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Home Assistant Energy Monitoring with Shelly EM - fuse-box install
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
- EDIT: With Home Assistant 2021.8, there are even more reasons to get Shelly EM - for Energy monitoring dashboard.
Today we will install and configure Shelly EM - Energy meter for smart Home and we will integrate it with Home Assistant using HACS - Home Assistant Community Store.
⏵ shelly.cloud/s...
⏵ github.com/Sty...
Don't forget to check also Utility meter video as second part of this video for Shelly EM home power monitoring.
00:00 Intro
This will be a bit different then my previous videos since first we have to install Shelly inside fuse box.
WARNING - if you are not sure what you're doing please ask help from certified electrician.
00:51 - For start - let's prepare all required tools - Shelly EM, some wires, screwdriver with testing tool and wire-strippers.
Please read carefully manual on how to wire and check, check and re-check what you're doing.
02:47 - Next, after disabling main line, I'll put on clamp on main wire, connect Shelly to negative and live wire for power supply. Remember that even after flipping of main power line, there is still live wires inside fuse box!
05:40 - Check once again and if everything looks OK, I'll flip power back on.
06:10 - Second step is to configure Shelly EM to connect to home wife. You should see new SSID shellyem-nnnnnn (where nnnnnn is ID of your device).
In your browser go to default IP address - 192.168.33.1
Connect to it and minimum is toconnect to your home WiFi. Also, check that you have selected 50A/120A in configuration as it should match clamp you are using.
If you see negative value (as in my video) - you should just remove clamp from wire and turn it upside-down.
09:57 - In Home Assistant, we will use HACS (Home Assistant Community Store) to install Shelly Integration - called "Shelly for HASS". Just press install.
11:13 - After it finishes installing it, we need to add one line in configuration.yaml file:
shelly:
11:42 - check your configuration and restart Home Assistant.
After restart, go to Configuration and Integrations and you should see your device there soon.
If you don't see anything after few minutes, you can force connection, by adding "discover_by_IP" and IP address in configuration.yaml - here is example:
shelly:
discover_by_ip:
- '192.168.1.71'
Now you can add your Shelly EM and start tracking your home energy usage.
And this is it for yet another Home Assistant integration.
Please, give me a thumb up if you liked this video, subscribe if you still haven't and I'll see you next time!
Have fun!
BeardedTinker
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#ShellyEM #HomeAssistant #shelly
I cracked myself up when reading the chapter called 'connect shelly em to home wife' 🤣🤣
😂😂 I'll leave that typo there as probably 99% of people will not notice it
I've only recently come to realise that Europe has (to me) the strangest wire colours for live and neutral - for what it is worth - Black for live and blue for neutral in this video - as a Brit I can esily go along with lue for neutral - we used to use black for neutral - both look "cold" - in the UK we use blue for neutral and brown (warm-sh) for live - we used to use red (hot colour) which seems more sensible to me. I now live in Southern Spain - tyou may not believe the colour coding there.
Yeah, it took me a long time to figure why red/black is not used, but found out red for live and black for neutral were only used in DC/low current systems. :)
I've read somewhere the reason for blue/black, but forgot it.
Here in Romania, we have been using for a long time the international color coding: Brown - first/available phase (L1). Black - second phase (L2). Grey - third phase (L3). Blue - neutral conductor (N). Yellow/green - PE. I don't know the reasons for those colors, I dabble in electronics and networking.
Hello from Cape Town, South Africa! Awesome video... I'd love to see a similar project for water mains coming into a home to measure water flow and calculate water consumption.
Hi AlcorZA! Thank you for your comment.
I haven't tackled this issue (water monitoring) so far.
I have seen people in HA community talk about Flume (flumewater.com/) and there is integration in HA for it (www.home-assistant.io/integrations/flume/) but I haven't used or tested it. Also, some have been working on DIY version of it - you can check this link too:
community.home-assistant.io/t/using-esphome-to-build-a-water-flow-rate-meter/119380/2
@@BeardedTinker a pleasure! I have actually seen that solution however it seems rather costly. I have seen some DIY solutions using Arduino or ESP8266 boards with flow meter sensors which looked really cost effective for us DIY tinkerers.
Hard to believe but I don't have water meter :) Strange old building so we use one meter for bunch of apartments. And that's why I haven't played with that so far.
Thank you for this step-by-step detailed instruction video. Subscriber gained for you :)
Thanks for the sub and glad you like it!!!
Great overview video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comment and glad you liked it!!!
You only have one hot live wire. Shelly 2EM can measure that.
But Shelly 2EM cannot measure three-phase current. That's what the Shelly 3EM is for.
Shelly EM can measure two phases - for example grid input + solar production.
And as I only have one, I didn't need 3EM.
But yes, for 3 phases you need either 3EM or Pro 3EM. Also note that at the time the video was release Pro 3EM didn't exist and 3EM was just announced.
You mention that you usually use black for power and blue for neutral, but I don't think that's always the case. In DC circuits here, red is positive and black is negative. In AC circuits, Brown is phase and black is neutral.
In lack of wires that is :)
But here according to standard, all live wires are blue, and ground is black with yellow/green for earth.
Good job man 👍
Thank you Kyle!!!
Thanks for the informative video. Will the 120A clamps be less accurate at measuring lower Amperage loads? I have recently seen the Shelly EM with 2x 120A clamps available at a discount but for my intended installation the 50A clamps would suffice. If there's no loss in accuracy using the 120A clamps though... I do like a bargain. haha
Yeah, that's why I replaced my 120A with smaller ones. The hole is too big for wire and I was getting the wrong readings
Hi, I have one question, the switch whats is it for? Turning it on or off, doesn't change anything in the readings
Did you connect any contactor to EM? If it's connected, it should be able to turn that "fuse" off. If not, turning the switch will of course do nothing.
Hi so you're wiring into the unit directly.
Is that just to power the shelly ? Can I wire it into a fused plug and just plug it into a socket instead ?
Thanks
Yes it's just to power it. You can do like you said, but isn't it easier to do it in/near fusebox? You want to monitor power line coming in, and that's easiest way to do it before the fuse. Device is designed for in power box/junction box installation.
@@BeardedTinker
Thanks for the reply I've never opened our fuse box before so wasn't sure how things wire in or how to determine which wire the clamp should go round.
I've wired in plenty of plug sockets and light switches just never needed to touch that.
I was going to go the DIY method of buying a CT clamp and a D1 mini but read the clamp needs to have a burden resistor built in, I've been trying to find out if this shelly one has it but can't find the info.
Will it show minus values if solar is exporting to the grid?
So I can set my water heater in homeassistant to switch on if export power goes above a certain watt?
I wish I can test it but no solar here (panels, we do have plenty of sun).
But yes, it should give you negative numbers. Seen some posts about that on HA forum.
Hi, thanks for your video, may i know the update interval and is it suitable to use it as a real time energy monitor? Also i noticed that there is no Voltage entity in home assistant
You should be able to see Voltage in HA. I track voltage for 2 channels in it. Are you using MQTT or native Shelly integration in HA?
As for real time monitoring. From what I've seen it updates state every 60 seconds.
@@BeardedTinker I am not purchase it yet, I am planning to use it as a real time power meter but 60s is too long period
There is ZigBee one, from Zemismart I think that has a very short update interval. Can't remember if it's 2, 5 or seconds - but I mentioned it in video
Hi, Thanks for your video. Have you heard of anyone putting one of these inside a modern steel consumer unit? I'm curious about whether or not the WiFi signal would be okay. Thanks
Not that I have noticed. Probably the Faraday cage effect would impact WiFi, but haven't seen any reference so far.
Hey! Thanks for your video tutorial! Great and funny :). Just one question: did you install it on only 1 phase or do you have 3 phases? I have 3 phases for my heat pump and it will probably not work with shelly em? Have any suggestions? Thanks again and kind regards from Slovenia!
Hej Andrej pozdrav!!! Thanks for the comment, much appreciated!
That's good question - I have only 1 phase here, so I was ok with Shelly EM. You will need Shelly 3EM - this one is for 2 phases. It should be almost the same except it's installed on DIN rail if I'm not mistaken.
Hi there and thank you for the great video. Please, could you let us know how to do the other graphs that appear in the main picture of your video? Thanks you in advance.
All the graphs here are HACS frontend component called Mini Graph Card. For ex. here I compare peak/off peak energy usage:
entities:
- entity: sensor.daily_energy_peak
name: Peak
- entity: sensor.daily_energy_offpeak
name: Offpeak
name: Daily Energy Usage
show:
graph: bar
type: 'custom:mini-graph-card'
Or here it's current usage:
entities:
- entity: sensor.shelly_em_current_consumption
hours_to_show: 168
points_per_hour: 0.25
show:
graph: bar
type: 'custom:mini-graph-card'
B.T., given the August HA release is built around energy management, is it worth re-visiting this topic in order to see there any improvements, if any? A reasonable idea?
Good one. I do use my Shelly EM as source for power consumption and it works, but it did take me two tries to get it as I wanted.
Also, unfortunately I don't track cost from within this update, stil have to use my own script for that.
@@BeardedTinker That's encouraging. I look forward to it.
Great job. This video is posted on Shelly's site. I am thinking about purchasing this device. When you hook up clamp to the positive main terminal, the arrow that is shown on the clamp should be pointed towards the terminal connection or away from it?
Thank you for your comment duc! Power should flow in direction of the arrow - so if it's hooked before any fuse, arrow should point in direction of the terminal connection if you follow wire.
@@BeardedTinker Ok. I think I understand now. How accurate is the reading from Shelly EM compared to your utility company's readings?
I haven't still tested it - but I did notice is close enough. My utility company meter is analogue, so it's not easy to to get accurate reading of dials, but so far they are close from what I've noticed.
Hi BeardedTinker, could you make a video about how to set up Telegram notification on HA to multiple persons and group chat? It would be usefull for many of us. Thank you!
Sure, why not! Will do!
I am loving this setup. I now use a Shelly EM to measure total power from the grid and another to measure the power output from my solar inverter. My solar inverter has a mains input which i control and monitor with a Shelly 2.5. As the inverter has a smart function to prioritize solar then grid then battery a percentage of the output power from the inverter comes from solar and some from grid. Does anyone know how i can make a new entity showing true solar power produces? Basically it would need to take the Shelly 1 reading and subtract the shelly 2.5 reading to give true solar output power. I just do not have the coding skills to do this :( If anyone can help i would be very grateful.
Haven't tried that one - but you could (I think) create template sensor that substracts Shelly 2.5 out of Shelly 1.
But as I've said, I've never tried or played with this.
This looks like what you're looking for (at first glance, but didn't check): community.home-assistant.io/t/subtracting-two-values-from-two-sensors-in-a-template/140693
Hi, I have set up everything and it's working. Only one thing, I can't set histogram graph like yours, with two different columns blu and orange. How can I do it? Thank you!!
Thanks for the question! For those graphs, I'm using plug-in from HACS (Community store) called Mini Graph Card.
You can install it from HA if you have HACS installed. And this is the link to documentations:
github.com/kalkih/mini-graph-card
@@BeardedTinker Thanks...Top!!
Great video, I plan to purchase one as well. How do I know if I need a 50A or 120A clamp? Thanks
Thank you for the comment Cristian! This depends on your home input line from utility company. In EU (220V) we normally have 50A line coming in for apartments and small houses. Here is great text. www.energuide.be/en/questions-answers/how-much-electrical-power-do-i-need-for-my-home/1855/
If you are on 110V, then it's another story.
Shelley EM should be fused by 2A breaker or fuse.
Interesting, can you please point me to where you've seen that on Shelly site...
@@BeardedTinker I don't have time to look it up on their website but the following is confirmation email reply from their support centre and I quote "Thanks for getting in touch. The Device and the load current circuit has to be secured by a cable protection switch in accordance with EN60898-1 (tripping characteristic B or C, max. 2 A rated current, min. 6 kA interrupting rating, energy limiting class 3).
Please don't hesitate to get in touch with any further queries. "
Hope that helps.
They should really update documentation and installation diagram. Mine is hooked to circuit breaker...
Agreed 👍 documentation installation instructions app is totally useless I’ve just spent the entire day trying to get mine to work. It’s now found my WiFi and the app will find the EM on my local WiFi but there doesn’t appear to be a way to add the device to my account. So simply it doesn’t work. The help desk is lackluster and I’m at the point of sending it back. I’m soooo fed up with it all now. And in a really bad mood as a result. Bloody technology it causes more stress than it does to help us.
Maybe we there’s an alternative…
@BeardedTinker If I may give you an advice: please do something with the volume of the intro (lower it a bit) please. I always get scared when wearing headphones :))
Thank you for your comment Vali👍
I'll try to fix it in future.
@@BeardedTinker I forgot: thanks a lot for your work! It really helped me start using Docker on my Synology.
Thank you very very much! And I really appreciate your comment about volume! I'm still learning and hints like this can help me a lot.
Hi BeardedTinker, as per my previous comments I installed a Shelly EM and is working very well, however, on the Home Assistant graph, most of the time is showing 0 for both instant consumption entities. I've noticed there are a lot of options on the yaml / gui configuration, but can't figure how to have a more reliable view. Thanks
Hi Havier! Two questions, what firmware do you have on Shelly EM? 1.8/1.8.1? And second question - what integration are you using to get data to Home Assistant - ShellyForHassio custom component or something else?
Thanks, Im on the last shelly firmware an using shelly integration from hacs, just followed your video. I think for a while it worked ok, bu now most of the time is showing a 0 flat line
@@javiermitchell7073 It is because of the latest firmware. You can check SyhellForHASS issues. They are working on new version for last few weeks, but it's still not avaiable as public release. I'm using same setup, same latest firmware and have upgraded to Beta version (it's Beta 6 of future release for ShellForHASS) and it's working great again.
So, you have 3 options - roll back firmware to something below 1.8, use Beta version of ShellForHASS or just wait for future release of it.
@@BeardedTinker thank! This explains things
It seems this has now been fixed
Hi BeardedTinker, can you make a video about your setup. All the addons you are using and all your layouts?
PS. Pozdrav iz BG-a
Hej Ognjen pozdrav! I've made one video so far, and promised on doing second part, but can't find time to tackle that. - here is he link ua-cam.com/video/5uQgYJh6yV8/v-deo.html&
But lately I have been adding a bit more devices and integrations to my setup too, not just test setup, so I'll definitely do another video on this.
Great video - can you please advise the frequency of updates to power for each of the two clamps - is it one per second, every 10 seconds or longer? Can this be changed? I'd like to measure instant power, so hopefully it updates at least once per second.
Haven't played with it as I don't need that precise values in my setup. But from what I've read, some time ago, in CoAP or CoIoT you can't go (or wasn't able to go) below 15 seconds.
And if you use MQTT integration, you could go to 1 second update. Just bare in mind that it influences performance too and could heat up device itself.
You can check this thread: community.home-assistant.io/t/configuring-shelly-em-energy-meter/128581/69
@@BeardedTinker Thanks for the quick reply. Have you done a video on configuring mqtt broker and mqtt integration in HA to then talk to multiple mqtt devices? I did a search but couldn't find one for HA? I have one mqtt integration setup talking to a device with a in-built broker, but have not implemented the mqtt broker yet as I don't know if I need it - I tried to add a second mqtt integration and a warning states I can only have one. Maybe I don't understand how it works or how to configure - I don't know what I don't know lol
@@vk2him I have video on MQTT installation, but in Docker. If you have option to use MQTT AddOn, it should be a breeze - just install addon and most of the configuration is already done.
In terms of integration, same thing - if you are using MQTT AddOn in HA, I don't think you need to do anything, if not, you just need to specify IP address and port number (standard from the top of my head is 1883).
On my setup, I have option to use AddOn, but I use Docker version of MQTT. You only need one instance of MQTT server and then various HA related or unrelated devices can talk to it. And integration will recognise all compatible devices and list them in HA.
“Hopefully not a lot of smoke now...”. LOL. Hey - could I installl this on just one circuit - I’ve got one 220V circuit going to my GPU mining rigs that i would love to be able to monitor separately
Sure, why not. It should do the job just fine.
Hi BeardThinker, great useful video. I'm approaching Shelly devices to integrate in HA (still newby). I watched sevaral videos on devices measuring and reporting data consumprtion, but I didn't find any project abuot using the instant data consumption to cut some line. I mean uno o more devicies monitoring lines to decide -basede on predefinesd priority- switch off temporarely a line to avodi maximum consumption allowed. Do you think it's possible? Can you try do do something like that? Should be a step forward. Many thanks.
Hi Mario! There should be a way to use contactor, to turn specific load, similar as fuse. But I'm not user if contactor can also be turned on automatically. On the other hand, you could use smart plugs and make script to turn specific loads off when consumption is too high.
So, there are couple of ways, but it really depends on your overall setup.
@@BeardedTinker Many thanks for the reply. I was thinking about this. Actually eache lina will be under a smart thrmostate so this will be the swith to toggle when we exceed the defined limit. I have to analyze how to collect the information coming from the total consumption and from the single thermostat to decide which line I have to switch off even if the room need to be heated and decide when I can turn it on again. I hope someone can give some cleaver idea.
4Pole RCD on single-phase panel, Why??
Great video btw
Thank you Marin!!!
That's good question and I would have to find electrician who did that to ask.
6-7 years ago when this was done, there was very good explanation, but I've completely forgotten what it was.
Only remember "don't touch this, there is a good reason".
@@BeardedTinker Well, this is residual current protection - a safety device to detect small leakage currents. Two types: up to 30 mA is for preventing electric shock and saving lives. Yours is 500 mA - for fire protection and probably has 4 poles because single-phase 500 mA is rare.
hi, if i want to download the monitoring as excel file ( i need to monitor for on month) >> is it possible? i need to know the cost for one room so i want to monitor the devices using in this room*
Yes, you can @QararPlus. It is available as csv file that can be imported in Excel.
BUT please note that you will get Wh per time, so it looks like this:
Date/time UTC Active energy Wh Returned energy Wh Min V Max V
4/6/2020 0:00 29.4 0 241 242.5
4/6/2020 0:05 29.3 0 241 241
4/6/2020 0:10 29.3 0 241 242.5
Data is saved every 5 minutes. So you can pull everything and the just select date range you need.
Thanks for your reply, I want to buy, is there any brunch sell in Malaysia?
How can we use shelly to control one of the MBC inside your Consumer unit? which shelly for that?
As in trigger MCB? Not really sure. There are some Smart circuit breakers that can also be controlled but work as standard ones too. But I have yet to test them. Waiting for them to arrive in week or so, but it will take me a bit to test if they work, are they any good at all as normal breakers etc. And, ones I'll get are Tuya based, so... Cloud...
"Second step is to configure Shelly EM to connect to home wife" - What did the wife say about the Shelly EM connection? :)
She's still getting used to it :D
Can you just set Shelly EM to control water heater and to use weekly timer for it ? How can I install it ?
Hej Marko! Well, in theory yes, but I would use something else for this - more like shelly.cloud/shelly-1pm-wifi-smart-relay-home-automation/ - it can handle load up to 16A/3.500W which could be OK for watter heater, there is version shelly.cloud/shelly-25-wifi-smart-relay-roller-shutter-home-automation/ that can handle 2 loads, but up to 2.300Wx2
Shelly EM could be used to trigger fuse and close it if needed and I don't think it's best suited for controlling water heater.
@@BeardedTinker Thanks, never thought that Shelly 1 PM could do !! I will check how could I do that !
This is suggestion, it all depends how you water heater is hooked up to the power. Does it use power socket, or does it got straight into the wall? In both cases, Shelly 1 PM (I like PM as it has power monitoring, and I love when I can get data/feedback from devices) is good choice, but if you have power outlet you could use Shelly Plug (3.500W) or Shelly Plug S (2.500W) - I love small size of Plug S.
@@BeardedTinker It has automatic fuse. Can I send you a picture somehow ?
If you have Discord, you can post there and if not, you can use mail address bt[at]BeardedTinker.com
where can i buy it , ia m living en mexico
There are two official web shops - Shelly EU, and Shelly USA - this is link to US shop shopusa.shelly.cloud/
There are some other shops/partners, but I can't find link with list of them.
... use of a 3-phase residual current circuit breaker in a 1-phase system and bridges of the three phases?!?
Then you can leave it out right away ^^
Anyone who has installed something like this simply does not have the slightest idea of electrical engineering and puts all users in mortal danger!
Yes you are right. But - what does that have to do with this video??! I only have one phase! 😉