Excellent video, didn’t have a clue how to install panels. During the lockdown I couldn’t get any fitters so thought I might as well give it a go. Couldn’t be happier. THANKS PC TEAM
In your video you cut the base trim to fit the shower tray all the way across. My panels will go beyond the width of the tray. How do you fit the shower enclosure with the Cladseal effectively running behind the shower enclosure wall mount at the bottom? Hope that makes sense.
Great video James. I have been advised that the Cladseal strip is only for aesthetic purposes and not necessary when installing your panels. This seems to conflict with what you are saying on the video and the use of the strip would prevent water escaping out of the shower enclosure. Which is correct?
I was very impressed with the video tutorial, however I have a question about the cladseal, if you are going to fit a shower enclosure then the sloped part of the clad seal would prevent it sitting on the tray and up against the wall don't you have to cut away a section so it will fit?
If the panels are to go completely around the bathroom walls, what is the best method of inserting the final panel as it will need to be received by the groove at one side and either a corner trim at the other or the tongue from the panel next to it. I am guessing that it might require the last two panels to be inserted together both initially angled slightly out from the wall until they are pressed flat against the wall?
Great video. I am fitting this product on a brick wall, should i put plasterboard on first then this? Or can i just put this on, will adhesive stick to brick?
3.45 does the corner trim sit inside the bottom trim? Would of been nice to see a close up of that! Also seen other videos where the corner trim is stuck in place first. Who's right? More explanation needed!
We are working on a more in depth video to discuss this. For reference though the internal corner would sit on the cladseal strip. For maximum waterproofing the clad-seal must be around the entirety of the bath or shower tray.
Would the cladseal interfere with the shower doors? Would i need to cut out some of the cladseal trim to fit the shower doors (within the shower tray) our boards will be going beyond the shower tray too..
The cladseal should finish at the internal of the shower door. The panel should run behind the shower profile. The easiest way to do this is to offer the shower profile up and mark it on the tray and then cut the clad seals to that mark.
It is a very good video, very helpful and the product is first class. I have fitted quite a few of these in the past from other suppliers and recently fitted wall panels from this particular company. I note that in your video you turn the panel over, design side down, when cutting the panel with a panel saw. I found this a bit off, as when cutting with a hand saw, we cut on the down stroke which would, or may, lead to chipping of the underside, which would be the design side in this case. Is it not best to cut with the design side up as I have always done. Or am I missing something? Thanks and keep the videos coming. Cheers
Hi Alistair, In our experience we only cut the face of the panel with a Stanley Blade. In terms of using the saw so long as it is a fine tooth saw, you shouldn't have any issue with chipping. we have found if the saw slips at an angle its possible it would chip the side facing up which is why we have done it this way. However this is most likely a matter of opinion and we would recommend whatever makes the best finish for your self. We will do further testing before our next video and amend this if we need.
Hi Andy - Yes you are quite right all panels require adhesive on the back, when it comes to the tongue & groove interlocking system we also suggest a tiny bead of silicone inside the join to ensure extra water tightness (any excess that seeps through to the front of the panel should be wiped off immediately). If you have any further questions please do get in touch. The Panel Company
Correct James, it's very rare if not impossible to get a tray with a Upstand in the UK, A few cheap plastic trays have them moulded in ,What is used are products like Classiseal or aquastop type seals ,They are a long rubber type strip about 4 or 5 inches high with a bitumen type adhesive along 1 edge about 1 1/2 inches high , Abraid the side of the tray going to the walls ,Stick in on and a bead of sealer applied around the edge , Then when U panel or tile keep them up about 3 mm and seal that to the tray , From what I remember the upstands either cracked or were that thick the wall had to be chilled out ,U can imagine some clown taking a kango to the wall in a block of apartments and taking 1/2 the blocks out ,Belt and braces , Them strips on these video are gimmick decorative U can never reseal them if leaking
Ive striped the bathroom back to brick, can I install OSB for the walls & panel over it rather than have the plasterer board & skim before paneling? I'd rather do osb walls. Thank you.
What about waterproofing the wall before add the panels? I’m confused because that adhesive that was applied doesn’t seem enough to keep water from seeping in.
What do you do to cover up the two parts of the wall below the panels as they come off the tray seen in your video at 8:20 I suppose you need to cut the panel around the tray?
Hi Nigel, We are working on another video to outline a few of these questions. As this is just a show booth our intention is to place skirting along the bottom this would cover the gap that you noticed. However for a perfect finish in your own home we would recommend you cut the shape of the shower board out of the panel so it sits flush against the tray and the floor. you can then apply either a silicone and end cap trim or silicone and finish it of with one of our skirting boards. To do this measure the remaining shower-tray before the gap to the floor. Measure the height of your shower tray and then cut this out of the board before installing.
I can see that water can get in between the silver trim and the panel. While it does not leak outside over the wall, this is still a source of limescale deposits and mould growth. I wish there was a sealant placed between the edges of the panel and trim. The sealant can be cleaned or removed if it has the same issue, but that crevice between the trim and panel is not accessible for cleaning.
Hi Craig, we currently sell them in 15mm and 18mm. as they are designed to fit round the bath i'm sure you wont have any issues getting them behind your bath mixer.
How would you recommend fitting when pipework for mixer shower is already there? Would it be a case of measuring where the pipes come out and drilling holes? Or would you joint around pipework?
Hi, If its somewhere where it may receive direct hits from running water, then a thin bead of silicone in the trim will help enforce the water proof ability of the panels and trims!
@@ThePanelCompany 1. A close up of the corner strip sitting on the cladseal. 2. A close up of the panels at the end of the shower tray - presumably you are cutting out a section to ensure the panel sits on the floor? 3. Making the holes for the shower pipes.
May I know if I can still install the panels according to the video if my bathroom is not true square (ie the interior corners of the walls are not 90 degree)? Many thanks!
Hi Tom - No that would not be advisable as the whole cladseal trim would be visible and no panel would be sitting on top of it as it would be behind. Instead we would advise you sealing around the base of the bath with silicone. Any further questions please do get in touch. The Panel Company.
Hi Arthur, yes we did, we would just ensure that the panels will be long enough to go floor to ceiling plus some wastage to ensure you can get the grout lines to match up.
Hi Angela - Yes you can using silicone as the adhesive, you would just need to make sure that your existing wet wall was fully cleaned down and clear of any residue (we recommend sugar soap), this ensures that the panels and adhesive can form a good bond with the existing surface. Any further questions get in touch!
As a fitter I’m aware that it is a British standard guideline to waterproof membrane a shower enclosure. Does that apply when using these boards? Thanks, Rob.
Hi Rob - Yes it does however this is entirely down the fitters personal discretion whether to do this or not when installing panels. Some of our fitters that buy from us choose not to do this as the panels are fully watertight and when installed properly no water gets through the panels at all.
Very professional video! I have a couple of questions. Is it crucial that the clade seal strip and internal corner trim are used? or can you butt the panels together in the corner and to the shower tray as long as you use plenty of sealant, and if the cubicle is constructed of wedi board and well tanked to prevent ingress of water. It's just that the trims make the overall look, less attractive. Many thanks for the video.
Hi, You can certainly do what you mentioned, in fact a lot of our traders do this. One thing i would still use though is the clad-seal this will make sure direct water doesn't get behind your shower tray.
@Panel Company wow thanks for getting back so quickly. Unfortunately I can't get a shower tray the size I need for an ensuite, so I will have have to construct one with wedi board so it will be a completely tanked enclosure belt and braces kind of job. When I come to do the job I think I will leave the clad seal strip out and just make sure the base and corners are well and truly taped and tanked and then plenty of sealant at the base and corners of the panels as I fit them. Thanks once again!
Hello! I asked a bathroom fitter about installing panels and the said he doesn’t recommend it because there were too many boxes around pipes and how the wall would tanking and membrane treatment - is that true?
These Panels will be fine for that too. However if you do have a lot of boxing in with various external corners. It may be easier for you to use a smaller board such as a 250mm board to make them easier to cut.
Hi - Yes all of our wall panels can be cut to size using a fine tooth hand saw or a sharp stanley knife - please see our cutting guide below - www.panelcompany.co.uk/pages/how-to-cut-pvc-wall-panels
Hi - Yes when installing directly onto plaster board we recommend a solvent free adhesive, the one we recommend is called pink grip. This is an instant grab adhesive, and we advise for the adhesive to be applied onto the back of the panel in a zig zag manner prior to sticking to the plaster board. Any further questions please do get in touch.
Hi Neil - Yes all of our panels can be installed over existing tiles using silicone as the adhesive. Prior to installation we always recommend that tiles are fully cleaned down and clear of any residue (we recommend sugar soap) this ensures that the panels and adhesive can form a good bond with the existing tiles. Any further questions please do get in touch.
My shower is 1100mm would you recommend using a full panel with a 100mm strip or cutting 2 panels to 550mm for this space? I'm also lazy and need to build out from the wall to avoid some pipes, would I need to add plywood/plasterboard onto the batens or can I just attach the panels onto them as the 10mm panels seem quite sturdy ...
Hi Dominic, In regards to filling the 1100mm space. It would be a personal choice, I would recommend two boards cut to 550mm, as this would make the pattern of some of the shower panels fit seamlessly in the shower area. However, depending on your price range we do also sell a selection of 1200mm Boards these are in the form of a pack of 2x 600mm boards (www.panelcompany.co.uk/collections/shower-panels/width_600mm) Our Shower Wall Range also have a wide range of 1200 wide boards. (www.panelcompany.co.uk/collections/showerwall). This means you would just have to slice 100mm. In regards to the wall extension as long as the battens are close together enough that you can get a good bond with the panel, that will be fine.
@@ThePanelCompany the next question is my shower has 3 walls so I'll be using 2 corner trims, looking at the trims it appears there would be a 10mm gap between where the panel sits and the 2nd wall (essentially the bit where you put the sealant on the back) So on a 1100mm wall would I be correct in saying the total panel width would need to be 1080mm to fit including the trim on either side ?
Hi Jonathan - Yes all of our panels can be installed directly onto a wall surface using a solvent free grab adhesive. The one we sell is called Pink Grip - www.panelcompany.co.uk/collections/adhesive-and-sealant/products/solvent-free-pink-grip-adhesive-c3-size Any further questions please do get in touch.
The trims do offer a tight grip around the panel combined with the sealant holding the board but if you are still worried This is something we would recommend, When you install them into a wet room, We will address this in our next video. as we were fitting into a show Booth we had to avoid it on this occasion as the set was only temporary.
At 1:40 you didn't push down the cladseal strip to compress the sealant, so you had a void at one end of the strip that you then smeared over with sealant. Not very good!
Hi Gilbert - Sealing the bottom of the panels is shown in the video @ 0:27 - named 'installing the cladseal strip. You can either seal the panels using a cladseal strip trim or alternatively you can seal the bottom of the panels using silicone. Any further questions please do get in touch.
Hi Leslie - All of our wall panels a fully waterproof and water tight with their tongue and groove interlocking system, on installation we always recommend a tine bead of silicone inside each join to ensure extra water tightness, any excess that seeps through should be wiped away immediately. You may find these blogs of interest > www.panelcompany.co.uk/blogs/news/a-guide-to-tongue-and-groove-wall-panels www.panelcompany.co.uk/blogs/news/benefits-of-bathroom-wall-paneling
Do you mean the width of the panel ? or the actual face? If you are talking about the face it is made that width to ensure a honey comb construction to make them stiff and insulated. The ridges you are seeing are just our studio light shining through the board, you'll only ever see them when there is light behind the board. Which is almost always just during installation.
Excellent video, didn’t have a clue how to install panels. During the lockdown I couldn’t get any fitters so thought I might as well give it a go. Couldn’t be happier.
THANKS PC TEAM
Glad it helped!
In your video you cut the base trim to fit the shower tray all the way across. My panels will go beyond the width of the tray. How do you fit the shower enclosure with the Cladseal effectively running behind the shower enclosure wall mount at the bottom? Hope that makes sense.
Great video James. I have been advised that the Cladseal strip is only for aesthetic purposes and not necessary when installing your panels. This seems to conflict with what you are saying on the video and the use of the strip would prevent water escaping out of the shower enclosure. Which is correct?
I was very impressed with the video tutorial, however I have a question about the cladseal, if you are going to fit a shower enclosure then the sloped part of the clad seal would prevent it sitting on the tray and up against the wall don't you have to cut away a section so it will fit?
Yes needs to be cut back for shower enclosure
If the panels are to go completely around the bathroom walls, what is the best method of inserting the final panel as it will need to be received by the groove at one side and either a corner trim at the other or the tongue from the panel next to it. I am guessing that it might require the last two panels to be inserted together both initially angled slightly out from the wall until they are pressed flat against the wall?
Correct
Great video. I am fitting this product on a brick wall, should i put plasterboard on first then this? Or can i just put this on, will adhesive stick to brick?
3.45 does the corner trim sit inside the bottom trim? Would of been nice to see a close up of that! Also seen other videos where the corner trim is stuck in place first. Who's right? More explanation needed!
We are working on a more in depth video to discuss this. For reference though the internal corner would sit on the cladseal strip. For maximum waterproofing the clad-seal must be around the entirety of the bath or shower tray.
noticed this installed on osb board, does osb need need any preparation and do you guarantee the adhesive
Would the cladseal interfere with the shower doors? Would i need to cut out some of the cladseal trim to fit the shower doors (within the shower tray) our boards will be going beyond the shower tray too..
The cladseal should finish at the internal of the shower door. The panel should run behind the shower profile. The easiest way to do this is to offer the shower profile up and mark it on the tray and then cut the clad seals to that mark.
Great instructional video, now I can get on with the job..... fingers crossed!
I'm sure you can do it! Let us know how it goes.
👍🏼
do these loose their colour if direct sunlight is on them for a while ? i left some old bits outside and they went a funny brown colour from white
When installing these in a walk in shower with a shower mixer bar do you recommend the bar mixer mounts go beneath or on top of the panel?
We would recommend placing them on top.
It is a very good video, very helpful and the product is first class. I have fitted quite a few of these in the past from other suppliers and recently fitted wall panels from this particular company. I note that in your video you turn the panel over, design side down, when cutting the panel with a panel saw. I found this a bit off, as when cutting with a hand saw, we cut on the down stroke which would, or may, lead to chipping of the underside, which would be the design side in this case. Is it not best to cut with the design side up as I have always done. Or am I missing something? Thanks and keep the videos coming. Cheers
Hi Alistair, In our experience we only cut the face of the panel with a Stanley Blade. In terms of using the saw so long as it is a fine tooth saw, you shouldn't have any issue with chipping. we have found if the saw slips at an angle its possible it would chip the side facing up which is why we have done it this way. However this is most likely a matter of opinion and we would recommend whatever makes the best finish for your self. We will do further testing before our next video and amend this if we need.
I’m loving this panel but can’t find it on your website. What is it called?
Do I have to protect plaster board underneath water proof it
Will it stand up to showering long term though?
Would we install a shower before or after the installion of the panels???
If you have the option providing your pipework is ready, we would install the shower once the paneling is finished so your shower mixer sits flush.
You only show the first panel getting adhesive, I assume that all panels require adhesive and don`t just rely on the interlock?
Hi Andy - Yes you are quite right all panels require adhesive on the back, when it comes to the tongue & groove interlocking system we also suggest a tiny bead of silicone inside the join to ensure extra water tightness (any excess that seeps through to the front of the panel should be wiped off immediately). If you have any further questions please do get in touch.
The Panel Company
Is it me or is that a strange base? Don't they all have lips that extend up that you put the wall in front of so water won't just run off?
Correct James, it's very rare if not impossible to get a tray with a Upstand in the UK, A few cheap plastic trays have them moulded in ,What is used are products like Classiseal or aquastop type seals ,They are a long rubber type strip about 4 or 5 inches high with a bitumen type adhesive along 1 edge about 1 1/2 inches high , Abraid the side of the tray going to the walls ,Stick in on and a bead of sealer applied around the edge , Then when U panel or tile keep them up about 3 mm and seal that to the tray , From what I remember the upstands either cracked or were that thick the wall had to be chilled out ,U can imagine some clown taking a kango to the wall in a block of apartments and taking 1/2 the blocks out ,Belt and braces , Them strips on these video are gimmick decorative U can never reseal them if leaking
Is it possible and safe too put the panels directly on the wood? In case for a bathroom
Hi Laura, our panels can be installed over most existing surfaces. What surface does your bathroom have?
Ive striped the bathroom back to brick, can I install OSB for the walls & panel over it rather than have the plasterer board & skim before paneling? I'd rather do osb walls. Thank you.
Yes that would be absolutely fine, if you wanted to you could even go directly over the brick.
what about cutting round pipes/ shower controls etc?
A major pain, which is why it's not covered. Only the easy bit is shown - they want to sell panels!
What about waterproofing the wall before add the panels? I’m confused because that adhesive that was applied doesn’t seem enough to keep water from seeping in.
Hi Susan, the panels fit together with a tongue and groove system. They are waterproof so water will not seep through.
It seems that you need to cut the corner strip sides at the bottom to correctly interface with the cladseal strip?
You would sit it on top of the cladseal Stephen.
What do you do to cover up the two parts of the wall below the panels as they come off the tray seen in your video at 8:20 I suppose you need to cut the panel around the tray?
Hi Nigel, We are working on another video to outline a few of these questions. As this is just a show booth our intention is to place skirting along the bottom this would cover the gap that you noticed. However for a perfect finish in your own home we would recommend you cut the shape of the shower board out of the panel so it sits flush against the tray and the floor. you can then apply either a silicone and end cap trim or silicone and finish it of with one of our skirting boards. To do this measure the remaining shower-tray before the gap to the floor. Measure the height of your shower tray and then cut this out of the board before installing.
Good video but as with most videos on here there are no shower pipes to work with, so it's not helpful unless You're boarding round a bath
Thanks for the comments, we will address this in our new video.
@@ThePanelCompanyhave you made this video?
@@user-ej4cr9ft7vfollowing
I can see that water can get in between the silver trim and the panel. While it does not leak outside over the wall, this is still a source of limescale deposits and mould growth. I wish there was a sealant placed between the edges of the panel and trim. The sealant can be cleaned or removed if it has the same issue, but that crevice between the trim and panel is not accessible for cleaning.
We do recommend adding silicone in between the trim where it meets the board, you can then wipe it off to offer a water tight seal
Can you do a video of installing them in a living room back wall as on a brick & plaster wall not ply lined ?👍👍
Hi Woz, We will look at getting this video produced thanks for the feedback.
Hi, what is the thickness of the clad seal trim. Would it fit behind a bath tap mixer? Thanks
Hi Craig, we currently sell them in 15mm and 18mm. as they are designed to fit round the bath i'm sure you wont have any issues getting them behind your bath mixer.
How would you recommend fitting when pipework for mixer shower is already there? Would it be a case of measuring where the pipes come out and drilling holes? Or would you joint around pipework?
We would certainly recommend measuring and cutting the panel before installing rather that joining it.
@ThePanelCompany Doesn't answer the question.😢
Hi, what adhesive do you recommend for installation on to shower tanking?
Thanks
Andy
We would recommend a solvent free instant grab adhesive. In our eyes Pink grip is the only way to go with this.
Do you use any silicone inside the internal corner trim before fitting the panels into it?
Hi, If its somewhere where it may receive direct hits from running water, then a thin bead of silicone in the trim will help enforce the water proof ability of the panels and trims!
What a great video and so clearly explained👍
Hi Chris, Thanks for the comment, we love to here customers feedback on videos. If there is anything you would like to see, please do let us know.
@@ThePanelCompany 1. A close up of the corner strip sitting on the cladseal. 2. A close up of the panels at the end of the shower tray - presumably you are cutting out a section to ensure the panel sits on the floor? 3. Making the holes for the shower pipes.
@@thewanderer8 thank you for sharing these video ideas with us! We will be sure to share them with the marketing team.
May I know if I can still install the panels according to the video if my bathroom is not true square (ie the interior corners of the walls are not 90 degree)? Many thanks!
Hi Dominic, Yes you can, we explained this in further detail in our Q&A Video: ua-cam.com/video/1zFTITUnkNc/v-deo.html
Can we fit panels horizontally? I’ve ordered panelling but don’t like the way it will look installing vertically.
Hello guys. If I’m fitting a bath after the wall panels do I still need the clad seal trim?
Hi Tom - No that would not be advisable as the whole cladseal trim would be visible and no panel would be sitting on top of it as it would be behind. Instead we would advise you sealing around the base of the bath with silicone. Any further questions please do get in touch.
The Panel Company.
@@ThePanelCompany that’s what I thought but thought better to double check
Did you cut the panels to the floor at the edge of the tray?
Hi Arthur, yes we did, we would just ensure that the panels will be long enough to go floor to ceiling plus some wastage to ensure you can get the grout lines to match up.
I guess you don't sell this in the u.s
Those end caps looked neat ??????
Silicone - sealant? Or adhesive?
I take it every panel has adhesive on underside lol
I have horrible wet wall installed on a rental property, can I fit your product directly on top?
Hi Angela - Yes you can using silicone as the adhesive, you would just need to make sure that your existing wet wall was fully cleaned down and clear of any residue (we recommend sugar soap), this ensures that the panels and adhesive can form a good bond with the existing surface. Any further questions get in touch!
As a fitter I’m aware that it is a British standard guideline to waterproof membrane a shower enclosure. Does that apply when using these boards? Thanks, Rob.
Hi Rob - Yes it does however this is entirely down the fitters personal discretion whether to do this or not when installing panels. Some of our fitters that buy from us choose not to do this as the panels are fully watertight and when installed properly no water gets through the panels at all.
Very professional video! I have a couple of questions. Is it crucial that the clade seal strip and internal corner trim are used? or can you butt the panels together in the corner and to the shower tray as long as you use plenty of sealant, and if the cubicle is constructed of wedi board and well tanked to prevent ingress of water.
It's just that the trims make the overall look, less attractive.
Many thanks for the video.
Hi, You can certainly do what you mentioned, in fact a lot of our traders do this. One thing i would still use though is the clad-seal this will make sure direct water doesn't get behind your shower tray.
@Panel Company wow thanks for getting back so quickly. Unfortunately I can't get a shower tray the size I need for an ensuite, so I will have have to construct one with wedi board so it will be a completely tanked enclosure belt and braces kind of job. When I come to do the job I think I will leave the clad seal strip out and just make sure the base and corners are well and truly taped and tanked and then plenty of sealant at the base and corners of the panels as I fit them.
Thanks once again!
Awkward shaped room - Is there any reason why the panels cant be fitted horizontally
Hello! I asked a bathroom fitter about installing panels and the said he doesn’t recommend it because there were too many boxes around pipes and how the wall would tanking and membrane treatment - is that true?
I install these regularly and have no issues
These Panels will be fine for that too. However if you do have a lot of boxing in with various external corners. It may be easier for you to use a smaller board such as a 250mm board to make them easier to cut.
Can you cut a panel in half (length) and fit without problems?
Hi - Yes all of our wall panels can be cut to size using a fine tooth hand saw or a sharp stanley knife - please see our cutting guide below -
www.panelcompany.co.uk/pages/how-to-cut-pvc-wall-panels
Hack saw cuts a finer cut rather then a wood saw
They will yes, though you can still get a perfect cut with either.
Can you install directly onto bare plasterboard?
Hi - Yes when installing directly onto plaster board we recommend a solvent free adhesive, the one we recommend is called pink grip. This is an instant grab adhesive, and we advise for the adhesive to be applied onto the back of the panel in a zig zag manner prior to sticking to the plaster board. Any further questions please do get in touch.
Thank you but first find a higher bench to work on my back is bad watching yu. Have a great day !! -;).
Hi - can you use these boards directly over existing bathroom tiles? thanks
Hi Neil - Yes all of our panels can be installed over existing tiles using silicone as the adhesive. Prior to installation we always recommend that tiles are fully cleaned down and clear of any residue (we recommend sugar soap) this ensures that the panels and adhesive can form a good bond with the existing tiles. Any further questions please do get in touch.
My shower is 1100mm would you recommend using a full panel with a 100mm strip or cutting 2 panels to 550mm for this space?
I'm also lazy and need to build out from the wall to avoid some pipes, would I need to add plywood/plasterboard onto the batens or can I just attach the panels onto them as the 10mm panels seem quite sturdy ...
Hi Dominic, In regards to filling the 1100mm space. It would be a personal choice, I would recommend two boards cut to 550mm, as this would make the pattern of some of the shower panels fit seamlessly in the shower area. However, depending on your price range we do also sell a selection of 1200mm Boards these are in the form of a pack of 2x 600mm boards (www.panelcompany.co.uk/collections/shower-panels/width_600mm) Our Shower Wall Range also have a wide range of 1200 wide boards. (www.panelcompany.co.uk/collections/showerwall). This means you would just have to slice 100mm. In regards to the wall extension as long as the battens are close together enough that you can get a good bond with the panel, that will be fine.
@@ThePanelCompany thanks for the very quick reply, I've already got the panels so 2 cuts of 550mm it is.
@@ThePanelCompany the next question is my shower has 3 walls so I'll be using 2 corner trims, looking at the trims it appears there would be a 10mm gap between where the panel sits and the 2nd wall (essentially the bit where you put the sealant on the back)
So on a 1100mm wall would I be correct in saying the total panel width would need to be 1080mm to fit including the trim on either side ?
How string are these hollow panels? Are they strong enough for hinging a bg shower head or will they push in if tightened bit to much ?
Can they be intalled directly to wall??
Hi Jonathan - Yes all of our panels can be installed directly onto a wall surface using a solvent free grab adhesive. The one we sell is called Pink Grip - www.panelcompany.co.uk/collections/adhesive-and-sealant/products/solvent-free-pink-grip-adhesive-c3-size
Any further questions please do get in touch.
Where can I get the panels that are shown in the video?
Hi Durin - Please see our main website | www.panelcompany.co.uk
I would of put silicone into the corner trim before installing the panels
The trims do offer a tight grip around the panel combined with the sealant holding the board but if you are still worried This is something we would recommend, When you install them into a wet room, We will address this in our next video. as we were fitting into a show Booth we had to avoid it on this occasion as the set was only temporary.
At 1:40 you didn't push down the cladseal strip to compress the sealant, so you had a void at one end of the strip that you then smeared over with sealant. Not very good!
Isn't he a sparks?
Not from what we know, he's our operations manager!
Nothing about sealing the bottom of the panels?
Hi Gilbert - Sealing the bottom of the panels is shown in the video @ 0:27 - named 'installing the cladseal strip. You can either seal the panels using a cladseal strip trim or alternatively you can seal the bottom of the panels using silicone. Any further questions please do get in touch.
I wish I could have shown this to the clown who fitted mine!
Sorry to hear this!
Don’t believe those joints are waterproof
Hi Leslie - All of our wall panels a fully waterproof and water tight with their tongue and groove interlocking system, on installation we always recommend a tine bead of silicone inside each join to ensure extra water tightness, any excess that seeps through should be wiped away immediately. You may find these blogs of interest >
www.panelcompany.co.uk/blogs/news/a-guide-to-tongue-and-groove-wall-panels
www.panelcompany.co.uk/blogs/news/benefits-of-bathroom-wall-paneling
Why don't they make them with a thicker face so you don't get that horrible ridging along the face ? beats me
Do you mean the width of the panel ? or the actual face? If you are talking about the face it is made that width to ensure a honey comb construction to make them stiff and insulated. The ridges you are seeing are just our studio light shining through the board, you'll only ever see them when there is light behind the board. Which is almost always just during installation.
Lmao why not a circ saw
Fook tiles