ZERO boost lag! This is awesome. You can literally spool it up when you want and have full boost before even launching it. Better yet, control the boost to create traction control.
when its ready to be sold as a dyi kit let me know. I am jealous of your machining skills I have none. keep up the good work. I was expecting the motor mount to have bearings for some reason. lol.
Thanks! Keep an eye on electrifiedboost.com - if I reach a point where I'm comfortable selling parts (doubt I'd ever do a complete kit - everyone's requirements are very different, and there's a liability aspect to consider), it'll happen there. Here's how I acquired my machining skills: I married extremely poorly, then became a single dad. When my daughter was too young to be left alone at night, I starting spending hours in the garage. First porting, then over the years machining. I can't recommend that technique though - the lawyers are far more expensive than a shop with good machine tools...
@@AlexLTDLX lol I had the single dad part down but I spent hours learning how to do computer programming at night instead. I am however a "back yard" mechanic and have assembled an engine from bare bones. I can get the turbo and rc plane motor and batteries/controller on my own. I just have no idea how to make those machined parts. the closest thing I ever got to machining anything was porting and polishing heads with a dremel and getting a harbor freight hone tool to put a new set of pistons in. I can assemble things like the best of them. lol. even have done some mild welding. tack welds and arc welds and some mig welding as well. mostly just to make custom exhaust and a light amount of fabrication work. I actually do want to learn to do some machine work at some point. but its just a hobby for me so who knows if I will learn everything I want to learn or not. I was just saying you already got one working. but I hear of all these newer cars coming with some electric turbos stock. so its only a matter of time before theres an affordable one. the demand is there. I actually have a procharger on my current set up. being able to take away the pulley would be nice. and the torqueamp ones dont make enough boost and restrict air for larger displacement and I got a v8 lt1 gen 2 and a 5.3 liter ls based truck engine I am just starting to work on now.
@@AlexLTDLX I got the trial by fire machinist apprentice in a jewelry factory doing tool and die work, YEEHAAW !! a year of that and they played the game.. laid off at 50 weeks no raise no paid vacation no benefits, calling 3 weeks later wanting me back same wage? "thanks for the education", CLICK.
I think you're probably right - we'll start seeing more and more of these in OEM applications. There's a much greater return in using electrical energy to power a turbo than to put it directly to the wheels. If nothing else, to help meet CAFE standards.
@@AlexLTDLX On the, "much greater return in using electrical energy to power a turbo than to put it directly to the wheels." I'd say that's pretty backwards. You're using a motor to drive a 60-80% efficient compressor, then just dumping that extra 20-40% of energy to atmosphere as heat. That's not even taking into account the motors efficiency (Probably in the 90% range), and the typical car alternator efficiency of ~60-70%. So all in all, this is a far less efficient way of driving a supercharger, and far, far less efficient thing to do with the electricity than just drive the wheels, as you're skipping a whole round of efficiency losses by just coupling the electric motor to the wheels.
I tried the drinking game and woke up naked in a random machine shop on the other side of the state with a pair of gage blocks in my hand. Thanks Alex!
This is phenomenal man. I just started twin charging my 03 Subaru 2.5 RS that has an EJ25 STi swap and I looked into the world of electric forced induction as an option for a few weeks but I ended up going with a centrifugal supercharger/TD04R turbo. Amazing machining skills and quite an engineering feat man!
@@barneymiller7894 I’m looking to make 400-425 AWHP. The engine is fully built but in my experience any more power than mid 400’s really kills the everyday drivability. I don’t mean I’ll use it to go get groceries but would still like the capability to do so
I worked on my grandpas farm with tractors and other heavy equipment and soon followed with wanting to make more power with great reliability. In the proccess Ive come to learn heat is almost always gonna be your enemy. Its also VERY expensive. Quite a bit of time has past and now I own a 2016 LML Duramax makin around pushing 32psi. Intake temps and EGT's are such a pain in the ass and there is no way of getting around them with the typical turbo set up. Ive looked into supercharging and everyone says it's not for diesels due to parasitic loss and what not. And really the only thing that comes up is Detroits 2stroke engine with blower style setups which are meh at best As soon as I heard about electric turbos I instantly knew how much of a game changer those could be and also knew the limitations. This whole setup you have here is some seriously clean and professional work
Thanks. I wanted to get the P2/VESC one going first, but hitting the issue with eRPM and looking at these parts just laying here, I decided to press ahead with this one so I can increase my chances of getting some kind of on-car testing done before the weather gets too warm here.
When you're using long cables, the back EMF that the ESC uses to position the rotor doesn't work well at startup. I found this out the hard way. You need a position sensor to get the motor spinning properly at low speed. Once it accelerates then it's fine.
isnt this an electric centrifugal supercharger? since its not exhaust driven but instead driven by the motor. for en "electric turbo" it would have to be more akin to an F1 MGU-H, where the electric motor powers the shaft of the turbo in the space between the hot and cold sides (though arguably, that could also be seen as an "all in one twin charger" as it becomes both motor and exhaust driven, like a twin charging setup)
That's what the rich kids are doing, that and the boat guys and large scale. But for 1/8th scale drags etc it's a little easier to have a pair and a spare with tppower and castle creations or hobbywing. Of course people to blow out castle escs and look for alternatives
How does it know what rpm you're at for the boost timming? If it's on all the time, I'd imagine at low rpm would be too much boost. Does the position sensor tie into the tach wire at the coil? So it can increase boost as the rpm climbs.
Maybe at some point down the road once we solves all the pitfalls and issues. Most likely "modules" - compressor/motor, ESC, battery packs. Keep an eye on www.electrifiedboost.com - that's most likely where I'll be selling from eventually.
That's a good question. The problem with using a lower RPM/higher torque motor is primarily weight and size go up. Like by a lot. This is about the most compact balance of RPM/power that's available to the masses. I'm sure eventually that'll change, but for now it is what it is. The other issue is very high speed gear/belt drives bring in some small losses but also present additional engineering challenges - like heat build up and lubrication. Look at it in terms of watts (heat) - 5% losses on a 40hp drive is about 1,500 watts of heat you need to get rid of.
Hi been watching your video, im just wondering what is the most powerful electric motor you ever put into your turbo, im planning to build an electric surfboard, thank you
Good job my brother. I sold my turbo kit design and manufacturing business back in 06-07...Got married, started family opened a new business etc etc. I got into hardcore RC around that time and first time I saw the power the BLDC motors were capable of, this idea came to mind. I have been waiting for someone to catch on and do it! When audi talked about their electric turbo I waited and was like "Maybe....mayyyybe? NO! So close!" lol In the progress of designing in my head I ended up at a supercharger head as well. LOL It just makes sense. Best of luck, I hope it works out. Just a thought for quick charge ups, discharges etc. Go supercaps instead of lipo or whatever. Yea, more expensive but the charge/discharge rate can't be beat. There is actually a supercapacitor "battery" made for the car audio industry it would be a nice easy "premade" unit if you don't feel like going through the hassle.
Thanks. It already did work out: ua-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/v-deo.html This is our attempt for big power. Supercaps (I have a giant supercap setup that I tested for other things - it's designed to start semis and trains - I did a self discharge video on it) would actually be a poor choice because the voltage discharge curve is linear and the power density is really low. I'm now using Lishen 18ah LTO cells - also used in high power car audio - those things are beasts. I tried stick welding (also a video) with them and couldn't keep the amperage low enough. Would be great for stick welding 1/2" steel with 5/32" electrodes, though!
@@AlexLTDLX Nice nice! Thanks for the reply. Seeing your results honestly, are right about what I thought would happen! Right down to the current draw, airflow, hp increase...all of it! Wow, I feel vindicated from all the eye rolls I got as I said "no no, this is different - we're not talking 1.2kw here, more like 15-20Kw!." and finally just stopped talking to people about it. Regarding the last message...The LTO's are nasty, no doubt about it. I said supercaps, but I meant ultracaps...Tecate Group UltraCaps to be specific - sorry. www.tecategroup.com They've got some great calculators on their site as well. They show a bit more promise...BUT, to be 100% upfront I didn't go *too* far into the maths so take it with a grain of salt. A friend of mine is a lead engineer over at Honeywell, so I spent way too much time diddling around with turbo compressors and maps before I thought "duh, just use a centrifugal charger head unit." LOL Then, "life" took over and everything went on the back burner. My kids are finally older now and I recently bought a turbocharged daily driver...alllll the juices started flowing again! lol Definitely see you over on the eboost forums. Best, Jay
If you could replace those 2 plates with 1 plate of approximately equal mass to a single plate, your electric motor would have to move that much less "extra" weight. I know spool-up time and max rpm of the compressor are already awesome, but you'd draw less from your bank of batteries. Do you have to replace those often?
Nice machine work! If you need any dynamic balancing, I make motors and rotors for a living. Would you have room for a larger diameter motor? Was the motor speed selected for the blower speed?
That's an offer I might take you up on in the future. We could go larger diameter, but we need a lot of rpm. Feel free to send me an email in the contact section of my channel's main page.
Awesome project! What I don't understand: don't the rpm limits of a radial impeller itself and the motor fit together or does the motor run out of torque at these high speeds? I was wondering if I could recycle old turbochargers by bolting a kW motor to the shaft. I have some leftover stuff but I'd have to find a solution for the hydraulic bearing, like a small oil circuit driven by an electric pump since there's no issue with heat on the shaft
Basically, right now it's a balance between available motors, torque and impeller rpm. Many people have suggested to gear up a lower rpm motor. The biggest issue is size - a 30kW, 10,000 rpm motor is a lot bigger than a 30kW, 50,000 rpm motor. Simply because the slower motor makes 5 times the torque. And the main reasons why I went with a supercharger instead of a turbo is the exducer and inducer sizes are more favorable for this kind of thing and the bearing issues are already sorted out. I use Isoflex nbu-15 grease from Kluber to lube the bearings. The same lube some positive displacement blowers use in their "permanently lubed" rotor bearings. It is expensive though - a 50ml tube is around $50.
I have a question why do you remove the gear train is it too much stain on the motor for startup and if so can't you set the motor to sit in a idle or is it still to much strain I've always been very interested in electric superchargers
It's a balance of motor size/rpm/torque. You could go with a lower RPM motor (that would be easier to control), but the motor would require more torque, and more torque = more size and weight.
This is interesting to watch. I’ll be considering boost after I do a engine swap for more displacement. But I’m working with half the cylinders and a street build. I’ve been thinking about re-purposing a used supercharger. But your electric turbo has promise too
I've built many custom supercharger setups over the years; but cost-wise, including installation, I think the P2/VESC unit is the most bang for the buck. Thanks for watching!
Hey, look into the Aisin AMR500. It’s a small supercharger, costing usually $200 and readily available. It can support up to 400hp(supposedly) but is great for smaller motors. How big is your motor? Believe it or not, the engine doesn’t dictate the max power of a turbo or supercharger, it’s all in how much it can flow. You should be able to calculate flow rates, if so you can make a “guesstimate” of roughly 10hp per lb of air per hour. So if a turbo/SC can support 50lb/hr, it CAN make 500hp(before efficiency losses)
We'll find out soon enough - installing it as I type. But the first version, with less than half the power, already made about 650hp in our drag testing: ua-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/v-deo.html
How freak’n cool is this! Can’t believe I’ve never come across your channel before. Definitely gonna be watching the progress on this project. Watched some older videos and clearly the naysayers can eat crow because that is a legit electric supercharger right there! Good stuff!
over here its eazier to find a used truck turbo then it is to find a vortech compressor , wonder if you can use the compressor wheel and housing and make youre own backing plate for the housing with bearing and axle from the compressorwheel to the motor
Sure you could. Just try to find a turbo with a fairly large exducer (and small inducer). I did a video on compressor maps in the "electric turbo" playlist on my channel. As long as it meets the requirements (keep in mind, on the high power motor side you're really not going to find much that can go over 50,000 rpm - so that's one practical limitation). I'm also working on a cheaper, easier to build variant that should support about 650hp - check out my videos from a month or two ago. I set that aside because I need to try a different motor, so I've decided to turn my attentions to this thing. But I'll get back on that one soon enough.
Because power is torque x rpm. And the more torque a motor produces for a given power, the larger the motor has to be. A similar power motor to the one I'm using here that spins at only 8,000 rpm would easily weigh at least 50-80 lbs and be a lot bigger.
Was wondering the reasons why you stopped using the Speedmaster P2. Was it the inability to connect the electric motor directly to the belt drive shaft, or that the new one was just higher quality and more capable, even though it had all the gear drive mechanism that you had to remove. Thanks for sharing all this info!
I actually haven't stopped using it - I've just been to busy to turn my attentions to it. I will, as soon as possible - I do feel it's a more cost-effective solution than the Sledgehammer. Building this barndominium 1,600 miles away is really sucking up a lot of my time, but when it's done - hopefully done enough to move into by next spring/early summer - I'll have a lot more time and space to devote to this stuff. Frankly, I can't wait. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@AlexLTDLX I am just finishing up a barndominium just north of The Woodlands in Houston, Texas. It has 1500 ft2 living space and 6000 ft2 of shop space that is tall enough inside to double that with a second story if ever needed. I am a retired engineer and think I did some neat things in building it. If you happen to make it to Houston, I would be glad to give you a tour in hopes it gives you some ideas. All the best to your building project!
My f150 runs on CNG. Compressed natural gas. The tank sits at 3,600psi. It’s 120 octane rating. Wonder what the possibilities are to have a second ‘air’ tank that shoves the mixture into the motor. Forced air with no input besides the 3,600 psi in the tanks. The HP would be spent putting the air into the tank. Something to consider.
How would someone tune their engine for this? Although I’d assume you can figure a way to use a pressure sensor and some electrical components to keep your boost at a specific pressure no patter the rpm. You’d have to have it automatically adjust the motor speed accordingly with either throttle position or relative to intake pressure/boost
In my case it's on full speed once the throttle is over 80% and the engine is over 3,000 rpm; since the car makes 500 hp N/A, I'm going for max power. But you could easily stage it. I'm working on a "universal" controller based on a differential MAP sensor.
Why did you choose a supercharger as your base for this? I was thinking of making something like this but I was planning to use a turbo with a blown exhaust housing. Just what you had on hand? Or is there something I'm not thinking...?
Good question - turbos generally require higher impeller speeds than centrifugal superchargers. Given the hp level I was looking for (editing the second dyno video right now - and this thing is definitely capable of 800 flywheel hp on a good weather day), and the available brushless motors/ESCs, this seemed like a logical choice. If you're looking for less power, there are smaller brushless motors that can turn 75,000 rpm; but definitely check out the P2 versions on my channel - they make make less power, but are a lot cheaper and are more "tunable" given the belt drive and available pulley ratios. You could optimize those for a particular engine much easier.
doesn't need much torque, tape only compresses so much. the support tubes on the all thread shouldn't be issue either, diameter gives some bicycle frame type rigidity short as they are, motor can't twist on its mount plate. loctite and a little torque, still keep a watch on it all anyway but I doubt it'll budge any.
I like the fact you are trying :) , cause making power to run things in a vehicle is relatively easy but finding something to then power a device efficiently to do a job is the hard thing. The advantage to all this in this day and once you have a working prototype its easy to have someone make it and or upgrade it to suit production. Keep it up and thanks
Thanks. We already have a working prototype: ua-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/v-deo.html Now I'm working on two different models - this one for more power (first working prototype made about 650 hp; the goals for the sledgehammer is about 850 hp); the goal for the other belt-driven unit is compactness, cost-effectiveness and ease of construction.
@@AlexLTDLX thrust.. put it on a bathroom scale pointed straight up, subtract unit weight from powered weight. simple static thrust. simple+solid wood cradle to set it in, the "and tattooed" type.
Lol. That would be very difficult to do, but a good idea. The P2 version was lifting over 50 lbs blowing down. And then there's the challenge of doing all that while fearing an explosion, fire, etc...
Thx a lot ;)) it would bring us a step closer to compact hose or wirebound jetpack funflyers like 4 or more units paralel =200kw would do the job ;)) who wants to build/ try that too gives a thumb up ;D
@@AlexLTDLX hi i did some mesurements with a brushles dyson turbineunit i let it blow with the ideal cone nozzle directly on the plate of my scale and come down to 1.3kw per kg force what should be about the same as thrust. 338watts 260g force on plate ...so for my 70kg we balance in air with 91Kw ;))
I got a thick wall 1835 that's got four individual throttle bodies for the electronic fuel injection I would love to add this setup all I got to do is put some hats on the throttle bodies and have someone professionally tune the computer
I believe it's an LMT 30100 motor. I don't remember the kV off the top of my head, but it's good for 50,000 rpm and 63 volts. Everything is currently packed up for my move.
Please don't make me add it up. It'll make me cry. But so far, I'm quite sure I'm well over 5 figures getting to this point. After all, I've bought 5 motors, blew up 4 ESCs, bought about $2,000 worth of batteries, even well over $1,000 worth of cables and connectors, a billet impeller, a volute, another entire supercharger, etc. It's a lot. But it's all in the name of development; finding and overcoming the pitfalls.
@@AlexLTDLX i know how you feel, I started to make my own pcp airguns as they are expensive Now I have cnc machining center, two cnc lathes and a garage full of other tools. It got out of hands really fast. But now I'm owning one of the most powerful airguns in the world.
I have a REALLY stupid question, but forgive me because I’m an engineer….but….why did you remove the gearing? Couldn’t you have pushed far more rpm (and as a result, higher boost) at the impeller with the gearing?
That's a good question. And there's a good reason - high speed, lower torque motors are generally lighter, cheaper and smaller. And horsepower (like watts) is an actual measure of work. You could have a 50,000 rpm motor that fits in the palm of your hand and makes 53 hp - which happens to describe the motor I'm using. A low speed, 53 hp electric motor that only spins to 10,000 rpm would weigh at least 80 lbs and be at least 5 times bigger - yet both are capable of doing the same work. Actually, the direct drive unit (i.e. 50,000 rpm) is more efficient because there are no gearing losses and the magnet to stator gap is smaller. Now if you're wondering why I don't run gearing on the motor I've got to get more rpm, it's because as you go up in rpm, you lose torque - and we're already power limited.
As the owner of a polished aluminum airplane (which seemed like a good idea at a time), I feel your pain about polished aluminum. When it looks good, it's amazing. The other 99.99999999% of the time, it's "Oh $%^#, a smudge!!!". I feel like I'm painting the golden gate bridge when it comes to polishing.
Interesting. You did take care to match the motor characteristics to the requirements of the compressor, didn’t you? I’m thinking the motor won’t be capable of spinning at the sort of speeds you’re going to need to get the compressor working correctly. Do you have the specifics posted anywhere?
Still happening - I've got a different motor (sensored 4 pole Castle Creations unit) that should alleviate the high eRPM and consistency issues. But I got tired of endless garage testing and wanted to switch over to something I can test on the car ASAP. That's this setup. I'll got back to the P2 Unit once we get some testing (dyno and dragstrip) done with this one. I might even compound the two.
@@AlexLTDLX compounding might be problematic, you have to remember with compounding that the primary has to support the total power airflow of the system AT the P/R that it runs at by itself. Now, if you made a smaller one out of like a 3582 compressor housing and wheel and used that as the secondary, compounding might be easier and could be the way to go for efficiency. If the P2 blower has say 70lb/min of flow at a P/R of 1.6 and you wanted to run a total boost of say 25psi, you could run the secondary at a p/r of like 1.7. You could get close to 700 wheel with an insane torque curve and high efficiency. However, you would need to start with an engine that would produce about 700 whp at 25 psi of boost. The other good thing about doing it with electric motors is that you have total control over the ramp in and total impeller speed. You could program it for total efficiency and power throughout the curve.
@@AlexLTDLX Actually, one thing you might consider is to run a 3582 turbo and then use the P2 to compound for top end power. It would work well on a smaller motor with less mods. It would be ideal on say a 4.6 2v. Something that makes about 250-280hp stock with a total goal of about 700 wheel. You'd get that quick spool from the small turbo and then the high end with the compounded e-S/C. You could just run the turbo for about 450 wheel for driving around and press the button at WOT for that extra kick...lol
LMT in Germany made this one. It wasn't cheap or easy to get - which is why I've developed an easier, cheaper unit that supports only slightly less power.
It's not the first one that works. There's a few commercial models, but you get what you pay for, they're a few grand for the kit. I think it was MCM that did a video on them a few years ago, the electric turbos that actually work... They worked great for smaller cars up to like 6cyl. For 8 they were a little too little air flowed, but they weren't sized for 8 either.
My nephew in law is Ukrainian. The first thing I did when the war started was to see if he needed anything. He didn’t need my help so I pray daily for Ukraine. What a hearty and determined people. For what little they have, they’re kicking Russian ASS. I don’t blame the Russian soldiers for this either. Their officers should know better, but they have been lied to, in much the same way as our Government has lied to us. You should know who I’m talking about. If not, do the research!
Lol - I had one as a kid that looked like a formula one car and had a toothed zip tie thing that you'd pull through to get the car going (and sparking)...
I also have a small lathe. That thing has more than paid for itself. It's an 8x12 Harbor Freight deal - not my first choice, but around where I live used, decent machine tools are pretty much non existent. With some modifications, it does pretty well. If and or when I get more space, a bigger mill is my first priority.
@@AlexLTDLX dang I think you are on to something Very big I had the same thought been in rc's for years. Want to run alot of thing off motors like that.
Well I never would have guessed Ukrainian but there you go. Looks like you took a lot of thought into supporting the motor cannot wait to see what the future holds can't wait for track time of course.
Yeah - we look like normal people, lol. The motor support was really the most obvious choice requiring the least modification to the existing setup. I was just not looking forward to spending the time making it. The standoffs were easy; that silly bracket took a lot of layout time and slow going on the machine work. Running the boring head even slowly made the whole machine shake.
@@AlexLTDLX haha I should clarify that I was referring to a few videos back when you were asking us to take a guess of what other language you spoke based on what little accent you have I would have never guessed Ukrainian.
@@AlexLTDLX what's happening now is something else.. lots of information AND disinformation about what's really what. how I know it to be, may be offensive to who I may think is misinformed. leave it at that, and pray that all the evil is there stopped. same as I pray all the evil HERE is stopped.
ZERO boost lag! This is awesome. You can literally spool it up when you want and have full boost before even launching it. Better yet, control the boost to create traction control.
when its ready to be sold as a dyi kit let me know. I am jealous of your machining skills I have none. keep up the good work. I was expecting the motor mount to have bearings for some reason. lol.
Thanks! Keep an eye on electrifiedboost.com - if I reach a point where I'm comfortable selling parts (doubt I'd ever do a complete kit - everyone's requirements are very different, and there's a liability aspect to consider), it'll happen there. Here's how I acquired my machining skills: I married extremely poorly, then became a single dad. When my daughter was too young to be left alone at night, I starting spending hours in the garage. First porting, then over the years machining. I can't recommend that technique though - the lawyers are far more expensive than a shop with good machine tools...
@@AlexLTDLX lol I had the single dad part down but I spent hours learning how to do computer programming at night instead. I am however a "back yard" mechanic and have assembled an engine from bare bones. I can get the turbo and rc plane motor and batteries/controller on my own. I just have no idea how to make those machined parts. the closest thing I ever got to machining anything was porting and polishing heads with a dremel and getting a harbor freight hone tool to put a new set of pistons in. I can assemble things like the best of them. lol. even have done some mild welding. tack welds and arc welds and some mig welding as well. mostly just to make custom exhaust and a light amount of fabrication work. I actually do want to learn to do some machine work at some point. but its just a hobby for me so who knows if I will learn everything I want to learn or not. I was just saying you already got one working. but I hear of all these newer cars coming with some electric turbos stock. so its only a matter of time before theres an affordable one. the demand is there. I actually have a procharger on my current set up. being able to take away the pulley would be nice. and the torqueamp ones dont make enough boost and restrict air for larger displacement and I got a v8 lt1 gen 2 and a 5.3 liter ls based truck engine I am just starting to work on now.
@@AlexLTDLX I got the trial by fire machinist apprentice in a jewelry factory doing tool and die work, YEEHAAW !! a year of that and they played the game.. laid off at 50 weeks no raise no paid vacation no benefits, calling 3 weeks later wanting me back same wage? "thanks for the education",
CLICK.
I think you're probably right - we'll start seeing more and more of these in OEM applications. There's a much greater return in using electrical energy to power a turbo than to put it directly to the wheels. If nothing else, to help meet CAFE standards.
@@AlexLTDLX On the, "much greater return in using electrical energy to power a turbo than to put it directly to the wheels." I'd say that's pretty backwards. You're using a motor to drive a 60-80% efficient compressor, then just dumping that extra 20-40% of energy to atmosphere as heat. That's not even taking into account the motors efficiency (Probably in the 90% range), and the typical car alternator efficiency of ~60-70%. So all in all, this is a far less efficient way of driving a supercharger, and far, far less efficient thing to do with the electricity than just drive the wheels, as you're skipping a whole round of efficiency losses by just coupling the electric motor to the wheels.
I tried the drinking game and woke up naked in a random machine shop on the other side of the state with a pair of gage blocks in my hand. Thanks Alex!
lol
This is phenomenal man. I just started twin charging my 03 Subaru 2.5 RS that has an EJ25 STi swap and I looked into the world of electric forced induction as an option for a few weeks but I ended up going with a centrifugal supercharger/TD04R turbo. Amazing machining skills and quite an engineering feat man!
What's your power goal on that setup? I don't have any experience with twin charging but ive helped fab a couple of compound turbo setups
Thank you.
@@barneymiller7894 I’m looking to make 400-425 AWHP. The engine is fully built but in my experience any more power than mid 400’s really kills the everyday drivability. I don’t mean I’ll use it to go get groceries but would still like the capability to do so
@@AlexLTDLX is there a link to the motor you used for your build?
@@AlexLTDLX Thanks man ! Greetings from the south of Ukraine !
I worked on my grandpas farm with tractors and other heavy equipment and soon followed with wanting to make more power with great reliability. In the proccess Ive come to learn heat is almost always gonna be your enemy. Its also VERY expensive.
Quite a bit of time has past and now I own a 2016 LML Duramax makin around pushing 32psi. Intake temps and EGT's are such a pain in the ass and there is no way of getting around them with the typical turbo set up. Ive looked into supercharging and everyone says it's not for diesels due to parasitic loss and what not. And really the only thing that comes up is Detroits 2stroke engine with blower style setups which are meh at best
As soon as I heard about electric turbos I instantly knew how much of a game changer those could be and also knew the limitations. This whole setup you have here is some seriously clean and professional work
A turbo that has almost as much power as my car engine
Love the update, been waiting for this since the unboxing of the motor.
Thanks. I wanted to get the P2/VESC one going first, but hitting the issue with eRPM and looking at these parts just laying here, I decided to press ahead with this one so I can increase my chances of getting some kind of on-car testing done before the weather gets too warm here.
do you know the difference between turbo charging and super charging normally asperated internal combustion engine?
4:28 I don't understand what the position sensor help you to do?
When you're using long cables, the back EMF that the ESC uses to position the rotor doesn't work well at startup. I found this out the hard way. You need a position sensor to get the motor spinning properly at low speed. Once it accelerates then it's fine.
@@AlexLTDLX ok will you make a video showing the full installation and how it work?
Already did: ua-cam.com/video/PjOJU02FIGw/v-deo.html
Amazingly gifted. This is who should have a million viewers
Thank you for the kind words.
Awsome where can I buy the parts to turn my old turbo to new electric one
Check out our forum www.electrifiedboost.com
What wonderful craftsmanship!
Not to mention that we all want a brushless turbo.... I do! Thanks, and can't wait to see the future.. now.
isnt this an electric centrifugal supercharger? since its not exhaust driven but instead driven by the motor. for en "electric turbo" it would have to be more akin to an F1 MGU-H, where the electric motor powers the shaft of the turbo in the space between the hot and cold sides (though arguably, that could also be seen as an "all in one twin charger" as it becomes both motor and exhaust driven, like a twin charging setup)
Yes, but more people search for "electric turbo" than "electric supercharger."
@@AlexLTDLX haha, fair enough. fun build, interesting to see it done on a scale that can actually be used instead of just as a proof of concept.
This video was... precisely what I was wanting to see.
My favorite so far!
All the cool kids in the rc world use LMT and MGM. I'm excited to see your results.
Thanks. Working on the wiring now.
That's what the rich kids are doing, that and the boat guys and large scale. But for 1/8th scale drags etc it's a little easier to have a pair and a spare with tppower and castle creations or hobbywing. Of course people to blow out castle escs and look for alternatives
This old Tony is the bomb
Nice project. Do you have a circuit to interface with the gas pedal?
Yes, but it's triggered by the car's EFI computer. This is a look at the control box: ua-cam.com/video/J7glXHY3AbI/v-deo.html
How does it know what rpm you're at for the boost timming? If it's on all the time, I'd imagine at low rpm would be too much boost. Does the position sensor tie into the tach wire at the coil? So it can increase boost as the rpm climbs.
It's controlled by the car's EFI computer. Currently, I have it set to trigger above 3,000 rpm and 80% throttle.
That thing is awesome. Is the position sensor tied into the computer and at what spot?
This is is cool! Thank you for your dedication, and sharing of your work and experience in this project!
Thanks for watching, taking the time to comment and the kind words!
@@AlexLTDLX does this eliminate lag? Allows exhaust to flow freely? What was your intention?
Got here from watching an intake video. This is awesome can't wait to see what this electric supercharger does.
Please tell me you will be providing these as a kit maybe I wanna be different with my build and this would be perfect
Maybe at some point down the road once we solves all the pitfalls and issues. Most likely "modules" - compressor/motor, ESC, battery packs. Keep an eye on www.electrifiedboost.com - that's most likely where I'll be selling from eventually.
Would you not get better performance with the gears or is there a factor I'm not thinking of
That's a good question. The problem with using a lower RPM/higher torque motor is primarily weight and size go up. Like by a lot. This is about the most compact balance of RPM/power that's available to the masses. I'm sure eventually that'll change, but for now it is what it is. The other issue is very high speed gear/belt drives bring in some small losses but also present additional engineering challenges - like heat build up and lubrication. Look at it in terms of watts (heat) - 5% losses on a 40hp drive is about 1,500 watts of heat you need to get rid of.
@@AlexLTDLX il take your word on it I'm not that electronically savvy
If it's not driven by exhaust gasses it's a supercharger.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsQheFyxAWT88?feature=share
Hi been watching your video, im just wondering what is the most powerful electric motor you ever put into your turbo, im planning to build an electric surfboard, thank you
The one in the video - we've seen well over 30,000 watts out of it.
Good job my brother. I sold my turbo kit design and manufacturing business back in 06-07...Got married, started family opened a new business etc etc. I got into hardcore RC around that time and first time I saw the power the BLDC motors were capable of, this idea came to mind. I have been waiting for someone to catch on and do it! When audi talked about their electric turbo I waited and was like "Maybe....mayyyybe? NO! So close!" lol In the progress of designing in my head I ended up at a supercharger head as well. LOL It just makes sense. Best of luck, I hope it works out. Just a thought for quick charge ups, discharges etc. Go supercaps instead of lipo or whatever. Yea, more expensive but the charge/discharge rate can't be beat. There is actually a supercapacitor "battery" made for the car audio industry it would be a nice easy "premade" unit if you don't feel like going through the hassle.
Thanks. It already did work out: ua-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/v-deo.html This is our attempt for big power. Supercaps (I have a giant supercap setup that I tested for other things - it's designed to start semis and trains - I did a self discharge video on it) would actually be a poor choice because the voltage discharge curve is linear and the power density is really low. I'm now using Lishen 18ah LTO cells - also used in high power car audio - those things are beasts. I tried stick welding (also a video) with them and couldn't keep the amperage low enough. Would be great for stick welding 1/2" steel with 5/32" electrodes, though!
@@AlexLTDLX Nice nice! Thanks for the reply. Seeing your results honestly, are right about what I thought would happen! Right down to the current draw, airflow, hp increase...all of it! Wow, I feel vindicated from all the eye rolls I got as I said "no no, this is different - we're not talking 1.2kw here, more like 15-20Kw!." and finally just stopped talking to people about it.
Regarding the last message...The LTO's are nasty, no doubt about it. I said supercaps, but I meant ultracaps...Tecate Group UltraCaps to be specific - sorry. www.tecategroup.com They've got some great calculators on their site as well. They show a bit more promise...BUT, to be 100% upfront I didn't go *too* far into the maths so take it with a grain of salt. A friend of mine is a lead engineer over at Honeywell, so I spent way too much time diddling around with turbo compressors and maps before I thought "duh, just use a centrifugal charger head unit." LOL Then, "life" took over and everything went on the back burner. My kids are finally older now and I recently bought a turbocharged daily driver...alllll the juices started flowing again! lol Definitely see you over on the eboost forums. Best, Jay
Please tell the name of electric engine.
PS: I found. It is LMT 30100 engine
If you could replace those 2 plates with 1 plate of approximately equal mass to a single plate, your electric motor would have to move that much less "extra" weight. I know spool-up time and max rpm of the compressor are already awesome, but you'd draw less from your bank of batteries. Do you have to replace those often?
The batteries should outlast me - they're LTO (lithium titanate oxide) cells. They're supposed to be good for at least 30,000 charge/discharge cycles.
Can't wait for the next video!
Thanks for the comment and the sub. I'm hopefully going to be testing (off the car) by this weekend at the latest.
Nice machine work! If you need any dynamic balancing, I make motors and rotors for a living. Would you have room for a larger diameter motor? Was the motor speed selected for the blower speed?
That's an offer I might take you up on in the future. We could go larger diameter, but we need a lot of rpm. Feel free to send me an email in the contact section of my channel's main page.
Awesome project! What I don't understand: don't the rpm limits of a radial impeller itself and the motor fit together or does the motor run out of torque at these high speeds? I was wondering if I could recycle old turbochargers by bolting a kW motor to the shaft. I have some leftover stuff but I'd have to find a solution for the hydraulic bearing, like a small oil circuit driven by an electric pump since there's no issue with heat on the shaft
Basically, right now it's a balance between available motors, torque and impeller rpm. Many people have suggested to gear up a lower rpm motor. The biggest issue is size - a 30kW, 10,000 rpm motor is a lot bigger than a 30kW, 50,000 rpm motor. Simply because the slower motor makes 5 times the torque. And the main reasons why I went with a supercharger instead of a turbo is the exducer and inducer sizes are more favorable for this kind of thing and the bearing issues are already sorted out. I use Isoflex nbu-15 grease from Kluber to lube the bearings. The same lube some positive displacement blowers use in their "permanently lubed" rotor bearings. It is expensive though - a 50ml tube is around $50.
Well now I'm hammered, I just woke up, now I'm gonna watch the video...again!
lol
I have a question why do you remove the gear train is it too much stain on the motor for startup and if so can't you set the motor to sit in a idle or is it still to much strain I've always been very interested in electric superchargers
It's a balance of motor size/rpm/torque. You could go with a lower RPM motor (that would be easier to control), but the motor would require more torque, and more torque = more size and weight.
I would love to do this for a 1000 rzr xp any advice?
Really looking foward to the test of this! Nice video!
I have been patiently waiting for this how did I miss the notification.....we must protect this man at all cost!!!!
lol.
I'm only 4 minutes in and feeling a buzz. A very precise buzz. Thank you kindly lol
lol
Most prep anyone has ever done for an april fools joke.
Kidding, it's really cool.
Very nice work on the machining and precision!
I had an idea couple years ago for an electric turbocharger But I wasn't able to figure out how to build it. How do I buy one of yours?
Keep an eye on our forum www.electrifiedboost.com There are still a good number of details to work out.
How much boost do you think it will make
On my car, with 500 hp naturally aspirated, I'm going to say in the ballpark of 10 psi at peak torque and about 8 psi at max hp.
This is interesting to watch. I’ll be considering boost after I do a engine swap for more displacement.
But I’m working with half the cylinders and a street build.
I’ve been thinking about re-purposing a used supercharger.
But your electric turbo has promise too
I've built many custom supercharger setups over the years; but cost-wise, including installation, I think the P2/VESC unit is the most bang for the buck. Thanks for watching!
@@AlexLTDLX I’ll have to scrape more of your content to find out what that is. 🤣
@@AlexLTDLX BTW, have you done a “boost school-math class” video on how to determine how much boost you can get out of a charger at x rpm?
Hey, look into the Aisin AMR500. It’s a small supercharger, costing usually $200 and readily available. It can support up to 400hp(supposedly) but is great for smaller motors. How big is your motor?
Believe it or not, the engine doesn’t dictate the max power of a turbo or supercharger, it’s all in how much it can flow. You should be able to calculate flow rates, if so you can make a “guesstimate” of roughly 10hp per lb of air per hour. So if a turbo/SC can support 50lb/hr, it CAN make 500hp(before efficiency losses)
@@AlexLTDLX hey, what exactly is the P2/VESC?
It's not about the most expensive tools ! It's about the quality of the parts you can make with the tools you have to work with !
It looks really nice I'm just wondering exactly is it going to work I would love to see it work
We'll find out soon enough - installing it as I type. But the first version, with less than half the power, already made about 650hp in our drag testing: ua-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/v-deo.html
Beautiful work ,thanks for sharing.
Thanks. And thanks for watching and commenting.
flat gorgeous, cant wait to see results!
How freak’n cool is this! Can’t believe I’ve never come across your channel before. Definitely gonna be watching the progress on this project. Watched some older videos and clearly the naysayers can eat crow because that is a legit electric supercharger right there! Good stuff!
Thanks - and thanks for watching the older videos, too. It's amazing how many people don't bother to watch the older videos.
I love you... I'm not gay . But will you marry me lol
over here its eazier to find a used truck turbo then it is to find a vortech compressor , wonder if you can use the compressor wheel and housing and make youre own backing plate for the housing with bearing and axle from the compressorwheel to the motor
Sure you could. Just try to find a turbo with a fairly large exducer (and small inducer). I did a video on compressor maps in the "electric turbo" playlist on my channel. As long as it meets the requirements (keep in mind, on the high power motor side you're really not going to find much that can go over 50,000 rpm - so that's one practical limitation). I'm also working on a cheaper, easier to build variant that should support about 650hp - check out my videos from a month or two ago. I set that aside because I need to try a different motor, so I've decided to turn my attentions to this thing. But I'll get back on that one soon enough.
@@AlexLTDLX maibe try gearing the electic motor up and use one with more watts think running one at that speed will wear it out pretty fast anyway
Why remove the vortech gearing? Drivetrain loss? Seems like a perfect setup to use multiple motors, pulleys to fine tune the compressor rpm
Because power is torque x rpm. And the more torque a motor produces for a given power, the larger the motor has to be. A similar power motor to the one I'm using here that spins at only 8,000 rpm would easily weigh at least 50-80 lbs and be a lot bigger.
What kv are those mgm motors? I have a couple Castle 1650kv motors would they work with this kit?
Was wondering the reasons why you stopped using the Speedmaster P2. Was it the inability to connect the electric motor directly to the belt drive shaft, or that the new one was just higher quality and more capable, even though it had all the gear drive mechanism that you had to remove. Thanks for sharing all this info!
I actually haven't stopped using it - I've just been to busy to turn my attentions to it. I will, as soon as possible - I do feel it's a more cost-effective solution than the Sledgehammer. Building this barndominium 1,600 miles away is really sucking up a lot of my time, but when it's done - hopefully done enough to move into by next spring/early summer - I'll have a lot more time and space to devote to this stuff. Frankly, I can't wait. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@AlexLTDLX I am just finishing up a barndominium just north of The Woodlands in Houston, Texas. It has 1500 ft2 living space and 6000 ft2 of shop space that is tall enough inside to double that with a second story if ever needed. I am a retired engineer and think I did some neat things in building it. If you happen to make it to Houston, I would be glad to give you a tour in hopes it gives you some ideas. All the best to your building project!
My f150 runs on CNG. Compressed natural gas. The tank sits at 3,600psi. It’s 120 octane rating. Wonder what the possibilities are to have a second ‘air’ tank that shoves the mixture into the motor. Forced air with no input besides the 3,600 psi in the tanks. The HP would be spent putting the air into the tank. Something to consider.
Mickey Thompson actually did that back in the day. Worth googling if you haven't seen it.
@@AlexLTDLX take a look at ‘Compressed air super chargers’! A guy has products and a system for this.
10/10 will buy a kit if sold
What are you putting it on?
This: ua-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/v-deo.html
How would someone tune their engine for this? Although I’d assume you can figure a way to use a pressure sensor and some electrical components to keep your boost at a specific pressure no patter the rpm. You’d have to have it automatically adjust the motor speed accordingly with either throttle position or relative to intake pressure/boost
My car has an aftermarket EFI setup. Here it is at the track: ua-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/v-deo.html
@@AlexLTDLX I saw but what controls the speed of the turbine motor? Is it full on all the time?
In my case it's on full speed once the throttle is over 80% and the engine is over 3,000 rpm; since the car makes 500 hp N/A, I'm going for max power. But you could easily stage it. I'm working on a "universal" controller based on a differential MAP sensor.
Nice build.
What motor is that?
I am not familiar with 6 connection brushless motors.
That's an LMT motor.
How much for one of these assembled with elec controller
Why did you choose a supercharger as your base for this? I was thinking of making something like this but I was planning to use a turbo with a blown exhaust housing.
Just what you had on hand? Or is there something I'm not thinking...?
Good question - turbos generally require higher impeller speeds than centrifugal superchargers. Given the hp level I was looking for (editing the second dyno video right now - and this thing is definitely capable of 800 flywheel hp on a good weather day), and the available brushless motors/ESCs, this seemed like a logical choice. If you're looking for less power, there are smaller brushless motors that can turn 75,000 rpm; but definitely check out the P2 versions on my channel - they make make less power, but are a lot cheaper and are more "tunable" given the belt drive and available pulley ratios. You could optimize those for a particular engine much easier.
I think you'll find that as the gaffertape "yields" the clamp bolts loosen and rattle out. Slowly because of the viscosity of the anti seize
That's a good thought. I'll keep an eye on that.
doesn't need much torque, tape only compresses so much. the support tubes on the all thread shouldn't be issue either, diameter gives some bicycle frame type rigidity short as they are, motor can't twist on its mount plate. loctite and a little torque, still keep a watch on it all anyway but I doubt it'll budge any.
I like the fact you are trying :) , cause making power to run things in a vehicle is relatively easy but finding something to then power a device efficiently to do a job is the hard thing.
The advantage to all this in this day and once you have a working prototype its easy to have someone make it and or upgrade it to suit production.
Keep it up and thanks
Thanks. We already have a working prototype: ua-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/v-deo.html Now I'm working on two different models - this one for more power (first working prototype made about 650 hp; the goals for the sledgehammer is about 850 hp); the goal for the other belt-driven unit is compactness, cost-effectiveness and ease of construction.
what impeller did you use? I see a LMT motor but I'm not sure what youre using for the centrifugal impeller...
Vortech Si trim with a billet impeller.
Can u make a thrust messurement of the blower at full power please :) my bet is about 20kg
I don't know how I would do that. I do know it draws some vacuum under the back side of the impeller though.
@@AlexLTDLX thrust.. put it on a bathroom scale pointed straight up, subtract unit weight from powered weight. simple static thrust.
simple+solid wood cradle to set it in, the "and tattooed" type.
Lol. That would be very difficult to do, but a good idea. The P2 version was lifting over 50 lbs blowing down. And then there's the challenge of doing all that while fearing an explosion, fire, etc...
Thx a lot ;)) it would bring us a step closer to compact hose or wirebound jetpack funflyers like 4 or more units paralel =200kw would do the job ;)) who wants to build/ try that too gives a thumb up ;D
@@AlexLTDLX hi i did some mesurements with a brushles dyson turbineunit i let it blow with the ideal cone nozzle directly on the plate of my scale and come down to 1.3kw per kg force what should be about the same as thrust. 338watts 260g force on plate ...so for my 70kg we balance in air with 91Kw ;))
I got a thick wall 1835 that's got four individual throttle bodies for the electronic fuel injection I would love to add this setup all I got to do is put some hats on the throttle bodies and have someone professionally tune the computer
What is the Model, KV, and any other specs on that Lehner motor?
I believe it's an LMT 30100 motor. I don't remember the kV off the top of my head, but it's good for 50,000 rpm and 63 volts. Everything is currently packed up for my move.
How much money have you invested in to this project?
Please don't make me add it up. It'll make me cry. But so far, I'm quite sure I'm well over 5 figures getting to this point. After all, I've bought 5 motors, blew up 4 ESCs, bought about $2,000 worth of batteries, even well over $1,000 worth of cables and connectors, a billet impeller, a volute, another entire supercharger, etc. It's a lot. But it's all in the name of development; finding and overcoming the pitfalls.
@@AlexLTDLX i know how you feel, I started to make my own pcp airguns as they are expensive Now I have cnc machining center, two cnc lathes and a garage full of other tools. It got out of hands really fast. But now I'm owning one of the most powerful airguns in the world.
I have a REALLY stupid question, but forgive me because I’m an engineer….but….why did you remove the gearing? Couldn’t you have pushed far more rpm (and as a result, higher boost) at the impeller with the gearing?
That's a good question. And there's a good reason - high speed, lower torque motors are generally lighter, cheaper and smaller. And horsepower (like watts) is an actual measure of work. You could have a 50,000 rpm motor that fits in the palm of your hand and makes 53 hp - which happens to describe the motor I'm using. A low speed, 53 hp electric motor that only spins to 10,000 rpm would weigh at least 80 lbs and be at least 5 times bigger - yet both are capable of doing the same work. Actually, the direct drive unit (i.e. 50,000 rpm) is more efficient because there are no gearing losses and the magnet to stator gap is smaller. Now if you're wondering why I don't run gearing on the motor I've got to get more rpm, it's because as you go up in rpm, you lose torque - and we're already power limited.
This video was very precise I must admit! Lol awesome content thank you brother
Thanks for the kind words!
Where can I get one? I have a CR-Z I wanna use to make a point lol
As the owner of a polished aluminum airplane (which seemed like a good idea at a time), I feel your pain about polished aluminum. When it looks good, it's amazing. The other 99.99999999% of the time, it's "Oh $%^#, a smudge!!!". I feel like I'm painting the golden gate bridge when it comes to polishing.
Thanks for the comment. And I actually get the Golden Gate Bridge reference.
AlexLabs Corp. Where the future is made, today.
:) Dr. Bunsen Honeydew and Beaker are childhood icons for me!
Beautiful precision work man. Keep up the great work man
Thanks for the kind words and taking the time to comment!
What Motor is he using
That's an LMT motor and an MGM ESC. This was it at the track: ua-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/v-deo.html
Interesting. You did take care to match the motor characteristics to the requirements of the compressor, didn’t you? I’m thinking the motor won’t be capable of spinning at the sort of speeds you’re going to need to get the compressor working correctly. Do you have the specifics posted anywhere?
Watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/h7yScua28I8/v-deo.html
What happened to the P2 version?
Still happening - I've got a different motor (sensored 4 pole Castle Creations unit) that should alleviate the high eRPM and consistency issues. But I got tired of endless garage testing and wanted to switch over to something I can test on the car ASAP. That's this setup. I'll got back to the P2 Unit once we get some testing (dyno and dragstrip) done with this one. I might even compound the two.
@@AlexLTDLX compounding might be problematic, you have to remember with compounding that the primary has to support the total power airflow of the system AT the P/R that it runs at by itself.
Now, if you made a smaller one out of like a 3582 compressor housing and wheel and used that as the secondary, compounding might be easier and could be the way to go for efficiency.
If the P2 blower has say 70lb/min of flow at a P/R of 1.6 and you wanted to run a total boost of say 25psi, you could run the secondary at a p/r of like 1.7. You could get close to 700 wheel with an insane torque curve and high efficiency.
However, you would need to start with an engine that would produce about 700 whp at 25 psi of boost.
The other good thing about doing it with electric motors is that you have total control over the ramp in and total impeller speed. You could program it for total efficiency and power throughout the curve.
@@AlexLTDLX Actually, one thing you might consider is to run a 3582 turbo and then use the P2 to compound for top end power. It would work well on a smaller motor with less mods. It would be ideal on say a 4.6 2v. Something that makes about 250-280hp stock with a total goal of about 700 wheel. You'd get that quick spool from the small turbo and then the high end with the compounded e-S/C.
You could just run the turbo for about 450 wheel for driving around and press the button at WOT for that extra kick...lol
what is the original design purpose for that motor? E-Bike or 1/5 RC truck? wait 53hp thats not either of what ive just thought of.
1/5 RC stuff. But I think that would be nuts. Heck, this thing would do well geared down in a small motorcycle. Or a go kart.
💪🏽 beast mode I would love to install this in my 99 v8 sho
Would this be an electric centrifugal supercharger technically?
I get a lot of these comments - I made a video to address them: ua-cam.com/video/QheFyxAWT88/v-deo.html
What size motor is that? Its huge! Beautiful craftsmanship. You have to sell these because i need that bad! Cheers from Australia ❤
Thanks - that's an LMT 30100 motor. It's rated for 50,000 rpm and 53 hp.
Can’t wait to see the results!!
That makes two of us.
You're doing nice machine work man looks great 👍💯
Thanks - if you didn't see it, this is how this thing did at the track: ua-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/v-deo.html
Awesome Alex!
Thank you sir.
More then 20yrs ago, without UA-cam, I had the same idea and everyone called me crazy...
.
where do u even find a motor like that.
LMT in Germany made this one. It wasn't cheap or easy to get - which is why I've developed an easier, cheaper unit that supports only slightly less power.
It's looking good!
Thanks. I hope it works as good as it looks.
@@AlexLTDLX I think it'll blow the doors off honestly
Great work. Btw, are you sponsored by Opinel by any chance?
Lol - no.
Thanks for your work. This is great.
I am excited to see how this new configuration works out.
I gave you a like because I think it's worth it.🍻
axial flux motors?
If you get a chance to mass-produce this turbo I will buy it. The first electric turbo that is not a scam from ebay
It's not the first one that works. There's a few commercial models, but you get what you pay for, they're a few grand for the kit. I think it was MCM that did a video on them a few years ago, the electric turbos that actually work... They worked great for smaller cars up to like 6cyl. For 8 they were a little too little air flowed, but they weren't sized for 8 either.
6:42 "Vortech used an oddball M12 x 1.5"
Everyone, except Americans: "Vortech used a perfectly sensible M12 x 1.5"
Lol
My nephew in law is Ukrainian. The first thing I did when the war started was to see if he needed anything. He didn’t need my help so I pray daily for Ukraine. What a hearty and determined people. For what little they have, they’re kicking Russian ASS. I don’t blame the Russian soldiers for this either. Their officers should know better, but they have been lied to, in much the same way as our Government has lied to us. You should know who I’m talking about. If not, do the research!
Good stuff. I always wondered how the motors are connected to the supercharger.
I've used gaffers tape for furnace ducting! Overkill I know but it was what I had...
You remember those cars you roll, and they self propel with sparks out the back?
Lol - I had one as a kid that looked like a formula one car and had a toothed zip tie thing that you'd pull through to get the car going (and sparking)...
Quick question what did use to machine those plates? They came out pretty neat🔥
I also have a small lathe. That thing has more than paid for itself. It's an 8x12 Harbor Freight deal - not my first choice, but around where I live used, decent machine tools are pretty much non existent. With some modifications, it does pretty well. If and or when I get more space, a bigger mill is my first priority.
What kv is the motor?
I think it's 840kV. It's the 5 wind version.
@@AlexLTDLX have you played around with different kv's
No - getting this one literally took months...
@@AlexLTDLX dang I think you are on to something Very big I had the same thought been in rc's for years. Want to run alot of thing off motors like that.
@@AlexLTDLX have you seen the max 5 esc /motor combo
wouldnt that technically be a supercharger since its no longer driven by exhaust gasses. like a procharger sort of.
Yes it would. But this is why I made this short video: ua-cam.com/users/shortsQheFyxAWT88?feature=share
wow 420% lol. thanks man.
I always wondered why these things weren't direct driven with a dirty great brushless outrunner. Tips hat!
M12 1.5 is a auto standard for a lot of import cars just did a hood on a Toyota Carolla yesterday bolts you guessed it m12 1.5
Yeah, it's just odd because literally every other bolt on that thing is SAE.
Your lawn mower is going to run real good with that on there
It put a 12 second, 3,500 lb sedan into the 9s on pump gas at the drag strip: ua-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/v-deo.html
Well I never would have guessed Ukrainian but there you go. Looks like you took a lot of thought into supporting the motor cannot wait to see what the future holds can't wait for track time of course.
Yeah - we look like normal people, lol. The motor support was really the most obvious choice requiring the least modification to the existing setup. I was just not looking forward to spending the time making it. The standoffs were easy; that silly bracket took a lot of layout time and slow going on the machine work. Running the boring head even slowly made the whole machine shake.
@@AlexLTDLX haha I should clarify that I was referring to a few videos back when you were asking us to take a guess of what other language you spoke based on what little accent you have I would have never guessed Ukrainian.
Oh yeah - forgot about that.
@@AlexLTDLX what's happening now is something else..
lots of information AND disinformation about what's really what.
how I know it to be, may be offensive to who I may think is misinformed.
leave it at that, and pray that all the evil is there stopped.
same as I pray all the evil HERE is stopped.
You sound like a mix of Charlie (moist critical) and Nicolas Cage. I loved the video btw.