The Rolex Explorer 214270 & Smiths Everest PRS-25 (Review): 50+ Years of Design
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- A Discussion and Review of the Rolex Explorer 214270 and the Smiths Everest PRS-25 (36mm) focusing on their aesthetics and the 50+ year developmental gap between their designs. Both represent styles of their time, one a more "dress" oriented piece, the other more focused towards the Professional. But both also have a common understanding of addressing the simplicity of their styles in a unique way and make for an interesting talking point.
#RolexExplorer #SmithsEverest #ExplorerReview
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It speaks volumes about how good the smiths is,that it can sit next to a Rolex explorer,and not look out of place or outclassed.
Unlike a conventional review, I decided to discuss around them and their aesthetics instead. Thought the pictures would do the talking more than I could ;) Enjoy!
I had no idea of those numerals on that Air King. this is why your channel is an absolute must for us watch geeks.
It's actually amazing how many other Rolex's of the time (around the 50's and 60's) like OP's and others shared this strange retro typeface. It does completely change your mindset when you look at the modern one (at least for me) ;) Thank you for your comment Michael, it really means a lot!
The Rolex Explorer was my “first “ luxury watch in large part because I believed it could be a one and done proposition. The watch can do it all be it dress,sports,and every day. We can discuss the watches merits and shortcomings but I think at the end of the day the Explorer is just simplicity with rugged elegance!
"Simplicity with rugged elegance" is so well put underachieving. The design is one that we all will eventually go back to, whether in 5 years time or 50 years time. It's on of these "essentials" in a collection, no doubt. Thank you for the comment brother!
Sounds like a wise choice.
All things being equal, would you make the same choice again?
@@anthonysmith2982 👍 yes-buy what you like!
@@underachievingwatchcollect1878
Glad to hear that mate.
And yep; step back and consider ᴡʜʏ you want to buy a piece, and sometimes if we're honest with ourselves the answers are... interesting! 👍🏼
Why is "first" in quotation marks and not "luxury"? Did you buy Omegas and Breitlings and not consider them luxurious enough?
I'm a writer and a watch enthusiast and I've got to say I think your scripting is perhaps the best of any youtube watch channel I've seen. Respect.
I much prefer the Smiths to the Explorer. The latter just looks too big, with the dial details stretched out too unnaturally as well. It really needs to be smaller. Currently, to my eyes anyway it looks like a caricature of the original, not an improvement.
The old Explorers and Air Kings were tough but elegant. The new ones had different mission -- to be in your face.
Presence for the sake of presence. But then, there are some benefits to the added size (marketing without needing to mention the watches name is one) ;) Thanks for the comment, brother!
Well put.
Yes indeed. The modern Rolex is made to appeal to a very different clientele than yesteryear - a more Eastern European, Russian, Middle Eastern, Asian... cultures where glitz and excess are the norm!
They are far from cry from English restraint of the past. This is why the Smiths Everest is so popular, it reminds us of past restraint in all things.
I couldn't bring myself to spend as much as a 1016 commands. It's said that one shouldn't settle for a substitute but I'm happily wearing my 2 week old PRS-25.
I think that is a fantastic choice.
Vintage Rolex is simply out of the reach of most of us.
I believe that homage watches are absolutely the way to go when a particular beloved timepiece is both long out of production and prohibitively expensive.
Wear it with joy and in good health!
I'm certainly enjoying my Steinhart Explorer II 1655 homage.
Wear it with pride I say. There is no shame in ɴᴏᴛ owning a £15K watch.
Me too bro, the new logo is so much better than the old type face
@@davidb9531 •
Absolutely.
@@anthonysmith2982 and they're going for £600 plus on ebay 😂
@@davidb9531 •
It's crazy isn't it.
I get sorta get it... If £600 isn't alot of money to you and TF's limited opening hours are not something that you are willing to deal with.
But Jesus. He opens up every month, yeah? It's not that hard...
I heard - I'm 90% it was Tim from the Caseback Watches channel - that Mr. Platz turned down a substantial offer so that he can keep running Time Factors as he sees fit.
If true (I've got no reason to doubt it) my respect for grew further after hearing that.
Cheers mate.
That white explorer dial Air King is amazing. I’m glad someone else finally noticed the connection between that ref. and the modern day explorers
Nothing more satisfying then wearing a steel bracelet in the mid of -30 degrees
Phahaha! Well, talk about a comfortable, conforming fit. Just kisses the skin gently, doesn't it? ;)
If -30 degrees Celsius is the cutoff, then I can't wear a steel band about 25 days a year. But generally it is oh so sunny on those cold days.
Another magnificent video with a wealth of research into the Rolex history. As always, you continue to teach me more about the watch design I remain most interested in. Whether the Smiths Everest current incarnation or the Rolex Explorer - they are both outstanding watches. And wearing an homage to the notorious 1016 should NEVER be looked at derisively. Wear them both with honor!
I can’t agree more @Reed Grabowski 👏👊
Wow! One of your best video ever IDGuy. You have truly expressed the timeless virtues that each of these style Explorer s exhibits. Well done as always!
One of my best, Blueshirt? Can't be... Digging into the philosophy of these machines continues to always fascinate me, brother. Can't wait for our chat on Sunday!
@@ID-Guy Blueshirt Buddha is wowed by almost all your videos. And, that's a great thing!! Keep 'em up kind sir.
Thank you for the knowledge of where the 214270 got its squared off numerals from.
As mentioned, the 1016 dial these days is more of a dress watch but I’m sure it still can cross over as an adventure watch, the dial is classic and timeless. The new dial seems stuck in the late 90s early 00s, very Bryan Singer’s XMen
I feel that most enthusiasts such as myself appreciate the explorer line for its less is more aesthetic however comparing these two watches....the rolex dial appears busy and crowded compared to the smiths. I love how your videos analyze the design more so than the watch itself and the balance that is created by the makers ...I am an explorer guy all day, everyday (wearing my 1016 now) but between the two I agree and feel that the less is more feel of the smiths is more appealing because it has less on the dial. Another great vid @idguy Thank you!
You’re going to be the reason behind the “coming soon” Explorer Hype 😅 Fantastic video as always 😍✌🏼
Just received another, one of the biggest Hype watches of 2020 in the mail today too (you'll see it on Saturday) ;) Thank you as always, m'boy! I hope you've had an excellent week
@@ID-Guy haha 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 can’t wait 😍
I have both - 214270 and Smiths Everest (cream dial) both great watches and rotate them constantly. As per many comments here the 36 is really comfortable and you barely feel you have it on, the Explorer is so beautifully made and has real presence. Love them both.
Rolex with the size increase has done more than modernized the explorer.. the dial looks a lot less cluttered, it works. Also, 7:51-7:56 the light playing on the Smiths crystal... *Chef's kiss*. 👏🏾 Your reviews are simply, brilliant.
I sold my Explorer 39, when I picked up a modern AK. The 39 always felt too small on my 7 inch wrist, the lugs end was just too far from the edge of my wrist. I love the AK, it’s quirky, and the Milgaus case has a lot more presence, but not the polish bling of a Milgaus. If you want a watch that nobody notices (including yourself most of the time), get the Explorer. Not for me though, it’s over hyped for what it is.
As someone with an 8.25inch wrist, the 36mm would just be impossibly small. That said, Rolex’s always seem to wear about 1-2mm larger than many other brands of he same measurement. I feel like this is the problem with the Sub growth. A 40mm sup wears like a 41mm already. I expect a 41mm Sub wears closer to a 42-43mm. I’d be fine with a 38mm Exp, but I do feel it should grow no bigger than 39mm.
Hi IDGuy.
Great upload.
I love both designs TBH, however it was the Smiths 1016 aesthetic that drew my eye.
I was actually talking with a friend today about the distinct possibility that the 39mm Explorers days may be numbered.
I find that a disheartening thought.
I have an 8 “ wrist but prefer smaller timepieces. Diameter doesn't bother me in the slightest - but I need a minimum of a 46-47mm lug to lug on any piece 38mm's or less in diameter- so unfortunately the Smiths 36mm Everest won't work for me. And the 40mm version just doesn't really work at all IMO.
Still, I just had to try and find out what the fuss was about. Despite how fond I am of the Explorer it's not a watch I would buy if I had the budget to do so. Yet so many who have a greater understanding of that sector of the market do buy it, and proclaim it's brilliance! Yet I'm left thinking 'really?' - you could've bought ᴛʜɪs and ᴛʜᴀᴛ, but you bought an Explorer? I find it fascinating!
Yet these are folks who handle more luxury timepieces in a month than I do in a year! They can't all be wrong!?
So, I decided to order a Tisell Explorer copy from Korea! I couldn't help it! I ʜᴀᴅ to at least try to understand what all the fuss is about!
Apart from the crown, this watch is a complete facsimile of the Rolex's dimensions.
Obviously I can't compare what I received from Tisell with a Rolex, nevertheless, the dimensions ᴅᴏ tell a story....
And the second it was on wrist I 'got it'!
Even this $250 clone had a bit of magic to it!
It was a fascinating experience - and, I have to admit that I felt just a little bit of everything that people say about the ᴡᴇᴀʀɪɴɢ experience of an Explorer; the comfort, the unobtrusivity, it only 'being there' when you need it, etc., etc.
I'll probably be crucified for this post. Don't really care. I'm well aware that a comparison between the too is...ludicrous.
But owning this cheap facsimile of the genuine article really has given me some semblance of understanding of how incredibly good the 214270 must be to own.
Cheers mate. Apologies for the 'essay'.
Anthony.
Check out the Smiths PRS-29 or even more the PRS-29AM - they are 36 but have a different shape case and have a 47mm lug to lug. I also understand there is a Smiths Navigator coming soon that has the same case.
The 1016 aesthetic does feel more "natural" to the eye I think. We're all drawn to the more "organic" designs in our day-to-day life and there's something so appealing about its typeface. My take on the Modern Explorer is that it is a great watch... but the proportions just don't sit well with me. Or well enough that I could wear it all the time. Something about it continues to bug me, some days worse than others hahaha! In the end, aesthetics in this category are so important. As much as I love the "modernness" of this model with all of the perks, she just doesn't speak to me... ask me the same question about a black bay 58 that I've just received... We're in for a wild couple of weeks, just saying ;) Thank you for your comment Anthony. Love reading these stories
@@billdenbigh8234 - I have been! Both 29 varients are sold out, so I'm eagerly awaiting the Navigator...like half the world! 🙂
@@ID-Guy - That is how I felt pre-Tisell ID, now I just... Love it.
I love the 1016 aesthetic more but the more modern version is simply a different watch.
Had the 214270 "MK2"...,something seemed not right from unboxing it. The nominal size isn't the problem. Its the size it wears...it wears almost as big as my Black Bay 41 diver visually. Just too big and almost blingy for a supposedly understated everyday watch. Also the bezel dimensions is off...sold mine and bought the 36 mm 114270.
I been noticing the trend is towards bigger watches. Even the women's watch are 36 mm or above of late. I wouldn't be surprised that the Explorer 1 at 39 mm be phase out just like the OP 39. Either a 36 mm or 41 mm. Glad I got the Explorer 1 n is a great daily watch. Be interesting to see whether there will be changes come next year.
The Everest is the natural companion for the Explorer. Makes for a perfect daily 👍🏾
Another job well done! Waiting for the Timefactors store to open ⏰
I have both the Smiths and the Rolex. They are both stunning watches and could easily be the only two watches in my watch box... and I would be perfectly happy.
That air king looks phenomenal. Great video!
There are so many of these models from the 50's and 60's with unique dials... sadly most have been claimed (or are going to lots today) Still, great seeing how Rolex dealt with their designs back in the day. And it's a pleasure Scott! Thank you so much for the comment
IDGuy - can you tell me what is that jubilee bracelet on your Smiths? I'd love to find one that fits that well
Absolutely Bill! Truth be told, I found it on eBay at least 2 years ago now... they're around, it can be hard to find them amongst everything else out there. But just keep your eyes peeled for "20mm Jubilee" and you'll be surprised ;)
Surprised you picked the black dial. I've always admired the cream dial as their more iconic look.
I have never cared for the modern dial nor 39mm case. I wish they would go back to the 1016 dial and 39mm case with drilled lugs, oh wow, Eddie has done all that in a beautiful watch called the Everest. Thanks again, Brian.
I absolutely love the modern explorer look and is definitely my dream rolex watch but it's a huge price of course.
I actually really love the modern Air King design as well! i know it's not everone's cup of tea, but i do love the green accent, brings a much more sporty feel.
Good video. I have the new 124270 and am getting my first Smiths (a Commando I might add) in the mail on Wednesday. Can’t wait to get these two beside each other.
I've got a 5500 airking explorer super p from 1957. I gave a little whoop when it was mentioned. Maybe one day will pick up a modern explorer to go with it. It couldn't be 41mm though!
Crazy how influential the 5500 reference is... and how Rolex really cross-pollinated so many dials at the time. I'd love to learn more about that history. As for the increased size Explorer... Many will be up in arms. Thank you for this Tom!
If this video came out 12 months ago would have asked if you wanted to see it to go with the explorer series. Sadly I think we could be waiting a while for that to be a possibility!
They also brought back the vintage white air king’s design in the 34mm 14200 with the white dial and black explorer markers.
Great video. I think the 39 is a great size though possibly with a 22 mm bracelet. I think it already wears like a 40 but seems too top heavy with the current width of the bracelet. Awesome points and research. Well done.
I agree! My first crit on the 39 in part 1, I mention that a 21mm bracelet would look much cleaner with such a broad, flat case. And it totally does feel top-heavy with its current format. Even the tapering bracelet feels a bit too thin at the clasp... so weird how these details impact wearing. Thanks for the comment Jonathan!
Oh now you’ve gone and made me want a Rolex and I swore I’d never consider it.
Hype, demand and everything else aside, they do have a unique charm about them. I've definitely felt that after experiencing the Explorer in my small rotation. Thanks for your comment Ronan!
If someone were to have a one watch collection, it would be the field watch. You can comfortably wear a field watch with a suit & tie to jeans and a t-shirt and all that's required is a strap/bracelet change. Another watch that field watch design is the Milgauss.
My only complaint is I wish they would up the specs on the Explorer & Milgauss line. There are watches that cost a fraction of a Rolex and have 200M water resistance and anti-reflective coating on the underside of the sapphire crystal.
Excellent summary, did not know it pulled some of its design cues from a 50’s Air King
I’ve always liked the Smith’s Over Explorer. What a great watch.
Explorer 1016 over them both... Smiths second, modern Explorer third.
Another great video! So do you believe that we could see a 36mm & 41mm this upcoming year? I would love nothing more then to see a smaller version.
The more I think about it, the less I think it'll be a reality Luis. My guess is that they'll bump the model to 41mm and Tudor will pick up the slack with a 36mm Ranger reissue of some kind (which I'd totally be on board with!) They have so many aces up their sleeves... but seeing this model scaled up more will deter lots of people I fear. Thank you for the comment, brother!
The mad lads actually did it
Great review, but I disagree about the proportions of the 214270. The winding crown looks too small and the case too bloated for the 20mm lug width. Others have said that the bezel is too bold... I agree, but don’t mind it as much. Having worn one for over a year, I finally sold it because it just felt too bold, had too much presence and was less understated that any of the 36mm versions.
As an owner of this Explorer and now a Black Bay 36, I’m seriously feeling the most accurate modern homage to the ‘true Explorer spirit’ is the modern black dial OP36 (now that the beautiful white dial is no more). This is a long and expensive journey..... 🤔
Thank you for your videos ! Stay safe 😷
Thanks a million Junior! I'd love to chat to you some more on a Sunday show in the future. Take care of yourself and your loved one's too, brother
Liked the back story watched the vids and bought one, had it less than2 weeks just did not do it for me was trying to force myself to wear it, not sure why, don't think I like homage's think I will continue with the quest for the Explorer.
Thank you, please keep the good stuff coming.
Will do, Profanity, will do! There are a handful of great reviews around the corner... It's crazy how all of these watches have just fallen into my lap recently (I'll keep it a surprise for now) ;)
Hi @Idguy, do you feel the Smith Mercedes hour hand is bit out of proportion? I feel it can add bit girth and maybe 0.5mm length to it, to be more balance and proportion with the minutes hand.....
Having Rolex next to it, Rolex has more balance hand than the Smith....
The 36 mm, the Smiths, the Everest summit.... yes all true, but the current Explorer is going to be dearly missed when they'll increase it to 41mm. This is a watch that will store your life memories for decades to come.... A life tool watch.
And many owners say the same about the piece. It's a watch that needs lots and lots of scars (as we know yours has) I hope you're enjoying the hell out of your collection Thomas!
Howdy. Fellow smiths owner 🤛🏻
More like fellow Smiths die-hard! ;) I can't get enough of them (hopefully will review the latest Everest release / update soon too)
@@ID-Guy Will you be getting both Navigators for your personal collection or just one?
The Rolex Explorer evolved to a more modernized design like the case size and dial.
It's clear to see with them side-by-side, right? There is quite a natural development between the two when we think about the "professional" watch. Thanks for your comment Tippy!
The Explorer is due for an upgrade(movement for sure)but I wonder how the now discontinued Tudor Ranger will play in what Rolex has up their sleeves??
We've all been questioning the whole Tudor Ranger thing. They have an ace up their sleeve when they (eventually) do release it. Imagine...
@@ID-Guy 39.5mm ranger with older 3-6-9 dial font using black bay 58 movement could be a logical move.
I want to ask you about the latest live show, usually it takes 3-4 days for it to be available - I think we are past 2 weeks no?
Great overall content friend! Live stream is my favourite though👌🏻👌🏻
Mind telling me where you got the bracelets I’ve seen on your PRS 25? You mention having aftermarket bracelets in a few videos.
Smiths...no doubt!!!!!
Great video!
I would like to hear your thoughts on the Tudor Heritage Ranger, a watch I feel doesn't get as much love but is just as capable and iconic as the explorer
great review !!
Anything larger than 40 is too large and heavy, I've been wanting to get the Smiths watch (missed the last couple 30 minute sales per month). For the price of a Rolex, I prefer the Grand Seiko. Wish Grand Seiko would design a similar style watch.
Great review; where can I get the jubilee bracelet for the Smiths Everest? Thx
Such great explanation! Great history also!
much better perspectiv in this video, cheers
What others straps would you put on the modern explorer?
The bracelet really is key with the modern explorer. Given the opportunity, a grey nato would probably be one of the most optimal choices. A great leather strap, maybe even a Tropic strap added into the mix? There is so much variety out there ;)
@@ID-Guy can't go wrong with nato or leather. I however would make a custom black paracord bracelet using a Cobra Knot weave. This would really emphasis the "Tool Watch" use for the Explorer. Not quite sure how Rubber would look unless you're Kevin O'Leary and put red rubber straps on everything.
Thank you for your amazing videos as always!
@@SamrayGTR /
I saw a picture of one one a leather single pass strap with this particular olive green colour. It looked fantastic.
But I reckon that it could look very good on a high quality perlon too!
this video better then before
I like the Smiths more for just being rarer.
Great comparison, both great watches. While I do like the current Explorer, I think the stretched arabics pull your eye from the hands, thus fractionally reducing instrumental clarity - I disagreee that it has perfect proportion, unlike the Smiths/1015. This is also because Rolex hands are a bit weak - both in scale and lume/polish proportion. They lack the perfection of Seiko's best, Panerai or the Omega broad arrow (eg Seamaster Trilogy). I think the 39 size is ideal, but they Explorers (like most Rolex) bigger because of the skinny hands (your eye wanders off to the stretched arabics). 41mm would be an abomination! 41mm is really too big for a non diver/chrono/flieger.
You mean Smiths/1016?
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The Smiths is a watch I'll have one day. The Explorer will not be in my collection. I love both watches a lot. It comes down to the cost. I think the 1016 has the better look for me. 37mm would be the bees knees.
I graduated from these watches!
Holy Trinity , F p Journe and Rolex Panda 🐼 only IDguy! You should move on too!!
Nice video mate
I'd love to one day Tim! Give me 10 years and I'll be there with you ;)
So some people are saying that you're the reason Eddie sold out the last batch of Everests in 4 minutes. 🤔
After "it costs a 49,- pounds" I had a ringing in my ear ...
Making it bigger will ruin it ... No one wants it larger. Any reissue has to be a few millimeters smaller . A return to 36mm would be best but 37 to 38mm would be an acceptable compromise
Btw, the new trend in watches are going smaller recently.
I'm all for that! Gimme 39mm's all day!!
Rolex clearly doesn't follow this trend
@@ID-Guy me too, 39mm is the best size for average wrist and very versatile for many size
Where can one even buy the
Never postulate that Rolex will ever bring down the size of the Explorer! They won't.
I agree, they're only going in one direction - maybe we'll see them manipulate the architecture of these pieces over time, who knows?
@@ID-Guy It seems the dinner plate aesthetic has run its course or shall soon do so. I see several watch brands scaling back from absurd 44mm+ cases and even some brands offering 38mm models or smaller. I can easily see Rolex reversing course as tastes change; after all, "There go the people. I must follow them, for I am their leader."
This came across as a Rolex Explorer review with very little reference to the Everest.
Some golden ratio going on there I'll bet
We need to include more of it in these videos, right? Looking forward to Sunday's show as always, m'boy! I hope you've had an awesome week
@@ID-Guy hope you had an awesome week as well my man! I found something interesting I'm going to have to show you...
@@ID-Guy k dude I got a tool and we need to science this
The Explorer was yet another marketing exercise by Rolex, really not a fan of the brand, tho I do acknowledge they are the masters of hype. Prefer the older version, the new one is too brash and "in your face trying to pretend to be subtle" (a poor oxymoron)
Cheers mate 👍🏻
Fairies whispering in Wisdorfs ear caused me to drop Rolex forever! I can't have that kind of story on my wrist! Smiths it is! :)
Not sure what the hype is around these smiths. Looks nothing like the original Smith's watch on Everest and now just another Rolex homage. Also, This current Smith's brand is not the same brand just re made with a completely different design using the same name but a different watch company (or singular person) trying to cash in on someone else's brand heritage. Has nothing to do whatsoever with the original. Bracelet transition to case on the Smiths is awful!
Biver bought Blanpain; nothing different! I wish I owned the Smiths name! :)
You sound mildly similar to the guy who runs the 'Mindsmash' channel with the way you narrate the videos and the tone/choice of words you use.
It cost £49 when hot dogs were a dime at the ballpark.
Hot dogs now cost $13.
The Explorer should therfore be $6,370.
Eh oh going to 41??? NO!!!
I mean, it's a part of the "Oyster Perpetual" line... I'm a bit scared of the thought too...
@@ID-Guy oh well. I rather just get a colorful dial if goes 41mm. What’s the point of the entire entry sports line ? E1 or AK with the new movement if the case size is the same. Pay more for a dial?
So, who copied who?
Im selling my 36mm everest black dial in the UK if anybody is interested..
The 369 is a copy from Omega Seamaster 1948, so unoriginal
Unfortunately the fellow that runs Smiths is a real piece of work who bought up some old names and maintains a vice grip control over the message boards he hosts and has literally gone out of his way to try and publicly shame folks who decide to sell his watches on.
On top of that. The sales mechanism on his site is even more Byzantine than trying to acquire a Rolex. Go ahead and try. You’ll have to log in during a two minute window every other Sunday and hope for the best. It’s as if he’s trying to copy the artificial rarity of the Rolex.... hypothetically.
The Rolex may not be the first to Everest. But at least it actually is Rolex. Smiths in its entirety is a fiction as a brand as currently presented.
I'm sure Eddie is unconcerned at your criticism. He seems to have more sales than he can handle.
@@simoncrooke1644 I agree. In exactly the way Rolex is unconcerned with what anyone else thinks because they can too sell more watches through false scarcity. Coincidence ?
@@alansmith4395 In the case of Rolex, a large established company, it possibly is false scarcity. In the case of Timefactors, a small one man operation producing small batches of watches, probably not.
What you described is quite the same as when Jean Claude Biver purchased the name Blancpain! Love my Smiths and the story behind it, regardless of who purchased the name!
I’m like 666 😱🤣
The Smiths is isn't a true Smiths, and guess what, it isn't a Rolex Explorer either!
Half of your video is talking about the Rolex which 99% ppl could never get their hands on….what a freaking wasted of my time! When are you going to talk about the Smiths? You just another Rolley fanboy….