That silver screw is for the bottom of the bowl so you can empty the fuel out the bowl after you ride , I loosen up that screw and get every drop of gas out the carbs after I ride
Like your vidéo, it help me a lot on lots of stuff. Can you make one showing the choke circuit on the right carb ? Did you ever try to blow air threw the cross tube hole on the right carb . Where does it come out in the carb . When i blow air in mine , it doesn’t go out no where . Is it a casting problem ? I would like to see if im the only one with this problem ? Seems like the forgot to machine this section or wtv so no extra fuel goes to my right cylinder when choking .
I've only heard of Khehin being good. Those and lectrons but those are twice the price although you don't have to tune them, you just jet them for your elevation and then the metering valve does the rest. I've heard of them running lean though but you could just jet it a bit bigger
Hi , i have a question , cant seem to find any answer on the net . I notice that there is a choke circuit drill in the carb only on the side of the pluger ( left carb ) . Those that mean that when you choke your bike to cold start , it only gets more fuel on one cylinder ?? , the right carb as no passage at all ( cross drill and block with press ball ) to get extra fuel when choking . Is this normal ?? Is it made like that from yamaha , meaning only choking one side to cold start and the other cylinder being lean until it gets hot ? The hole where the rubber cross tube is on the right carb aint going nowhere , there is no air at all going threw that hole , is this normal ?
@@kevingalindo1 thank you I didn’t know either I assumed, I just did my first rebuild off your video today! Just making sure I did the right thing! Thanks appreciate your vids
could be. unfortunately, i never encountered one single fully intact overflow screw on used OEM Mikuni Banshee carbs, because the heads of the phillips screws were always completely worn out, so that the screw doesn't comes out anymore. what a shame. i could be so easy to drain old fuel from the bowl.
RevoReese I think they're about the same, I learned with the shindy kits they like the float height around 21mm. I've used tones of the shindys in the last few months and have had no more problems.
That silver screw is for the bottom of the bowl so you can empty the fuel out the bowl after you ride , I loosen up that screw and get every drop of gas out the carbs after I ride
(Its the bowl drain screw)
I thought the same but wasn't sure if it was threaded...
great vid brother
would you recommend using this kit or what could i get
Like your vidéo, it help me a lot on lots of stuff. Can you make one showing the choke circuit on the right carb ? Did you ever try to blow air threw the cross tube hole on the right carb . Where does it come out in the carb . When i blow air in mine , it doesn’t go out no where . Is it a casting problem ? I would like to see if im the only one with this problem ? Seems like the forgot to machine this section or wtv so no extra fuel goes to my right cylinder when choking .
What jets you suggest for stock banshee with only toomey t5 pipes and pod filters
great content, been watching for a while now. what aftermarket Banshee carbs do you recommend. these rebuild kits are just trash.
I've only heard of Khehin being good. Those and lectrons but those are twice the price although you don't have to tune them, you just jet them for your elevation and then the metering valve does the rest. I've heard of them running lean though but you could just jet it a bit bigger
Hi , i have a question , cant seem to find any answer on the net . I notice that there is a choke circuit drill in the carb only on the side of the pluger ( left carb ) . Those that mean that when you choke your bike to cold start , it only gets more fuel on one cylinder ?? , the right carb as no passage at all ( cross drill and block with press ball ) to get extra fuel when choking . Is this normal ?? Is it made like that from yamaha , meaning only choking one side to cold start and the other cylinder being lean until it gets hot ? The hole where the rubber cross tube is on the right carb aint going nowhere , there is no air at all going threw that hole , is this normal ?
The pilot jet that you said was for a different Series of carbs, was that for the the air screw jet that goes in the carb port facing the air box
Lol yea I can’t believe I didn’t know that then 😂😂😂 see guys I don’t know it all! No one does that’s why we gotta help one another!
@@kevingalindo1 thank you I didn’t know either I assumed, I just did my first rebuild off your video today! Just making sure I did the right thing! Thanks appreciate your vids
Where can I get an idle screw?
What about the retainers that fall out when ur turn carb upside down
I followed this video 2 years ago and I lost my retainers because of it lmao now I know
The last screw you tossed not knowing what its for looks like its for the bowl bleed screw.
could be. unfortunately, i never encountered one single fully intact overflow screw on used OEM Mikuni Banshee carbs, because the heads of the phillips screws were always completely worn out, so that the screw doesn't comes out anymore. what a shame. i could be so easy to drain old fuel from the bowl.
Great Presentation.!!How much do I owe you?🤠
Are these kits better than shindy or did u still have the gas leak?
RevoReese
I think they're about the same, I learned with the shindy kits they like the float height around 21mm. I've used tones of the shindys in the last few months and have had no more problems.
South Texas Banshee
Do you have any clue where that O ring go's? I'm redoing my carbs now and I do still have the factory tores on
The unknown screw was the carb drain screw bottom of the bowl right?
Gas drain screw lol
Yup
yeah kits are junk. jetsrus.com
Belize translation for Arabic and thank you
Belize translation for Arabic and thank you
Belize translation for Arabic and thank you
Belize translation for Arabic and thank you