Thank you good Sir. The AC compressor clutch in my wife's vehicle decided to no longer engage on (ironically) the hottest day of the year thus far. I watched videos on jumping the connections in the fuse box which looked too risky for me. Diagnosing the state of the relay is the proper way to go. My relay proved to be in an open state. I drove to my local Subaru dealer this morning and purchased a new relay for $8. Got home, popped it in, started the car, and voila! AC is working again. Thanks again.
Was able to check all my relays . I have a 12 volt power controller that I used for voltage then used my meter. Great video. All my relays work. Thank you so much for this wonderful video
If you have a Toyota consider keeping a spare A/C relay in your car, it can save time and aggravation when your A/C suddenly fails in hot weather. It doesn't always fix Toyota A/C but it is a good shot when it abruptly fails.
Thankyou very much Sir..I have the same problem with my Honda jazz..So I am looking where is the relay ...Can I try the same process like you.Merci..From France..
I would rather buy the tool you hook up to the negative battery terminal ? And it has slots to insert the relay and it will tell you if it's good or bad .
Power Probe can be use here? At least you dont have to drag a 12 volt lead battery( that motion, removing the battery from an ackward deep angle is responsible for many a mechanics' damaged back discs ). But i am glad for test procedure.
question? I used a test light on the ports #86 for the starter relay. I used the clip on the positive terminal to see if #86 lights up and it did. it shouldn't light up correct???
my day time running lights strobe on and off/ left and right like an ambulance. I installed 4 LED lights and no problem for over a year. Also installed anti flicker units yesterday and it doesn't change. I even pulled the fuse to the DTR lights.. no change..but Something changed in a years time but I don't know. What's my the problem here? Headlights work normally when turned on ..hi and low beam. I looked for an answer/ similar problem on line and didn't find anything.
Got a 2004 Toyota Corolla doing an engine overhaul, engine is almost ready to go back in but then I also had hot air las time car ran, so i wen off without limit and bought all AC tools and parts required to do a complete overhaul which it should be a little bit less expensive than a $1700.00 shops charge for doing this kind of work; a mechanic suggested to me before I started taking the system apart that take it to a pro and get a diagnostic but then there it goes trust; there is a reason why I am doing this painfully slow overhaul, then i came upon this video; well i think I may have found the issue in my case; my relay has continuity between the silver leads, one is marked on top with a black dot, I am assuming meaning negative? in any case polarity should not affect continuity, but when I test the brass leads after applying power from the battery there is only 0.1 and 0.3 ohms reading; using a Fluke 107 meter which is the one I use for work (Electro-mechanical field engineering, similar to mechanic without so much grease and grime) so then I tested the compressor and clutch engages. Car engine is off the bay still but AC components are sealed, I have only disconnected the power steering pump and was thinking to get the engine back in with all the parts attached and serpentine belt as well, as it turns out, seems the culprit is that relay (system reads 65PSI in low port with 100F outside temp, did not hook the hi port) so it may be low on freon as well but with the compressor engaging i do not think i will recover the freon and disconnected it, unless someone would suggest to do a maintenance of the system given having the parts and tools to do so, my idea came as I thought it would be easier to work on the AC components with the engine off the bay than with the engine in but as it turns out there is really not much difference; mind you I still have to see if the car will crank and start once i drop the engine back in; i worked on this car taking my sweetest time over the course of 3 years, everything in the engine bay major have been replaced or re-done; the original issue was failed gasket due to overheating because neglecting oil and coolant, twice!! the first time we went with a "mechanic" only to happen a second time in less than 2 years (it was not because of me the issues, but I was blamed all the same!) so here I am trying to complete this car; this video helped a lot. Thanks for it. I subscribed!
Hi sir..i owned honda civic 1996..my car A/C clutch sometimes engage sometimes not when in stop situation.(moving).It was suddenly happens.. clutch clicking.tqvm
Great Question. Best way to find your positive is unplug the relay: insert a 12v test light on one of the open slots of the relay plug. Whichever the light comes on that indicates the hot 🔥side then correspond that with the relay
VERY GOOD DEMO.Thank you.But it is ok using replacement relay with no markings just same pin orientation??My original but defective has its part number and cant find with the same PN although have same pin, are those safe to use? thank you very much
Well all I can say is dont try this at home. ElectroBoom ua-cam.com/video/ylGoHrVKGI0/v-deo.html He is an expert. But check out his other informative videos.
Hey: Does anyone have an idea why my axillaries are not working? I recharged a recently new battery (96w)over night and placed it back in the van(Peugeot Partner DW8 2004), but now my horn/Digi clock/courtesy light/indicators/high beam and wash/wipers don't work! When I switch on my ignition my side lights come on and when I switch the engine on my main beam lights come on with the light switch off! So my lights are staying on all the time as long as the ignition switch is on and I cannot switch them off at the switch. When I switch the engine off and remove the keys the lights go off. The remote locking/alarm system also works. I have checked all the small fuses and none of them have blown. I haven't checked any relays as coming from this video yet. This is so strange and all I did was recharge my battery and put it back in again. Could it be an open circuit caused by possible power surge on the relay that controls them damaging it, or could it be something else? Any help is appreciated..
I'd try popping off the cover and burnish the contacts and would hope they were not burnt to bad :-) Maybe a tad of arm bending too. Getting a new one is always better though.
Good in principle but shouldnt be touching the probes with your fingers as a reading will be inaccurate. Very bad practice too as one day it may be high voltage being measured.
Its How 2 take out a relay instead!! stuck won't budge unless I pull out the whole housing , breaking what holds it all together instead of just the fuse, a econoline e250 2001 is a bitch!!!!
Putting your index fingers on each test probe metal tips will give you an incorrect resistance reading! reading. Doing this provides a parallel path through your body: Kirchoff and Ohms Laws, blah, blah, blah.
You should not touch the metal probes with your fingers when taking your readings. Touching the probes gives continuity and ohm readings to the probes through your body Try that with a/c power. U wont do it again.
![How To Test and Diagnose Relays and Wiring [4 & 5 Pin]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S-DwV0HLsE4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you good Sir. The AC compressor clutch in my wife's vehicle decided to no longer engage on (ironically) the hottest day of the year thus far. I watched videos on jumping the connections in the fuse box which looked too risky for me. Diagnosing the state of the relay is the proper way to go. My relay proved to be in an open state. I drove to my local Subaru dealer this morning and purchased a new relay for $8. Got home, popped it in, started the car, and voila! AC is working again. Thanks again.
I love your style of making videos. Simple, yet very thoroughly explained. Thank you very much for this!
Have always wanted to know how to properly test a relay, and now I do. Thank you sir for yet another simple yet informative how-to video!
My car was a problem,I tested all raley and got one of them not walking and replaced it,thank you so much I love you
Thank you so much for the detailed procedure. Was able to determine the relay was bad. $12 later and AC is working again.
Yes I liked your demo of how to test in the garage and also at the road side brilliant demo Sir. Great for the newbie.
Was able to check all my relays . I have a 12 volt power controller that I used for voltage then used my meter. Great video. All my relays work. Thank you so much for this wonderful video
Clear, visible, informative and to the point. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the information. This is the best information I have found on UA-cam.
Your videos are spot on and straight to the point.
If you have a Toyota consider keeping a spare A/C relay in your car, it can save time and aggravation when your A/C suddenly fails in hot weather. It doesn't always fix Toyota A/C but it is a good shot when it abruptly fails.
What a great idea ..
Love this video. Needed a simple explanation
Thanks for sharing this video , great information explained.
Good demonstration, thanks for sharing. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You likely also have an audible (beeping) continuity setting on your multimeter. That might be more suitable when just confirming open and closed.
Well and straight explanation,i like it,thank you very much.For good video tortural..
Works?, With out guys like you on the internet we wouldn't get anything Done to are car. Keep up the good videos 👍
Thank you for your informative and excellent demonstrations .
Cool thanks now I know how to I have one to test
Good video chap 👍
Thank you for sharing this very informative video.
Excellent explanation
Great advice again.
Thank You!!!!! And love the accent in your voice!!! Eastern European?
Love your videos bro!
Thankyou very much Sir..I have the same problem with my Honda jazz..So I am looking where is the relay ...Can I try the same process like you.Merci..From France..
Thanks !! Love the road fix.
Very helpful my friend
Informative but needed a closer look while connecting the relay with the battery, otherwise it remains a bit unclear.
Great video !!!
I would rather buy the tool you hook up to the negative battery terminal ? And it has slots to insert the relay and it will tell you if it's good or bad .
Sir how many thumbs you want from me thanks
Power Probe can be use here? At least you dont have to drag a 12 volt lead battery( that motion, removing the battery from an ackward deep angle is responsible for many a mechanics' damaged back discs ). But i am glad for test procedure.
Great stuff, thank you.
Just wanted to say thank you
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
question? I used a test light on the ports #86 for the starter relay. I used the clip on the positive terminal to see if #86 lights up and it did. it shouldn't light up correct???
Gracias amigo muy buena manera de enseñar, muy buenos videos
Excellent, thanks.
Thanks. Well explained!
Your channel is aimed more towards making Toyota mechanics better.some applies for DIY mechanics but not for professionals...correct?
my day time running lights strobe on and off/ left and right like an ambulance. I installed 4 LED lights and no problem for over a year. Also installed anti flicker units yesterday and it doesn't change. I even pulled the fuse to the DTR lights.. no change..but Something changed in a years time but I don't know. What's my the problem here? Headlights work normally when turned on ..hi and low beam. I looked for an answer/ similar problem on line and didn't find anything.
very good
Got a 2004 Toyota Corolla doing an engine overhaul, engine is almost ready to go back in but then I also had hot air las time car ran, so i wen off without limit and bought all AC tools and parts required to do a complete overhaul which it should be a little bit less expensive than a $1700.00 shops charge for doing this kind of work; a mechanic suggested to me before I started taking the system apart that take it to a pro and get a diagnostic but then there it goes trust; there is a reason why I am doing this painfully slow overhaul, then i came upon this video; well i think I may have found the issue in my case; my relay has continuity between the silver leads, one is marked on top with a black dot, I am assuming meaning negative? in any case polarity should not affect continuity, but when I test the brass leads after applying power from the battery there is only 0.1 and 0.3 ohms reading; using a Fluke 107 meter which is the one I use for work (Electro-mechanical field engineering, similar to mechanic without so much grease and grime) so then I tested the compressor and clutch engages. Car engine is off the bay still but AC components are sealed, I have only disconnected the power steering pump and was thinking to get the engine back in with all the parts attached and serpentine belt as well, as it turns out, seems the culprit is that relay (system reads 65PSI in low port with 100F outside temp, did not hook the hi port) so it may be low on freon as well but with the compressor engaging i do not think i will recover the freon and disconnected it, unless someone would suggest to do a maintenance of the system given having the parts and tools to do so, my idea came as I thought it would be easier to work on the AC components with the engine off the bay than with the engine in but as it turns out there is really not much difference; mind you I still have to see if the car will crank and start once i drop the engine back in; i worked on this car taking my sweetest time over the course of 3 years, everything in the engine bay major have been replaced or re-done; the original issue was failed gasket due to overheating because neglecting oil and coolant, twice!! the first time we went with a "mechanic" only to happen a second time in less than 2 years (it was not because of me the issues, but I was blamed all the same!) so here I am trying to complete this car; this video helped a lot. Thanks for it. I subscribed!
When i test my relays after I apply the 12v the multimeter reads 0 numbers jump around then reads 0 is the relay good?
Hi, I have haice Toyota van diesel 1994, which relay involved in glow plugs please? Thanks
Hi sir..i owned honda civic 1996..my car A/C clutch sometimes engage sometimes not when in stop situation.(moving).It was suddenly happens.. clutch clicking.tqvm
The A/C works but the clutch kicks in with the fan and the both turns off together is that how it works?
Thank you for advice.
How about relays with 5 pins?
well explanned thanks
Very good , thanks.
always wondered.... when testing a relay outside of a vehicle, how do you know which side is positive and negative? (or does it not mattter?)
Great Question. Best way to find your positive is unplug the relay: insert a 12v test light on one of the open slots of the relay plug. Whichever the light comes on that indicates the hot 🔥side then correspond that with the relay
VERY GOOD DEMO.Thank you.But it is ok using replacement relay with no markings just same pin orientation??My original but defective has its part number and cant find with the same PN although have same pin, are those safe to use? thank you very much
A/C button light blinks 3 times when the clutch relay goes out in my Toyota.
very helpful! Thank you!
thank you vick help
Thank u but, I wish video would b closer to the demonstration. Other wise awsome
Thanks Mr. Toyota Maintenance...…… I've got one of those damned multi-meters, but don't fully understand how to use them ! Thanks!
Well all I can say is dont try this at home.
ElectroBoom ua-cam.com/video/ylGoHrVKGI0/v-deo.html
He is an expert. But check out his other informative videos.
Wow, thank you
Hey: Does anyone have an idea why my axillaries are not working? I recharged a recently new battery (96w)over night and placed it back in the van(Peugeot Partner DW8 2004), but now my horn/Digi clock/courtesy light/indicators/high beam and wash/wipers don't work! When I switch on my ignition my side lights come on and when I switch the engine on my main beam lights come on with the light switch off! So my lights are staying on all the time as long as the ignition switch is on and I cannot switch them off at the switch. When I switch the engine off and remove the keys the lights go off. The remote locking/alarm system also works. I have checked all the small fuses and none of them have blown. I haven't checked any relays as coming from this video yet.
This is so strange and all I did was recharge my battery and put it back in again. Could it be an open circuit caused by possible power surge on the relay that controls them damaging it, or could it be something else? Any help is appreciated..
Super
Do you have email or other way to send you pictures of relay issue.
I'd try popping off the cover and burnish the contacts and would hope they were not burnt to bad :-) Maybe a tad of arm bending too. Getting a new one is always better though.
Thanks...
You should keep your fingers off the tips of your leads to get an accurate reading
Thank you for un-confusing me 🤓
👍thanks
Should not applied power when checking ohms, should use test light instead of multimeter.
Thank 👍
Love it
Good in principle but shouldnt be touching the probes with your fingers as a reading will be inaccurate. Very bad practice too as one day it may be high voltage being measured.
You should not touch meter lead probes with your bare hands as skin has resistance on its own.
Thankssss
Engine off while driving, it will not start immediately until you wait for about 15minutes
Camera is too far away during the second test.
So.
You could TEST IT,,by stopping over and BLOWING THE HORN,To TEST IT.???.
My relays goes up on numbers then it goes to 0000
Voyant. Precha uffage. Reste. Allumer
Hard to understand😢
Its How 2 take out a relay instead!! stuck won't budge unless I pull out the whole housing , breaking what holds it all together instead of just the fuse, a econoline e250 2001 is a bitch!!!!
,!
Bad lighting
Putting your index fingers on each test probe metal tips will give you an incorrect resistance reading! reading. Doing this provides a parallel path through your body: Kirchoff and Ohms Laws, blah, blah, blah.
My relays don’t look like yes didn’t help 🤷🏼♂️
You should not touch the metal probes with your fingers when taking your readings. Touching the probes gives continuity and ohm readings to the probes through your body Try that with a/c power. U wont do it again.