Tip: Lower calibers have have more penetration, but deal less damage. Higher ones deal more damage, but have lower penetration. If you want to have a good tank, choose a caliber that suits your tank - if you have a light tank, that can only survive 1-2 shots, choose a small caliber, cause if you shoot in the right place (like ammo storage) you can still onehitkill the enemy. Also your tank will be faster and have better reload time, so you can dogde shots and fire when they are reloading. Edit: in the lower right corner you have a enemy tank meter - the number in the middle tells you how many there are in total, and red ring around it shows how many you defeated
Fun fact about tanks and drivability: there’s actually a “perfect” ratio between the length and width for optimal drivability! Off the top of my head I think it’s like 1.3:1 (so 30% wider than it is long), but I could absolutely be wrong. Edit: I’m not sure how this game works, but in theory, you could change the center of mass of the barrel by changing the thickness of the barrel - so by adding thickness to the rear or making it thinner in the front, you can move the barrels center of mass backwards, which would reduce the size of the counterweight you need
There's no health, it's like "war thunder" if one or two important module of ur tank get damaged u will die (ex: ammunition rack exploded, engine broken, crew dead)
@@pumbaboi6056 I main USA and minor Russia, but I'm currently taking an indefinite break from the game because of how bad majority plays and how many matches I can lose in a row (my record is 70 in a row back in early 2020). And I just made myself a Bob Semple Tank in Sprocket, and it doesn't drive very well, can barely climb 5 degree slope lol.
tip: make the angles a bit stepper so the shells would bounce at a higher degree so it wouldnt ricochet into another part of the tank, for example the Panther. the turret mantlet actually ricochet shot into the hull ( the body of a tank )
The angeling works bc when you hit a angled armor plate the shell has more armor to go through. Its hard to explane in text but search for a chart that explanes it better. Sorry for bad english.
I think most modern tank rounds fly too fast to actually bounce (they do bounce, but they're not solid at that point, mostly just molten metal), so angling mostly just makes armor have more thickness than a flat panel.
I like how scrapman said "I have a weak gun" Even though he attached a 75mm which is the m4 Sherman armament and it's good at Penetrating Edit : btw I recommend you playing warthunder because it is pretty cool and maybe a little frustrating
In the lower-left corner, the top bar is the the amount of shells left in your turret. The lower bar is the shells left in the hull. The left number is AP ammo and the right one is APHE ammo. I don't know how you switch the shell type... In the lower-right corner, the number is the amount of enemy tanks at the starts of the battle. The red right around the number fills up with every kill. That indicates how many tanks you have brutally murdered with your pancake. When it fills up completely, the mission ends.
fun fact having angled armor deflects bullets but also makes a huge diferance in its thickness, think of it as a square, from corner to corner it is thicker than from side to side(:
lol just started the vid but I swear it sounds like he almost said scrap mechanic instead of sprocket, or at least had to make sure he said the right name. great channel!
This was a funny episode. Ground clearance 101 by Scrapman. And disabled dosent equal dead. They can't drive but can still shoot. Interesting design choices. I do enjoy some out of the box ideas.
7:08 I think what you have at the end of the barrel is a counterwaight. It can potentially throw off the ballance of your gun thowards the end of the barrel 8:31 I think it is supposed to be put around the turret and protect the turret-ring
Scrapman, i love your videos! A couple of tips are to shoot on the side plates, also dont shoot at the turret, shoot in the exact middle of the tank. Hope this helps!
Tank Stans: "Nooo you can't just throw away any semblance of strategy or logic in favor of building your entire tank around a dumb gimmick" Scrap Man: "Ha ha flat tank go _squeesh"_
The thin round thing with flat side is normally used on tanks to protect the turret ring (the cylinder that connects the hull to the turret) so less armor is needed and it's less likely for a projectile to become wedged between turret and hull (that's what disabled Tiger 131 btw), so it's placed around the turret as a protective wall. Not sure if it works like that in Sprocket though.
A tank without a paint job, shows hits as marks in the tank. They will show long lines for the shallow hits and other shapes too. Fascinating to see the AI target the drivers sights. As they could not penetrate the front armour. For the MAX-Flat tank put the Round or the square (the one you used) mantlet in the body and remove the turret. The gun will not move Left or Right far but you can slew the tank to help with that.
The turret ring is an indication of the space the turret basket will be occupying in the hull. The lower it its and bigger it is, the more space within the hull it takes. However, the bigger the turret ring, the more space within the turret. There's the trade off there. 75mm is pretty standard for the time era. It's not a small round. If you went to something like 20mm, 30mm, or even 57mm; then you'd have a small round. That piece you're asking about, I believe, is a turret collar. It's supposed to go in the space between elevated turrets and the hull to provide some amount of protection instead of letting shells weasel their way into the squishy innards of the turret. Bottom right is the objective completion percentage. When you asked about it you had killed 3 out of 10 targets. The circle fills up after each kill. The only concept of health in this game is for your modules like your transmission and engine, and your crew. If they take any damage, an icon representing them will appear in the bottom left next to your ammo count. Yellow means slight damage, orange means moderate damage, red means crippling damage, and then dark red means dead. If you have the red fire extinguisher module on, if you catch on fire you can hold F to start to extinguish the fire as long as you have an able bodied crew member. But if you lose your gunner, you can't shoot. Lose your loader and your gun won't reload. Lose your driver and your tank will not move. The worst and easiest module to lose is your tracks. No repairs and they're exposed to be knocked out and if you get crippled and your cripple the last opponent on the wrong track, they'll careen off out of sight from you or into an angle in which you can't hurt them and they can't hurt you. The most frustrating way to lose. But I think you misread your history books there, Scrapman. The Germans created the FlakPanzer, not the FlatPanzer.
When I saw your first video on this game Scrapman, I considered getting it, just so I could build a tank in the same way I used to build them in Crossout. That is to say having the entire tank body enclosed between the tracks. It means having massive tracks, but who cares lol.
i dont play sprocket yet but i saw from other channel that: -you can shot enemy tank tracks to make them cant go (but can shoot) - there is crew setting so you can add more crew or decrease(like what you need)
First of all, Your gunner sight cant see to the right from that position. Second of all, you should but the center of mass on the cannon, back a bit, so its lighter and then you can make it larger... Third, you should increase the height of the body of the tank so people are laying down inside of it... Unless its automated lol, then it doesn't matter... lol
Quick tank driving tips from a WoT and War Thunder Player.... Always think with your hull, AND your turret. You're doing a lot of thinking with your turret, and not much with your hull. Though, it makes a bit more sense in consideration that you've made tanks with heavy side armor. On that note, angle your hull (not pointed straight at the enemy, or side-on, but a combo of both) to bounce shots more affectively. This could allow lighter side armor, and more maneuverability! And, when you're dealing with hills, be very careful about how you angle yourself vertically. Your bottom plate is always thinner, and more pen able than everything else. Don't show it. As for where to shoot. Weak points. (No duh, right?) View ports: anything you can see through is a weak point. Plus, shooting view points helps reduce their viewing capacity. Tracks (as you found in the first episode,) turret rings, cupolas (the big top viewport rings on the turret.) The sides and backs of enemies are usually thinner armor, and anything down low is usually gonna be weaker. Also, yes... All of this is _quick_ tips. This can be a very complex and diverse field that I could've gone quite a bit more into.
14:20 The damage you took is displayed in the bottom left with collared modules. Yellow meaning slightly damaged. Orange being heavily damaged. Red meaning destroyed. The circle filling up on the lower right of the screen is the remaining enemy count percentage.
A super short overview of the engines in this game is, more cylinders more power, more displacement. More power, also lower rpm. Always set the max rpm in advanced in the engine tab to about 100 less than the rpm max of the engine which is the number above the max and min rpm settings otherwise the transmission is useless and the engine may break. Transmission is engine power times the number set. If you tank feels underpowered you can set the transmission numbers higher. If it is hitting max speed set the numbers lower. The lower the number the faster the gear. Ps I play this game way too much and this am nerding out but hopefully this helps you somewhat and is understandable.
The circle in the bottom right has to do with enemies in the map and the progress to completion. You had one more tank left somewhere. There's ammo storage in bottom left. There are damage indicator colour icons, they only pop up when damaged, there is one for driver injury, gunner injury, treads heavily damaged and breach damage. Your tank was just perfectly fine is all XD. As for engine stats, left shortens the gear length and right extends it usually in games. Then there is base rpm stat. Honestly yeah I don't think you need to mess with it unless you want to create a turbine engine model tank XD. So yeah ... You've got most of it down but where you place your sights and hatches is kinda important because 1rst person and crew disable but in general not a big deal if you armour well. And you pretty much get everything else.
The circle is where your aiming, but not where the barrel ips ointing all the time (it takes time to turn). The larger arrow is where the cannon barrel is pointing, and there is gravity, so you need to aim a bit higher than your target if they are further away
So... in the spirit of wedge gang, check out the strv 103c tank... its literally a wedge xD Also, the tank from the first video was literally a udes 15/16 from world of tanks mixed with a chaffee turret... Still, the fact that an average person in the 21st century can come up with the same tank as the cumulative effort of 100 years of tank design is just funny xD This episode, the tank you made mostly represents the t100-lt or lt-432 from world of tanks. That thing is turret ring protection
that ring you asked what it was for I believe that is an outer armor ring used to hold a second layer of armor around the turret so it has to penetrate two layers of stuff
In order to make the gun much faster you have to make the barrel as skinny as possible. There is a motor speed or a turret speed modifiyer somewhere. If you want really good pen. You have to make the barrel diameter of 76(same diameter of the russian tank T34 family on early models.) You can take to a 88mm (same diameter of the tiger(tiga for real tanks. Pronunced in the correct way.) Or 54, 105(better HE with big Bore) 150mm,153, 65,78,75. On midwar and more further, most of 43,45, to 50mm guns will NOThave effect or the desired effect and penetration on enemy tanks. don't leave any sort of flat strip on the front or you will get penned in that spot. If you want, (you really don't wanna do it bc you will make the tank REALLY heavy and slow.) You can leve the flat spot and make it 100mm-150mm thick. For the tracks, if you want a tank to be a speed demon, put in a heavy engine, 12 cilinders, all the liters of power that the game offers and make the tracks really skinny and make the main powering gear rally big.
Here is a tip, look on the top left when building tanks, it will show you the time period, and here is the calibers for each period (WW1) 50mm (early war) 76-85mm (mid-late war) 88-105 mm
@ 8:25 I honestly don't know what it is either, like I think it is meant to sorta go around the turret as like a "protector" for the turret ring but I don't know
To that guy who said that aiming for the gun is bad, no. Depending on how accurate this game is, if you hit the gun on another tank right, you can get your shell into the barrel of the gun, preventing them from shooting and/or making them explode. If you don't get that almost impossible shot, disabling the gun as quickly as possible is probably your best bet.
Yah, that's true. If the enemy has a skinny barrel, if you get a shot on his barrel even to a side of the barrel. (it happens that if the barrel get hit on the side if it is thick it can shrug off you projectile) this capability depends on the caliber of your gun.
When shooting look for the flattest piece of armor on the enemy and shoot at it try to make the path of round perpendicular to the piece of armor your shooting for the best chance of penetration.
Scrapman: *shows comments telling him how bad he is at tank driving* Also Scrapman: *puts in a comment about how someone likes his videos between the other comments*
The number in the bottom right corner seems to be total enemy count and the ring around it indicates progress, its a terrible way to display progress but it is what it is.
Hey ScrapMan, I suggest next time you play this even if you think you finish off a tank put another shell into those tanks because then you will really know they are dead.
Turret is optional or part of the hull + diffrent mantlets have diffrent things like your mantlet has very little protection but had vision built in (if im right) and you can do good without rollers and always rwmember floor and glacis
I think he accidentally made a super penetrator round or those are just bad tanks, for future reference smaller calibers with higher powder power(I believe shell length) have really good pen but less actual damage whereas larger shells do more damage but have less pen. It’s mostly about the ratio of powder to round that effects ballistics and practicality, also if extra space is permitted more loaders can operate and significantly increase loading speed, frantic made a 75mm 60 rpm artillery style that packed a serious punch at the cost of some other functions
Tip: Lower calibers have have more penetration, but deal less damage. Higher ones deal more damage, but have lower penetration. If you want to have a good tank, choose a caliber that suits your tank - if you have a light tank, that can only survive 1-2 shots, choose a small caliber, cause if you shoot in the right place (like ammo storage) you can still onehitkill the enemy. Also your tank will be faster and have better reload time, so you can dogde shots and fire when they are reloading.
Edit: in the lower right corner you have a enemy tank meter - the number in the middle tells you how many there are in total, and red ring around it shows how many you defeated
#World of tanks blitz
@@astabc2665 What?
@Melon um
insufficient iq haver
(no offense)
Wot tips
Could we possibly see a tank designed around and souly to house the biggest functioning cannon? I think that could be fun.
Like a 38cm SturmTiger?
@@happyterror531 Exactly like that! I just wasn't sure many people would know what that is.
We need this
biggest is 250mm and 1.2m long, but most penetration is around 147mm
@@happyterror531 there’s 380mm cannon?!?!
Fun fact about tanks and drivability: there’s actually a “perfect” ratio between the length and width for optimal drivability! Off the top of my head I think it’s like 1.3:1 (so 30% wider than it is long), but I could absolutely be wrong.
Edit: I’m not sure how this game works, but in theory, you could change the center of mass of the barrel by changing the thickness of the barrel - so by adding thickness to the rear or making it thinner in the front, you can move the barrels center of mass backwards, which would reduce the size of the counterweight you need
There's no health, it's like "war thunder" if one or two important module of ur tank get damaged u will die (ex: ammunition rack exploded, engine broken, crew dead)
Yea, that's why You can preaty much one shot any enemies if you got a good gun.
Eh, who really needs a crew? Ghost Tank!
FINALLY. SOMEBODY WHO PLAYS WAR THUNDER. What nation are you guys maining? I main Germany and minor Russia. I am minoring Russia for the T50
@@pumbaboi6056 I main USA and minor Russia, but I'm currently taking an indefinite break from the game because of how bad majority plays and how many matches I can lose in a row (my record is 70 in a row back in early 2020). And I just made myself a Bob Semple Tank in Sprocket, and it doesn't drive very well, can barely climb 5 degree slope lol.
@@pumbaboi6056 Italian tanks, German Airplanes. No boats.
"So we need to hide a tank in a desert"
"How do we hide a *TANK* in a desert?"
Scrapman:
you can actually resize mantlets and other stuff by holding shift and scrolling!
Why are you in my backyard man
I told you I don’t have any more cookies
Lol
Yes
Lol
Ok
... Read more
@@josephperalta4790 bro you got me
@@josephperalta4790 you monster
tip: make the angles a bit stepper so the shells would bounce at a higher degree so it wouldnt ricochet into another part of the tank, for example the Panther. the turret mantlet actually ricochet shot into the hull ( the body of a tank )
Yeah well it doesnt work like that in this game..
@@-FARKI i actually saw the first episode and they bounced a lot idk if it was a concidence or really a strat
The angeling works bc when you hit a angled armor plate the shell has more armor to go through. Its hard to explane in text but search for a chart that explanes it better.
Sorry for bad english.
@@efbiaj your English is pretty good, just need to correct “explain” is all.
I think most modern tank rounds fly too fast to actually bounce (they do bounce, but they're not solid at that point, mostly just molten metal), so angling mostly just makes armor have more thickness than a flat panel.
Imagine going to war and the enemy have a pancake tank
lol
i mean.. you8d probably not even see it in the 2ft grass felid
That's kinda what the Swedes were thinking when they decided to make the Strv 103. A low-laying tank
@@admDanRyan Ja det er en meget sjov men sej tank
@@Very_Grumpy_Cat Absolut.
i did not expect the tf2 memes of heavy but i appreciate it to all the og viewers
I like how scrapman said "I have a weak gun" Even though he attached a 75mm which is the m4 Sherman armament and it's good at Penetrating
Edit : btw I recommend you playing warthunder because it is pretty cool and maybe a little frustrating
In the lower-left corner, the top bar is the the amount of shells left in your turret. The lower bar is the shells left in the hull. The left number is AP ammo and the right one is APHE ammo. I don't know how you switch the shell type...
In the lower-right corner, the number is the amount of enemy tanks at the starts of the battle. The red right around the number fills up with every kill. That indicates how many tanks you have brutally murdered with your pancake. When it fills up completely, the mission ends.
ScrapMan: it would be nice to have a display of all you panels and their damages.
literally describes warthunder
“I don’t have to make it taller if I can make it longer” - the design team of the Churchill IV
Or The TOG II.... LOL
Can't get hit if the enemy can't aim far enough down to hit you
So the enemy has bad gun depreshion
@@astabc2665 *russian tech tree flash backs intensifies*
Mortars
The US army should hire scrapman, for his incredible ability to make tanks.
A thank that is FASTER that a turtle rabbits dont stand a chance
@@missingnoian7156 idk whats a “thank”
Scrapman: “Its hard to fit stuff inside a pancake”
Apple: hold my iMac
Nice
fun fact having angled armor deflects bullets but also makes a huge diferance in its thickness, think of it as a square, from corner to corner it is thicker than from side to side(:
lol just started the vid but I swear it sounds like he almost said scrap mechanic instead of sprocket, or at least had to make sure he said the right name. great channel!
This was a funny episode. Ground clearance 101 by Scrapman. And disabled dosent equal dead. They can't drive but can still shoot. Interesting design choices. I do enjoy some out of the box ideas.
You know what... I can't imagine of the germany engineer had this software/games back then.... Just how crazy their tank would be lol
Halo fellow +62
Instead of the flattest tank, do the tallest tank with a beefy turret.
7:08 I think what you have at the end of the barrel is a counterwaight. It can potentially throw off the ballance of your gun thowards the end of the barrel
8:31 I think it is supposed to be put around the turret and protect the turret-ring
Scrapman, i love your videos! A couple of tips are to shoot on the side plates, also dont shoot at the turret, shoot in the exact middle of the tank. Hope this helps!
Tank Stans: "Nooo you can't just throw away any semblance of strategy or logic in favor of building your entire tank around a dumb gimmick"
Scrap Man: "Ha ha flat tank go _squeesh"_
0:26 I like how he inserted a positive comment there XD
Now make a super tall tank that shoots directly into the top of the enemy.
The thin round thing with flat side is normally used on tanks to protect the turret ring (the cylinder that connects the hull to the turret) so less armor is needed and it's less likely for a projectile to become wedged between turret and hull (that's what disabled Tiger 131 btw), so it's placed around the turret as a protective wall. Not sure if it works like that in Sprocket though.
A tank without a paint job, shows hits as marks in the tank. They will show long lines for the shallow hits and other shapes too. Fascinating to see the AI target the drivers sights. As they could not penetrate the front armour. For the MAX-Flat tank put the Round or the square (the one you used) mantlet in the body and remove the turret. The gun will not move Left or Right far but you can slew the tank to help with that.
The turret ring is an indication of the space the turret basket will be occupying in the hull. The lower it its and bigger it is, the more space within the hull it takes. However, the bigger the turret ring, the more space within the turret. There's the trade off there. 75mm is pretty standard for the time era. It's not a small round. If you went to something like 20mm, 30mm, or even 57mm; then you'd have a small round.
That piece you're asking about, I believe, is a turret collar. It's supposed to go in the space between elevated turrets and the hull to provide some amount of protection instead of letting shells weasel their way into the squishy innards of the turret.
Bottom right is the objective completion percentage. When you asked about it you had killed 3 out of 10 targets. The circle fills up after each kill. The only concept of health in this game is for your modules like your transmission and engine, and your crew. If they take any damage, an icon representing them will appear in the bottom left next to your ammo count. Yellow means slight damage, orange means moderate damage, red means crippling damage, and then dark red means dead. If you have the red fire extinguisher module on, if you catch on fire you can hold F to start to extinguish the fire as long as you have an able bodied crew member. But if you lose your gunner, you can't shoot. Lose your loader and your gun won't reload. Lose your driver and your tank will not move. The worst and easiest module to lose is your tracks. No repairs and they're exposed to be knocked out and if you get crippled and your cripple the last opponent on the wrong track, they'll careen off out of sight from you or into an angle in which you can't hurt them and they can't hurt you. The most frustrating way to lose.
But I think you misread your history books there, Scrapman. The Germans created the FlakPanzer, not the FlatPanzer.
When I saw your first video on this game Scrapman, I considered getting it, just so I could build a tank in the same way I used to build them in Crossout. That is to say having the entire tank body enclosed between the tracks. It means having massive tracks, but who cares lol.
I’m pretty sure that the tracks in this game are a sight more vulnerable than Goliath tracks.
@@M_W_K Very true!
i dont play sprocket yet but i saw from other channel that:
-you can shot enemy tank tracks to make them cant go (but can shoot)
- there is crew setting so you can add more crew or decrease(like what you need)
First of all, Your gunner sight cant see to the right from that position. Second of all, you should but the center of mass on the cannon, back a bit, so its lighter and then you can make it larger... Third, you should increase the height of the body of the tank so people are laying down inside of it... Unless its automated lol, then it doesn't matter... lol
bro, but pancake gang
Quick tank driving tips from a WoT and War Thunder Player....
Always think with your hull, AND your turret. You're doing a lot of thinking with your turret, and not much with your hull. Though, it makes a bit more sense in consideration that you've made tanks with heavy side armor.
On that note, angle your hull (not pointed straight at the enemy, or side-on, but a combo of both) to bounce shots more affectively. This could allow lighter side armor, and more maneuverability!
And, when you're dealing with hills, be very careful about how you angle yourself vertically. Your bottom plate is always thinner, and more pen able than everything else. Don't show it.
As for where to shoot. Weak points. (No duh, right?)
View ports: anything you can see through is a weak point. Plus, shooting view points helps reduce their viewing capacity.
Tracks (as you found in the first episode,) turret rings, cupolas (the big top viewport rings on the turret.)
The sides and backs of enemies are usually thinner armor, and anything down low is usually gonna be weaker.
Also, yes... All of this is _quick_ tips. This can be a very complex and diverse field that I could've gone quite a bit more into.
Hey ScrapMan, try building the best tank you can. Shortest reload, fastest tank, etc.
Etc.
PROTECT DA AMMO AND CREWMEMBERS
@@grantwayl Bruh
14:20 The damage you took is displayed in the bottom left with collared modules.
Yellow meaning slightly damaged.
Orange being heavily damaged.
Red meaning destroyed.
The circle filling up on the lower right of the screen is the remaining enemy count percentage.
Half a year and 67 days of asking scrapman to do : we searched for "normal" on the workshop for perfectly normal
creations!
when th
You can get more space by decreasing the amount of ammo and fuel in your tank. You dont need that much anyway
A super short overview of the engines in this game is, more cylinders more power, more displacement. More power, also lower rpm. Always set the max rpm in advanced in the engine tab to about 100 less than the rpm max of the engine which is the number above the max and min rpm settings otherwise the transmission is useless and the engine may break. Transmission is engine power times the number set. If you tank feels underpowered you can set the transmission numbers higher. If it is hitting max speed set the numbers lower. The lower the number the faster the gear. Ps I play this game way too much and this am nerding out but hopefully this helps you somewhat and is understandable.
AYY thanks for making another sprocket vid, i enjoyed the last one and this one too
Maybe you could have a really tall tank with a tiny gun? Just a suggestion
The circle in the bottom right has to do with enemies in the map and the progress to completion.
You had one more tank left somewhere. There's ammo storage in bottom left.
There are damage indicator colour icons, they only pop up when damaged, there is one for driver injury, gunner injury, treads heavily damaged and breach damage. Your tank was just perfectly fine is all XD.
As for engine stats, left shortens the gear length and right extends it usually in games. Then there is base rpm stat. Honestly yeah I don't think you need to mess with it unless you want to create a turbine engine model tank XD. So yeah ...
You've got most of it down but where you place your sights and hatches is kinda important because 1rst person and crew disable but in general not a big deal if you armour well.
And you pretty much get everything else.
Also, things like fuel, ammo and crew impacts the internal space, so you can reduce them if you need to
Flat tanks are FLAT out amazing! It runs SMOOTHLY.
I find it hilarious one of the comments he showed was just "love your videos man" XD
0:26 he sneaked in a “love your videos” comment too
The circle is where your aiming, but not where the barrel ips ointing all the time (it takes time to turn). The larger arrow is where the cannon barrel is pointing, and there is gravity, so you need to aim a bit higher than your target if they are further away
4:40 tank looks like a cruasder tank if a maus tank fell on it or the sabeltooth tank
3:42 I like how he doesn't admit he made a joke lol
* shoots interwar tank with 75 mm gun * "I do have a weak gun"
OH MY GOODNESS!!! I'm commenting this after seeing it in action. It's like a rolling desert mattress!!! ROFLMAO!!!
1:31 the game starts talking scrap mechanic language and He INSTANTLY understood lol
Yooo, pancake gang!
hlebuw3k moment
So... in the spirit of wedge gang, check out the strv 103c tank... its literally a wedge xD
Also, the tank from the first video was literally a udes 15/16 from world of tanks mixed with a chaffee turret...
Still, the fact that an average person in the 21st century can come up with the same tank as the cumulative effort of 100 years of tank design is just funny xD
This episode, the tank you made mostly represents the t100-lt or lt-432 from world of tanks.
That thing is turret ring protection
"In order to shoot me they'll have to aim down" I'd like to call this the 'Oddjob effect.'
that ring you asked what it was for I believe that is an outer armor ring used to hold a second layer of armor around the turret so it has to penetrate two layers of stuff
In order to make the gun much faster you have to make the barrel as skinny as possible. There is a motor speed or a turret speed modifiyer somewhere. If you want really good pen. You have to make the barrel diameter of 76(same diameter of the russian tank T34 family on early models.) You can take to a 88mm (same diameter of the tiger(tiga for real tanks. Pronunced in the correct way.) Or 54, 105(better HE with big Bore) 150mm,153, 65,78,75. On midwar and more further, most of 43,45, to 50mm guns will NOThave effect or the desired effect and penetration on enemy tanks. don't leave any sort of flat strip on the front or you will get penned in that spot. If you want, (you really don't wanna do it bc you will make the tank REALLY heavy and slow.) You can leve the flat spot and make it 100mm-150mm thick. For the tracks, if you want a tank to be a speed demon, put in a heavy engine, 12 cilinders, all the liters of power that the game offers and make the tracks really skinny and make the main powering gear rally big.
the bottom right number is the number of tanks in the level and the red ring shows how close you are to winning
8:25 not to sure what the name is but it's a little armor ring that goes around the turret so it's protecting the actual turret ring it's self.
Loved the game play some more please
love ur vids! keep it up!
Here is a tip, look on the top left when building tanks, it will show you the time period, and here is the calibers for each period (WW1) 50mm (early war) 76-85mm (mid-late war) 88-105 mm
3:16 Heavy when he turns into Tank:
Wow. Flat gang!
ScrapMan. Really? You would do that?
The turrets are very strong part of the tank. Aim for the sides, belly, and back.
great vid again :D was wondering if it'd be possible to make like a sportstank :p so as light and speedy as possible haha
Yep an invisible sniper tank
Also SM if you want to know about tanks ask Drae he is a tank nerd so if anything ask him
you should make the largest tank ever
New Idea: Make A Tank Shape of Your Logo :) Your Gonna Have A Hard tIme (I Think?)
i love how theres just one comment that says love your vids when you said poeple were calling you bad a driving lol
Keep up the good work!
This video: * exists *
Russian engineers (ca.1940): Write that down write that down!
Omg new video about tanks, more pls
Can u make skycraper tank and add some wedge to it
@ 8:25 I honestly don't know what it is either, like I think it is meant to sorta go around the turret as like a "protector" for the turret ring but I don't know
Hi scrapman these videos are really good keep it up
To that guy who said that aiming for the gun is bad, no. Depending on how accurate this game is, if you hit the gun on another tank right, you can get your shell into the barrel of the gun, preventing them from shooting and/or making them explode. If you don't get that almost impossible shot, disabling the gun as quickly as possible is probably your best bet.
Yah, that's true. If the enemy has a skinny barrel, if you get a shot on his barrel even to a side of the barrel. (it happens that if the barrel get hit on the side if it is thick it can shrug off you projectile) this capability depends on the caliber of your gun.
When shooting look for the flattest piece of armor on the enemy and shoot at it try to make the path of round perpendicular to the piece of armor your shooting for the best chance of penetration.
Scrapman: *shows comments telling him how bad he is at tank driving*
Also Scrapman: *puts in a comment about how someone likes his videos between the other comments*
Me: Thinks of something
My brain: yo thats a flat sus
ScrapMan just keeps making tank destroyers. 😂
The number in the bottom right corner seems to be total enemy count and the ring around it indicates progress, its a terrible way to display progress but it is what it is.
Scrapman is facing a lot of problems making a flat tank its like tanks aren't meant to be that flat
The Ultimate Slab :D
I really live sprocket and i think you should Make IT a series
“i don’ have to make it taller, if i can make it longer”
same thing
Hey ScrapMan, I suggest next time you play this even if you think you finish off a tank put another shell into those tanks because then you will really know they are dead.
I love how people are mad a scrapman even though he doesn't study tanks every day.
Turret is optional or part of the hull + diffrent mantlets have diffrent things like your mantlet has very little protection but had vision built in (if im right) and you can do good without rollers and always rwmember floor and glacis
The thing that looks like a D is a ring sheald (it defends the ring if some one hitt between the turet and the body)
Me expecting that scrap man will make vids on free games
ScrapMan: Sike!!!
He has made vids on free games, just about a year ago.
this is a really good concept actually (wot players be like: i've seen that before!)
I'd love to see you make the quickest lightest tank possible.
Wedge gang tank
“it’s hard to fit stuff in a pancake isn’t it”
chefs:
Hopefully this becomes a series
make a giant spike
Do the first map, the ww1 one! Thats the most difficult i think
I like the new game. Keep the good work going
Scrapman, the number of tanks depends on the strength of each individual tank(which is determined by weight and stats)
I think he accidentally made a super penetrator round or those are just bad tanks, for future reference smaller calibers with higher powder power(I believe shell length) have really good pen but less actual damage whereas larger shells do more damage but have less pen. It’s mostly about the ratio of powder to round that effects ballistics and practicality, also if extra space is permitted more loaders can operate and significantly increase loading speed, frantic made a 75mm 60 rpm artillery style that packed a serious punch at the cost of some other functions