I really like JL Audio speakers right now. Their TR line up is probably one of the best bang for your buck speakers you can get, especially since you're adding a sub.
I agree with that. In a perfect setup you don't want to do that. These locations are where the manufacturer has placed them in this video. I also have a similar setup, but with two 10's in the back and tuning it's very hard to tell.
You can try ebay or something for passive crossovers and tweets. I'm a little unclear on the first part of your question. Like what do you use to make the actual connection?
I think I've only installed coaxials in the rear of those trucks honestly. You'd have to make a hole in the door panel to fit the tweeter. Ever consider installing a coaxial speaker with a directional tweeter? Also I'd build plates to mount the speakers helping them seal better and give the speaker a more solid foundation.
You can run a hi-low adapter. This will convert the signal from the speaker outputs off the factory head unit to a low level so the amp can re-amplify the signal properly. Some aftermarket amps have this feature built in. You can pick up those parts at any local install shop.
Ya it might be crossed over at the amp if there's one or something. I'd use the aftermarket cross over because typically it's a better quality product. But you must have a full range signal.
Oh ya for sure. If you want to be technical, round speakers reproduce sound more accurately than oval speakers. So switching from 4x6" to 4" is totally cool.
Great How-To vid Anthony *thumbs up* It's been a few years since I had to install component speakers in a vehicle and this was an easy to follow refresher - thanks man!
I have a similar truck. That truck comes with 4X6 speakers all around. Did you ever consider keeping the dash speakers then deleting the rear and installing 6 1/2 speakers into the door?
thanks... you just helped me out on choosing the speakers for my car. I will definitely go for component speakers. Now my plan is to install 6.5" component speaker in a very similar way to yours in the front and 6x9 in the back doors with an AMP. I hope I will be satisfied with this set up since I don't have a place for sub. :)
I didn't use the factory tweeter wire in this application because I got "full range" signal in the door and I wanted to utilize the provided crossover.
awesome. i'm considering changing out the stock speakers in my truck (2012 silverado crew cab, similar to this truck) once i get a little money. i did in my last truck and it made a big difference
They would have to come with some type of crossover for the factory tweeter to play properly. I don't know what they use or where it's located though. It's probably just a small cap ran inline somewhere.
Neat little trick to run wire through boot. Go to hardware store and cut you about a foot or foot and a half of some tubing. Just cheap ol regular stuff you may see in some plumbing or a fish tank or just whatever. Just want it to be bendable but not to the point it will fold over easily, but can work it around turns. Run it through the boot first , then just sliiiiiide the wire right through. Works like a charm. I actually pulled the new wire I ran about a week after and got some black tubing and cut the length more precise, and just left it there with wire in it. Just an added level of protection
Aftermarket speakers are designed to be run with an amplifier. It's possible your new aftermarket components require more nominal power (rms wattage) than what your head unit is putting out. I'd recommend installing a 4 channel to give you the power you need.
Running a passive cross over is preferred because it filters the appropriate frequencies to the tweeter and the woofer. You could just buy some capacitors from your local electronic store and run them inline on the positive line for those extra tweeters. That's all the entry level component setups use, they'll eliminate the bass. Or better check on ebay for some cross overs.
You would tap into the speaker outputs off the deck. You'll be able to tap into all 4 outputs that way you maintain fade and balance. If they're in the rear deck I would just put in good quality 6X9's. If you're putting in a sub, buy or build adapters and put in 6 1/2". I'd get a 5 channel amp at that point.
I suppose you could, buy why do you want to. The typical aftermarket speaker runs at ohms so you would be running at 8 ohms which would make your system very quiet.
For some people it does. It really depends on the user, because I find everyone's hearing and expectations are different. I usually set it in the middle.
Nice vid. Did the components set up and it sounds great with the tweeter on the pillar I'm not sure if it's actually bouncing of the windshield but definitely sounds great I have coaxles set up in my truck and wanted to try something different on my chevy van I'm glad I did and it's working fine. Thanks
Yea I saw that, just want sure if there was another type of glue or adhesive to install to the pre-existing tweeter pod mount. Thanks for the info though
sweet, thanks.. I am picking up my component system tomorrow morning so yah! Next is a new receiver..Think I will just go with a digital audio receiver instead of cd..
On my amp I've got my x overs for front set to HPF. Rear (sub) set to LPF. Question, I've heard it's recommended you set the amp to HPF for comps. But how do my woofers get the mids?
Thanks Anthony, ur upload is quite informative. I'm about to buy Sony component speakers. It includes 4 6'' woofers, 4 1'' tweeters, 4 cross overs and all speakers will be in the doors, my question is will I need 1 or 2 amplifiers and how many channels should the amplifiers have?
These are just better. Better design and better materials to give you better sound. You can install these in the rear as well and it'll definitely sound good.
The rear speakers are in the rear deck right? Let me know. If you're adding an amp with a stock deck, yes you'll need a line level converter. PAC makes one that will have 4 pre-outs on it.
I haven't seen a 4X6 component setup. Doesn't even seem worth doing since you have dash speakers and that'll give you good imaging. I'd replace all the 4X6 speakers and put a slim sub in the back. Keep in mind though on those trucks when you remove the b-pillar cover it's almost guaranteed to break. GM used a really brittle plastic and at this age it doesn't have any give.
+Ryan Nyquist Preferably an amplifier but you can use the speaker outputs off the head unit. Some speakers do require a good amount of power to run properly, so keep that in mind.
In my experience with GM trucks like this, I have just cut the adapter off the stock speaker and put it on the new ones. What are your views on doing it that way?
I have the same truck, and actually if you open the door, on both sides of the dash that are hidden when the doors are closed, are pop off panels, where the fuse box is on drivers side, theres a perfect little spot to mount them. And it just so happens that's where the speaker wires from the head unit run to side by side, then diverge , one to the tweeter, one into the door. Its about as perfect as it gets if you want to use factory wires
The video is nice but i have a question since my factory speakers have tweeters already and I would like to install new speakers with crossover and tweeter. I wire the factory speakers input to the crossover input, I wire the crossover midbass to the car new speakers. BUT what about the tweeters? do I use the old wiring from the car or the new wiring from the crossover?
use the wiring from the crossover, the factory tweeter has a little capacitor soldered to it to remove low frequencies, but yours gonna wanna use the crossover to get your power
Speaker wiring. default speaker wires to the crossover is sufficient? I have a pair of MB Quart 216 components and they are audiophile design/built. Or is the usage of gauge wires only from crossovers to amp?
OzNath So for audio signal I connect the built-in car speaker wires to the crossover > then from the crossover to the speakers i'll use the 14 gauge? or 14-gauge all the way through replacing the built-in car speakers?
Use 14 gauge all the way through, don't use the factory wire just unplug it from your original speakers and tape the end so it don't short out on anything. Are you using a amp to power your speakers?
I just cant find a video that explains such a simple thing as how do you actually connect a crossover to an amp or car radio. The crossover takes a "stripped" cable yet radio or amp has rca output
They come with mounting hardware if you want to have the tweeter exposed so you can clamp it to the panel as well. People have different ways of doing it.
Your explanation of the speakers is good. The picture is clear as well as the installation on panels. The problem is you didn't explain how to run the wires and which wire goes where.
I only have one rca ouput on my headunit, I am ordering new components with passive crossovers aswell as an active subwoofer. Do I need two rca outputs to run the crossovers aswell as my sub or does the crossover just connect via speaker wire to the back of the headunit? Basically do my crossovers for my speakers need a rca ouput?
You can still connect your component speakers to your amplifier by using Y cable or you can connect it to your head unit as well by head unit will give less output.
You can still connect your component speakers to your amplifier by using Y cable or you can connect it to your head unit as well by head unit will give less output.
You can still connect your component speakers to your amplifier by using Y cable or you can connect it to your head unit as well by head unit will give less output.
Hey. My factory door speakers are component. The speaker is 6.5". It's blown. But I don't want the sound to change, and I really don't want to modify anything for tweeters, or install crossovers. Can I leave the factory tweeter (in door, also), and just replace the big speaker (woofer?)? If so, can you advise on what to look for. It seems most 6.5 are 2-way (with a tweeter on them). Don't know what to do. Thanks for the video. if I do have to change both, you did a great job in keeping the factory look, and sound design.
You could either buy component speakers and only install the woofer portion, or install a set a of coaxails and leave the factory tweet hooked up with them.
AnthonyJ350 Cool. Thanks. I'll check for prices on good coaxials or components. Didn't think about just leaving the new tweet off. Wish I knew the factory speaker specs, so I could beat them, or match them.
whats the difference between the factory speakers that already have tweeter and the after market ones and can these be installed in the rear doors too or is it too much
you know you could use the factory speaker mounts in the doors, all you have to do is peel the old speaker out because it is glued in to that big plastic piece. its much easier and saves money that u may have to use on extra parts.
great video, good pointers, thanks! I have a 2007 gmc sierra classic with factory tweets and 6.5 mids in the doors... do u know if they come from the factory with a crossover?
I have a Jimmy 2002 with stock tweeter option in the place of front 4x6 and main speaker in the door. I don't want to feel the hi sounds come from up and the voice sound come from the doors... Do you have this effect with a setup like that or the sounds is completely mixed and really transparent? If not, Can I have great HI performance with quality coaxoal in the door and quality 6x9 in the back? What your preference? Thanks!
Just one doubt. Is it necessary to amplify the input with an amplifier for better sound quality ? Like sending the output of the head unit to an amplifier and then taking that output and sending it to the crossover.
I got an amazing deal on Sony Coax Speakers, but my car has a component setup, I thought about converting it into a component, but I have no screw behind my sticker. I guess I could cut the tweeter off and make it work that way. Do you think I should do that or just install coax in my doors?
ive got an 11 avenger. tweeters up in the dash as well. Is there a need to install tweeters in the back somewhere or do you just install the two in the front? Also im keeping my stock deck so would i need a line out converter for the front and back? i already have one installed in the rear from subwoofers i used to have. will be installing an amp to power my speakers. Thanks
Only person who actually explains everything. THANK YOU SO MUCH💪🏼
Glad the video helped you!
I really like JL Audio speakers right now. Their TR line up is probably one of the best bang for your buck speakers you can get, especially since you're adding a sub.
To see the difference between Component & Coaxial speakers, watch here: ua-cam.com/video/NRSllVoivBE/v-deo.html
Most helpful useful video I have watched so far thank you Anthony !!!!
Glad to hear it helped!
I agree with that. In a perfect setup you don't want to do that. These locations are where the manufacturer has placed them in this video. I also have a similar setup, but with two 10's in the back and tuning it's very hard to tell.
Pioneer and Infinity make some nice speakers.
You can try ebay or something for passive crossovers and tweets. I'm a little unclear on the first part of your question. Like what do you use to make the actual connection?
I think I've only installed coaxials in the rear of those trucks honestly. You'd have to make a hole in the door panel to fit the tweeter. Ever consider installing a coaxial speaker with a directional tweeter? Also I'd build plates to mount the speakers helping them seal better and give the speaker a more solid foundation.
You can run a hi-low adapter. This will convert the signal from the speaker outputs off the factory head unit to a low level so the amp can re-amplify the signal properly. Some aftermarket amps have this feature built in. You can pick up those parts at any local install shop.
You can run new wires to the speakers, or use the factory wiring, wiring the amp into the factory wires that run to the speakers.
Ya it might be crossed over at the amp if there's one or something. I'd use the aftermarket cross over because typically it's a better quality product. But you must have a full range signal.
Oh ya for sure. If you want to be technical, round speakers reproduce sound more accurately than oval speakers. So switching from 4x6" to 4" is totally cool.
Ya I've worked with Polk, they make really good speakers.
Great How-To vid Anthony *thumbs up* It's been a few years since I had to install component speakers in a vehicle and this was an easy to follow refresher - thanks man!
Glad it helped you.
On a component set up, yes you should hook up the amp to the cross over.
I have a similar truck. That truck comes with 4X6 speakers all around. Did you ever consider keeping the dash speakers then deleting the rear and installing 6 1/2 speakers into the door?
thanks... you just helped me out on choosing the speakers for my car. I will definitely go for component speakers. Now my plan is to install 6.5" component speaker in a very similar way to yours in the front and 6x9 in the back doors with an AMP. I hope I will be satisfied with this set up since I don't have a place for sub. :)
I didn't use the factory tweeter wire in this application because I got "full range" signal in the door and I wanted to utilize the provided crossover.
awesome. i'm considering changing out the stock speakers in my truck (2012 silverado crew cab, similar to this truck) once i get a little money. i did in my last truck and it made a big difference
Yes, they use a little more power to run compared to a coaxial but yes you can.
Depends on your vehicle's set up. Sometimes it's just a little panel if you have factory tweets.
They would have to come with some type of crossover for the factory tweeter to play properly. I don't know what they use or where it's located though. It's probably just a small cap ran inline somewhere.
Neat little trick to run wire through boot. Go to hardware store and cut you about a foot or foot and a half of some tubing. Just cheap ol regular stuff you may see in some plumbing or a fish tank or just whatever. Just want it to be bendable but not to the point it will fold over easily, but can work it around turns. Run it through the boot first , then just sliiiiiide the wire right through. Works like a charm. I actually pulled the new wire I ran about a week after and got some black tubing and cut the length more precise, and just left it there with wire in it. Just an added level of protection
Thanks for the tip!
Aftermarket speakers are designed to be run with an amplifier. It's possible your new aftermarket components require more nominal power (rms wattage) than what your head unit is putting out. I'd recommend installing a 4 channel to give you the power you need.
wish you would have shown how to run the wire through the door jams
Okay
Yes you still will need to install the crossover.
Amazing quality video, you explain a lot and you explain it very well. Its about time someone actually does this. Thanks!
In this application power is from the speaker outputs from the factory head unit.
Running a passive cross over is preferred because it filters the appropriate frequencies to the tweeter and the woofer. You could just buy some capacitors from your local electronic store and run them inline on the positive line for those extra tweeters. That's all the entry level component setups use, they'll eliminate the bass. Or better check on ebay for some cross overs.
For imaging yes. Otherwise they tend to have the same build as their coaxial counterpart, you're comparing speakers of the same model.
You would tap into the speaker outputs off the deck. You'll be able to tap into all 4 outputs that way you maintain fade and balance. If they're in the rear deck I would just put in good quality 6X9's. If you're putting in a sub, buy or build adapters and put in 6 1/2". I'd get a 5 channel amp at that point.
Rears are set pretty low. Are you tuning off an amplifier? Try 80Hz for the 6.5" speakers.
Did you car come with a premium amplified system?
I suppose you could, buy why do you want to. The typical aftermarket speaker runs at ohms so you would be running at 8 ohms which would make your system very quiet.
It's their Thunder Axe series
Positive output for the tweeter.
I installed the new set up a while back. brainstorming new designs
Nice!
For some people it does. It really depends on the user, because I find everyone's hearing and expectations are different. I usually set it in the middle.
If you're running an aftermarket amp then yes, hook it up to the speaker outputs of the amp.
i like where you put the tweeters, i think thats where im going to put mine
Nice vid. Did the components set up and it sounds great with the tweeter on the pillar I'm not sure if it's actually bouncing of the windshield but definitely sounds great I have coaxles set up in my truck and wanted to try something different on my chevy van I'm glad I did and it's working fine. Thanks
Niice! Glad you're enjoying your tunes.
Nice video. Very straight forward.
Thanks!
As long as the speaker is mounted securely and you clear the window you should be good.
what are the sizes of speakers?
No you can use just head unit power. They sound better with an amp though.
It's about the same amount of work. The only difference is the amp in an amp and sub combo is already mounted to the enclosure.
Yea I saw that, just want sure if there was another type of glue or adhesive to install to the pre-existing tweeter pod mount. Thanks for the info though
sweet, thanks.. I am picking up my component system tomorrow morning so yah! Next is a new receiver..Think I will just go with a digital audio receiver instead of cd..
On my amp I've got my x overs for front set to HPF. Rear (sub) set to LPF. Question, I've heard it's recommended you set the amp to HPF for comps. But how do my woofers get the mids?
Did you run new wire from the head unit? And is an amp necessary for such an application? Or is the head unit supply good enough?
I still don't get how to wire it like the cables coming from the radio to the crossover
Will a Kenwood head unit 4 x 22 RMS be enough to power both front and rear component speakers?
What if your car already has factory tweeters meaning there are already 2 seperate sets of speaker wires? Which one do you use?
U connect the the 2 wires of the speaker from original speaker into crossover INPUT then from OUTPUT of crossover to speaker
@@TheHoboWithAShotgun thank you! thats what i wanted to see in the video
e r NP glad to help
Thanks Anthony, ur upload is quite informative.
I'm about to buy Sony component speakers. It includes 4 6'' woofers, 4 1'' tweeters, 4 cross overs and all speakers will be in the doors, my question is will I need 1 or 2 amplifiers and how many channels should the amplifiers have?
These are just better. Better design and better materials to give you better sound. You can install these in the rear as well and it'll definitely sound good.
The rear speakers are in the rear deck right? Let me know. If you're adding an amp with a stock deck, yes you'll need a line level converter. PAC makes one that will have 4 pre-outs on it.
That's correct. That way it's reversible if need be.
nice video. Thanks for the generosity. i can now customize my jeep. Keep up the good work!
Some speakers like Infinity already run at a 2OHM load. How are you wiring it exactly?
I haven't seen a 4X6 component setup. Doesn't even seem worth doing since you have dash speakers and that'll give you good imaging. I'd replace all the 4X6 speakers and put a slim sub in the back. Keep in mind though on those trucks when you remove the b-pillar cover it's almost guaranteed to break. GM used a really brittle plastic and at this age it doesn't have any give.
Just the speaker output of the head unit.
what kind of glue do you use nice vidio thanks!!
You seem very knowledgable. Which brand and model of component speakers do u think r the best currently?
joapps The JL Audio C1 is really nice, especially with sound deadening and FAST Rings.
AnthonyJ350 Many thanks!
AnthonyJ350 What about a high-end component speaker, if money is not an issue which one would you get? Still JL Audio C1s?
joapps Focal makes amazing stuff, I like Hertz Millies and JL Audio C5s. I have yet to hear the C7s from JL.
AnthonyJ350 Thnx man. Appreciate it!
Definitely learned a lot, thanks for the tip on the tweeter settings!
Thanks for watching!
for the input, is that going from the radio or do u have to use a amp with a crossover?
+Ryan Nyquist Preferably an amplifier but you can use the speaker outputs off the head unit. Some speakers do require a good amount of power to run properly, so keep that in mind.
OK cool thanks
Thank you so much. just one question. Is it fine to connect the amp to the crossover than to the speakers ?
In my experience with GM trucks like this, I have just cut the adapter off the stock speaker and put it on the new ones. What are your views on doing it that way?
What gauge of wire do you use for these door speakers and tweeters?
Depending how far you are Monster Sound in Winter Haven does excellent work
so the wiring for the factory tweeter, you just left that loose right?
I have the same truck, and actually if you open the door, on both sides of the dash that are hidden when the doors are closed, are pop off panels, where the fuse box is on drivers side, theres a perfect little spot to mount them. And it just so happens that's where the speaker wires from the head unit run to side by side, then diverge , one to the tweeter, one into the door. Its about as perfect as it gets if you want to use factory wires
Great tip!
You just use the positive and negative speaker inputs from either the head unit or an amplifier.
The video is nice but i have a question since my factory speakers have tweeters already and I would like to install new speakers with crossover and tweeter. I wire the factory speakers input to the crossover input, I wire the crossover midbass to the car new speakers. BUT what about the tweeters? do I use the old wiring from the car or the new wiring from the crossover?
use the wiring from the crossover, the factory tweeter has a little capacitor soldered to it to remove low frequencies, but yours gonna wanna use the crossover to get your power
maybe i missed it but what wire goes to the -3db? Great video...thx
Speaker wiring.
default speaker wires to the crossover is sufficient? I have a pair of MB Quart 216 components and they are audiophile design/built. Or is the usage of gauge wires only from crossovers to amp?
Most cars the factory wiring is enough.
If your running a 100 rms or more to each speaker, use 14 gauge speaker wire or 16 gauge would be enough
OzNath So for audio signal I connect the built-in car speaker wires to the crossover > then from the crossover to the speakers i'll use the 14 gauge? or 14-gauge all the way through replacing the built-in car speakers?
Use 14 gauge all the way through, don't use the factory wire just unplug it from your original speakers and tape the end so it don't short out on anything. Are you using a amp to power your speakers?
OzNath so all the way through. but, what about the speaker wire that is connected to the car? That's the one I replace?
Just curious if you dont use the hot glue what other method would there be in attaching the tweeter to the factory mount?
You would just connect the output from the amp to the input of the crossover.
would the combo come with all the wires you need though, because im lost when it comes to that. idk what wires i need.
did you run your component set to the stereo or are the on a amp?
I just cant find a video that explains such a simple thing as how do you actually connect a crossover to an amp or car radio. The crossover takes a "stripped" cable yet radio or amp has rca output
Speaker outputs of the headunit or the amplifier.
They come with mounting hardware if you want to have the tweeter exposed so you can clamp it to the panel as well. People have different ways of doing it.
So is a component system replacing 4 speakers (all of them) or just a pair like in the doors or in the dash?
Component speakers are when ever the tweeters can be separated from the woofers.
Your explanation of the speakers is good. The picture is clear as well as the installation on panels. The problem is you didn't explain how to run the wires and which wire goes where.
Thanks for the feedback
I only have one rca ouput on my headunit, I am ordering new components with passive crossovers aswell as an active subwoofer. Do I need two rca outputs to run the crossovers aswell as my sub or does the crossover just connect via speaker wire to the back of the headunit? Basically do my crossovers for my speakers need a rca ouput?
You can still connect your component speakers to your amplifier by using Y cable or you can connect it to your head unit as well by head unit will give less output.
You can still connect your component speakers to your amplifier by using Y cable or you can connect it to your head unit as well by head unit will give less output.
You can still connect your component speakers to your amplifier by using Y cable or you can connect it to your head unit as well by head unit will give less output.
Hey. My factory door speakers are component. The speaker is 6.5". It's blown. But I don't want the sound to change, and I really don't want to modify anything for tweeters, or install crossovers. Can I leave the factory tweeter (in door, also), and just replace the big speaker (woofer?)? If so, can you advise on what to look for. It seems most 6.5 are 2-way (with a tweeter on them). Don't know what to do. Thanks for the video. if I do have to change both, you did a great job in keeping the factory look, and sound design.
You could either buy component speakers and only install the woofer portion, or install a set a of coaxails and leave the factory tweet hooked up with them.
AnthonyJ350 Cool. Thanks. I'll check for prices on good coaxials or components. Didn't think about just leaving the new tweet off. Wish I knew the factory speaker specs, so I could beat them, or match them.
Great explanation.
Thank you!
whats the difference between the factory speakers that already have tweeter and the after market ones and can these be installed in the rear doors too or is it too much
you know you could use the factory speaker mounts in the doors, all you have to do is peel the old speaker out because it is glued in to that big plastic piece. its much easier and saves money that u may have to use on extra parts.
love the windshield theory thanks for posting,by the way what model are those mtx components?
wondering if you ever installed component speakers in a 2000 GMC Yukon rear doors.........or any suggestions
great video, good pointers, thanks! I have a 2007 gmc sierra classic with factory tweets and 6.5 mids in the doors... do u know if they come from the factory with a crossover?
what are the best 6 inch speakers to get then? im also going to have a 10 inch sub in the back.
What kind of glue did you use for the tweeters I thought you said Hog glue but I cant find it anywhere
do you need a crossover box for each set of tweeter and woofer?
You'd have to pull the plug apart and drill a hole to feed the wire through.
I have a Jimmy 2002 with stock tweeter option in the place of front 4x6 and main speaker in the door. I don't want to feel the hi sounds come from up and the voice sound come from the doors... Do you have this effect with a setup like that or the sounds is completely mixed and really transparent? If not, Can I have great HI performance with quality coaxoal in the door and quality 6x9 in the back? What your preference? Thanks!
They make a 6 1/2" model, you should be able to make that fit.
Just one doubt. Is it necessary to amplify the input with an amplifier for better sound quality ? Like sending the output of the head unit to an amplifier and then taking that output and sending it to the crossover.
I got an amazing deal on Sony Coax Speakers, but my car has a component setup, I thought about converting it into a component, but I have no screw behind my sticker. I guess I could cut the tweeter off and make it work that way. Do you think I should do that or just install coax in my doors?
What do you want to know?
ive got an 11 avenger. tweeters up in the dash as well. Is there a need to install tweeters in the back somewhere or do you just install the two in the front? Also im keeping my stock deck so would i need a line out converter for the front and back? i already have one installed in the rear from subwoofers i used to have. will be installing an amp to power my speakers. Thanks
I just purchased a couple 6 1/2 components. And a 4 channel amp. I dont need to install a croosover then right??