I’m sure you’ve already returned the gun to your customer, but I have an 11-48 and had the same issue. I was able to track down an original owners manual for it and it calls for motor oil (30wt if I recall correctly) on the recoil spring, bushing, and magazine tube. Mine runs flawlessly with the motor oil. Probably worth sharing with your customer before trying to track down a new bushing.
I'll do that, and yeah after cleaning I polished the tube and coated in oil and it ran perfect. But isn't it funny that using something like motor oil was common back then.
@@RustyGuns yeah pretty much if it’s clean and has some kind of lube in there these guns will run great. I did notice it’s a lot softer shooting using the motor oil vs regular gun oil. I’ve even experimented using grease on the bushing to slow it down for heavier loads and it seems to work really well. And yeah it’s crazy how simple things could be back then. Now they’d probably spec some kind of specialized lubricant nobody carries
I have the Sportsman-48 (dated Oct. 1948) and learned fast that the recoil spring and such needs the 30W to keep it running smooth. It also has a custom Pachmayr recoil pad and a ventilated Poly-Choke. The gun shoots great.
Got mine from my father for my 40th birthday, runs smooth as all hell, never had an issue other than a sore shoulder. It's from 58 and I believe they actually stopped making them in 62 not 68.
@@RustyGuns an old gun from your old man is a hell of a gift. He gifted me a gen 1 glock 17 with a nice SAI package that he bought from years ago for fathers day lol. Can't wait to see what's next.
They also produced them under the name Mohawk 48. They were built with the leftover 11-48 and Sportsman 48 parts between 1970 and 1975. After the introduction of the model 1100. They were sold to big box stores like KMart.
The model 11 has a brass friction ring in that the beveled end facing the barrel lug for heavier loads and then turned around for lighter loads, the 11-48 friction ring is similar but modified to be self adjusting but make sure it's orientated correctly when reassembling. When cleaning the gun I would use solvent and 0000 steel wool and make sure the ring is cleaned off of any carbon and also wipe down the inside of the barrel lug that it fits into. Also the recoil spring might be weak. These older guns can be a bit finicky with whatever loads you were feeding them though. Now I want one!
These run great with the friction bushing but, do require cleaning and lubrication. Rather than removing or modifying the friction bushing I would recommend a complete teardown and cleaning. During the process remove the stock then the recoil spring. Give the recoil spring and tube a good cleaning and LIGHT lubrication then reassemble. Never had one not run after this process. Make sure you get the stock fit back correctly and that it is tight. If you don't, the recoil operation of this shotgun will crack the stock at the receiver. The nut that holds the stock on requires the use of a large flat blade screw driver and if installed properly will be tight. I made a tool with a driver inserted in a pipe that allows me to use a wrench or socket and maintain a bite on the nut. The bushing is there for a reason. This shotgun is not like the A5 or Model 11 and does not have the rings that are turned for lighter or heavier loads. Understand that the basis behind this is that any 11-48 is going to be an old gun. Likely, it has sit quite a while as most were grandpa's gun and there's a good chance he used a lubricant that over time gets a little sticky. A good cleaning and lube goes a long way toward proper operation. The original owners manuals call for using light weight motor oils. We have many options for better lubricants today. Standard motor oils are actually pretty dirty. I've had really good luck using very light coats of synthetic 5w-30 on moving parts. A LITTLE BIT GOES A LONG WAY!
I found one at a gun store in ‘19 for 150$ out the door. It was hanging out with a bunch of “junk” shotguns with names I’d never heard of before. I wasn’t sure about it, I know a teensy bit about guns so I knew that with that name at the price it couldn’t be gas operated. So I gently pushed down on the barrel to see if my suspicions were correct. Sure enough, it was a spring loaded piece. I had a savage (browning A-5 copy) that had been run over by a truck. It had feeding problems. I didn’t trust it, but I pushed the barrel down all the way and it locked the slide back. I took a chance and bought it. We’ve been in love ever since…
I love my 11-48 it was passed on from my great grandfather to my grandfather and to my father ,then me and I never have an issue with it ,,only the shell lotch goth broken and I replace it
These guns are recoil operated, the recoil spring is on the magazine tube with a brass bushing that is used to make the gun cycle with high or low pressure loads. Turn the bushing over and try again.
I recently acquired the same gun from a grandfather who passed. It’s having the same issues. Can you do another video that is more detailed? Maybe a break down and explanation on the friction ring?
One thing to try first to clean the gun throughout. Make sure the magazine tube is free of any small burrs or any type of build up. Then oil the tube well, this can often times fix the problem. But unfortunately I sent this gun back to owner. So may take a while before I see it again.
You can reconfigure the friction rings for heavy or light loads. For heavier loads put both rings on the end of the spring towards the muzzle end. For lighter loads put the smaller ring at the end of the spring towards the trigger (beveled side towards the trigger) and the put the spring back on and put the larger ring on after.
Gotcha, but went ahead and polished the ring and tube. Lubed it and has been working perfect now. But I'll keep that idea in mind if I run across it again.
@@RustyGuns I hst noticed I had a typo in my comment...but yeah I got mine from my dad..I always saw him use it for turkee hunting so its sentimental. But I realy enjoy mine. I wish the barrel was alot shorter but I dnt dare cut it down because of it being dads old gun but you never know. To bad about the barrel limits I'd be cool super short too. Lol thanx for making the vidio there is not much on yputube about them in much depth..I dnt shoot it as much as I'd like but as a kid alota cans got shredded lol👍👍
I found one at a gun store for 150$ out the door. It was hanging out with a bunch of “junk” shotguns with names I’d never heard of before. I wasn’t sure about it, I know a teensy bit about guns so I knew that with that price it couldn’t be gas operated. So I gently pushed down on the barrel to see if my suspicions were correct it was a spring loaded piece. I had a savage (browning A-5 copy) that had been run over by a truck. It had feeding problems. I didn’t trust it, but I pushed the barrel down all the way and it locked the slide back. I took a chance and bought it. We’ve been in love ever since…
@@codyprice0295 that's awsome..they are great..now that I'm getting older and don't need the newest gun or car I gave cone to apriciate other things and experience more..guns and life in general..sad the way guns are demonized...it can teach responsibility if done correctly as I'm sure you know..thanx for the comment 😀
@@codyprice0295 I got mine from my dad and were not rich so it's the only semi automatic shotguns I own..they have a charm to em for sure..thanx again for the response..
It's located between the barrel lug and spring that is over the magazine tube. I polished the magazine tube and oiled real well and that did the trick. In the comments someone also noted in the owners manual it actually calls for 30w oil for this area.
I’m sure you’ve already returned the gun to your customer, but I have an 11-48 and had the same issue. I was able to track down an original owners manual for it and it calls for motor oil (30wt if I recall correctly) on the recoil spring, bushing, and magazine tube. Mine runs flawlessly with the motor oil. Probably worth sharing with your customer before trying to track down a new bushing.
I'll do that, and yeah after cleaning I polished the tube and coated in oil and it ran perfect. But isn't it funny that using something like motor oil was common back then.
@@RustyGuns yeah pretty much if it’s clean and has some kind of lube in there these guns will run great. I did notice it’s a lot softer shooting using the motor oil vs regular gun oil. I’ve even experimented using grease on the bushing to slow it down for heavier loads and it seems to work really well.
And yeah it’s crazy how simple things could be back then. Now they’d probably spec some kind of specialized lubricant nobody carries
I have the Sportsman-48 (dated Oct. 1948) and learned fast that the recoil spring and such needs the 30W to keep it running smooth. It also has a custom Pachmayr recoil pad and a ventilated Poly-Choke. The gun shoots great.
I use STP oil treatment, it's the thickest oil I've found and lasts twice as long.
@@wizardofahhhs759 Thats a really good idea, I think I have some marvel mystery oil in the shop which is probably similar, I'll have to give it a try!
Got mine from my father for my 40th birthday, runs smooth as all hell, never had an issue other than a sore shoulder. It's from 58 and I believe they actually stopped making them in 62 not 68.
Nice congrats on the best kind of present...a gun 👊
@@RustyGuns an old gun from your old man is a hell of a gift. He gifted me a gen 1 glock 17 with a nice SAI package that he bought from years ago for fathers day lol. Can't wait to see what's next.
Alleged production was from 1949-1969 having produced roughly 450k total of all the sizes offered.
They also produced them under the name Mohawk 48. They were built with the leftover 11-48 and Sportsman 48 parts between 1970 and 1975. After the introduction of the model 1100. They were sold to big box stores like KMart.
That’s awesome man I got mine from my great grandpa, mines also from 58!
The model 11 has a brass friction ring in that the beveled end facing the barrel lug for heavier loads and then turned around for lighter loads, the 11-48 friction ring is similar but modified to be self adjusting but make sure it's orientated correctly when reassembling. When cleaning the gun I would use solvent and 0000 steel wool and make sure the ring is cleaned off of any carbon and also wipe down the inside of the barrel lug that it fits into. Also the recoil spring might be weak. These older guns can be a bit finicky with whatever loads you were feeding them though. Now I want one!
Mine was having cycling issues also and we ran about 4 high brass buckshot loads through it and now it cycles fine
These run great with the friction bushing but, do require cleaning and lubrication. Rather than removing or modifying the friction bushing I would recommend a complete teardown and cleaning. During the process remove the stock then the recoil spring. Give the recoil spring and tube a good cleaning and LIGHT lubrication then reassemble. Never had one not run after this process. Make sure you get the stock fit back correctly and that it is tight. If you don't, the recoil operation of this shotgun will crack the stock at the receiver.
The nut that holds the stock on requires the use of a large flat blade screw driver and if installed properly will be tight. I made a tool with a driver inserted in a pipe that allows me to use a wrench or socket and maintain a bite on the nut.
The bushing is there for a reason. This shotgun is not like the A5 or Model 11 and does not have the rings that are turned for lighter or heavier loads.
Understand that the basis behind this is that any 11-48 is going to be an old gun. Likely, it has sit quite a while as most were grandpa's gun and there's a good chance he used a lubricant that over time gets a little sticky. A good cleaning and lube goes a long way toward proper operation.
The original owners manuals call for using light weight motor oils. We have many options for better lubricants today. Standard motor oils are actually pretty dirty. I've had really good luck using very light coats of synthetic 5w-30 on moving parts. A LITTLE BIT GOES A LONG WAY!
I found one at a gun store in ‘19 for 150$ out the door. It was hanging out with a bunch of “junk” shotguns with names I’d never heard of before.
I wasn’t sure about it, I know a teensy bit about guns so I knew that with that name at the price it couldn’t be gas operated. So I gently pushed down on the barrel to see if my suspicions were correct. Sure enough, it was a spring loaded piece. I had a savage (browning A-5 copy) that had been run over by a truck. It had feeding problems.
I didn’t trust it, but I pushed the barrel down all the way and it locked the slide back. I took a chance and bought it.
We’ve been in love ever since…
That's awesome and thanks for sharing the story. Love them.
I love my 11-48 it was passed on from my great grandfather to my grandfather and to my father ,then me and I never have an issue with it ,,only the shell lotch goth broken and I replace it
Nice, love the old grandpas shotguns, they usually have tons of stories and memories. Thanks for watching and sharing.
thank you ill open it up today its a nice gun 16 gauge
These guns are recoil operated, the recoil spring is on the magazine tube with a brass bushing that is used to make the gun cycle with high or low pressure loads. Turn the bushing over and try again.
The recoil spring on the barrel needs to be thoroughly oiled, also long neck brass will help it feed perfectly
I recently acquired the same gun from a grandfather who passed. It’s having the same issues. Can you do another video that is more detailed? Maybe a break down and explanation on the friction ring?
One thing to try first to clean the gun throughout. Make sure the magazine tube is free of any small burrs or any type of build up. Then oil the tube well, this can often times fix the problem. But unfortunately I sent this gun back to owner. So may take a while before I see it again.
Also if you need some exploded diagrams of this model just let me know I'll be happy to email them to you.
Do you know what type of choke it was. I'm trying to find one myself. I have the same model
You can reconfigure the friction rings for heavy or light loads. For heavier loads put both rings on the end of the spring towards the muzzle end. For lighter loads put the smaller ring at the end of the spring towards the trigger (beveled side towards the trigger) and the put the spring back on and put the larger ring on after.
Gotcha, but went ahead and polished the ring and tube. Lubed it and has been working perfect now. But I'll keep that idea in mind if I run across it again.
Where do find a thinner bushing for this model?
What does the friction booshing do?
Is that friction bushing necessary? I mean if it runs flawlessly, why put it back in?
Well if he runs a heavier load it will need some resistance. But with bird shot yeah not needed.
Just curious,, were you using high brass shells? I have my papa's 11 48, it won't eject low brass.
I was using low brass, but after lubing everything real good. Or just removing that buffer it cycles low brass perfect.
@@RustyGuns that's good to know. Thanks!
It also has a low brass and high brass adjustment ring. Located on the magazine tube switch the rings depending on what type of ammo you are using.
Look up “how to adjust friction ring on Remington model 11 and/or 11-48”
I love mine..its window an unknown gem .those who know know.thise who dont think there junk. There awsome
Yeah, I had a great time shooting it.
@@RustyGuns I hst noticed I had a typo in my comment...but yeah I got mine from my dad..I always saw him use it for turkee hunting so its sentimental. But I realy enjoy mine. I wish the barrel was alot shorter but I dnt dare cut it down because of it being dads old gun but you never know. To bad about the barrel limits I'd be cool super short too. Lol thanx for making the vidio there is not much on yputube about them in much depth..I dnt shoot it as much as I'd like but as a kid alota cans got shredded lol👍👍
I found one at a gun store for 150$ out the door. It was hanging out with a bunch of “junk” shotguns with names I’d never heard of before.
I wasn’t sure about it, I know a teensy bit about guns so I knew that with that price it couldn’t be gas operated. So I gently pushed down on the barrel to see if my suspicions were correct it was a spring loaded piece. I had a savage (browning A-5 copy) that had been run over by a truck. It had feeding problems.
I didn’t trust it, but I pushed the barrel down all the way and it locked the slide back. I took a chance and bought it.
We’ve been in love ever since…
@@codyprice0295 that's awsome..they are great..now that I'm getting older and don't need the newest gun or car I gave cone to apriciate other things and experience more..guns and life in general..sad the way guns are demonized...it can teach responsibility if done correctly as I'm sure you know..thanx for the comment 😀
@@codyprice0295 I got mine from my dad and were not rich so it's the only semi automatic shotguns I own..they have a charm to em for sure..thanx again for the response..
What's a good price for one of these
Oh that's a good question market now is kind of crazy. I would check gunbroker or other types of websites and see what they have recently sold for.
wish you had shown the bushing in the gun i have the same gun having the same problem
It's located between the barrel lug and spring that is over the magazine tube. I polished the magazine tube and oiled real well and that did the trick. In the comments someone also noted in the owners manual it actually calls for 30w oil for this area.
What's the full length of this model?
They run dry! That will fix the problem.
I “kilicked “ on this vid @ 11:48 - no joke!
Lol, thanks for watching!