Incredible work Steve! That feeling when you turn the Super Famicom on and that sweet sweet signal displays in all its glory! Pat yourself on the back for this one!
Man, I had that exact model of CRT before I lost it in a house fire just over a year ago. If I could get another TV like it then I would love to do a mod like this to it
18:40 So these Toshiba sets, (not just the AFs) made by Orion from 2003-2005 use a Renesas jungle chip that has shifted chroma over component. That is the artifact you are seeing, with the reds and blues not lining up. (Also, reds are over-saturated too, aka red-push.) The Orion-shiba sets from 2006-2007 use a Sanyo jungle chip that looks even worse, and it can't be RGB modded at all.
For TVs with component input, it is better using those as the RGB inputs and set the blanking to the right voltage. Even the video circuit shows that component inputs will act as RGB input when set up correctly. For a TV that I have, I've used the component inputs, then set the TV to AV2, when blanking with the correct voltage, it accepts the RGB signal. Each set is different, so the service manual can be checked to make sure this can be done.
In the future consider soldering sync to SVIDEO instead. I believe this bypasses the composite comb filter and as a result the picture will not shift to the left as much. It will still shifted, but a lot less. The downside to this is you may need to plug in a 'dummy' SVIDEO cable so that the TV goes into SVIDEO mode. A $2 unpopulated SVIDEO plug will achieve this. Also the 240p test suite has a left and right audio test which you should always check when performing these RGB mods. Some sets, specifically Sonys, require both audio RCA inputs to be populated or it will not activate stereo and so audio will be in mono. If you run into this scenario, then you will need to connect dummy RCA plugs into both L & R inputs which will forces the TV to activate stereo.
WOW! It really does Steve. That's amazing!! I never thought much about it until seeing this video. You really opened my eyes brother man. 8^) Anthony..
Funnily enough, this could theoretically help with some European CRTs as well. My Beovision Avant from 1996 has some image processing going on (It's widescreen but NOT a 100hz model) even though I feed it RGB through scart. The main problem is that it has a similar red push which is a bit annoying but it's definitely not as bad as with this Toshiba (it also has scan velocity modulation but that I was able to disable by removing a cable from the neckboard. Overall the picture is pretty amazing so I'm not too bothered with the processing). I'm sure there's a lot of European sets with similar image processing even though we are able to feed them RGB through scart. RGB modding a RGB capable CRT would probably be an overkill but I wouldn't be surprised if someone in this hobby is gonna look into it some day.
Recently got a roadside 24AF44 for free (luckiest day of my life), really love the picture through component as it’s worlds better than anything I ever could’ve imagined as a kid. However the reds/“red push” were very noticeable and annoying, adjusting the CR DL setting in the service menu seemed to help align the reds quite a bit, not perfectly though.
Hawt dang! Talk about timing! I've just opened a 27AFX54 to recap and was wondering about converting it to RGB...unfortunately Sunthar is backorder on his mux kits 😟 I guess I'll have to download the gerber files and get it printed by PCBWay or something.
Hi Steve, phenomenal work, congratulations, do you have any experience with this board, which is being sold on aliexpress (CRT color TV changed to RGBS Color monitor monitoring and modification RGBS module Arcade Game Part ) I can't find anything about its installation and operation
Steve, the dielectric grease should be kept away from the anode hole (and the inner rim). It's purpose is to form a seal where the rubber cap touches the glass. I'm hoping your viewers won't take example on how it looks at 0:58, because that's definitely the wrong way to use the grease. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, I was actually just doing some experimenting with the dielectric grease on this one. I was playing around seeing if adding a ton had any effect on the screen or discharge. Surprisingly, I saw no difference and had no difference on the TV for performance and it didn't effect the discharge any. Just playing around, breaking all the rules to see what happens, 😆. This is not a discharge guide or a dielectric grease guide, but I still didn't see any changes with using the absurd amount of grease in this shot. Thanks for pointing that out.
You can get better results by skipping the Dremel entirely. Drill a few holes in the center (I'd say about 3?) and do everything else by hand with the file. It will just take longer.
I made some restoration on some old Amiga 1081, common issue is reflowling heavy components.. Anyway. I need to discharge those monitors like 2-3 times.. With 5 minutes in between to completely empty the juice in that.. Does that missing a bleed component or why does it behave like that?
Component is also known as “Y Pb Pr”, which is a different colorspace than RGB. Y is “Luma”, which is basically black and white TV. Pb and Pr are used to calculate the color information, but not as simply as combining colors like RGB
Thanks for checking out this video!!! This kit really does work wonders on this CRT.
Incredible work Steve! That feeling when you turn the Super Famicom on and that sweet sweet signal displays in all its glory! Pat yourself on the back for this one!
@@_BELMONT_ thanks buddy!
Man, I had that exact model of CRT before I lost it in a house fire just over a year ago. If I could get another TV like it then I would love to do a mod like this to it
18:40 So these Toshiba sets, (not just the AFs) made by Orion from 2003-2005 use a Renesas jungle chip that has shifted chroma over component. That is the artifact you are seeing, with the reds and blues not lining up. (Also, reds are over-saturated too, aka red-push.) The Orion-shiba sets from 2006-2007 use a Sanyo jungle chip that looks even worse, and it can't be RGB modded at all.
Great info!
Bold title. Came here to see what all the hot fuss was about. I wasn't disappointed.
For TVs with component input, it is better using those as the RGB inputs and set the blanking to the right voltage. Even the video circuit shows that component inputs will act as RGB input when set up correctly. For a TV that I have, I've used the component inputs, then set the TV to AV2, when blanking with the correct voltage, it accepts the RGB signal. Each set is different, so the service manual can be checked to make sure this can be done.
Great video Steve! (taking notes)
Thanks buddy!
In the future consider soldering sync to SVIDEO instead. I believe this bypasses the composite comb filter and as a result the picture will not shift to the left as much. It will still shifted, but a lot less. The downside to this is you may need to plug in a 'dummy' SVIDEO cable so that the TV goes into SVIDEO mode. A $2 unpopulated SVIDEO plug will achieve this.
Also the 240p test suite has a left and right audio test which you should always check when performing these RGB mods. Some sets, specifically Sonys, require both audio RCA inputs to be populated or it will not activate stereo and so audio will be in mono. If you run into this scenario, then you will need to connect dummy RCA plugs into both L & R inputs which will forces the TV to activate stereo.
Thanks Mark. I'll definitely go for sync on Luma next time I do a mod on a svideo TV.
First comment! I'm getting a Toshiba given to me, found in an attic of a home that someone I know just purchased!
WOW! It really does Steve. That's amazing!! I never thought much about it until seeing this video. You really opened my eyes brother man. 8^)
Anthony..
@@Charlie-Cat. thanks Anthony!
Funnily enough, this could theoretically help with some European CRTs as well. My Beovision Avant from 1996 has some image processing going on (It's widescreen but NOT a 100hz model) even though I feed it RGB through scart. The main problem is that it has a similar red push which is a bit annoying but it's definitely not as bad as with this Toshiba (it also has scan velocity modulation but that I was able to disable by removing a cable from the neckboard. Overall the picture is pretty amazing so I'm not too bothered with the processing). I'm sure there's a lot of European sets with similar image processing even though we are able to feed them RGB through scart. RGB modding a RGB capable CRT would probably be an overkill but I wouldn't be surprised if someone in this hobby is gonna look into it some day.
Well well well. Look at your Dukes. Runnin' wild against UNC.
@@reallygoodolddays it was a historic day for the Dukes!
Recently got a roadside 24AF44 for free (luckiest day of my life), really love the picture through component as it’s worlds better than anything I ever could’ve imagined as a kid. However the reds/“red push” were very noticeable and annoying, adjusting the CR DL setting in the service menu seemed to help align the reds quite a bit, not perfectly though.
Hawt dang! Talk about timing! I've just opened a 27AFX54 to recap and was wondering about converting it to RGB...unfortunately Sunthar is backorder on his mux kits 😟 I guess I'll have to download the gerber files and get it printed by PCBWay or something.
Maybe RGB is better, but all my 6th gen consoles I’d like to use had component. Its a balance of quality and convenience for me
Hi Steve, phenomenal work, congratulations, do you have any experience with this board, which is being sold on aliexpress (CRT color TV changed to RGBS Color monitor monitoring and modification RGBS module Arcade Game Part ) I can't find anything about its installation and operation
Shout outs to the S-Video is "the only limit you need" people
I believe the 1000 resistors only dictate how bright the OSD stays, not the picture. I might be wrong tho
Interesting to see that picture distortion on the component signal. How was the S-video on that set?
Steve, the dielectric grease should be kept away from the anode hole (and the inner rim). It's purpose is to form a seal where the rubber cap touches the glass. I'm hoping your viewers won't take example on how it looks at 0:58, because that's definitely the wrong way to use the grease. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, I was actually just doing some experimenting with the dielectric grease on this one. I was playing around seeing if adding a ton had any effect on the screen or discharge. Surprisingly, I saw no difference and had no difference on the TV for performance and it didn't effect the discharge any. Just playing around, breaking all the rules to see what happens, 😆. This is not a discharge guide or a dielectric grease guide, but I still didn't see any changes with using the absurd amount of grease in this shot. Thanks for pointing that out.
Good interesting video
@@ezequielramirez203 thank you
You can get better results by skipping the Dremel entirely. Drill a few holes in the center (I'd say about 3?) and do everything else by hand with the file. It will just take longer.
For someone looking to get into working with CRTs what would are some good resources to learn about them.
I made some restoration on some old Amiga 1081, common issue is reflowling heavy components.. Anyway. I need to discharge those monitors like 2-3 times.. With 5 minutes in between to completely empty the juice in that.. Does that missing a bleed component or why does it behave like that?
Nice job! I have a Toshiba 27A33 and it doesn't have this issue. Personally, I am not a fan of SCART connectors though. Yuck! 🙂
Sorry if I missed it, but can you still use component with this mod? I have a 14AF45 and 20AF43
It is easier to convert a CRT TV to RGB than converting to a component?
Does this kit let you convert a RGBI input to analog RGB? I have a 10" JVC set that only has RGBI that is internally converted to analog rgb.
Got a samsung txk2066 and the jungle chip has 2 rgb inputs according its datasheet. Seems able to but sadly the site doesnt to have it listed.
way too cool
im at the start of the video, but I'm confused - component is RGB. red, green, blue, plus left and right?
Component is also known as “Y Pb Pr”, which is a different colorspace than RGB.
Y is “Luma”, which is basically black and white TV. Pb and Pr are used to calculate the color information, but not as simply as combining colors like RGB
If you want to learn more about YPbPr, there are several good videos on youtube talking about the topic.
Se le puede aplicar ese mod a un monitor PC de los viejitos 2002🧐
What an annoying looking PCB, the traces and print make it quite difficult to spot solder bridges.
It isn’t. Component does HD. RGB does not.
What isnt?
The title of the video…