So true bro, I rather the old fashion type ice machine wotk like a old 1989 Toyota corilla even when the body is gone the main working componients are still kicking
Manitowoc's numbers are based on an 1/8" bridge thickness. If you go to a training they give you the field service manual for the model your being trained on.
Really like your play-by-play in your videos, excellent job again. I might have to invest in an H10, haven't used one in 20 years. Nice to have several options for leak checking, keeps the stress levels down.
It seems bizarre associating an air conditioning refrigerant with the cold required for refrigeration, but I guess it still makes sense since we can have frozen up coils in air conditioning with a lack of air flow. So for the sake of making ice, it doesn't seem all that weird after all.
R-410A on a self contained ice machine great job Manitowoc 😀🙄😬. I’ve repaired several leaks on Manitowocs ,Koolaire units bad design for self contained units taking in consideration that not all customers are on top of their PMs just imagine what the head pressure will be on a self contained unit with a clogged condenser 😂🤣😆🥹. Good video 👍🏼
If you ever get a chance go online and check out the Supco TPC 8000 pipe clamp meter. It has so many refrigerants and a P/T chart included. They are kinda hard to find but they're pretty handy.
have you ever had a manitowoc ice machine where it works fine for 6 7 hours and then suddenly it just turns off and u have to turn it on manually ? thank you for you're time
I have been using the H-10 for over 40 years it has always been my number one leak detector I have owned 20+ different manufactures leak detectors.? But they finally manufactured a leak detector that is as good and may be a little better for HCFCs and HFC oh refrigerants the DeTek Infocon Stratus H 10 is still my first to go leak detector for R 12 in R 22
@@REFRIGERATIONKITCHENEQTECH same sensor but you have to go in the manual and read and learn about the manual mode and the difference between the automatic. The H 10 is a superior CFC refrigerant detecting heated diode technology still as of this date for the price point inside such a small battery operated package With infrared technology using the optical sensor you can get thrown off in full yourself by saturating the sensor during the time you’re looking for the leak and you hold it there too long it’s south and recalibrates to that higher level well you’re looking for the leak you have to understand the logic how infrared works. And if you stay there too long in the saturated area it will re-calibrate taking into account the ambient refrigerant in the air and zero it out making you think it’s hard and you can’t find a leak. On the other hand I heated dialed will not do that if you have it in manual mode and properly adjusted it will keep continuously screaming telling you there’s refrigerant around You have to take the detect and put it into manual mode and it tries to more simulate the operation of a heated diode leak detector with its infrared optical sensor. And with the infrared and like all leak detectors it’s important to get away from the refrigerant source and zero it outside of the area before returning to the suspected leak area. But it is so nice having that screen with the parts per million that sometimes will show one or two or 3 ppm before it ever starts increasing the beeping or sound level rate as a visual indicator in cloud hunting mode. Both leak detectors have their advantages this is why it should be considered mandatory to own a H 10 and a DeTek heated diode and infrared. I’ve posted videos where one works better than the other in one scenario and then in another scenario the other one works better it all depends on the scenario and I’ve posted videos were neither have found a leak but maybe the ultrasonic found a leak or maybe the UV die found a leak and no leak detector found a leak sometimes bubbles win. Not all leaks are constant not all leaks happen at a standing pressure Some leaks happen five or 10 minutes later after you turn the unit on in a certain temperature a certain pressure or a certain vibration is set up that causes the leak to start leaking And then when you turn off the system the test and have the fans off the air is not blowing the leak stops. Leak detection is a art on its own.
Thanks for the detailed explanation! Yes I’ve found sometimes one works better than the other. I most only work on R404 and R134 and find the H10 is just a little more sensitive so it has been better so far on the very small leaks.
Dude, you still alive? Feel like I stumbled on gold when I found your channel. Hands down best refrigeration tech on UA-cam.
Lol, hoping to start making videos again this weekend
Great job. I've noticed that those new Manitowoc ice machines are having some problems while still under warranty. Especially control board and leak.
That’s not good, especially with the shortage of parts
So true bro, I rather the old fashion type ice machine wotk like a old 1989 Toyota corilla even when the body is gone the main working componients are still kicking
Manitowoc's numbers are based on an 1/8" bridge thickness. If you go to a training they give you the field service manual for the model your being trained on.
H 10 saved the day good work tech
👍
Really like your play-by-play in your videos, excellent job again. I might have to invest in an H10, haven't used one in 20 years. Nice to have several options for leak checking, keeps the stress levels down.
It’s one of the hardest parts of the job, and in the last month since I’ve had it, it has made my job easier and quicker.
Another excellent video 👍👍👍
👍
awesome play by play i have the same tools and i had to figure out t3 & t4 12* diff by adding more 410 and got it producing ice without the E7 code.
Hi. Are you still around? Missing your hot side videos? They are supper educational and fan to watch! Do not quit on us❤
Great job!I've never seen 410 a in an ice machine before. Looks like it does a good job
Ya it’s odd seeing R410 in refrigeration
It seems bizarre associating an air conditioning refrigerant with the cold required for refrigeration, but I guess it still makes sense since we can have frozen up coils in air conditioning with a lack of air flow. So for the sake of making ice, it doesn't seem all that weird after all.
Very well explained brother
R-410A on a self contained ice machine great job Manitowoc 😀🙄😬. I’ve repaired several leaks on Manitowocs ,Koolaire units bad design for self contained units taking in consideration that not all customers are on top of their PMs just imagine what the head pressure will be on a self contained unit with a clogged condenser 😂🤣😆🥹. Good video 👍🏼
Ya great point, head pressure will become an issue for sure
Luckily they put in a high head switch that will shut it down until you do the PM on it.
Appreciate the videos and the breakdowns keep them cominggggg! thanks brotha
👍
Perfect troubleshooting 👌👍many thanks😊
Nice job Refer tech!
Thanks Steve!
If you ever get a chance go online and check out the Supco TPC 8000 pipe clamp meter. It has so many refrigerants and a P/T chart included. They are kinda hard to find but they're pretty handy.
The H10 for the win 👍
👍 still getting used to it, but it’s been great
id0906a-261 harvest sequence when does water go over evap right away when turned on?
Great explanation
Thanks
You are a Phenom
Lol, just trying to improve day by day
have you ever had a manitowoc ice machine where it works fine for 6 7 hours and then suddenly it just turns off and u have to turn it on manually ? thank you for you're time
Not really, same model?
Hey Anthony, Your subscribers request a new training video. Help us out bud, we miss you.
Lol I will start making some again
👍💪❄️🇺🇸 Flyers vs devils opening night Thursday 🏒
Lol, how the flyers looking this year?
I spotted it at 00:53 seconds
I have been using the H-10 for over 40 years it has always been my number one leak detector I have owned 20+ different manufactures leak detectors.?
But they finally manufactured a leak detector that is as good and may be a little better for HCFCs and HFC oh refrigerants the DeTek Infocon Stratus
H 10 is still my first to go leak detector for R 12 in R 22
I thought the stratus and dtek3 had the same sensor, only difference was the cloud hunting mode.
@@REFRIGERATIONKITCHENEQTECH same sensor but you have to go in the manual and read and learn about the manual mode and the difference between the automatic.
The H 10 is a superior CFC refrigerant detecting heated diode technology still as of this date for the price point inside such a small battery operated package
With infrared technology using the optical sensor you can get thrown off in full yourself by saturating the sensor during the time you’re looking for the leak and you hold it there too long it’s south and recalibrates to that higher level well you’re looking for the leak you have to understand the logic how infrared works.
And if you stay there too long in the saturated area it will re-calibrate taking into account the ambient refrigerant in the air and zero it out making you think it’s hard and you can’t find a leak.
On the other hand I heated dialed will not do that if you have it in manual mode and properly adjusted it will keep continuously screaming telling you there’s refrigerant around
You have to take the detect and put it into manual mode and it tries to more simulate the operation of a heated diode leak detector with its infrared optical sensor.
And with the infrared and like all leak detectors it’s important to get away from the refrigerant source and zero it outside of the area before returning to the suspected leak area.
But it is so nice having that screen with the parts per million that sometimes will show one or two or 3 ppm before it ever starts increasing the beeping or sound level rate as a visual indicator in cloud hunting mode.
Both leak detectors have their advantages this is why it should be considered mandatory to own a H 10 and a DeTek heated diode and infrared.
I’ve posted videos where one works better than the other in one scenario and then in another scenario the other one works better it all depends on the scenario and I’ve posted videos were neither have found a leak but maybe the ultrasonic found a leak or maybe the UV die found a leak and no leak detector found a leak sometimes bubbles win.
Not all leaks are constant not all leaks happen at a standing pressure
Some leaks happen five or 10 minutes later after you turn the unit on in a certain temperature a certain pressure or a certain vibration is set up that causes the leak to start leaking
And then when you turn off the system the test and have the fans off the air is not blowing the leak stops.
Leak detection is a art on its own.
Thanks for the detailed explanation! Yes I’ve found sometimes one works better than the other. I most only work on R404 and R134 and find the H10 is just a little more sensitive so it has been better so far on the very small leaks.