i can tell that you have done this before this shits clean af, thanks for these videos they are tremendously educational and helping me with my yz125 rebuild
Thanks man. Yeah I kinda noticed that too. I watched another build where they didn't even show the transmission being put back in and I was like hey thats the harder part, that needs to be included lol.
Totally stick with the 100 90 19. Even stank dog on gypsy tales said it looses like 2hp with the larger tire. Just too much tire for the 125. The yz125 likes to stay light on its toes
@@UpAllNight91 if you had to pick wiseco or hotrods? LOL I'd rather have OEM in it, but I'm rebuilding the motor to sell it, I just dont really have anywhere to ride anymore. Been wanting to get a R1.. It is a nice 04 model though. If I cant get what i want for it, I might just hold on to it.
@@kdcustoms1272 Hmm, tough call. Really tough call. They seem to be built about the same overall. Gosh I really cant say. Maybe whichever you can get the cheapest?
Hi, Your crank runout testing is kind of invalid to me. You are measuring the runout practically where you are supporting the crank and hence will show a very low runout. The method is to support each end on centres and measure the runout on the bearing surfaces. Cheers
Yes, I have seen them checked that way before, usually by guys who just pressed the crank together with a new rod and bearing.. What I'm doing is more of just checking and if needed making minor corrections.
Dude, the way you hammered in the main bearings and is a casing. That's just fine. Everybody does it that way just about now? If you're having a hard time getting them in there, then you might want to get something that's bigger than the bearing to put Uber it and smack that instead of the bearing but if they're going in and easy the way you did it is just fine. I also heard you say that you want to be careful because you don't want to have to get back in this motor again. Well, if you don't want to get back in it again, why aren't you replacing the rest of the bearings and why aren't you replacing the water pump seals? Cause you're gonna end up having to go back in there if you don't. Easy insurance if you replace all the bearings and all the seals dont half ass it.I hate a half assed done job.
Hello. The bearings I replaced are the ones that I only ever see go bad for the most part. The crank bearings and the counter shaft bearing behind the front sprocket. The other transmission bearings I never see go bad for the most part. Unless someone snaps a shaft or something crazy them other bearings can last forever. The water pump is not anything I worry about either because thats always a easy job, just removing the clutch cover. When I mentioned I didnt want to go back into the motor for a long time I was referring to actually splitting the cases. This motor has since had a hard 65 hours put on it and its been great. I did this job based on my experience and what I have seen throughout the years. I have probably over 1000 motors under my belt, this is surely not my first
I have also never cracked a case using a hammer. I believe my press is more likely to crack cases though. So I avoid using my press unless its absolutely needed
i can tell that you have done this before this shits clean af, thanks for these videos they are tremendously educational and helping me with my yz125 rebuild
Thanks, and your welcome! Glad to hear they have helped 👍
I love that you use basic tools so many people don’t have the right tool for every job 😂🤙🏻
Great video bro! I appreciate the info. Nobody ever talks about actually getting everything together. Good job
Thanks bro
Thanks man. Yeah I kinda noticed that too. I watched another build where they didn't even show the transmission being put back in and I was like hey thats the harder part, that needs to be included lol.
@2:27 SH means special heat treatment from koyo catalog
Ahh thanks so much. I searched everywhere trying to figure that out. Now I know. Thanks for sharing this with me!
Quick question what tyre size do you have for the yz125 I’m thinking of getting 110/90/19 or 120/80/19 or should I stick with the 100/90/19 🤙🏻
Totally stick with the 100 90 19. Even stank dog on gypsy tales said it looses like 2hp with the larger tire. Just too much tire for the 125. The yz125 likes to stay light on its toes
Nice one cheers 🤙🏻
@@jojokarli thanks!
Maybe i missed it but what crank did you use, OEM? You have any experience with hotrods or wiseco cranks?
Ahh I see at the end.. OEM
Yes sir! OEM. I have installed hot rods and wisecos for others but I prefer OEM myself. Mainly because the quality control is better.
@@UpAllNight91 if you had to pick wiseco or hotrods? LOL
I'd rather have OEM in it, but I'm rebuilding the motor to sell it, I just dont really have anywhere to ride anymore. Been wanting to get a R1.. It is a nice 04 model though. If I cant get what i want for it, I might just hold on to it.
@@kdcustoms1272 Hmm, tough call. Really tough call. They seem to be built about the same overall. Gosh I really cant say. Maybe whichever you can get the cheapest?
Hi, Your crank runout testing is kind of invalid to me. You are measuring the runout practically where you are supporting the crank and hence will show a very low runout. The method is to support each end on centres and measure the runout on the bearing surfaces. Cheers
Yes, I have seen them checked that way before, usually by guys who just pressed the crank together with a new rod and bearing.. What I'm doing is more of just checking and if needed making minor corrections.
Dude, the way you hammered in the main bearings and is a casing. That's just fine. Everybody does it that way just about now? If you're having a hard time getting them in there, then you might want to get something that's bigger than the bearing to put Uber it and smack that instead of the bearing but if they're going in and easy the way you did it is just fine. I also heard you say that you want to be careful because you don't want to have to get back in this motor again. Well, if you don't want to get back in it again, why aren't you replacing the rest of the bearings and why aren't you replacing the water pump seals? Cause you're gonna end up having to go back in there if you don't. Easy insurance if you replace all the bearings and all the seals dont half ass it.I hate a half assed done job.
Hello. The bearings I replaced are the ones that I only ever see go bad for the most part. The crank bearings and the counter shaft bearing behind the front sprocket. The other transmission bearings I never see go bad for the most part. Unless someone snaps a shaft or something crazy them other bearings can last forever. The water pump is not anything I worry about either because thats always a easy job, just removing the clutch cover. When I mentioned I didnt want to go back into the motor for a long time I was referring to actually splitting the cases. This motor has since had a hard 65 hours put on it and its been great. I did this job based on my experience and what I have seen throughout the years. I have probably over 1000 motors under my belt, this is surely not my first
I have also never cracked a case using a hammer. I believe my press is more likely to crack cases though. So I avoid using my press unless its absolutely needed