Low compression might be due to the rods being slightly too short (or perhaps compressed). Only a tiny difference in length is going to have a massive impact on ratio.
There are motors with 5:1 compression from the factory, any amount is fine. The problem here is leakdown from the lack of oil on the worn rings, all that compression is escaping.
The simple fact of a dry engine already reduces compression (increases blowby)... I think he should try doing it with the oil pan installed and oil in it. That also can add strenght to the rods (wet wood).
@@mexiquenfrance6084 Not worth the effort and waste of oil. This was just a gag. If it actually did run and got up to even idle speed those conrods would shatter like.... wood. I can think of a couple of exotic hardwoods that might be able to take it, but you would need to laminate it in cross-ply veneers, so it would be more like a composite than actual wood.
Powder extinguishers shoyld be banned in car shops as the chemicals used corrode every electrical component that isnt coated in epoxy or very high quality protected connectors.
@@ricksanchez7999 Why are American cars so shitty? Can't they spend extra few hundred dollars to make it last for a lifetime? So far nobody I know has ever had to change a starter in any of the European cars, even the ones 15+ years old. It definitely happens to someone but it's super rare.
I'm just glad their commercial for Carly actually said the truth that they require service for all features, it's not just one time. Very misleading. Good guys @Garage 54.
Try gunpowder in redlining engine...like make remote bucket of gunpowder tip into carburator of lada in redline with string...maybe contact kalash group for colaboration
@@tonskulus ya. My thought is make the block, make the cylinder separate and then the head. That way you can use long and strong bolts to hold it together, you can also make the cylinder thicker for added strength. And it is easier to fabricate the block and all the bearing spots for the crank. Also I'd use a main gurdle instead of main caps.
I think if they would have manufactured the crank from one piece of wood on a lathe it might have worked, for a little bit. I think they should try casting a set of rods out of fiberglass cloth and resin, much stronger than wood. I love watching you guy, you create some cool stuff and do some crazy experiments and have fun doing it.
There are some woods from Africa (I don't remember the name ) that is so hard you can't drill it or drive a nail in. It is often used in flooring for truck and trailer beds and may actually hold up enough to run for a much longer time. Persimmon wood is very oily and hard and was used for bearings before modern plastics replaced it. It might work for the main bearings.
should try to collaborate with a wood working youtuber who can make these pieces in the strongest way possible by having knowledge of grain orientation, different species of wood
Agreed. Also I'd make them longer since the wood will change is size. Since the main issue was compression having longer rods would help fix the change of there length.
Wood has like, what? 1/100th the strength of steel and iron? These videos are fun, but these wooden parts are a little silly. Why not make a connecting rod out of ice cream too?
Proof of concept, it did work. I think the main issue was the use of cheap, laminated fir wood. Not only causing the instant breakages, but the conrods would have been too flexible. The flexing conrods in turn causing low compression and too high ignition point. Brazilian walnut or Olive wood would have been better. But a really interesting video! One is thinking "wooden valves"....
There's an old school mechanic for you. Puts a fire out WITH HIS FREAKING HAND. Must be all those decades of exposure to gasoline, used oils, caustic chemicals and asbestos.
I enjoy this content so very much. Literaly every childhood wonder ive had he has made a vid on(covering the car in lights was an actual wonder i had as a kid looking at 18wheelers and wondering how they power all those lights)
Get some of that Osage orange wood, the one so hard it dulls drillbits and try again, the con rod idea might even work long enough to put in a car and slip the clutch forward.
Im going to say from the start, maybe plywood might be better for a con rod as it might have strength in both the horizontal and vertical directions. Le us see how it goes, writing at 2.32 in the video.
I cant wait to watch this video as I used to be an inspector for Albion Engineering in the UK and used to inspect con rods before they went to Fords. Im 100% sure what will happen in this video. Great video but I was hoping for it to start rev high and have splinters hitting the camera :) All im saying is your wooden con rods would not have passed inspecting at Albion lol Iv seen engines made out of many things but as soon as they hit high revs they rattle apart of brake.
I think if you used the right brew of plywood, layered them where the grains crossed, and put bushings in the small end, bearing shells in the big end, it might actually stay running for more than a few moments.
I have theory on why it was so hard to start. Right after that first rod failed, the piston kept traveling until it smashed into the top of the combustion chamber. This caused at the very LEAST one bent valve. The engine has to overcome being short one cylinder as well as the load of that jammed "up" valve dragging on the camshaft system like a brake preventing it from building the RPM's to keep it's self running.
You could hear the improperly timed cycle. This engine did not have it's timing chain/belt aligned properly, which contributed to the low compression. You could hear valves opening at the wrong time as it tried to start, contributing to the low compression.
maybe use metal caps with the wooden rods. use baltic birch plywood which is very strong. glue the plywood layers together and clamp the layers while drying. these guys really need a cnc
Con rods usually break between the exhaust and intake stroke, only then they experience tension. Between compression and expansion stroke the movement is the same, but then the explosion pushes the piston down.
@@sthenzel Yes, on one of our race engines we noticed the only time it would eat it was shutting off the throttle at high rpm. The lack of "cushion" from the next next air/fuel charge was enough to push the rod too far. Full load, just fine 😊
@@TheGingerJonny The sudden high intake vacuum was too much Don´t know if it was a naturally aspirated engine, in a supercharged or turboed system it maybe easier to avoid, but only in a pull-through setup.
I think wooden hockey stick handles would work, the laminations would make them stronger than wood alone and the end cap could be cut with the laminations horizontally for more strength.
when you have done all the testing with wood. Use those builded wooden parts to build a totally wooden engine for like an "youtube art" or some shit. Memories combined :D
I've been watching a few videos of people make bulletproof panels out of HDPE plastic bottles you should try making a pair of crank arms out of that HDPE plastic I still think you're like the uncle every kid would love to have that's off to you 👍✌️
Theoretisch müsste das schon gehen, der Pleuel Anschluss an der Kurbelwelle muss nur materialgerecht ausgeführt werden. Holz hat 30 % der Festigkeit von Eisen aber wiegt nur knapp 10%. Das ganze wird doch in der Hauptlast auf Stoss belastet,. Die Pleuel Form müsste nur angepasst werden. Ich sage Mal ein Multiplexkern und beidseitig mit Esche aufgedoppelt ( pu- Klebstoff als Verbindung). Einen Versuch ist es wert! Wichtig ist, durchgehenden Faserverlauf zu realisieren!
That's actually the new frontier of engine parts manufacturing. The new Porsche GT2 RS has 3D printed pistons made by Mahle. They are actually better than conventional pistons. www.motorauthority.com/news/1128908_porsche-improves-efficiency-power-with-3d-printed-pistons
You guys are crazy entertaining. I have to give you props for trying some of the nuttiest ideas ever. Keep up the good work. I think we call those piston rods. I think you guys are lucky not to get hurt with this one.
These guys should try fabricating a rotor for a rotary engine with wood, although it would be a massive pain to have to take the entire engine apart to swap the rotor.
Do the whole internals out of wood, get a cnc to make all the parts so they don't break as easy and is all balanced and made to the right size, now that i want to see.
How about using plywood canrods? Plywood has better durability to normal wood and wood on its self is pretty good to store some oil in it, so lubrication should not be issue, except maybe creating seal.
Be interested to see if it worked if you treated the wood, lots of options oil+concrete mix works great or just oil soaked. TBH a wood CNC would be amazing hehe
значительно упрощено. Вы должны добавить вкладыши подшипника коленчатого вала, а также подшипники поршневого пальца, чтобы сделать его сопоставимым. Также подойдет другой тип дерева. однако, как упрощение и забавная попытка, которая определенно является основным и отличным контентом этого канала, это здорово.
If it had an insert made of tensioned steel cable, it would have lasted longer, because it would have completely taken the pulling force and would have left the wood only to push!
Oil saturated heavy woods usef in bearing blocks even in modern machinery might work as pistons for a while. Getting the tolerances right would be a challenge
try some good plywood, that might work as it has fibers running both ways or sandwich some thin boards together yourself so that you have grains running both ways.
Who caught the ending there haha. nice little sneek in the video editing department haha. was wondering why such a long pause at the end haha. like if u stayed and herd it to haha. this made my day.
Con rods are like baseball; you have to have good wood! But in this case, the big end should be as big as the block allows for strength and still have clearance. Also, use washers under the bolts and nuts.
Try carbon fiber Easiest way : buy cf boards and cnc cut them then epoxy glue the profiles until you get the right thickness, then cnc carve if necessary
You have low compression because there is no oil between cylinder and piston , for your test is enought to take a small amout of oil into combustion chamber and it will works
30 seconds in, my prediction is if they just saw them out of that big piece of wood, they'll break on a plane parallel to the cap bolts, just inboard of the cap bolts. That's where it has the least area, and the force could be called "shear parallel to the grain", in which wood is weak. Second most likely failure is along the grain, between the wrist pin and the small end. Let's find out!
HEY, how about your team make a complete wooden working replica of a Lada engine that is twice the size of a Lada engine and using solid hardwood? Here's the idea in more detail. Your team has had some experience now making wooden engine parts. The problem is the reduced strength of the wood at those sizes. So, make the engine 2x scale (twice as big) and use solid hardwood. This would mean every part would be twice as thick and you might just get a working wooden engine. How long it will last though, that is to be seen. Some woods are better than others at withstanding the punishment it would have to endure in an engine. If anyone reading this wants to see them do this, thumbs this up. Maybe they or someone they know will see it and get the idea in their head.
Low compression might be due to the rods being slightly too short (or perhaps compressed). Only a tiny difference in length is going to have a massive impact on ratio.
That's exactly what I was thinking too. Doesn't take much slack to lower the compression considerably.
But this is Russia. Just enough is good enough.
There are motors with 5:1 compression from the factory, any amount is fine. The problem here is leakdown from the lack of oil on the worn rings, all that compression is escaping.
The simple fact of a dry engine already reduces compression (increases blowby)... I think he should try doing it with the oil pan installed and oil in it. That also can add strenght to the rods (wet wood).
@@mexiquenfrance6084 Not worth the effort and waste of oil. This was just a gag. If it actually did run and got up to even idle speed those conrods would shatter like.... wood.
I can think of a couple of exotic hardwoods that might be able to take it, but you would need to laminate it in cross-ply veneers, so it would be more like a composite than actual wood.
Who needs a fire extinguisher when you have a hand.
Why woukd u flood it
Or instead of a fire extinguisher,be vigilant next to the fire with a can of starting fluid.
😂😂😂
Powder extinguishers shoyld be banned in car shops as the chemicals used corrode every electrical component that isnt coated in epoxy or very high quality protected connectors.
@@volvo245 And that's why CO2 extinguishers are commonplace
Not sure about engine but that starter motor done well 😎
Lol I think I wanna put it in my car if it survived that lol I go through about a starter every few months on my new 2020 Camry
Just to mention I only start my car maybe 3 times a day, and the starter in it is like the size of a potato turning over a V6
And that battery!
of course, it has no load so it does it well for long
@@ricksanchez7999 Why are American cars so shitty? Can't they spend extra few hundred dollars to make it last for a lifetime?
So far nobody I know has ever had to change a starter in any of the European cars, even the ones 15+ years old. It definitely happens to someone but it's super rare.
‘The strange knocking noise in your engine turned out to be a woodpecker’
Russian woodpecker
Could have also had termites as well!
@@G.petrov998 lol
"If you like us take the health of your car seriously" - Guy who destroyed hundreds of cars in his experiments
I'm just glad their commercial for Carly actually said the truth that they require service for all features, it's not just one time. Very misleading. Good guys @Garage 54.
I'm getting wood already ;)
Y'know what I mean?
*sigh* PC... He's just a voiceover for the old awesome Russian guy. Doesn't mean he treats his car like that... Does it?
Guy almost caught on fire.
Everybody laughs
True Russian moment.
yeah more like a true slav moment, not only russians behave like that mate
@@CallMeDezy Yeah, I forgot to mention slav after sharing my comment, thanks for mentioning.
@@x5N__ Thanks you for mentioning the mention, so everything is mentioned.
@@MiGujack3 No problem, I did my job for mentioning your mention that I already mentioned, so everything is now mentioned.
@@x5N__ please stop 😂
Solid wood with a longitudinal grain will work, that block board was failing at the glue joints.
My thoughts exactly. They might as well use pressed shavings.
Get some good hard wood (Oak, Ash, Walnut) that has not been glued together! :)
Glue joints can be stronger than the wood if there is enough surface area at the connection and they give it time to dry.
Not true. Only plywood can survive high revs the longest period of time.
@@Thunder_Yoda I'd say go with Densified Wood.
Or perhaps Ebony.
@@micowikstrom7182 Agree. Plywood is the only thing that would even have a chance.
The unsung hero of this video is that long suffering starter motor.
Bravo for the starter, go starter go!!!
Try gunpowder in redlining engine...like make remote bucket of gunpowder tip into carburator of lada in redline with string...maybe contact kalash group for colaboration
There was an attempt. It didn't end well...
ua-cam.com/video/r3HmdcTwHOU/v-deo.html
You know Vlad, some day the ladas will rise and one of them will replace your bones with pieces of wood
Now there is an idea. How about make some engine parts out of cow bones. Bone is tougher than wood.
Next just do a fully wooden engine block and heads.
Yeah:)
I was just gonna suggest that!
Simple wooden 2-stroke engine might actually work (for a while) :)
@@tonskulus ya. My thought is make the block, make the cylinder separate and then the head. That way you can use long and strong bolts to hold it together, you can also make the cylinder thicker for added strength. And it is easier to fabricate the block and all the bearing spots for the crank. Also I'd use a main gurdle instead of main caps.
@@tonskulus Does Lada make scooters? 😁
I think if they would have manufactured the crank from one piece of wood on a lathe it might have worked, for a little bit. I think they should try casting a set of rods out of fiberglass cloth and resin, much stronger than wood. I love watching you guy, you create some cool stuff and do some crazy experiments and have fun doing it.
9:42 this man just put his hand on the fire putting it out for a few seconds just keeping it there
It wasn’t a very large fire I put out small fires I start in the shop by stepping on them or slapping them out
tough like bull!
A common practice for non-wimpy mechanics
Awww u kids today are raised soft
@@girlsdrinkfeck I’m 17
There are some woods from Africa (I don't remember the name ) that is so hard you can't drill it or drive a nail in. It is often used in flooring for truck and trailer beds and may actually hold up enough to run for a much longer time. Persimmon wood is very oily and hard and was used for bearings before modern plastics replaced it. It might work for the main bearings.
should try to collaborate with a wood working youtuber who can make these pieces in the strongest way possible by having knowledge of grain orientation, different species of wood
Agreed. Also I'd make them longer since the wood will change is size. Since the main issue was compression having longer rods would help fix the change of there length.
Yes solid hardwood with a vertical grain would have worked for a while, that block board was far too weak.
I would love to see you make connecting rods out of “JB Weld”. You know, that binary, cold weld, steel reinforced epoxy stuff.
Use oak wood cut with the grain going down the length of the rod, and use metal endcaps. That might work.
Wood has like, what? 1/100th the strength of steel and iron? These videos are fun, but these wooden parts are a little silly. Why not make a connecting rod out of ice cream too?
The wooden engine that woodn't run for long.
Shut up and take my like.
You mean "for log" right?
@@onyxphantom6762 😁
the wooden wood that wood woodnt wood.
Woody Wood packer
the spring in the wood is is changing the timing on every piston..very educational good video
9:19 man I love these guys :))
I threw a rod on a 2000 Subaru. Came straight up out of the top of the block. Blew out all the oil. It would still start and run after. Amazing.
I love how they spend this much time making these videos it’s amazing I love y’all so much
Proof of concept, it did work.
I think the main issue was the use of cheap, laminated fir wood. Not only causing the instant breakages, but the conrods would have been too flexible. The flexing conrods in turn causing low compression and too high ignition point.
Brazilian walnut or Olive wood would have been better.
But a really interesting video!
One is thinking "wooden valves"....
valve stems are too thin...around 4mm on many small 4 cylinder engines
Thank you garage 54 from distracting me from a time in my life that has been accompanied by bad thoughts.
I love that plop sounds when the engine is trying to start 😍🔥
There's an old school mechanic for you. Puts a fire out WITH HIS FREAKING HAND. Must be all those decades of exposure to gasoline, used oils, caustic chemicals and asbestos.
Siberia fire is warm
I think bamboo might have some success, too. the naturally curved cross section of bamboo could be particularly helpful for those end connectors.
10:45 touches open fire casually
Small fire, not enough to burn your hand, I put out small shop fires with my hands or shoes all the time
@@fishcane1 got it, my concern was with touching any burning fuel on the carb.
how about an engine made of lead glass ? pistons+cylinder
hhhMMMMM !!
Sadly it's beyond their capabilities.
But if they would have it done, then they could be the first to make working whole-glass engine.
@@biglightball i'm really curious how it will perform (if it works ofc)
I enjoy this content so very much.
Literaly every childhood wonder ive had he has made a vid on(covering the car in lights was an actual wonder i had as a kid looking at 18wheelers and wondering how they power all those lights)
Get some of that Osage orange wood, the one so hard it dulls drillbits and try again, the con rod idea might even work long enough to put in a car and slip the clutch forward.
I believe Fords already come with these.
That's why the F150 (and Corolla) is the best selling vehicle of all time... 😑
Savage
@@pillowbugg Cabbage
Must be a Chevy owner.
and traxxas 3.3s
Respect you have to love the fact you guys try everything we won't. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
When you're running a bit cheap on engine parts :
Im going to say from the start, maybe plywood might be better for a con rod as it might have strength in both the horizontal and vertical directions. Le us see how it goes, writing at 2.32 in the video.
I cant wait to watch this video as I used to be an inspector for Albion Engineering in the UK and used to inspect con rods before they went to Fords. Im 100% sure what will happen in this video. Great video but I was hoping for it to start rev high and have splinters hitting the camera :) All im saying is your wooden con rods would not have passed inspecting at Albion lol Iv seen engines made out of many things but as soon as they hit high revs they rattle apart of brake.
I think if you used the right brew of plywood, layered them where the grains crossed, and put bushings in the small end, bearing shells in the big end, it might actually stay running for more than a few moments.
cross grain with epoxy resin could help. i like this idea.
I have theory on why it was so hard to start. Right after that first rod failed, the piston kept traveling until it smashed into the top of the combustion chamber. This caused at the very LEAST one bent valve. The engine has to overcome being short one cylinder as well as the load of that jammed "up" valve dragging on the camshaft system like a brake preventing it from building the RPM's to keep it's self running.
You could hear the improperly timed cycle. This engine did not have it's timing chain/belt aligned properly, which contributed to the low compression. You could hear valves opening at the wrong time as it tried to start, contributing to the low compression.
Making these out of a hard plywood like Baltic birch would likely allow them to last longer and less breaking of the caps.
I'm from american in a mechanic 🧰.. I love this channel. Cheers from NY
Most intersting channel on UA-cam! Nevr clickbaits keep up the good videoes! Love from Finland!❤
what you need is thin sheets and place them with the granis going diffreant directions like laminate the ply wood way multi layers
That older guy is awesome, clearly he’s seen many Lada carbs catch on fire😆
This is what peak performance looks like.
maybe use metal caps with the wooden rods. use baltic birch plywood which is very strong. glue the plywood layers together and clamp the layers while drying.
these guys really need a cnc
Remember as an apprentice having to work out piston speed... at 8k rpm the piston was hitting 0-90-0 mph in 3 inches! Stressful stuff.
Wow. That's amazing actually.
Con rods usually break between the exhaust and intake stroke, only then they experience tension.
Between compression and expansion stroke the movement is the same, but then the explosion pushes the piston down.
@@sthenzel Yes, on one of our race engines we noticed the only time it would eat it was shutting off the throttle at high rpm. The lack of "cushion" from the next next air/fuel charge was enough to push the rod too far.
Full load, just fine 😊
@@TheGingerJonny The sudden high intake vacuum was too much
Don´t know if it was a naturally aspirated engine, in a supercharged or turboed system it maybe easier to avoid, but only in a pull-through setup.
Thank you guys! For spending so much time entertaining us..
try making an electric car, with starter motors
They would work in a Honda with 900hp but 20 lb/ft tq.
You should try plywood, because it's stronger in applications where the force is in many directions.
Use hickory, cut pieces undersized and cover with carbon fiber cloth, coat with epoxy and grind /sand down to proper size. ;-)
Wood is strong but a little too brittle for the sudden motions of the pistons. High density plastic is less brittle and less apt to shatter. Thanks!
I think wooden hockey stick handles would work, the laminations would make them stronger than wood alone and the end cap could be cut with the laminations horizontally for more strength.
when you have done all the testing with wood. Use those builded wooden parts to build a totally wooden engine for like an "youtube art" or some shit. Memories combined :D
I've been watching a few videos of people make bulletproof panels out of HDPE plastic bottles you should try making a pair of crank arms out of that HDPE plastic I still think you're like the uncle every kid would love to have that's off to you 👍✌️
Glue the pieces together and use smaller screws and big washers.
Should try again and coat the wood in epoxy resin and left to set. See if they turn out better same with crankshaft.
Theoretisch müsste das schon gehen, der Pleuel Anschluss an der Kurbelwelle muss nur materialgerecht ausgeführt werden. Holz hat 30 % der Festigkeit von Eisen aber wiegt nur knapp 10%. Das ganze wird doch in der Hauptlast auf Stoss belastet,. Die Pleuel Form müsste nur angepasst werden. Ich sage Mal ein Multiplexkern und beidseitig mit Esche aufgedoppelt ( pu- Klebstoff als Verbindung). Einen Versuch ist es wert! Wichtig ist, durchgehenden Faserverlauf zu realisieren!
How about trying high density plastic conrods? I can't remember the name of sheets of white high density plastic that you can get easily.
3D printed connecting rods
That's actually the new frontier of engine parts manufacturing. The new Porsche GT2 RS has 3D printed pistons made by Mahle. They are actually better than conventional pistons.
www.motorauthority.com/news/1128908_porsche-improves-efficiency-power-with-3d-printed-pistons
You guys are crazy entertaining. I have to give you props for trying some of the nuttiest ideas ever. Keep up the good work. I think we call those piston rods. I think you guys are lucky not to get hurt with this one.
What will the lads in the Garage 54 labs come up with next?! Wooden valve covers and oil pan?
Wood this be a good idea? I'm glad I could log in to see this video.
Omg lol. Too much.
Wooden engine block next? Possibly the only thing that would work for a while as it can be a mightily big piece of wood!
These guys should try fabricating a rotor for a rotary engine with wood, although it would be a massive pain to have to take the entire engine apart to swap the rotor.
Do the whole internals out of wood, get a cnc to make all the parts so they don't break as easy and is all balanced and made to the right size, now that i want to see.
Last time I was this early there were the sounds of gearbox destruction
try it with a hard wood something like oak and make sure you grease them up good
How about using plywood canrods? Plywood has better durability to normal wood and wood on its self is pretty good to store some oil in it, so lubrication should not be issue, except maybe creating seal.
Composite parts could theoretically work - if they were resistant to dissolving in oil. Fiberglass construction?
Be interested to see if it worked if you treated the wood, lots of options oil+concrete mix works great or just oil soaked. TBH a wood CNC would be amazing hehe
You could use some still bushings in this and it might hold up it seemed promising
значительно упрощено. Вы должны добавить вкладыши подшипника коленчатого вала, а также подшипники поршневого пальца, чтобы сделать его сопоставимым. Также подойдет другой тип дерева. однако, как упрощение и забавная попытка, которая определенно является основным и отличным контентом этого канала, это здорово.
This man putting his hand in the flame like it's water 😂
glass or keramic conrods?? just an idea from me, or a glaas or keramic pistonhead?
Try using a harder wood like oak or walnut. In fact any nut tree wood would probably work better
Love the show boys, keep up the good work, on showing what might work. Good job from WV USA
If it had an insert made of tensioned steel cable, it would have lasted longer, because it would have completely taken the pulling force and would have left the wood only to push!
Oil saturated heavy woods usef in bearing blocks even in modern machinery might work as pistons for a while. Getting the tolerances right would be a challenge
Id like to see fiberglass con rods. Or the wooden ones with a few layers of fiberglass over them.
try some good plywood, that might work as it has fibers running both ways or sandwich some thin boards together yourself so that you have grains running both ways.
Try a harder wood like mahogany and make sure the grain on the end caps is running horizontaly
You should have tried the bamboo. It would stand it as kranckshaft too.
Who caught the ending there haha.
nice little sneek in the video editing department haha.
was wondering why such a long pause at the end haha.
like if u stayed and herd it to haha.
this made my day.
This guy has to be like a Vo-Tech teacher if not he should be. All I know is they definitely have a lot of fun putting this stuff together.
Con rods are like baseball; you have to have good wood! But in this case, the big end should be as big as the block allows for strength and still have clearance. Also, use washers under the bolts and nuts.
Could of use the original metal big end caps on wood con rods to make it run longer. As these parts failed first, think it may last a little longer.
Nice! Could you try Plastic 3D printed conrods next?
Build an entire wooden engine, wood rings and everything except valve springs and seals of course. And use ironwood
next you should combine all three and see what happens the pistans crankshaft and conrods
Don't you wooden heads know that only plyvood can handle that kinda punishment because of its cross-ply construct!
"HEY THERE FELLAS."
it would be cool to try a full wood motor
Try carbon fiber
Easiest way : buy cf boards and cnc cut them then epoxy glue the profiles until you get the right thickness, then cnc carve if necessary
Wooden connecting rods with the metal endcaps on them and put the upper and lower rod bearings on them.
You have low compression because there is no oil between cylinder and piston , for your test is enought to take a small amout of oil into combustion chamber and it will works
Try using ebony wood, that's mighty tough stuff and might stand up to the stress of the motor.
30 seconds in, my prediction is if they just saw them out of that big piece of wood, they'll break on a plane parallel to the cap bolts, just inboard of the cap bolts. That's where it has the least area, and the force could be called "shear parallel to the grain", in which wood is weak. Second most likely failure is along the grain, between the wrist pin and the small end. Let's find out!
HEY, how about your team make a complete wooden working replica of a Lada engine that is twice the size of a Lada engine and using solid hardwood?
Here's the idea in more detail. Your team has had some experience now making wooden engine parts. The problem is the reduced strength of the wood at those sizes. So, make the engine 2x scale (twice as big) and use solid hardwood. This would mean every part would be twice as thick and you might just get a working wooden engine. How long it will last though, that is to be seen. Some woods are better than others at withstanding the punishment it would have to endure in an engine. If anyone reading this wants to see them do this, thumbs this up. Maybe they or someone they know will see it and get the idea in their head.