I’m a HUGE proponent of this pad washer!! These days, I have two machines with different pads on it for paint correction. Wash the pad after every section, and only change machines when you need to. No more changing pads constantly from heat & residue!! Game changer for efficiency. You know how much I’ve saved from not buying new pads every correction? How much money I’ve saved turning older, softer polishing foam pads into waxing pads? Game changer!!! Speed & money back in your pocket with one of these.
@@Dzastfakenrajd lol I’m always scared to use old, clogged & dirty pads when trying to get something relatively scratch free. I’m mobile, but don’t have a van and don’t carry an air compressor yet for air-cleaning. Plus; if I sold a polishing I would tell the customer I need to buy 3 pads to do it; they always paid the $40 for me ;)
@@Ichabod_Jericho I'd go bancrupt. I'm using LC pads and just swap them out every one or two panels. Afterwards just clean them with APC and water. They still look like new after 20-30 paint corrections. I'm shop and mobile as well 😜
Very informative and useful video. I run a detailing business and have used air compressor for the last 5 years with all the dust and splash that comes with it. I recently switched to LC System 4000 pad washer and have enjoyed it so much that i actually sold my air compressor the other day. My findings is that the LC4000 works just great if you use it after every panel or 2 panels / clean cycle at most. I also found that cleaning out compound and polishes works better than cleaning a pad that have been used with vaxes and other protecting solutions. So now i use 1 pad for each type of product that i use. I will def try use my rotary for cleaning all pads rather than using the Rupes 21, because like you said it feels way to aggressive on the pad in the bucket, allthough it has worked very well i start to see the velcro starting to peel in the edges (which usually happends when using them on the car/boat anyway)
What a great informative video Sandro, I always learn so much from you, keep up your hard work mate, you deserve everything for your hard quality work.
Best review of this pad cleaner i have seen i would love to buy this pad cleaner but just cant justify the cost Even though it will prolong the life of the pads which is always a good thing In SANDRO we trust
I have 2 of these units and used them alot on the last correction of a 86 buick regal-T with single stage paintthat has aluminum flake in the paint, I had to spray the pad with a apc them use 1 washer to wash out apc then 2nd bucket to rinse. Definitely be vary careful with foam pads but no issues with microfiber pads. I keep a towel handy to wipe off polisher if I get the pad to saturated.
Thanks Sandro. Pad cleaning was one of the most frustrating parts of our summer detail. We never know when to clean the pad and how to do it. We were using dish detergent and hot water for the most part. That seemed ok for the Menzerna polishes, but for the sonax polishes it seemed the only effective method was to physically squeeze the old polish out by hand.The detergent didn't break the sonax polishes down at all. Such a pain.
Hope things are well for you sir. Fantastic video showcasing this pad washer, it's something I have my eye on forsure. Washing pads at the end of a long detail is always the most dreadful thing to do!!! At least this eases the pain a little. BTW, you guys have a real amazing UFC champion in Alexander Volkanovski he is one heck of a fighter.
Hey Sandro. I tried my new HDO pads tday and you were right about them being on the more difficult side to clean., but top notch! I am considering this pad cleaning system. I don't have a rotary but I do have one of those 120mm backing plates that you can chuck up in the drill. It would have the same effect,I suppose, as having a rotary. Thank you for the awesome review!
Great to hear mate, and yes a drill uses essentially the same motion as a rotary so it should work just as well - it may be a touch more awkward at first but I’m sure you’ll get use to it.
Thanks for the Insight Sandro! Always helpful to get a real world review by a real detailer and a non-biased review. As an owner of a small PXE80 with Pads up to 75mm in Size and a Large 21mm DA, I'm not liking the idea of changing the pads to my rotary. The primary advantage in my mind of this system would be to save time and have cleaner, more effective pads. I currently blow out my pads with an air gun between each pass, and switch to clean pads when they start to "dust" a little. What do you think would be more effective, this system 4000 or air?
I don’t think there’s an absolute right or wrong to it either way. I tend to work with a lot of pads and like yourself blow then out constantly and switch to clean ones, and if I’m cycling through a lot of them I’ll setup the pad washer and clean them up for the next polishing cycle. But I do know a lot of guys like to use the washer during the correction stage to clean as they go. I think if you get the set up and technique right you can really go at it either way - it’s really just more of a preference thing!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing so its main use will be to help washing the pads after having finished with one or two cars.. I usually spin-dry em on a rotary anyway, that they dry faster and it helps the foam backing to get into its old shape. Thanks a lot for you opinion, it means a lot for me ❤️
Although it’s ideal to minimise staining that bonds to pads, they will inevitably get stained to some extent, so that’s all normal and the main thing is to remove to compound and paint residue as best as possible.
Great timing , I bought one of these . What’s you opinion on waging the pad between passes. I have enough of every pad I use to complete a correction I’ll end using six to eight pads and I tend to clean the after I’m finished or a couple days later. I seen videos suggesting cleaning the pad between passes cutting down on the pads needed . I haven’t tried this method yet I’m old school and blow out my pads with compressed air between pass.
I think if you clean between passes you should test and base your results on using a slightly damp pad because the water in the pad will to some degree effect the compounds performance and it’s impossible to entirely dry the pad. But as long as you equate for that I’m sure it can work fine.
I'm no expert but personally I would soak them in water (warm preferably) with a cleaning solution, leave over night if you want , when you wash use hot water (not boiling ) and adjust strength of cleaner depending on how bad it is , can also soak and then stick in machine after removing most products from soaking and rinsing out before putting in machine
Hi Sandro love the videos. I have a question, can you use the same pad once you have washed it instantly on another panel . Will this effect cut ? The pad would be slightly damp. Or are you using brush changing every two panels with new pad and washing old ones to use another day. I hope that makes sense what I’m saying. Good evening from uk
Some guys do wash and spin the pads and keep going, so yes you can, but it may mean just slightly altering your technique to compensate for that added moisture. I do personally like to work with a lot of pads (it is a bigger initial investment but I find cheaper in the long run as my pads do tend to last a long time) and keep switching them out throughout the day and wash them all at the end. There’s no right or wrong, just what works best for you!
Seems like a bit of a stuff around in my opinion. For cleaning pads I just got some lengths of velcro and put them on my wall in my workshop. Stick them on and pressure wash them clean, easy as. Nonetheless great video as always. 👌
Nice vid, but you didn’t really say if and when you use this in your process. I think in your vids I’ve seen you blowing the pads clean with air, sometimes with a tornador. Is that still the way to go for you, do you swap your pads out regularly for clean ones and / or do you use a padwasher in between sets or only at the end of a detail? I have the same pad washer, I still find the pads a little too wet to my liking when using it between sets and then immediately using it on the next panel. But with air only they do not get as clean imo.
When I got the new system 4000 in a couple of months ago I took it upon myself to try and work out the best way to use it in relation to method and technique, so that was really my focus with this video - to try and help out those that have it or will be getting it, and I actually learnt a lot in the process! I do personally tend to use compressed air to blow out pads frequently during paint correction and also work with a lot of pads and swap to fresh ones as needed, and still do a lot of pad hand washing. I’m not sure there’s necessarily a right of wrong way to go, it’s more of a preference and situational thing and I’m also not sure which way I’ll go moving forward, but it was great exploring it!
Lots of places, here’s a link to one: www.waxit.com.au/products/shinemate-3-2-rotary-m14-extender-bar?variant=31968435011673¤cy=AUD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5v_9v9rH9wIV45NmAh2VaQNREAQYASABEgLnr_D_BwE
Everyone works a little differently, but I’d say one pad is still pushing it for me even with the pad washer, I’d be using more like 3 pads and rotating them, but that doesn’t meant one pad can’t work for you, it all depends on a lot of factors.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing If this pad washer does a good job of cleaning, what factors would cause you to want to switch out to a fresh pad if your pad/product combo are working?
Maybe have a look at the video below as I cover a lot of questions about pad use there. But in my experience there’s a lot of advantages in using multiple pads based around it being cheaper and more efficient in the long run as well as not having to constantly stop and clean a single pad. Again it’s not the law or anything, just my own experience and preference of working. ua-cam.com/video/CbD_RwPhcg8/v-deo.html
This thing should not cost $200! It’s just a pair of plastic buckets with a ridged plastic drum, a siphon straw, and a simple spring displacement pump. I can buy a lot of pads with $200 and just clean them manually in between panels.
I’m a HUGE proponent of this pad washer!! These days, I have two machines with different pads on it for paint correction. Wash the pad after every section, and only change machines when you need to. No more changing pads constantly from heat & residue!! Game changer for efficiency. You know how much I’ve saved from not buying new pads every correction? How much money I’ve saved turning older, softer polishing foam pads into waxing pads? Game changer!!! Speed & money back in your pocket with one of these.
Buying new pads every paint correction?! Damn man, what pads were you using? Paper ones? 😳
@@Dzastfakenrajd lol I’m always scared to use old, clogged & dirty pads when trying to get something relatively scratch free. I’m mobile, but don’t have a van and don’t carry an air compressor yet for air-cleaning. Plus; if I sold a polishing I would tell the customer I need to buy 3 pads to do it; they always paid the $40 for me ;)
@@Ichabod_Jericho I'd go bancrupt. I'm using LC pads and just swap them out every one or two panels. Afterwards just clean them with APC and water. They still look like new after 20-30 paint corrections. I'm shop and mobile as well 😜
Great to hear it’s serving a vital need in your process. I think without compressed air it makes even more sense to help manage residue buildup!
Very informative and useful video. I run a detailing business and have used air compressor for the last 5 years with all the dust and splash that comes with it. I recently switched to LC System 4000 pad washer and have enjoyed it so much that i actually sold my air compressor the other day.
My findings is that the LC4000 works just great if you use it after every panel or 2 panels / clean cycle at most. I also found that cleaning out compound and polishes works better than cleaning a pad that have been used with vaxes and other protecting solutions.
So now i use 1 pad for each type of product that i use.
I will def try use my rotary for cleaning all pads rather than using the Rupes 21, because like you said it feels way to aggressive on the pad in the bucket, allthough it has worked very well i start to see the velcro starting to peel in the edges (which usually happends when using them on the car/boat anyway)
Excellent video!! As I just got my system 4000. Thank u sir!! 👍🏻 🇨🇦
You are the man! Although I'd stick to my handwashing method, when you have a lot of pads to wash this unit comes handy. Greetings Sandro
Thank you for the Great review. You make some valid points that I will keep in mind once I get the unit which I’m ordering today.
What a great informative video Sandro, I always learn so much from you, keep up your hard work mate, you deserve everything for your hard quality work.
Really glad you enjoyed the video, thanks!
Carpro lift works amazing at washing pads with this washer.
Best review of this pad cleaner i have seen i would love to buy this pad cleaner but just cant justify the cost Even though it will prolong the life of the pads which is always a good thing In SANDRO we trust
Thanks Bob, always appreciate it mate!
Great video bro! Your voice is so relaxing
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have 2 of these units and used them alot on the last correction of a 86 buick regal-T with single stage paintthat has aluminum flake in the paint, I had to spray the pad with a apc them use 1 washer to wash out apc then 2nd bucket to rinse. Definitely be vary careful with foam pads but no issues with microfiber pads. I keep a towel handy to wipe off polisher if I get the pad to saturated.
Great to hear and thanks for sharing your personal use and experience with the units!
Thanks i just both this pad washer and needed good explanation from a person who have work with it. Thabks a lot 🙌
Thanks Sandro. Pad cleaning was one of the most frustrating parts of our summer detail. We never know when to clean the pad and how to do it. We were using dish detergent and hot water for the most part. That seemed ok for the Menzerna polishes, but for the sonax polishes it seemed the only effective method was to physically squeeze the old polish out by hand.The detergent didn't break the sonax polishes down at all. Such a pain.
Yes, some compounds and some pads are definitely more difficult to clean than others and yes sometimes a real pain!
Hope things are well for you sir. Fantastic video showcasing this pad washer, it's something I have my eye on forsure. Washing pads at the end of a long detail is always the most dreadful thing to do!!! At least this eases the pain a little. BTW, you guys have a real amazing UFC champion in Alexander Volkanovski he is one heck of a fighter.
I have been wondering if one of these are worth it. Great insights on using with a rotary. As always, amazing video and analysis Sandro!
Hey Sandro. I tried my new HDO pads tday and you were right about them being on the more difficult side to clean., but top notch! I am considering this pad cleaning system. I don't have a rotary but I do have one of those 120mm backing plates that you can chuck up in the drill. It would have the same effect,I suppose, as having a rotary. Thank you for the awesome review!
Great to hear mate, and yes a drill uses essentially the same motion as a rotary so it should work just as well - it may be a touch more awkward at first but I’m sure you’ll get use to it.
Thanks for the Insight Sandro! Always helpful to get a real world review by a real detailer and a non-biased review. As an owner of a small PXE80 with Pads up to 75mm in Size and a Large 21mm DA, I'm not liking the idea of changing the pads to my rotary. The primary advantage in my mind of this system would be to save time and have cleaner, more effective pads. I currently blow out my pads with an air gun between each pass, and switch to clean pads when they start to "dust" a little. What do you think would be more effective, this system 4000 or air?
I don’t think there’s an absolute right or wrong to it either way. I tend to work with a lot of pads and like yourself blow then out constantly and switch to clean ones, and if I’m cycling through a lot of them I’ll setup the pad washer and clean them up for the next polishing cycle. But I do know a lot of guys like to use the washer during the correction stage to clean as they go. I think if you get the set up and technique right you can really go at it either way - it’s really just more of a preference thing!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing so its main use will be to help washing the pads after having finished with one or two cars.. I usually spin-dry em on a rotary anyway, that they dry faster and it helps the foam backing to get into its old shape. Thanks a lot for you opinion, it means a lot for me ❤️
What happens to the residual chemical water that dries off in the pad after cleaning? Isn't it best to always rinse the pad in plain water?
A final rinse in plain water is perhaps ideal, but I’d only go there if I felt any residue was negatively influencing my results.
The black residue 3:51 does it mean it’s clean since it won’t come off ??
Although it’s ideal to minimise staining that bonds to pads, they will inevitably get stained to some extent, so that’s all normal and the main thing is to remove to compound and paint residue as best as possible.
Hi Sandro great content as usual. By chance could I get a link on the multi size pad conversion play please.
www.waxit.com.au/collections/scholl-concepts/products/scholl-concepts-3-1-rotary-backing-plate
Looks like it’s sold out here 😮
Thanks so much for the reply I will keep checking. All the best
What if you lose the rubber O-rings? Where do I find new ones?
Oh, and forgot to mention Liked & Subscribed!
Great timing , I bought one of these . What’s you opinion on waging the pad between passes. I have enough of every pad I use to complete a correction I’ll end using six to eight pads and I tend to clean the after I’m finished or a couple days later. I seen videos suggesting cleaning the pad between passes cutting down on the pads needed . I haven’t tried this method yet I’m old school and blow out my pads with compressed air between pass.
I think if you clean between passes you should test and base your results on using a slightly damp pad because the water in the pad will to some degree effect the compounds performance and it’s impossible to entirely dry the pad. But as long as you equate for that I’m sure it can work fine.
I'm no expert but personally I would soak them in water (warm preferably) with a cleaning solution, leave over night if you want , when you wash use hot water (not boiling ) and adjust strength of cleaner depending on how bad it is , can also soak and then stick in machine after removing most products from soaking and rinsing out before putting in machine
Would’ve liked if you included what the instructions from the manufacturer are before giving your opinion. Having trouble finding them myself.
Thanks
Hi Sandro love the videos. I have a question, can you use the same pad once you have washed it instantly on another panel . Will this effect cut ? The pad would be slightly damp. Or are you using brush changing every two panels with new pad and washing old ones to use another day. I hope that makes sense what I’m saying. Good evening from uk
Some guys do wash and spin the pads and keep going, so yes you can, but it may mean just slightly altering your technique to compensate for that added moisture. I do personally like to work with a lot of pads (it is a bigger initial investment but I find cheaper in the long run as my pads do tend to last a long time) and keep switching them out throughout the day and wash them all at the end. There’s no right or wrong, just what works best for you!
Thank you for your quick reply
Nice review as always Sandro! 😃 I was just wondering if it was possible to use Nv Onyx for exterior plastics, or if it’s exclusively a tire dressing.
Thanks and yes you can also use it on exterior plastics and rubbers.
Where can I find the mulit size polishing pad conversion plate you you used with the extension? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
www.waxit.com.au/collections/scholl-concepts/products/scholl-concepts-3-1-rotary-backing-plate
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you!
Great videos!
Need one
Seems like a bit of a stuff around in my opinion. For cleaning pads I just got some lengths of velcro and put them on my wall in my workshop. Stick them on and pressure wash them clean, easy as. Nonetheless great video as always. 👌
When can I get one? Missed out on the last batch!
Unfortunately I don’t have any info on that
alberto hello mister sandro
Already sold out at waxit FFS. Why don't they carry enough stock for the perceived amount of people who would desire them ???
Nice vid, but you didn’t really say if and when you use this in your process. I think in your vids I’ve seen you blowing the pads clean with air, sometimes with a tornador. Is that still the way to go for you, do you swap your pads out regularly for clean ones and / or do you use a padwasher in between sets or only at the end of a detail? I have the same pad washer, I still find the pads a little too wet to my liking when using it between sets and then immediately using it on the next panel. But with air only they do not get as clean imo.
When I got the new system 4000 in a couple of months ago I took it upon myself to try and work out the best way to use it in relation to method and technique, so that was really my focus with this video - to try and help out those that have it or will be getting it, and I actually learnt a lot in the process!
I do personally tend to use compressed air to blow out pads frequently during paint correction and also work with a lot of pads and swap to fresh ones as needed, and still do a lot of pad hand washing. I’m not sure there’s necessarily a right of wrong way to go, it’s more of a preference and situational thing and I’m also not sure which way I’ll go moving forward, but it was great exploring it!
Who makes that extension bar?
Lots of places, here’s a link to one:
www.waxit.com.au/products/shinemate-3-2-rotary-m14-extender-bar?variant=31968435011673¤cy=AUD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5v_9v9rH9wIV45NmAh2VaQNREAQYASABEgLnr_D_BwE
250$ for a bucket and some time spending pad washer? Thanks but it's a nope from me
I don’t think it’s for everyone but I hope you still enjoyed the video.
❤
With the use of the device, how many pads would you recommend using for each stage of correction? Theoretically only one, right?
Everyone works a little differently, but I’d say one pad is still pushing it for me even with the pad washer, I’d be using more like 3 pads and rotating them, but that doesn’t meant one pad can’t work for you, it all depends on a lot of factors.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing If this pad washer does a good job of cleaning, what factors would cause you to want to switch out to a fresh pad if your pad/product combo are working?
Maybe have a look at the video below as I cover a lot of questions about pad use there. But in my experience there’s a lot of advantages in using multiple pads based around it being cheaper and more efficient in the long run as well as not having to constantly stop and clean a single pad. Again it’s not the law or anything, just my own experience and preference of working.
ua-cam.com/video/CbD_RwPhcg8/v-deo.html
Just bought it and it won’t pump water
This video is shot dramatically over exposed btw
1st
🥇
Quickest draw on the internet! Thank you for the support my friend!
Nothing worse than a dirty pad 😜
This thing should not cost $200! It’s just a pair of plastic buckets with a ridged plastic drum, a siphon straw, and a simple spring displacement pump. I can buy a lot of pads with $200 and just clean them manually in between panels.