have to say, my personal favorite upgrade for the slash is my cooling fan setup. I have an ESC fan, and a dual fan/heatsink for the motor. I run on 3s lipos, so this really helps against the frequent heating issues I used to have
I run mostly stock parts and replace as they break. I almost never break the steering knuckles or rear axle carrier. I’d suggest a lcg before all that in my opinion. Changed my entire truck driving experience.
We got the brushed models for our three sons last Christmas 2019, they had the motors burned up a few hours after they opened them, kept burning up motors, the trucks sat all summer, got them the brushless motors this Christmas, bad ass, I also got myself a 3s vxl slash 4x4 it rocks
Need to let the motors cool down. Use heat sinks also to avoid burning your motors. I used my motors for bashing and only replaced once after several years of use
The only upgrades I did to my Slash are suspension, smaller spur gear and bigger pinion gear, and upgraded to a brushless system. I'm happy with how it turned out
Paid $240 for brushed 4x4 version and installed the brushless kit velineon VXL 3s for $150. Already have the red aluminum shock caps. Now with all these spare parts might just buy another chassis and build one to sell lol
#1 Hop up part: Brushless Motor and ESC (GoolRC set $50 on amazon, works great for me so far) #2 Hop up part: Better Tires (Trenchers or Badlands) $70 #3 Hop up part: Proline Body Mount kit (For tire clearance) $15 #4 Hop Up part: Zippy 2s Lipo from Hobbyking $15-20 bucks a pop for a hard case lipo #5 Nice charger, many smart chargers you can get for less than $50 Now you have yourself a badass 2WD slash :D
All true but Not the Goolrc system... rather get the goolrc 3900kv red motor and A hobbywing quicrun esc, both 60$.. mine has been running for more then A year..
I have a 4x4 and 2wd slash and these upgrades made the Slash a totally different truck. Everything else gets replaced with rpm parts if they break aluminum hubs front and rear aluminum shocks caps or whole shocks aluminum shock towers (the handling difference is noticeable) Lipo battery and a brushless system
There's a huge difference from running 2s to 3s also. On 2s it doesn't need much if anything besides maybe an axle upgrade if you're bashing hard. On 3s it's lots of upgrades.
Have had my traxxas for over 3 years and have crashed at 30 mph and had ran over by a car. Still have stock plastic shock caps. The whole front end is still stock. I would reccomend the rear aluminum bearing holders and steel drive shafts if upgrading the motor. Lipo batteries are much better for long lasting drives and are very durable. Front and rear control arms take a beating
Tom Johnston I have rpm nerf bars. my stock nerf bars broke in a month. ice been rolling over my slash for 3-4 months now, and the rpm's haven't broken yet.
@@screamingbag8940 the problem with making everything metal is it ends up being too strong and sending all that stress inwards. It's much cheaper to replace a broken a-arm than a broke chassis, for example
Great video for people that don't know what to upgrade : ), i got a slash 2wd which is upgraded fully ( about 5% stock parts), where can i buy your magazine? Thanks
AUSSIE LEGEND The company that produced the magazine, Maplegate Media closed. The website and social media pages were transferred to a new company Icon RC Media. Icon is not associated with Maplegate or the print magazine.
RC Bulldog I just usually don't get aluminum parts because they bend. Then they are hard to take out. But if you get plastic parts (RPM parts), they snap sometimes, but then they are easy to take out.
I was drifting my mates raptor down my road and did a drift and hit a pothole sideways and it flipped like 20 times at 30mph and it snapped the steering piece and I got him the metal anodised ones and it’s perfect
I've had a couple of slashes and for me the top three are to just buy 5 or so of the regular traxxas batteries with a Duratrax Onyx charger so you never have down time. the onyx charger is fast and works better than anything in the price range. upgraded shocks or simply just changing out the oil in the shocks and number three is changing the pinion to a higher tooth for more speed. also in the long run its good to have a couple of the titan 12t motors for spare they don't last forever and especially if you're running multiple batteries in a row often.
i completely agree, my truck came complete plastic (of course) and i kept breacking so many parts from the softest hits, so finally i upgraded to all aluminum, well what you can get aliminum and have not broke a part yet
Making parts stronger is wise but when you strengthen one part you send the weak point from that part to another. Sometimes its cheaper for certain parts to break rather than others. The plastic on these Traxxas seem to be of quality material and dont break too easily due to it not being brittle. It might be beneficial for some ppl who live in cold regions to go over the suspension of the truck with a hair dryer before running it. Sounds strange but it will help it remain flexible while in the cold. Often times aluminum parts dont break but they bend and are hard to get back to stock shape thus throwing the alignment off and you having to replace them anyways. potato patato.
I have $1500 in my Traxxas Slash 4x4 and the best thing I bought was the Tekno m6 driveshaft conversion. All other driveshafts are junk. I've tried them all. Add rpm a arms and you're almost bash proof. The only thing I've had to buy after that is wheels and tires.
Jarred Richardson my slash started as a Slash 4x4 ultimate from Horizon Hobby. Once I went to 3s every stub axle broke until I found Tekno m6. I also had to switch to an STRC chassis to fix over heating problems even with a Maclan fan upgrade. More air flow through the chassis but it added 2lbs so I put losi 8ight 2.0 shocks to compensate. I also switched to a castle 1415 2400kv with a 5mm shaft after bending the stock vileneon 3500 shaft. STRC is coming out with a 2nd version of the aluminum lcg chassis which is lighter than the first.
I went through a ton of combos to get the fastest basher I could have therefore my receipts from start to finish are up there. Way more than I thought I would ever spend on an RC.
No point in changing to aluminum shock caps if you are do it right an swap the hole shock. What to hop up really depends on what your going to do. One thing I noticed a lot of guys are upgrading the power blocks. Mine is running at about 80mph top speed. I started noticing the area of plastic that hold the bearings like in the steering knuckles rear casters the bearings started to get hot an warp the plastic mostly the bearing in the diff housing making my diff gears bind a little. Switched that at to aluminum.
I don't agree... It is all a matter of driving style... Depending on how you drive your truck depends on what needs to be upgraded. You can't say that a part needs to be upgraded, or that it should be done... It's a matter of driving and braking parts... Whatever you break, you then upgrade that part... People that don't do heavy ramping, don't need to upgrade their shocks... People that drive heavy may need to upgrade the arms, but people that drive softly may not. Each person drives different, and should upgrade different parts
The three suggested aluminum upgrades are what many tracks allow as Spec Slash class racing upgrades because the parts are known to break in controlled racing situations. If they known to break under the control of a skilled driver than they are more likely to be broken by a basher. Therefore they are the obvious 3 first parts to suggest to upgrade. The NiMh battery and charger included with kits are known as basic. After speaking with 3 shops in the area, they are among the first things they tell customers to upgrade. Of course everyone should choose their own upgrade path, but some people like suggestions and what we've suggested is a great starting point.
I’d say one the first things you need to upgrade if you live in a hot area are the drivelines because they will melt and break all the time if you run it hard
Hey, i have the traxxas slash too, and the same body. But my robby gordon body is touching the front 2 wheels???? This looks ugly and is annoying, do you have any advice?
Question 1: Does the Slash go on sale and when does that usually happens? Question 2: Is it better to buy a 4wd or a 2wd or is that up to the buyer to make that decision.
Does the Ultimate come with steel/aluminum instead of plastic? I got steel and aluminum upgrades for the axles/carriers/driveshaft and left the a arms and stuff plastic to absorb impact and soaked them in 94 to be durable. I broke a carrier or stub every single time I took it out and now it's practically unbreakable! Idk what version it would be considered now though.
Yes... But go RPM plastic! They are super thick and strong and most important, they are FLEXIBLE ! The aluminum are to stiff and will make everything else it is connected to WEAKER. Something must give! As for the shocks they are still conected to plastic threads and the shocks suck! You will know why after you replace them and see how better they handle in EVERYWAY!!! I bought 2 stage Pro Line. I bought a much better double charger and converted to Deans. I am pissed what TRAXXIS did with their proprietary connectors with the built in balancers and so is every serious RC person I meet!!! If you want more fun and are more experienced go 3 cell! Much more fun and I have had no extra wear and tear except my tires LOL
What about a king headz motor mount and ditch the traxxas springs for some losi springs. They would be on my list over a crappy traxxas battery and charger!
To anyone reading this, do NOT get the Traxxas lipo batteries if you are running brushless. The "C" rating is just too low at 25, causing the batteries to puff. Just get some Floureon batteries (better quality) and an adapter.
Why do I have to get special pins for the aluminum casters if I don't get the aluminum a arms? It's the same price for the aluminum arms and pins and just the pins seperately... What should I do? I upgraded all but a couple parts (a arms) because I treated them and they absorb the impact and the aluminum ones don't!
I'm not so sure about that. A few years back, I got a pair of MIP C-CVD driveshafts for my rustler and I broke a stub axle in less than one battery pack going over a jump not even 2 feet high. The truck landed on the sidewalls of the tires and snapped the stub axle right at the drive pin. I wasn't even on the throttle when I landed. I like to use the Slash 4x4 rear driveshafts (traxxas part number 6852X) as an inexpensive upgrade. They're a bit bigger than the stock 2WD driveshafts and have worked well for me.
I think The Plastic rpm rear hubs would be A better option then the aluminum....Same with The front.. I would Go with plastic rpm All Around... also the traxxas charger are lipo battery is completely junk And overpriced... I rather get A flysky charger and Few gens ace or turnigy lipo batteries..
Guys don't use rpm axle carriers on your slash. I speak from experience, the pins can slide out quite easily and ruin your race. either stock or aluminum axle carriers are the way to go
BeastMode_ Bree depend on what you want to do 2wd can drift while 4wd is well planted and gets more speed in the corners. Personally I'm biased to 2wd it's a whole lot more fun
I own a Traxxas Slash and a TRX-4 , but I will never purchase a Traxxas Lipo battery or Traxxas battery charger. Spectrum Smart charger is the best battery charger money can buy. You can charge any battery with it unless it’s a Traxxas Lipo battery ,which I don’t own any of.
thanks for being quick and to the point, so many people draaaggggg the hell out of their videos
I COOOOULD tell you the info on what you should upgrade but let me tell u my life story first 😂
have to say, my personal favorite upgrade for the slash is my cooling fan setup. I have an ESC fan, and a dual fan/heatsink for the motor. I run on 3s lipos, so this really helps against the frequent heating issues I used to have
I run mostly stock parts and replace as they break. I almost never break the steering knuckles or rear axle carrier. I’d suggest a lcg before all that in my opinion. Changed my entire truck driving experience.
i broke a control arm and thats it
We got the brushed models for our three sons last Christmas 2019, they had the motors burned up a few hours after they opened them, kept burning up motors, the trucks sat all summer, got them the brushless motors this Christmas, bad ass, I also got myself a 3s vxl slash 4x4 it rocks
Need to let the motors cool down. Use heat sinks also to avoid burning your motors. I used my motors for bashing and only replaced once after several years of use
I have been into hobby grade rc about 5 years now and have a few vehicles but my first was a slash 4x4 and it's still my favorite basher.
ive launched my slash a good 15 feet up and nothing broke with all stock plastic parts...
Lord_Granola stock parts are great
Thank you for showing durability upgrades. I just bought 2 of these for my son and me and we already got that charger and lipo batteries.
I own the slash Fox and I'm very impressed that the slash in the video uses a brushed motor and runs very good
The only upgrades I did to my Slash are suspension, smaller spur gear and bigger pinion gear, and upgraded to a brushless system. I'm happy with how it turned out
The aluminum axle carriers are a big help! I always have to fix them on mine. Its almost like there is a weakness there!
Just watched a 4 minute commercial for traxxas hop up parts. Well played
A commercial would never say what breaks.
cyberpunk64bit super glue on the shock caps? Great idea to never be able to service them.
@@rcdriver It would if they say to use their own stronger parts.
RCDriver_Online damn whelp I’m not subbing or liking I’m dis liking
@@wozzy9704 lol why? he didnt do anything
First thing I would’ve done was upgraded to brushless lol😂
Lol, exactly what I did!
Cleetz Plays it isn’t waterproof tho
Better just buy the brushless version
Yeah my slash was brushed it burned out in 2 hours still waiting for a brushless in mail
Paid $240 for brushed 4x4 version and installed the brushless kit velineon VXL 3s for $150. Already have the red aluminum shock caps. Now with all these spare parts might just buy another chassis and build one to sell lol
#1 Hop up part: Brushless Motor and ESC (GoolRC set $50 on amazon, works great for me so far)
#2 Hop up part: Better Tires (Trenchers or Badlands) $70
#3 Hop up part: Proline Body Mount kit
(For tire clearance) $15
#4 Hop Up part: Zippy 2s Lipo from Hobbyking $15-20 bucks a pop for a hard case lipo
#5 Nice charger, many smart chargers you can get for less than $50
Now you have yourself a badass 2WD slash :D
All true but Not the Goolrc system... rather get the goolrc 3900kv red motor and A hobbywing quicrun esc, both 60$.. mine has been running for more then A year..
I have a 4x4 and 2wd slash and these upgrades made the Slash a totally different truck. Everything else gets replaced with rpm parts if they break
aluminum hubs front and rear
aluminum shocks caps or whole shocks
aluminum shock towers (the handling difference is noticeable)
Lipo battery and a brushless system
There's a huge difference from running 2s to 3s also. On 2s it doesn't need much if anything besides maybe an axle upgrade if you're bashing hard. On 3s it's lots of upgrades.
I’ve literally never blown a slash plastic shock cap and I own a brushed slash. I did install a lcg chassis and a brushless motor.
rpm parts, lcg chassis, proline body post, proline transmission, proline shocks
😃👌
Matthew Snell half of that is bad for bashing and half is bad for racing, that's a bad combo...
There is a proline transmission??
First and most important upgrade is the proline VW body
Yes
Just ordered one
Ys mine fucking snapped in half just dropping it from 4 feet 😂
Have had my traxxas for over 3 years and have crashed at 30 mph and had ran over by a car. Still have stock plastic shock caps. The whole front end is still stock. I would reccomend the rear aluminum bearing holders and steel drive shafts if upgrading the motor. Lipo batteries are much better for long lasting drives and are very durable. Front and rear control arms take a beating
That intro 😂 what I say every time I flip it or it does 5 cartwheels
yur the best rc car utuber out ther, im my opinyon. i know i cant spell lol
After going crazy with mods and power i put it back to stock. Its fun stock spec. Driving slow car fast is fun 😆
Thanks for a great video! I recently purchased a 2wd slash vxl and want to upgrade to a better, faster steering servo. Any recommendations?
Just use Rpm Products
Tom Johnston I have rpm nerf bars. my stock nerf bars broke in a month. ice been rolling over my slash for 3-4 months now, and the rpm's haven't broken yet.
i just use aluminum there better than rpm
Screamingbag aluminum is better for racing, rpm is better for bashing
@@screamingbag8940 Not really... Rpm Plastic Stuff Is far better when bashing
@@screamingbag8940 the problem with making everything metal is it ends up being too strong and sending all that stress inwards. It's much cheaper to replace a broken a-arm than a broke chassis, for example
7seconds into the video and I can’t even breath XD
Great video for people that don't know what to upgrade : ), i got a slash 2wd which is upgraded fully ( about 5% stock parts), where can i buy your magazine? Thanks
Thanks! Still have the stock front bulkhead on your truck ;-) We don't offer a magazine anymore, but we're holding onto the name just in case. :)
Ok, my front bulk head is from pro-line btw
AUSSIE LEGEND The company that produced the magazine, Maplegate Media closed. The website and social media pages were transferred to a new company Icon RC Media. Icon is not associated with Maplegate or the print magazine.
I don't use aluminum parts because it actually weakens the plastic parts around the aluminum part.RPM is the way to go for overall strength.
RC Bulldog fr rpm is what I use
RC Bulldog every rpm part I have put on mime have bent or broken easier than the stock parts. yes the a-arms too.
Bradley Kistner do you make them glow before you drive
RC Bulldog I just usually don't get aluminum parts because they bend. Then they are hard to take out. But if you get plastic parts (RPM parts), they snap sometimes, but then they are easy to take out.
RC Bulldog I really want to Traxxas Slash but all I can spend is about 180 do you have any other suggestions
I was drifting my mates raptor down my road and did a drift and hit a pothole sideways and it flipped like 20 times at 30mph and it snapped the steering piece and I got him the metal anodised ones and it’s perfect
Are they good for beginners?
I was told by several people that Lipo was bad for the brushed motor. Will it wear it out quickly?
low CG chassis?
Mark Samek have you put it on?
jonathan harwell
I have, it completely changed the way it handles , i can occasionally slide through corners rather than barrel rolling:)
I like the High CG chassis because they don’t bottom out as bad
@@owenringwald4935 yeah, I'm debating whether to get one because I drive mine off-road and over sticks and I think it will get stuck.
Will you get in trouble for driving a rc on the bmx track?
Not exactly what I was looking for but good vid for beginners.
metal drive shafts is a must
What would suggest for a first rc truck?
I've had a couple of slashes and for me the top three are to just buy 5 or so of the regular traxxas batteries with a Duratrax Onyx charger so you never have down time. the onyx charger is fast and works better than anything in the price range. upgraded shocks or simply just changing out the oil in the shocks and number three is changing the pinion to a higher tooth for more speed. also in the long run its good to have a couple of the titan 12t motors for spare they don't last forever and especially if you're running multiple batteries in a row often.
Love my slash... I 100% agree with going all aluminum where possible, especially where its cold. If possible, go brushless...
The springs would be #1!
Mine is bone stock and I get second or third most races. Two guys are on another lvl but I’m king of the plebes.
nice video, upgrade parts are always nice to have
This helped me out so much! Thanks (not sarcasm)
Do you have any suggestions for the VXL 2 wheel drive?
i completely agree, my truck came complete plastic (of course) and i kept breacking so many parts from the softest hits, so finally i upgraded to all aluminum, well what you can get aliminum and have not broke a part yet
If i choose to get a Slash 4x4, I will upgrade to all aluminum. Hopefully this will help me :)
Making parts stronger is wise but when you strengthen one part you send the weak point from that part to another. Sometimes its cheaper for certain parts to break rather than others. The plastic on these Traxxas seem to be of quality material and dont break too easily due to it not being brittle. It might be beneficial for some ppl who live in cold regions to go over the suspension of the truck with a hair dryer before running it. Sounds strange but it will help it remain flexible while in the cold. Often times aluminum parts dont break but they bend and are hard to get back to stock shape thus throwing the alignment off and you having to replace them anyways. potato patato.
Great video! I think RPM caster blocks should get a mention. Is there an upgrade for the caster block pins?
JayHag's R/C RPM caster blocks are a great upgrade too, perhaps we should do a 6-10 hop up list. Pro-Line makes a great pin set.
I would say drive axles would be in my top 10 upgrades as well
I use the hardened kingpins from STRC and even with my stock caster blocks, I haven't had an issue.
hi.. if you get the sway bar.. do you still need to change to aluminum shock caps?
Do you recommend a metal transmission case
Fun video!!
Thanks 🎉
I have $1500 in my Traxxas Slash 4x4 and the best thing I bought was the Tekno m6 driveshaft conversion. All other driveshafts are junk. I've tried them all. Add rpm a arms and you're almost bash proof. The only thing I've had to buy after that is wheels and tires.
Lucas Wasley were did you get yours and all your parts from?
Jarred Richardson my slash started as a Slash 4x4 ultimate from Horizon Hobby. Once I went to 3s every stub axle broke until I found Tekno m6. I also had to switch to an STRC chassis to fix over heating problems even with a Maclan fan upgrade. More air flow through the chassis but it added 2lbs so I put losi 8ight 2.0 shocks to compensate. I also switched to a castle 1415 2400kv with a 5mm shaft after bending the stock vileneon 3500 shaft. STRC is coming out with a 2nd version of the aluminum lcg chassis which is lighter than the first.
I went through a ton of combos to get the fastest basher I could have therefore my receipts from start to finish are up there. Way more than I thought I would ever spend on an RC.
Thanks For This Video I Diden't Know What I Should Upgrade
Hey I put my integy shocks on mine but the rpm nuckles are the rpm knuckles stronger too than stock?!
No point in changing to aluminum shock caps if you are do it right an swap the hole shock. What to hop up really depends on what your going to do. One thing I noticed a lot of guys are upgrading the power blocks. Mine is running at about 80mph top speed. I started noticing the area of plastic that hold the bearings like in the steering knuckles rear casters the bearings started to get hot an warp the plastic mostly the bearing in the diff housing making my diff gears bind a little. Switched that at to aluminum.
If it breaks then you upgrade, my top 5 were the first to break, a-arms, spur gear, driveshaft, shocks, then body mounts because I hate those clips
love that body. i have the same but it's beat from years of use. of course it's discontinued so i can't find another one:(
I don't agree... It is all a matter of driving style... Depending on how you drive your truck depends on what needs to be upgraded. You can't say that a part needs to be upgraded, or that it should be done... It's a matter of driving and braking parts... Whatever you break, you then upgrade that part... People that don't do heavy ramping, don't need to upgrade their shocks... People that drive heavy may need to upgrade the arms, but people that drive softly may not. Each person drives different, and should upgrade different parts
The three suggested aluminum upgrades are what many tracks allow as Spec Slash class racing upgrades because the parts are known to break in controlled racing situations. If they known to break under the control of a skilled driver than they are more likely to be broken by a basher. Therefore they are the obvious 3 first parts to suggest to upgrade. The NiMh battery and charger included with kits are known as basic. After speaking with 3 shops in the area, they are among the first things they tell customers to upgrade. Of course everyone should choose their own upgrade path, but some people like suggestions and what we've suggested is a great starting point.
Sweet Rc right
I’d say one the first things you need to upgrade if you live in a hot area are the drivelines because they will melt and break all the time if you run it hard
Sweet Rc well said
Hey, i have the traxxas slash too, and the same body. But my robby gordon body is touching the front 2 wheels????
This looks ugly and is annoying, do you have any advice?
Is a Velineon brushless system considered an upgrade? Because that's a must.
Levi Wiebe Yes, it is a good upgrade for brushed RTR's and would be in out Top 10 of picks.
Levi Wiebe you can get a way more potent brushless, with a programmable ESC that is 3s capable for a the same money if not cheaper.
Every part you upgrade just transfers the impact to the next weakest part. You are gonna break something no matter what.
what is the best battery for a traxxas slash 4x4 premium im street racing primarily
Question 1: Does the Slash go on sale and when does that usually happens? Question 2: Is it better to buy a 4wd or a 2wd or is that up to the buyer to make that decision.
The 2wd is about $230 and the 4wd is about $399 they are always for sale.
I'd say aluminum front castor blocks before spindles.
I have a slash , any ideas on the best racing motor,
So whats with the slash 4x4 ultimate? I just dont know it which kind of slash do i need to buy. Sorry newbie here
How about a brushless system?
Does the Ultimate come with steel/aluminum instead of plastic? I got steel and aluminum upgrades for the axles/carriers/driveshaft and left the a arms and stuff plastic to absorb impact and soaked them in 94 to be durable.
I broke a carrier or stub every single time I took it out and now it's practically unbreakable!
Idk what version it would be considered now though.
I like the orange offroad van on the wall behind you, what car is it?
Does the 3 cell lipo battery work the stock s Traxxas slash 2wd electronic speed control?
I'm going to buy a slash 4x4 , now I might pay the extra for the ultimate that comes with the upgraded parts
Does it come with ball bearings on the axles?
where do you get the steering spindles i cant find them
Yes... But go RPM plastic! They are super thick and strong and most important, they are FLEXIBLE ! The aluminum are to stiff and will make everything else it is connected to WEAKER. Something must give! As for the shocks they are still conected to plastic threads and the shocks suck! You will know why after you replace them and see how better they handle in EVERYWAY!!! I bought 2 stage Pro Line. I bought a much better double charger and converted to Deans. I am pissed what TRAXXIS did with their proprietary connectors with the built in balancers and so is every serious RC person I meet!!! If you want more fun and are more experienced go 3 cell! Much more fun and I have had no extra wear and tear except my tires LOL
Lol really wish I saw this vid when I got mine years ago I broke all of the first 4 things you said, but at least now I have all of these parts lol
What about a king headz motor mount and ditch the traxxas springs for some losi springs.
They would be on my list over a crappy traxxas battery and charger!
To anyone reading this, do NOT get the Traxxas lipo batteries if you are running brushless. The "C" rating is just too low at 25, causing the batteries to puff. Just get some Floureon batteries (better quality) and an adapter.
Why do I have to get special pins for the aluminum casters if I don't get the aluminum a arms? It's the same price for the aluminum arms and pins and just the pins seperately...
What should I do? I upgraded all but a couple parts (a arms) because I treated them and they absorb the impact and the aluminum ones don't!
One problem with aluminum is it bends
What spur gear brand do you suggest for a 2wd ecx ruckus
Would getting metal driveshafts make them more durable
I'm not so sure about that. A few years back, I got a pair of MIP C-CVD driveshafts for my rustler and I broke a stub axle in less than one battery pack going over a jump not even 2 feet high. The truck landed on the sidewalls of the tires and snapped the stub axle right at the drive pin. I wasn't even on the throttle when I landed. I like to use the Slash 4x4 rear driveshafts (traxxas part number 6852X) as an inexpensive upgrade. They're a bit bigger than the stock 2WD driveshafts and have worked well for me.
So this is the official Traxxas channel?
Have never broke aluminum axle!...But replaced the plastics for 2 years!....then I quit being cheap! Losing a race for broken axle sux!
I think The Plastic rpm rear hubs would be A better option then the aluminum....Same with The front.. I would Go with plastic rpm All Around... also the traxxas charger are lipo battery is completely junk And overpriced... I rather get A flysky charger and Few gens ace or turnigy lipo batteries..
I had a problem with the bottom spring retainers
I only put the aftermarket axles
Can u pls tell me about that yellow van body behind u on the wall ... manufacturer ???
My first upgrade is to upgrade EVERYTHING
I highly dont suggest aluminum hubs as my bearing have melted into this
Guys don't use rpm axle carriers on your slash. I speak from experience, the pins can slide out quite easily and ruin your race. either stock or aluminum axle carriers are the way to go
I just go with rpm because I want mine to be as light as possible for when I go to the track
should I buy a traxxas slash 2wd or traxxas slash 4×4?
BeastMode_ Bree depend on what you want to do 2wd can drift while 4wd is well planted and gets more speed in the corners. Personally I'm biased to 2wd it's a whole lot more fun
Z71 Transporter the 2wd it alot more fun to you the 4x4 is more fun for me
😂 haha the beginning was funny😂
oof, i just broke my bearing carrier yesterday. I'm gonna get some aluminum ones instead
I would add Aluminum Caster Blocks to the list
Great tip!
Also need better motor and tires and the things that hold that aluminium part at front
Have to add aluminum steering bellcranks to the list.
Great suggestion that would probably be in our Top 10. Thanks for watching.
Upgrade No.6: HOBBYWING MAX 8 2200 KV COMBO 18/90 GEARING WITH TWIN 3S LIPOS IN SERIES
caster blocks?
2:00
I don’t remember what the part is called but replace the part that holds the piece he’s talking about with aluminum too
Pro line shocks are the best
Yup, Pro-Line makes some great shocks.
I own a Traxxas Slash and a TRX-4 , but I will never purchase a Traxxas Lipo battery or Traxxas battery charger. Spectrum Smart charger is the best battery charger money can buy. You can charge any battery with it unless it’s a Traxxas Lipo battery ,which I don’t own any of.
If i have a 3000mah battery. I can put a 5500mah battery? Or i need to upgrade something else to put a bigger battery?
5800mah**** and i’m running NiMH battery, i can put a lipo one?
I’m not familiar with rc cars