Damn good work, I like the real details you speak about. That others, or me do not think about when replacing parts. I myself own a 2004 Toyota Tundra double cab bought new in 2004. I need to do those things for my Tundra as well. Truck runs as good as the day I purchased it. 335,000 miles.
Don't no, where you are from, but if you were in Alabama, I would bring my Tundra to you... It's always good to see someone who takes pride in their work. Thanks for the pointers.
Idk about banging on the nut and tie rod, I did that when I was starting too. Hitting the knuckle once for twice with the second hammer will usually do the trick. Hit it where the bj is and it will usually break apart. Pickle fork works… there’s a ball joint separator tool too. I only hit the tie rod or nut when I’m planning on changing them for sure.
Well look at this guy! Hey Gary! Been a minute. Can’t remember if I told you or not. Got an 06 DC limited during covid! Putting my 6112’s 5160’s and JBA’s on next week. Come by the office in a few weeks we can chat! Wheels and tires coming soon as well!
Great video! Im in the process of purchasing all the parts needed to level lift my 05 4dr tundra so its nice to get a heads up on what to expect when it comes time to disassembling and reassembling the front suspension.
Thanks for watching! If you are removing the upper ball joint from the spindle make sure to buy or rent a decent kit. I rented free from Advance but I had to make sure all the parts were there and undamaged.
I’ve had my tundra lifted for a while now it’s a 2004 limited 4x4. I say lifted its leveled on 33/12.50s the trucks been paid and paid for itself time and time again I love it it will never go anywhere. Well my wife gave me the go ahead to build it how I want lol. Man oh man have I been shopping and it’s almost impossible to find a lift for this thing. I want it higher looking for a 6 to 8 inch lift and wanting to run 35s or 37s you don’t see a lot of these trucks done from top to bottom and I’m tired of looking at all the new f150s rams and chevys all built. Cause I can promise one thing if they were to drive this year tundra and work out if they wouldn’t drive nothing else man talk about a work horse and almost bullet proof from the factory. So I wish you luck on your endeavors friend.
Hi, I did a 2.5" lift and I'm getting vibration. I did a diff drop and carrier bearing drop and still have some vibration. Have you had these issues? Thanks
Could be a few things depending upon your situation and unique facts. Big factors are wheels and tires. Problems such as out of round/scalloped. Mis-alignment and out of balance, and uneven tire pressure. Drivetrain issues can also be at play. A ding in the driveshaft can change the balance and changing its geometry can also certainly affect it. I recommend looking at the Tundra and Tacoma forums for a possible fix. I have heard of using shims and washers, but I have not done that.
Thanks for the tips! Don't know if you'll see this but... are those Falken Wildpeak A/T3W? How are you liking them so far? Looking for some new tires for my 03 Tundra and they have a nice price.
I'd definitely appreciate it. It's hard finding good info on 1st gen Tundra mods. I wish I could afford all of the control arms and popular shocks just to put them in a head-to-head comparison video
thanks for the video! very helpful - did you happen to have any issues regarding the control arm (JBA UCA) bolt diameter? It appears mine has some play as it is a smaller diameter
You have the high torque. Yours should have no problem with the ball joint press. Mine is the mid-grade. I have since picked up the high torque Milwaukee which is comparable to yours.
About how much lift were you able to get outta that coilover setup? I know those aren't cheap, TOYTEC never is. My '06 D.C. 4X4 is still at stock specs and been rakin my brain on which setup (refuse to use spacers) I should go with. Plus, of course having to swap UCA's as well is a brain teaser too.... like some of the others said our choices are limited on lift kits unless you wanna make the damn thing more or less a ground pounder (which mine is NOT NOR WILL IT "EVER" BE). Damn spacers are more or less just a cheap body lift. Anyhow, hows your experience with those coilovers, and do you have any rubbing issues with the size tire you went with or are they stock sizing?🤔
Good questions. This setup will give you 3" at the top. With the tires I have it is an extra 4" total. The tires I have rub a little, so if I had to do it over I would go with a tire size of 295/65/18. Even better with 17" wheels.
You got 3" lift in the front with the toytec coil over's. How is the ride over rippled type dirt roads. I have 5100's on the front of my 06 with stock springs set at the uppest notch on the shock body and they just beat you to death on the type of terrain I asked about even at very slow speeds
The rod tip in the video is handy and you will want a quality ball joint remover and impact. Make sure the ball joint tool is lined up properly and take your time on that step. Otherwise, the replacement is straightforward.
I ordered the parts direct from the manufacturer/dealer. Toytec for the coilovers and JBA Offroad for the upper A arms. You will want a small block (1 inch) or better yet, a leaf spring helper for the rear. I am running Bilstein 5100s in the rear, bought from RockAuto. Links for Toytec and JBA are in the video description.
@@gdupler1966 Honestly I don't know if I got a bad batch of Milwaukee impacts or not because the Ridgid 3/8 and 1/2 are way better in everyway except size/heaviness. The different mode switch is also a plus instead of relying on how much trigger to pull, but I guess that comes down to personal preference. Try putting the 4.0 battery on the 1/2.
@@Mattschindig I will try the 4.0, as I am curious now. Were your Milwaukees fuel or brushed? I recently bought a 1/2 fuel and it does well, but I can see the brushed being less effective.
I have a post on the channel with a pic, but it is not a side shot so won't show much. It may take a little while, working on a CV boot right now, but I will post some more pics and shoot an upcoming video.
Good questions! If my truck were offroad only, a more expensive coilover (like King) and perhaps a uniball UCA, but I am a "weekend warrior" with regular street driving and I wanted the lower maintenance JBA ball joint. As stated in the video, I am not crazy about the Toytec top hat and the bolts supplied, or lack thereof, and if I had it to do over, would give more consideration to King/Fox/Icon, etc.
Damn good work, I like the real details you speak about. That others, or me do not think about when replacing parts. I myself own a 2004 Toyota Tundra double cab bought new in 2004. I need to do those things for my Tundra as well. Truck runs as good as the day I purchased it. 335,000 miles.
Thank's for explaining the issues that a lot of people fail to address.
Thank you! It is my way of giving back for the help I have been given from UA-cam creators.
Nice thanks for the tips! I’m mechanically inclined. Done plenty of car work, videos like this are still helpful! Great video!
Thanks! Sharing experience sure can make the job easier and I have learned plenty from others on and off youtube.
Don't no, where you are from, but if you were in Alabama, I would bring my Tundra to you... It's always good to see someone who takes pride in their work. Thanks for the pointers.
Thanks! I try to repair/replace the right way. If it is wrong, I have no one to blame but myself.
Idk about banging on the nut and tie rod, I did that when I was starting too. Hitting the knuckle once for twice with the second hammer will usually do the trick. Hit it where the bj is and it will usually break apart. Pickle fork works… there’s a ball joint separator tool too. I only hit the tie rod or nut when I’m planning on changing them for sure.
Well look at this guy! Hey Gary! Been a minute. Can’t remember if I told you or not. Got an 06 DC limited during covid! Putting my 6112’s 5160’s and JBA’s on next week. Come by the office in a few weeks we can chat! Wheels and tires coming soon as well!
Yes, I would like to see it! Let me know when is a good day to meet!
Great video! Im in the process of purchasing all the parts needed to level lift my 05 4dr tundra so its nice to get a heads up on what to expect when it comes time to disassembling and reassembling the front suspension.
Thanks for watching! If you are removing the upper ball joint from the spindle make sure to buy or rent a decent kit. I rented free from Advance but I had to make sure all the parts were there and undamaged.
I’ve had my tundra lifted for a while now it’s a 2004 limited 4x4. I say lifted its leveled on 33/12.50s the trucks been paid and paid for itself time and time again I love it it will never go anywhere. Well my wife gave me the go ahead to build it how I want lol. Man oh man have I been shopping and it’s almost impossible to find a lift for this thing. I want it higher looking for a 6 to 8 inch lift and wanting to run 35s or 37s you don’t see a lot of these trucks done from top to bottom and I’m tired of looking at all the new f150s rams and chevys all built. Cause I can promise one thing if they were to drive this year tundra and work out if they wouldn’t drive nothing else man talk about a work horse and almost bullet proof from the factory. So I wish you luck on your endeavors friend.
Thanks, and well wishes to you too! You are right that it is hard to find a higher lift for these trucks. 2007 and above, much more availability.
I run 35s on my first gen tundra I swapped coilovers from a 3rd gen 4runner
Hi, I did a 2.5" lift and I'm getting vibration. I did a diff drop and carrier bearing drop and still have some vibration. Have you had these issues? Thanks
Could be a few things depending upon your situation and unique facts. Big factors are wheels and tires. Problems such as out of round/scalloped. Mis-alignment and out of balance, and uneven tire pressure.
Drivetrain issues can also be at play. A ding in the driveshaft can change the balance and changing its geometry can also certainly affect it. I recommend looking at the Tundra and Tacoma forums for a possible fix. I have heard of using shims and washers, but I have not done that.
I really appreciate your video!
Since you replaced the upper control arm, could you have cut off the OEM long bolt instead of moving the lines?
Thanks for the tips! Don't know if you'll see this but... are those Falken Wildpeak A/T3W? How are you liking them so far? Looking for some new tires for my 03 Tundra and they have a nice price.
They seem to be wearing well. They do have some road whine. More than the Terra Grapplers I had before but less than others, like Goodyear.
Those toytec coilovers, what bilstein shocks are those? And how’s the ride quality, thinking about this same exact setup
I have the same rigid torque wrench ,i Love it !
It works well for a lot of applications!
Can you maybe do a walk-around of your truck and maybe share some thoughts and opinions on your tire/steering/suspension setup??
An excellent idea and I will work on that since you asked. I have had mostly good experiences, but some poor and it should be informative.
I'd definitely appreciate it. It's hard finding good info on 1st gen Tundra mods. I wish I could afford all of the control arms and popular shocks just to put them in a head-to-head comparison video
thanks for the video! very helpful - did you happen to have any issues regarding the control arm (JBA UCA) bolt diameter? It appears mine has some play as it is a smaller diameter
That is a good question, I will have to check. You are talking about the long bolt with the bushings on either side, correct?
Not sure which rigid you have, but my is 1500 ftp and is currently the strongest on the market
You have the high torque. Yours should have no problem with the ball joint press. Mine is the mid-grade. I have since picked up the high torque Milwaukee which is comparable to yours.
About how much lift were you able to get outta that coilover setup?
I know those aren't cheap, TOYTEC never is. My '06 D.C. 4X4 is still at stock specs and been rakin my brain on which setup (refuse to use spacers) I should go with. Plus, of course having to swap UCA's as well is a brain teaser too.... like some of the others said our choices are limited on lift kits unless you wanna make the damn thing more or less a ground pounder (which mine is NOT NOR WILL IT "EVER" BE). Damn spacers are more or less just a cheap body lift. Anyhow, hows your experience with those coilovers, and do you have any rubbing issues with the size tire you went with or are they stock sizing?🤔
Good questions. This setup will give you 3" at the top. With the tires I have it is an extra 4" total. The tires I have rub a little, so if I had to do it over I would go with a tire size of 295/65/18. Even better with 17" wheels.
You got 3" lift in the front with the toytec coil over's. How is the ride over rippled type dirt roads. I have 5100's on the front of my 06 with stock springs set at the uppest notch on the shock body and they just beat you to death on the type of terrain I asked about even at very slow speeds
How difficult was the UCA’s? I have a first gen tundra and I’m about to order the JBA UCA’s
The rod tip in the video is handy and you will want a quality ball joint remover and impact. Make sure the ball joint tool is lined up properly and take your time on that step. Otherwise, the replacement is straightforward.
Where did you find your lift kit? I'm looking for a lift kit for my Gen 1 Tundra. Thanks!
I ordered the parts direct from the manufacturer/dealer. Toytec for the coilovers and JBA Offroad for the upper A arms. You will want a small block (1 inch) or better yet, a leaf spring helper for the rear. I am running Bilstein 5100s in the rear, bought from RockAuto. Links for Toytec and JBA are in the video description.
How does it ride ? Smooth ir a little on the stiff side ?
It has been smooth overall. Certainly not stiffer than stock and feels a little better. More insulated is probably the best way to describe the setup.
That Ridgid is only a mid-torque. They make a high torque as well as Milwaukee and DeWalt
True. The high torque would be the choice for the ball joints.
How many inches of lift does the cool over add?
It is rated up to 3 inches.
I would advise against anything Moog there are lots of QC and build issues regarding their parts.
Moog certainly isn't as good as they used to be. The ones in the video are holding up so far, but I did treat them and paint them due to surface rust.
If you put a bigger battery on the 1/2 Ridgid it will be twice as powerful.
Interesting. I know some batteries work better in Milwaukee than others. I will have to try that on the Ridgid.
@@gdupler1966 Honestly I don't know if I got a bad batch of Milwaukee impacts or not because the Ridgid 3/8 and 1/2 are way better in everyway except size/heaviness. The different mode switch is also a plus instead of relying on how much trigger to pull, but I guess that comes down to personal preference. Try putting the 4.0 battery on the 1/2.
@@Mattschindig I will try the 4.0, as I am curious now. Were your Milwaukees fuel or brushed? I recently bought a 1/2 fuel and it does well, but I can see the brushed being less effective.
Need more Milwaukee tools!
Thanks! I have a few of those too.
Do you have pics of your pickup or like an Instagram? I’d like to see how your pickup sits
I have a post on the channel with a pic, but it is not a side shot so won't show much. It may take a little while, working on a CV boot right now, but I will post some more pics and shoot an upcoming video.
It currently sits right at 1/2" higher in the rear.
@@gdupler1966 ok thanks I see it, it looks good. Mine has the leveling kit but could use a suspension update
@@derekkygar373 Thanks! The A arms and the coilovers make an effective on and off road ride.
Lol don’t need the lean shim with adjustable coils..
That is true! Toytec didn't mention that... However, I have pushed the adjustability to the max, so it is good to have.
@@gdupler1966 correct, if they are at their max setting, then you would need the spacer. I have the Toytec Boss 2.0 coilovers
@@Steven-gv1ke do you like the 2.0's? Are they lightweight?
Just smack the fuck out of the tie rod seat... (Spindle or in this case ball joint housing)... 4 or 5 good snacks with a BFH, it'll pop right out
What the hell is a A arm????!!!
Why Jba why toytec 🥴 you’ll need a new spindle soon calling it
Good questions! If my truck were offroad only, a more expensive coilover (like King) and perhaps a uniball UCA, but I am a "weekend warrior" with regular street driving and I wanted the lower maintenance JBA ball joint. As stated in the video, I am not crazy about the Toytec top hat and the bolts supplied, or lack thereof, and if I had it to do over, would give more consideration to King/Fox/Icon, etc.
@@gdupler1966 good response. Makes sense
@@ToyotaNutjob Thanks! Hope my experience helps others trying to find that sweet spot of price and performance.
“A-arm” 🫨