 plugs means is has the 32.
@@martinbuilt Welp. I put in the new CV axle, when I finally got the correct axle, it went in easy peasy, but it did not fix my issue of the grinding noise when I put it in 4x4. :( Do you have a video on how to change the CV joint??
I know what you mean. I lived in Iowa for 36 years. I know all about that rust. I love it here in Southern Nevada. You could leave a piece of bare metal out for a year, and it wouldn't even have surface rust on it.
To have a truck not from New England. My god yours looks new compared to mine. We have the same truck except mines a 5sp. 04 Dak 140k lived in MA it’s whole life. Rusty. Really Rusty. I bet mine weighs less than yours when unloaded! Lol
Yeah I just love Southern Nevada vehicles, absolutely no rust still the factory paint on the frame and underside looks like it was just painted on a few months ago.
I feel for you guys. Doubt I’d be into cars if I had to deal with that salt rust. I’m in So CA. You should see mine. The exhaust is not even rusty. Lol.
unfortunately , your directions must be for dakota truck , none of your info in vid was pertinent to 2004 durango, wrench sizes wrong , what you have to move out of the way to do etc ,
In 2004 Durango made a huge change to the front suspension to the knuckles where the rack and pinion is mounted, many things changed on that vehicle year.
@@jarydfolkers4965 well you didn't... I'm a full-time diesel mechanic I do this stuff for a living, I've talked to Martin for a while now... I'm giving him some advice and he's giving me some advice... When someone does what you just did and acts like an ass to somebody who's trying to give some friendly advice, it don't look so good on you... It is better to be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.
I really like your videos. You're one of the few people, they know what the hell they're doing when it comes to replacing parts on vehicles. If so, many other people would just review their video before they uploaded it, they'd realize how stupid they look. So thank you doing a good job. From a guy who was a mechanic in one way shape or form when it come to cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc, for 45 yrs. Who says you can't teach a old dog new tricks?
Great video. I have a 2001 Dodge Durango SLT with a 4.7 liter 4x4 with over 241,000 miles on it. This video really help me change out mine. They were not clicking nor were the rubber boots cracked; I spray them with AT-205 every 5,000 miles to keep them like new. But, my inner shaft on the driver's side came out with old axle due to some rust intrusion inside the splines. Your video gave me a great heads up on the replacement. Between you and Scotty Kilmer, my Durango will last til I die and I expect at least another 40 years! Thanks again for the videos. 🍺
Thank you I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Good luck on the next 241000 miles I'm sure you'll make it.
Thank you for the video. This would appear to be a good time to replace the seal while you're already there.
Great job in this video. I replaced the passenger side first, went exactly as you instructed, however the drivers side required me to remove the skid plate to get to the axial hub, in order to tap it loose.
thanks Martin! thanks for setting up the cameras and lights for great visibility.
Thank you for watching and noticing all the hard work I put into these videos.
Passenger side cv axle went out in mine. Grinding something awful. Gonna try getting it done before my graveyard shift tonight! With your vid I think I can!
Every time I watch your videos, they make my day, thanks for all you do and making very good content and so much educating and entertaining!!!😂
Thank you I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked them and find them helpful and entertaining.😁
Great editing man, keep up the good work the angles and lighting great stuff and I just started having problems with my dakota finally but with your videos I'll be upgraded asap 💯
Thank you I really appreciate that. I tried to do a good job on these videos to make it clear and understandable.
@@martinbuilt very good work thank you again 💯🙌
Perfectoo muy bien gracias x compartir y recibe saludoss desde Atizapán de Zaragoza edo de México
Hi Martin,
You helped me a lot with my 05 Dakota Thank you
Greetings from Austria 🇦🇹
You are very welcome. My mom is from Austria, I haven't been there since I was 12.
Servus
It’s a small world after all…
Thanks again
Mucchas gracias Señor
Me ha sido de mucha ayuda este vide
that actually looks way easier than I thought it would be
To say Thank You....is an Understatement. Your video Helped me from start to Finish.🙏🏾
That is awesome I'm glad to hear you found it helpful. 😊👍
Great video, great camera views all the time! Thank you
The upper control arm bushings are probably shot too. Everyone I had apart after about 150,000 had to be replaced and the shock absorbers. Tyrod ends also about the same mileage
if you have clicking cv joints also check the 4x4 drive shaft as the factory one is on the transfer case output . I changed the whole shaft back to old style u joint style because I destroyed the original .
Great video! I just discovered my passenger side one was leaking over the weekend.
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Even with a leaky CV boot that half shaft will last for thousands of miles if you don't get around to it right away other than it'll make a mess.
Thank you for watching 😊
@@martinbuilt that's good to know!
you do a very good job explaining and camera work!! I do believe that you deserve a twin post lift!!!😂Keep on wrenching
Thank you. I really appreciate that. yeah, and matter of fact, I think i'm gonna pull the trigger on a four post lift first, and then i'm gonna get it two post also I got plenty of room in my new shop.
Thank you for watching
Honored to be the first thumbs up 👍 and like on this!!!
Thank you, glad you liked it. 😊👍
One thing I have learned working on my 01 dakota was that there's a Vin cutoff for front axle shafts in 01 they changed the position of the c clip and from a certain point in 01 all the way to the end of 04 there one way I upgraded to the later axles in mine got the Detroit axle parts both outer and inner shafts thats the only brand cv axles I buy now
yes just ran into same issue had to order short splined intermediate shaft it was rusted in so bad to front axle needed build date before or after 9/01
Any way you can share the part number for those???? I'm about to replace mine but I know the C-Clip issue is there and not too many websites or Parts shops can tell the difference without taking the one's I have on off. Parts shops are SO heavily priced that I can't afford the difference. I've found a pair of these on Amazon for $110...but in the parts stores, they're $110 Each!
@@MatoCaska best way to order is to look for the build date of your truck when I replaced mine I put the 02 and up axles in
@@matty2helpfull Thank you!
@@MatoCaska your welcome I found a entire axle kit on Amazon that i used and it has been great. It had complete inner and outer axle shafts
Thanks for the video
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful
Good to see you uploading again Martin.I was starting to worry about you...
yeah, I lost 5 videos I was working on. I hit one wrong key on the computer and lost it all.🙁🤬
It was hard to get motivated again.
That sucks.....
@@martinbuilt what do you use for editing?
@@JF32304 Windows Movie Marker
@@martinbuilt there isn't a recovery directory? Cached files... What wrong key did you press?
Thanks. Great vid. Now to go out and do mine.
Go for it!
gracias martin me han servido mucho sus videos felicidades,saludos desde mexico.
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Pretty good video, thanks !
Very well done video.
Thank you
Where have you been Martin? Working on your airplane hanger? LOL. I have been working on my Dakota for years and love your vids. Those upper ball joints seem to last about 25,000 miles. I have 387,000 on my 4.7. Rebuilt at 308,000. Thanks Martin!
Yeah, that seems like all I ever do is work on that airplane hanger. It is really coming along, though. In fact, I need to do an update video. I got the studio area kind of done, and it looks awesome.
Yeah, there's a few videos I need to shoot on my Dakota as well. Especially with winter approaching. There's some things I need to take care of.
Yeah, my dakota actually will be hitting 300k before the year's end.
@@martinbuilt thanks for the update!
Very helpful video, thanks!
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.😎👍
Super useful vid thank you. I know this was two years ago but how are they holding up? Thinking about getting them but want to know if they’re still good for you
Very sharp clean video great job .
Thank you, James, 😊👍
@@martinbuilt when time allow view my upstart channel .
Great tutorial, thanks.
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Hey did you loosen the torsion bar or leave the tension on it before you let the ball joint go?
Any tips on how to get it off the stub shaft if beating on it and prying it didn't budge it?
Thanks
Love the vids Martin. Looks like you need a new outter tie rod end too. Keep up the awesome work.
Thank you, Yep I saw that tie rod, I'll get that one of these days.
@@martinbuilt you've helped me so much at least with your motor vids. I got the 4.7 but mine is 2wd. So most repairs are the same but still different.
Hey, just wondering about the seals. You didn't say anything about them potentially leaking after the repair. Now that the repair is done, would you replace the seal on the axle next time?
Awesome video my friend 👍😁
Thank you 😊
Good ole dodge😎
I didn't have as good of luck on mine. I did the driver's side and ended up having to take the differential apart because the half shaft was rust welded to the CV axle. Still the worst project I did on mine, but she got done.
sure you saw boot on tie rod end
Yeah I did see that.
How do you know if the shafts need replaced ? I just did all new suspension on 05 Dakota the shafts boots were ok and splines seem fine enough. I did of course notice they were not stiff like a new ball joint I see your new one seems stiff making me wonder if they wear out like a ball joint where they have movement
Video was great except u didn't mention the jack stand under a arm. That screwed me,
Fantastic video and explanation, thanks for sharing! How many miles do you have on these cv axles now? Just curious how they’ve held up as I may buy the same brand…
It's gotta be somewhere around forty-five thousand miles, and they're doing great.
I'm glad Glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thank you for watching.
Hell my boot shredded on the passenger side last year and I'm still driving on it HAHAHA it's actually not clicking yet...they get replaced this year though...it's the only thing on the front I haven't replaced
Have you done or will you do a inner tie rod or complete steering rack replacement? I think that job is in my future. Appreciate your videos.
I haven't done the tie rod ends as of yet. I do have one that has a boot that is damaged, so I may do that in the future.
Where can we get new shock hardware for front and rear
Is it safe to drive if I remove an axle without putting a new one in?
Any difference in lengths from passenger to driver. Also my torsion bars are cranked giving me a 3” ish lift. Wondering if I need longer axles with my lift. Parts websites say either side works with same axle for aftermarket longer axles. Oe has a right and a left axle.
Either axle shaft works on either side, they are both the same.
is that a 4WD truck?
Have you ever changed the stub shaft on the passenger side?
Here's a video I did on how to remove and replace a stub shaft.
hlttps://ua-cam.com/video/0EYR1YfpgKk/v-deo.html
I did my bc today watching your video but I can’t seem to get the axle to go in all the way, seems there’s a bit of a gap still any suggestions to make it go in all the way, drivers side axle that meets the differential NOT passengers side. 02 4.7 4x4 Dakota
When you go to pull it out is it clipped into the C- clips?
do you have to give it some effort to pull it back out because if you do it probably is in all the way.
Anybody know the part number for the dust debris shield?
Question: I have a 2000 Dakota 4x4 and honestly love it... I have to rebuild the motor, as I believe that it has a warped head. If it was you, would you replace the motor with another 4.7, or would you opt for a different one? I'm weighing my options at this point, so would appreciate any opinions.
Go with an H.O. 4.7 if you're going to do it.
Stay with the 4.7 man...good engines and easy to work on...easy to upgrade...
If you decide to replace your 4.7 be aware of the fact that not all 4.7''s are created equal. With yours being a 2000 you will have to find a motor that has the same number of teeth or cutout points for the crankshaft positioning sensor and the camshaft positioning sensor. I can't remember off the top of my head but if memory serves me correctly 2002 and under 4.7's have a 16 tooth cutout setup and anything after 2002 has 32. Your ECM will be totally confused and the engine won't run.
@@heavymetalrockman that's an easy fix...changing your gears
@@Kolonol1 Not as easy as you think. One on the camshaft and one on the crankshaft would involve completely disassembling the internals from the block. An easy way to check for the difference, provided the engine is still in the vehicle, is to check the ECM on the passenger side fender well. If your ECM has 3 plugs it has the 16 tooth cutout configuration. 4 plugs means is has the 32.
My hole axle and ball barrings broke 💔 😢
That sucks hopefully you'll find this video helpful.
I need to do this on my 2001 Dakota, when I put it in 4x4 the front right click, click, clicks.
That is a good sign of a worn CV
@@martinbuilt My Dodge is manufactured in 09-00, is the part # for Axle shaft you linked the correct one for that year?? Thanks.
@@martinbuilt Welp. I put in the new CV axle, when I finally got the correct axle, it went in easy peasy, but it did not fix my issue of the grinding noise when I put it in 4x4. :( Do you have a video on how to change the CV joint??
Assume that's easier than I thought
here in Indiana every thing rusts out fast.
I know what you mean. I lived in Iowa for 36 years. I know all about that rust. I love it here in Southern Nevada. You could leave a piece of bare metal out for a year, and it wouldn't even have surface rust on it.
I have a 2001 Cali Dakota and its pristine, practically no rust.
@@rainmaker3700
It makes working on them so much easier.
Haha break out big birtha
sometimes a BFH is what it takes.⚒
Thank you for watching.
To have a truck not from New England. My god yours looks new compared to mine. We have the same truck except mines a 5sp. 04 Dak 140k lived in MA it’s whole life. Rusty. Really Rusty. I bet mine weighs less than yours when unloaded! Lol
Yeah I just love Southern Nevada vehicles, absolutely no rust still the factory paint on the frame and underside looks like it was just painted on a few months ago.
@@martinbuilt Yes. Looks brand new to me. Every time you make a vid with the Dak I am endlessly inspecting the cleanliness of yours. Stay well Martin!
I bet I can beat that I plow with mine and have the most rust ! also here in MA lol wait it's new england patina
I feel for you guys. Doubt I’d be into cars if I had to deal with that salt rust. I’m in So CA. You should see mine. The exhaust is not even rusty. Lol.
unfortunately , your directions must be for dakota truck , none of your info in vid was pertinent to 2004 durango, wrench sizes wrong , what you have to move out of the way to do etc ,
In 2004 Durango made a huge change to the front suspension to the knuckles where the rack and pinion is mounted, many things changed on that vehicle year.
If you are going to go with an impact, do yourself a favor...Snap-On or Milwaukee...otherwise it's just a waste of money...
Orrr keep your comment to yourself, if it works it works bub
@@jarydfolkers4965 well you didn't... I'm a full-time diesel mechanic I do this stuff for a living, I've talked to Martin for a while now... I'm giving him some advice and he's giving me some advice... When someone does what you just did and acts like an ass to somebody who's trying to give some friendly advice, it don't look so good on you... It is better to be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.
@@Kolonol1 yeah your funny🤡
@@jarydfolkers4965 you're not
thank you for the video sir!