22:22 time stamp Real Quick, after I installed the support brace on the bike, I noticed the plastic needed to be pushed more against the frame when re installing the wheel, so I just loosened and retighten the bolt on the support.. It just looked connected on film to me on the phone.... But other then that if you have any questions on this process or your own front derailleur stories I would love to hear them
Me again. I have a bad experience with Sram. Since 2 years I have changed, bottom bracket, shift level right and last week front derailler. Not reliable it's at least what I can say
Howdy mitch! I dont know if you use trainers? But i watched some videos. The garmin tacx can do a 25% grade, the wahoo can do a 20% grade. I feel either option outranges me, but you might be interested in that extra 5%?
I have the same group set Force D2 with 2200km, adjusted properly lot's of time from my LBS but i'm experiencing like 5 to7 drops (inside and outside) for a 70km ride. It's getting very annoying. Even on the bike stand there are certain combinations that the chain is dropped. We have tried with the Sram tool also with the Sram marks on the deraileurs but nothing. LBS told me they need a period to bend in the crankset with the chain which after 2000 km it does make sense. I don't know what else we need to try
@@steliosioannou9964 my shop adjusted it and it had problems but when I sat down and did it myself no issues. I'd say watch the SRAM install videos they helped alot.
I have SRAM and, so long as it’s set up properly, it works fine. It has dropped a couple of times but if I check the limit screw and make the quarter turn, it’s back to great shifting. I do run Shimano on another bike, although mechanical and it does need less adjustments but I have had a bad malfunction with that too which meant I had to be picked up due to a twisted chain. The key is proper adjustment for any group set.
@@GCPerformance18 The shimano auto shift is worse though - I hate when client's bikes are setup with this as the only option especially on comprised frames like QR that use a Chainstay lenthg and hanger geometery that is out of shimano's spec for framebuilders
@@mvhan911 the force compensation shift timing needs to be set to very slow or all the movement in the chain greatly increases the chances of a dropped chain
I set two AXS front derailleurs up following SRAM's instructions (first gen force and new force) and haven't had any dropping problems. I installed a chain catch for the bottom bracket area but it hasn't been needed yet.
Man, du bist geil! Danke für dein Video. Hab vor paar Tagen ein neues Fahrrad gekauft und der Mechaniker hat alles falsch eingerichtet. Dachte, dass mit dem Bike ist schon etwas kaputt, aber dein Video hat mich gerettet!!!
I have Red eTap from 2017 on one of my bikes, had loads of issues with chains being thrown early on and after much experimentation with positioning I got it to the point it was fairly reliable if I shifted under light load and at a certain position on the pedal stroke (TDC) What finally cured it was my decision to ditch the Red chainset and put a Shimano 105 series on, since then not a single issue, front mech has been moved several times for chainring sizes altering and it’s never dropped. Take from that what you will but the fact it still happens with SRAM front mechs 7 yrs after i started experiencing it is laughable 🤣
I have SRAM Red and i set my FD cage as far inboard as possible when in big/small without rub. I installed a SRAM Force 22 chain catcher so it wouldn't drop inside. Its bombproof, I never even look down when shifting the FD, never ever drops, outside or inside and no rub in any gear.
@@TerjeRiisnaes I was having an issue with chain dropping to the outside, I reset the FD from scratch like this video and then it would drop inside when shifting the FD while in the biggest 3 on the rear cassette. It wouldn't happen often but once in a while and was annoying. My old bike had Force 22 and never had any drop issues. Bought a catcher and all is good. I never think about it anymore. No matter what combination never an issue. I would say yes, its a must. The SRAM FD really needs a trim function but Shimano has that patent on lock.
@@norevlimitr1602I thought SRAM front derailleurs have Yaw Technology that utilises two differently sized parallelogram linkages front and back and a cage that widens at the rear?
Shimano all the way...i own both sram red & 12speed dura ace di2 but i prefer shimano...Shimano uses mineral oil, shifts faster, no chain drop, hoods feel better, brakes stop on a dime, looks better to me(sleeker stealth look), and the battery last forever...😅
Good tutorial GC 👍🏼 I would like to add to put a clear tape on the frame so that the support brace doesn’t rub off the paint on your seat post overtime… just a personal thing.😉
yea a lot of people od not have this but, for some reason sram is known for this with the front der, alot of people say that the front der gives them the most chain drops
On my first ride with SRAM etap the front derailleur wasn't properly installed so threw over the chain (shop installed it). It was a 300 km race and happened the first 100 meters. Had to jump off, get the chain on and chase down the group for minutes, not the best start on 300km. Had to use the big ring for the whole race. But after that, I got it dialed on properly and never had a problem with the shifting after that.
I really love Sram, it has everything to do with innovation. I never let the wedge touch the carbon frame. Instead, I use a smaller wedge and let it touch against the braze-on derailleur hanger. This is to prevent cracking the frame if something smashes the front derailleur.
Thanks for that video! I wondered for quite long what these little plastic parts are good for and never found a real answer, ignoring appropriate search terms. Now I got it and will install. Let’s see if chain drops are going to decrease.
Lol, I ride Shimano too but I've had that experience a few times before too. So long as you don't panic when that happens and carefully continue to pedal and shift down you'll get the chain remounted. But I do like the idea of an alignment tool and that back of derailleur brace.
The only flaw with my Di2 came from the user. I degreased my chainrings to convert to wax and ate into the anodizing on them with my gnarly degreaser. Careful with purple degreaser and aluminum! Shifts like a dream! And the wax runs like butter. Im using molten speed waxes new formula on YBN chains. It feels slicker in the hand compared to silca wax on a stock chain.
Hi, thanks for the tutotials, I was one of the first sram red axs users on the new venge when was released and when there was not the sram front mech jig, by then never had an issue cause I took my time to fine tune it, later on when the group was more common did see lots of people with issues but I believe it was bad tuning, also had seen some frames with the front mount hanger that do not allow the FD to twist inward like toe in on the back to have it perfect aligned and that requires to modify the base of the frame like sand it a little so the FD move in a little more. hope this helps some folks.
Great video. Yes please do a similar video for the rear derailleur. I did drop a chain a a couple of weeks ago. The chain was jammed in-between the inner chain ring and frame. What a pain. Now I know how to prevent this from happening again.
I've had the drop happen a few times going from big to small ring going up hill. I've found with SRAM Force AXS, I need to pause a second before engaging the pedals after shifting in either direction or I risk dropping the chain. I don't know if this is a SRAM thing or the front derailleur adjustment. I know SRAM shifting isn't supposed to be as quick as Di2.
I just set my shimano di2 to synchronous shifting giving me a virtual 1x16 and completley forget the front derailleur exists except for the split second it does the maneuver. I pretend my road bike is a 1x. I only use the front shifter occasionally when doing maintenance and want to move the front only. After linking it with my garmin i can see what gears im in and it has a little pop up informing me the next shift will change front cogs.
The biggest reason people have issues with SRAM front derailleurs is because they set them up as if they are Shimano. They'll then reply "but my bike shop set it up" and there is my point, a lot of bike shop "mechanics" still don't know how to set SRAM up properly. Can't stress enough the importance of the wedge. One of my 3 SRAM bikes I can't access behind the derailleur easily to insert the wedge (90s Superbike) and it's shifting performance under load is not as good as the other 2. Solved the problem by pre-installing the wedge but it was by micro adjusting its position and uninstall/reinstall the derailleur until it was right. Yes a faf but its what you gotta do when making new tech work with a 90s aero bike, and this is a rare situation.
I don't have AXS, but interested to see this. Just had a quick Google for this tool and was very surprised to see it retailing over here in the UK for £6 (around $7.50 US). I have to say, that's pretty good value for a major manufacturer
Love the video, my front chain used to drop until I seen this video and adjusted it like you show. Would you do a video on installing and setting up the crankset. Like how you know what spacers to use and that. Thanks
SRAM red, I’ve watched sooo many videos on setting it up over the last 4 years and I cannot stop it flipping off occasionally under load usually off the inner ring damaging the frame. I’ve finally installed a chain catcher. Took it out for its first trial yesterday and sure enough it tried to flip off the inner at one point and the catcher flipped it back on. Job done I hope. Always been shimano in the past which seems better for this to me. Like the way sram gear changing works though.
Like you read my mind! I just had another dropped chain on a new Force AXS groupset and was thinking, man, when does Sram learn to do proper front shifting. Thanks for the tip.
From experience, ive found using the alignment tool is good to align the derailer with the sprocket, but leaves the derailer too high off the large chainring. Manually adjusting the derailer to between 1.5mm to 2mm above the large chain works best from my experience.
Some shops are like. "Whats this for" thank god it seems to be a practice to save the bits and bobs. Specialized forgot to even give me my parts bag, di2 charger, futureshock spring kit, user manual, etc... I had to drive back there 1hr each way just to get the stuff. 1st new bike purchase as an adult and in 20 years! Im so glad to be back.
Brilliant vid my bike has the chain drop problem but only does it if I hold both gear change levers for 2 long if I just tap them it doesn't do it????.
Sounds like something's wrong with the circuitry, I've never had to press & hold both shift buttons. Have it checked by a SRAM retailer if firmware updates don't work.
Hi great video ; I have sram red 11 speed etap and when I want to go big to small ring there’s no problem but to go small ring to big ring it won’t engage unless I’m halfway down the block ,so the 28 tooth down about 5 shifts it won’t engage the big ring , also my limit screws seem right as you just demonstrated . Can you help thanks
Hi, thanks for this great video. Wouldn't auto shifting from small to big on FD be an issue for sudden changes under load. The rider is not thinking what gear he's in and it suddenly shifts anyway. So I three chain doing this a few times. Would it be better to turn off enhanced sequential mode and just do it manually?
With my old cable front derailleur and shop adjusted, over shifting the chain into the cranks was very very rare. But you could gingerly shift it back onto the top ring but pedaling gently. You could do the same if you dropped the chain off the smaller ring by half shifting the chain back up. Is that possible with electronic? One of the comments here was from someone that had to get off their bike to fix.
no, the electronic is pre programmed to move a certain amount, so I remember what you are saying where you can kind of manually trim the derailler with your hand by how much you push on the shifter, which was nice but here this is not the case, once you set it, its set
I haver a brand new 2024 Specialized Allez Sprint frameset that I had a high end shop build for me with a new full SRAM Rival groupset. I drop the chain to the inside on my first ride and On my second ride. I'm a decent mechanic. I am the only one that my girlfriend will let touch her S-WORKS with SRAM RED. So when I looked at mine, it looks perfectly set up. I'm adding a chain catcher to mine. The only thing the shop owner has to say is "If everything is set up perfectly, SRAM is a little more sensitive to shifting under power than Shimano. Even the pro's drop chains. Just back off a little more that you would with a Shimano."
I mean that sounds crappy, have you tried bringing in the low limit screw? and it is not touching and also the height is correct, usually we don't have issues with dropping on the inside more going over.. but yes adding a chain catcher on the inside doesnt hurt
Whats it with the SRAM chains dropping? I was riding for a weekend with a couple of guys. Almost all of the SRAM users had at least one chain drop in two days...
Rotate the FD counterclockwise a few millimeter so that the center of the cage should be on the left edge of the chain and set the limiter screw so close to the chainring as possible.
Great video! No surprises that “properly” installing the derailleur with the manufacturer provided installation tool actually makes it work right?? Haha who’d have thought!? I can confirm that doing this does significantly increase performance and lessen chain drops compared to doing it by eye (in my universe of 1 though)
I've installed a few SRAM eTap AXS front derailleurs with SRAM's dedicated positioning tool and it doesn't actually set up yaw as perfectly as I'd like, mostly with a little toe-in. I then refined the yaw by eye and no setup I've done has ever dropped chains.
For everyone performing this SRAM front derailleur adjustment, please make SURE to use a NEW SRAM Powerlock when installing the chain back onto the drivetrain. SRAM Powerlocks are one-time use ONLY. I have heard of snapped chains causing serious injuries/deaths.
To be fair, I've never had much difficulty (if any) installing any front derailleur. Shimano front derailleur installation is so straight-to-the-point.
I run master links until i dont get a firm click. If it felt like it clicked on too easy, its going to click off too easy also. I tend to use them more than 5 times. This is based off both KMC and YBN chains.
I recently purchased Canyon Aeroad cfr with the now old red and had the problem chain go off the big ring coming ftom the small and canyon servicecenter adjusted for me and it has been working for 4-5 trips but now it started again 7 times the last 2 trips despite I am carefully shifting not to make it happens. I ordered the new red front shifter and canyon service center will mount on the bike for me. Do you think I solved the problem and what is the name of the small thing that presses against the frame? Do I need one of those to secure the chaindrop even more
@@GCPerformance18 the bike brand, in newer models, doesn't paint the bracket anymore. I was hating on Sram so much as it cost me races. But I haven't had an issue in over a year now, it was really a simple solution in the end.
One of the secrets on SRAM derailleurs is using Locktite on the adjustment screws. They loosen over time unless you fix them, and then you'll end up with dropped chains and scratches on your beloved steed.
Is there a parts number or name (maybe I missed it in the video) to try and order them from you or sram? I get more dropped chains than I like and want to see if this solves that issue. Edit; Found on of them - SRAM 12-speed Front Derailleur Alignment tool part number is 00.7618.170.000. Couldn't find the wedge thing.
I like your channel, great stuff usually but this video was weird. All the steps you mentioned including the "plastic piece" is included in the SRAM official installation video. I've done multiple SRAM AXS bikes and never had a chain drop. Only drops been in Shimano bikes. Also I haven't heard any of my friends having problems. Is this a problem only for the shops/guys/pro-teams who don't follow the instructions???
You would be suprised how many customers bikes come into my store who don’t not set up the front der correctly, we don’t experience a lot of chain drop here because no one shifts front der but a lot of people talk about this
Hey Boss! GC performance ☺️ Please help!!! 🙏🙏🙏 Please. I have the piece, BUT, missing the screw/tiny bolt. Could you please help with (if possible) the measurements of the screw. Diameter and length. Would highly appreciate ❤
Then you have chainline problems, no SRAM eTap AXS groupset I've worked with and set up ever did that. If you're saying that with the front derailleur also being actuated by itself, Sequential Shift Mode is on.
@@sbccbc7471 no it's not sequential shifting that's turned off. It happens only sometimes when shifting rear cogs, it will occasionally drop the big ring to little without the front derailleur moving
this setup should take care of both shifting over the top and the bottom, while setting the limit screw in the video this should make the front der need to be in the exact right plac e
I think the slides look cool but I think they would be even better if they were more like recovery slides. Hoka was the first brand that I saw make them and they seem to be popular with runners especially after races and hard workouts. Would be sick to have some GC performance recovery slides for the drive home after a long ride
This was a great video and perfect timing! Not only am I just finishing my first full build but my other bike has been dropping the chain. Will do this later today! Also is there a way or is it possible to use a 10/36 cassette with a Red axs derailleur or am I actually limited to a 10/33.
Usually the 10-33-max SRAM RD will work with 10-36 cassette, but it depends on the bike/derailleur hanger... Or you can wait for the new SRAM Red coming next week, that one will have Red 10-36 cassette/RD combo :)
I have an orbeya orca.I fight my front chain ring every time I go for a ride.I just wouldn't check.I have that little support, but it's not even touching the frame.It's almost touching the tire now.I will put my bike back on my bike.Stand and readjust everything like you've showed me.Thank you for this video.I appreciate it
Shimano front derailleur installation never needs that kind of guide. Just set it up with no toe and 1 - 3 mm (I personally do 1.5 mm) above the large chainring's teeth.
I rode it yesterday got about just over 100 miles on it and the group is running very nice and still holding charge since i started, the only downside to the group is the app and how to set it up and ajust the gears, it sucks but with patience it works
On a Colnago C68 the Sram height guide tool mounts the mech too low, because of the laid back angle of that frames seat-tube (you have to manually nudge mech up a bit)
One of the best videos for FD setup on SRAM I have seen! A+++++ I am changing out my Rival AXS to full Force D2 this fall and my Rival FD has that frame block and I assume it will be reused on the Force FD????
@@GCPerformance18 Its not you..its needed..but the average cyclist will never attempt adjusting these if having to watch a 22 min video..Sram front derailleurs should be idiot proof and still far from it..and now the Red upgrade is $3k with “better” braking and more “precise and faster shifting?” I hear its still not up to par with Shimano..unbelievable..
@@GCPerformance18 thanks. Yes, checked, close as can be for tolerance after install with the sram tool, installed the wedge as well. Still dropping, talked to sram and they said "just use our troubleshooting guide". Thinking I may just install a chain catcher.
for me, it drops in the other direction - between small ring and bottom bracket shell. Even with a K-edge chain catcher it, somehow, still drops between the small-ring and BB shell.
I just adjusted the limit screws on the front mech to a hairline of distance from the chain. Next step if this does not work: remove one (actually two) links from the chain, and ease, a little, the b-screw.
That braze against the frame is not necessary or even possible when you use the official brazeclamp from SRAM I suppose? From personal experience; please be careful with those low and high limit screws because when bolted in too far they can really mess up your mech and that is one expensive mistake potentially, believe me lol....
I used one on my mtb 1×10 with a Shimano SLX rear derailleur that didnt have a clutch. Never dropped a chain. And shifting was smooth and easy without the resistance from the clutch.
22:22 time stamp Real Quick, after I installed the support brace on the bike, I noticed the plastic needed to be pushed more against the frame when re installing the wheel, so I just loosened and retighten the bolt on the support.. It just looked connected on film to me on the phone.... But other then that if you have any questions on this process or your own front derailleur stories I would love to hear them
Me again. I have a bad experience with Sram. Since 2 years I have changed, bottom bracket, shift level right and last week front derailler. Not reliable it's at least what I can say
Is the extra brace supposed to come with your bike from factory or is this an "aftermarket" solution? if so, where can you get it? Thanks!
"HAS THAT EVER HAPPENED TO YOU???" 😂 Acting that good can only come from deep personal experience
Howdy mitch!
I dont know if you use trainers? But i watched some videos. The garmin tacx can do a 25% grade, the wahoo can do a 20% grade.
I feel either option outranges me, but you might be interested in that extra 5%?
I adjusted mine on my own by following sram recommendations by adjusting the FD and the B gap 😊 its working flawlessly so far😊
Yea once it was set up properly I never dropped a chain. It wasn't as fast as Shimano but it's always felt smoother than Shimano.
@jaspreetsidhu5708 yep.. same. Now I'm wondering if I have that piece on my FD.lol.
Yeah. Same here. Perfect front shifts. Used the jig the front der came with and added the support piece. No issues 1000 miles later.
I have the same group set Force D2 with 2200km, adjusted properly lot's of time from my LBS but i'm experiencing like 5 to7 drops (inside and outside) for a 70km ride. It's getting very annoying. Even on the bike stand there are certain combinations that the chain is dropped. We have tried with the Sram tool also with the Sram marks on the deraileurs but nothing. LBS told me they need a period to bend in the crankset with the chain which after 2000 km it does make sense. I don't know what else we need to try
@@steliosioannou9964 my shop adjusted it and it had problems but when I sat down and did it myself no issues. I'd say watch the SRAM install videos they helped alot.
I have SRAM and, so long as it’s set up properly, it works fine. It has dropped a couple of times but if I check the limit screw and make the quarter turn, it’s back to great shifting. I do run Shimano on another bike, although mechanical and it does need less adjustments but I have had a bad malfunction with that too which meant I had to be picked up due to a twisted chain. The key is proper adjustment for any group set.
yes this is always the key, it needs to be perfect
All good tips - I recommend turning OFF the auto shift on the rear derailleur. I find this really helps with dropped chains as well.
yea makes sense
@@GCPerformance18 The shimano auto shift is worse though - I hate when client's bikes are setup with this as the only option especially on comprised frames like QR that use a Chainstay lenthg and hanger geometery that is out of shimano's spec for framebuilders
@@mtlaprade why no full auto mode on shimano ?
@@mvhan911 the force compensation shift timing needs to be set to very slow or all the movement in the chain greatly increases the chances of a dropped chain
@@mtlaprade does it also apply to Rival ? For me auto shifting with compensation would be an important feature for buying decision for Rival vs 105di2
great one, now I understand what is that little thing my mechanic put in there behind my FD, now it shifts 100% better than before.
hell yea!!!
I set two AXS front derailleurs up following SRAM's instructions (first gen force and new force) and haven't had any dropping problems. I installed a chain catch for the bottom bracket area but it hasn't been needed yet.
yea the chain catch is always a nice saftey net to have for any component
Man, du bist geil! Danke für dein Video. Hab vor paar Tagen ein neues Fahrrad gekauft und der Mechaniker hat alles falsch eingerichtet. Dachte, dass mit dem Bike ist schon etwas kaputt, aber dein Video hat mich gerettet!!!
I have Red eTap from 2017 on one of my bikes, had loads of issues with chains being thrown early on and after much experimentation with positioning I got it to the point it was fairly reliable if I shifted under light load and at a certain position on the pedal stroke (TDC)
What finally cured it was my decision to ditch the Red chainset and put a Shimano 105 series on, since then not a single issue, front mech has been moved several times for chainring sizes altering and it’s never dropped. Take from that what you will but the fact it still happens with SRAM front mechs 7 yrs after i started experiencing it is laughable 🤣
yea if a rider beocmes in tune with there bike and knows when to shift then that really does help
@@GCPerformance18 Agree, even Ultegra di2 12spd has an optimal shift point I’ve found.
I have SRAM Red and i set my FD cage as far inboard as possible when in big/small without rub. I installed a SRAM Force 22 chain catcher so it wouldn't drop inside. Its bombproof, I never even look down when shifting the FD, never ever drops, outside or inside and no rub in any gear.
I’m just about to do a build with Red myself. Do you think a change catcher is a must?
@@TerjeRiisnaes I was having an issue with chain dropping to the outside, I reset the FD from scratch like this video and then it would drop inside when shifting the FD while in the biggest 3 on the rear cassette. It wouldn't happen often but once in a while and was annoying. My old bike had Force 22 and never had any drop issues. Bought a catcher and all is good. I never think about it anymore. No matter what combination never an issue. I would say yes, its a must. The SRAM FD really needs a trim function but Shimano has that patent on lock.
@@norevlimitr1602I thought SRAM front derailleurs have Yaw Technology that utilises two differently sized parallelogram linkages front and back and a cage that widens at the rear?
@@sbccbc7471 Yes I know all that. Thats marketing, reality is different.
as long as it adjusted correctly you are god to go!! alot of people look past limit screws on electronic groups but they are key
Shimano all the way...i own both sram red & 12speed dura ace di2 but i prefer shimano...Shimano uses mineral oil, shifts faster, no chain drop, hoods feel better, brakes stop on a dime, looks better to me(sleeker stealth look), and the battery last forever...😅
Enjoyed the infomercial style intro. A black and white filter on a B-roll of the moment the chain dropped would have been the cherry on top.
thanks so much!!!
Good tutorial GC 👍🏼 I would like to add to put a clear tape on the frame so that the support brace doesn’t rub off the paint on your seat post overtime… just a personal thing.😉
yea very nice suggestion
I've been training and gravel racing on SRAM AXS for two seasons now with zero issues. Factory installed by Giant.
yea a lot of people od not have this but, for some reason sram is known for this with the front der, alot of people say that the front der gives them the most chain drops
On my first ride with SRAM etap the front derailleur wasn't properly installed so threw over the chain (shop installed it). It was a 300 km race and happened the first 100 meters. Had to jump off, get the chain on and chase down the group for minutes, not the best start on 300km. Had to use the big ring for the whole race. But after that, I got it dialed on properly and never had a problem with the shifting after that.
Great video. Once a sram front derailleur is installed perfectly you dont get a dropped chain anymore.
:)
I really love Sram, it has
everything to do with innovation. I never let the wedge touch the carbon frame. Instead, I use a smaller wedge and let it touch against the braze-on derailleur hanger. This is to prevent cracking the frame if something smashes the front derailleur.
I was thinking that, are you using one of the wedges that come with the derailleur or are you using something else?
I’ve not had that occur since I first put SIS gear on my bikes decades ago. This convinces me that Shimano is the gear to have
hahaha or go 1x sram
Thanks for that video! I wondered for quite long what these little plastic parts are good for and never found a real answer, ignoring appropriate search terms. Now I got it and will install. Let’s see if chain drops are going to decrease.
I am glad it helped out!!
I use Shimano, so I do not know how that moment feels, but it was hilarious
Lol, I ride Shimano too but I've had that experience a few times before too. So long as you don't panic when that happens and carefully continue to pedal and shift down you'll get the chain remounted. But I do like the idea of an alignment tool and that back of derailleur brace.
With qualified mechanic and proper set up, I never had problem with shimano DI series…
The only flaw with my Di2 came from the user. I degreased my chainrings to convert to wax and ate into the anodizing on them with my gnarly degreaser.
Careful with purple degreaser and aluminum!
Shifts like a dream! And the wax runs like butter. Im using molten speed waxes new formula on YBN chains. It feels slicker in the hand compared to silca wax on a stock chain.
When i drop a chain it always means i need a new one.
Hi, thanks for the tutotials, I was one of the first sram red axs users on the new venge when was released and when there was not the sram front mech jig, by then never had an issue cause I took my time to fine tune it, later on when the group was more common did see lots of people with issues but I believe it was bad tuning, also had seen some frames with the front mount hanger that do not allow the FD to twist inward like toe in on the back to have it perfect aligned and that requires to modify the base of the frame like sand it a little so the FD move in a little more. hope this helps some folks.
thanks for this
Great video. Yes please do a similar video for the rear derailleur. I did drop a chain a a couple of weeks ago. The chain was jammed in-between the inner chain ring and frame. What a pain. Now I know how to prevent this from happening again.
I've had the drop happen a few times going from big to small ring going up hill. I've found with SRAM Force AXS, I need to pause a second before engaging the pedals after shifting in either direction or I risk dropping the chain. I don't know if this is a SRAM thing or the front derailleur adjustment. I know SRAM shifting isn't supposed to be as quick as Di2.
yes see this is what I am talking about us as riders can feel when the best time to shift and what we can do to optimize it
I just set my shimano di2 to synchronous shifting giving me a virtual 1x16 and completley forget the front derailleur exists except for the split second it does the maneuver.
I pretend my road bike is a 1x. I only use the front shifter occasionally when doing maintenance and want to move the front only.
After linking it with my garmin i can see what gears im in and it has a little pop up informing me the next shift will change front cogs.
The biggest reason people have issues with SRAM front derailleurs is because they set them up as if they are Shimano. They'll then reply "but my bike shop set it up" and there is my point, a lot of bike shop "mechanics" still don't know how to set SRAM up properly.
Can't stress enough the importance of the wedge. One of my 3 SRAM bikes I can't access behind the derailleur easily to insert the wedge (90s Superbike) and it's shifting performance under load is not as good as the other 2. Solved the problem by pre-installing the wedge but it was by micro adjusting its position and uninstall/reinstall the derailleur until it was right. Yes a faf but its what you gotta do when making new tech work with a 90s aero bike, and this is a rare situation.
Yes I have to remove the wheel to adjust the wedge and tighten the fixing screw.
yes I see so many bikes come in with this piece missing or it not even touching the frame, makes no sense to me
I don't have AXS, but interested to see this. Just had a quick Google for this tool and was very surprised to see it retailing over here in the UK for £6 (around $7.50 US). I have to say, that's pretty good value for a major manufacturer
I appreciate you stopping by to watch
Love the video, my front chain used to drop until I seen this video and adjusted it like you show. Would you do a video on installing and setting up the crankset. Like how you know what spacers to use and that. Thanks
oh yea we can go at that for sure
SRAM red, I’ve watched sooo many videos on setting it up over the last 4 years and I cannot stop it flipping off occasionally under load usually off the inner ring damaging the frame. I’ve finally installed a chain catcher. Took it out for its first trial yesterday and sure enough it tried to flip off the inner at one point and the catcher flipped it back on. Job done I hope. Always been shimano in the past which seems better for this to me. Like the way sram gear changing works though.
yea a chain catcher will always help
In my opinion, the reason for the chain to drop on the outside of the cranks aside from set up issues is the shape of the outer derailleur cage
Like you read my mind! I just had another dropped chain on a new Force AXS groupset and was thinking, man, when does Sram learn to do proper front shifting. Thanks for the tip.
Their shifting is fine. Dudes in world tour dropping shimano chains too.
Get your stuff set up right and you'll be fine
FROM MÉXICO., GREAT EXPLANATION. THE BEST.
thanks so much!!!
From experience, ive found using the alignment tool is good to align the derailer with the sprocket, but leaves the derailer too high off the large chainring. Manually adjusting the derailer to between 1.5mm to 2mm above the large chain works best from my experience.
what front derailleur? :) No drops since going 1x
truth
105 di2 front derailleur. 😊 I've had no drops and i have a virtual 1x16 that keeps the chainline better optimized.
Bike shop didn’t install that on my Cervelo sram rival but found the parts in a bag. Thanks for the heads up!!WTH
no problem!!! yea we see this alot tbh
Some shops are like. "Whats this for" thank god it seems to be a practice to save the bits and bobs.
Specialized forgot to even give me my parts bag, di2 charger, futureshock spring kit, user manual, etc... I had to drive back there 1hr each way just to get the stuff.
1st new bike purchase as an adult and in 20 years! Im so glad to be back.
Great video dude. Love the tutorial like so so many others of yours
thanks so much
What about chain dropping when changing to the small chainring? Do you recommend using chain catchers?
yea look at kedge
This was real cool, thanks. Woudl love to see you go through the back derailler that tends to be a bit noisy....Thanks.
Brilliant vid my bike has the chain drop problem but only does it if I hold both gear change levers for 2 long if I just tap them it doesn't do it????.
Sounds like something's wrong with the circuitry, I've never had to press & hold both shift buttons. Have it checked by a SRAM retailer if firmware updates don't work.
Hi great video ; I have sram red 11 speed etap and when I want to go big to small ring there’s no problem but to go small ring to big ring it won’t engage unless I’m halfway down the block ,so the 28 tooth down about 5 shifts it won’t engage the big ring , also my limit screws seem right as you just demonstrated . Can you help thanks
Hi, thanks for this great video. Wouldn't auto shifting from small to big on FD be an issue for sudden changes under load. The rider is not thinking what gear he's in and it suddenly shifts anyway. So I three chain doing this a few times. Would it be better to turn off enhanced sequential mode and just do it manually?
Good video. I think we need to get you new allen keys. Yowza....is it just me....or are they all bent/warped?
lmao they are silca wrenchs, and also it is not the tool it is the user of that tool, some of the tools in the shop are 10 years old
Your Park tri-hex is bent too. Stop using them as pry bars.
With my old cable front derailleur and shop adjusted, over shifting the chain into the cranks was very very rare. But you could gingerly shift it back onto the top ring but pedaling gently. You could do the same if you dropped the chain off the smaller ring by half shifting the chain back up.
Is that possible with electronic? One of the comments here was from someone that had to get off their bike to fix.
no, the electronic is pre programmed to move a certain amount, so I remember what you are saying where you can kind of manually trim the derailler with your hand by how much you push on the shifter, which was nice but here this is not the case, once you set it, its set
Thanks for this. Please do one for the rear as well
Will do
I haver a brand new 2024 Specialized Allez Sprint frameset that I had a high end shop build for me with a new full SRAM Rival groupset. I drop the chain to the inside on my first ride and On my second ride. I'm a decent mechanic. I am the only one that my girlfriend will let touch her S-WORKS with SRAM RED. So when I looked at mine, it looks perfectly set up. I'm adding a chain catcher to mine. The only thing the shop owner has to say is "If everything is set up perfectly, SRAM is a little more sensitive to shifting under power than Shimano. Even the pro's drop chains. Just back off a little more that you would with a Shimano."
I mean that sounds crappy, have you tried bringing in the low limit screw? and it is not touching and also the height is correct, usually we don't have issues with dropping on the inside more going over.. but yes adding a chain catcher on the inside doesnt hurt
Whats it with the SRAM chains dropping? I was riding for a weekend with a couple of guys. Almost all of the SRAM users had at least one chain drop in two days...
hahahha I do not know it is something with there front der design
Thanks for how to adjust the FD. I need to check this because I've had a few inside overshifts.
Now I need to know how to get that plastic thingy so I can set the height right .
Will this work with 11 speed sram red etap front derailleur ? What's the part number?? Thank you
no it will not
@@GCPerformance18 Just found they made this part for sram red etap 11 speed. it is a different part number.
Rotate the FD counterclockwise a few millimeter so that the center of the cage should be on the left edge of the chain and set the limiter screw so close to the chainring as possible.
Great video! No surprises that “properly” installing the derailleur with the manufacturer provided installation tool actually makes it work right?? Haha who’d have thought!? I can confirm that doing this does significantly increase performance and lessen chain drops compared to doing it by eye (in my universe of 1 though)
I've installed a few SRAM eTap AXS front derailleurs with SRAM's dedicated positioning tool and it doesn't actually set up yaw as perfectly as I'd like, mostly with a little toe-in. I then refined the yaw by eye and no setup I've done has ever dropped chains.
@@sbccbc7471 yeah I agree, I think the key here is each frameset slightly different geometry, that’s what I’ve also noticed which effects yaw etc
lol who would of thunk it
Grant, what a goofball love the acting!!!!!!!!!!! hahahahhahah
Yes please more tutorials as well!!!
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for when swapping my big chainrings and adjusting my FD!
Do you have a recommendation for which SRAM wedge you would use on a SL8. None of mine seem to match
should be the middle one
So helpful. Planning to take my derailleur off to do a full cleaning this weekend
For everyone performing this SRAM front derailleur adjustment, please make SURE to use a NEW SRAM Powerlock when installing the chain back onto the drivetrain. SRAM Powerlocks are one-time use ONLY. I have heard of snapped chains causing serious injuries/deaths.
my frame is already scratched a lot since it sucking the chain, this stupid etap rival. what chain catcher would fit ?
Loook at kedge in models that work for your bike
I wish Shimano makes that same tool. Although I've never had issue installing Shimano FD.
To be fair, I've never had much difficulty (if any) installing any front derailleur. Shimano front derailleur installation is so straight-to-the-point.
I have a force wide derialleur. Dont see a place for the brace. Am I missing something?
Hi! Are you pro-used master link for sram flat top?
hahaha yes if it is new or used a couple times it usually good, but over 5 or more times replace
I run master links until i dont get a firm click. If it felt like it clicked on too easy, its going to click off too easy also.
I tend to use them more than 5 times. This is based off both KMC and YBN chains.
Do you lock tight your B limit screw?
I do not but i have seen people talk about that we have really cmooth roads here
Will the AXS tool work with the old Red 22 Etap as well?
Cheers Matze
no this is new one
Some of our pack riding sram - not a single chain drop on our tram with sram in two seasons. The system is reliable if setup correctly
truth
Better yet ride Shimano on the road ride SRAM 1x on gravel or mtn
I recently purchased Canyon Aeroad cfr with the now old red and had the problem chain go off the big ring coming ftom the small and canyon servicecenter adjusted for me and it has been working for 4-5 trips but now it started again 7 times the last 2 trips despite I am carefully shifting not to make it happens. I ordered the new red front shifter and canyon service center will mount on the bike for me. Do you think I solved the problem and what is the name of the small thing that presses against the frame? Do I need one of those to secure the chaindrop even more
I had ongoing issues, which were caused by the mounting bracket being spray painted. Once the paint was sanded off... no more chain drops.
thats wild, so weird
@@GCPerformance18 the bike brand, in newer models, doesn't paint the bracket anymore. I was hating on Sram so much as it cost me races. But I haven't had an issue in over a year now, it was really a simple solution in the end.
Did anybody else found themselves tilling your head to get a better look when GC was doing a close up….lmao 🤪🤣😂
hahahah
So do you put on a brand new master link? Even if the bike and chain are brand new out of the box, 0 miles?
no I do not, tbh i know sram says too but its fine
Thanks really good video and a definite plus one for you to show work on the rear derailleur
thank you!!
Great video. Did exactly everything you demonstrated. Chain still dropping from big ring. 😭
One of the secrets on SRAM derailleurs is using Locktite on the adjustment screws. They loosen over time unless you fix them, and then you'll end up with dropped chains and scratches on your beloved steed.
nice good info
Is there a parts number or name (maybe I missed it in the video) to try and order them from you or sram? I get more dropped chains than I like and want to see if this solves that issue.
Edit; Found on of them - SRAM 12-speed Front Derailleur Alignment tool part number is 00.7618.170.000. Couldn't find the wedge thing.
very very nice
I like your channel, great stuff usually but this video was weird. All the steps you mentioned including the "plastic piece" is included in the SRAM official installation video.
I've done multiple SRAM AXS bikes and never had a chain drop. Only drops been in Shimano bikes. Also I haven't heard any of my friends having problems.
Is this a problem only for the shops/guys/pro-teams who don't follow the instructions???
You would be suprised how many customers bikes come into my store who don’t not set up the front der correctly, we don’t experience a lot of chain drop here because no one shifts front der but a lot of people talk about this
Hey Boss! GC performance ☺️
Please help!!! 🙏🙏🙏
Please.
I have the piece, BUT, missing the screw/tiny bolt.
Could you please help with (if possible) the measurements of the screw.
Diameter and length. Would highly appreciate ❤
rough!! where are you located? just go into a store and get one
@ That easy ?? 😌
Okay! Will sure try! Thank you for the advice!
Wth my old 105 mechanical never dropped the chain. Why the heck expensive groupset suffer that problem?
shimano has patents on there front mech and it is nice, sram has ther eown saystem to work around shimano so it has some issues
I was going to say. My 105 di2 doesnt drop chains.
What about if my chain drops from big ring to small ring only when im changing the rear cogs?
Then you have chainline problems, no SRAM eTap AXS groupset I've worked with and set up ever did that. If you're saying that with the front derailleur also being actuated by itself, Sequential Shift Mode is on.
@@sbccbc7471 no it's not sequential shifting that's turned off. It happens only sometimes when shifting rear cogs, it will occasionally drop the big ring to little without the front derailleur moving
this setup should take care of both shifting over the top and the bottom, while setting the limit screw in the video this should make the front der need to be in the exact right plac e
@@GCPerformance18 thank you! I'll make a slight adjustment to the limit screw as you've shown.
I've yet to have a chain drop on the updated Force group. My Rival front mech drops all the time so I'm definitely going to use your tip.
Couldn’t find the plastic piece on Sram and it doesn’t look like there space for it on the Specialized SL8 frame
yes this is, they make 3 of them, I have installed them myself
@@GCPerformance18 could you please send me the part number
I think the slides look cool but I think they would be even better if they were more like recovery slides. Hoka was the first brand that I saw make them and they seem to be popular with runners especially after races and hard workouts. Would be sick to have some GC performance recovery slides for the drive home after a long ride
that would be sick, we could spin it both ways lol.... i use them when I go to and from a ride lol
This was a great video and perfect timing! Not only am I just finishing my first full build but my other bike has been dropping the chain. Will do this later today! Also is there a way or is it possible to use a 10/36 cassette with a Red axs derailleur or am I actually limited to a 10/33.
Usually the 10-33-max SRAM RD will work with 10-36 cassette, but it depends on the bike/derailleur hanger...
Or you can wait for the new SRAM Red coming next week, that one will have Red 10-36 cassette/RD combo :)
I hope it helps
I have a used SRAM Rival AXS group, and I never got that special set up tool. Is it possible to buy one somewhere?
Go to your local bike shop
I have an orbeya orca.I fight my front chain ring every time I go for a ride.I just wouldn't check.I have that little support, but it's not even touching the frame.It's almost touching the tire now.I will put my bike back on my bike.Stand and readjust everything like you've showed me.Thank you for this video.I appreciate it
Très simple le réglage de SRAM merci pour ta vidéo :)
you are welcome
Thanks. Does Shimano have a guide?
Shimano front derailleur installation never needs that kind of guide. Just set it up with no toe and 1 - 3 mm (I personally do 1.5 mm) above the large chainring's teeth.
nope jsut setup and go
thank you, where can i find that small piece or whats the official name of that piece so i can look for it. By the way i ride a VR RCR force axs !
Dammm I rode that bike for a while it’s fun. Ask your dealer for it they can order
@@GCPerformance18 mate, my dealer is decathlon in france, trust me its better if i make the research myself 🤭
Any update on the wheeltop eds tx?
I rode it yesterday got about just over 100 miles on it and the group is running very nice and still holding charge since i started, the only downside to the group is the app and how to set it up and ajust the gears, it sucks but with patience it works
The opening of video had me thinking Phil Swift was going to pop up and say “fix that dropped chain with Flex Seal!”
hahahahha I was going for infomercial style
On a Colnago C68 the Sram height guide tool mounts the mech too low, because of the laid back angle of that frames seat-tube (you have to manually nudge mech up a bit)
Yeah, it's not perfect. In my case, there's too much toe-in when set up with the guide, so I always had to refine the adjustment manually.
yea some bikes it is not always exact like some enthusiast brands but it is a great starting point
Don't ever increase your video production 😂😂😂😂. We love you and the thumbnail is jokes
lol I am happy you all love it
One of the best videos for FD setup on SRAM I have seen! A+++++
I am changing out my Rival AXS to full Force D2 this fall and my Rival FD has that frame block and I assume it will be reused on the Force FD????
A 22 min video on how to adjust a front derailleur..what is going on?
Hahahaha it’s for the people who need it to be idiot proof
@@GCPerformance18 Its not you..its needed..but the average cyclist will never attempt adjusting these if having to watch a 22 min video..Sram front derailleurs should be idiot proof and still far from it..and now the Red upgrade is $3k with “better” braking and more “precise and faster shifting?” I hear its still not up to par with Shimano..unbelievable..
@@GCPerformance18 wait, i think i might be lost...
Can we get a deep dive on the thing-a-majig?
Do you think the red SRAM tool works with Shimano?
No.
no it does not but the sticker on the front derailer helps a lot on a new setup
Electronic controlled FD but the limit stoppers are mechanical(screws) not limit switches or cam limit switches.
I like these Mechanic tip videos. Good stuff, thanks.
Any advice on fixing sram chain drop off the inner ring with a down shift? Has been a persistent problem for me despite installing per the video.
limit screws?? that would be the biggest thing to check, to make sure they are as close as they can be for tolerance
@@GCPerformance18 thanks. Yes, checked, close as can be for tolerance after install with the sram tool, installed the wedge as well. Still dropping, talked to sram and they said "just use our troubleshooting guide". Thinking I may just install a chain catcher.
for me, it drops in the other direction - between small ring and bottom bracket shell. Even with a K-edge chain catcher it, somehow, still drops between the small-ring and BB shell.
Sounds like the chain catcher was not installed properly if there was enough space for the chain to go down still.
If I attempted this at home, it would guarantee a trip to the bike shop and some choice garage profanity. 🤪
hahaha truth
I just adjusted the limit screws on the front mech to a hairline of distance from the chain. Next step if this does not work: remove one (actually two) links from the chain, and ease, a little, the b-screw.
yea there are steps to everything and sometimes it goes through a troubleshoot process
That braze against the frame is not necessary or even possible when you use the official brazeclamp from SRAM I suppose? From personal experience; please be careful with those low and high limit screws because when bolted in too far they can really mess up your mech and that is one expensive mistake potentially, believe me lol....
The Force D2 fd has a redesigned cage. There should be less chain drops
yes i heard that which should be good
i never have this issue, because my bike is 1 by 12, you recommend put a chain guide? Only for security
I used one on my mtb 1×10 with a Shimano SLX rear derailleur that didnt have a clutch. Never dropped a chain. And shifting was smooth and easy without the resistance from the clutch.
I can fix it too. Throw the Sram garbage in the trash and embrace the proper Shimano bits.
lmao jeeeeze
Average blindly brand loyal brain rot
My Shimano bikes rarely drop their chain. My SRAM bikes frequently drop their chain. Oh, Shimano hoods are more comfortable too.