This is a brilliant design. Just rigged it up in my garage, and it works FLAWLESSLY once you get the oil drip and airflow just right. ZERO smoke or odor. Now I got free and efficient heat for the winter...Simply amazing. thank you for sharing, Kevin!
I wish every video that explains and shows an individual's experience on something that i watch on UA-cam were as helpful and relatable as this one. He gives an explanation of what HE did and i can add or subtract what info i want and showed it very well. Thx sir.
Great video, thanks for sharing, this is what I was looking for, something simple to burn my old oil up and heat my garage. And thanks for not adding any music.
Kevin, this is by far the best method of waste oil heating I've seen yet. Thank you, i think when i get my cabin done this will be my heat source. Thank you very much. 👍👍👍
When using in very cold weather don't walk away and go inside to let the room warm up. After using one in the 60's as the oil warms up in will feed faster and faster almost burned down shop when is ran away with it's self.
Awesome work. I live in Wisconsin. I have a pellet stove in my basement. It keeps my hardwood floors warm during the coldest months. Since the pellet stove already has a fan in it, it'd be perfect for a conversion. I'd simply go back to doing my own oil changes...
Reminds me so much of my grandma and grandpa's gravity fed coal oil stove (heater), they had in their living room on their farm back in the 50's and 60's and later on. (K1) old brown warm morning. I remember grandpa turning a little knob or something to let the coal oil flow, then he would light it. Back then there wasn't anything such as a "box fan", just the old metal blade fans that he set behind it. It actually oscillated and I remember the cord was like a green cloth wrap on it. Then in the kitchen, they had a coal fired Warm Morning.
Clear out the stack does not mean clean out the stack other than not seeing the heavy unburned particulates . you still are producing a lot of hydrocarbons , especially with a oil based fuel, if you hook up a snooper at the top of the stack readings would be right off the scale ( solution ) you add a flue catalytic converter ( they are different than a car cat ) . when temp reaches about 600 deg you redirect flow to cat it ignites and burns off the hydrocarbons ( up to 2000 deg) just like a car. Granted you have the cost of the cat but then again your fuel source is cheap, I did that with mine . you also have benefit of extra residual heat from cat for shop heat. just a small step to clean up the unseen and good for everybody.
Hey Kevin... I'm impressed with the simplicity of your design. I may incorporate this in a wood fired boiler I am presently repairing for my shop. I'm now going to find your build video... Thanks man. Cool setup.
great video... im in massachusetts and planning on building one but all the videos i see are way over built... this is simple and works just what i need...
wow ok. Much more durable than I would have expected! Firewood is plentiful here in the northeast but I will be moving out to Castle Valley Utah in the future where wood is a little more scares . I could see heating my cabin for virtually free now. Thanks Kevin!
Very nice build. I've been watching a lot of heater videos and the few I've found using old woodstoves as a starting point makes the most sense. Old stoves are somewhat obsolete, plentiful and probably cheaper than the cost of electricity, mig wire, cutting wheels and argon. When I build mine, it too will have a glass door as a quick glance once in a while will tell if all is well with the burn. I'm gonna guess that the only power tool you used was a 3/8 drill. FYI, Easy-off works great on white wall tires too. Remember those?
Kevin, this is an awesome, simple, and effective design. One improvement I might suggest is, similar to a rocket stove mass heater, you should include some sort of thermal mass (such as cob) either around the stove or around the exhaust prior to it leading vertically upwards out of the wall. This will act like a battery and will transfer more net heat to the room, even after the furnace is shut off.
I like this idea for a shop heater. I heat my house with wood 🪵. My house is 30x60 with a four foot hallway down the center. And what I do to move the air is to put a box fan at the end of the hallway in front of the bedroom blowing the cooler air on the floor towards the wood stove that’s in the living room. It works great if you hold a candle 🕯️ up high the flame 🔥 will be leaning over in the direction of the hot air flow. And held low it goes in the direction of the cold air. I just leave the fan on low.
Cool video and great job. I'm interested if you have ever exceeded the fuel ratio, or played with a variable speed fan. I used to work with brick kilns in a brick plant. Just curious if you ever tried to dial it in to get the most efficiency out of the amount of fuel your putting in. After you have complete combustion the excess air in not a bad thing but could be lessening the heat output per amount of fuel. Sorry for the nerdy question, and once again cool video.
As a matter of fact I did add a rheostat to the blower. It gives much better control with less oil. You are correct too much air doesn’t hurt but doesn’t help because you’re pushing your heat up the pipe. Thanks for the input
Looks great !! Would be nice to have a better look at how you routed the blower tube out of the back of the compartment it's in. Or a description. Thanks for posting this build.
Coleman built these stoves for use with Diesel or home heating oil way back in the 70's I have one they throw great and require no electrics at all. How the blower is set up would be nice though.
@@BYprospector how would a coil of stainless tube, like underground gas line like 1/2 or 3/4 coil right above the bowl, have a water pump with heat exchanger/ old school brass radiator hanging on the wall taped into the house , the novelty of it.lol
What blower did you use for this do you have links. I ask cause all the mattress blowers I've found. Have warnings not to run them more then 15 mins. Thanks man awesome set up.
Doesn’t really matter what brand. They’re probably all made by the same manufacturer. The trick is to keep them cool and break them in slowly only running them only 15 minutes or so for 4 or 5 cycles. The one I have now runs continuously for 3 to 4 hours
I have lived with a wood stove for over 40 years. suggest that you listen to the comments below that suggest a single wall pipe. Indeed, some pipes are made sith large dents that increase heat exchange. I also suggest locating the stove or exit hole so that you have maximum horizontal run of the pipe. You will get far more heat from a long, single wall pipe. You mention the roar of the stove. What makes the roar? It is air rushing into the stove, through the stove, and up the pipe. Where does the air come from? Why, it is the nice warm air of your shop, creating a slight vacuum that sucks cold air in through every crack, hole and gap. You are heating air, only to rush it out of the building via your double wall, insulated pipe. In short, you are attempting to heat the interior of a wind tunnel. Controlling the draft will alleviate some of that. But piping in a source of outside combustion air will allow you to keep the heated air inside where it belongs, while outside air fuels combustion, then exits through the pipe with no vacuum at the walls. You can make it roar as loud as your heart desires, with no heat loss.
I’ve taken out my old back boiler stove, I’m wondering iff this set up would work on heating radiators from it, would be interesting to see iff it does.
Nice job, heavy gage single wall wood stove pipe works great, transfers heat into your space and is cheaper. You only need double wall going through the wall and if it's sleeved with a thimble your fine. Check with a local wood stove store and they can set you up or ask a HVAC guy as to local codes. Brake drums or old cast iron skillets work too. If you burn used motor oil or a mix check your door gasket etc, you want it air tight so you don't breathe anything and don't burn on days when the airs not moving or is heavy, don't want it to settle in low areas. Been doing it around here since there's been used oil to burn, just think and use a little common sense.
Gonna build one for the workshop. Wood stoves are already set up for flame. I'm going to use a cast iron pot and some bbq lava rock in the bowl. Try to induce swirl.
Unfortunately I don't have a old wood stove kicking around. I do want to weld one up with my powertig welder. Your video gave me some ideas on how I should design it. Thank you.
A friend of mine had a plain wood burning stove(a barrel) that dripped used oil on a log and used it for years, without any problem...a very primitive design...
I'm thinking of using this on a central heating boiler with the current heating oil burner removed and this in its place and wiring the water boiler thermostat to the Coleman blower to cut out when the water reaches temperature.what you think?
You are going to need to add a thermocouple to sense if your flame goes out to stop the oil via a solenoid. I’m not sure I would use this on a boiler due to its tendency to explode but if I did I wouldn’t stop the blower I would shut the oil off. On second thought, I probably wouldn’t do it at all. I’m not sure it can be done safely. Thanks for the question
Used ATF is great fuel for you old diesel. It's usually very clean already when it comes from a transmission shop. Driving it for years now and I even have a video on my channel where I do a coldstart on 100% transmission fluid and no pre glow at -2°C/28°F . Rough but still worked and smoke free after a few seconds
nice and simple , most of these questions could be answered by paying attention to your commentary . super dee duper simple ! it also appears it could go to wood easily
ok can i make q pin sized hole in a steel container that allows a drip of motor oil into woodstove without a bowl for fuel ontop of wood thats iinside woodstove? since 2 big holes one to put pannfor cooking one to feed driping oil?
I was going to suggest the very same thing, instead I will make this suggestion, get an old soup ladle and dip up some oil to pour into the burn chamber and never have to adjust the flow after you get it set .
One more question how did you cut the whole to install the flange. If you don't have a cutting torch can you drill threw the thick plate steel or no and it looks like you used 1/2 inch black pipe .Does the hole have to be that large ,let me know. Thanks again Dale
Looks efficient and burns clean. Would it still be possible to burn wood? If not, how could that be done? Having two diverse fuel sources is an advantage. Thank you.
If you want to burn wood and oil make sure you go with the size of pipe the stove requires, remove the bowl and oil feed, plug the hole and you have a wood stove.
Great job love the idea I have only one question can you tell me more information on the air forced into the unit can you show that part thanks for sharing
I use an air mattress pump. Mine is a coleman. Its best to use one that has been used otherwise they could fail pretty early. It needs to be burned in before it's used full time.
Good 1st try, the wood stove part makes things easy but check out blue flame nozzles . Increase the efficiency and way less emissions than orange flame. Less fuel more heat.
@@MrSprintcat check out this video ua-cam.com/video/u41tHg7ly_E/v-deo.html For a stove id prob build one like the first nozzle but leave out the top plate holes and so a 6 or 8 inch round heavy pipe chamber. . Basically just the inner 3rd of.that 1st hot water heater example he builds. Since you're in a stove and have prob 12 ft of chimney you should get enough draft to not need a blower on the inlet pipe. Prob need a damper on your chimney tho
I have a question- when you are going over the basics of the stove about 4;20 or so you see the waste oil drip pipe which I think is 1/2 black or galvanized but it looks like there is another tube there as well maybe an 1/8th or 1/4- I am summarizing that this may be an air pipe is this correct- if so how do you do a transference- I mean there is a T on back of stove with high heat rubber hose running to pump but how is it stepped down?? or am I totally seeing an illusion? I was also wondering how the oil would not go down into the air pump hose when it appears as the air hose comes into the T and the T is pointing straight down- wouldn't that cause the oil to run mostly into the air pump hose? Not trying to ask to hard of questions but trying to alleviate any problems I may come across when building
I have 2 old jungers propane stove, ones works great, the other is parts. I wonder if I take the rest of the propane parts out of the nonworking one if I could make that kind of conversion out of it. I know jungers made diesel burners but I haven't found one by me. BTW these stoves are cast iron from the 60s, jungers was a Wisconsin based company and is long gone, but their stoves live on and are bulletproof
Been watching these so did some scrap hunting and built my own small flame use motor oil burner. Works well so head over and take a look at it if you feel need
Oh Kevin.... that bowl- seems to me it might be a little tall? Directing the flame against the top mainly. But what if you cut the bowl off top or bottom (😂jk) cut the top lip down so the stove gets better heat dispersion. OH!!! OR! !!‐ from the top of the bowl- cut Down 1 1/2 inches, turn a 90 and cut across parallel with the top edge 2-3 INCHES. REPEAT! NOW... bend these out 30- 45°! Now you have introduced a swirling turbulence! ALWAYS helps with o2 molecules finding hungry fuel molecules! Nice build. What do you think? Anyone?
Not sure the cfm but I've been running the same coleman mattress inflator for two seasons with no issues but it is getting noisy on start up. They are about $20 bucks at Walmart. I've also added a light switch/dimmer to it to help control heat out put. Works great. I wouldn't have any hesitation running it 24/7
Isnt there some danger of the oil in the line catching fire? I mean if its dripping through half inch pipe theres gonna be air in there too right? Not familiar w these so just askin. Thx
How did you plumb the air in? Does the air come in the same tube that the oil drip is in? That's the only thing not clear. Great video! Thanks for sharing
On a slow steady drip, how long will it take to burn that whole 5 gal bucket empty of Tanny oil..??? Where you have that Tee for your fan air with that Tee facing down does it fill up with oil..??? After it gets warmed up will it run without the fan on..??? Have you tried to put a variable light dimmer switch on the fan AC supply line to vary the fan speed.??? (slow, med, high, etc.)
+Kevin Rushing Well I know that on the surface that's a silly question because it depends on how much heat you want so the higher you crank it, the faster you'd burn fuel, just wanted a rough idea... there is a county shop here where they park the snow plows that has a big one made of 6 55gal drums but it uses a regular oil pump they took off an old steam cleaner & they have a 350gal tank outside (5ft higher than the heater) & they put everything in there, oil, diesel, Tranny juice, gear oil, brake fluid, & they have one of those big stirrers you use to mix dry wall mud, hooked to a drill to mix it ever now & then.. but seriously I've dropped in on a snowy day & it would burn the paint on the walls if they had any, they are all old dry wood..
+Bob White i think it's a good question. Some of these guys can go a bit overboard on heater design but when you start building it is some much fun it's hard to know when to call it good
+Kevin Rushing Well those of us who like to Tinker, Design, & make things, most often are never "totally" satisfied with our designs, we seem to keep thinking of things we could improve on, or a better, or easier way to have achieved the same effect, & a lot of the time it's not just a better way, but more of just a different way we could achieve the same thing, that's part of the fun...
@@BYprospector thanks. Just watched it again and somehow missed that you already said that. This is one of the best waste oil heater videos I've seen. Great work
The oil is controlled by a valve and drips directly into the bowl. The blower starts when I slip the switch. The fan turns on automatically when the temperature reaches a preset temp
@@BYprospector ok from the video it looked like the air tube was after the oil valve, going into the same tube as the oil. Or is it completely a different tube and i just didnt catch it.
This is a brilliant design. Just rigged it up in my garage, and it works FLAWLESSLY once you get the oil drip and airflow just right. ZERO smoke or odor. Now I got free and efficient heat for the winter...Simply amazing. thank you for sharing, Kevin!
Glad it worked for you
@@BYprospector Just installed an identical conversion in my friend's wood stove. He's very pleased with it so far too!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics but you need to buy oil too, or got lots of reserve waste oil
@@pieterdeboer5361 Not an issue if you run a auto repair shop haha. I use less than a gallon of oil even on a cold day, it's very efficient!
I wish every video that explains and shows an individual's experience on something that i watch on UA-cam were as helpful and relatable as this one. He gives an explanation of what HE did and i can add or subtract what info i want and showed it very well. Thx sir.
Great video, thanks for sharing, this is what I was looking for, something simple to burn my old oil up and heat my garage. And thanks for not adding any music.
Thanks. Glad you liked it
Looking for a good use of old motor oil. Great design. Building this for my cabinet shop. Free heat. Love it! Thanks for sharing.
Hi Kevin well done your fire is one of the simplest conversions I've seen so far. Nice clear instructions. well done
thanks
Good job
This is the most effective waste oil burner I have seen so far, thanks !
Kevin, this is by far the best method of waste oil heating I've seen yet. Thank you, i think when i get my cabin done this will be my heat source. Thank you very much. 👍👍👍
Your attitude made this one of the best on waste oil burner heaters. Great video.
Thanks. Glad you liked it
When using in very cold weather don't walk away and go inside to let the room warm up. After using one in the 60's as the oil warms up in will feed faster and faster almost burned down shop when is ran away with it's self.
Awesome work. I live in Wisconsin. I have a pellet stove in my basement. It keeps my hardwood floors warm during the coldest months. Since the pellet stove already has a fan in it, it'd be perfect for a conversion. I'd simply go back to doing my own oil changes...
Reminds me so much of my grandma and grandpa's gravity fed coal oil stove (heater), they had in their living room on their farm back in the 50's and 60's and later on. (K1) old brown warm morning. I remember grandpa turning a little knob or something to let the coal oil flow, then he would light it. Back then there wasn't anything such as a "box fan", just the old metal blade fans that he set behind it. It actually oscillated and I remember the cord was like a green cloth wrap on it. Then in the kitchen, they had a coal fired Warm Morning.
Just what I've been looking for thanks 😊from 🇬🇧
Glad you like it😁
Had my first burn today kev and work great. Just want to stop by and say thanks for video 👍
Clear out the stack does not mean clean out the stack other than not seeing the heavy unburned particulates . you still are producing a lot of hydrocarbons , especially with a oil based fuel, if you hook up a snooper at the top of the stack readings would be right off the scale ( solution ) you add a flue catalytic converter ( they are different than a car cat ) . when temp reaches about 600 deg you redirect flow to cat it ignites and burns off the hydrocarbons ( up to 2000 deg) just like a car. Granted you have the cost of the cat but then again your fuel source is cheap, I did that with mine . you also have benefit of extra residual heat from cat for shop heat. just a small step to clean up the unseen and good for everybody.
No one cares, only climate pyschos
Hey Kevin... I'm impressed with the simplicity of your design. I may incorporate this in a wood fired boiler I am presently repairing for my shop. I'm now going to find your build video... Thanks man. Cool setup.
and i just installed a wood burning stove in my 14' cargo van. i think i will try this. thanks . John in Canada where it's frickin' cold.
Regarding your cargo van consider one of those 5kw Diesel heaters they are super energy efficient and a lot more practical for a van
Brilliant idea ,i tried different methods on controlling fuel when is so much easier controlling the air
Excellent! I love how simple it is to make & control!
Thanks for sharing!
Great video, has given me some ideas, thank you very much for making it. have a good one.
great video... im in massachusetts and planning on building one but all the videos i see are way over built... this is simple and works just what i need...
wow ok. Much more durable than I would have expected! Firewood is plentiful here in the northeast but I will be moving out to Castle Valley Utah in the future where wood is a little more scares . I could see heating my cabin for virtually free now. Thanks Kevin!
Very nice build. I've been watching a lot of heater videos and the few I've found using old woodstoves as a starting point makes the most sense. Old stoves are somewhat obsolete, plentiful and probably cheaper than the cost of electricity, mig wire, cutting wheels and argon. When I build mine, it too will have a glass door as a quick glance once in a while will tell if all is well with the burn. I'm gonna guess that the only power tool you used was a 3/8 drill. FYI, Easy-off works great on white wall tires too. Remember those?
Kevin, this is an awesome, simple, and effective design. One improvement I might suggest is, similar to a rocket stove mass heater, you should include some sort of thermal mass (such as cob) either around the stove or around the exhaust prior to it leading vertically upwards out of the wall. This will act like a battery and will transfer more net heat to the room, even after the furnace is shut off.
I like this idea for a shop heater.
I heat my house with wood 🪵.
My house is 30x60 with a four foot hallway down the center. And what I do to move the air is to put a box fan at the end of the hallway in front of the bedroom blowing the cooler air on the floor towards the wood stove that’s in the living room. It works great if you hold a candle 🕯️ up high the flame 🔥 will be leaning over in the direction of the hot air flow. And held low it goes in the direction of the cold air. I just leave the fan on low.
Cool video and great job. I'm interested if you have ever exceeded the fuel ratio, or played with a variable speed fan. I used to work with brick kilns in a brick plant. Just curious if you ever tried to dial it in to get the most efficiency out of the amount of fuel your putting in. After you have complete combustion the excess air in not a bad thing but could be lessening the heat output per amount of fuel. Sorry for the nerdy question, and once again cool video.
As a matter of fact I did add a rheostat to the blower. It gives much better control with less oil. You are correct too much air doesn’t hurt but doesn’t help because you’re pushing your heat up the pipe. Thanks for the input
Great stove just what i like.. simple and just works great..thanks..
Thanks Terry
Looks great !! Would be nice to have a better look at how you routed the blower tube out of the back of the compartment it's in. Or a description. Thanks for posting this build.
I will post another vid with more detail. Thanks for the input.
.
Coleman built these stoves for use with Diesel or home heating oil way back in the 70's I have one they throw great and require no electrics at all. How the blower is set up would be nice though.
Very nice design. Air you adding the air to the furnace through the T fitting? Thanks
Watch my how to video for building the T and thank you
thanks for the design. helped give me a warm place to work this winter! cheers!
You should post a video
@@BYprospector how would a coil of stainless tube, like underground gas line like 1/2 or 3/4 coil right above the bowl, have a water pump with heat exchanger/ old school brass radiator hanging on the wall taped into the house , the novelty of it.lol
What blower did you use for this do you have links. I ask cause all the mattress blowers I've found. Have warnings not to run them more then 15 mins. Thanks man awesome set up.
Doesn’t really matter what brand. They’re probably all made by the same manufacturer. The trick is to keep them cool and break them in slowly only running them only 15 minutes or so for 4 or 5 cycles. The one I have now runs continuously for 3 to 4 hours
Awesome job my man you are a legend thank you for the good explanation
Very nice . I want to build one like yours. Very cool thanks for showing
Very nice clean emitting oil burner like the idea, now looking for a stove
Thanks for sharing! Can I use used cooking as well? Or do you find a certain oil burns better or is better to use? Thanks!
You can but it will jell up when it’s cold so it has to be preheated
I have lived with a wood stove for over 40 years. suggest that you listen to the comments below that suggest a single wall pipe. Indeed, some pipes are made sith large dents that increase heat exchange. I also suggest locating the stove or exit hole so that you have maximum horizontal run of the pipe. You will get far more heat from a long, single wall pipe.
You mention the roar of the stove. What makes the roar? It is air rushing into the stove, through the stove, and up the pipe. Where does the air come from? Why, it is the nice warm air of your shop, creating a slight vacuum that sucks cold air in through every crack, hole and gap. You are heating air, only to rush it out of the building via your double wall, insulated pipe. In short, you are attempting to heat the interior of a wind tunnel. Controlling the draft will alleviate some of that. But piping in a source of outside combustion air will allow you to keep the heated air inside where it belongs, while outside air fuels combustion, then exits through the pipe with no vacuum at the walls. You can make it roar as loud as your heart desires, with no heat loss.
Thanks for the comment. I'll keep it in mind
I’ve taken out my old back boiler stove, I’m wondering iff this set up would work on heating radiators from it, would be interesting to see iff it does.
Good question. I’ll have to educate myself a little before I try it. I’ve never even seen one except from the pictures I just looked at
Nice video & well explained.
My question is,where can purchase one of those fire proof cell phone?mines is just water proof....
very nice job brother thank you for such an awesome video
Glad it was useful
Very nice work,simple love it and working on mine with old wood burner ,thank you for sharing ,big hugs from Mn
Nice job, heavy gage single wall wood stove pipe works great, transfers heat into your space and is cheaper. You only need double wall going through the wall and if it's sleeved with a thimble your fine. Check with a local wood stove store and they can set you up or ask a HVAC guy as to local codes. Brake drums or old cast iron skillets work too. If you burn used motor oil or a mix check your door gasket etc, you want it air tight so you don't breathe anything and don't burn on days when the airs not moving or is heavy, don't want it to settle in low areas. Been doing it around here since there's been used oil to burn, just think and use a little common sense.
Can you show how you hook up the air pump please. I want to try this for my shop.
Thank you from
Maine
Watch my “How to” video. I think it will help
Could you please tell what make/model the wood stove is? I really like it.... Thank you
Gonna build one for the workshop. Wood stoves are already set up for flame. I'm going to use a cast iron pot and some bbq lava rock in the bowl. Try to induce swirl.
Did it work
Unfortunately I don't have a old wood stove kicking around. I do want to weld one up with my powertig welder. Your video gave me some ideas on how I should design it. Thank you.
A friend of mine had a plain wood burning stove(a barrel) that dripped used oil on a log and used it for years, without any problem...a very primitive design...
yes. this is a great little setup. cheap and efficient.
I'm thinking of using this on a central heating boiler with the current heating oil burner removed and this in its place and wiring the water boiler thermostat to the Coleman blower to cut out when the water reaches temperature.what you think?
You are going to need to add a thermocouple to sense if your flame goes out to stop the oil via a solenoid. I’m not sure I would use this on a boiler due to its tendency to explode but if I did I wouldn’t stop the blower I would shut the oil off. On second thought, I probably wouldn’t do it at all. I’m not sure it can be done safely. Thanks for the question
I like it. Well done
Thank for the video and awesome idea. Nice and simple. 👍👍👍
Used ATF is great fuel for you old diesel. It's usually very clean already when it comes from a transmission shop. Driving it for years now and I even have a video on my channel where I do a coldstart on 100% transmission fluid and no pre glow at -2°C/28°F . Rough but still worked and smoke free after a few seconds
Great job... but should you be aiming for a more bluish flame as yellow does suggest an incomplete burn...?
That would be correct for natural gas or propane
Easy excellent idea Kevin thank you. Can you tell me how much oil you use perhaps per hour or period of time? Thanks again.
Gordon Mitchell There are a lot of factors but on average about 5 gallons in 8 hours. I'm glad you liked the vid
That's great thanks again Kevin.
nice and simple , most of these questions could be answered by paying attention to your commentary . super dee duper simple ! it also appears it could go to wood easily
it could go to wood if you keep the original size stove pipe. Thanks Mike
Could you use a small propane tank for your bowl or would the heat be to much for it ?
Probably wouldn’t melt but seems like a lot of work for a bowl
Will it run on chunks of used truck tyres? Mine does & its fantastic for heating the shop for free
I haven't tried but I would say yes. I can still burn wood in it.
Hi Kevin, that is ausome how is the smell burning waste oil and can you burn any oil products . Let me know thanks very much Dale
Occasionally, if I don't light it correctly but otherwise no smell at all
Good tech info on the why stuff
Hi Kevin do you think you can line it with stainless steel tubing to heat water?
Sure. I would wrap the stack. Plenty of heat to heat water and it would look better
ok can i make q pin sized hole in a steel container that allows a drip of motor oil into woodstove without a bowl for fuel ontop of wood thats iinside woodstove? since 2 big holes one to put pannfor cooking one to feed driping oil?
If you use a ball valve in conjunction with the turn valve then you can toggle it on/off while keeping your flow the same :)
Good idea
I was going to suggest the very same thing, instead I will make this suggestion, get an old soup ladle and dip up some oil to pour into the burn chamber and never have to adjust the flow after you get it set .
With this design could you close the needle valve and pull your drip pan and you have a wood stove again, is it universal?
I wouldn't see why not... might have to seal off the hole where the pipe enters the stove??
One more question how did you cut the whole to install the flange. If you don't have a cutting torch can you drill threw the thick plate steel or no and it looks like you used 1/2 inch black pipe .Does the hole have to be that large ,let me know. Thanks again Dale
I used a 3/4 hole saw. Make sure and watch my how to video. It explains more about the air/fuel delivery
Many thanks Kev.
Looks efficient and burns clean. Would it still be possible to burn wood? If not, how could that be done? Having two diverse fuel sources is an advantage. Thank you.
If you want to burn wood and oil make sure you go with the size of pipe the stove requires, remove the bowl and oil feed, plug the hole and you have a wood stove.
going to build one of these for my shop this winter I live in the oil fields of Texas so we have tons of waste oil everywhere
Great job love the idea I have only one question can you tell me more information on the air forced into the unit can you show that part thanks for sharing
I use an air mattress pump. Mine is a coleman. Its best to use one that has been used otherwise they could fail pretty early. It needs to be burned in before it's used full time.
@@BYprospector thanks for the information
Looks good, an easy set up. Now how much oil will be use in a hr ? Or a day running.??
About 5 gallons in 8 hrs or so.
after seeing how easy it is im definitely going to ad a oil burner once I build a wood stove. im going to make a double barrel stove
Does your heat go straight up the smoke pipe, or is there a built in baffle to help keep the heat from escaping?
There is no baffle or heat exchanger in the pipe. You could add one but I wonder if it would plug up with soot
Good 1st try, the wood stove part makes things easy but check out blue flame nozzles . Increase the efficiency and way less emissions than orange flame. Less fuel more heat.
I've never heard of blue flame nozzles. Can you elaborate on this? Thank you
@@MrSprintcat check out this video
ua-cam.com/video/u41tHg7ly_E/v-deo.html
For a stove id prob build one like the first nozzle but leave out the top plate holes and so a 6 or 8 inch round heavy pipe chamber. . Basically just the inner 3rd of.that 1st hot water heater example he builds. Since you're in a stove and have prob 12 ft of chimney you should get enough draft to not need a blower on the inlet pipe. Prob need a damper on your chimney tho
I have a question- when you are going over the basics of the stove about 4;20 or so you see the waste oil drip pipe which I think is 1/2 black or galvanized but it looks like there is another tube there as well maybe an 1/8th or 1/4- I am summarizing that this may be an air pipe is this correct- if so how do you do a transference- I mean there is a T on back of stove with high heat rubber hose running to pump but how is it stepped down?? or am I totally seeing an illusion? I was also wondering how the oil would not go down into the air pump hose when it appears as the air hose comes into the T and the T is pointing straight down- wouldn't that cause the oil to run mostly into the air pump hose? Not trying to ask to hard of questions but trying to alleviate any problems I may come across when building
The Real Deal Pastor check out my video "How to make an easy waste oil heater. I think all your questions will be answered. God bless
ok I will thanks
I have 2 old jungers propane stove, ones works great, the other is parts. I wonder if I take the rest of the propane parts out of the nonworking one if I could make that kind of conversion out of it. I know jungers made diesel burners but I haven't found one by me. BTW these stoves are cast iron from the 60s, jungers was a Wisconsin based company and is long gone, but their stoves live on and are bulletproof
I'd love to see what you come up with. Would make a great how to video
Been watching these so did some scrap hunting and built my own small flame use motor oil burner. Works well so head over and take a look at it if you feel need
I haven't seen a functional BBQ lighter for at least 15 yrs. *brand new they are junk. Thanks for the video.
no KIDDING they make a money on shhit that dont light.......................LMAO
On the low end how much oil would you go through in a 12 hour period?
roughly 5 gal
@@BYprospector can you show how you hooked up the blower motor
Oh Kevin.... that bowl- seems to me it might be a little tall? Directing the flame against the top mainly. But what if you cut the bowl off top or bottom (😂jk) cut the top lip down so the stove gets better heat dispersion. OH!!! OR! !!‐ from the top of the bowl- cut Down 1 1/2 inches, turn a 90 and cut across parallel with the top edge 2-3 INCHES. REPEAT! NOW... bend these out 30- 45°! Now you have introduced a swirling turbulence! ALWAYS helps with o2 molecules finding hungry fuel molecules!
Nice build. What do you think? Anyone?
I’ll have to give it a try. Thanks for the input
Great PSA for wearing ear protection during your career to avoid low key shouting at cameras/people.
I'm planning on doing this same thing to my wood burner, just wondering about how much is the oil consumption of this setup. Thanks for video
Wondering the same
nice and simple
whats the flow rate to cfm and can that blower run 24/7
Not sure the cfm but I've been running the same coleman mattress inflator for two seasons with no issues but it is getting noisy on start up. They are about $20 bucks at Walmart. I've also added a light switch/dimmer to it to help control heat out put. Works great. I wouldn't have any hesitation running it 24/7
What if you drip like a liter of frying oils on your wood in your woodstove to give a little extra heat. would that work?
I've heard of it being done but I've never done it. It might cause some soot build up in the chimney
Do you get any grease film on the inside of your shop, or in the air?
No
What's it smell like though?
There's no odor unless your door seals are bad
Isnt there some danger of the oil in the line catching fire? I mean if its dripping through half inch pipe theres gonna be air in there too right? Not familiar w these so just askin. Thx
The oil drips at the very end of the pipe and the outgoing air keeps oil and any flame from being able to enter
How did you plumb the air in? Does the air come in the same tube that the oil drip is in? That's the only thing not clear. Great video! Thanks for sharing
The copper tube goes inside the metal tube ,the air and oil meet at the end of the pipe visible in the video .
On a slow steady drip, how long will it take to burn that whole 5 gal bucket empty of Tanny oil..???
Where you have that Tee for your fan air with that Tee facing down does it fill up with oil..???
After it gets warmed up will it run without the fan on..???
Have you tried to put a variable light dimmer switch on the fan AC supply line to vary the fan speed.??? (slow, med, high, etc.)
Bob check out my other video called "the sequel". 5 gal will last about 8 hours
and it won't run without the blower for combustion air. not efficiently anyway
+Kevin Rushing Well I know that on the surface that's a silly question because it depends on how much heat you want so the higher you crank it, the faster you'd burn fuel, just wanted a rough idea... there is a county shop here where they park the snow plows that has a big one made of 6 55gal drums but it uses a regular oil pump they took off an old steam cleaner & they have a 350gal tank outside (5ft higher than the heater) & they put everything in there, oil, diesel, Tranny juice, gear oil, brake fluid, & they have one of those big stirrers you use to mix dry wall mud, hooked to a drill to mix it ever now & then.. but seriously I've dropped in on a snowy day & it would burn the paint on the walls if they had any, they are all old dry wood..
+Bob White i think it's a good question. Some of these guys can go a bit overboard on heater design but when you start building it is some much fun it's hard to know when to call it good
+Kevin Rushing Well those of us who like to Tinker, Design, & make things, most often are never "totally" satisfied with our designs, we seem to keep thinking of things we could improve on, or a better, or easier way to have achieved the same effect, & a lot of the time it's not just a better way, but more of just a different way we could achieve the same thing, that's part of the fun...
Too much air blows your BTU's right out the chimney. It's a balancing act for fuel/air ratio. I DO like the simplicity of your conversion. Thanks!
...much of the heat from a stove gets emitted by the stove pipe, go with single wall until you hit the ceiling...
probably didn't want to go through the roof/shingles....pipe is plenty long
What type of bowl do you use? Want to make sure the bowl doesn't melt.
A stainless steel bowl I got at Walmart
@@BYprospector thanks. Just watched it again and somehow missed that you already said that. This is one of the best waste oil heater videos I've seen. Great work
This is great! Do you have any idea the rate of oil you burn? Like gallons/hour or day. It'd be nice to know how much I'd need to stock pile.
About 5 gallons in an 8 hour period
Where do you get the oil from? Is it like engine oil that you changed out of a tractor or truck, etc..?
I know a guy with a transmission shop. I get free used trany fluid
Great job
How many watts for the fan? A quiet fan would be nice
How does fumes not come out though the existing draft in the stove ? Did you seal them off?
With the right size pipe it creates a little natural draft. Heat rises and takes smoke with it
That beats the hell out of messing with burning wood
Nice set up you have there Larry The Cable Guy aka Kevin.
What keeps the oil from going down the air pipe before turning on the fan.
The oil is controlled by a valve and drips directly into the bowl. The blower starts when I slip the switch. The fan turns on automatically when the temperature reaches a preset temp
@@BYprospector ok from the video it looked like the air tube was after the oil valve, going into the same tube as the oil. Or is it completely a different tube and i just didnt catch it.
@@aaronwood3540 it might answer your question better if you watch my “how to” video
HI GOOD VIDEO how long does the 5 gal last ?
thanks Ed Lorotto Ontario Canada
5 gal lasts about 8 hours
Really good job, simple and effective
I would like to make something like this for my greenhouse, did you measure how long that bucket load of oil lasts. Thank you.
I would he worried about the lifetime of the blower. They tend to overheat and lock up fairly easy.
@@HardWhereHero :) I meant bucket load of oil:)
5 gallons in roughly 8 hours
You need to keep it cool and it will last for many months. Also break it in slowly. A few minutes at a time