Thanks for posting these e82 videos. May want to include the bleed procedure after the coolant fill? Loosen bleeder screw, max out the temp on heater, turn the fan blower down to low, hold down accelerator until water pump turns on, let the system run, close bleeder once bubbles stop coming out. May need a battery charger connected if your battery is weak. Also, instead of having to remove the intercooler to get to the drain plug, I think you can disconnect the water pump hose and drain coolant from there. The hose location is also lower than the plug so more coolant drains out.
Hey there! Thanks for the comment. Our understanding is that we don't need to see the bubbles and it's self bleeding. That we just need to do it with the charger on and run the heat on max to get the electric water pump going. But I will pin your post so that other viewers can take into account your input. Thank you for chiming in and giving our viewers additional info!
You still continuing this? I'm looking forward to more episodes! I found your content a couple weeks ago and have been super enjoying it. Just bought a 2012 135i with 105k miles and maintenance and upgrades are spiraling quickly.
Yessir we are. We just had a few life changing events recently (both Aiden and I moved to new places. I had my first child born), so we’ve been quite occupied to say the least 😀 We’ll be back strong once the storm settles.
It's tough to say how helpful the Liqui Moly additives are. Theoretically, it makes sense they help, but how that translates to real world setting is a separate matter. But for a car that has more than 160k miles, $30 investment every 25k miles (recommended interval per Liqui Moly) is a rather small price I'm willing to pay to protect it.
Do you need to replace manual transmission (or diff for that matter) fill and drain plugs with new fill and drain plugs, or is that unnecessary? Thanks!
Thanks for posting these e82 videos. May want to include the bleed procedure after the coolant fill? Loosen bleeder screw, max out the temp on heater, turn the fan blower down to low, hold down accelerator until water pump turns on, let the system run, close bleeder once bubbles stop coming out. May need a battery charger connected if your battery is weak. Also, instead of having to remove the intercooler to get to the drain plug, I think you can disconnect the water pump hose and drain coolant from there. The hose location is also lower than the plug so more coolant drains out.
Hey there! Thanks for the comment. Our understanding is that we don't need to see the bubbles and it's self bleeding. That we just need to do it with the charger on and run the heat on max to get the electric water pump going. But I will pin your post so that other viewers can take into account your input. Thank you for chiming in and giving our viewers additional info!
You still continuing this? I'm looking forward to more episodes! I found your content a couple weeks ago and have been super enjoying it. Just bought a 2012 135i with 105k miles and maintenance and upgrades are spiraling quickly.
Yessir we are. We just had a few life changing events recently (both Aiden and I moved to new places. I had my first child born), so we’ve been quite occupied to say the least 😀 We’ll be back strong once the storm settles.
@@drivewrenchrepeat Understandable. Congratulations!
@@drivewrenchrepeatcongratulations man!!! I’m so happy for you. Love the channel and the vids not often you see content nowadays on the 135
@@giulihoho4421 Thanks so much! Working on the next video now so it should be up in a few days!
As always, great information! Thanks Guys!
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Great vid...thanks! Do the liquimoly additives really help?
It's tough to say how helpful the Liqui Moly additives are. Theoretically, it makes sense they help, but how that translates to real world setting is a separate matter. But for a car that has more than 160k miles, $30 investment every 25k miles (recommended interval per Liqui Moly) is a rather small price I'm willing to pay to protect it.
Do you need to replace manual transmission (or diff for that matter) fill and drain plugs with new fill and drain plugs, or is that unnecessary? Thanks!
Yes, it's recommended that you replace the fill and drain plugs with each fluid change