Good cover above a few branches. And as you have demonstrated previously, with a pole one could hitch climb on up into the tree for even better concealment, or position adjustment
Hey John, a couple of years ago I had 2 spots on public land that I justified as morning spots. But they were a pine & a white oak & both were busy once u were up into them. I was able to get paracord over a lone branch in each. A tough off-season climb in them using MRS. When I tethered into both trees I was able to install a Dan House 4' friction saver as a girth hitch device. However the 10.4 mm rope I used then made it almost impossible to thread through that tube on the end that didn't have the spliced loop. The key was to climb easily & quietly up the tree. But even with a 9.5 rope I have now going against the orientation of sending the climbing rope up over going left to right & then having to finish it just isn't practical.
And this sounds like a perfect application for double stationary rope technique. We don't need a friction saver because there is no friction. Please direct your attention to my playlist on dsrt if you are not familiar with it
Thank you for this. Thanks for the commitment to drive 200 miles to find a ragged old pine! I appreciate your commitment to safety and have a backup on the guarda hitch going up and the munter going down. What color ropes do you use for your hunting system? Your red rope looks much more flexible than the sterling 7mm cord. Your new agile hitch is so much easier to tie on at the tree. From what I can tell from your videos, on SRT you prefer the longhorn agile and on SRT the Agile with an overhand bend but only have a single wrap at the end...Is that still current?
You're welcome! As for your questions, I believe most are answered on my website. I have many ropes. For a DSRT system, I prefer 8mm ropes but haven't found the perfect rope. RescTech and Oplux are a bit light in color and absorb a lot of water. Mammut Alpine Dry is a much better color, and great with water, but is dynamic and stretches more. Given that I sometimes SRT, I prefer the 9.5mm Ghillie Rope which is great for either method. The red cord I use is 7mm Sterling and I switch to the camo color in hunting applications. Longhorn Agile for SRT and Agile or JRB Ascender for DSRT. Surf around my website for details, favorite knots, and discounts: jrbtreeclimbing.com/
How do you overcome a big branch that touches the rope (and presses with weight) while you are climbing to the main anchor? How do you raise the friction hitch or the device above that branch to continue? for me it is difficult cause I got to separate the rope from the branch and at same time push up the hitch Thanks John 👍👍
That's a good question. 1. It's important to ensure that after the throwball goes over the crotch, we draw it UP to the crotch and allow it to slowly descend straight down. That way, the only branch it is touching is something directly under it. The rope should always be completely straight up and down when we start our climb, and if it's touching a branch below it, it's only a minor deflection. 2. As we climb, the foot that's on the tree can be placed left or right slightly and allow us to sway to one side. As the sway takes us to the intended side, that's when we execute our rising move and a quick shove of the hitch. If we stand first and then try to sway, it's more difficult.
Good cover above a few branches. And as you have demonstrated previously, with a pole one could hitch climb on up into the tree for even better concealment, or position adjustment
Hey John, a couple of years ago I had 2 spots on public land that I justified as morning spots. But they were a pine & a white oak & both were busy once u were up into them. I was able to get paracord over a lone branch in each. A tough off-season climb in them using MRS. When I tethered into both trees I was able to install a Dan House 4' friction saver as a girth hitch device. However the 10.4 mm rope I used then made it almost impossible to thread through that tube on the end that didn't have the spliced loop. The key was to climb easily & quietly up the tree. But even with a 9.5 rope I have now going against the orientation of sending the climbing rope up over going left to right & then having to finish it just isn't practical.
And this sounds like a perfect application for double stationary rope technique. We don't need a friction saver because there is no friction. Please direct your attention to my playlist on dsrt if you are not familiar with it
@@jrbtc Heading out hunting now here in MN but I'll check it out later for sure. Thanks John.
Thank you for this. Thanks for the commitment to drive 200 miles to find a ragged old pine! I appreciate your commitment to safety and have a backup on the guarda hitch going up and the munter going down. What color ropes do you use for your hunting system? Your red rope looks much more flexible than the sterling 7mm cord. Your new agile hitch is so much easier to tie on at the tree. From what I can tell from your videos, on SRT you prefer the longhorn agile and on SRT the Agile with an overhand bend but only have a single wrap at the end...Is that still current?
You're welcome! As for your questions, I believe most are answered on my website. I have many ropes. For a DSRT system, I prefer 8mm ropes but haven't found the perfect rope. RescTech and Oplux are a bit light in color and absorb a lot of water. Mammut Alpine Dry is a much better color, and great with water, but is dynamic and stretches more. Given that I sometimes SRT, I prefer the 9.5mm Ghillie Rope which is great for either method. The red cord I use is 7mm Sterling and I switch to the camo color in hunting applications. Longhorn Agile for SRT and Agile or JRB Ascender for DSRT. Surf around my website for details, favorite knots, and discounts:
jrbtreeclimbing.com/
How do you overcome a big branch that touches the rope (and presses with weight) while you are climbing to the main anchor? How do you raise the friction hitch or the device above that branch to continue? for me it is difficult
cause I got to separate the rope from the branch and at same time push up the hitch
Thanks John 👍👍
That's a good question. 1. It's important to ensure that after the throwball goes over the crotch, we draw it UP to the crotch and allow it to slowly descend straight down. That way, the only branch it is touching is something directly under it. The rope should always be completely straight up and down when we start our climb, and if it's touching a branch below it, it's only a minor deflection. 2. As we climb, the foot that's on the tree can be placed left or right slightly and allow us to sway to one side. As the sway takes us to the intended side, that's when we execute our rising move and a quick shove of the hitch. If we stand first and then try to sway, it's more difficult.
@@jrbtc thanks John, I think I understand