DIY BMW N52 Cylinder Head Rebuild! Replacing Valve Stem Seals + Reassembly [BMW N52 Rebuild Part 13]
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
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👉UP NEXT: [Part 14] How To Rebuild The N52 Cylinder Head Part #2 - Installing Exhaust Valves Stem Seals and Exhaust Camshaft - • Installing Exhaust Val...
PLAYLIST: • [DIY] How To Rebuild a...
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Ending music by Lakey Inspired - The process - / the-process
![Pulling The N52 Engine OUT! Unbolting the Transmission, Exhaust & Intake! [N52 Engine Swap Part 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cv21evuVu6E/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks man
You rebuilding your engine?
@@buildanddrive yes man, great tuto. Everythink is clean, great work.
I saw you did'nt unscrew cranshaft bolt. This hub is very hard work. I did it for the sealing ring, maybe it's possible without.
Hey what's the torque spec for the eccentric shaft caps? Also when I installed my eccentric shaft, it doesn't have tension like it used to. When I would rotate it before to install the stopper it would throw me back but this time it doesn't. Did I install it wrong? Also I didn't take off the springs or the rollers. Thank you.
영상 잘봤습니다..^^ 침착하게 잘 하시네요...ㅋ
23:18 - soak the seal in hot water to ease the installation. ;)
Good idea 👍
Did you use the same bolts or new ones and it’s the same torque spec for the esccentric shaft as the intake cam bolt torque spec?
I reused the same bolts. Don't over torque them, it was like 8Nm and I broke a bolt actually. It's just past hand tight pretty much.
Hi my friend, Excuse me, did you take it to machine shop to rectify flatness? or it was within tolerance, because that measurement was not seen, thank you for the information
I didn't take it to the machine shop but I used some sandpaper on a flat block to DIY sand it just a little bit.
Hi, can you please share from where you got the manual you showed and the torque specs? I am in the process of cleaning and checking the head of my N52B30, I will be reassembling everything soon. Thanks. And good job BTW! I would love to do the whole thing some time in the future.
You can go to newtis.info and try to make an account. BMW has tried to shut them down but I can still access it with my old account. You will have to search for the specs there
@@buildanddrive It worked! thanks.
@@buildanddriveno newtis access anymore here. Do you have a TIS number we could look up in the pay-for service or a list of the bolts and torques. At least the intermediate rocker hold-down blocks and sping bolts. Thanks.😉
If I'm just changing the rectangrings for the teflon ones, do you think I could leave the intermediate rollers and guide blocks in place and just take off tension by undoing the springs with the special tool?
That maybe possible but there is pressure on at least 1 or 2 cylinders where the springs will have tension because of where the cam lobes are positioned, you maybe be able to get it off but getting it back on will be challenging. Possible.
Okay so I had a broken valve spring on the exhaust side, I got a new one but the hat for the spring doesnt sit flush, is there a specific way to get it to sit flush on to the spring?
Did you already do a valve job to make the valve flush with the exhaust port? Try and rotate it a bit and make sure the hat isn't upside down or something
@@buildanddrive No I haven't, Im trying to seat the spring on but the hat itself isnt sitting flush onto the spring so when i try to compress it and put the retainer on, the hat just comes loose because its not flush onto the spring, these are the part numbers: 11347539917 , 11347523971
Hi sir, did you clean also the secondary air system duct? it would be awesome to include it in your video!
The cabin air system?
@@buildanddrive I have a E90, it has the secondary air valve attached where that N52 has a little cover in the vid, it’s part of the exhaust side, the air pump injects air when the car is cold for only a few seconds, once the pump is off the valve stops any exhaust gas to return towards the pump, that air goes inside the cylinder head (right next to the lifters all across the engine) and injects the air to the valves where the exhaust is… it also gets clogged with carbon!
@@Aroo_0 can you send me a time stamp or photo on my Instagram of what you are talking about? This is interesting.
@@buildanddrive sure, I will do.. Later this morning today.. 👍
Im on my way of doing that early next week. Im curious what's the thickness of that metal splint that you used to reinstall the springs?
What is the time stamp?
@@buildanddrive 34:30
It was about 1 to 2 mm thick. It was a generic metal from the hardware store.
@@buildanddrive thanks i thought i need a specific thickness for the spring to sit properly
You can buy the tool for the springs for around 100$ on eBay if you really want to do it properly.
I’m hearing that it’s bad to manually crank the motor ? Something about if you spin the timing you misfire and cause other internal damage ? Can anyone with information please let me know .
As long as you spin it in the correct rotating direction, I think it's fine.
was watching the video and my point of interest is the torques for the intake and exhaust camshats. The intake you found was 9NM. Where did you get that torque value. I have both ISTA and the manual. I did not see that. I am confused as hell on these. The exhaust you said something like 8NM and 60 degrees? I found the exhaust value at 20NM for some reason. Let me know on this.
It's possible the 60 degrees could add to a total of 20NM. I used the BMW TIS. Do you have a link to where you got your values?
@@buildanddrive I ended upusing the torque specs for the N51 from ISTA 9nm for intake 8or 9 NM plus 80 degrees for exhaust. Yours were from the N52 torques. Have no clue were I got that 20NM but it wasn't right.
Good video but doing it outside different from in garage. Ask me how i know ,whole page on doing it outside dark no lights rain burd shit dropping on your hand or grandma dropping african food water mixed with rice peppers chicken casava leaf to a spit ball coming from the neighbors top porch cause she didnt see you after throwin her trash that missed and exploded in her yard but richoshade on your cars engine , my life, wouldnt change it for anything but you organized the valve spring silver topa in this video are hard to install all same time for me on my x 3 ,good video tho bro learned another way
I have one question related to the little lifters, I have 2 heads a 2012 that got a frozen intake due to overheating and another 2009 replacement head both N51.. The lifters on the 2012 don't press down but the 2009 do, you know when you squeeze them together. Are they supposed to do that? I went to the dealer and tried a new one and it is hard or impossible to squeeze. But it you take them apart they become easy to squeeze. They are simple inside just a little piston and a spring. So i want to know if you have any input on this, thanks in advance.
Also is there a difference between the intake lifters and exhaust ones that you know of, I measured, compared and couldn't see any. The dealer says they are different. Part numbers say so, for them.
You want them rock hard when you squeeze them. watch from 5:30 when I take them out. Later on in another video I also show the new lifters I bought compared to the old ones. They were rock hard 👍🏼
I don't think theres any difference between the two
So I took them apart, and inside there is a piston and a spring under it. The top goes on with a clip and it pushed in to get secured with the clip. Now I put some oil under the piston and pressed it in my vice, and it is rock hard now but again if I squeeze the vice all the way all the oil comes out and it's back to not being rock hard. Also the piston head has a check valve ball which when pressed in with a needle releases the oil I placed underneath.
This is not a complex piece.
So even when I opened one of the stiff ones I have when I put it back it is not stiff anymore. So I think they have oil or something inside keeping it stiff. Have no idea how a stiff lifter can stay stiff when it is heavily pressed while the cams rotate.
How many did you change. They are not cheap.
I only changed 2 lifters. They were soft and I could squish them by hand, this shows the piston inside is worn out and allows oil pressure past. The oil pressure keeps the lifters hard. The others were hard when I took them out so I rused them
👍
Thanks! 👊🏼