1:11
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Part 2 on my very own YZ250, front and center. Full motor rebuild for the most part.
Link to part 1 on this build • 1:11 YZ250 Full 2 Stro...
Link to another YZ250 rebuild where I removed the crank and crank bearings without a press • 1:11 (Part 2) YZ250 2 ...
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Thanks for watching!
upallnight91@hotmail.com
I know what you mean by working with experience, I use a hammer and rubber mallet per removal/ installation 💪💪👌
Right on!
Wow dude you hammered those main bearings.... Those are the worst heat spots i've ever seen on a crank...
I totally agree with you about the impact. When taking off the flying wheel nut, the impact is the only intelligent way to do it. Because it's way less invasive on the motor it doesn't stress anything. You're not taking a chance on breaking or binding anything?
It just loosens the nut up. You know, without any screen? On the crank itself.I don't know why more people don't do it that way. But anyway good on you for using an impact to take the flywheel met off I would do the other side of the crank the same way when you take the nut that holds the main gear that spends the clutch basket off.
Yeah, if your talking about the heat spot around the lower connecting rod area, thats normal from the factory when they heat the crank to slide in the pin. They come like that new.
Nice, I’m redoing my bottom end. I bought Wiseco kit. After putting everything together Im ending up with two extra oil seals , one small, and one that fits crankshaft but there is already one installed and one o-ring
Yeah sometimes them kits come with some extra stuff thats not really needed.
@@UpAllNight91 Thanks dude I figured, great video I put everything together
@@SuperLozzman right on!
Dude this is awesome, great work. Wish this video was out a year ago when I split my cases. Went riding last weak with my modded head from your video. There's a loop I like to do that I can never break the 30 minute mark on, beat my record by a whole 1.5 minutes. It just pulls so much better I actually geared up on my sprockets! On the moto track, revs out so clean and torquey, I have to shift way less!! 172 main was perfect!!
Oh man thats too cool. Yeah 172 surely been sweet for me too. Yeah clean, I like that clean feeling. I feel this motor has ever more to offer, like the upper reed stop blocks like 50$ of the center boost port. Think vforce 3 will fix that.
@@UpAllNight91 50%?, I'm running the rad valve, it's has that sorta 2 layer approach to opening, haven't tried the v force but with double the reeds it's seems like it would at least be more responsive. Also notice that they sell the vforce through gytr and the new ktms basically have copied there design. For whatever that's worth
@@barkeep25 The rad valve also doesn't have the reed stops that would be partially blocking that center boost port. I would like to try both the rad vs the vforce but only have the funds for one or the other right now. But maybe down the road I will snag up a rad valve and stack it against the vforce.
Keep making these man they are the best! I keep watching the video all the way through haha
LoL. Too cool! Yes sir will be finishing this motor this week. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video 👍 Can you confirm if I can do a crank and main bearings replacement without removing the transmission?
Thanks. You can replace the crank and bearings after splitting the cases while leaving the transmission on the right side case. Yes. I only remove the transmission from the right case if the trans need work.
@@UpAllNight91 thanks a lot 👌
@@Champ54 Yes Sir!
Hello mate :) Perfect timing of this video! I brought a yz 250 2020 off your recommendation from your review a while back ( yz vs the ktm) :). I came off a rmz 250f. I Absolutely love the yz, a proper Swiss army knife of a bike, it does everything :)
I've put 92 hours on it total and the crank has just this weekend expired 🙈 the plastic stuffers have melted by the looks. We Should have done the bottom end earlier but we were looking to do a long term test see how far it could go. 😅 Guess we found the limit 🤣
Anyways thankyou for the content you put out. It has Really helped me out and Im sure countless others 😁 keep up the good work 💪🇬🇧🇺🇸
Ahh man thats too awesome man!!! Sorry about the burnt crank. How many hours did you get on the crank total (i know you said 92 but was that just you or is that previous own included) do you know? I should be buttoning up the bottom end and putting the motor back in within a few days and will post up the videos for that. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. I stumbled into a issue which I will address in the video (dropped the new crank and totally knocked it off true :( but she will run again!
Ahh that's no problem mate credit where its due :) look forward to seeing your bike back together..
So I brought the bike pretty much brand new in 2020.. it had 30 mins on it.
And since then it's done 92 hours on the same crank / bottom end.
It's had 4 pistons if you include the factory one..
We did have one defect on the 1st piston change ,the actuall barrel cracked down one of the powevalve sleeves into the exhaust port? If you've seen that before ?
The only other slight gripe was hitting a few false neutrals now and again. But seeing your spring mod I think you got the solution for us 😁
Other than that she has been flawless! :D.
Nice! My brother just did a top end on a 2015 that had been sitting for years with only 30 hours on it, he found a crack exactly where you described. He was pretty bummed about that and doesn't know what caused it. He searched the net and there doesn't seem to be any real answers. Seems that if they are going to crack at that location they do it early on with lower hours. Yeah that shift spring mod surely does the trick on the false neutrals. Before the mod i had to shift carefully and not rush it. Since the mod I can rush through shifts fast with no issues. I've maybe caught like 1 or 2 false neutrals in about 80 hours of run time since the mod, which is reasonable enough and a huge improvement. And the ability to slip fast shifts in is a welcomed benefit. Vforce 3 has arrived, and some cross buffs for a little exhaust port polishing... just waiting for the new crankshaft to arrive tomorrow and I can button her up. Looking for to getting back on the 250 and see if I can find more and better power out of her than she was already providing.
@@UpAllNight91 Exellent stuff! I did put it on a face book forum and the general consensus was that it was a manufacturing defect during casting?
Your bike Is gunna be tight as a drum when your done with it ! 😁 look forward to seeing the end results.:) Also one other thing that would be cool to see you test is a G.e.t ignition system? I know the fantic ones come stock with them.
@@sbam4152 thanks man! Taking her out today for the first run. Excited to see how she does. A aftermarket ignition would surely be interesting to test. I agree I think it is possibly a casting flaw that pops up after a few good heat cycles. Just kinda sucka cause new cylinders are like 700 bucks ya know
Can you like that puller tool? Great video
Thanks. Im sorry, are you asking for a link to the flywheel puller?
@@UpAllNight91 the reverse thread fly puller, thanks man.
@@timwittenborn3437 here is a link to one. www.amazon.com/Flywheel-Magneto-Stator-Puller-Yamaha/dp/B07F5C3FGT
Hi mate have you ever tried to turn the cylinder so the carb is out the front exhaust out the back? is it possible.
Hello. Haven't tried, but I don't think it would work . Well maybe if you can figure out a way to actuate the power valve and stuff. Would be a lot of work though
Where do you live? Will you rebuild mine?
I'm in Parrish Florida. Where are you located?