✅ PART 2: I SHOW YOU HOW LOUD THE SHAKERS ARE AND HOW TO DAMPEN VIBRATION NOISE! ua-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/v-deo.html ✅ PART 3: COMPARING SIMHUB vs. LFE and MY LATEST SETTINGS! ua-cam.com/video/DHPZYrg9cIo/v-deo.html Hey everyone! I hope you found this helpful. Please note that the tuning of this setup is very much up to your own preference and what feels good for you. In addition, different ways of mounting the bass shakers will deliver different results. This also depends on which rig you have, the material, the contact surface of the bass shakers, etc. If you have a different rig, you might want to consider other ways to mount the shakers. Mounting alternatives: - Cheapest is probably using a 200x200 vesa mount, you can use it to mount your bass shakers directly to the aluminium extrusion - Google "bass shaker mounting bracket": there are several solutions, including 3d printed parts from sellers on Etsy - If you have a bucket seat, you can drill the bass shaker directly into the hard fiberglass shell - Some mount their bass shaker to a wooden mount, which they then secure to the bottom or back of their seat - Some setups use zip ties for mounting Ideally, you want the entire flat surface of the bass shaker to be in contact with the rig. Good luck!
ziptie mounting "works" but you loss 3/4 the straight compared to a solded mount. my rear one is ziptied for now and i can barly tell its thare compared to the front one even thought i have the frount one turn down to %50.
I made a similar system with a pair of 200W bass shakers, mounted under my seat, left and right, powered by a 100W MOSFet car audio amplifier. The amp is 12V powered, but that's no great problem with a separate PSU off eBay. It works really well!
By the way, there is a huge benefit for haptic feedback when you isolate the platform that your shaker is mounted to from the rest of the rig. On a German forum, people are talking about isolating their seat and pedal-plate from the rest of the rig and having a huge improvement from the vibrations felt. For instance, if you mount your shaker directly to the seat, then putting even just a rubber washer between the mounting of your seat to your rig and the seat will help a ton, because now the shaker will not have to shake the entire rig anymore and the energy is more localized to the seat.
I actually find more imersive to have the entire rig shaking although mine is pretty lightweight, I can imagine havier rigs would benefit a lot from this
Just wanted to add to this. After messing around I setup the seat with a lower frequency hz (40hz) and set it up for road effects only. I set the front speaker to a higher frequency (75hz) and used wheel slip effect only to that speaker. So road effects only goes to seat and wheel slip only to front speaker. This really made it feel real. I can now feel the wheels slipping on the car. Volumes were front speaker (100%) back seat speaker to 60%. The hz make a way bigger difference in feel than volume does. The higher Hz to the front speaker makes your pedals vibrate faster than the seat which is a low slow vibration. Mess around find your sweet spot. Good luck all.
pro tip- never connect electronic parts like this mini 2 channel amp to the chair itself because it will be vibrating and thats not good for non military grade products, with time it can fail, some electronic parts in the electronic board can come off , it can not happen but it can happen for sure, for potentiometers like the big volume knob the vibration with time can even damage it, anyways i think you did a great job and all this message is from someone who understands a bit in this area, cheers man and happy new year, sorry my english Portuguese-lisbon here this is a great alternative to the but kicker right? as a DCS player i think the but kicker price is just a ripoff and disgraceful 340 euros is just insane
I install this on my setup and also under it I place the power supply, I use rubber in between the metal plate and power supply , should I still be concern
I'm new to this, and have watched LOTS of videos on "sim stuff" in the last month. This is one of the few that I watched from start to finish; no skipping...! A brilliant, informative video. Excellently paced, ALL the info you need, no wasted time or divergence, one of the best videos I've seen. Top effort. Well done and thank you. A new subscriber...🤩
less is more but you can get alot more with fine tuning. Tip: use high priority for for road vibration, road impacts, simulated road texture based on speed and wheel slip. 20 hz for impacts 30 for vibration and 40 to 55 with road texture by speed with high frequency effect anywhere around 65 for wheel slip. Don't put high priority on rpm and that will allow you to turn up rpms higher to get a good solid engine feel while you are at still and reving before start. When u hit the gas wheel slip takes over and when you get grip the road feeling takes over. You don't have to worry about rpms overwhelming other effects with this. Set volumes depending on mounting
My friend, thank you so much for this video, it's literally the best information I've ever found on the Internet! Any sim racer reading this it's the best money you'll EVER spend on your rig, words can't describe how alive it feels👌🏽❤️
I recommend using the Fosi Audio BT30D-S amp over this one which is budget also. It is a little more dedicated to making a bass shaker setup, having normal left/right but also has a 3rd (Sub output). Sub for the seat, left and right for brake and throttle. a few more dials for manual settings as you drive. that helps when messing with diff tracks. Sebring is no Spa in comfort.
After watching this, I got a similar setup for my sim rig for GT7, used bit and pieces that I had stashed. I already had a two channel amp, etc, Simhub talks to the PS5 for telemetry.
@@juiceman8873 I currently have one on the bottom of the seat bracket, I cant tell which side it is from, I have another one waiting to go under pedal plate. But I can have as many as Simhub will support.
@@ELheretik1351 you need to get the iIP number of the ps5 from the ps5 settings, and tell simhub settings to read that. sometimes the ps5's ip number will change. I am sure there's loads of guides on the youtubes already for this.
Truly well done. Perhaps the most instructive vid I’ve ever watched. Your attention to detail (eg the Post It notes), is impressive and incredibly helpful. Thanks, all is exactly what I was looking for and I look forward to seeing more vids from you!
I actually have all of these components already I just never added them to my rig. Seeing your video and the step by step setup has inspired me though and I'll be working on it this weekend. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent info young man, thank you. I bought myself the same mini amp in Red to match my red sim rig seat and two 20W transducers for under my seat only! One underneath and one on the seat back. I already have rumble motors on my V3 Fanatec pedals. Very cost effective solution. Cheers. 👍
Hit there, I am new to iRacing and after seeing your video on Ultimate Practice Guide I decided to subscribe. I also will be replicating your shakers build, I hope I'll be able to follow this video and make it work. I already use SimHUB for my multiple screens and Dash displays. Great content.
Thank you, so much for taking the time to put together such a detailed video on this subject and making it so much easier for this community. I cannot wait to receive my stuff so I can hook this up. Sincerely, Richard
this is the best explanation i have found on this topic on youtube. very understandable and clearly explained. really great work. thank you for the effort you have made
Bro this tutorial was amazing. I bought an aura speaker and nobsound amp and mounted under my seat and your tutorial and setting up sim hub was seamless. Now I'm getting 4 tubular frame mounts from Etsy and 2 more amps so I can have 4 wheel feedback.
Ah yes the most famous amp + shakers combo. Personally I use a little bigger red Nobsound amp, it is barely more expensive but much stronger, does not overheat this much and lasts longer as my mini fried pretty quick. Also I also used spare vesa plate to mount one of them, happens to allign well. I use one for pedals and one under the seat.
A little addentum, that red Nobsound amp is not all-in-one solution like the mini, I had to connect it to my DAC. Still the output is at least 2 times stronger and there is less hassle involved, I had some grief trying to connect the mini, sometimes it would just not work, it would occasionally lose signal and indeed overheat a lot while this red one is more solid. Granted I didn't use it in months as I broke one of the cables while adjusting my rig and didn't get around to ordering a replacement yet, so can only comment on use over a few months and not a full year. The amp is indeed something worth more consideration, ideally you would want one amp per one shaker to get clear separated signal for which the mini would be a good solution, but it really struggles to drive 2 at the same time. Also do experiment with placement before you fix it in for good, depending on your rig and seat you can get too much of the vibrations absorbed by the seat, or have too much go into the floor disturbing your neighbours. Having one under pedal plate gives nice strong feedback, the one under the seat is much trickier to pull off, good luck!
Hey mate thanks a lot for the valuable feedback! So far so good for me with the mini, but I’ll definitely keep an eye out on the overheating issues you mentioned. I might also try another amp at some point and do a review later on comparing different solutions.
@@LDFR make sure to always turn it off after your session is done, by muting all the dials. I suspect mine burned because I didn't dissconnect it when not in use and it was just on in the background, I often let my pc on during the night so it might have been too much. One day it just stopped working at all! Yeah as everything gear related in sim racing the job is never trully done, playing with different amp will surely happen, but imo it would be best to just stick to this one for at least couple of months, then after that you will immediately pick up on any differences in your setup. I tend to start changing stuff too soon as I get too hyped and eager and in the end have no clue what I'm doing lol.
Yeah that might be the case! I disconnect my whole rig in between sessions as I don’t want parts to run on idle so hopefully it won’t get as hot 😂 and yeah I’m definitely gonna sit on this setup for a while!
@@LDFR Wise! My rig IS my daily pc setup, with swivel keyboard tray and triples, so I use it every day for normal pc use and gaming, and once I want car mode I switch on all sim dedicated ports on my usb hub and start True Drive. Realistically bass shaker amp and wheelbase are the only bits with their own power cables, so I didn't bother giving those two separate power outlets, but maybe eventually I should. It already requires fiddling depending if I want triples or vr as with only 3 display ports avaiable can't have both ; - / so having to flip extra switch woudn't change much.
This video is amazing, concise, and got me running with my setup. Looking forward to watching your Part 3 latest setting after ripping some laps! Thanks, dude!
Well Done Friend i am getting going on my sim rig upgrades this year and found this very useful well thought out and very in depth how to setup thank you much hopefully i can get streaming my racing rig soon enough. Keep Doing what your doing friend !
Dude thank you so much. You were so detailed in your explanation. Im planning to order these to add to my set up. I would to feel more emersion. Saving your video.
True! I do like the springs in that kit - but it is indeed overpriced. I guess you pay for the time that guy took to research everything and put it all together - which some people aren't bothered to do 😂
Thanks man, just ordered this exact setup and spent the entire day looking for someone to show how to do these wires. I'm not an audio guy so I'm lost if it's not a standard connector I'm used to from regular audio stuff.
Thanks for the tutorial. I ordered a 35W shaker for the front and a 50W for the rear. As amp I‘ve chosen the red Nobsound 2x 100W. I need to pay attention to not set the shakers to 100% in simhub like you did. At the moment I only play RaceRoom but I have a code for 3months iRacing. Maybe I give it a try. Edit: the shakers are Dayton Audio BST-2 and AuraSound AST-2B-4.
@@LDFR It's amazing, but some of the settings can be a little overwhelming. I'm trying to figure out which ones I need and which ones just cause too much interference.
I had great results using this mount instructions guide video on using the VESA mount for the rear BST-1, attached under the Sim Labs GT1-Evo (2020 version) extrusion that the seat is attached to, and the front BST-1 direct mounted to the pedal tray underside (which has built in felt type material on the entire surface to help with direct mount to metal). My rear with VESA plate under the seat vibrations are at least twice as strong as the front are under the GT1-Evo 2020 pedal tray. The custom channels mapping in Simhub is set to 100% for both front and rear, and I'm hiding his custom channels profile imported. My GT1-Evo is the newer revised 2020 version that is 500mm total width overall, up from 480mm I believe, and has a beefier pedal tray (that does appear to have different screw hole locations than the original GT1-EVO pedal plate as well it seems). This can be made to work in the custom channels section of Simhub, since there you can define the front and the rear overall channel volume, like to set the rear to be 60% overall volume slider versus 100% on the front (to compensate for that front versus rear strength difference). My amp is similar to the one mentioned in the guide, a Douk Audio (Tone model), and is the same wattage 50 x 2 channels, and the front and rear BST-1's are connected to that single DAC amp, that acts as a sound card and amp. The result is quite good! I also had tried to mount my BST-1 directly to the back of my seat but it is pretty hefty and eventually the tape I was using list its strength, and it wasn't secure which doesn't help at all. The VESA plate mount solution is great, and is very solid, but for me I noticed about 30 mins trying to attach the same exact dimensions plate to the GT1-EVO 2020 version, that it wasn't going to be able to screw in on both sides. I needed to shorten the width distance for the extrusion pieces that run under the seat for it to be able to attach the VESA plate to both sides, from how I originally had the two extrusion pieces mounted. Once the two pieces were moved closer together by about 2" on both sides of the rig (that was the narrowest that my seat rails could support to be able to mount the seat to the excursions in fact) the plate fit fine, but I should have removed the seat and trying to screw it in upside down was a chore, to get it in the t-nuts. I also hadn't realized the BST-1 could mount directly under the pedal plate in the center even, Overall very happy with his GT1-EVO bass shaker guide method! Thank you! Note: I had very good luck with "4 Pack of Anti Vibration Pads 4" x 4" x 7/8" Rubber/Cork Vibration isolation pads" that can be had on most big online stores, placed under the standard rubber feet; if you don't want to go with the method he used near the end of this video, for the two products he used. The rubber and cork pads work really well and are about $15 USD for 4.
Hey thanks for this! I've already got a buttkicker & just bought a Trakracer TR8 Pro as well as the same DA Transducer & amp. I'm hoping I can mount the DA Transducer under the seat using the VGA mount, but not 100% sure yet. This has been the best in-depth & well explained vid I've seen so far, so I appreciate what you've done :)
Thanks for the walk through. One suggestion though. I was watching via a mobile phone. Foe this kind of viewer you might want to zoom in on the app setup. I will watch again later for sure but was watching at work on my dinner. It was hard to see exactly what you was doing. :)
4:20 you don't need to drill holes in your seat. your seat is already bolted to the rails with i guess 4 or 6 bolts. if you drill the distances of these bolts into a accordingly sized plate, you can mount it between the rails and the seat. my only fear is the rail. any ratling compenent in there? Do you get any ratling noises when the plate is fixed under the alu profiles? anyway gonna try this awesome project. thumbs up
Great point Tom! I don't get rattling sounds, unless washers or bolts used in this setup come loose. I also used felt tape between the bass shaker mount and the aluminium rig for that specific purpose :)
I'll say thank you now. I just ordered the stuff with the 4 smaller pucks today, it will be here in 3 days! Has anyone tried putting one on the wheel base itself? It seems to me I get a lot of the vibration through my wheel in a real car. Not just torque in the wheel but the front suspensions vibrations out of the plane of the wheel.
Hi John, thanks! Good luck with the setup process! I’ve done a lot of research and never really saw anyone stick one under their wheelbase mount, but I’m sure that it could be a cool thing! After all, to each their own!
You know man after watching this video I was excited to pursue this concept as I've already done some DIY stuff in sim but after checking the reviews for the vibration pads I really didn't come away with a good feeling about it. Seemed like a lot of these things seem to conk out after not much time. I'm considering just buying pre-packaged gear and calling it done. Probably get an extended warranty on it too since they seem to use the same questionable reliability components.
Try to not run run shakers to max, this amp will work but a stronger amp would get you better and more reliable results. I think 2 of those shakers should be fine for that amp, I just wouldn't run it too high haha. I have the same amp but only with 2 pucks and a shaker. It's still working pretty good and doesn't get hot. Might upgrade to a stronger amp soon.
one thing to note even though the nobsound amp is 100 watts it only comes with a 60 watt psu. so you could $15 per shacker by going with the 35 watt bst 2. as you cant use the full power unless you buy a 100 watt psu wich at that point you woulld be better off just buying aamp that can take the heat of 100 watts better. i say this even though i bought 2 bst-1 and a nobsound amp knowing this.
Hey mate, thanks for this comment as this is useful information! I was aware of this, and still decided to go ahead and try it with the stock PSU. As I’m currently getting more than enough power for my liking, I’m happy with it! But indeed to use the full power the upgraded psu from their website is the answer.
Amazing video. I had ordered a Buttkicker Pro and quickly canceled the order because of your video! Quick question: At 18:02, in your simhub setup, under road vibration, I see a Front left setting and a front right, as well as rear left and rear right. However, earlier in the video, under other settings, they are marked as ALL. That part is confusing. Any additional insights?
@@LDFR Hello, i have used aura instead of the diatone and i have not them same rig as you have ( i have a sturdy wooden rig).I used your profile and had to adjust the volume for the vibrations on my rig. It is working really well, i love it. Now i have to fine tune it a little bit. Thank you so much for your guide! You did a great job and helped us a lot!!!!
Hi friend i really enjoyed listening to you explain the bass shaker settings. I really want to try your settings but I m still new at this and don't know much about UA-cam. Please how can I download your settings. What is the link to your channel. Thanks. I'm one of your subscribers.
Hey mate, you can download my channel map from the description of the video. You then have to import it in SimHub - see how to do that in the video! My settings for the effects are in the video description :)
Hey mate, I made a video on this, check it out! I show you how loud they are on 3 different power levels, and also show you how to insulate it from the floor so that you don’t get vibration noise throughout the house ua-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/v-deo.html
Great Video. Thank you for that. I wonder if a Bass Shaker with fewer watts would be better, as you mentioned that all the volumes are less than 20-15. That means the 50W Bass Shaker are way too much for the job. What do you think?
Good question - I believe that power per se isn't the only factor, but one also needs to consider the extra detail you can get from having a bass shaker with a broader frequency spectrum. Not sure that bass shakers with lower wattage offer the same level of detail?
Hey! You inspired me to do a part II as to be fair I didn’t cover noise and isolation in this guide - because when I made it I still hadn’t had the issues with noise - they came later. I’ll do that video as soon as I can. Long story short, the transducers themselves are not that noisy at all, not at the settings I run them at. However, the issue for me was vibration noise: the vibrations traveled into the floor and could be heard loudly in other rooms in my apartment. I fixed it completely by isolating the rig from the floor using rubber feet AND vibration dampening rubber pads (18mm thick) underneath each foot. Ill make part II showing this asap.
I had the buttkicker gamer 2 which worked good, other than going out when it would get too hot. A fun mostly fixed that. I tried the same setup with the same transducers and the same amp, but both transducers blew after around 6 months. I am thinking it needs a low pass filter, because I hear too many mid range and high range sounds coming through the transducers. So now I am thinking of getting a buttkicker gamer pro.
Thanks a lot for this video bud. I really don't want to drill holes into my new bucket seat either so I'm wondering if there's some sort of double side strong tape to attach it under the seat or the back, also under the pedal location too.
Hi mate! It’s not impossible, but I read some inconsistent stories about this - it worked fine for some, and it didn’t work for others. The bass shaker is relatively heavy and you’ll need very strong tape, that’s for sure!
Thank you so much for this video, dude! One thing I am stuck on though: What do I do if the "USB 2.0 Device" doesn't show up in the list of "sound output" options?
You're welcome! And that's a good question, unfortunately it's not something I've experienced myself. Are you using a powered USB hub (like connected to an electricity outlet)? If not, that might be an issue. Also, are you plugging it in a USB 2.0 port? You might have this issue if you're connecting it to a USB 3.0 port. Those are the low hanging fruit solutions, but if the problem persists there might be more that can be done to try and fix this
Great video! This convinced me to do this as my next upgrade! As you know, once you start building, it never stops.. 😅🤣 Also subbed as I really liked the style of content and hope to see you do more!
Great video! Would it be possible to buy two sets of these and fit it to the corners of the rig, to simulate the wheels? Since the amplifier only has two channels. Maybe it's possible to buy one with four channels? Thank you for the video. It was very informative.
Great tutorial , Can you explain how you are able to run a game and Simhub together at the same time so I can tune Live while in -game. I am able to use Simhub to adjust but the game Automobilista 1 (running in windowed mode) stops when I try to adjust any effects.
Hey mate thank you! I must admit, I have no method for that - I just have them both running at the same time. Sounds like that might be an issue with automobilista. Does it crash if you open other sims while sim hub is open?
Great tutorial video! Do you think if adding one more amplifier so you can have 4 transducers, will be too overwhelming. The ideia was to have one at each corner of the rig. Cheers.
Hey! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR Thanks for your reply. That makes sense actually. The vibrations together with the sound with dual or multi channel will make you distinguish where everything is coming from.
Super interesting video ! I am wondering what's the difference betweem a Buttkicker and your solution in term of feeling. Is your solution exactly the same for a better price ? Or Buttkicker offer more sensation ? Someone as feedback comparing these both solution ?
Thanks Guillaume! That’s a good question - and honestly I don’t know the exact answer to that. I think that detail comes down to frequency range, and I think that the Buttkicker’s is wider. But I’m not sure. In general, given that so many recommend these DIY solutions when talking about buttkicker, my assumption is that not a lot of performance is left behind when opting for this
i have the following problem: my amplifiers cannot be addressed with left and right in simhub, although i have connected right and left, and i don't know why. i also can't configure anything in the speaker settings. Is there anything I need to consider? if I select rear left in the test, both vibrate and vice versa
Thank you very much for the great video. how did you make the sound settings in iRacing. the nobsound is a second sound card. what is the defold and how did you set the Lfe. iRacing crashes for me when I turn on simhub and nobsound. it always seems to crash when an effect comes on or the spotter speaks. Maybe I have a conflict with the sound cards
Amazingly clear and well done video. Would it help to have bass shaker in every corner of the car? I think front/rear is enough, but what are your opinions?
Hey, thank you for the kind words! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR This is an interesting take on it. I heard that if the shakers "spin" in the same direction, they cancel each other out. These shakers don't work like that I think? There is also a system that has shakers in every corner but the rig is on springs, so you can feel low and high frequencies better. The fact that this system tricks the brain so well is a testament of it working well though, I think I would be fine with this.
@@TheStobe84 I am familiar with the sprint system that you mentioned, it looks really cool! My advice would be to go with a 2 channel set up first, and then if you are still not satisfied you can try 4!
hello my good man, is it possible I can Install one shaker first and then when I have a chance buy the other one? or do I have to buy both a the same time ?
Thank you, waiting for the other one today, amazing tutorial, did mine exactly just like yours and its amazing @LDFR I honestly don't think I'll ever play in a cockpit again if I dont feel the vibrations
Hi, big fan of your videos....do you think with the same setup you have I can get away with the 35watt counterpart that cost almost have???or it won't be powerful enough??
Hi Joel, thank you! Regarding the 35watt shakers, power won't be an issue, but the BST-1's do have a better frequency range and I think the effects will feel nicer. That's what I've read!
How does the vibration compare when it's mounted on a bracket under the seat as opposed to directly under the seat? I'm worried I wouldn't feel it enough or at least as much as I would like to feel.
@@LDFR Nice. I'll have to try that. I just finished mounting mine directly under my seat and it feels a little to localized. Maybe I'll give the bracket a shot
Hey Brendan thanks a lot mate! I just double checked and you’re right - I made a mistake in the video. I’ll amend the description - thanks for flagging this!
![🔉Mini BASS SHAKER🔉 DIY Pedal MOD [GUIDE] using cheap Sound Exciters! Give this go, it's AWESOME!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ANdLjTH-e8k/mqdefault.jpg)
✅ PART 2: I SHOW YOU HOW LOUD THE SHAKERS ARE AND HOW TO DAMPEN VIBRATION NOISE! ua-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/v-deo.html
✅ PART 3: COMPARING SIMHUB vs. LFE and MY LATEST SETTINGS! ua-cam.com/video/DHPZYrg9cIo/v-deo.html
Hey everyone! I hope you found this helpful. Please note that the tuning of this setup is very much up to your own preference and what feels good for you. In addition, different ways of mounting the bass shakers will deliver different results. This also depends on which rig you have, the material, the contact surface of the bass shakers, etc. If you have a different rig, you might want to consider other ways to mount the shakers.
Mounting alternatives:
- Cheapest is probably using a 200x200 vesa mount, you can use it to mount your bass shakers directly to the aluminium extrusion
- Google "bass shaker mounting bracket": there are several solutions, including 3d printed parts from sellers on Etsy
- If you have a bucket seat, you can drill the bass shaker directly into the hard fiberglass shell
- Some mount their bass shaker to a wooden mount, which they then secure to the bottom or back of their seat
- Some setups use zip ties for mounting
Ideally, you want the entire flat surface of the bass shaker to be in contact with the rig.
Good luck!
ziptie mounting "works" but you loss 3/4 the straight compared to a solded mount. my rear one is ziptied for now and i can barly tell its thare compared to the front one even thought i have the frount one turn down to %50.
I made a similar system with a pair of 200W bass shakers, mounted under my seat, left and right, powered by a 100W MOSFet car audio amplifier. The amp is 12V powered, but that's no great problem with a separate PSU off eBay. It works really well!
Does it fit on the Vesa to put two bst1 bass shakers? And a Dayton 300ex? Thanks!
How did you install it with M4 bolts? Did you have to cut the threads? I can't get M4 bolts to fit in my BST-1s holes.
By the way, there is a huge benefit for haptic feedback when you isolate the platform that your shaker is mounted to from the rest of the rig. On a German forum, people are talking about isolating their seat and pedal-plate from the rest of the rig and having a huge improvement from the vibrations felt. For instance, if you mount your shaker directly to the seat, then putting even just a rubber washer between the mounting of your seat to your rig and the seat will help a ton, because now the shaker will not have to shake the entire rig anymore and the energy is more localized to the seat.
Understood, will keep that in mind and thank you so much for the tip!
Those are some dedicated sim racers if they’re willing to take their seat back off for a gamble. I dread touching a seat slider.
Incredibly well explained. Ordering parts now. Thank you!!!
underrated advice for this type of equipment
I actually find more imersive to have the entire rig shaking although mine is pretty lightweight, I can imagine havier rigs would benefit a lot from this
Just wanted to add to this. After messing around I setup the seat with a lower frequency hz (40hz) and set it up for road effects only. I set the front speaker to a higher frequency (75hz) and used wheel slip effect only to that speaker. So road effects only goes to seat and wheel slip only to front speaker. This really made it feel real. I can now feel the wheels slipping on the car. Volumes were front speaker (100%) back seat speaker to 60%. The hz make a way bigger difference in feel than volume does. The higher Hz to the front speaker makes your pedals vibrate faster than the seat which is a low slow vibration. Mess around find your sweet spot. Good luck all.
@@AcousticManJ this is brilliant information!
pro tip- never connect electronic parts like this mini 2 channel amp to the chair itself because it will be vibrating and thats not good for non military grade products, with time it can fail, some electronic parts in the electronic board can come off , it can not happen but it can happen for sure, for potentiometers like the big volume knob the vibration with time can even damage it, anyways i think you did a great job and all this message is from someone who understands a bit in this area, cheers man and happy new year, sorry my english Portuguese-lisbon here
this is a great alternative to the but kicker right? as a DCS player i think the but kicker price is just a ripoff and disgraceful 340 euros is just insane
I install this on my setup and also under it I place the power supply, I use rubber in between the metal plate and power supply , should I still be concern
I'm new to this, and have watched LOTS of videos on "sim stuff" in the last month. This is one of the few that I watched from start to finish; no skipping...! A brilliant, informative video. Excellently paced, ALL the info you need, no wasted time or divergence, one of the best videos I've seen. Top effort. Well done and thank you. A new subscriber...🤩
Thank you so much for the kind words!!
less is more but you can get alot more with fine tuning. Tip: use high priority for for road vibration, road impacts, simulated road texture based on speed and wheel slip. 20 hz for impacts 30 for vibration and 40 to 55 with road texture by speed with high frequency effect anywhere around 65 for wheel slip. Don't put high priority on rpm and that will allow you to turn up rpms higher to get a good solid engine feel while you are at still and reving before start. When u hit the gas wheel slip takes over and when you get grip the road feeling takes over. You don't have to worry about rpms overwhelming other effects with this. Set volumes depending on mounting
My friend, thank you so much for this video, it's literally the best information I've ever found on the Internet! Any sim racer reading this it's the best money you'll EVER spend on your rig, words can't describe how alive it feels👌🏽❤️
Hi Paul, you are welcome, and thank you so much for the kind words!
I recommend using the Fosi Audio BT30D-S amp over this one which is budget also. It is a little more dedicated to making a bass shaker setup, having normal left/right but also has a 3rd (Sub output). Sub for the seat, left and right for brake and throttle. a few more dials for manual settings as you drive. that helps when messing with diff tracks. Sebring is no Spa in comfort.
After watching this, I got a similar setup for my sim rig for GT7, used bit and pieces that I had stashed. I already had a two channel amp, etc, Simhub talks to the PS5 for telemetry.
Sounds great, enjoy your new setup mate :)
How many shakers do you have for ps5 gt7 setup ?
@@juiceman8873 I currently have one on the bottom of the seat bracket, I cant tell which side it is from, I have another one waiting to go under pedal plate. But I can have as many as Simhub will support.
Hi, how do you link it to the ps5 and configure it for gt7? Do you think it can be done for ps4?
@@ELheretik1351 you need to get the iIP number of the ps5 from the ps5 settings, and tell simhub settings to read that. sometimes the ps5's ip number will change. I am sure there's loads of guides on the youtubes already for this.
Truly well done. Perhaps the most instructive vid I’ve ever watched. Your attention to detail (eg the Post It notes), is impressive and incredibly helpful. Thanks, all is exactly what I was looking for and I look forward to seeing more vids from you!
That's incredibly kind of you mate, thank you very much! I appreciate it :)
Thanks
This is huge for me, thank you so much!
The best video I've seen on this subject. Very well done
Thank you so much for the kind words mate!
I actually have all of these components already I just never added them to my rig. Seeing your video and the step by step setup has inspired me though and I'll be working on it this weekend. Thanks for sharing!
Very glad to hear this mate, let me know how it goes!
Thank you your the only one who has linked the cable I’ve watched idk how many videos in the last 2-3 hours idk nothing about electrical stuff. Thanks
You're welcome mate :)
Wow this video is just what I needed. Thx And great explanation of everything and leaving links for supplies was icing on the cake.
Thanks mate glad you found it useful!
Excellent info young man, thank you. I bought myself the same mini amp in Red to match my red sim rig seat and two 20W transducers for under my seat only! One underneath and one on the seat back. I already have rumble motors on my V3 Fanatec pedals. Very cost effective solution. Cheers. 👍
Thank you! Enjoy your new setup!!
Hit there,
I am new to iRacing and after seeing your video on Ultimate Practice Guide I decided to subscribe.
I also will be replicating your shakers build, I hope I'll be able to follow this video and make it work. I already use SimHUB for my multiple screens and Dash displays.
Great content.
Thanks mate, welcome and good luck with the build!
Thank you, so much for taking the time to put together such a detailed video on this subject and making it so much easier for this community. I cannot wait to receive my stuff so I can hook this up. Sincerely, Richard
Thanks Richard!
this is the best explanation i have found on this topic on youtube. very understandable and clearly explained. really great work. thank you for the effort you have made
I'm glad mate!
Bro this tutorial was amazing. I bought an aura speaker and nobsound amp and mounted under my seat and your tutorial and setting up sim hub was seamless. Now I'm getting 4 tubular frame mounts from Etsy and 2 more amps so I can have 4 wheel feedback.
That sounds sweet, enjoy your new setup!
Ah yes the most famous amp + shakers combo. Personally I use a little bigger red Nobsound amp, it is barely more expensive but much stronger, does not overheat this much and lasts longer as my mini fried pretty quick. Also I also used spare vesa plate to mount one of them, happens to allign well. I use one for pedals and one under the seat.
A little addentum, that red Nobsound amp is not all-in-one solution like the mini, I had to connect it to my DAC. Still the output is at least 2 times stronger and there is less hassle involved, I had some grief trying to connect the mini, sometimes it would just not work, it would occasionally lose signal and indeed overheat a lot while this red one is more solid. Granted I didn't use it in months as I broke one of the cables while adjusting my rig and didn't get around to ordering a replacement yet, so can only comment on use over a few months and not a full year. The amp is indeed something worth more consideration, ideally you would want one amp per one shaker to get clear separated signal for which the mini would be a good solution, but it really struggles to drive 2 at the same time. Also do experiment with placement before you fix it in for good, depending on your rig and seat you can get too much of the vibrations absorbed by the seat, or have too much go into the floor disturbing your neighbours. Having one under pedal plate gives nice strong feedback, the one under the seat is much trickier to pull off, good luck!
Hey mate thanks a lot for the valuable feedback! So far so good for me with the mini, but I’ll definitely keep an eye out on the overheating issues you mentioned. I might also try another amp at some point and do a review later on comparing different solutions.
@@LDFR make sure to always turn it off after your session is done, by muting all the dials. I suspect mine burned because I didn't dissconnect it when not in use and it was just on in the background, I often let my pc on during the night so it might have been too much. One day it just stopped working at all!
Yeah as everything gear related in sim racing the job is never trully done, playing with different amp will surely happen, but imo it would be best to just stick to this one for at least couple of months, then after that you will immediately pick up on any differences in your setup. I tend to start changing stuff too soon as I get too hyped and eager and in the end have no clue what I'm doing lol.
Yeah that might be the case! I disconnect my whole rig in between sessions as I don’t want parts to run on idle so hopefully it won’t get as hot 😂 and yeah I’m definitely gonna sit on this setup for a while!
@@LDFR Wise! My rig IS my daily pc setup, with swivel keyboard tray and triples, so I use it every day for normal pc use and gaming, and once I want car mode I switch on all sim dedicated ports on my usb hub and start True Drive. Realistically bass shaker amp and wheelbase are the only bits with their own power cables, so I didn't bother giving those two separate power outlets, but maybe eventually I should. It already requires fiddling depending if I want triples or vr as with only 3 display ports avaiable can't have both ; - / so having to flip extra switch woudn't change much.
This video is amazing, concise, and got me running with my setup. Looking forward to watching your Part 3 latest setting after ripping some laps! Thanks, dude!
You’re welcome buddy, glad it helped 😊
Well Done Friend i am getting going on my sim rig upgrades this year and found this very useful well thought out and very in depth how to setup thank you much hopefully i can get streaming my racing rig soon enough. Keep Doing what your doing friend !
Cheers mate thanks for the kind words!
Top notch tutorial! Made me pull the trigger, and I do not regret it one bit. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it mate!
Just bought this whole setup, coming in today, I'm estatic!
How did it go??
well ? how did it go ?
Dude thank you so much. You were so detailed in your explanation. Im planning to order these to add to my set up. I would to feel more emersion. Saving your video.
Glad I could help!
Thanks friend, I followed the instructions exactly and everything worked very well, great immersion
@@odosimracing glad to hear that mate, enjoy it!
thanks for the video! I've bought all this and will install it next week, looking forward to checking it out!
Hope you enjoy it!
Most informative video I’ve seen in quite some time. I feel very comfortable pulling the trigger on this purchase now. Thanks!
Thank you! Enjoy it mate.
Slip Angle sells everything you need in one kit for $499 (usd) LOL! Great to see DIY is still alive in sim racing
True! I do like the springs in that kit - but it is indeed overpriced. I guess you pay for the time that guy took to research everything and put it all together - which some people aren't bothered to do 😂
Just bought both of these and your video is really helpful in setting them up correctly.
Awesome Igor, let me know how it goes!
@@LDFR it's awesome. My whole rig now hs FFB, not just the wheel.
This is genius! Thanks for explaining how to set this up. I can't wait to get a cockpit!
No problem mate - it really is super immersive! Hook it up once you've got your cockpit!
My god this guy helped me so much I can't thank him enough.
Thanks for sharing your settings file and the details. Hard to find a good detailed video these days.
You're welcome Wilson, I am glad you found this useful!
Thanks man, just ordered this exact setup and spent the entire day looking for someone to show how to do these wires. I'm not an audio guy so I'm lost if it's not a standard connector I'm used to from regular audio stuff.
You're welcome!
Sorry, a bit late to your video but only recently decided to add shakers to my rig. Great vid, probably the best i have seen, thank you.
You are welcome mate and thank you so much for watching and supporting!
Perfectly explained. this is what I was looking for. 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Thanks for the tutorial. I ordered a 35W shaker for the front and a 50W for the rear. As amp I‘ve chosen the red Nobsound 2x 100W. I need to pay attention to not set the shakers to 100% in simhub like you did. At the moment I only play RaceRoom but I have a code for 3months iRacing. Maybe I give it a try.
Edit: the shakers are Dayton Audio BST-2 and AuraSound AST-2B-4.
That sounds like a great setup mate! Good luck setting it up!
Any link to the red nobsound thank you
Great tutorial. Will use this as my reference for my setup when I get to the installation.
Thank you!
Great video I was looking for something like this cause I'm doing this same thing next week.
Awesome! How did it go?
@@LDFR It's amazing, but some of the settings can be a little overwhelming. I'm trying to figure out which ones I need and which ones just cause too much interference.
Just got 2 Dayton TT25 for my pedals. Very good information to set up. Thanks.
Thanks for this tremendous video. Can’t beat the price, and it looks like a fun project to add more immersion to my rig. 🔥
Cheers mate I really appreciate the kind words! I’m a couple of weeks in with this setup and still enjoying it a ton!
@@LDFR glad you think outside the box. Helps a ton of people. Cheers!
Thank you for this video i am currently building a sim rig out of wood and this helps a lot for my immersion! keep up great vids I subbed and saved!
Glad it helped mate, and thank you for the support!
I had great results using this mount instructions guide video on using the VESA mount for the rear BST-1, attached under the Sim Labs GT1-Evo (2020 version) extrusion that the seat is attached to, and the front BST-1 direct mounted to the pedal tray underside (which has built in felt type material on the entire surface to help with direct mount to metal). My rear with VESA plate under the seat vibrations are at least twice as strong as the front are under the GT1-Evo 2020 pedal tray. The custom channels mapping in Simhub is set to 100% for both front and rear, and I'm hiding his custom channels profile imported. My GT1-Evo is the newer revised 2020 version that is 500mm total width overall, up from 480mm I believe, and has a beefier pedal tray (that does appear to have different screw hole locations than the original GT1-EVO pedal plate as well it seems). This can be made to work in the custom channels section of Simhub, since there you can define the front and the rear overall channel volume, like to set the rear to be 60% overall volume slider versus 100% on the front (to compensate for that front versus rear strength difference). My amp is similar to the one mentioned in the guide, a Douk Audio (Tone model), and is the same wattage 50 x 2 channels, and the front and rear BST-1's are connected to that single DAC amp, that acts as a sound card and amp. The result is quite good! I also had tried to mount my BST-1 directly to the back of my seat but it is pretty hefty and eventually the tape I was using list its strength, and it wasn't secure which doesn't help at all. The VESA plate mount solution is great, and is very solid, but for me I noticed about 30 mins trying to attach the same exact dimensions plate to the GT1-EVO 2020 version, that it wasn't going to be able to screw in on both sides. I needed to shorten the width distance for the extrusion pieces that run under the seat for it to be able to attach the VESA plate to both sides, from how I originally had the two extrusion pieces mounted. Once the two pieces were moved closer together by about 2" on both sides of the rig (that was the narrowest that my seat rails could support to be able to mount the seat to the excursions in fact) the plate fit fine, but I should have removed the seat and trying to screw it in upside down was a chore, to get it in the t-nuts. I also hadn't realized the BST-1 could mount directly under the pedal plate in the center even, Overall very happy with his GT1-EVO bass shaker guide method! Thank you! Note: I had very good luck with "4 Pack of Anti Vibration Pads 4" x 4" x 7/8" Rubber/Cork Vibration isolation pads" that can be had on most big online stores, placed under the standard rubber feet; if you don't want to go with the method he used near the end of this video, for the two products he used. The rubber and cork pads work really well and are about $15 USD for 4.
Hey thanks for this! I've already got a buttkicker & just bought a Trakracer TR8 Pro as well as the same DA Transducer & amp.
I'm hoping I can mount the DA Transducer under the seat using the VGA mount, but not 100% sure yet.
This has been the best in-depth & well explained vid I've seen so far, so I appreciate what you've done :)
Thank you so much TJ! Good luck with the mounting!
Thank you this helps, if you run the audio cables through the hole on top of the nut, it looks a little cleaner imo.
Thanks for the walk through. One suggestion though. I was watching via a mobile phone. Foe this kind of viewer you might want to zoom in on the app setup. I will watch again later for sure but was watching at work on my dinner. It was hard to see exactly what you was doing. :)
Thanks for the feedback I'll keep that in mind for next time!
Hec yeah this is a really good help, think I'l be getting this done now. Thank you for the share great work sir.
Thank you and enjoy it!
Really good job putting this together, will probably replicate this on my rig
Cheers mate!
Bloody brilliant info thanks mate.
You’re welcome mate :)
very simple,and wow what a change.thank you.
I’m glad you found it helpful mate!
brilliant video. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!!
Thanks Robert :)
4:20 you don't need to drill holes in your seat. your seat is already bolted to the rails with i guess 4 or 6 bolts. if you drill the distances of these bolts into a accordingly sized plate, you can mount it between the rails and the seat. my only fear is the rail. any ratling compenent in there? Do you get any ratling noises when the plate is fixed under the alu profiles? anyway gonna try this awesome project. thumbs up
Great point Tom! I don't get rattling sounds, unless washers or bolts used in this setup come loose. I also used felt tape between the bass shaker mount and the aluminium rig for that specific purpose :)
Buddy you nailed it amazing content keep up the good work buddy 💪
Thanks mate much appreciated :)
I'll say thank you now. I just ordered the stuff with the 4 smaller pucks today, it will be here in 3 days!
Has anyone tried putting one on the wheel base itself? It seems to me I get a lot of the vibration through my wheel in a real car. Not just torque in the wheel but the front suspensions vibrations out of the plane of the wheel.
Hi John, thanks! Good luck with the setup process!
I’ve done a lot of research and never really saw anyone stick one under their wheelbase mount, but I’m sure that it could be a cool thing! After all, to each their own!
You know man after watching this video I was excited to pursue this concept as I've already done some DIY stuff in sim but after checking the reviews for the vibration pads I really didn't come away with a good feeling about it. Seemed like a lot of these things seem to conk out after not much time. I'm considering just buying pre-packaged gear and calling it done. Probably get an extended warranty on it too since they seem to use the same questionable reliability components.
Thanks so much mate. I just build your setup and it's sooooo good :)
Hey Mick, I'm super happy that it worked out well for you! Enjoy!
I have a date and audio and an amp on the way looking forward to the experience and if I want to add another few
Very nicely done and explained 👏 👍 👌 😀
Thanks a lot 😊
Thank you ! I will try out this setup on my rig ;0)
Sounds great Allan, let me know how it goes!
Try to not run run shakers to max, this amp will work but a stronger amp would get you better and more reliable results. I think 2 of those shakers should be fine for that amp, I just wouldn't run it too high haha.
I have the same amp but only with 2 pucks and a shaker. It's still working pretty good and doesn't get hot. Might upgrade to a stronger amp soon.
Hey mate thanks a lot for the tips! That sounds like a great set up by the way!
one thing to note even though the nobsound amp is 100 watts it only comes with a 60 watt psu. so you could $15 per shacker by going with the 35 watt bst 2. as you cant use the full power unless you buy a 100 watt psu wich at that point you woulld be better off just buying aamp that can take the heat of 100 watts better. i say this even though i bought 2 bst-1 and a nobsound amp knowing this.
Hey mate, thanks for this comment as this is useful information! I was aware of this, and still decided to go ahead and try it with the stock PSU. As I’m currently getting more than enough power for my liking, I’m happy with it! But indeed to use the full power the upgraded psu from their website is the answer.
How about the TT25? 30watts each and very compact.
Great video you did a very good job explaining it all. It would have been nice to have source links. But that’s just me being lazy
You're welcome! Links to almost everything I used are in the description!
Amazing video. I had ordered a Buttkicker Pro and quickly canceled the order because of your video! Quick question: At 18:02, in your simhub setup, under road vibration, I see a Front left setting and a front right, as well as rear left and rear right. However, earlier in the video, under other settings, they are marked as ALL. That part is confusing. Any additional insights?
Thank you for this Video. This helps me a lot. I will try the same as you have.
Good luck, let me know how it goes!
@@LDFR Hello, i have used aura instead of the diatone and i have not them same rig as you have ( i have a sturdy wooden rig).I used your profile and had to adjust the volume for the vibrations on my rig.
It is working really well, i love it. Now i have to fine tune it a little bit.
Thank you so much for your guide! You did a great job and helped us a lot!!!!
Any idea which amplyfier I should get if I want more Tranceducers? I want to put two on my seat and one big or two small ones on my pedals.
Hey Paddy, I’m not sure - I’d look for an amp with 3 or 4 channels (the Nobsound mini only has 2). Or you could get multiple Nobsound minis
Hi friend i really enjoyed listening to you explain the bass shaker settings. I really want to try your settings but I m still new at this and don't know much about UA-cam. Please how can I download your settings.
What is the link to your channel.
Thanks.
I'm one of your subscribers.
Hey mate, you can download my channel map from the description of the video. You then have to import it in SimHub - see how to do that in the video! My settings for the effects are in the video description :)
I have this question, I live in an apartment, how noisy is it? I plan to put three.
Hey mate, I made a video on this, check it out! I show you how loud they are on 3 different power levels, and also show you how to insulate it from the floor so that you don’t get vibration noise throughout the house ua-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/v-deo.html
Great video! really appreciate the effort put into it! Well done, I'll let you know how i go with my setup.
Thanks James, good luck with it and enjoy!
Beautiful video thanks you!!
You are welcome, glad you found it useful :)
Great Video. Thank you for that. I wonder if a Bass Shaker with fewer watts would be better, as you mentioned that all the volumes are less than 20-15. That means the 50W Bass Shaker are way too much for the job. What do you think?
Good question - I believe that power per se isn't the only factor, but one also needs to consider the extra detail you can get from having a bass shaker with a broader frequency spectrum. Not sure that bass shakers with lower wattage offer the same level of detail?
great video thank you, just setup mine like yours!
You’re welcome mate :)
Can you do a video w audio on the shaker while you play? I'm worried about it being too loud
Yes please 👍
Hey! You inspired me to do a part II as to be fair I didn’t cover noise and isolation in this guide - because when I made it I still hadn’t had the issues with noise - they came later. I’ll do that video as soon as I can.
Long story short, the transducers themselves are not that noisy at all, not at the settings I run them at. However, the issue for me was vibration noise: the vibrations traveled into the floor and could be heard loudly in other rooms in my apartment. I fixed it completely by isolating the rig from the floor using rubber feet AND vibration dampening rubber pads (18mm thick) underneath each foot.
Ill make part II showing this asap.
@@LDFR Do you have an ETA on that part II video?
@@22Uzbekistan hey mate I’ll start filming it today and will be done most likely tomorrow!
@@22Uzbekistan here it is mate: ua-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/v-deo.html
I had the buttkicker gamer 2 which worked good, other than going out when it would get too hot. A fun mostly fixed that. I tried the same setup with the same transducers and the same amp, but both transducers blew after around 6 months. I am thinking it needs a low pass filter, because I hear too many mid range and high range sounds coming through the transducers. So now I am thinking of getting a buttkicker gamer pro.
Hey Mark, thanks for the info! I’ll definitely keep an eye out for the longevity of the transducers
Great video! It's making me want to try it!
Thanks Rachel! :)
Thank you. Could you explain how to do it with 4 Bass shakersalso?
It's the same principle, but you need 2 amps! I'm sure there's lots of videos out there showing this!
Thanks a lot for this video bud. I really don't want to drill holes into my new bucket seat either so I'm wondering if there's some sort of double side strong tape to attach it under the seat or the back, also under the pedal location too.
Hi mate! It’s not impossible, but I read some inconsistent stories about this - it worked fine for some, and it didn’t work for others. The bass shaker is relatively heavy and you’ll need very strong tape, that’s for sure!
Thank you so much for this video, dude!
One thing I am stuck on though:
What do I do if the "USB 2.0 Device" doesn't show up in the list of "sound output" options?
You're welcome! And that's a good question, unfortunately it's not something I've experienced myself. Are you using a powered USB hub (like connected to an electricity outlet)? If not, that might be an issue. Also, are you plugging it in a USB 2.0 port? You might have this issue if you're connecting it to a USB 3.0 port. Those are the low hanging fruit solutions, but if the problem persists there might be more that can be done to try and fix this
Great video! This convinced me to do this as my next upgrade! As you know, once you start building, it never stops.. 😅🤣
Also subbed as I really liked the style of content and hope to see you do more!
That’s very kind of you mate, thank you and welcome!
Great video! Would it be possible to buy two sets of these and fit it to the corners of the rig, to simulate the wheels?
Since the amplifier only has two channels. Maybe it's possible to buy one with four channels?
Thank you for the video. It was very informative.
Definitely possible yes!
Very useful video! I’m doing this
Good luck with the build and enjoy it!
Great tutorial , Can you explain how you are able to run a game and Simhub together at the same time so I can tune Live while in -game. I am able to use Simhub to adjust but the game Automobilista 1 (running in windowed mode) stops when I try to adjust any effects.
Hey mate thank you! I must admit, I have no method for that - I just have them both running at the same time. Sounds like that might be an issue with automobilista. Does it crash if you open other sims while sim hub is open?
Great tutorial video! Do you think if adding one more amplifier so you can have 4 transducers, will be too overwhelming. The ideia was to have one at each corner of the rig. Cheers.
Hey! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR Thanks for your reply. That makes sense actually. The vibrations together with the sound with dual or multi channel will make you distinguish where everything is coming from.
Thanks for the video mate, I will check your profile out for sure, I have exactly same setup as yours. keep up the good work
Thanks a lot Horacio, I appreciate it mate! Welcome!
Super interesting video ! I am wondering what's the difference betweem a Buttkicker and your solution in term of feeling. Is your solution exactly the same for a better price ? Or Buttkicker offer more sensation ? Someone as feedback comparing these both solution ?
Thanks Guillaume! That’s a good question - and honestly I don’t know the exact answer to that. I think that detail comes down to frequency range, and I think that the Buttkicker’s is wider. But I’m not sure. In general, given that so many recommend these DIY solutions when talking about buttkicker, my assumption is that not a lot of performance is left behind when opting for this
Love your video! Is there a Nobsound 4 channel so I can adjust things a bit more and add more shakers? thanks
I'm not sure! Otherwise, you need 2!
i have the following problem: my amplifiers cannot be addressed with left and right in simhub, although i have connected right and left, and i don't know why. i also can't configure anything in the speaker settings. Is there anything I need to consider? if I select rear left in the test, both vibrate and vice versa
Thank you very much for the great video. how did you make the sound settings in iRacing. the nobsound is a second sound card. what is the defold and how did you set the Lfe. iRacing crashes for me when I turn on simhub and nobsound. it always seems to crash when an effect comes on or the spotter speaks. Maybe I have a conflict with the sound cards
Check my SimHub vs. LFE video for the answer to this - I explain it all there :)
A question. Should bass shakers be mounted on a flat surface or on a surface with holes to allow air to escape? Thank you.
I think the best way to go is having the whole base of the shaker in contact with the mounting surface!
Amazingly clear and well done video. Would it help to have bass shaker in every corner of the car? I think front/rear is enough, but what are your opinions?
Hey, thank you for the kind words! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR This is an interesting take on it. I heard that if the shakers "spin" in the same direction, they cancel each other out. These shakers don't work like that I think? There is also a system that has shakers in every corner but the rig is on springs, so you can feel low and high frequencies better.
The fact that this system tricks the brain so well is a testament of it working well though, I think I would be fine with this.
@@TheStobe84 I am familiar with the sprint system that you mentioned, it looks really cool! My advice would be to go with a 2 channel set up first, and then if you are still not satisfied you can try 4!
I have a dayton 300ex with fosi v3 amp and if i turn the volume knob at 100 on the amp, it stops working… i have to set it to like 80% !
Maybe it's overheating?
Great tutorial, one question :will this also work wit a headphone that I wear when I'm racing?
hello my good man, is it possible I can Install one shaker first and then when I have a chance buy the other one? or do I have to buy both a the same time ?
Yeah that's definitely possible!
Thank you, waiting for the other one today, amazing tutorial, did mine exactly just like yours and its amazing @LDFR I honestly don't think I'll ever play in a cockpit again if I dont feel the vibrations
Hi, big fan of your videos....do you think with the same setup you have I can get away with the 35watt counterpart that cost almost have???or it won't be powerful enough??
Hi Joel, thank you! Regarding the 35watt shakers, power won't be an issue, but the BST-1's do have a better frequency range and I think the effects will feel nicer. That's what I've read!
How does the vibration compare when it's mounted on a bracket under the seat as opposed to directly under the seat? I'm worried I wouldn't feel it enough or at least as much as I would like to feel.
I'm not sure as I've never tried it directly attached to the seat, but I can definitely feel the vibrations well - even with relatively low settings!
@@LDFR Nice. I'll have to try that. I just finished mounting mine directly under my seat and it feels a little to localized. Maybe I'll give the bracket a shot
Maybe a silly question, bit i‘m tooo rookie yet and at the beginning, does it work with a playstation 4 and AC or do i need a game pc setup?
Awesome video and Im about to begin building your exact build. Shouldn't it be M4 x 20mm however?
Hey Brendan thanks a lot mate! I just double checked and you’re right - I made a mistake in the video. I’ll amend the description - thanks for flagging this!
Excellent video
Thank you!
This was great.
Thank you Philippe 🙏🏻
Thx a lot!
You're welcome!