Which Capacitor is best and which to chose for replacement | CRT cap kits
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Do you need to make a capacitor kit for your retro device? If you want to preserve an old CRT television or monitor, you will consider changing the electrolytic capacitors. After years of use, these caps will dry out and fail to function. Worse yet they can explode or leak out the fishy smelling fluid inside and damage vital parts of your rare electronic. This is a cheap and easy way to make your own cap kit and preserve that device for another 30 years of life!
Part 1: • How to make your own C...
For more info on repairs, advice or support please visit: / retrotechusa
#retrotech #retrogaming #restoration
Good to have this information since we're now in the age where the individual is responsible for maintaining CRTs. Just recapped my GK Board (power) on my FV310 and plan on doing the rest.
Thank you so much for all this content Steve! I finally feel totally comfortable recapping my deflection board on my 14L5. Your work with all this free education on this subject is really amazing! Thanks again!
Helpful to see this Steve. I just thought as long as it works, that's the most concern. But never looked deep into thought regarding this topic bro. Nice call for sure. 8^)
Anthony...
If you want even longer life capacitors, go with 125c, 135c, or 155c Nichicon caps. Every 10 degrees higher the temperature rating, the capacitor lifetime is 2x as long. For example, a 155c Nichicon that has a 1000 hour life expectancy at 155c will have a 32,000 hour life at 105c. Most caps in CRTs are used under 65c. So a 155c cap with 1000 hour life used at 65c will last for 65 years of continuous, always on use. Most people use a CRT less than 12 hours per day so the cap will last 130 years.
Exactly what I needed. Your channel has been very helpful in trying to revive my KV-27v36 Trinitron. Unit isn't getting any power, main problem appears to be the PSU/GBoard. Seems to be about half the caps on the G board are bad, so I'm going to do a full cap replacement of all 10 and hope for the best. First time doing anything like this so fingers crossed!
I am currently looking to do the same thing, for the same unit. Any tips over a year later?
THANK YOU, I've been putting off ordering for fear of ordering the wrong thing
Incredibly helpful. Thank you! 🖖🏼
Good info. My cart full of elect. caps for my Sony 27” is totaling to almost $100 with shipping! 😬
This stuff really helps out a lot, I'm currently trying to recap a few consumer sets to build up my experience so I can eventually work on my PVM, all these videos are amazing and help out so much! Cheers!
-Same capacitance
-Same or higher voltage
-Low ESR
-105 C or better temperature rating
Is it normal to annotate microfarads as MF as opposed to µF? I would assume MF to mean millifarads just as MM is millimeter and ML is millilitre. Seems broken to me.
FLUX CAPACITOR!!!
Now we just need to move these at 88 mph.
@@badreality2 1.21 Gigawatts!!!
GREAT SCOTT!!!
Very helpful. Thank you! I have a basement full of CRT’s and you’re allowing me to slowly gain the courage to work on one.
Dont know if you guys gives a damn but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all of the new movies on Instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my girlfriend for the last few days :)
@Jaxxon Leighton yea, have been watching on Instaflixxer for months myself :D
Thanks Steve, been considering re-capping my 20M2MD. You've just motivated me to start shopping for caps.
Hi, I have the same model. did you re-cap in the end.
@@ph1llyg24 I've bought a cap kit from savon pat, just havn't gotten around to recapping it yet.
It's these kinds of videos that are invaluable for us enthusiast trying to restore and preserve CRTs. Thanks for what you do for the community Steve.
The service manual for my Daewoo TV has cap specs in this format: 16V RSS 47MF (5X11) TP
I'm just curious about the 5X11 part (is it the size of the cap?) and what does TP stand for?
For BVMs and PVMs just use UCY for primary psu section and ABL line and UHE or UHV (The slimner) for the rest.. If you want replace The big filter one then go for LGR or LGZ this should be performed on all old models like pvm 2130, 2730 and so on
Assuming you don't have a service manual, or are replacing caps in a different device (for example, game console PSUs, boards etc) is there a recommended tolerance % to shoot for as a minimum?
Hey, a cap that I needed didn't have 5000 hours to stay within the same brand Nichicon. Should I pick the Nichicon for 2000 or another brand with 5000+?
What method are you using to test capacitors both in-line and when theyre removed?
Low impotence. 😂 Impeeeedence.
Low impotence is likely a good trait too :)
Awesome video! Great advice. Any thoughts on putting together a kit when you don't have access to service manual? Any gotchas, things to watch out for?
What are some of the signs that the caps need to be replaced? Would slightly wavy image be one of them?
Could be. Generally if a tv is older than 20 years and was regularly used replacement is advisable in critical areas like video, power and deflection boards
Hey i want to ask you something, i have a crt tv panasonic ct20r15w 1998 so, the problem is that is look dark right, i use the brightness in 50, i adjusted the screen in the flyback, so i have more brightness and don't need to use the brightness in 100, but something that i can't understand is why the black areas looks gray instead of black when i use the brightness in 50, and when i lower the britghtness the black areas looks a little bit green, when the brightness is in 20 the black areas looks black but i can't see too much, in games like Xenogears ps1, where i'm in a cave, i can't see well, or even vagrant story. that start in a dark place, i can't much, and the same happen when i have brightness in 50, the black areas looks gray but i can't see the colors.
You didn't filter on lead pitch and you ruled out the slightly higher temperatures. Greatest piece of advuce is stick to vendors like these which for the most part only have good brands and NEVER ever buy from the eBay tat market. Some vendors sell a whole spectrum of brands including Panasonic, Nichicon, Rubycon, Cornell Dubillier (which are red !) but also their own brands. Others like CPC have decent brands but only the cheapest nastiest range and cater for electricians and plumbers basically. Not worth your time
Steve, is there a repository site you can post that I can add a cap Kit too. I’m doing a full electrolytic cap changeout on a JVC i’Art and I’d like to add a Kit to it to save some people a lot of energy if possible. I will be re-capping and writing up kits for 3 different model D-Series JVC’s and 2 different model i’Art series JVC’s.
Thanks Steve,
Adam
Hey Steve, love watching your videos man, very informative thank you very much.
Have a special request. Have you ever covered the breakdown on how to choose a replacement Flyback for CRT monitors and where to find them? I’ve replaced flybacks on old arcade CRT’s like on the Wells Gardner line but those are readily available from arcade repair boutiques and can usually be found in kits ..... I’m into replacing the caps on my old commercial grade retro gaming CRT’s now at this point but I’m worried about the longevity and failure of my flybacks in the future ........ any suggestions? Or would you ever consider doing a video as a follow up to this one?
Thanks Retro,
Adam
I was actually in the middle of scratching my head trying to order capacitors correctly and this video popped up today! Thanks Steve!!!
When u said mini size isn't it ok to adapt the capacitor legs to fit correctly ? Does it affect any of the capacitor characteristics ?
Judging by that hat you're a local boy!!!!
Can you use tantalum capacitors instead?
Hey any experience or suggestion when replacing film caps? I think I shorted or something my 2130QM and now is not powering on and the only one I can see as damaged is the C621 in the power board. Thanks!
C621 should be tested before replace since those caps appear in bad shape due to The heat but most of The tines are just ok, on 2130qm first of all reflow all soder joints near The ptc ant pay atention at all dry solder..
@@francescopaolella7533 Took the power board to a tech and can confirm what you are saying, C621 works fine no replacement required. Some resistors and other components were replaced (no elec caps) and now the PVM is back to life.
@@marianobellver1306 may I know what You have replaced?
@@francescopaolella7533 Yes: R601, THP601, THP602, Q602. Also some new soder in the FC board (FC1 and FC2), and also around the C621 cap. C621 was cleaned and insulated again with new silicone.