You should send the bad AMR500 to get a quality overhaul for a blower shop improve bearings and oiling and seals maybe new rotors. Then test both a stock cheapo with an optimized rebuild. Idk 🤷🏻♂️ I’d find that really entertaining for comparison.
Just some high precision bearings alone would likely make a pretty big difference. But the cost of good bearings is almost the same as the supercharger lol.. Yhe phrase I'm thinking of right now is "you can't polish a turd".
@@christopher4101 I wouldn’t go as far as calling the supercharger a turd, but plenty of people rebuild cheapo turbos and upgrade them after they blowout. I wouldn’t say it’s any different. Cost effective probably not.
Its only loud because people run them wide open all the time and either run them up to stall boost or just completely bypass when the throttle is closed. Thats a LOT of air or a LOT of pressure. Both of those things on a pds make a shit ton of noise. Put a throttlebody on the blower inlet and take the tb off the engine's intake and you'll have a very silent and far more tunable config.
They make more noise when there's an outlet restriction like a closed throttle body which diesels don't have. At full throttle it's mostly the design of the blower. You can drastically quiet any blower down by putting a throttle body in front of it, which also reduces the amount of heat build up at part throttle. source: my m90 supercharged rx7 with two throttle bodies
My 2c, You dont need a bypass valve. You need to wire the throttle body on the engine wide open, (or better yet remove the throttle plate to remove a restriction) then fit a throttle body (with TPS) to the inlet of the supercharger. When the blower spins, it pumps air. UNLESS you throttle the intake. All the blown V8s, (6/71-14/71 etc) run either a carb(s) or mechanical fuel injection with throttle omates to control air on the intake of the supercharger. I put an sc14 (1.4ltres of air per revolution) on a datsun A15. (Drawthrough carb) the further i opened the throttle, the higher the boost went. I could hit wot off idle, and it remained at peak boost right through till valvebounce. Its a bit more faffing about to do this to your set up BUT you will get linea torque production. And stable consistant boost figures. The other thing i would do is, given how high the milage is on this wreck, id have the injector (i presume it just run one big one?) Cleaned and flowed. If the spray pattern is all over the show, youll have a harder time getting good fuel distribution. And therefore get less peak horsepower. Love your work btw
A BOV isnt intended to flow continuously. A friend ran one on a CA18DET (which was supercharged instead of turbo) the noise of it moving 1.4 litres of air (per revolution) sounded like a satanic duck caller! (No, it really did) I have zero doubt youll make it work. But it seems like a compromise in my personal experience. Having manifold pressure being directly proportional to throttle opening would make tuning the load table maps a breeze too. I boosted 74 flywheel hp up to 124 whp on mine. It used to really cook in a 750kg car......
Throttle body, injectors, it's a carburettor. I was under the impression, from back in the day that to use a blow thru carb setup you need to modify the carb to handle pressure, or run draw thru . Id try a simple spfi
If it started out with 40-50hp then that things gonna thump. A fun thing to do after it's built ,is to find a willing participant with the same car but stock ,and see how bad you smoke it. Kinda wish DaveYugo was still alive ,I believe he was ripping some 14 flats with a na yugo
Here on You Tube there is a channel called Robot Cantina. Over there they are using a supercharged 3-cylinder Kabota diesel to power a small Honda car. He is now working on sensors and variable rack position in the injection pump as well as regulating boost to stop black smoke on take off. Great stuff. This reminds me of his project.
Chick-Fil-A magnet? Couldn’t complain being married to the finest women ever and she be feeding me some fine chick-fil-a nuggets. That’d be paradise.😊 No ride faster going to chick-fil-a and back!😅
@@kona5853 Kids back in the day thought it was the Corvette from Corvette Summer, or the Trans Am from Smokey and the Bandit.. but the car that makes their clothes fall off at first sight is the blown egg white Geo Metro.
I want to try one of these on my beater kia spectra (2.0 tiburon engine with a speeduino) Have you seen the Robot Cantina yt? He has one of these blowers on a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel...mated to a saturn 5spd...mounted in a honda element. Pretty fun stuff.
I cant wait for a healthy AMR 500 paired with that Holley Throttle Body! I love these super fun builds like this, you never know what is gonna happen next
we had a suzuki swift with a 4 cylinder, that thing was actually pretty fun. it would torque steer on the 1 - 2 shift. roll up windows, no a/c, no power anything. nothing to break
Good idea, but the MAT isn't able to add a lot of fuel, so I would use the coolant temp input instead. You can use a 10 turn potentiometer and use the knob to adjust the fuel to what you want.
@echadmiyodea There are 2 problems using coolant temp sensor one. The car never actually goes into closed lope. 2. Because of this open loop situation, you won't have any fuel trimming at all from the 02 sensor. This way, when you're under cruise without boost, you'll have an overfuel rich. your miles per gallon will take a hit. Using the air tamp is the best way while still keeping the ability to have closed-loop.
These little engines impress the hell outta me! They're making 1hp per cubic inch, running at 4,500 rpm on the interstate, and still lasting 300,000 miles! You can't talk real numbers with these engines because the numbers are too low, gaining 10hp isn't a big deal, gaining 20% more power rings home better.
Hey Richard, love the channel. Love what you're doing on there. Really cool to see you working on these unusual projects like this with the Metro. I mean it's cool to see you know any of the V8 engines that you work on and see you getting more and more power out of them. But to see these kind of oddball projects like this is really cool and just really enjoy the channel and always like watching your channel because I know I'm going to learn something valuable and then you make it where it's more understandable and easier to understand for the regular folk which I really appreciate. So keep up the great work. Look forward to your future videos
Chilly Bomb needs an Igloo mod with a submersible pump for on board intercooling. The extra weight might kill your gains though. Maybe take the seats out, passengers can sit on the cooler.
Who's metro ? That thing is sweet ! I love projects like that. During your testing it looks like you may have been losing boost right around the bonnet. Watch the video and it looks like it's spraying away from where the tube enters the bonnet and blowing towards the right. May have been an illusion, but I'd look for a leak. maybe the wing nut wasn't holding it down hard enough. Also I'd put some Slick50 into that blower lol.
I bought a green XFI new in '92, & a blue '94. Consistently in the mid to upper 50mpg range, but sold after too many close calls from distracted drivers. The window would always pop out of the track too. Cheap car.
You could always do the old Gus Mahon trick and use VW or SAAB cold start injectors on a boost referenced switch. You should only need one of the VW ones as they're good for about 15-20hp worth of fuel.
Pretty sure a roots blower likes to have some fuel pulled through it. that thing sounded real bad... this might be the only time I thought, maybe running the PCV oily air into the intake , after the air cleaner , would be a good idea.
Okay, I'm just going on record here for comparison: The American Chevette engines (1.6L gas and 1.8L diesel--both N/A) put out better numbers than that. (70-hp and 55-hp, respectively) As for the European models: They had option for a 150-hp DOHC Lotus 2.3L I-4 w/ dual side-draft Webers.
Love this I bought an xfi long ago. I went looking for a turbo Sprint. But they discontinued it. Wish I still had it got 55 mpg after mods. 13" tires, advanced cam timing and shaved the head .030 to get that dismally low compression up. The xfi has taller gearing. If you wanted to hot rod one I'd go for the standard Metro for the gearing. Totally interested in this with the new parts your getting.
With the stock efi the most common way to do this is to use a non 1:1 fmu. Like the old supercharger setups on oxbodies and such. 5psi is about a third more air volume and the flow thru an orifice equation has a square in it. 45 psi stock and we need 33% more fuel so 1.33x1.33 = 1.77 times 45 = about 80psi will be the target extra 35 psi means you need a 7 to 1 fmu. might need a voltage clamp on the stock map sensor so it doesnt think its shorted.
Having three Geo Metros myself, this is exactly what I want to see! Ive been interested in trying an amr500 supercharger on one of them to see what it would do. I have a 1991 Geo Metro XFi, as well as two Geo Metro base models with the 55 hp engine, which i think would be better candidates for the supercharger upgrade since they have a more aggressive cam and probably different fuel maps.
XFI with it's single gap less piston ring may not be up to snuff for boosting??? I got 280,000 miles out of mine before the lower control arm mounting rusted and it was going to fail on the highway and turn hard into the next oncoming 18 wheeler. Just not the battle I want to be in. Besides they had brand new metros at the Chevy dealer(2020) There called Chevy Spark now. Not a bad car and it still comes with the coast pedal next to brake pedal.
Hi, I saved the engine from my retired '89 Metro XFi and have a second G 10 engine. I currently drive a '93 Suzuki Swift with the 4 cylinder. I also have an AMR 500, a AMR 300 & a VZ 21 turbo.too. The stock plastic inlet & outlet fittings are not good. I am in So Cal and would like to help.
use a 10-turn potentiometer of the right resistance range to replace the coolant temp sensor and you can adjust the extra fuel through the injector that way.
and I thought Lysholm blowers were noisy AF...😂... once you get this thing dialed...you won't be able to keep tires on it...the next weak link is probly the clutch and cv axles... looking forward to how this project develops...
I've seen other videos of these where the plastic is coming off the rotor material. One it was brand new doing it. These things probably just have a high rate of manufacturing defects.
I had the chevy sprint version, suzuki swift in japan, and it was fantastic. Wish I still had it. When they were first imporyed you would find them in scrap yards brand new with the sticker on the window, and plastic on the seats but the engines were always gone. Ultralight aircraft guys were buying them because the engines were better and much cheaper than lycoming or other traditionally used engines. There was also a turbo model available.
Use a cheap microsquirt ecu with a single injector and a supercharged VW POLO (Fox) G40 throttle body. The throttle body on those cars has a twin butterfly to allow boost to recycle at idle and part throttle. The secondary bypass throttle only fully closes at WOT, a clever design.
Richard I love this kinda stuff, ya know, just as low-buck as it can possibly get. Because ya know that's like the only way I would ever have a chance of making something like this happen. Lol
I had a 95 Suzuki swift. With a 1.3. Redline 4 cylinder. Single overhead cam motor. It would boil the tires as long as you stayed in it. It would run Away from Hemi in a eighth of a mile after that it was done.
Now you have me wondering what that would do for a 4 cylinder gasoline tractor that NA makes about 47 hp, and is fairly low compression with up draft carburetor on it. Yes I understand that the fuel has to be increased, and is easily enough done by installing a piece of pipe in a J configuration with the proper flanges welded on to each end to allow for a 2 barrel carb to be used on top of the pipe down to the factory manifold, are even a new manifold to work with a 2 barrel carb or whatever you want. By doing this this would allow for a custom header to be built as well giving several power adders at the same time. First thing is you eliminated the heat soaked intake that's built into the exhaust manifold too, bith of cast iorn and seriously one casting. Then you have cooler intake air with more flow capacity and same with exhaust. Eaay enough to put intercooler in front of radiator, and the fan blades move more than enough airflow to do both jobs equally as well. And what's a couple extra tubes running around on the engine and cooling system on a old tractor. There use to be a guy that was in Europe thar had installed an audi turbo on a 4 cylinder tractor that was wicked, but way too much power for it to be useful except as a toy because if you put a load behind it, all it was going to do is dig itself into China because of wheel spin .
kinda sounds like a table saw w the blower lmao. is 40 hp the lowest your dyno has ever seen Rich lol. this was pretty damn cool thanks for the upload.
Couldn't you have put a smaller jet in the nozzle? Option 2 run a pressure referenced hose into a sealed container with fuel and a second hose from the fuel to the nozzle. It will raise and lower the fuel with pressure. This was from an old book how to turbocharge anything way before efi and even blow through carbs were common
I've seen a few things, but this is the first time I have seen someone try to PWM an injector by hand! Basically most fires were rich or lean, very rarely would you have lucked out and seen the average appear to be correct! Next time get an electronic guy to rig you up a little PWM controller running at an appropriate frequency (easy to figure from the injector specs.)
Wonder why it was so loud and why it died... oh yeah, it was open to atmospheric pressure the entire time and probably made 20+ psi on the back of that poor little throttle blade when you shut it. To do this correctly, you need to push the blower through a cooling brick straight into the intake. Put the throttle body BEFORE the blower. Not only will you not run the compressor at its MAX LOAD the entire time, but it'll actually be quieter. In fact, you shouldnt hear it at all until you floor it. Putting another blower in this same config, even with a blow off valve, i still see it shitting the bed. You need to restrict blower inlet airflow. You'll take a crap ton of load off the crank which will drastically improve idle as well.
this was a pretty cool little test. I love "just seeing what it will do" sort of tests. That blower is obnoxiously loud though :) I don't think I've ever seen any dyno runs with this little power too. I bet this thing is a DOG on the road.
Long live the Pontiac Turbo Firefly! I have a fever, and the only prescription is more Metro! You guys should find a turbo Sprint or a turbo Firefly from Canada - a ton of fun right out of the box. Stand alone ecm and fuel system will be needed to overcome the fueling issues. Stock ecm can't read boost. Thanks for featuring the best little cars ever made... in Canada. Pontiac: We Build Excitement!
Awesome stuff, can’t wait for the next video on this. Btw have you thought about doing a ford 300 boosted blow up like you’ve done on the sbf and sbc? That boosted video from power nation I think did well, but I know you would keep adding more boost. Just a thought.
@richardholdener1727 well it's a thing I've invented and build, it's a 2 stage air pump... the first stage matches the input pump, the amr500 could boost a much larger engine, or the second stage can boost 120 psi in short bursts. Also turned them into marine ramjet engines for boats, and currently working on using them to power an aircraft. They have more in common with a jet engine for your intake, but the turbo and superchargers are used to fuel and power them. Pretty neat. I've got more about them on my tok.
@@richardholdener1727 at that low of a boost level a fuel management unit would do great, you'd need a solid fuel pump though I remember in your first dyno video of that car you had what seemed to be a weak pump. I've installed around 50 fmu tuned low boost setups and never had much issue. Air to air intercooler would probably be easier too if ya planned to drive it.
@@richardholdener1727 damn... I was thinking about putting One of those on a 92 fiat panda 4x4, but running at around 6-7 psi, so i think it shouldn't explode at those pressures!
I have seen a previous test of these cheap blowers and it lasted less than five minutes being driven on the street. the rotors inside the blower are plastic coated and die within 5 minutes of being used. They are a joke?
Kind of a common problem with those blower, it's a bit of a russian roulette with their reliability, some survive, some dies fast... And yeah, replace those flanges, they are freaking crap! As i said before, with a good setup, and a good amr you can make 140 crankhp, maybe not on that engine though, our base engine was making around 90hp
Might be wicked cool to take the junk AMR500 and 3D print new rotors for it, only convert it into a Lysholm/twin-screw supercharger - I bet that little engine would *love* the higher efficiency
I don't think WOT is closed loop and we didn't have an issue with the nitrous. Positive pressure and 100+ kpa map reading at idle is likely the issue for idle quality
You should send the bad AMR500 to get a quality overhaul for a blower shop improve bearings and oiling and seals maybe new rotors. Then test both a stock cheapo with an optimized rebuild. Idk 🤷🏻♂️ I’d find that really entertaining for comparison.
I also want to se this!!
Just some high precision bearings alone would likely make a pretty big difference. But the cost of good bearings is almost the same as the supercharger lol.. Yhe phrase I'm thinking of right now is "you can't polish a turd".
@@christopher4101 I wouldn’t go as far as calling the supercharger a turd, but plenty of people rebuild cheapo turbos and upgrade them after they blowout. I wouldn’t say it’s any different. Cost effective probably not.
Seen alot of vids where the amr is super loud, but robot cantina has one that is quiet and makes decent boost on a tiny diesel
Because alot of the time they mount them wrong way round. Just like donut and ghpc😅
Its only loud because people run them wide open all the time and either run them up to stall boost or just completely bypass when the throttle is closed. Thats a LOT of air or a LOT of pressure. Both of those things on a pds make a shit ton of noise. Put a throttlebody on the blower inlet and take the tb off the engine's intake and you'll have a very silent and far more tunable config.
They make more noise when there's an outlet restriction like a closed throttle body which diesels don't have. At full throttle it's mostly the design of the blower.
You can drastically quiet any blower down by putting a throttle body in front of it, which also reduces the amount of heat build up at part throttle. source: my m90 supercharged rx7 with two throttle bodies
@@gadgetdeez7069"pds"? What's that?
The metro content is some of the best stuff Richard has made 😆 I love this
My 2c,
You dont need a bypass valve.
You need to wire the throttle body on the engine wide open, (or better yet remove the throttle plate to remove a restriction) then fit a throttle body (with TPS) to the inlet of the supercharger.
When the blower spins, it pumps air. UNLESS you throttle the intake.
All the blown V8s, (6/71-14/71 etc) run either a carb(s) or mechanical fuel injection with throttle omates to control air on the intake of the supercharger.
I put an sc14 (1.4ltres of air per revolution) on a datsun A15. (Drawthrough carb) the further i opened the throttle, the higher the boost went. I could hit wot off idle, and it remained at peak boost right through till valvebounce.
Its a bit more faffing about to do this to your set up BUT you will get linea torque production. And stable consistant boost figures.
The other thing i would do is, given how high the milage is on this wreck, id have the injector (i presume it just run one big one?) Cleaned and flowed. If the spray pattern is all over the show, youll have a harder time getting good fuel distribution. And therefore get less peak horsepower.
Love your work btw
a BOV will eliminate boost at idle and part throttle
A BOV isnt intended to flow continuously. A friend ran one on a CA18DET (which was supercharged instead of turbo) the noise of it moving 1.4 litres of air (per revolution) sounded like a satanic duck caller! (No, it really did)
I have zero doubt youll make it work. But it seems like a compromise in my personal experience. Having manifold pressure being directly proportional to throttle opening would make tuning the load table maps a breeze too. I boosted 74 flywheel hp up to 124 whp on mine. It used to really cook in a 750kg car......
Throttle body, injectors, it's a carburettor.
I was under the impression, from back in the day that to use a blow thru carb setup you need to modify the carb to handle pressure, or run draw thru . Id try a simple spfi
@@Rob-rp3cw what are you talking about? It's fuel injected not carbureted.
@@DrewLSsix ok, I should've looked closer, not an engine I know.
C'mon baby! Let's make 80-100 to the wheels!
I did 120 whp with my Sprint Turbo
@richardholdener1727 this time up 200 😆
@@richardholdener1727 120 hoarse metro would be such a fun commuter
@@richardholdener1727 those were fun to drive. Worked at a dealer when they came out
If it started out with 40-50hp then that things gonna thump.
A fun thing to do after it's built ,is to find a willing participant with the same car but stock ,and see how bad you smoke it.
Kinda wish DaveYugo was still alive ,I believe he was ripping some 14 flats with a na yugo
Here on You Tube there is a channel called Robot Cantina. Over there they are using a supercharged 3-cylinder Kabota diesel to power a small Honda car. He is now working on sensors and
variable rack position in the injection pump as well as regulating boost to stop black smoke on take off. Great stuff. This reminds me of his project.
Too bad you’re married, imagine all the women you can meet with such a fine vehicle
I have the best gal-but panda X-Press does pull!
Are you kidding? That's how he met Lisa!
Chick magnet! 100%!!
Chick-Fil-A magnet? Couldn’t complain being married to the finest women ever and she be feeding me some fine chick-fil-a nuggets. That’d be paradise.😊 No ride faster going to chick-fil-a and back!😅
@@kona5853 Kids back in the day thought it was the Corvette from Corvette Summer, or the Trans Am from Smokey and the Bandit.. but the car that makes their clothes fall off at first sight is the blown egg white Geo Metro.
I want to try one of these on my beater kia spectra (2.0 tiburon engine with a speeduino)
Have you seen the Robot Cantina yt? He has one of these blowers on a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel...mated to a saturn 5spd...mounted in a honda element. Pretty fun stuff.
Would a vortech Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR) help control the AFR under boost here? 🤔 Awesome testing
Is that a Vortec branded FMU?
@@Sir.VicsMasher yes, they came with superchargers back in the 90s.
It shouldn’t make a difference on 40 psi fuel injection only running 4 psi boost.
I was gonna say, the blower sounds unhappy. Looking forward to more Metro stuff. Also... CHILLY BOMB! YAY! 😎
I cant wait for a healthy AMR 500 paired with that Holley Throttle Body!
I love these super fun builds like this, you never know what is gonna happen next
Broooo $2k EFI might as well be a space shuttle. This thing deserves an arduino based megasquirt clone lol
@@scottleggejrspeeduino or rusefi would be a cool project indeed.
we had a suzuki swift with a 4 cylinder, that thing was actually pretty fun. it would torque steer on the 1 - 2 shift. roll up windows, no a/c, no power anything. nothing to break
I wish you had detailed the drive ratio of the supercharger and your target boost.
20% more power on 5 psi is quite nice
I will have much more data next test
Put a 100k ohme resistor in place of the air intake sensor location. It will richen it up quite a bit. Should be enough fuel for 5psi or more
Good idea, but the MAT isn't able to add a lot of fuel, so I would use the coolant temp input instead. You can use a 10 turn potentiometer and use the knob to adjust the fuel to what you want.
@echadmiyodea There are 2 problems using coolant temp sensor one. The car never actually goes into closed lope. 2. Because of this open loop situation, you won't have any fuel trimming at all from the 02 sensor. This way, when you're under cruise without boost, you'll have an overfuel rich. your miles per gallon will take a hit. Using the air tamp is the best way while still keeping the ability to have closed-loop.
Dang that exhaust note took me back to high school for a moment
These little engines impress the hell outta me! They're making 1hp per cubic inch, running at 4,500 rpm on the interstate, and still lasting 300,000 miles! You can't talk real numbers with these engines because the numbers are too low, gaining 10hp isn't a big deal, gaining 20% more power rings home better.
I've been looking forward to this video!!
I have a smaller pulley for an AMR 500 that I made when I supercharged my samurai years ago. I can send it to you if you want a party pulley.
thnx-it doesn't need more blower speed-it needs a new blower
Oh man if the single barrel Sniper EFI works well with boost it opens a world of possibilities for lil smaller-than-cars vehicles
Hey Richard, love the channel. Love what you're doing on there. Really cool to see you working on these unusual projects like this with the Metro. I mean it's cool to see you know any of the V8 engines that you work on and see you getting more and more power out of them. But to see these kind of oddball projects like this is really cool and just really enjoy the channel and always like watching your channel because I know I'm going to learn something valuable and then you make it where it's more understandable and easier to understand for the regular folk which I really appreciate. So keep up the great work. Look forward to your future videos
thnx for watching
Chilly Bomb needs an Igloo mod with a submersible pump for on board intercooling. The extra weight might kill your gains though. Maybe take the seats out, passengers can sit on the cooler.
Love the total loss water/air Intercooler water circuit.
Who's metro ? That thing is sweet ! I love projects like that. During your testing it looks like you may have been losing boost right around the bonnet. Watch the video and it looks like it's spraying away from where the tube enters the bonnet and blowing towards the right. May have been an illusion, but I'd look for a leak. maybe the wing nut wasn't holding it down hard enough. Also I'd put some Slick50 into that blower lol.
I bought a green XFI new in '92, & a blue '94. Consistently in the mid to upper 50mpg range, but sold after too many close calls from distracted drivers. The window would always pop out of the track too. Cheap car.
You could always do the old Gus Mahon trick and use VW or SAAB cold start injectors on a boost referenced switch. You should only need one of the VW ones as they're good for about 15-20hp worth of fuel.
Pretty sure a roots blower likes to have some fuel pulled through it. that thing sounded real bad... this might be the only time I thought, maybe running the PCV oily air into the intake , after the air cleaner , would be a good idea.
its got the TBI injection, i wonder how hard it would to relocate it over the blower
this roots blower was designed to run just air (no fuel-it was port efi) in the stock application (like most factory EFI motors running roots blowers)
Me being a Suzuki guy I'm loving this project 👍
I wonder if a begi FMU would fix the fuel or a rising rate fuel press reg. If you wanted to keep it cheap.
Hey that motor is tuff! I bought a 1990 firefly and put it threw he'll, and it just kept running and great on fuel
Okay, I'm just going on record here for comparison: The American Chevette engines (1.6L gas and 1.8L diesel--both N/A) put out better numbers than that. (70-hp and 55-hp, respectively) As for the European models: They had option for a 150-hp DOHC Lotus 2.3L I-4 w/ dual side-draft Webers.
were any of those 1.0L 3 cylinders?
😂😂😂😂
Love this I bought an xfi long ago. I went looking for a turbo Sprint. But they discontinued it. Wish I still had it got 55 mpg after mods. 13" tires, advanced cam timing and shaved the head .030 to get that dismally low compression up. The xfi has taller gearing. If you wanted to hot rod one I'd go for the standard Metro for the gearing. Totally interested in this with the new parts your getting.
On vintage beetle 1600 they deliver good power but it wasn't spun beyond specifications
With the stock efi the most common way to do this is to use a non 1:1 fmu. Like the old supercharger setups on oxbodies and such. 5psi is about a third more air volume and the flow thru an orifice equation has a square in it. 45 psi stock and we need 33% more fuel so 1.33x1.33 = 1.77 times 45 = about 80psi will be the target extra 35 psi means you need a 7 to 1 fmu. might need a voltage clamp on the stock map sensor so it doesnt think its shorted.
we did a manual FMU with vice grips
Having three Geo Metros myself, this is exactly what I want to see! Ive been interested in trying an amr500 supercharger on one of them to see what it would do. I have a 1991 Geo Metro XFi, as well as two Geo Metro base models with the 55 hp engine, which i think would be better candidates for the supercharger upgrade since they have a more aggressive cam and probably different fuel maps.
I’m kinda impressed with how much power that old engine put out stock.
XFI with it's single gap less piston ring may not be up to snuff for boosting??? I got 280,000 miles out of mine before the lower control arm mounting rusted and it was going to fail on the highway and turn hard into the next oncoming 18 wheeler. Just not the battle I want to be in. Besides they had brand new metros at the Chevy dealer(2020) There called Chevy Spark now. Not a bad car and it still comes with the coast pedal next to brake pedal.
Hi, I saved the engine from my retired '89 Metro XFi and have a second G 10 engine. I currently drive a '93 Suzuki Swift with the 4 cylinder. I also have an AMR 500, a AMR 300 & a VZ 21 turbo.too. The stock plastic inlet & outlet fittings are not good. I am in So Cal and would like to help.
use a 10-turn potentiometer of the right resistance range to replace the coolant temp sensor and you can adjust the extra fuel through the injector that way.
and I thought Lysholm blowers were noisy AF...😂... once you get this thing dialed...you won't be able to keep tires on it...the next weak link is probly the clutch and cv axles...
looking forward to how this project develops...
Id like to see that AMR on a Predator V-twin
I've seen other videos of these where the plastic is coming off the rotor material. One it was brand new doing it. These things probably just have a high rate of manufacturing defects.
Im on pins and needles with anticipation. Got 3 metros and wanna try this out.
I had the chevy sprint version, suzuki swift in japan, and it was fantastic. Wish I still had it. When they were first imporyed you would find them in scrap yards brand new with the sticker on the window, and plastic on the seats but the engines were always gone. Ultralight aircraft guys were buying them because the engines were better and much cheaper than lycoming or other traditionally used engines. There was also a turbo model available.
I set land speed records in my Turbo Sprint
Use a cheap microsquirt ecu with a single injector and a supercharged VW POLO (Fox) G40 throttle body. The throttle body on those cars has a twin butterfly to allow boost to recycle at idle and part throttle. The secondary bypass throttle only fully closes at WOT, a clever design.
I’m running one of those chilly bombs on my turbo k24 , it can’t keep up on constant pulls , but kinda works ok for the money
Hmmm I may have to try this with a clamped map sensor on my 1.3 swift now lol
Richard I love this kinda stuff, ya know, just as low-buck as it can possibly get. Because ya know that's like the only way I would ever have a chance of making something like this happen. Lol
This is the OTHER GUY I have been waiting for for!!!!
So killer
When I first saw the video I was wondering how you were going to tune it. Fifth injector controller?
I had a 95 Suzuki swift.
With a 1.3. Redline 4 cylinder. Single overhead cam motor. It would boil the tires as long as you stayed in it. It would run Away from Hemi in a eighth of a mile after that it was done.
This is what we need reving up and tuning shitty cars im so sad this trend is running out please never stop
You might think about trying a rising rate fuel pressure regulator .
Nice richard.After solve all problem can you test pandas time in 1/4 ?
Let's start with 0-60 times
How about this on a 1.6 versa ...... asking for a friend
Now you have me wondering what that would do for a 4 cylinder gasoline tractor that NA makes about 47 hp, and is fairly low compression with up draft carburetor on it.
Yes I understand that the fuel has to be increased, and is easily enough done by installing a piece of pipe in a J configuration with the proper flanges welded on to each end to allow for a 2 barrel carb to be used on top of the pipe down to the factory manifold, are even a new manifold to work with a 2 barrel carb or whatever you want.
By doing this this would allow for a custom header to be built as well giving several power adders at the same time.
First thing is you eliminated the heat soaked intake that's built into the exhaust manifold too, bith of cast iorn and seriously one casting.
Then you have cooler intake air with more flow capacity and same with exhaust.
Eaay enough to put intercooler in front of radiator, and the fan blades move more than enough airflow to do both jobs equally as well.
And what's a couple extra tubes running around on the engine and cooling system on a old tractor.
There use to be a guy that was in Europe thar had installed an audi turbo on a 4 cylinder tractor that was wicked, but way too much power for it to be useful except as a toy because if you put a load behind it, all it was going to do is dig itself into China because of wheel spin .
if you place the stock carburetor (or a bigger carb) in front of the blower-the added fuel will take care of itself
kinda sounds like a table saw w the blower lmao. is 40 hp the lowest your dyno has ever seen Rich lol. this was pretty damn cool thanks for the upload.
I swear, my first ever carb bonnet looked just like that..... LOL Love it!
Wonder if you could increase the boost by packing grease in between the rotors
that grease would go into the motor
Use sparingly
Couldn't you have put a smaller jet in the nozzle? Option 2 run a pressure referenced hose into a sealed container with fuel and a second hose from the fuel to the nozzle. It will raise and lower the fuel with pressure. This was from an old book how to turbocharge anything way before efi and even blow through carbs were common
there is a limit to how small you can go on jet size-it is easily clogged
I've seen a few things, but this is the first time I have seen someone try to PWM an injector by hand! Basically most fires were rich or lean, very rarely would you have lucked out and seen the average appear to be correct! Next time get an electronic guy to rig you up a little PWM controller running at an appropriate frequency (easy to figure from the injector specs.)
I wasn't pulse width modulating the injector-it was a nitrous solenoid
I had owned supercharged Jag, its noize is familiar to me😊
That would be nice if they did make a Turbo Diesal Swap for the Metro I would buy one.
Garage 54 - You might make more power if you cut all the counterweights off the crankshaft. Let's try it and see.
Im questioning. If you would attempt this on a 2.2? 5sfe?
Wonder why it was so loud and why it died... oh yeah, it was open to atmospheric pressure the entire time and probably made 20+ psi on the back of that poor little throttle blade when you shut it. To do this correctly, you need to push the blower through a cooling brick straight into the intake. Put the throttle body BEFORE the blower. Not only will you not run the compressor at its MAX LOAD the entire time, but it'll actually be quieter. In fact, you shouldnt hear it at all until you floor it.
Putting another blower in this same config, even with a blow off valve, i still see it shitting the bed. You need to restrict blower inlet airflow. You'll take a crap ton of load off the crank which will drastically improve idle as well.
Any chance you could put the amr before the throttle body and send the fuel through the blower?
how did you even find that??
YES!!!! This is what we've needed!
this was a pretty cool little test. I love "just seeing what it will do" sort of tests. That blower is obnoxiously loud though :) I don't think I've ever seen any dyno runs with this little power too. I bet this thing is a DOG on the road.
have you ever driven a 1.0L Metro XFI? 58 hp is not a performance motor
Be kind of cool to keep it a budget friendly supercharger but have the company make better rotors and strength or sell a sidekick to upgrade HD
Long live the Pontiac Turbo Firefly! I have a fever, and the only prescription is more Metro! You guys should find a turbo Sprint or a turbo Firefly from Canada - a ton of fun right out of the box. Stand alone ecm and fuel system will be needed to overcome the fueling issues. Stock ecm can't read boost. Thanks for featuring the best little cars ever made... in Canada. Pontiac: We Build Excitement!
I had a Turbo Spring that I set some records with-I still have two Sprint Turbo motors-one will be swapped into this Metro for testing
Pretty cool haven't seen any video with that much luck with one of those used so far!!!!!!
Look up robot cantina he's got one on a kobota diesel swapped honda insite, it's bad ass
I have not, but think I may have to check it out, given the opportunity :)
Ypu should have dynoed ot with your new blower hat when it was NA.
LOL @ Boostedboiz shout out Super Richie PWM hahaha
Awesome stuff, can’t wait for the next video on this. Btw have you thought about doing a ford 300 boosted blow up like you’ve done on the sbf and sbc? That boosted video from power nation I think did well, but I know you would keep adding more boost. Just a thought.
Good lord man, you'd have to boost it until it either twists the crank in half or sends the exhaust valves through the turbo as droplets...
Proper tuning solution, with proper injectors, and a healthy SC, I predict 130hp
that number might be a touch generous
If the rotors are getting chewed up, where does that metal go................. 😮💨
what is the chilly bomb made from? or what was its intended purpose
it is a cheap Ebay ATW intercooler
Couldve done a video on that gm quad 4 from the junk yard but no
Lets nitros and turbo a geo metro
You wanna Improve that charger more... use it with one of my venturi based air boost pumps and you'll really get a boost
what is a venturi based air boost pump?
@richardholdener1727 well it's a thing I've invented and build, it's a 2 stage air pump... the first stage matches the input pump, the amr500 could boost a much larger engine, or the second stage can boost 120 psi in short bursts. Also turned them into marine ramjet engines for boats, and currently working on using them to power an aircraft. They have more in common with a jet engine for your intake, but the turbo and superchargers are used to fuel and power them. Pretty neat. I've got more about them on my tok.
I wonder if one of those would work on my 4.3 v6 🤔
A used Eaton off a T-bird Super Coupe or Buick 3800 would be better suited...and much more reliable.
@@JeffKopis true enough, lol
look like your new intake thing is leaking because seal hose is too short? 😁
What's that thing got? Square gears? Also fuel pressure is really low in those so your gonna be lean.
fuel pressure was not low
Best dyno pull ever
This relates to many if not most of us!
Why not add a fmu and get it much more consistent?
that isn't enough
@@richardholdener1727 at that low of a boost level a fuel management unit would do great, you'd need a solid fuel pump though I remember in your first dyno video of that car you had what seemed to be a weak pump.
I've installed around 50 fmu tuned low boost setups and never had much issue. Air to air intercooler would probably be easier too if ya planned to drive it.
Did you put oil in the supercharger gears? It comes with no oil from china, It's specified in the manual
yes-the damaged was caused by running excess blower speed on the LS flow test
@@richardholdener1727 damn... I was thinking about putting One of those on a 92 fiat panda 4x4, but running at around 6-7 psi, so i think it shouldn't explode at those pressures!
Was that the air filter cover or the Millennium Falcon?
it did do the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs
Try an eaton m90 or 62!
I have seen a previous test of these cheap blowers and it lasted less than five minutes being driven on the street. the rotors inside the blower are plastic coated and die within 5 minutes of being used. They are a joke?
Hello,what do you think about this water to air intercooler ? quality and coolig efficent ? im loking fore replacement fore my crv 2.2icdti.
It works, we will do more actual testing to measure pressure and temp drop
Not sure why I like this video , BUT I DO ! looking forward to more R.
it is weird
Kind of a common problem with those blower, it's a bit of a russian roulette with their reliability, some survive, some dies fast...
And yeah, replace those flanges, they are freaking crap!
As i said before, with a good setup, and a good amr you can make 140 crankhp, maybe not on that engine though, our base engine was making around 90hp
Might be wicked cool to take the junk AMR500 and 3D print new rotors for it, only convert it into a Lysholm/twin-screw supercharger - I bet that little engine would *love* the higher efficiency
good luck printing twin-screw rotors
Do you think the afr problem is from bypassing the OEM narrow band O2?
I don't think WOT is closed loop and we didn't have an issue with the nitrous. Positive pressure and 100+ kpa map reading at idle is likely the issue for idle quality
You’re going to need a longer water hose when you take it on the road rip. 😅
you think i can add this on my turbodiesel? i have a toyota turbodiesel engine. you think it will add atleast 20 hp?
it can support 150 hp
*FIFTY FIVE FOOT POUNDS BOYS* !!!
Cool vid, Richard.
Chilly bomb whats that a air to water intercooler
CHILLY BOMB IS ATW INTERCOOLER
Do this test on a Suzuki Sidekick.