you should also tell ppl new to this..dont make any adjustments other then the choke on a cold motor...if you are going to play with the air/fuel screws...only do this on a warmed up motor
@Harry. B. Renner. jr. well,,what about the younger guys who dont know much..or anything about carbs?..seems simple right?..yet i have seen plenty of messed up things cuss many guys just dont know what they are doing ....keep that in mind..DUH
Something ive always kept with me when riding motorcycles....actually all the way back to when I was a kid and rode minibikes/dirtbikes then scooters then motorcycles..... is a the paper twisty ties. The kind that have a wire in themThe ones that come with garbage bags or bread. Even the ones that are flat with plastic on them. As ling as they have a wire in them. Id wrap a couple on my key or keychain or throw them in a compartment somewhere. Im a smoker so I always have a ligjter with me. If my carb starts giving me trouble I can just pull it apart. Burn the paper/plastic off the twisty and use it to clean out any orifice in a carburetor. Clean the jets, passage ways, holes, anything. If the hole it much bigger then the twisty wire I just put a bunch of kinks in the wire, by bending it around then run it in and out of the hole. Has always worked like a charm.
Find a friend who plays guitar. Next time he changes strings, ask him if you can have the high E, B and G strings off of it. They have a small brass ball on the end which work great as a handhold and can be cut to 2-3" lengths, They work well for clearing out the passages. I have a full set in my toolbox for just such occasions.
I use to keep a length of stripped multi-strand wire under the seat in the storage compartment. The copper was soft enough not to cause scratches or gouging.
Jamming a steel wire into your brass jets that work based on a very finely machined hole is a terrible idea. Either use copper wire that's softer than the jet material, or carry a can of carb cleaner. Honestly for grit or dirt that comes in naturally taking the jets out and blowing them out with your mouth is usually enough, if there's varnish or crap in them that's been around a while you aren't fixing it on the roadside anyway
I always kept a length of stranded wire in my toolbox from a motorcycle turn signal. THe strand are small enough to pass through the idle circuits on 250 cc motorcycle carbs. But find the size you need and use that. Softer the better to avoid gouges. NEVER DRILL an idle passage.
This vid reminded me of adjusting the mixture screws on a 383's AFB, in the early 70's. The guy is watching me, and says: "One of those is for gas, and the other is the air,..... right?" LOL!
When do you start teaching at Middle Tennessee State? Hay,, The serious stuff, I am glad you and Kathy are safe and the offer you gave to help others is the actions of people with Class.. Keep being who you are.
Sitting here in school , doing a refresher. As a kid I wasn't making squat working in a garage , so I went to tech school. One of the teachers was a little like Uncle Tony, the way he taught and showed examples. And we learned a boatload from him and I'm grateful for that.
Haha yup , most of the time you don't need no steenkin rebuild kit either. Smaller engines for yard stuff and whatnot are always getting nasty and ya gotta drop the bowl and clean em out
I'm an old "project wrencher"... glad to see these videos...great refresher for me. Just rebuilt my Holley tonight...mount it on the 76 Vette tomorrow. Also..just watched your vacuum tuning vid.... damn glad I kept ALL my old school tuning equipment and tools..from when I was a kid, hot rodding my 70 Cyclone. Got yourself a new subscriber !
Requires a lot of prep work before the event though... You have to fart around with it a while first, to build the rage up Then you can go for the distance. :D
Back when I was learning this stuff, google didn't exist. Worse, it wasn't my "project car" or something like that, it was my damn car. Thankfully, they really aren't that complicated, but they are very mechanical.
This is why the old boys should never be ignored: Hands on experience with complex critical thinking and improvisation. Meanwhile I just follow the shop manuals.
@@ronjones-6977 Yes, my only car and form of transportation. That makes fixing it more difficult because if something goes wrong, you gotta get to the parts store.
I was fortunate enough to learn about transition slots and idle air bleeds and carb " circuits" from older mechanics when i first started out as a professional mechanic. Vacuum signal is vital to proper idle and overall carb perforformance ive been taught. Great channel love this stuff
Thank you for covering all of this old stuff again, I need a refresher because I'm getting all of my old cars back out and running again for the summer so I have ten carburetors to clean up and set up!
The more and more of your videos I watch really boosts my confidence on rebuilding an engine. I have a 283 Chevy in mind it’s these small things that help. Getting a car to just idle is something I’m sure tons of guys struggle with. You make it simple thankful for dudes like uncle tony. I never had an uncle tony before.
Imagine the future of that EFI bolt on stuff.....rotting harnesses, electrical fires, cracking plastic pieces...clapped out units will hit swap meets in droves!
@@JesusSaves86AB well, the only thing with EFI i have is a car with a one big single point that is placed where a carb should be.. It's very reliable but yes modern EFI are getting too complicated
Thanks for the video Uncle Tony. When you talk about it step by step like that you can see all the different systems to make the carb function. So sophisticated in a compact design.
Man, I remember learning carbs on 4 wheeler. Mikuni's and such. Then my first Edelbrock. Learned really quickly about vacuum leaks. Then the 'Holly' quirks. All required patients that I didn't possess. Good stuff!
Heres a tip for cleaning out any small passages in carburetors (automotive or small machinery). I've been using electric guitar strings. They come 6 different sizes to a pack. .008 solid wire to .042 wire wound. Great for fishing filth out of tiny passages in carbs. Dirt cheap too.
Doubt you'll ever see this as this video has been out a while, but Thank You! I was out driving my slant and started losing idle. Checked for vac leaks (none) then pulled the carb (1920) and found what looked like a tiny bit of material hanging out of the tube end you can see below the lead plug. Blew it out with air (no lead removal luckily) and she runs great again. Thanks again for all the useful everyday info you put online
Also i have a question. I live in a climate that is very diverse. A summer morning could be 50 degrees and in the middle of the day it could get as high as 80-90. I am considering a carb for my latest build but I’m afraid of losing out on performance and tuning if I go with a carb vs going with aftermarket efi. Could i get away with a carb despite the drastic temps I experience and save myself a grand, or be safe and go with a Holley Sniper?
I daily drive a 78 ford f100. I love the simple carb set up . I'm also an ASE certified technician for over 20 years now. I can't tell you how many carburetor rebuilds I've done over the years .
Hey Tony David Pearson here from Texas. I don't know where you are located. But sir , I would walk across the Sahara desert with no shoes on Swim across the ocean holding my shoes above water with my hands just to shake your hand cuz you're such an intelligent person and truly God's gift to automobiles & engines.period Myself I know you have forgotten more than most people will ever know and we can take that to the bank.😂
Thank you for your videos I am 77 years old even some young mechanics don't know what a carburetor is. I sent a carburetor to an engine builder thru ups they asked me what it was and was it loaded.
I can only build one kind of carburetor Quadrajet. I get the numbers off the side of the carburetor and the rebuild kit. And quick drying epoxy. A can of berrymans chemtool carburetor cleaner. The best luck I've had is with new carburetors, and taking carburetors to a professional carburetor rebuilder. It was just easier for me to throw $200 at it then it was to deal with the frustration. I'm just better at scraping up $200 then I am working on a carburetor. A good carburetor rebuilder will have a test engine on a stand. He will dial your carburetor in before he returns it to you. Another thing I never touches is automatic transmissions. Automatic transmissions require a specialized chimp. Those parts are like bolt on components to me. The failure rate on rebuilt transmissions is high. I think it's like one out of three. Sometimes it's better to just let a shop do it. That way if there's a problem I just call a tow truck. I'm 61 on old and sore. Too old to be looking stupid fucking around with something several times. That little idle circuit on the carburetors kind of like an upside-down P-trap with a vent. I'm a plumber. Excellent video Tony. Thanks again
Hheyyy,,, Big Tony(!), You, my friend not only are a beast with your knowledge and wisdom, but you definitely do not suck passing that knowledge along! I grew up "not wealthy" and farming, ranching, racing, repairing, etc. so I know this stuff too. Here's my take away point; I have played your video(s) to non knowledgeable people, rather than trying to explain something myself (which I am also quite capable), and the newbies have totally been able to follow you and (with only 1 or 2 clarifications from me) and you can see the light come on in their eyes! So, a big fat attaboy to you my man👍. As they say in star trek (which I do not follow); you have the con. Carry on 😎
Understanding the universal basics for ANY fuel delivery device is essential. Fine job explaining the idle and transfer holes and why the mixture screws / holes are not fed from the bottom of a float bowl (s) as one would expect. There is a trap in the circuitry for the mixture adjust, or like a plumbing pipe trap and vent for your kitchen sink drain, there is an air bleed (vent) hole somewhere in the path between the fuel bowl source and the mixture screw all depending on manufacturer specifications. Glad you mentioned the leaded over (manufacturer drill hole) with the six cylinder carb.
I had one of those blasted one barrel Holly’s on my 69 Valiant with that pressed plug missing. A piece of rubber a dime and a toothpick made it run. Don’t forget the ball bearing check valve inside. I learned a lot from that old four door. I prefer the Carter two barrel, it just runs better. “In my opinion “. All this taught me how to make do and what it takes to get things running. A couple of important lessons here, do your homework and never ever give up. Thank you Uncle Tony.
Thanks to your last video I figured out the rough idle when my Fury was cold. The choke pull off that I replaced about 5 years ago due to a similar cold start issue was the culprit. Put in a new one I had laying around and it’s running great again. Thanks Uncle Tony! You saved me a lot of wasted time and possibly money. Cheers 🍻
Me and my dad were working on tuning his carburetor and we couldnt get it to idle and it just smelled up everything. Well after trying everything, he set the idle to 40, drilled out the holes in the front butterflies a little more and it is a dream that doesnt smell / burn up your eyes. I believe the came is a 232/236 110 lsa.
Most of these guys dont rebuild carbs or understand how they work. It's the same with all the small engines I work on. There is transitions in all carbs u just have to learn how they work before u work on them. Good video man, keep them coming alot of good advice even for experienced guys
If there are any vacuum leaks, the engine may not idle or will miss at idle. You cannot properly adjust the carburetor with vacuum leaks. Also if RPM is too high, it’s off idle circuit and won’t adjust. Most are off idle circuit around 1100-1200 rpm. Plugged idle circuit is the most common reason for a rebuild but the most common problem now a days is choke issues. With cleaner fuels you don’t have much trouble. Accelerator pump is probably the third most common problem with carburetors. That hesitation when first hitting the throttle. I always check to be sure a good strong squirt comes out when snapping the throttle engine off. I have rebuilt more carburetors in my life than I wish to admit to. Fuel injection is so easy and easy to set when the engine has been upgraded such as a larger cam etc. I still enjoy rebuilding carburetors even today. I teach my son the older cars along with the new ones. I’m working on a LT1 right now with him and he’s having trouble with the Optispark system which I myself had to educate myself about it for I never had any prior experience with it. Have a great day/weekend.
For cleaning up the small passages on any carb, I use a Tip Cleaner set, for cleaning cutting torches. They come in different sizes, & have lil ridges on them, for good cleaning. Another great video Uncle Tony, hope this lil "Tip" helps! !
Never had to mess with a car carburetor but my 2 stroke dirt bike has one and after 2 years of messing with it I went to a $500 fuel injection like carburetor and it runs perfect all the time now. Well worth it for me! Tried every combination of jets and needles and it was never right. Carburetors are easy to adjust and get to run but hard to perfect it at every elevation and temperature.
I've seen a lot of Q-jets that way too. Usually, if it's just a little chip, it won't hurt anything, but some guys will really crank down the screws (for some damn reason, I don't know what they think that'll fix) to the point where it breaks a whole chunk out and the throttle body has to be replaced.
I've found a good rule of thumb, Carter or now Edlebrook carburetors are so complex that they are simple to work on, Holley carburetors are simple but are complex to work on, because I had a 750 double pumper that kept blowing out the power valve when the engine was held at 6500 rpm then dropped back to idle, I remedied the problem when I put a 725 cfm Carter Competition in its place and got better 60 ft & 1/4 mile times plus higher mpg during the runs. As of this day the guy I gave the double pumper to still cant fix the power valve problem and he owns and operates a race shop that specializes in Holley race set ups. So I just do the KISS method, Keep It Simple Silly and go with the simplistic item that's pretty easy to maintain and upkeep and it'll get you what you need!
Thank you for a direct and to the point discussion of one part of the carburetor. This is an excellent way to discuss it, one circuit at a time. It may take a while to learn all the workings, but I get a chance to absorb what you said and I don't get bored with a long video. Thanks for the lesson.
A couple things I'd throw out there, as a guy who's spent several years dealing with carb'd cars on a daily basis in a shop (mostly Kihiens on Honda's - but carbs are carbs) 1. Most carb problems aren't. I found I saved a lot of time by checking for good spark, proper ignition timing, and vacuum leaks... Carbs get dirty and gummy, but it's commonly something else. Remember, the stuff I worked on was tiny compared to an AFB - a few thousands of crud that could make a difference on the little third barrel on a Honda CVCC would not make a measurable change on a big Carter or Holley four-barrel. And even then, they were rarely dirty enough to cause problems (compared to the amount of failed carb base gaskets & rotten vacuum hoses 2. Another guy pointed out not to fiddle with ANYTHING on the carb but the choke until it's fully warmed up. This is 100% correct. I would also add, if you think the choke is not working correctly, be damned sure you warm the car up completely, and that the idle circuit is set correctly then. I don't know how many cold running problems I worked on that turned out to be a lean running condition at idle. And, the car would seem to idle reasonably well when warmed up (oftentimes someone jacked up the idle speed to compensate...), but if I ran a propane test on it, the thing would pick up 150 RPM... get that fixed and the 'runs poorly when cold' complaint went away
I spent 3 yers working on 250cc motorcycles used in MSF classes in NC. I agree with you. Most of the carb problems were clogged passages. I NEVER needed a rebuild kit - just good cleaning. Carb, especially for a small engine HAS TO BE CLEAN!
I helped a friend with a 1978 Toyota pickup a few years ago. It would idle ok, but it would not drive right. I spent about 30 minutes figuring out what each screw did on the carb. Once I knew for sure what each screw did, I started dialing in the idle better, messed with the initial timing at the distributor dialing it in at idle, then fiddled with the other mix screws to make it run better off idle with no load. We took a drive around the block, and by doing all the adjusting by ear and nose, I got his truck to actually drive much better. It was not perfect still, but it didn't try to ram him into the vehicle in front of him anymore or get him rear ended. I honestly think looking back, he had a vacuum leak somewhere that we did not find. But hell, that truck had 335,000 miles on it, and that engine was BEAT on in the time he had it (it never ran right and I am pretty sure it was run lean for the better part of a year) and while it ran like crap, mechanically it was still fine!
ive never ever had to rebuild or take apart one of these kind of carbs but i like the info u give man you know alot of knowledge. ive said it once before but you can help a decent mechanic to understand things way easyer.
I started my apprenticeship in 1985. When I was in trade school we learned carburetors and what is now, primitive fuel injection. My final exam to get my license (Canada), it was so outdated there was a section about X frames.
Uncle Tony, as always a great wealth of info. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience on stuff especially carburetors when the world is pushing fuel injection conversions! An amateur hotrodder like me loves the plain, get to the point info you share on here. I think if regular folks knew some more about carb tune basics, we’d be cool with not throwing cash over ass at EFI kits. Really don’t want too.
My old 77 Econoline would kill intermittently too. It never worked for me before but I pulled and cleaned the mixture screws and blew shop air into the mixture screw holes and that did it. Edelbrock 650, I'd already opened it up and cleaned the Jets and passages to no avail, evidently I missed something so instead of disassembling it again I used the shop air trick.
I just finished the Carter WCD carb on my 1958 Willys Sedan Delivery. The last time I rebuilt it was 1984. The new gas is just nasty. The Edelbrock (Carter AFB) that you were holding is functionally about the same. The metering rods are much easier to assemble on the AFB. I enjoy your tutorial on carbs for the EFI set. Glad to see you're all fine. I'm waiting for the Power Valve vs. Metering Rod episode. Press on.
Best thing to do is just start taking stuff apart - My first time working on Carbs was on a V4 street bike - what a complicated mess of mechanisms and springs linking all four together. It was definitely a challenge to get them all apart, cleaned, bench synced and reinstalled again. I learned a lot in that process. Being a young guy I had to learn a lot of my dad and a few of his buddy’s. Those old guys know a lot of stuff and most are happy to share what they’ve learned over the years.
The transition slot is seen from from the top of the carburetor with a flashlight and Edelbrock recommends 1/8" of the slot exposed.... It can be achieved by adjusting the idle screw to open and close the butterflies.... Simple and effective however then you have to go back to the idle screws and adjust those with a vacuum gauge to achieve your own optimal idle rpm.
I have no experience With US carbs, but a lot with Italian and Japanese. When talking about the idle circuit on those you will have missed out a lot of detail :- there will be a fuel metering jet, an air metering jet (or a calibrated orifice) and an emulsion tube which mixes the air and fuel prior to the needle. In my experience bad idling is often caused by the emulsion tube being clogged. You have to remove and clean it, no amount of prodding with a piece of wire wire is going to fix it. I don't use wire, instead I use a set of Oxy/ Acetylene nozzle cleaners - much better for scraping off the crud.
I can't wait till you show the accelerator pump leather seal on the Slant 6 carb! I can't tell you how many times I pulled mine out and flared the leather seal, kneaded it, lightly oiled it, and put that baby back in. Too cheap to buy a new one when I was young because that would have meant less party money come the weekend.
When i rebuild a carburetor and take out all the parts and the only thing left is the body i squirt a bottle of toilet bowel cleaner called "The works" through all the ports and passage ways and let it sit for 15 minutes in a ventilated area . Then I flush the carb and ports/passage ways with hot water and dawn dish soap then rise out the carb and ports. The toilet bowel cleaner is just strong enough to clean out stuff but not strong enough to eat through the parts or the carb or even the port plugs . To dry it out i use compressed air and then used the rebuild kit and once the carb is back together and on the engine i make the external adjustments . Engines run great and the carb as well . Never had any issues.
When dealing with main and pilot jets or anything brass. I use the dental floss used for bridges. It has one end very stiff and the length of it looks like a tiny pipe cleaner. Won't scratch or damage anything and the fuzzy section holds carb cleaner very well. I'm a motorcycle enthusiast so dealing with clogging jets and passages is pretty common. Scratching the inside of a pilot jets for a motorcycle can destroy it. I sometimes use one copper wire from a multi strand speaker type conductor and a huge magnifying glass. Good luck friends.
Yes! Sometimes forgotten. Add a little thin oil to see if it helps. Use a red piped can of starter or similar and spray near it? See if idle changes? Maybe, too close.
Ppl thought i was crazy doing an engine swap with carb. Well guess what, my tired original V6 magnum with 50hp on a good day just wasn't cutting it. So bought a 360 for $500 CAD from junkyard(new donor) out of a 2001 2500 3/4 ton ram, and ripped the computer crap off. In the past year before I had replaced every damn sensor but 1, 2-3 times! I liked the dakota as a truck, didn't have a ton of money and the frame rails and body overall for being 20 years were in (and still are) amazing shape. The one big negative-it was my main vehicle and my time scale was a bit off. That and some thing that I tried worked while some didn't, along with a few unfortunately defective parts. Long story short, I tried Holley and they could not help me. REally nice tech guy said go to edelbrock. So 7757 RPM AirGap Performer dual plane intake manifold, 650cfm 4bbl manual choke carb (THAT HAD DEFECTIVE BENT METERING RODS-that took me 8 months to figure out! My gas mileage went from 8mpg to 19mpg). MSD high vibration coil, HEI "ready-to-run" distributor with the spark trigger built in, and external voltage regulator for my alternator. Other then that with my battery there is NO electronics under my hood, and lots of free room! Securing the choke cable, adjusting the idle speed and mixture screws all done with flathead screwdriver. Now my truck can finally tow something. Perfect! Lets see how many ppl know how to tune that instead of connecting the OBDII computer scanner! Btw -45C outside? So. Starts right up! Oh, but a carburetor sucks more gas you say. Not if you tune it right. And something some ppl may forget-if any vehicle with any kind of electronic fuel injection idles for more then 30 sec, you just burned more then it used for a cold start.
Just got hooked on your videos.. Great info. The problem im looking to fix is to why i am leaking out of the driver side secondary shaft.. its a new to me rebuilt 1406 Edelbrock. Still trying to get it up and running
If anybody can find the 1970 era quadrajet performance book by Doug Rowe who invented the Q-Jet Carb and was later bought out by GM you realize it's one of the best carburetors hands down that was ever made, and it covers just about everything of a normally aspirated induction system, there's even some mechanical fuel injectors and blowers in there too highly recommend it,
Holy canoli that's a lot of comments, love your videos brother. My apologies if you've tackeld this but an addendum regarding idle air bypass as it applies to the correct orientation of the primary butterflies at idle would be a great addition to this video.
UTG! You rock!!! On a side note, could you PLEASE do a few things on the 660 center squirters set up for tunnel rams? There’s almost ZERO vids on them, and you’re like me- OLD SKOOL- and I can understand your teachings!!!!
As always, you're spot on with the advice. One thing I'd like to add though is to use a BRASS wire, not a steel wire when cleaning passages in a carburetor. It might be an old wives tale but, that's what grandpa taught me and I've never had a problem following his advice. Steel wire might gouge the aluminum, causing all kinds of havoc, while brass is a softer metal. It'll still clear the passage, unless it's REALLY plugged but won't hurt the aluminum. If you can't clear the passage with brass wire, it's time for either a sonic cleaner or a new carb.
I've bought many used carbs for cheap that were full of crud from people not running an air cleaner. A good cleaning,reassemble and adjust and their good as new.
Wire brush remnants do great; I used guitar strings. Any small gauge music wire works well for fishing through carb passages - super strong yet flexible. Many a time I sat down and wound up playing a five string guitar.
Uncle Tony I have 3 carbureted muscle cars and I’ve never really been a carb dude knowledge wise most of my old school wrench buds aren’t either too much guess work very little help thanks to your vids I have absorbed enuff info to dial in the one troublesome carb I believe it sat too long without running my guess keep up the great vids wish I would found you years ago
helpful video. I have had a no idle caused by someone screwing in the needle, getting it stuck and breaking it off in the hole. just like you say. its a cleaning out the passages to get fuel flow.
We need more people like you on the internet. Fountain of knowledge, always gets straight to the point, some great stories too.
Straight to the point, but !
you should also tell ppl new to this..dont make any adjustments other then the choke on a cold motor...if you are going to play with the air/fuel screws...only do this on a warmed up motor
@Harry. B. Renner. jr. duh ???
@Harry. B. Renner. jr. well,,what about the younger guys who dont know much..or anything about carbs?..seems simple right?..yet i have seen plenty of messed up things cuss many guys just dont know what they are doing ....keep that in mind..DUH
Don’t make ANY adjustments - unless you actually KNOW what you are doing ... NOT merely what affect you want it to have😎🎯
@@glenholmgren1218 you have to learn somehow
🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
A wizard lives inside every carburetor.
This a fact and they demand a blood offering
And every automatic transmission
@@connerwilson2357 😆
That’s “EVIL” Wizard, to YOU!
@@willrocks3504😂
For clean idle passages 3rd electric guitar string is perfect.
Like on a standard gauge set?
Torch tip cleaners
So you clean your carbs with a G string.....
D string? I use g string and b strings
@@nen.user.3764 g, the strings are ebgdaE, 123456, 1 being high e, 6 being low E
Something ive always kept with me when riding motorcycles....actually all the way back to when I was a kid and rode minibikes/dirtbikes then scooters then motorcycles..... is a the paper twisty ties. The kind that have a wire in themThe ones that come with garbage bags or bread. Even the ones that are flat with plastic on them. As ling as they have a wire in them. Id wrap a couple on my key or keychain or throw them in a compartment somewhere. Im a smoker so I always have a ligjter with me. If my carb starts giving me trouble I can just pull it apart. Burn the paper/plastic off the twisty and use it to clean out any orifice in a carburetor. Clean the jets, passage ways, holes, anything. If the hole it much bigger then the twisty wire I just put a bunch of kinks in the wire, by bending it around then run it in and out of the hole. Has always worked like a charm.
Nice!
Find a friend who plays guitar. Next time he changes strings, ask him if you can have the high E, B and G strings off of it. They have a small brass ball on the end which work great as a handhold and can be cut to 2-3" lengths, They work well for clearing out the passages. I have a full set in my toolbox for just such occasions.
I use to keep a length of stripped multi-strand wire under the seat in the storage compartment. The copper was soft enough not to cause scratches or gouging.
Jamming a steel wire into your brass jets that work based on a very finely machined hole is a terrible idea. Either use copper wire that's softer than the jet material, or carry a can of carb cleaner. Honestly for grit or dirt that comes in naturally taking the jets out and blowing them out with your mouth is usually enough, if there's varnish or crap in them that's been around a while you aren't fixing it on the roadside anyway
I always kept a length of stranded wire in my toolbox from a motorcycle turn signal. THe strand are small enough to pass through the idle circuits on 250 cc motorcycle carbs. But find the size you need and use that. Softer the better to avoid gouges. NEVER DRILL an idle passage.
This vid reminded me of adjusting the mixture screws on a 383's AFB, in the early 70's. The guy is watching me, and says: "One of those is for gas, and the other is the air,..... right?" LOL!
When do you start teaching at Middle Tennessee State? Hay,, The serious stuff, I am glad you and Kathy are safe and the offer you gave to help others is the actions of people with Class.. Keep being who you are.
I'm so glad I found your channel! Thank you so much for explaining this to me like I'm five years old!! You sir are a great help to me!
Sitting here in school , doing a refresher.
As a kid I wasn't making squat working in a garage , so I went to tech school.
One of the teachers was a little like Uncle Tony, the way he taught and showed examples. And we learned a boatload from him and I'm grateful for that.
Excellent video! I’ve never been afraid to rip a carburetor apart and clean it out. It’s well worth doing
Haha yup , most of the time you don't need no steenkin rebuild kit either.
Smaller engines for yard stuff and whatnot are always getting nasty and ya gotta drop the bowl and clean em out
Set your camera to video. As you take it apart, talk your way through things that seem confusing.
I'm an old "project wrencher"... glad to see these videos...great refresher for me. Just rebuilt my Holley tonight...mount it on the 76 Vette tomorrow. Also..just watched your vacuum tuning vid.... damn glad I kept ALL my old school tuning equipment and tools..from when I was a kid, hot rodding my 70 Cyclone. Got yourself a new subscriber !
I gotta watch that carb fly just one more time. I'm glad it sounded like a soft landing.
Thank you Sir
I love these carb videos.im learning lots
Uncle Tony is the only reason I can get to work with my old Mopar... Thank you for all you do.
Carb chucking should be an Olympic Event !!
Requires a lot of prep work before the event though...
You have to fart around with it a while first, to build the rage up
Then you can go for the distance.
:D
@Lassi Kinnunen Phone throwing? Where? When? I MUST do this.
@Lassi Kinnunen
>phone throwing
Obligatory joke about 3310s being banned from said event because they cause to much damage.
@@EngineeringVignettes LOL! “... to build up *THE RAGE* “ ...
Oh, so you too have worked on stubborn carburetors 😎👍🤣🤣
Well Tony is flexing wit a QJ here. So better train hard.
Back when I was learning this stuff, google didn't exist. Worse, it wasn't my "project car" or something like that, it was my damn car.
Thankfully, they really aren't that complicated, but they are very mechanical.
Exactly!!!
This is why the old boys should never be ignored: Hands on experience with complex critical thinking and improvisation. Meanwhile I just follow the shop manuals.
EDD. You mean "my car?"
@@ronjones-6977 Yes, my only car and form of transportation. That makes fixing it more difficult because if something goes wrong, you gotta get to the parts store.
I was 16 years old before I realized that "damnFord" was two words. Been driving them for over 60 years!
I was fortunate enough to learn about transition slots and idle air bleeds and carb " circuits" from older mechanics when i first started out as a professional mechanic. Vacuum signal is vital to proper idle and overall carb perforformance ive been taught. Great channel love this stuff
My mechanics class shop teacher taught us the importance of using a vacuum gauge to pinpoint problems.
@rchydrozz751 Absolutely. A vacuum gauge is a must have for any professional technician..
Great advice Tony, the best way to fix something is to start by learning how it works.
Boy do I miss my old E-58 code 360 Thermoquad equiped Road-Runner, what a sound that Carb had...
Its worth mentioning the dwell and timing (in that order) has to be correct before you try to get the carb/idle adjustments right.
Thank you for covering all of this old stuff again, I need a refresher because I'm getting all of my old cars back out and running again for the summer so I have ten carburetors to clean up and set up!
I wish we had an uncle Tony and crew in lake city Florida. I am telling you you have been a great person helping so many people up there.
The more and more of your videos I watch really boosts my confidence on rebuilding an engine. I have a 283 Chevy in mind it’s these small things that help. Getting a car to just idle is something I’m sure tons of guys struggle with. You make it simple thankful for dudes like uncle tony. I never had an uncle tony before.
Carbs- ain't nothin' a wire can't fix..... EFI- every wire has to be fixed!
Imagine the future of that EFI bolt on stuff.....rotting harnesses, electrical fires, cracking plastic pieces...clapped out units will hit swap meets in droves!
Yup,and it was runnin when i took it off!!
@@lobmin Yes sir, I love my 80's and 90's cars but the DIS and EFI components don't age well.
@@JesusSaves86AB well, the only thing with EFI i have is a car with a one big single point that is placed where a carb should be.. It's very reliable but yes modern EFI are getting too complicated
EFI is fine, it's simple if you keep it simple and know your shit.
Man i passed out watching this yesterday and then had a dream I was arguing with you and Kathy over Everly Brother's songs.. out there
I would totally sit around the shop, drink a beer, and BS with you. You are a very smart man.
Good point my k10 have a 4 burrell carburetor. We don't have people like you. I see your passion for the engines or carburetor 👏👏👏thanks uncle Tony
Watching your videos totally boosts my confidence to tackle some of the old beaters we have kicking around here.
Thanks for the video Uncle Tony.
When you talk about it step by step like that you can see all the different systems to make the carb function. So sophisticated in a compact design.
Man, I remember learning carbs on 4 wheeler. Mikuni's and such. Then my first Edelbrock. Learned really quickly about vacuum leaks. Then the 'Holly' quirks. All required patients that I didn't possess. Good stuff!
I personally use ether. U?
🤷🏼♂️ works for me
@Harry. B. Renner. jr. your welcome
Heres a tip for cleaning out any small passages in carburetors (automotive or small machinery). I've been using electric guitar strings. They come 6 different sizes to a pack. .008 solid wire to .042 wire wound. Great for fishing filth out of tiny passages in carbs. Dirt cheap too.
Doubt you'll ever see this as this video has been out a while, but Thank You! I was out driving my slant and started losing idle. Checked for vac leaks (none) then pulled the carb (1920) and found what looked like a tiny bit of material hanging out of the tube end you can see below the lead plug. Blew it out with air (no lead removal luckily) and she runs great again. Thanks again for all the useful everyday info you put online
As a young buck at 19 just getting into carbs, you have really helped me with understanding how to tune them and what their quirks are. Thanks a lot😃
Also i have a question. I live in a climate that is very diverse. A summer morning could be 50 degrees and in the middle of the day it could get as high as 80-90. I am considering a carb for my latest build but I’m afraid of losing out on performance and tuning if I go with a carb vs going with aftermarket efi. Could i get away with a carb despite the drastic temps I experience and save myself a grand, or be safe and go with a Holley Sniper?
Good video, my automotive diet consists of lots of carbs!
@lobo Hernandez I guess if you ran Tunnel Ram that would be a "high carb diet"!
I daily drive a 78 ford f100. I love the simple carb set up . I'm also an ASE certified technician for over 20 years now. I can't tell you how many carburetor rebuilds I've done over the years .
Brilliant, free gold fellow gearheads, Thank you my man...
Hey Tony David Pearson here from Texas. I don't know where you are located. But sir , I would walk across the Sahara desert with no shoes on Swim across the ocean holding my shoes above water with my hands just to shake your hand cuz you're such an intelligent person and truly God's gift to automobiles & engines.period Myself I know you have forgotten more than most people will ever know and we can take that to the bank.😂
Thank you for your videos I am 77 years old even some young mechanics don't know what a carburetor is. I sent a carburetor to an engine builder thru ups they asked me what it was and was it loaded.
The throttle plate tip is invaluable! Uncle Tony, National Treasure!!!!
I can only build one kind of carburetor Quadrajet. I get the numbers off the side of the carburetor and the rebuild kit.
And quick drying epoxy.
A can of berrymans chemtool carburetor cleaner.
The best luck I've had is with new carburetors, and taking carburetors to a professional carburetor rebuilder. It was just easier for me to throw $200 at it then it was to deal with the frustration. I'm just better at scraping up $200 then I am working on a carburetor. A good carburetor rebuilder will have a test engine on a stand. He will dial your carburetor in before he returns it to you. Another thing I never touches is automatic transmissions. Automatic transmissions require a specialized chimp. Those parts are like bolt on components to me.
The failure rate on rebuilt transmissions is high. I think it's like one out of three. Sometimes it's better to just let a shop do it. That way if there's a problem I just call a tow truck.
I'm 61 on old and sore. Too old to be looking stupid fucking around with something several times.
That little idle circuit on the carburetors kind of like an upside-down P-trap with a vent.
I'm a plumber. Excellent video Tony. Thanks again
Hheyyy,,, Big Tony(!),
You, my friend not only are a beast with your knowledge and wisdom, but you definitely do not suck passing that knowledge along! I grew up "not wealthy" and farming, ranching, racing, repairing, etc. so I know this stuff too.
Here's my take away point; I have played your video(s) to non knowledgeable people, rather than trying to explain something myself (which I am also quite capable), and the newbies have totally been able to follow you and (with only 1 or 2 clarifications from me) and you can see the light come on in their eyes!
So, a big fat attaboy to you my man👍.
As they say in star trek (which I do not follow); you have the con. Carry on 😎
Thank you!
I luv these carb videos, thank u uncle tony and uncle Kathy
Understanding the universal basics for ANY fuel delivery device is essential. Fine job explaining the idle and transfer holes and why the mixture screws / holes are not fed from the bottom of a float bowl (s) as one would expect. There is a trap in the circuitry for the mixture adjust, or like a plumbing pipe trap and vent for your kitchen sink drain, there is an air bleed (vent) hole somewhere in the path between the fuel bowl source and the mixture screw all depending on manufacturer specifications. Glad you mentioned the leaded over (manufacturer drill hole) with the six cylinder carb.
I had one of those blasted one barrel Holly’s on my 69 Valiant with that pressed plug missing. A piece of rubber a dime and a toothpick made it run. Don’t forget the ball bearing check valve inside. I learned a lot from that old four door. I prefer the Carter two barrel, it just runs better. “In my opinion “. All this taught me how to make do and what it takes to get things running. A couple of important lessons here, do your homework and never ever give up. Thank you Uncle Tony.
Thanks to your last video I figured out the rough idle when my Fury was cold. The choke pull off that I replaced about 5 years ago due to a similar cold start issue was the culprit. Put in a new one I had laying around and it’s running great again. Thanks Uncle Tony! You saved me a lot of wasted time and possibly money. Cheers 🍻
Me and my dad were working on tuning his carburetor and we couldnt get it to idle and it just smelled up everything. Well after trying everything, he set the idle to 40, drilled out the holes in the front butterflies a little more and it is a dream that doesnt smell / burn up your eyes. I believe the came is a 232/236 110 lsa.
Most of these guys dont rebuild carbs or understand how they work. It's the same with all the small engines I work on. There is transitions in all carbs u just have to learn how they work before u work on them. Good video man, keep them coming alot of good advice even for experienced guys
You are 100% right Tony. There are so many tricks to the trade, almost insider stuff that books just don't cover.
These videos are slowly turning me into a carb guy from a FI guy
Thanks tony, prayers for America's volunteers state,Tennessee, God bless.
If there are any vacuum leaks, the engine may not idle or will miss at idle. You cannot properly adjust the carburetor with vacuum leaks. Also if RPM is too high, it’s off idle circuit and won’t adjust. Most are off idle circuit around 1100-1200 rpm. Plugged idle circuit is the most common reason for a rebuild but the most common problem now a days is choke issues. With cleaner fuels you don’t have much trouble. Accelerator pump is probably the third most common problem with carburetors. That hesitation when first hitting the throttle. I always check to be sure a good strong squirt comes out when snapping the throttle engine off. I have rebuilt more carburetors in my life than I wish to admit to. Fuel injection is so easy and easy to set when the engine has been upgraded such as a larger cam etc. I still enjoy rebuilding carburetors even today. I teach my son the older cars along with the new ones. I’m working on a LT1 right now with him and he’s having trouble with the Optispark system which I myself had to educate myself about it for I never had any prior experience with it. Have a great day/weekend.
For cleaning up the small passages on any carb, I use a Tip Cleaner set, for cleaning cutting torches. They come in different sizes, & have lil ridges on them, for good cleaning. Another great video Uncle Tony, hope this lil "Tip" helps! !
Never had to mess with a car carburetor but my 2 stroke dirt bike has one and after 2 years of messing with it I went to a $500 fuel injection like carburetor and it runs perfect all the time now. Well worth it for me! Tried every combination of jets and needles and it was never right. Carburetors are easy to adjust and get to run but hard to perfect it at every elevation and temperature.
I have seen AFB idle mixture screws tightened to the point of breaking the casting inside the throttle bores around the needle holes.
I've seen a lot of Q-jets that way too. Usually, if it's just a little chip, it won't hurt anything, but some guys will really crank down the screws (for some damn reason, I don't know what they think that'll fix) to the point where it breaks a whole chunk out and the throttle body has to be replaced.
I've found a good rule of thumb, Carter or now Edlebrook carburetors are so complex that they are simple to work on, Holley carburetors are simple but are complex to work on, because I had a 750 double pumper that kept blowing out the power valve when the engine was held at 6500 rpm then dropped back to idle, I remedied the problem when I put a 725 cfm Carter Competition in its place and got better 60 ft & 1/4 mile times plus higher mpg during the runs. As of this day the guy I gave the double pumper to still cant fix the power valve problem and he owns and operates a race shop that specializes in Holley race set ups.
So I just do the KISS method, Keep It Simple Silly and go with the simplistic item that's pretty easy to maintain and upkeep and it'll get you what you need!
Thank you for a direct and to the point discussion of one part of the carburetor. This is an excellent way to discuss it, one circuit at a time. It may take a while to learn all the workings, but I get a chance to absorb what you said and I don't get bored with a long video. Thanks for the lesson.
Thank you youtube for recommending this
A couple things I'd throw out there, as a guy who's spent several years dealing with carb'd cars on a daily basis in a shop (mostly Kihiens on Honda's - but carbs are carbs)
1. Most carb problems aren't. I found I saved a lot of time by checking for good spark, proper ignition timing, and vacuum leaks... Carbs get dirty and gummy, but it's commonly something else.
Remember, the stuff I worked on was tiny compared to an AFB - a few thousands of crud that could make a difference on the little third barrel on a Honda CVCC would not make a measurable change on a big Carter or Holley four-barrel.
And even then, they were rarely dirty enough to cause problems (compared to the amount of failed carb base gaskets & rotten vacuum hoses
2. Another guy pointed out not to fiddle with ANYTHING on the carb but the choke until it's fully warmed up.
This is 100% correct.
I would also add, if you think the choke is not working correctly, be damned sure you warm the car up completely, and that the idle circuit is set correctly then.
I don't know how many cold running problems I worked on that turned out to be a lean running condition at idle. And, the car would seem to idle reasonably well when warmed up (oftentimes someone jacked up the idle speed to compensate...), but if I ran a propane test on it, the thing would pick up 150 RPM... get that fixed and the 'runs poorly when cold' complaint went away
I spent 3 yers working on 250cc motorcycles used in MSF classes in NC. I agree with you. Most of the carb problems were clogged passages. I NEVER needed a rebuild kit - just good cleaning. Carb, especially for a small engine HAS TO BE CLEAN!
I helped a friend with a 1978 Toyota pickup a few years ago. It would idle ok, but it would not drive right. I spent about 30 minutes figuring out what each screw did on the carb. Once I knew for sure what each screw did, I started dialing in the idle better, messed with the initial timing at the distributor dialing it in at idle, then fiddled with the other mix screws to make it run better off idle with no load. We took a drive around the block, and by doing all the adjusting by ear and nose, I got his truck to actually drive much better. It was not perfect still, but it didn't try to ram him into the vehicle in front of him anymore or get him rear ended. I honestly think looking back, he had a vacuum leak somewhere that we did not find. But hell, that truck had 335,000 miles on it, and that engine was BEAT on in the time he had it (it never ran right and I am pretty sure it was run lean for the better part of a year) and while it ran like crap, mechanically it was still fine!
My wife giggled the whole video. One of a kind!
ive never ever had to rebuild or take apart one of these kind of carbs but i like the info u give man you know alot of knowledge. ive said it once before but you can help a decent mechanic to understand things way easyer.
Keep flooding the Galaxy with knowledge may the swarts be with you
Yep. I learnt most of this from a book I had a long time ago on Holley carbs, how to rebuild and tune them.
I started my apprenticeship in 1985. When I was in trade school we learned carburetors and what is now, primitive fuel injection. My final exam to get my license (Canada), it was so outdated there was a section about X frames.
Uncle Tony, as always a great wealth of info. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience on stuff especially carburetors when the world is pushing fuel injection conversions! An amateur hotrodder like me loves the plain, get to the point info you share on here. I think if regular folks knew some more about carb tune basics, we’d be cool with not throwing cash over ass at EFI kits. Really don’t want too.
Thank you uncle Tony! You should be teaching in your local tech school!🙂 You make this easy to understand !
Uncle Tony, you are making this very simple and understandable, thank you!
My old 77 Econoline would kill intermittently too. It never worked for me before but I pulled and cleaned the mixture screws and blew shop air into the mixture screw holes and that did it. Edelbrock 650, I'd already opened it up and cleaned the Jets and passages to no avail, evidently I missed something so instead of disassembling it again I used the shop air trick.
Thank you so much for all this knowledge you are passing on.
I just finished the Carter WCD carb on my 1958 Willys Sedan Delivery. The last time I rebuilt it was 1984. The new gas is just nasty. The Edelbrock (Carter AFB) that you were holding is functionally about the same. The metering rods are much easier to assemble on the AFB. I enjoy your tutorial on carbs for the EFI set. Glad to see you're all fine. I'm waiting for the Power Valve vs. Metering Rod episode. Press on.
Best thing to do is just start taking stuff apart - My first time working on Carbs was on a V4 street bike - what a complicated mess of mechanisms and springs linking all four together. It was definitely a challenge to get them all apart, cleaned, bench synced and reinstalled again. I learned a lot in that process.
Being a young guy I had to learn a lot of my dad and a few of his buddy’s. Those old guys know a lot of stuff and most are happy to share what they’ve learned over the years.
You're my hero Tony! Hope the nadoes missed you brother man
Hi Uncle Tony, great great video, love the carb toss
Throwing carbs.... love it. Your getting back to your roots!
Thanks unc.
The transition slot is seen from from the top of the carburetor with a flashlight and Edelbrock recommends 1/8" of the slot exposed.... It can be achieved by adjusting the idle screw to open and close the butterflies.... Simple and effective however then you have to go back to the idle screws and adjust those with a vacuum gauge to achieve your own optimal idle rpm.
I have no experience With US carbs, but a lot with Italian and Japanese. When talking about the idle circuit on those you will have missed out a lot of detail :- there will be a fuel metering jet, an air metering jet (or a calibrated orifice) and an emulsion tube which mixes the air and fuel prior to the needle. In my experience bad idling is often caused by the emulsion tube being clogged. You have to remove and clean it, no amount of prodding with a piece of wire wire is going to fix it. I don't use wire, instead I use a set of Oxy/ Acetylene nozzle cleaners - much better for scraping off the crud.
Good information. 1st time I realized carb spray doesn’t do much. Thanks!
Uncle Tony ... my kinda guy. Wish he was my brother in law!!
5 Up Thumbs from Maine!!
I can't wait till you show the accelerator pump leather seal on the Slant 6 carb! I can't tell you how many times I pulled mine out and flared the leather seal, kneaded it, lightly oiled it, and put that baby back in. Too cheap to buy a new one when I was young because that would have meant less party money come the weekend.
Great video.I have no problems getting throw away mowers running...(usually carb) but I haven't had a carb vehicle since 98-99 ish.
When i rebuild a carburetor and take out all the parts and the only thing left is the body i squirt a bottle of toilet bowel cleaner called "The works" through all the ports and passage ways and let it sit for 15 minutes in a ventilated area . Then I flush the carb and ports/passage ways with hot water and dawn dish soap then rise out the carb and ports. The toilet bowel cleaner is just strong enough to clean out stuff but not strong enough to eat through the parts or the carb or even the port plugs . To dry it out i use compressed air and then used the rebuild kit and once the carb is back together and on the engine i make the external adjustments . Engines run great and the carb as well . Never had any issues.
I needed this, thanks Tony.
It's no bs videos like this that compelled me to subscribe.
When dealing with main and pilot jets or anything brass.
I use the dental floss used for bridges.
It has one end very stiff and the length of it looks like a tiny pipe cleaner.
Won't scratch or damage anything and the fuzzy section holds carb cleaner very well.
I'm a motorcycle enthusiast so dealing with clogging jets and passages is pretty common.
Scratching the inside of a pilot jets for a motorcycle can destroy it.
I sometimes use one copper wire from a multi strand speaker type conductor and a huge magnifying glass. Good luck friends.
In the aircraft propeller shop I work in, throwing rejected parts to raise eyebrows is great fun.
I noticed that you threw the carb into the grass and not on the concrete.
My father took down over 35 German planes near the end of WWII.
He was the worst airplane mechanic the Luftwaffe ever had
Nice video Tony, that’s me taking the carb off thx, I also got advance issues, backfires stop when I pull the vacumn off the dizzy
Also possible vacuum leaks from the brass bushings being worn
Or further downstream. PCV system, carb spacers, intake manifold gaskets...
Yes! Sometimes forgotten. Add a little thin oil to see if it helps. Use a red piped can of starter or similar and spray near it? See if idle changes? Maybe, too close.
Ppl thought i was crazy doing an engine swap with carb. Well guess what, my tired original V6 magnum with 50hp on a good day just wasn't cutting it. So bought a 360 for $500 CAD from junkyard(new donor) out of a 2001 2500 3/4 ton ram, and ripped the computer crap off. In the past year before I had replaced every damn sensor but 1, 2-3 times! I liked the dakota as a truck, didn't have a ton of money and the frame rails and body overall for being 20 years were in (and still are) amazing shape. The one big negative-it was my main vehicle and my time scale was a bit off. That and some thing that I tried worked while some didn't, along with a few unfortunately defective parts. Long story short, I tried Holley and they could not help me. REally nice tech guy said go to edelbrock. So 7757 RPM AirGap Performer dual plane intake manifold, 650cfm 4bbl manual choke carb (THAT HAD DEFECTIVE BENT METERING RODS-that took me 8 months to figure out! My gas mileage went from 8mpg to 19mpg). MSD high vibration coil, HEI "ready-to-run" distributor with the spark trigger built in, and external voltage regulator for my alternator. Other then that with my battery there is NO electronics under my hood, and lots of free room! Securing the choke cable, adjusting the idle speed and mixture screws all done with flathead screwdriver. Now my truck can finally tow something. Perfect! Lets see how many ppl know how to tune that instead of connecting the OBDII computer scanner! Btw -45C outside? So. Starts right up! Oh, but a carburetor sucks more gas you say. Not if you tune it right. And something some ppl may forget-if any vehicle with any kind of electronic fuel injection idles for more then 30 sec, you just burned more then it used for a cold start.
Just got hooked on your videos.. Great info. The problem im looking to fix is to why i am leaking out of the driver side secondary shaft.. its a new to me rebuilt 1406 Edelbrock. Still trying to get it up and running
I just love watching your videos, the knowledge you give away is so helpful to beginners like me
If anybody can find the 1970 era quadrajet performance book by Doug Rowe who invented the Q-Jet Carb and was later bought out by GM you realize it's one of the best carburetors hands down that was ever made, and it covers just about everything of a normally aspirated induction system, there's even some mechanical fuel injectors and blowers in there too highly recommend it,
Holy canoli that's a lot of comments, love your videos brother. My apologies if you've tackeld this but an addendum regarding idle air bypass as it applies to the correct orientation of the primary butterflies at idle would be a great addition to this video.
Great Video, I am sure that this will help a lot of people at some point, including myself. Thank You.
UTG! You rock!!!
On a side note, could you PLEASE do a few things on the 660 center squirters set up for tunnel rams? There’s almost ZERO vids on them, and you’re like me- OLD SKOOL- and I can understand your teachings!!!!
As always, you're spot on with the advice. One thing I'd like to add though is to use a BRASS wire, not a steel wire when cleaning passages in a carburetor. It might be an old wives tale but, that's what grandpa taught me and I've never had a problem following his advice. Steel wire might gouge the aluminum, causing all kinds of havoc, while brass is a softer metal. It'll still clear the passage, unless it's REALLY plugged but won't hurt the aluminum. If you can't clear the passage with brass wire, it's time for either a sonic cleaner or a new carb.
I've bought many used carbs for cheap that were full of crud from people not running an air cleaner. A good cleaning,reassemble and adjust and their good as new.
Thanks Uncle Tony. Well explained. And I just discovered I'm just an analog type of person.
Like Joe Walsh sang: I'm an analog man in a digital world... need to find me an analog girl.
Wire brush remnants do great; I used guitar strings. Any small gauge music wire works well for fishing through carb passages - super strong yet flexible. Many a time I sat down and wound up playing a five string guitar.
Uncle Tony I have 3 carbureted muscle cars and I’ve never really been a carb dude knowledge wise most of my old school wrench buds aren’t either too much guess work very little help thanks to your vids I have absorbed enuff info to dial in the one troublesome carb I believe it sat too long without running my guess keep up the great vids wish I would found you years ago
I've used guitar strings to clear the venturi tubes on a Motorcraft 2100. Works every time.
helpful video. I have had a no idle caused by someone screwing in the needle, getting it stuck and breaking it off in the hole. just like you say. its a cleaning out the passages to get fuel flow.