NOTE: In the video I said they introduced the teflon o-ring in the 2009 model year but this was incorrect, it was introduced in the 2012 model year which was when the N55 engine was released. So, basically, in the LCI "facelift" models.
Ahhh fuck this makes sense as to why my 2011 335is are getting these. EDIT: I did the job on my 2011 335is and the seal were teflon/plastic type, it still caused grooving in the tray. Maybe the previous owners beat the car when it wasn't warmed up, I cannot say why it was grooved.
@@yiannidee Hey sorry I never saw the replies and thought I updated my original comment here... my 2011 335IS did indeed have teflon seals and still grooved my bearing ledge. I only replace the intake bearing ledge but my exhaust ws also grooved but without codes, so might have to do that in the future. I was told on the BMW Tech subreddit it can still happens sometimes, I assume maytbe when someone doesn't let the car warm up fuly before beating on it I don't know.
For everyone doing this job, note that you should technically be using the camshaft locking tools BEFORE removing the central camshaft bolts. It avoid putting torque on the timing system when you force to unbolt it. BMW workshop manual says to do this.
Greetings from Norway here. I would just like to inform everyone that it is possible to repair this and I repaired both my camshaft trays using a lathe. I linebored ONLY the seal surface that was worn down and then bought a slug of ptfe rod and from it I made oversized Teflon seals to match the diameter of the machined cam trays and everything is okay. The engine is an n53. So if you have time and a lathe this is possible to repair with only the cost of the Teflon round stock and some bolts.
@@dmarkovina Sorry I don't have any dimensions for this because both sealing surfaces were mashined just enough to clean up the wear groove and then I made the Teflon seals to fit each seal surface. I took measurements of the area that didn't have any wear and then from a new original bmw Teflon seal to figure out the outer dimensions of the seals. If I would have to do this again I would have machined the cam trays to a specific dimension and made spare seals for them. Anyway the engine is still running strong and has done about 30.000KM with the custom made seals.
Hey man I did this work when I was rebuilding my n54 it becomes a headache when you putting the timing kit back on lol as the camshafts need to be strait with the little QR code facing straight at you but mine each time I tried to put the tool to hold it in place after tightening would see that it hitting it and was not perfect straight but then I got it right and this was my first time dealing with an engine it is an amazing experience as you learn so bloody much
I really appreciate the work you have put into this and your work for the community. Excellent turtorial! I have always been worried about the "special tools" :D good to know its not necessary!
Before removing the VANOS phaser adjuster bolts at 13:05 I think you’re supposed to have the cam alignment tool installed at this moment. Otherwise you’re torquing against the timing chain and when they are loose nothing is holding the cams in phase except cam bearing friction. 👍
Jason! Thank you so much for doing this video on the teflon upgrade as well as the HVA lifters! I need to do this on my N52! And you made it simple to follow.
I watched did my research on how to diy this job and every video or post i was still confused on how to do it but you made it very clear thank you for bringing confidence into me taking this job myself
Good job 50sKid, really appreciate the effort. I have a BMW N52 2012 and I hope I doesn’t have to do this. It is fun tinkering with the engine, but sometimes I’m thinking to buy a Lexus and just drive it without getting my hands dirty. I know it will be boring and I’ll have to find something else to do for fun.
Great video, man. I got here because I may have to do the exhaust cam on my N55 project. I am only getting exhaust VANOS codes (thankfully since on the N55 the intake being bad means new head). If I end up replacing the exhaust clamshell, I am definitely using this video!
The reason for using the cam ledge alignment tool 32:40 is for the alignment of the cam journals to a 1/1000th of an inch accuracy, but also a side benefit is to keep the bottom cam ledge from separating as you’re bolting them down.
Also if the insert is missing from the oil filter cap this will also cause vanos faults. Many over look this. I believe those cam phasers are the old style ones. I’ve replaced many of those for vanos faults also. The bolts are prone to backing out or breaking
Great video, Jason. Even though I don't have a E90, these are still interesting to watch. Will make an effort to start reviewing the E46 videos once again.
Thx man that was a really nice well explained with details in the E-90 engine.... keep up the good work and I appreciate you sharing the task here on UA-cam man!!!🤩😎
I would think if you have two or four bolts or the Ender when you go to lay the camp shellback in place you could start tightening those down by hand on either end
Submerge your new lifters in a container of oil, and leave them soak overnight. Give them a couple of squeezes under the oil before you take them out. You will see a few air bubbles come out of the lifter. Then install them. They wont run dry for as long when you fire it up, and it won't clatter as bad or as long. Just don't pump them more than a few times under the oil, you don't want to over pump them and have a hung valve when you go to start it. I've over done the lifter pumping under the oil once on a G.M. engine, and it had ZERO compression when I went to start it the same day, after I got it assembled. I let it sit for a few hours and the overpumped lifters bled down and it was fine then. It may seem like overkill to pre-fill the new lifters with oil, but I like to do it to avoid the minute possibility of a collapsed lifter during the time they run dry on the first start-up. I did have a new lifter collapse once before I started doing the lifter soak, and never had it happen again after I started doing it. Maybe it was a fluke, maybe not. 🤷🏻
Though it is common enough that they exposed an SIB addressing it, we don’t and didn’t see many bearing ledge wear. Yes every now and then, but not frequent. I suspect if those engine owners did more frequent oil Changes- the wear wouldn’t occur
I sold my Tesla Model Y last week. It was a 2021 model that I bought in March '21 and after owing it for 7 months, the buyer (CarMax) paid me 10K more than what I paid for. While I was there, I asked them to run some numbers on my daily driver E90 BMW. They appraised it at $2.9K. Now we know why people are dumping their BMWs.
Thanks for sharing l got 2009 bmw 335xi saund like exhaust camshaft taping noise but no misfire code just for vanos know sensor too l just take valve cover out to see if has metal damage but l found need tools to hold cams May after take cams out will be see something this video helps lot thanks you 🙏 so much
Hey. Great video. Do I have to lock the flywheel when replacing only the vanos adjusters? I locked the camshafts so wondering if the flywheel lock is required.
@50sKid can you help a brotha out? How did you take the cam bolts off without using the special locking tools and just the flywheel pin? Is that fine to do?
Obviously if they didn't do the exhaust camshaft Holdings they would have done the intake camshaft but probably did not! You should contact BMW and make them reimburse you!
I have a BMW E90 and the engine light came on, my garage cleared it and it seems to be ok but he did warn me that if the VANOS Solenoid is an issue then it could be very expensive to fix as the issue is inside the engine. Could this be true and if so could he be talking about the repair shown in this video? How much should I expect to pay for such a repair at a garage here in the UK? Thank you
Everybody goes gaga over having the prior maintenance records, and yet I have found on my own BMW a third of the work was not actually completed. I've got original valve cover gaskets that are crumbling apart yet according to the receipts I have, they should have been replaced. As I continue to dig further into my '05 Z4 I'm finding more and more of this stuff.
Maybe I missed it but it wasn't completely clear to me if you used the junkyard cam with the junkyard cam tray or did you use the original cam? I'm guessing junkyard to junkyard parts correct? Anyway, as usual a very clear description and narrative in the video. That, to me, is your trademark.
That is a good question and... I don't remember. I also don't think it would have mattered which one I used because it has roller rockers. Premature valve lobe wear was only notorious on flat tappet cams in older American cars but I've never heard of that being an issue in BMW engines. Thank you for the compliment man, I do work hard on trying to be as clear and concise as possible. I missed that detail though!
Great vid thanks for all that you do, I'm in the market for a new project car after my e46 was totalled a week after I got it 100% sorted thanks to your vids. Guess e90 it is.... Also big turbos when?
This happened to me in 2019 with a N52 engines 325i, had the car a few weeks and it started acting up. Took it to a well known bmw independent garage here in London, and they diagnosed this exact thing but also the head had wear ridges from this... Basically engine is almost scrap. I threw it back at the dealership and threatened to sue unless I got my £ back. Bought myself an M54 powered 325Ci... been BMW since I was young but now I Will never Ever touch a newer BMW again.
Excellent content! I I'm glad your making videos again. Just curious how much you paid for all the parts. I have an 08 e60 535i with 230k miles. Haven't had any issues with this yet but I know I should do it.
The teflon rings are super cheap, I don't even remember. The cam trays were very cheap too. Probably like $50. Of course you're not gonna get that price unless you go and put in the work to find a unicorn. :-)
so just to be clear, if i keep getting the intake vanos code after replacing it with a new oil filter cap and filter, i need to replace the intake cam tray? i do see some oil leaking on the right side of the motor
You made my day with this sentence : I hope they are authentic INA parts not aftermarket in a INA box INA is already cheap aftermarket replacement part
@38:47 is exactly how I feel every time I crack this car open. I spend most of time searching for the bolt I just had on my hand or the part that I just removed. Frustrating 🤣
Great video man, you really take your time and explain! Is there any other shot on apart from the vamos code? I feel a slapping noise when I give my car some gas, anyone know what it could be? Cheers and thanks in advanced
Great informative videoss. Could this also happen on an N62 4.8 V8? Im having issues with intake cam error codes and it is not moving on INPA graph. I have replaced all sensors, Vanos actuators, oil, checked all connections etc... I'm out of ideas. Thanks Ben
Hey can yoi please tell me if this happens on E53 m54 3.0s? All i could find was people talking "N" engines even the service bulletin from BMW did not mention M54...
Thank you very much for this video. I'm chasing a horrible idle on this N54 E93 I just picked up from a friend. Codes are 2A99 and 2A9A. He was frustrated with it and said to me it's probably the cam ledges. Did I hear right that all N5x motors use the same Cam Trays and that LCI motors should be using Teflon rings? Can u please confirm? Hoping to get lucky at the junkyard.
Try replacing the vanos valves first. Yes they all use the same cam trays and supposedly the LCI N55s are using the teflon rings but I won't believe that until I've taken one apart in a junkyard! lol
Did you ever figure out the 2A99 issue? I currently have the same code and am pretty sure at this point that the bearing ledges are the issues.. I've already checked and cleaned all camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, Vanos solenoids, Vanos non return valves, new oil filter cap, and changed oil and filter twice in less than 1,000 miles. I've also retimed the engine properly which helped it run perfect for about 6 days until 2A99 and 3001 came back up again. Hoping to hear that you've found a result within the past year.
@@austinmerrival927 This car has been on the back burner and weirdly enough, within the past few weeks I've been prepping for oil change and cleaning of solenoids & CPS's, I've been battling with the reality that I have to buy that Cam ledge kit from FCP or ECS and rent a cam lock tool. @$565+ each cam ledge, plus bolts etc. This is an expensive & tedious repair. I've wondered about repairing the groove in the cam tray by sanding or refinishing, but I can't find anyone that's attempted it. I see WolfAutoparts sells used starting @ $169. I'm always DIY, but I'm thinking I may need to hire some help here. 😢
I'm doing this job Right now replacing all the lifters. To lock the flywheel with the pin is it the gold pin or black pin? I have the gold one in place but experiencing some play clockwise and counterclockwise. Is that normal? The QR codes are facing upward. 🤔 Any feed back will be appreciated.
50sKid ? I gambled on a 09 bmw 328xi 1 owner 103 k solid clean car for my daughter she's 16 the just cranks lady parked for few months I replaced battery registered a new one and car just turns over code is crank cam correlation. I gambled on this just being a crankshaft sensor as ive seen many other e90s crank and crank exactly like this and then fire up w new sensor.. what are your thoughts sir? I haven't attempted the crank sensor just yet im a bit nervous lol I pray it isn't timing I mean 103 k u wouldn't think it be a timing issue just yet hoping u see this I value your opinion and videos u do a excellent job w them. thanks in advance man.
Hello, I am trying to get a car at TDC and the crankshaft won’t turn. I took out the spark plugs and left the car in park with the e brake and I can’t seem to get it to budge. What is the issue? It is a n51 automatic.
Is this problem still a warranty replacement when i got a 135i for 2008? You changed the entrance with new Tevlon rings + bearing shell and the output you didnt or?
Great job lad! Did you try rotating the crankshaft to test the camshaft position with the timing too before 2 x 90 degree screw final torque? I had a scenerio like the camshaft position slightly unfitted to the timing tool even torqued all with the tool.
@@davelowets the tools were from my fren and origin unknown:) it only had a slight unfit at the rear of inlet camshaft. You even can't notice it from the front vanos. Probably it is still under the tolerance of N46.
This is caused by going beyond 6km on a synthetic oil change repeatedly like in BMW oil change service of 24,000km in addion if some noob changes the oil filter and throws out the center cartridge and it looses oil pressure what Little oil reached the head gets hot carbon forms and gets passed the small screens the one way check valves located above the timingtensioner
I have one other question I was going home and car went into limp and was not able to clear the code got home and reader showed a U30B7 only thing I can find is this O2 sensor signal stuck rich bank 2 does it sound accurate? Thanks again @50skid
NOTE: In the video I said they introduced the teflon o-ring in the 2009 model year but this was incorrect, it was introduced in the 2012 model year which was when the N55 engine was released. So, basically, in the LCI "facelift" models.
Where you live buddy ? I’m in jersey need some work on my car 08 550i m sport.
Ahhh fuck this makes sense as to why my 2011 335is are getting these.
EDIT: I did the job on my 2011 335is and the seal were teflon/plastic type, it still caused grooving in the tray. Maybe the previous owners beat the car when it wasn't warmed up, I cannot say why it was grooved.
What was the mileage this repair was done
@@JackRR15 did you ever get around to doing them? my 12 335is is getting an intake code 2a82. they have metal seals on the is too I assume.
@@yiannidee Hey sorry I never saw the replies and thought I updated my original comment here... my 2011 335IS did indeed have teflon seals and still grooved my bearing ledge. I only replace the intake bearing ledge but my exhaust ws also grooved but without codes, so might have to do that in the future. I was told on the BMW Tech subreddit it can still happens sometimes, I assume maytbe when someone doesn't let the car warm up fuly before beating on it I don't know.
For everyone doing this job, note that you should technically be using the camshaft locking tools BEFORE removing the central camshaft bolts. It avoid putting torque on the timing system when you force to unbolt it. BMW workshop manual says to do this.
Greetings from Norway here. I would just like to inform everyone that it is possible to repair this and I repaired both my camshaft trays using a lathe. I linebored ONLY the seal surface that was worn down and then bought a slug of ptfe rod and from it I made oversized Teflon seals to match the diameter of the machined cam trays and everything is okay. The engine is an n53. So if you have time and a lathe this is possible to repair with only the cost of the Teflon round stock and some bolts.
Very nice, but that's definitely an advanced level repair!
@@50sKid yeah true no really a home repair for the average guy
Hi, do you have measurements of the custom oversized Teflon rings by any chance?
@@dmarkovina Sorry I don't have any dimensions for this because both sealing surfaces were mashined just enough to clean up the wear groove and then I made the Teflon seals to fit each seal surface. I took measurements of the area that didn't have any wear and then from a new original bmw Teflon seal to figure out the outer dimensions of the seals. If I would have to do this again I would have machined the cam trays to a specific dimension and made spare seals for them. Anyway the engine is still running strong and has done about 30.000KM with the custom made seals.
@@endrekalvenes8460 Thank you - but they had to be bigger than the original teflon seals produced by BMW as a replacement for the steel ones?
Jason, you’re such a good instructor. Gifted. And we are the beneficiaries. Thank you.
Jason, you keep out doing yourself! Great DIY that a lot of guys will need sometime. Keep them coming.
Hey man I did this work when I was rebuilding my n54 it becomes a headache when you putting the timing kit back on lol as the camshafts need to be strait with the little QR code facing straight at you but mine each time I tried to put the tool to hold it in place after tightening would see that it hitting it and was not perfect straight but then I got it right and this was my first time dealing with an engine it is an amazing experience as you learn so bloody much
Nothing like a straight 6 motor. I love em!
Really not looking forward to this ... But it's always a relief knowing that there's a 50skid diy on the procedure.
My go to guy! 50’s kid delivers again!
I really appreciate the work you have put into this and your work for the community. Excellent turtorial!
I have always been worried about the "special tools" :D good to know its not necessary!
Wow, you really made this job seem a lot less intimidating than other videos I’ve seen. Thanks man 👍
Before removing the VANOS phaser adjuster bolts at 13:05 I think you’re supposed to have the cam alignment tool installed at this moment. Otherwise you’re torquing against the timing chain and when they are loose nothing is holding the cams in phase except cam bearing friction. 👍
Yes exactly right I’m in bmw school
It doesn’t matter because he is re timing the motor anyway
I was wondering that as well. I was like man he’s doing it with no tool isn’t it going to move? Doing this job right now so glad I saw this comment.
He had the crank pin installed.
what bmw school ? @@corbinhollingsworth134
Jason! Thank you so much for doing this video on the teflon upgrade as well as the HVA lifters! I need to do this on my N52! And you made it simple to follow.
I watched did my research on how to diy this job and every video or post i was still confused on how to do it but you made it very clear thank you for bringing confidence into me taking this job myself
Good job 50sKid, really appreciate the effort. I have a BMW N52 2012 and I hope I doesn’t have to do this. It is fun tinkering with the engine, but sometimes I’m thinking to buy a Lexus and just drive it without getting my hands dirty. I know it will be boring and I’ll have to find something else to do for fun.
Great video, man. I got here because I may have to do the exhaust cam on my N55 project. I am only getting exhaust VANOS codes (thankfully since on the N55 the intake being bad means new head). If I end up replacing the exhaust clamshell, I am definitely using this video!
You're a legend. Thanks for the great coverage on this diy!
Bro is a real gift thanks u helped me retime my engine an new seals
Loved this video. You went above and beyond on this one once again. Thanks!
The reason for using the cam ledge alignment tool 32:40 is for the alignment of the cam journals to a 1/1000th of an inch accuracy, but also a side benefit is to keep the bottom cam ledge from separating as you’re bolting them down.
Man it's the only thing holding me back from doing the job. That really worries me but I can't read any info online. 500$ tool.
THANK YOU "J" GREETINGS FROM TORONTO, CANADA, GOOD JOB AS ALWAYS. YOU ARE STILL MY HERO.
Also if the insert is missing from the oil filter cap this will also cause vanos faults. Many over look this. I believe those cam phasers are the old style ones. I’ve replaced many of those for vanos faults also. The bolts are prone to backing out or breaking
What is a insert on oil filter cap and does a 03 bmw 745i have one?
I have the design without vanos bolts but at idle I have a strange noise that resembles the one from broken vanos bolts…
50s Kid is back !!!!! woot woot , good to see ya !!!
Thanks!
Great video, Jason. Even though I don't have a E90, these are still interesting to watch. Will make an effort to start reviewing the E46 videos once again.
Thanks man, I'm trying to keep it interesting if I can.
Great Video, as always.
Thanks for sharing, Jason.
Thanks for watching!
Thx man that was a really nice well explained with details in the E-90 engine.... keep up the good work and I appreciate you sharing the task here on UA-cam man!!!🤩😎
Glad you liked it!
That was a great video. I have to do the very same job on my 2010 X3 with an N52 engine. Thanks it was very helpful!
Thanks for the info, upload and explanations 👍🏽 Totally Appreciated thanks
I would think if you have two or four bolts or the Ender when you go to lay the camp shellback in place you could start tightening those down by hand on either end
Fantastic work Jason
Really enjoy the diy videos you do.
Thank you!
Submerge your new lifters in a container of oil, and leave them soak overnight. Give them a couple of squeezes under the oil before you take them out. You will see a few air bubbles come out of the lifter. Then install them. They wont run dry for as long when you fire it up, and it won't clatter as bad or as long. Just don't pump them more than a few times under the oil, you don't want to over pump them and have a hung valve when you go to start it. I've over done the lifter pumping under the oil once on a G.M. engine, and it had ZERO compression when I went to start it the same day, after I got it assembled. I let it sit for a few hours and the overpumped lifters bled down and it was fine then. It may seem like overkill to pre-fill the new lifters with oil, but I like to do it to avoid the minute possibility of a collapsed lifter during the time they run dry on the first start-up. I did have a new lifter collapse once before I started doing the lifter soak, and never had it happen again after I started doing it. Maybe it was a fluke, maybe not. 🤷🏻
The special tool is to 1 check if the cams are in correcting timing with the crankshaft then it holds down cams when your releasing the vanos actuater
Though it is common enough that they exposed an SIB addressing it, we don’t and didn’t see many bearing ledge wear. Yes every now and then, but not frequent. I suspect if those engine owners did more frequent oil Changes- the wear wouldn’t occur
I sold my Tesla Model Y last week. It was a 2021 model that I bought in March '21 and after owing it for 7 months, the buyer (CarMax) paid me 10K more than what I paid for. While I was there, I asked them to run some numbers on my daily driver E90 BMW. They appraised it at $2.9K. Now we know why people are dumping their BMWs.
Great video 50sKid i don't have a BMW but i like to watch your videos.
Another great video! Thanks 😁
Thanks for sharing l got 2009 bmw 335xi saund like exhaust camshaft taping noise but no misfire code just for vanos know sensor too l just take valve cover out to see if has metal damage but l found need tools to hold cams May after take cams out will be see something this video helps lot thanks you 🙏 so much
You're very good Jason
Great job and video Jason. Pls update us if the vanos codes return.
Very well detailed with all your videos keep up the good work 👍man 🏆
FCP euro now sells this as a clamshell refresh kit, with the teflon seals.
Could this also be causing a low oil pressure? and how many hours did the job take to do? thanks this video is so helpful.
Part number of the rings? Thx
you're a legend bro, thank you.
So glad I got rid of my BMW!
I’ve broken a cam in an m50 before by tightening it down unevenly. The design is very similar.
Amazing video! thanks for giving us confidence
Happy to help!
Hey. Great video. Do I have to lock the flywheel when replacing only the vanos adjusters? I locked the camshafts so wondering if the flywheel lock is required.
fantastic video! thanks for this!
Hat off to you Sir! Mind telling us what was the mileage on the car when you did the job?
@50sKid can you help a brotha out? How did you take the cam bolts off without using the special locking tools and just the flywheel pin? Is that fine to do?
Fantastic content sir!!!!!! Thank you!
Obviously if they didn't do the exhaust camshaft Holdings they would have done the intake camshaft but probably did not! You should contact BMW and make them reimburse you!
Man your videos are really fantastic 👌
I have a BMW E90 and the engine light came on, my garage cleared it and it seems to be ok but he did warn me that if the VANOS Solenoid is an issue then it could be very expensive to fix as the issue is inside the engine. Could this be true and if so could he be talking about the repair shown in this video? How much should I expect to pay for such a repair at a garage here in the UK? Thank you
The camshafts are also worn.
Everybody goes gaga over having the prior maintenance records, and yet I have found on my own BMW a third of the work was not actually completed. I've got original valve cover gaskets that are crumbling apart yet according to the receipts I have, they should have been replaced. As I continue to dig further into my '05 Z4 I'm finding more and more of this stuff.
The sprockets can also cause problems.
Thanks for the clip my friend
There’s tons of giggity’s after 9:50 lol
Hey bud, what happens if you let it go un repaired and just drive with no cares?
Maybe I missed it but it wasn't completely clear to me if you used the junkyard cam with the junkyard cam tray or did you use the original cam? I'm guessing junkyard to junkyard parts correct? Anyway, as usual a very clear description and narrative in the video. That, to me, is your trademark.
That is a good question and... I don't remember. I also don't think it would have mattered which one I used because it has roller rockers. Premature valve lobe wear was only notorious on flat tappet cams in older American cars but I've never heard of that being an issue in BMW engines. Thank you for the compliment man, I do work hard on trying to be as clear and concise as possible. I missed that detail though!
Great vid thanks for all that you do, I'm in the market for a new project car after my e46 was totalled a week after I got it 100% sorted thanks to your vids. Guess e90 it is.... Also big turbos when?
How many points of failure do you need?
Try oil filter mechanism and vanos filters first.
This happened to me in 2019 with a N52 engines 325i, had the car a few weeks and it started acting up. Took it to a well known bmw independent garage here in London, and they diagnosed this exact thing but also the head had wear ridges from this... Basically engine is almost scrap. I threw it back at the dealership and threatened to sue unless I got my £ back. Bought myself an M54 powered 325Ci... been BMW since I was young but now I Will never Ever touch a newer BMW again.
Can these ledges be fixed in the 328i heads? Or do you need a new head?
Excellent content! I I'm glad your making videos again. Just curious how much you paid for all the parts. I have an 08 e60 535i with 230k miles. Haven't had any issues with this yet but I know I should do it.
The teflon rings are super cheap, I don't even remember. The cam trays were very cheap too. Probably like $50. Of course you're not gonna get that price unless you go and put in the work to find a unicorn. :-)
Man, I thought the engine space inside my 2011 Mini S Clubman was tight when I recently changed the timing chain. Good luck
And u guys love these garbage cars are too expensive to be built so poorly money pits but u like them i love the money I make on the repairs thanks
so just to be clear, if i keep getting the intake vanos code after replacing it with a new oil filter cap and filter, i need to replace the intake cam tray? i do see some oil leaking on the right side of the motor
You made my day with this sentence :
I hope they are authentic INA parts not aftermarket in a INA box
INA is already cheap aftermarket replacement part
@38:47 is exactly how I feel every time I crack this car open. I spend most of time searching for the bolt I just had on my hand or the part that I just removed. Frustrating 🤣
Great video man, you really take your time and explain! Is there any other shot on apart from the vamos code? I feel a slapping noise when I give my car some gas, anyone know what it could be? Cheers and thanks in advanced
Thanks, well done :)
Great video ! But how did you aligne the cam phasers ?
It’s in the video. The timing tools have a jig for that
You should really pre lubricate those Teflon rings so you don't scratch or put any Cuts in the O-rings!
you r back!
Very good video 👍
Good job
great work bro
Thanks dude!
Great informative videoss. Could this also happen on an N62 4.8 V8? Im having issues with intake cam error codes and it is not moving on INPA graph.
I have replaced all sensors, Vanos actuators, oil, checked all connections etc... I'm out of ideas.
Thanks Ben
What Cam bearings are you talking about, I never seen them ?
Great job👍🏽👍🏽
How you gonna line up the camshaft to prevent valves damage?
When the lock pin is in , does that mean it should not move from the hub from either way?
Hey can yoi please tell me if this happens on E53 m54 3.0s? All i could find was people talking "N" engines even the service bulletin from BMW did not mention M54...
Soaking those lifters in oil helps prevent dry start
Thank you very much for this video. I'm chasing a horrible idle on this N54 E93 I just picked up from a friend. Codes are 2A99 and 2A9A. He was frustrated with it and said to me it's probably the cam ledges. Did I hear right that all N5x motors use the same Cam Trays and that LCI motors should be using Teflon rings? Can u please confirm? Hoping to get lucky at the junkyard.
Try replacing the vanos valves first. Yes they all use the same cam trays and supposedly the LCI N55s are using the teflon rings but I won't believe that until I've taken one apart in a junkyard! lol
Did you ever figure out the 2A99 issue? I currently have the same code and am pretty sure at this point that the bearing ledges are the issues.. I've already checked and cleaned all camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, Vanos solenoids, Vanos non return valves, new oil filter cap, and changed oil and filter twice in less than 1,000 miles. I've also retimed the engine properly which helped it run perfect for about 6 days until 2A99 and 3001 came back up again. Hoping to hear that you've found a result within the past year.
@@austinmerrival927 This car has been on the back burner and weirdly enough, within the past few weeks I've been prepping for oil change and cleaning of solenoids & CPS's, I've been battling with the reality that I have to buy that Cam ledge kit from FCP or ECS and rent a cam lock tool. @$565+ each cam ledge, plus bolts etc. This is an expensive & tedious repair. I've wondered about repairing the groove in the cam tray by sanding or refinishing, but I can't find anyone that's attempted it. I see WolfAutoparts sells used starting @ $169. I'm always DIY, but I'm thinking I may need to hire some help here. 😢
Bmw guy back!
Is that your new bimmer?
I'm doing this job Right now replacing all the lifters. To lock the flywheel with the pin is it the gold pin or black pin? I have the gold one in place but experiencing some play clockwise and counterclockwise. Is that normal? The QR codes are facing upward. 🤔 Any feed back will be appreciated.
50sKid ? I gambled on a 09 bmw 328xi 1 owner 103 k solid clean car for my daughter she's 16 the just cranks lady parked for few months I replaced battery registered a new one and car just turns over code is crank cam correlation. I gambled on this just being a crankshaft sensor as ive seen many other e90s crank and crank exactly like this and then fire up w new sensor.. what are your thoughts sir? I haven't attempted the crank sensor just yet im a bit nervous lol I pray it isn't timing I mean 103 k u wouldn't think it be a timing issue just yet hoping u see this I value your opinion and videos u do a excellent job w them. thanks in advance man.
Hello, I am trying to get a car at TDC and the crankshaft won’t turn. I took out the spark plugs and left the car in park with the e brake and I can’t seem to get it to budge. What is the issue? It is a n51 automatic.
Is this problem still a warranty replacement when i got a 135i for 2008?
You changed the entrance with new Tevlon rings + bearing shell and the output you didnt or?
Great job lad! Did you try rotating the crankshaft to test the camshaft position with the timing too before 2 x 90 degree screw final torque? I had a scenerio like the camshaft position slightly unfitted to the timing tool even torqued all with the tool.
No, but had no issues with the job. Cars running great
I've never had any issues like that either. Was your tool worn-out, or perhaps from China? 😲
@@davelowets the tools were from my fren and origin unknown:) it only had a slight unfit at the rear of inlet camshaft. You even can't notice it from the front vanos. Probably it is still under the tolerance of N46.
@@horrychan2304 Most likely. I can't imagine a slight misalignment of less than a degree making a whole lot of difference.
This is caused by going beyond 6km on a synthetic oil change repeatedly like in BMW oil change service of 24,000km in addion if some noob changes the oil filter and throws out the center cartridge and it looses oil pressure what Little oil reached the head gets hot carbon forms and gets passed the small screens the one way check valves located above the timingtensioner
Great video. I get the privilege of doing the same thing.
I was wondering if I can get that parts number on the lifters. Thanks!
What if I don’t have the chain tensioner thing to fix the slack? Is there anyway to do it
@50skid can you link where you got the lifters please great video thanks for the help!
www.ebay.com/itm/232266149843
The only other question I have it how do you make sure they stay on top on the cam?
@@raymartinez5327 The rollers? You just be careful and double check that they didn't slip off. It's all in the video.
@50skid thanks again you been a life saver
I have one other question I was going home and car went into limp and was not able to clear the code got home and reader showed a U30B7 only thing I can find is this O2 sensor signal stuck rich bank 2 does it sound accurate? Thanks again @50skid