Camchain Tensioner Removal - KTM Duke 390, 125, 200, 250
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- Simple steps to remove the camchain tensioner and refit on the small KTM Duke 390, 125, 200,250.
This is a basic step to allow servicing and to change the rear sprocket
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Cant thanks enough for you david your contributions for the riders especially ktm is so huge! Most of my problem solved through your channel, keep it going and safe rides
Glad to help! Thank you very much, much appreciated
Recently addicted to your channel sir from India ❤️❤️
Welcome and thank you.
Ty sir! Really great instruction vid. Love your warnings about common mistakes, it saves a lot of grueling hours
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, I was wondering how to remove this screw properly. Great tip, will test
Thanks, glad it helped
Gonna try this in the morning, wish me luck!
Good luck!
@@MotoMirius I was successful! Have to remove the radiator in order to get to the cylinder head!
Great vid again David 👍🙏
Thanks again! Much appreciated
Thanks David, I’ve been wondering about how to do this for a long time. You’ve just given me the tricks and confidence to check mine. Great video! 🍻
Glad to help and good luck with it. It's easy enough, just a bit fiddly
@@MotoMirius right now it looks easier then getting the spark plug out. After adding a powertronics unit the harness must be in the way. The wire with extension piece is so long it hits before it will clear the hole. Nothings ever easy.👍
They designed this tensioner on a Friday before a bank holiday Monday . I bet if they really thought about it they could have made it even more awkward to remove !! .
Personally I would have put a slot in the flange at 90 degrees to the central axis on the inner bolt so you could loosen the bolt , insert tensioner and turn anti clockwise thus engaging the slotted flange with the bolt .. then put in the outside bolt as normal and tighten both . But then I'm not an engineer ......
Peace and love brother, great video and I'm sure it's going to help many who would otherwise get in a fix attempting this ..
👍🏻☮❤
They designed this for the older bikes with a throttle cable - that one was easy to remove. I like the idea of the slotted flange, that would work nicely, not so sure about the gasket seal but worth considering! Cheers Springy!
Thanks 👍
No problem 👍
Ktm 390timing chain is it suitable for 250
Great video - very clear instructions! What is the mileage on your Duke and why are you replacing the tensioner? Regards!
Thank you. My bike is quite low mileage, but much depends how hard you push the engine - a bike used for track days might get the head pulled after only a few hundred miles. I will only be changing the tensioner if it needs it, which I hope to check soon, I try to keep at least a couple of bikes on the road at any one time so this keeps getting pushed back.
Hi david, do you think wrapping the exhaust from engine to muffler will make any difference in temperature ?
It will act as an insulator so will help if you are suffering from a hot leg.
Thanks for the info, but do you need to find the Top Dead Center before changing the tensioner? Like we need to do on honda?
No. It's an automatic tensioner so it adjusts all the time.
Quick Question, What Would Be The Repercussions If You Hadnt Tightened The Spring Back After Replacing (The Center Screw)
Not sure I understand your question - but if you leave the camchain tensioner not working properly then you will accelerate wear on the camchain guides and potentially damage the top end of the engine. Which is much the same as fitting a manual tensioner and either not adjusting it properly or not remembering to adjust it on a regular basis.
Can I run rapid bike easy ecu and still remove the db killer on my exhaust it’s a slip on so the cat delete is still there
Yes, you should be fine with that.
Nice and informative vid once again sir. I have 2 question what sizes of torque wrench will i need for all my bike needs, and what is your opinion in outting bigger tires on duke 390? As always ride safe 🍊
Thanks again. You will always need two - a small one for the small fasteners with low torque and a big one which can do up the rear wheel. They don't come in sizes - you need to check the range that each is made to cover and choose two that suit you.
Tyres are a big argument and no one wants to admit being wrong, so fit what you want! If you fit a wider tyre then it still has to fit to the same size rim, so the inner rim gets pinched in - the extra width has to go somewhere, and it depends on the tyre construction, but typically it results in a taller tyre. A taller tyre means the bike will fall into corners faster when you lean it and often has chicken strips because you can't lean it enough over enough to reach the edge of the tread which is being pulled down to the rim. Counter intuitively a narrower tyre will be flatter and can appear to be wider - you will more easily remove the chicken strips because you can actually reach the edge of the tyre when cornering.
my engines slightly knocky, i had it to my local ktm dealer who said it sounded fine however im not convinced, ive just ordered a new tensioner set direct from ktm and am going to have a blast at replacing and see if it makes any difference, once thing you didnt mention, regarding oil. does any oil piss out when removing the tensioner or is it dry and okay to do in situe. thanks again great video and very helpful.
Good luck with that. I didn't mention the oil because none leaks - compare the height of the tensioner to the oil level in the sight glass. If you were concerned you could just lay the bike down as I show in the clutch plate change video where you can take off the whole clutch side cover with no leaks.
@@MotoMirius cheers, that'll do me then, I imagine there to be the odd drop when it's removed but as long as it does pour out I'll manage, I'm ofey with engines I used to ride supermoto/ mx so have have rebuilt built many an engine over the years , just not seen this tensioner design before.
Hi David, my engine make a tick tick noise randomly, not during cold start but it comes and goes randomly when I ride. Some folks suggested it could be due to bad chain tensioner, others suggested to check for valve clearance. Just wanted to check if this sound could be a symptom of chain tensioner? Thank you
It could be either, it could be normal. Check the chain tensioner is working and make sure the swivel cap on the end that pushes on the chain isn't broken or damaged.
@@MotoMirius It's almost certainly the swivel caps teeny weeny pathetic attachment rod made of the nastiest softest metal is on it's way out as will Aswin's engine be following shortly after the rod snaps completely.
Hi! Nice informative video. One question- Do i need to consider getting the chain tensioner to locked position (by rotating clockwise) before removing it? Or can i just remove the tensioner as it is in the position in the engine?
It's recommended that you pull it into the locked position - if you don't it will still be OK, but a little harder to remove.
@@MotoMirius thankyou for the quick response👍( I urgently had to remove the tensioner)
hello when i have mounted my new tensioner and it is in the locked position do i just do a slight turn to unlock it or do i need to fully unscrew it
It's only a small turn needed, but you may feel it release if you have your finger on the tensioner.
@@MotoMirius 1:24 Huge issue with these is the poor quality of the component. That pivoting "helmet" at the end of the tensioner rod uses a very thin low grade metal pin that either totally breaks in half, disintegrates altogether or just flaps around in the breeze until it finally decides to snap off and enter the engine and at the same time there goes your cam chain tension so the chain jumps sprockets, timing is altered and the engine grenades itself via valves into pistons and then a knock on effect to where the engine is destroyed. These 390's are absolute rubbish build quality and are cheaper than the big 4 Japanese 300-400 singles or twins because KTM are Indian junk.
I just put a down payment on the 2021 duke 390 in Canada yesterday and learned today the exhaust is different than previous years and the bike is now heavier. Anyone know if there's any other differences and do you think I should be concerned? I tend to worry to much. I'll probably drill some holes around the baffle and then remove the baffle as David showed in the other vid if I still want it louder. Thank you for the vids David.
The slip on itself is the same unit - they have modified the flange where it fits to the presilencer because it comes in at a different angle. Bike is heavier because of emissions regs, but this is largely because they have added a second cat so the exhaust runs underneath. A tiny bit heavier, a little less ground clearance is about it. Probably runs a little leaner and the cheaper piggybacks no longer work.
@@MotoMirius thank you
When I do this (I bought a manual because that's what others on reddit mentioned was best since it's likely hood to not fail as easy as a automatic) but, do I HAVE to change the gasket.?? My manual one didn't come with a new gasket. Would it be really bad to reuse the one that is already there.? I have a 2015 rc390
Gasket is fine if its intact, but the reality is that it mostly hardens. So yes, you need to buy the gasket - it's assumed you know what you are doing and that you know you need to buy the gasket. If it's not obvious, I'm not a fan of the manual tensioners - just because a bunch of people repeat something they don't understand, doesn't make it right. Manual tensioners are great with a race bike - because race teams include a skilled mechanic. Manufacturers stopped fitting manual tensioners and fitted the more expensive automatic tensioners because so many engines were being destroyed because the manual tensioners weren't being adjusted - :D
@@MotoMirius what are some of the downsides of a manual one.? I have an appointment for a bike mechanic to check out the tensioner but I told him I might cancel the appointment if I can get this one on there. But if it would be better and safer for me to just return the manual one and let them do it I might go that route. Why are they better on race bikes and what makes a daily driver the last suitable for them.?
@@ItsThe675 Downside of the autotensioner is that the roll pin seems to be weak. Replacing the roll pin will fix this. Downside of the manual tensioner is that is manual - so you need to adjust it - too tight or too loose creates engine damage - do you know the correct setting of your tensioner? Typically they don't get adjusted, the tension goes off and the valve timing goes out writing off the head, piston and cylinder. Checking the autotensioner is working is part of the standard service.
It's a bit six of one and half a dozen of the other between manual and auto - but clearly the manufacturers have enough evidence to spend the extra money on auto tensioners - which costs KTM millions of dollars they could save by fitting manual ones. So don't take my word for it - ask yourself why all the bike manufacturers lose millions of dollars of profit by fitting autotensioners.
@MotoMirius yea I'm not sure what the "exact" tightness of it that it needs to be. I've literally just been seeing "tighten it until you feel it touching/resistance then go an other ½ turn" which tbh isn't entirely helpful. At this point I might just return the manual one and have the mechanic do it. I scheduled an appointment for the 21st and told them that, if I can figure it out by then I'll cancel, and if not I'll be there on the 21st lol. So that option is sounding better/easier at this point. The last thing I want to do is cause more damage. The bike is covered under warranty (all moving/ lubricated parts & electrical) so worst case that section of my bike is covered... but still
@MotoMirius I ordered the automatic today. Taking the easier route, and probably safest tbh. Thank you for your input on this situation though.!
Nice explanation👌
Can you pls suggest me which is the best Engine oil for KTM Duke 200... Motul 300V or Shell Advance Ultra 15w50 or Amsoil Metric 15w50 Fully Synthetic and I do stay in more hot whether conditions like in India
Any of the above. There is no such thing as best engine oil - but plenty of people will try to tell you that there is, just like tyres. Use oil from a good manufacturer, make sure it's not fake, especially in India, and check the manufacturer website for what oil they recommend for your bike - most will have a chart. If it's hot try to stick with the higher values so 15w50 not 15w40.
Hi I’ve just got a 2021 duke 390 love the bike but was disappointed to learn that the uk spec does not come with quick shifter + as a option like all other countries, not sure if it possible to get the software for a uk bike ?
None of the bikes come with the software. In all countries, including the UK, it is an upgrade at the Dealer. You have to be sure that you have the model which includes it - there were still older models being sold in 2021.
Hi thanks I’m sure it’s the right model I has the exhaust under the motor which should be the correct bike l think, I’ve been back to the KTM dealership and apparently uk bikes don’t get that opinion?
@@avedisanmahouni5679 Not all dealerships are the same. Part No 94300940000 ktmdirect.co.uk/collections/naked/390-duke+2021+software-enhancements
@@MotoMirius thanks for that I’ll ring another dealer to get it done 🤞
Did you even put the baffle in on the 125 akra or have you left it out, I'm installing one soon but it's got no baffle so idk if to buy one
I did buy one because if you remove the cat and the presilencer it becomes too loud for where I ride without a baffle. Currently I'm running a custom baffle that is a little louder than the Akra one - which works as I now have only a cat delete.
@@MotoMirius yeah I just finished fitting it sounds alright to be honest probably buy one anyway when taking to to mot n things but other than that it's okay because I still have 1st silencer infront
Nice vids as always! just want to ask what are the symptoms of a bad tensioner?
Thanks. You will get more rattling at the top of the engine - it does this anyway, but it gets worse if the camchain is too loose
@@MotoMirius like ticking noices?
@@andreasringen1606 Yes. But some ticking is often normal - the problem is when the ticking gets worse. Mine seems quieter now but maybe that is just because the exhaust is louder?
@@MotoMirius mine has gotten way louder, but only when the engine is warm. So i’m going to check it
@@andreasringen1606 Yes, I would recommend that. Also check if your valve clearances are due for a check
Quick question…does engine need to be at top dead center to change this tensioner?
No, this is an automatic tensioner.
I had replaced the cam chain tensioner due to failure, the original seal got a tear. now i'm having an oil leak on that part. Can i use a liquid gasket and remove the orginal oil seal?
You probably can, but most dealers can supply the gasket. Good luck with that.
Did i need yo change it when my engine seems to rattle quite lot when rammed. I had ktm duke 200 2019, i did like to change it by my own, but I'm quite confuse now because i don't know when or should i need to change it. hoping you could give some advice.
There is no harm in changing it - better to at least check it if you do nothing else, that is why checking it is part of the service schedule (they do fail, as does any engine part).
@@MotoMirius thank you so much for your advice. Right now I'm just wanna to make some preparations before taking a long roads about 244km (about 151 miles), work attics reasons for that. I'm feeling so excited to ride it but at same time kinda anxious not knowing so much when it cames to KTM DUKE 200 maintenances despite using the bike for almost 7 months. The service center too are so far away 😔.
@@jeneralshogun7244 You change it when it needs to be changed - there is no service interval for it. 244km is not a significant distance for the bike.
@@MotoMirius Thanks again, i will take note for that ✨
What's the bike symptoms to know if you have a problem in the tensioner? Thanks 💥💯😊
If the tensioner is failing (or the cam chain is due for replacement) then the slight rattling noise from the top end of the bike will become much louder as the chain gets too loose. This is why removing and inspecting the tensioner is part of the normal service cycle.
Hi I have a Duke 390 2021 and all of the ecu that I am seeing online are until 2020 is there a any I can use those ones on my Duke and it will work fine? I know that power tronics have one but it’s too expensive so one like rapid easy would work it’s a 2021 and the ecu is until 2020
It depends which 2021 model you have. If you have the exhaust along the side of the engine then you have a 2020 type bike. If you have the exhaust under then engine then the 2020 type entry level piggybacks do not work. I think the Fuel X will work and maybe the Easy.
@@MotoMirius so just to be clear if my exhaust is on the side of the engine the rapid bike easy would work even though it’s a 2021 model?
@@theyellowjello5883 If the exhaust runs along the side of the engine you have the older model bike (even if it was made later - check the production date from the chassis number). The latest model has the exhaust running under the engine which allows them to add a second cat to meet the stricter emissions standards - this also came with an updated ECU which means that things like the Boosterplug no longer work
@@MotoMirius thank u so much you are a Duke master
Sir can i ask something please
What if theres oil in the bike and i remove the cam chain tensioner ?
So long as the bike is upright the tensioner is above the oil level. If you do get a leak then just top it up.
Nice video. Also with the throttle body tube ....you need to watch out. My mechanic didn't put the tube in proper and it came loose and dust got it and ceased my engine. Luckily it was within warranty. Also you get a weird induction noise if the tube is loose.
Thanks - it's why I made the point of ensuring that the throttle body is properly seated but it's not just dust - if you have an air leak the engine can run lean, which can also destroy the engine and air gets in easier than dust. But you can equally say the same of the air filter which is much more likely to fail to be seated properly.
@@MotoMirius so you told about air. Would changing stock filter to a high flow be a bad idea ? I was thinking a k&n in future. Right now it's stock. And any clue on the AFR ? Some say let it idle for 15 minutes and it'll auto tune. Some say i need a ECU remap. So it's confusing
@@kevinpinheiro2485 You don't get dust without an air leak - so it's one and the same, you need to make sure it seals.
In theory a high flow filter could let finer particles of dust into the engine - it's a racing application so winning is more important than engine life. Any improvement to air inflow will push the bike towards running lean. ECU should correct with more fuel as it monitors the AFR - but it is likely to have a cap on how much fuel its allowed to add and still meet emissions regs (it assumes a stock setup). My rule of thumb is that one change is OK (unless you live somewhere extreme say high up), so slip on or air filter (not lid) etc. The more more extreme the changes you make, the better the piggyback needs to be. 2017 onwards can't be remapped - its locked down to meet emissions regulations. There are some who claim they can remap it, but there have been some scams here too because how would you know? The new BS6 bikes can't use the basic piggybacks because they don't work.
@@kevinpinheiro2485 On the idling, I think it's not optimal unless the piggyback manufacturer specifies it. It's not something I recommend after fitting upgrade parts.
@@MotoMirius ok got that. I was thinking of going for a piggyback ECU. Either fuelx or race dynamic power tronics. So one looks reliable and another powerful. Both from same company
I’m curious on why you can’t just unscrew the two retaining bolts and pop that little sucker out? Why do you need to retract the spring?
Because then it's not under spring tension as you are undoing the bolts. In this case it probably doesn't matter too much, but it's best practice and avoids risk of damage to the spring as you remove it.
@@MotoMiriusThat makes sense now. Wasn’t even thinking about the pressure it would be putting on the bolts. Appreciate ya as always ✌🏼
Good work David, can I ask why you're replacing this? Did yours fail or are you doing some preventative maintenance?
You asked the question that is on my mind too. Thank you.
I have one as a spare. At some point in the near future I intend to be checking the camchain tension which will tell me if I need to replace or not. This is one of those things that get blown out of proportion when one fails - no one admits to blowing up their engine when they fail to correctly adjust their manual tensioner
@@MotoMirius makes sense mate, I like doing preventative maintenance, if I'm taking the magneto out for example I would check the gear position sensor, on my old bike when I bought it, I did the fork seals because I could see just a tiny bit of oil coming out.
when removing the tensioner, the engine does not go out of time?
If you run the engine with the tensioner removed, then yes you will damage the engine. Don't run the engine with the tensioner removed. If the engine does not run, the engine will not go out of time.
Thank you!!! I appreciate it sir.
@@MotoMirius Genius! Honestly these are rubbish products.
😉👍
Thanks
Hello, im wondering if you can reset an automatic cam chain tensioner in some way?
I hear my cam chain slapping
No, that is the point of it being automatic. Bear in mind some slap is normal, pull it out and check it over. I have seen people with failed roll pin that holds the cap in place. If it doesn't move in and out smoothly as you turn the screw or there is damage then replace it.
@@MotoMirius Thanks for answering. I have this year experienced a lot for misfires, and im hearing my engine is getting louder than Usuall. My bike is only driven 11800km. And my engine is also whining more, im not sure if that is because of the cam chain is loose. So I think the best thing is to buy a new one?
@@plaid1328 When did you last check the valve clearances? If there is wear in the camshafts you will get more noise in the valve train that has nothing to do with the tensioner. Check the tensioner first, because it is easy, and replace it too if that allows you to rule out the tensioner before digging into the engine.
@@MotoMirius I havent checked them, but I had it in to a mechanic at 6500km, and there they discovered I had a broken ECU and a burnt valve, so I would guess they checked the clearence then.
Where can I buy camshaft tensioner ?
Your KTM dealer or any KTM dealer with an online parts store
@@MotoMirius Sure. Have they upgraded this tensioner pivoting bucket with a decent titanium pin or at least a pin made from hardened steel so this would literally never happen? Nope. Same old junk. Bajaj could care less.
If they fail I would hear a rattling from this area correct ?
More often a rattling in the top of the engine
@@MotoMirius Followed by an horrendous catastrophic failure. All for saving $10.00 on a decent pivot pin. Shame on KTM! Sorry. Bajaj. Shame!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
can you make a video of upgrading the camshaft ?