I tried DSRT, and I liked it ok, but I find that I prefer SRT. This is basically the exact setup I’ve been using except instead of the locked Scott’s bowline I use an alpine butterfly for my canopy anchor loop and a longhorn agile for my hitch. If I need to hitch climb I just untie the alpine butterfly and tie maverick hitches (or sometimes I’ll use the moose hitch and rig both ends for the JRB cinch, it seems to be easier to advance with the pole for me) and climb. Absolutely love the system John, thanks for all the incredible info you put out here for free.
@seabeebillm Sounds like you have a nice Toolbox and know how to use em. I would like to know what why DSRT is less appealing than SRT. Because for me, I love that I don't need to set an anchor and that the friction hitches are only holding half my weight so it's very overdesigned. Have you tried DSRT with the Longhorn Agile and a single shove with one hand instead of a double show with both hands?
@@jrbtc hey John, thanks for the quick response…yeah, not sure I can really nail down why SRT seems to work better for me…I’m a big guy (6’2” and I’m walking around at about 240) so that might have something to do with it. I didn’t really have an issue with the shove, SRT just feels much easier and more fluid and (so far) I don’t mind setting the canopy anchor. I definitely did have more issues with the double ropes and the Munter hitch…I use the full super Munter and it got sketchy a few times with the 2 ropes, issues with twisting. Sorry, that’s not a great answer to your question…it’s definitely not an issue with the method, I think it just boils down to how the climb “feels” to me. Anyways, thanks again, this is so much better and safer (and funner) than how I’ve climbed the last couple of seasons.
I've climbed the last 2 seasons using DRT. This year I made the switch to my below commented system. I should note that there is a significant reduction in friction when ascending. With DRT you have the friction of the rope rubbing on the branch as well as sliding through a pretty tight blakes hitch. With a fixed line all of your friction is in the swabish hitch. Basically in short using this type of system is easier physically than DRT. At least in my opinion and experiences. I also should note I am still using 75' of 11.4 mm predator rope. A few of the tree I sit in are 30' plus. (old growth forest). Hope this helps. Do your research ladies and gents and DONT GO CHEAP ON ROPE.
@jrbtc we all have our favorites thanks for taking the time to reply and keep the videos coming. I habe a good one for ya. How to stay warm in the saddle. Barley, any videos on youtube for late season gear. I'm going out tomorrow with a low of 20 and high of 37. It's gonna be a a cold one.
@neanderthalnonsense there's a reason our body shivers when we are cold: muscle contractions burn calories and generate heat. We don't actually need to move to engage our muscles, and it's important to keep doing so, even before we're feeling cold.
Trevor, I appreciate the comment. That's exactly my goal. I am never going to know exactly who or how many did NOT break a leg falling out of a tree cuz I helped them. And so I have to motivate myself with your support. All I ask in return is that y'all pass it on. If it's information with intrinsic value, word of mouth and the web will ensure it's not kept a secret. Cheers.
I use a similar system. I tie on my hitch at the tree just to keep it neat and tight. I use a swabish hitch and garda hitch with a footloop for acent (backup is attached to garda). For decent I use a figure 8 with the same swabish hitch as a backup. Very little metal. I dont like metal clinking. I use a loop that i whipped onto the free end and I use a figure 8 loop at the anchor. I use a keychain carabiner and short paracord prussik right behind the loop. This works quite well. Thanks for the videos.
John would you recommend a climbing ring tied into the 523 ascender as a handle like you have shown in previous videos? Or do you feel the extra bulk of the ring would cause issues going through the scotts lock bowline?
That's a good question. In general, i prefer a carabiner handle over a ring only because its easier to grip a carabiner. When my hands were either hot and sweaty or cold and weak, they can slip off a round smooth ring. However, in the situation you describe, it would be better than no handle and if ya use a small ring, i don't see it impeding the passage through the ring.
Paul, it's a perfect question. For this specific system, one that the climber doesn't wanna tie anything at the tree, the JRBAH has an advantage over Longhorn Agile because of it's smaller profile which will more easily pass though the crotch and the loop. The next video will show how we can rig and retrieve more easily without a JRBAH on the line with the cost of needing to tie a LA hitch. For me personally, I accept the responsibility to tie the LA, and all of that will be stated. I want to present a logical set of viable options in the right order.
I tried DSRT, and I liked it ok, but I find that I prefer SRT. This is basically the exact setup I’ve been using except instead of the locked Scott’s bowline I use an alpine butterfly for my canopy anchor loop and a longhorn agile for my hitch. If I need to hitch climb I just untie the alpine butterfly and tie maverick hitches (or sometimes I’ll use the moose hitch and rig both ends for the JRB cinch, it seems to be easier to advance with the pole for me) and climb. Absolutely love the system John, thanks for all the incredible info you put out here for free.
@seabeebillm Sounds like you have a nice Toolbox and know how to use em. I would like to know what why DSRT is less appealing than SRT. Because for me, I love that I don't need to set an anchor and that the friction hitches are only holding half my weight so it's very overdesigned. Have you tried DSRT with the Longhorn Agile and a single shove with one hand instead of a double show with both hands?
@@jrbtc hey John, thanks for the quick response…yeah, not sure I can really nail down why SRT seems to work better for me…I’m a big guy (6’2” and I’m walking around at about 240) so that might have something to do with it. I didn’t really have an issue with the shove, SRT just feels much easier and more fluid and (so far) I don’t mind setting the canopy anchor. I definitely did have more issues with the double ropes and the Munter hitch…I use the full super Munter and it got sketchy a few times with the 2 ropes, issues with twisting. Sorry, that’s not a great answer to your question…it’s definitely not an issue with the method, I think it just boils down to how the climb “feels” to me. Anyways, thanks again, this is so much better and safer (and funner) than how I’ve climbed the last couple of seasons.
I've climbed the last 2 seasons using DRT. This year I made the switch to my below commented system. I should note that there is a significant reduction in friction when ascending. With DRT you have the friction of the rope rubbing on the branch as well as sliding through a pretty tight blakes hitch. With a fixed line all of your friction is in the swabish hitch. Basically in short using this type of system is easier physically than DRT. At least in my opinion and experiences. I also should note I am still using 75' of 11.4 mm predator rope. A few of the tree I sit in are 30' plus. (old growth forest). Hope this helps. Do your research ladies and gents and DONT GO CHEAP ON ROPE.
Good input. I agree. I prefer DSRT over SRT though. No need to set an anchor and works with 8mm rope.
@jrbtc we all have our favorites thanks for taking the time to reply and keep the videos coming. I habe a good one for ya. How to stay warm in the saddle. Barley, any videos on youtube for late season gear. I'm going out tomorrow with a low of 20 and high of 37. It's gonna be a a cold one.
@neanderthalnonsense there's a reason our body shivers when we are cold: muscle contractions burn calories and generate heat. We don't actually need to move to engage our muscles, and it's important to keep doing so, even before we're feeling cold.
I've been following your channel for about a year now. The ongoing innovations you present are safe, efficient and elegant. Thanks.
Trevor, I appreciate the comment. That's exactly my goal. I am never going to know exactly who or how many did NOT break a leg falling out of a tree cuz I helped them. And so I have to motivate myself with your support. All I ask in return is that y'all pass it on. If it's information with intrinsic value, word of mouth and the web will ensure it's not kept a secret. Cheers.
I use a similar system. I tie on my hitch at the tree just to keep it neat and tight. I use a swabish hitch and garda hitch with a footloop for acent (backup is attached to garda). For decent I use a figure 8 with the same swabish hitch as a backup. Very little metal. I dont like metal clinking. I use a loop that i whipped onto the free end and I use a figure 8 loop at the anchor. I use a keychain carabiner and short paracord prussik right behind the loop. This works quite well. Thanks for the videos.
I had a similar rope setup like that from Mike Isbell who now runs Backwoods Mobile Gear.
Thanks Jason. It's a nice rope!
Great stuff!
Thanks. There's a ton more to come. I just need time and a camera operator!
U da Man...
John would you recommend a climbing ring tied into the 523 ascender as a handle like you have shown in previous videos? Or do you feel the extra bulk of the ring would cause issues going through the scotts lock bowline?
That's a good question. In general, i prefer a carabiner handle over a ring only because its easier to grip a carabiner. When my hands were either hot and sweaty or cold and weak, they can slip off a round smooth ring. However, in the situation you describe, it would be better than no handle and if ya use a small ring, i don't see it impeding the passage through the ring.
Is that the friction hitch you recommend for this technique?
Why not the agile friction hitch?
Paul, it's a perfect question. For this specific system, one that the climber doesn't wanna tie anything at the tree, the JRBAH has an advantage over Longhorn Agile because of it's smaller profile which will more easily pass though the crotch and the loop. The next video will show how we can rig and retrieve more easily without a JRBAH on the line with the cost of needing to tie a LA hitch. For me personally, I accept the responsibility to tie the LA, and all of that will be stated. I want to present a logical set of viable options in the right order.
@@jrbtc awesome.
i laughed when you said that the munter was your most popular video, because i know I'm responsible for alot of those views.
Happy it helped ya!!!