I have only found one other video explaining this. I finally made my setup about a month ago and still making adjustments. If you have hard water this is the only real cost effective way
I want to learn your time management system. Where the hell do you find all the time to do what you do? I love that you keep putting out videos. You’re one productive animal.
I literally waste time all day and feel like I don’t do enough. I guess because I enjoy what I am doing. I do think soon my time will be taken up by yard work and it will get a little stressful.
I’ve been looking into it they almost have enough flow for a Ryobi type pressure washer. Depend on the water though how much flow of clean water you will have.
I use to grow pot plants for over ten years and played with R/O systems. Had about 5 Seems like too fast a flow rate on clean side. I’d go for a 2 membrane. 5 pre stage filter. And then you can add a pump forgot what it’s called that regulates pressure into the membrane for steady pressure that runs off the waste water side. Also the longer you run the system the better for it. So let it run the tank dry then refill. Don’t let it keep turning on and off quick. Also they have float valves where you just add a on off valve before the float ( into the white tank ) and will work wonders not having to babysit it. With those tips you’d get 0PPM clean water out. With a pre spike of 5-10ppm for a minute I have to resort back to RO as Hawaii water here is 250ppm and I suspect something else in water as a huge resin system will get me 8 washes before it goes over 10 ppm…… so like $20 a wash for car here with super clean water using a resin system.
That’s some great information. I won’t really be using the RO system mainly hot it to show as an option for those with high tds water. My 50 ppm using DI Resin works well enough for me. I wanted to show a cheaper version the multiple membrane and 5 stage pre-filter systems were more expensive and wanted to keep it less complicated. If anybody is looking to do RO I think your comment will help them out greatly. Thank you for contributing to the comment section!
I am new to car detailing, I was really into it years ago and I just got back in. I purchased a system and have been doing some research, and your thoughts and opinions are appreciated. To get to the point it seems like chlorine is probably the worst factor for resin deionization. I am certain there are other things, but that seems to be one of the key things that depletes the properties of the resin. I just got my set up, and to help alleviate some of these issues I just did my own DIY two stage carbon filtration prior to hitting the resin tanks. I am getting a bit a flow penalty but I would rather have that then anything else. I am certain it makes no difference on which filter you use, but I decided to go with the clear2o carbon filters. My water seems to be in the low 300's ppm, and I am going to test and see how long this will last. I am not a professional detailer, so it's going to take a long time to reach my test study but I am giving it a shot for 60 dollars in hopes my 350 dollar duel bed system may last a bit longer. Second to that, I think people need to see if the company provides data on the water output, which also will play a role on the purity. I believe the highest grade purifiers/deionizers are in the 18Kohm region. Please excuse my ignorance if any of this sounds off, but the system I bought is shooting out 15 Kohm on the duel bed system alone. Guessing this will be a factor as well, or a topic that maybe overlooked. Currently I am using the two carbon filters feeding into my duel bed system and out to the vehicle and after running water through it is a 0 ppm. Lets see how long this will last. Clearly if the water is too restricted you may want to just use one instead of two carbon filters.
I run a pre filter system as well using 2 carbon filters one for chlorine and the other for chloramine, but the system I am using doesn’t limit flow with the carbon. I use it with my regular water to help stop chlorine build up on my fittings. Out of my cr spotless it’s max is 2.5 GPM which would be. I am not sure how to convert Kohm to gallons though. You have the right setup flow restriction is always the hardest part to figure out. Usually a carbon setup would flow faster than the deionization, but depends on the housing as some have built in restrictors and some filters slow flow down. The bigger the filter and housing the more flow you are going to get.
Is there something special about it that made you recommend the Liquigen RO? What features should I look for in other RO's to make them suitable alternatives to the Liquigen? I'm about to pull the trigger on an RO to extend the life of my DI. Thanks for your content. I'm learning a lot!
Price point, accessories included for hose connections, GPD and reviews were what drew me to it. Most all these systems are the same the biggest factor in your decision is how many gallons per day do you want. They range from 50 GPD to Hundreds. Usually price goes up the more GPD you need.
This would be for those with really bad water who would go through resin so fast it’s just would cost too much. I would say anything over 400ppm should be looking into this type of setup. You could also run this if your water is great if you don’t mind storing water your resin life couple double, triple or even more. Only issue is you will have wasted water usually 2 to 3 gallons of waste water for every gallon of clean water. Some just feed into their house drain and some do store that as well to be used for water around the property. Say for example me at 60ppm I was able to get well under 10ppm so my resin would at least double in life and my Easter water was about 100ppm so still good enough to be used to water plants, etc.
i'm actually testing out a 1.6 gal water distiller at the moment. In theory it should be a good way to get very low ppm water from harder water as I live in SoCal. Perhaps you can test one out yourself for a future video?
I have looked at them, but most of them are too slow and would take several days and some a week to get enough to wash a car. Distilled should be very close to 0ppm. No solids will lift into the condensation only H20.
@@CarsWithKeav So far I do like the distiller. I like the plug-n-play process for it. I wash my car bi-weekly I should have plenty of water to work with by then. I plan to use it for that final rinse or just mix it with my rinseless wash sprayers. Also I would use it for mixing products for my spray bottles. My hardass water (400-500ppm) to 1-2ppm is pretty nice to see.
Have you tried connecting the output to a pressure washer? Just curious if there would be any delay between the small water pump and output from a pressure washer like the active 2.0, and if a pressure tank between the 2 would be necessary.
The pump I use I have tested at 3.5gpm consistent and have run my active 2.0 and an Ar630TSS with it for several washes and works great and that’s at more than 2gpm. I was running it through my cr spotless system to make sure it was full 0 ppm and it runs at 2.5gpm. No problems using the pressure washer there either.
I was looking up spotless water booster and saw how he is using RO to extend his DI resin. I wonder how long the RO items last and cost to maintain. Just curious what you would do if you wanted to run that through your pressure washer for a rinse? Thanks!
Most would store the water then pump it or gravity feed to the pressure washer. The suds and go UA-cam channel owner built a cool system he says can do 2gpm which is crazy good I have also seen some higher end RO systems that can do that as well. That would do most of the cheaper pressure washers. Always depends on the water worse the water more waste water you will have. RO membranes usually last at least a year or even years if the water is good. It is way more cost effective than DI resin just have to deal with the waste water.
I have a 110 gallon low pro tank under a bed cover, I would like to add a pump and a water drop mini in order to feed my active 2.0. Any suggestions on pumps/ how to get pressure down enough to feed the water drop mini? I haven’t seen anyone do this on a mobile truck bed low pro set up. Your advice would be greatly appreciated thank you!
The pump in this video would do well more than enough flow for the filter and Active 2.0. That’s the limit of my expertise in mobile detail setups I lack knowledge there, but learning more as I go along.
Have you seen the chemical metering solution from Meguiars? I want one but theyre too expensive, have you seen a system like that one but cheaper? Or maybe DIY?
Just looked you would have to. E doing some high volume to justify that cost not to mention all the supplies needed to built everything else out. I mean the cheapest way is metering tips. That is what most automated car washes use. Restricts the amount of soap that can be fed through giving you different dilutions.
I've been thinking about installing an RO system in my house for drinking water. I have to go to the store all the time to fill my 5 gallon jugs for my water dispenser and it's really annoying.
I was looking into getting a set up like this but i dont want to produce that much waste water. We are always in a drought and it almost never rains where i live. Is there anything you can do with the waste water? It would be cool if i could use it to water my lawn or something. Im probably going to get a dual bed di system, it seams to be the most cost effective if you look at price per gallon of di water. I have 325ppi water.
Waste water can be used for a few things like watering plants, toilet drain water, and sometimes washing clothes. Problem is you have to know what’s in your waste water, the quality of it among other things before even attempting any of them. Certain levels is bad for fabric and can harm plants. I myself would not any of them either the waste water. It’s hard to use which is why it’s called waste. It’s the worst part of RO systems. Most under the sink systems send the waste water down the drain.
@@CarsWithKeav thanks. I will go with the Adams dual bed system and build a diy bypass using your video. Thanks so much for all this research. I don't have the time and money to experiment and you saved me a ton of time and money. Appreciate it.
@@s2kologist That DI system will work getting used to how much you will use and how often to refill will be the learning curve. Since it’s dual bed and separated you could recharge the resin as well using chemicals. I’ve not learned that part yet, but want to try it some day. Good luck if you have any questions feel free to reach out on Instagram or Facebook DM’s. I think Adam’s has a built in bypass top you can get for those tanks as well.
Remember the waste water is only what was in your source water, minus whatever the pre-filter stages collected - so it is actually pretty good water. It will have slightly higher concentration of minerals than the source water. If you have 3:1 waste:product, and 100% removal, your waste water will have 33% more minerals. In practice you won't get 100% removal, so less than 33% more minerals. With my about 200ppm source water I get about 390ppm waste water and I have zero concern about using it on plants or anywhere the minerals don't matter - i.e. I wouldn't wash the car or windows with it, but I could drink it (but I have the R.O. for drinking so why would I?). By the way, the actual name for the waste is "concentrate" because it concentrates the minerals, and the product water is "permeate" because it is what "permeates" thru the membrane. When using R.O. to concentrate maple sap to make maple syrup, the "concentrate" is the product, and the "permeate" is the waste. 😁 There are ways to significantly reduce the "concentrate" waste: 1. use 70psi to 80psi source water, some membranes are okay even higher -- higher pressure, less waste, from 40psi to 80psi is about 50% more output, e.g. 3:1.5 or 2:1 2. keep source water temperature 70F to 80F, but don't do hot, membranes don't like too warm -- warmer, less waste, a few percent more output 3. stage concentrate by add a membrane, concentrate from the first membrane as input to the second, combine the permeate from both as product water -- slightly worse since the second membrane is starting with slightly worse input water I get 1:1 output, or even 5% or so better when the feed water is about 70F. My R.O. system has a booster pump on the input to keep about 80psi. The feed water temperature is seldom as warm as 70F. I have staged concentrate. My source water varies from about 180ppm to 210ppm and the combined output is 6ppm to 8ppm after 30 minutes of operation (gets better the more often and the longer it is run - the initial output after being idle is never great).
@@Sylvan_dB This is some really great info and appreciate this. Hopefully it helps more people in the comments. I’m just learning all this stuff. Just have heard some issue some have had with plants not being healthy when watered with the concentrate and staining clothes when using to wash them. I think it all depends on the concentrate like you said. Mine at 100ppm really isn’t bad like you said a lot of the bad stuff was taken care of by the filters. Depending on water source the concentrate could have elevated levels of lead, mercury, etc.?
I don’t think you need a CR Spotless. A tank style or even the Waterdrop would be a good alternative that is much cheaper. CR Spotless is nice just most don’t like the $400 price tag.
Always have a great video that is full of great information. I was dying when you kept looking at the camera to see if you had focused 😂 love the bloopers!! I can only imagine what your water bill is like 😮😆
I have only found one other video explaining this. I finally made my setup about a month ago and still making adjustments. If you have hard water this is the only real cost effective way
Hope your setup works out once you get it dialed in.
I want to learn your time management system. Where the hell do you find all the time to do what you do? I love that you keep putting out videos. You’re one productive animal.
We need a video on that!! Hahaha
I literally waste time all day and feel like I don’t do enough. I guess because I enjoy what I am doing. I do think soon my time will be taken up by yard work and it will get a little stressful.
It’s called get off Tik Tok, film and edit instead. 🤣
Ohhhh yes time to get that lawn dialed in, my guy! @@CarsWithKeav
@@ScottKelley I’ve got bags and bags of fertilizer, pre-emergent, dirt booster and Humichar ready to go. First scalp time coming soon.
I really felt that last deep inhale in the bloopers 😆 great video! I’ve been wondering when you would make a storage RO video, so this is perfect
Sometimes I just ahead of myself and need to slow down a little. Deep breath helps a lot.
Would be great to see a DIY 4040 RO system reviewed. I think this is the way we are going. TDS is 600.
I’ve been looking into it they almost have enough flow for a Ryobi type pressure washer. Depend on the water though how much flow of clean water you will have.
Superb and that's what I have at home.
Love always your bloopers 😜
How is yours working for you?
I use to grow pot plants for over ten years and played with R/O systems. Had about 5
Seems like too fast a flow rate on clean side. I’d go for a 2 membrane. 5 pre stage filter. And then you can add a pump forgot what it’s called that regulates pressure into the membrane for steady pressure that runs off the waste water side.
Also the longer you run the system the better for it. So let it run the tank dry then refill. Don’t let it keep turning on and off quick.
Also they have float valves where you just add a on off valve before the float ( into the white tank ) and will work wonders not having to babysit it.
With those tips you’d get 0PPM clean water out. With a pre spike of 5-10ppm for a minute
I have to resort back to RO as Hawaii water here is 250ppm and I suspect something else in water as a huge resin system will get me 8 washes before it goes over 10 ppm…… so like $20 a wash for car here with super clean water using a resin system.
That’s some great information. I won’t really be using the RO system mainly hot it to show as an option for those with high tds water. My 50 ppm using DI Resin works well enough for me. I wanted to show a cheaper version the multiple membrane and 5 stage pre-filter systems were more expensive and wanted to keep it less complicated. If anybody is looking to do RO I think your comment will help them out greatly. Thank you for contributing to the comment section!
And love this kind of content, learning so much from it
Thank You 🙏
I have a water softener system that helps me a bit .. my reverse osmosis system makes it "reasonable". DI would make it "perfect".
Sometimes you got to use a system on a system on a system to deal with high TDS water.
@@CarsWithKeav yeah and then a system on top of the DI system 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@IamDetailedAF Never ending!
Man I recently got into these kinda things I purchased a tds tester and my water is 350-400 tds..
So many options out there too seems to be a new system everyday now.
I am new to car detailing, I was really into it years ago and I just got back in. I purchased a system and have been doing some research, and your thoughts and opinions are appreciated. To get to the point it seems like chlorine is probably the worst factor for resin deionization. I am certain there are other things, but that seems to be one of the key things that depletes the properties of the resin.
I just got my set up, and to help alleviate some of these issues I just did my own DIY two stage carbon filtration prior to hitting the resin tanks. I am getting a bit a flow penalty but I would rather have that then anything else. I am certain it makes no difference on which filter you use, but I decided to go with the clear2o carbon filters.
My water seems to be in the low 300's ppm, and I am going to test and see how long this will last. I am not a professional detailer, so it's going to take a long time to reach my test study but I am giving it a shot for 60 dollars in hopes my 350 dollar duel bed system may last a bit longer.
Second to that, I think people need to see if the company provides data on the water output, which also will play a role on the purity. I believe the highest grade purifiers/deionizers are in the 18Kohm region. Please excuse my ignorance if any of this sounds off, but the system I bought is shooting out 15 Kohm on the duel bed system alone. Guessing this will be a factor as well, or a topic that maybe overlooked.
Currently I am using the two carbon filters feeding into my duel bed system and out to the vehicle and after running water through it is a 0 ppm. Lets see how long this will last. Clearly if the water is too restricted you may want to just use one instead of two carbon filters.
I run a pre filter system as well using 2 carbon filters one for chlorine and the other for chloramine, but the system I am using doesn’t limit flow with the carbon. I use it with my regular water to help stop chlorine build up on my fittings. Out of my cr spotless it’s max is 2.5 GPM which would be. I am not sure how to convert Kohm to gallons though. You have the right setup flow restriction is always the hardest part to figure out. Usually a carbon setup would flow faster than the deionization, but depends on the housing as some have built in restrictors and some filters slow flow down. The bigger the filter and housing the more flow you are going to get.
Is there something special about it that made you recommend the Liquigen RO? What features should I look for in other RO's to make them suitable alternatives to the Liquigen? I'm about to pull the trigger on an RO to extend the life of my DI. Thanks for your content. I'm learning a lot!
Price point, accessories included for hose connections, GPD and reviews were what drew me to it. Most all these systems are the same the biggest factor in your decision is how many gallons per day do you want. They range from 50 GPD to Hundreds. Usually price goes up the more GPD you need.
@@CarsWithKeav thanks for the reply. Count me as a new sub!
@@JustFlyer7NC1 Appreciate that!
What would be the benefit of this setup over your previous 4 stage setup?
This would be for those with really bad water who would go through resin so fast it’s just would cost too much. I would say anything over 400ppm should be looking into this type of setup. You could also run this if your water is great if you don’t mind storing water your resin life couple double, triple or even more. Only issue is you will have wasted water usually 2 to 3 gallons of waste water for every gallon of clean water. Some just feed into their house drain and some do store that as well to be used for water around the property. Say for example me at 60ppm I was able to get well under 10ppm so my resin would at least double in life and my Easter water was about 100ppm so still good enough to be used to water plants, etc.
i'm actually testing out a 1.6 gal water distiller at the moment. In theory it should be a good way to get very low ppm water from harder water as I live in SoCal. Perhaps you can test one out yourself for a future video?
I have looked at them, but most of them are too slow and would take several days and some a week to get enough to wash a car. Distilled should be very close to 0ppm. No solids will lift into the condensation only H20.
@@CarsWithKeav So far I do like the distiller. I like the plug-n-play process for it. I wash my car bi-weekly I should have plenty of water to work with by then. I plan to use it for that final rinse or just mix it with my rinseless wash sprayers. Also I would use it for mixing products for my spray bottles.
My hardass water (400-500ppm) to 1-2ppm is pretty nice to see.
@@hawke525 that is awesome results and would work great with chemicals and the final rinse.
Have you tried connecting the output to a pressure washer? Just curious if there would be any delay between the small water pump and output from a pressure washer like the active 2.0, and if a pressure tank between the 2 would be necessary.
The pump I use I have tested at 3.5gpm consistent and have run my active 2.0 and an Ar630TSS with it for several washes and works great and that’s at more than 2gpm. I was running it through my cr spotless system to make sure it was full 0 ppm and it runs at 2.5gpm. No problems using the pressure washer there either.
@@CarsWithKeav Awesome. Thanks for the info.
I was looking up spotless water booster and saw how he is using RO to extend his DI resin. I wonder how long the RO items last and cost to maintain. Just curious what you would do if you wanted to run that through your pressure washer for a rinse? Thanks!
Most would store the water then pump it or gravity feed to the pressure washer. The suds and go UA-cam channel owner built a cool system he says can do 2gpm which is crazy good I have also seen some higher end RO systems that can do that as well. That would do most of the cheaper pressure washers. Always depends on the water worse the water more waste water you will have. RO membranes usually last at least a year or even years if the water is good. It is way more cost effective than DI resin just have to deal with the waste water.
I have a 110 gallon low pro tank under a bed cover, I would like to add a pump and a water drop mini in order to feed my active 2.0. Any suggestions on pumps/ how to get pressure down enough to feed the water drop mini? I haven’t seen anyone do this on a mobile truck bed low pro set up. Your advice would be greatly appreciated thank you!
The pump in this video would do well more than enough flow for the filter and Active 2.0. That’s the limit of my expertise in mobile detail setups I lack knowledge there, but learning more as I go along.
Have you seen the chemical metering solution from Meguiars? I want one but theyre too expensive, have you seen a system like that one but cheaper? Or maybe DIY?
Just looked you would have to. E doing some high volume to justify that cost not to mention all the supplies needed to built everything else out. I mean the cheapest way is metering tips. That is what most automated car washes use. Restricts the amount of soap that can be fed through giving you different dilutions.
I work for Koch Chemie USA. Our metering system is between $350-450 depending on the number of inputs.
@@gregoryknotts653 Nice you guys are not too far from me. Seen the building quite a few times.
I've been thinking about installing an RO system in my house for drinking water. I have to go to the store all the time to fill my 5 gallon jugs for my water dispenser and it's really annoying.
Good thing about under the sink systems the waste water just goes down the drain.
I was looking into getting a set up like this but i dont want to produce that much waste water. We are always in a drought and it almost never rains where i live. Is there anything you can do with the waste water? It would be cool if i could use it to water my lawn or something. Im probably going to get a dual bed di system, it seams to be the most cost effective if you look at price per gallon of di water. I have 325ppi water.
Waste water can be used for a few things like watering plants, toilet drain water, and sometimes washing clothes. Problem is you have to know what’s in your waste water, the quality of it among other things before even attempting any of them. Certain levels is bad for fabric and can harm plants. I myself would not any of them either the waste water. It’s hard to use which is why it’s called waste. It’s the worst part of RO systems. Most under the sink systems send the waste water down the drain.
@@CarsWithKeav thanks. I will go with the Adams dual bed system and build a diy bypass using your video. Thanks so much for all this research. I don't have the time and money to experiment and you saved me a ton of time and money. Appreciate it.
@@s2kologist That DI system will work getting used to how much you will use and how often to refill will be the learning curve. Since it’s dual bed and separated you could recharge the resin as well using chemicals. I’ve not learned that part yet, but want to try it some day. Good luck if you have any questions feel free to reach out on Instagram or Facebook DM’s. I think Adam’s has a built in bypass top you can get for those tanks as well.
Remember the waste water is only what was in your source water, minus whatever the pre-filter stages collected - so it is actually pretty good water. It will have slightly higher concentration of minerals than the source water. If you have 3:1 waste:product, and 100% removal, your waste water will have 33% more minerals. In practice you won't get 100% removal, so less than 33% more minerals. With my about 200ppm source water I get about 390ppm waste water and I have zero concern about using it on plants or anywhere the minerals don't matter - i.e. I wouldn't wash the car or windows with it, but I could drink it (but I have the R.O. for drinking so why would I?).
By the way, the actual name for the waste is "concentrate" because it concentrates the minerals, and the product water is "permeate" because it is what "permeates" thru the membrane. When using R.O. to concentrate maple sap to make maple syrup, the "concentrate" is the product, and the "permeate" is the waste. 😁
There are ways to significantly reduce the "concentrate" waste:
1. use 70psi to 80psi source water, some membranes are okay even higher -- higher pressure, less waste, from 40psi to 80psi is about 50% more output, e.g. 3:1.5 or 2:1
2. keep source water temperature 70F to 80F, but don't do hot, membranes don't like too warm -- warmer, less waste, a few percent more output
3. stage concentrate by add a membrane, concentrate from the first membrane as input to the second, combine the permeate from both as product water -- slightly worse since the second membrane is starting with slightly worse input water
I get 1:1 output, or even 5% or so better when the feed water is about 70F. My R.O. system has a booster pump on the input to keep about 80psi. The feed water temperature is seldom as warm as 70F. I have staged concentrate. My source water varies from about 180ppm to 210ppm and the combined output is 6ppm to 8ppm after 30 minutes of operation (gets better the more often and the longer it is run - the initial output after being idle is never great).
@@Sylvan_dB This is some really great info and appreciate this. Hopefully it helps more people in the comments. I’m just learning all this stuff. Just have heard some issue some have had with plants not being healthy when watered with the concentrate and staining clothes when using to wash them. I think it all depends on the concentrate like you said. Mine at 100ppm really isn’t bad like you said a lot of the bad stuff was taken care of by the filters. Depending on water source the concentrate could have elevated levels of lead, mercury, etc.?
Okay… Now we jumped on level 2 to make 0ppm water 🤣🙌
I think this is the highest level I go, but you never know. 🤣
My water is 150 ppm. Would I need a cr spotless system. Still
I don’t think you need a CR Spotless. A tank style or even the Waterdrop would be a good alternative that is much cheaper. CR Spotless is nice just most don’t like the $400 price tag.
do not water the plants with 400 ppm? that's my normal garden hose water haha
Well I was just trying to be safe for those that don't listen and if they have 500 TDS the concentrated waste water will be very potent. LOL
First! 😂
Always have a great video that is full of great information. I was dying when you kept looking at the camera to see if you had focused 😂 love the bloopers!! I can only imagine what your water bill is like 😮😆
I do that more often than I care to show. 🤣 I’m very OCD about it.