Really good advice. I am 57 and about seven years into woodworking. Would not have happened without UA-cam. Pretty sure most folks have looked at a finished project and said to themselves “ if I did this again I would do it ________ differently”. The process and the learning are what, to me anyways, makes this craft so interesting and enjoyable. Loved the tip with the oversized screw hole to account for wood movement. That one was new to me.
Yeah, that's one of the things I remember most when first watching the UA-cam pros. Everything they did seemed flawless, because they would cover their mistakes. Only when I started watching this channel, and Mike Farrington, did I begin to realize that one of the most important skills of woodworking, is correcting your mistakes. No project will be perfect, but how you recover from a bad cut or drilling, separates the pros from people like myself ;)
I love that last bit… during a project I was working on (and felt like I was failing, badly) a buddy of mine grabbed me by the shoulders, looked me dead in the eyes, and said “ALWAYS remember this… TAN. This Ain’t NASA. This doesn’t need to go to outer space. This isn’t life or death. It can be imperfect and still be great.” I carry this with me, always.
I love it. I'm adding that to my arsenal, including "KISS" for Keep It Simple, Stupid. I'll KISS TAN, now I just need to find a woman who enjoys simple woodworking and a good tan lol. I usually take a quick look at people's channels I comment on, and I hope your shoulder is doing better all these years later. My dad's shoulder is messed up pretty bad right now but he can't afford getting it looked at.
One of the common beginner mistakes when they make things for others is the tendency to point out the mistakes. Trust me, unless they are as experienced as you they won't see them. Keep your mouth closed or just say thank you.
@@a9ball1 Good advice. I'm quite guilty of that - pointing out my mistakes. Most people who look at your work aren't searching for mistakes; they're probably genuinely impressed that you made something.
In a similar vein, I'll say something like, "It's not brain science... or rocket surgery." Same sentiment, but helps those paying attention self-identify.
After retiring, I still have a steady stream of friends, neighbors and family who want custom woodworking pieces. My simple rules: they come to the shop, use my stuff, build their own piece and I assist. Most people agree. So, I have had the pleasure of teaching lots of folks about woodworking. Measuring everything seems to be a big misconception. A neighbor showed up with a tape measure clipped to his belt. After he "whipped it out" a couple dozen times, I took it and hid it from him. Cutting to fit is the most important measurement. Also, I get the comment about tools every time. I explain that my collection is the result of 50 years of woodworking. Another good point you made is the strength of glue. I still haven't figured out a good way to convey trust in glued joints without a home tour demonstrating glue-only joinery. Another very good info-taining video. Thx.
Having gone through this over the past 2 to 3 years, I 100% agree with your points. I'd also add 2 more that I think are important. 1) when you do make the step up to "fixed" tools like a table / miter saw, it's worth investing in a digital calibration set like what Rockler offers and learn to properly calibrate them! It makes a world of difference when the tools are set as good as they can be, not just for quality cuts, but also peace of mind and knowing that if there's a mistake it's a user-error issue that can be fixed through practice and learning. 2) If wanting to use oil based finishes, understanding how to safely dispose of rags!! Since my shop is in my garage, I pretty much only use water based stuff for now to avoid self combusting rags due to user-error. Thanks for all the great info and encouragement!
Bravo on excellent points for beginners. Your advice on buying wood bears repeating in every youtuber's video: cheaper hardwoods and plywood not only look better and go together better; I would also argue they are safer to cut with power tools. I was downright afraid of my table saw when I first started out, and I realize now that my fear was justified: I was running cheap, twisted, construction-grade lumber through it! Now I mostly build projects with poplar and plywood.
12:15 I really like the way that profiled edge looks with a round over on top and chamfer on bottom. It’s like a simple molding. Clean. Effective. Nice.
As someone with decent experience, this is THE channel to watch for beginners to pro. Even with lots of experience, it’s good to come back to someone with so much basic common sense
I also like Wood Working for Mere Mortals. He lives John's message but without the expensive tools in the background. Don't get me wrong I love John's content. This video was great. I just like WWMM's approach as well.
On the other hand, I wish I had started with a combination hand saw, a #4 hand plane, and two chisels. I think the difference is product vs process mindset. Both are perfectly legit, and it's far from binary, but the human tendency online for self isolating subcommunities makes this concept difficult to find.
Love your approach to woodworking. I'm new/old to woodworking as a hobby (started some 30 years ago, raised 4 kids, restarted 2 years ago) and UA-cam has vastly changed my learning curve. I used to buy magazines that kind of explained what I was trying to make and then I'd figure out, and screw up the rest. Your statement about good woodworkers being obsessed with making jigs hit home. Now at 65 years old, I purchased some quality tools, 36" 3hp SawStop vs. Craftsman Construction Saw, but still have my old 8" Delta Jointer and 12" Delta planer (looking to upgrade jointer to a helical head, and probably buy a new planer, old one only 1 speed still works), and my trusty drill press and 5 year old Hercules Miter saw. Got the SawStop because I'm teaching my grandkids how to woodwork so I don't want/need any unplanned missing fingers. There are enough hazards around the shop, so eliminating one help me with my sanity. Your comment about destroying a project in 2 hrs by not putting on a finish properly also hit home, alone with sanding before assembly. I purchased a 3M 6" sander (my arthritic hands thank me) which I love, and it's completely changed my attitude on sanding, I actually enjoy it now ... some what 🙂. BTW, I convinced my wife (of 39 years) to watch the video you did on finishes. I'm making a built in pantry (two base cabinets and 5 shelves) for her with hard maple. We got the maple from a tree my son cut down. I had it cut and kiln dried, we got 587 board feet out of it so plenty of maple to work with. Also got 327 bd feet from a hickory tree my neighbor gave us. Sorry, I digress (I was thinking about your comments on buying boards). Well, she opted for the clear hard wax finish. Easiest by far finish I've ever applied. Thanks for showing her all the options and helping me with finishing this project. As for pocket screws, I just purchased a Kreg 720 pocket hole machine (haven't used it yet), for my upcoming build of a bookcase, more cabinets and a desk for her sewing room. Now if I can get my sore back to cooperate maybe I'll get all these done without killing myself. Love your channel!!!
Yes to agree with your statement "You could find a bookshelf or a coffee table online or in a big box store for less" (Most of the Time) but you will never and I mean NEVER get to the quality of material as you choose what to build with and you are the one building it with pride. We have lost this across ALL walks of skill based working over the last 2 generations. I am just getting started in this adventure of wood working after 50 years of growing up around automotive racing/hobby. It is a bit daunting but no more then if I look back now at the tools and knowledge acquired from cars/trucks, as you also stated...."It's a Marathon not a Sprint"
Pre-sanding batches of like pieces long before assembly… game changer. I’ve actually grown to enjoy sanding with this increase-the-surface-area efficiency. Great tips! Thank you as always.
Nice reset John. Excellent point on making jigs for repeatable tasks. It’s so refreshing to see someone who recognizes that we were all new to woodworking at some point. The main reasons I subscribed is your knowledge, but also your humility. No point elaborating on how you’re a better woodworker, i already know that. I watch your videos to increase my knowledge. It’s harder to learn from makers who are snooty & have invested $30K in tools. Bravo sir. Thanks too for teaming up with two of my other fav. channels to make us even better makers. Suggestion for a topic to cover: making your own finishes from commonly found ingredients (e.g. mixing your own shellac, or turpentine-beeswax-linseed oil).
I recently started woodworking because I have always liked the feel of timber furniture and I need something to do being semi-retired. In my working career I created spreadsheets/databases/FE's and other applications etc and found that I needed to do something where I was creating and woodwork seems to be it. Initially I thought I could do it as a side hustle but it is very difficult to make money but hopefully it will come. I use timber offcuts from a local sawmill instead of the proverbial "Pallet". I now try to make things that suit the size offcuts I get as I have found the re-sawing to smaller size timber for other projects takes a lot of time. Thanks for a great video and yes it sounds like the brushes have worn out in the router, a simple fix.
3:39 OMG this inverse table saw jig is so cool! 🔥 I'll definitely get your guys' course when I start my tiny house project, I love all three of you for different reasons, I'm so glad you collaborated and I'm sure the end result is extremely high value ❤
And people say a level headed response gets no views.. thank you for presenting all the arguments and context behind decisions, not just "rules" that folks should blindly follow
I’m thoroughly enjoying your videos. I’ve built a few random projects, and have always been somewhat handy with tools, but recently got into woodworking seriously. I stumbled across your channel and have been watching your back catalogue whenever I get a chance. Overall you are a good mix of entertaining and educational.
Definitely nailed it when talking about the priority of an assembly table. I can't even count how many Tylenol it took me to learn that assembling projects on the floor was killing me.
If the dewalt has used brushes you should be able to easily check it, most tools have accsible brushes from the outside, so you dont have to disassemble the whole tool, I dont have a dewalt, but my guess would be that if you undo the top cover you will see them.
I cut extra pieces when making raised panel cabinet doors. I ended up using 3 of the 4 "extra" pieces. Great piece of advice. Beats having to duplicate the setup. I've also found that very few people notice mistakes unless I point them out.
I've been away from woodworking due to a divorce and some health issues. Hoping to get a shop set back up after the new year. Found your channel again and this is exactly what i needed. Between you, Tamar, and Stumpy Nubs i feel like I'm coming back home. Thanks for your advice. Will say a prayer. Go do the honey do now!!!
Add on to this: I got sucked into the "Only General Finishes Arrn-R-Seal is a good poly". HOGWASH! I started w/ Minwax Poly, using it as a wipe-on, but then I listened to "them" and I spent a LOT of money on those $28 to $40 quarts of the General Finishes stuff...and it MAY be better, but I sure couldn't see it when I compared it to MinWax poly ($15), thinned down to a wipe-on poly. And That is another part of the expense: Arm-R-Seal is "already thinned"...so it actually is twice the price to begin with!
Buying tools as you need them is indeed one of the key tips for a beginner, along with purchasing used tools. Your point about the Festool and DeWalt routers doing the same job is also on point. Nice build!
I actually weirdly appreciate it when video creators take sponsorships from companies unrelated to the content of their videos! Sundays presumably has no stake in what tools or materials you use, and I also appreciate that it’s a company that makes an actual physical product rather than a vpn or data mining discount service… sadly my shop supervisor is no longer with us, but still, much appreciate your “far less compromising or annoying” choice of sponsorship.
Brushes for the router are easy to replace. They wear, so if there is less than 1/4” of carbon at the end of the spring, head to a good hardware store like an Ace with your old brushes (or the entire router). The fit doesn’t have to be perfect for it to work, and they are pretty cheap.
I have been interested in wood working for years, But I couldn't get "traditional" Joinery right/correct. so, I would give up just to try again sometime in the future, and again give up. Then I found pocket hole jigs, game changer I made heaps of stuff. Then gave up again because I couldn't cut strait and I would buy precut/cut to order from the store , that felt like i was just assembling not making. Plus it was expensive. Then in 2021 I was given a miter saw for fathers day, out came the pocket jig (a cheap rip off) and I was away again. I upgraded the jig to a Kreg again game changer. I bought more tools (cheap one's) and then bought a decent table saw. Last year I went back to school (at 57 I'm not the youngest in the class) and I'm now learning hand tools and joinery. I am now replacing my cheap tools with decent ones. My point I guess is don't diss any tool that get's you into a hobby or path that you enjoy.
Excellent video! FWIW, I've made items I like very much that have a round-over made by sanding. My sanding block is an 8" piece of old-growth 2x4 that had been thrown out (side of the street) with a strip of sandpaper wrapped lengthwise around it. Hand-sanded round-overs don't have that factory-made look one can get with a router, but they can look very nice with careful sanding. I maybe even prefer the handmade look. I recently did spring for a router and bits but haven't used it yet -- still making round-overs by hand-sanding
What is the accordion structure you have for your panel clamps? Was this a prior project? I struggle with holding and spacing clamps for panel glue ups and this looks like a great solution. Thanks.
I'd get a soft hardwood starting out. I started out doing a red oak project long ago and quickly found out how inadequate my cheaper tools were in working it. By the end of the project I was cursing my choice in wood as I had only used pine before. Think some tools broke too. 😂
I bought cheaper tools too, some are good and some, like a table saw need a higher quality one. I started with ryobi table saw and upgraded to dewalt which I recommend for a beginner one. I also upgraded to festool sander because of the vibration and turns out the sanding was faster and higher quality. I still use my other 2 sanders when needed. My other tools are all ryobi with the exception of my routers. I have a skill and dewalt compact.
I love your videos man, including this one where you address a lot of issues I dealt with so far ranging from thinking what tools to buy based on my needs and dealing with so called “experts” or “ gatekeepers” which often times come out as negative and over critical and eager to tear down other people’s work. Thanks a lot and will watch your other videos. I’m kinda a beginner but have done quite a few projects so far and debating whether I want to do this long term since I do enjoy woodworking quite a lot even though it’s got challenges sometimes
Have you guys considered adding a second hand no. 4 hand plane to the beginner tool set? It's a hell of a lot more fun than sanding, and it comes in very handy for flattening panels and straightening boards that aren't too warped - without costing an arm and a leg.
As one who is just beginning my woodworking journey, your videos are golden. I have now put an assembly table at the top of my to do list, thanks to the advice given in this video. Another point that you made that resonated with me was the one about hardwoods. I have access to big box stores but haven’t located good sources for hardwood. Purchasing S4S boards for a given project makes sense to me but how reliable is online purchasing vice hand picking the wood yourself? I have heard good things about woodworkers source so might give them a try. Anyways, thanks for the videos they are welcomed and appreciated.
Excellent video with awesome messaging. Really enjoyed your take on beginner woodworking and think you hit some excellent points. Everyone would benefit from seeing this!👍👍👍
Regarding jigs, there's one thing people tend to forget about beginner woodworkers. The most important resource to this craft, which most shops are overflowing with, is SCRAP WOOD -- which, by definition, is non-existent in a new woodworker's shop! When cutting your first 2x4, you can't prop it up on a few scraps of 2x4. When building your first project using walnut, you can't do a test cut on a scrap piece of walnut. In the 3 years since I started, I've lost count of the number of times I've gone to the Big Box store to buy wood for a jig that "you can easily make out of the scraps you already have". In fact, the first piece of hardwood I ever bought was a red oak 1x4, so I could make runners for a crosscut sled. Even today, if I needed a scrap of 2x4 longer than about 18 inches, I'd have to go buy it. And the only time I ever buy MDF is when I want to make a jig that requires a scrap piece of MDF.
the worksurface is probably the most important thing to me. it was something my shop teacher stressed in jr high when we did take-home projects. nothing is more frustrating to me than trying to make sure something will sit straight when i'm working on a garage floor. i usually get some saw horses, straight 2x4s and a sheet of plywood to make a flat surface. i notch the saw horses to hold the 2x4s then lay the plywood across. shim as necessary to get a dead flat and level surface. form that you can build your permanent work surface and trust that it is flat. i usually build my work surface upside down so that what will be the top when it is flipped is as flat as the plywood i shimmed. beyond that, winding sticks, a straight edge and hand plane will let you get most things flat enough for woodwork. being within 1/16" across 48" is good enough for most anything. that gives you about 0.0013" of deviation per inch. so it's 1" out over about 760'.
Lincoln St. Woodworks... Awesome video my friend. I am, I guess you could say just getting back into woodworking and I don't know if I can do these seemingly easy builds but I am going to try them. After I try to build some garage cabinets, a good assembly table and maybe a miter saw and table saw station. I realize you guys that know what you're doing always make it look easier than it really is so.... we will see. LOL Lots to do!!
Good tips about finding timber. Recycled timber, including framing and roofing timber can be good. It has the benefit of being well seasoned but you have to check for nails, staples, etc. On coffee tables: watched this with my feet up on a coffee table I made about 1970, age 15, at school. Walnut, white oak, red rauli. It's a chess table with a rim and inlay in the rim. Hand tools. Couldn't do it now due to cost of the wood and not having the hand tools nor a workbench to take the impact of hand tools (quite right to consider a bench as a tool). Power tools and jigs for me in my pension age. I'll be making anything up to 100 beehives for my son during January so a few jigs and my circular saw will be all I need for a quite serious level of production work
Love that clamp jig that spreads them out evenly for the table tops, Would love to make a small version of that for doing serving trays. Great video. Thanks for all the tips!
I'm a noob at woodworking and I only have a circular saw, drill, Kreg crosscut station and kreg rip cut. This video was very informative and inspiring thank you. The thing about buying vs making it yourself has come across my mind like you said but to me it's about learning to build it. I'm from Southern California so I don't know if that's the reason why but lumber seems to be vary expensive at my local lumber yard and don't mean walnut or cherry type wood. A 2x10x12 yellow pine was going for $105.
My guess is since Yellow Pine comes from the south east, that might have something to do with the cost (though $105 is quite a lot for pine) You'll likely find Douglass Fir to be cheaper on the west coast. Everyone says to avoid the box stores, but my experience so far has been that local lumber yards are 2-3 times the price for construction grade lumber. And although our hardwood store near me has really nice quality hardwoods, but the cheapest was Alder at $8 a board foot. Which is about 10x as much as a typical 2x4 from Home Depot (which is 75 cents a board foot).
I’m not a novice but not an expert. I know enough to know I don’t know much. One thing that dawned on me a few years ago is how much you can do with a circular saw. The game changer for me was being able to breakdown 4x8 into straight accurate cuts with little waste. Circular saw jigs a BIG help. The new course looks awesome!
Thank you for this video. I needed to hear this... I am a perfectionist. It's tough. I also can't seem to read a tape measure mark to making an accurate cut kinda beginner but learning every attempt. Most of my tools were given to me, yard sale or harbor frieght over time. My goal is making projects for my daughters - they're very young.
Nice video encouraging folks to make things! One advice you should mention, get affordable tools but immediately upgrade the blades, router bits and sand paper (consumables) as they make much bigger difference in quality than tools.
I’m a beginner, taking my time with my first project since I just have a plastic picnic bench, some cheap sawhorses, and a whole lot of mdf spacers to try and keep things level lol. Basic circular saw, router, sander, drill. Making a corner shelf from some plans I bought online out of cherry. It’s a lot of time measuring, and some screw ups/redos, but it’s not impossible. I did make the simple zero tolerance edge guide for this project and it’s been a big help.
Bravo! Rather than mention individual items that I liked about this video, I will just say that this should be mandatory watching for everyone just starting out.
Maybe that outs me as a beginner, but I love my water-based brush-on clear poly paint meant for stairs and hardwood floors. 2 coats with sanding in between is usually enough. It's super hard and gives my construction lumber furniture a slightly more luxurious feel.
Hi John, That was one of the best woodworking videos I have ever watched. All the lessons I learned the hard way you learned and ,more importantly, teach here. Bravo. Cheers, Keith
Excellent video - great advice all around! Most significant is to not be afraid to fail, but be proud that you gave something a try and found things to learn along the way.
Guy's a great source of information. Just like playing music, it never hurts to go back over the basics now and then, even if you're a pro. Just finished building my shop and these tips are just what I need to freshen up on what I thought I knew about building the finer things 👍
Great job on this video. I can appreciate the extra effort you go to to actually use the basic tools for this demonstration. that being said - what is your scissor jig that has the parallel clamps attached at 9:58? And where does one get that?! I so need one!
2:18 You can also use stair gauges which you can find for under 8 bucks at Lowe's paired with a framing square if you don't wanna build the jig. Also, you don't really need an impact driver or cordless tools. You can use a corded circ saw and a corded drill(variable speed trigger for precise/cautious drilling).
Great video Thanks for sharing I’m new to woodworking and 58 years old I’ve bought all my tools off FB marketplace because I’m on disability and can’t afford to buy new tools. And I love watching your videos I’ve learned so much. Thanks for sharing
Hey bud can I ask you a question? UA-cam woodworkers are always going on about wood movement, and using screws with space to move, like you have here. But what if you are building with traditional joinery, dowels, mortices, etc. and not screws or bolts? I am building tables using no screws, and I am concerned that I will run into problems with wood movement. But how can I know if a design will have future problems?
Good video. It was short enough you could have built the homemade track saw jig to show the beginners how simple it is to build. If they are starting with no experience it could have been useful.
John, you couldn't be more right about the smaller dogs. I also always had bigger dogs, labs in particular. Then about 14 years ago decided to "kill some time" at a local animal shelter because I was early for a meeting in the area... Left with a 20 pound Schnauzer Poodle mix... she doesnt shed, she doesnt eat a ton, she doesnt tear up my yard and she is a great shop and truck dog along with the 3 others we have had over the years. Fast forward to today, I still am a General Contractor but my wife and I own Dog Resorts now because of this one rescued dog. She never did well at our local resort so we said we can do it better, and we did.
no regrets about any decision I have ever made over the years. I am even more pleased that I did not fall to the pressure of buying the cordless festool dust extractor with four minutes of runtime or their little dollhouse table saw. years from now I will look back at these decisions and say I was a very smart tool buyer still with no regrets.
looking at this table - how hard would it be to make a hidden drawer that sits between the two top runners that could pull out? A place to stash your candy or other things out of sight.
Water based, or hybrid* oil varnish meant for floors if you like getting done within a day with a very resilient finish! Or lacquer (brush on) or shellac for speed and ease. For blocking resin and knots (and before staining?), Apply Zinsser BIN shellac base (solvent is alcohol, ideally ethyl or isopropyl) it is heavily pigmented white and EVERYTHING sticks to it and it sticks to everything. You lose the natural color but gain sealed grain and it is a high performance primer. *(Hybrid = oil base in a water emulsion, cleans up like water base, dries faster than oil and is likely as durable as oil, will also likely yellow)
I started wood working about 21 years ago when my wife bought me a Ryobi tool package. I've added a few tools since then. Best advice, learn to make jigs. That will be a woodworking skill you will need for the rest of your life. Start with a workbench that you can easily fold up. then when you know what you want, built that. Most of my work is home improvements and cabinets. As such, I don't have a Big table saw, planer, power sander. Don't need them. And you would be amazed at the amount of baseboard, door, and window casing I've installed using my Ryobi 6.5" beginner circular saw, and some jigs. No miter saw required. Now for the DYI home improvement secret. Never take on a project that doesn't require at least one new tool. Yes dear, I can do that project for you, but I'll need "X" new tool to do it.
There are certainly times you can save money building it yourself, but when I got into woodworking it was because we wanted custom pieces that fit in specific areas and the box stores only sell generic sizes. The other nice thing is you can add any features you would like. If a generic piece will work, we usually buy it over building it, unless I have the time and am just looking for the enjoyment of working out in the shop. Pocket holes are usually my go to if they will be out of sight. Occasionally I will use them in seen areas but use plugs to hide them but usually I turn to glue and pins for a better look and speed of not using clamps.
I have been a wood finisher for over 35 years. I totally agree about the staining. If you MUST stain wood NEVER apply the stain directly to the wood. Especially if it’s something like pine or a lighter wood that you would prefer to be a darker tone. The only way to do it and have it not get blotchy is to mix your stain with either polyurethane or lacquer and spray it on and build up the darkness you want the results will amaze you and it’s super easy to do. But you do need the space to spray obviously. Otherwise, I totally agree. Use the tone of wood that matches the tone you’re looking for. But if you can’t do that, you can stain it without putting stain directly on the wood as I described above. Another thing to keep in mind about staining wood is that the smoother you sand, the bear wood the less the stain will penetrate in clear areas, but the more it will penetrate in Natier rougher woodgrain areas. If you absolutely must apply stain directly to the wood make sure you sand it only to 100 grit so the whole surface is equally rough. Then when you stain it, the stain will take more evenly across all of the wood. With a little practice, you can actually make it look quite good. Another good practice is to thin down. You’re staying 25 to 50% with mineral spirits and then wipe it on wipe it off. Let it dry if it needs more wipe it on wipe it off again, but remember to make sure you have not sand it to a super fine 400 grit smooth surface. I’m sure this is obvious enough, but I also would add. Make sure you always sand with the grain and never in a circular motion. Any slight swirl. Mark will show up horribly in the staining if you’re applying it directly to the wood not so much if you’re spraying on polyurethane or lacquer that has stain mixed in with it. But definitely if you’re wiping it on.
Totally agree! I am always asked for stained furniture. When staining pine or other notably splotchy wood, I take ready to use shellac and dilute 50% with denatured alcohol. After sanding to 120 grit, I apply the diluted shellac brush it on liberally so it can soak in. The alcohol evaporating may cause the surface temp to drop a little, so once the surface has warmed back up to room temp, I know the shellac has dried. I then sand again with 120 grit and stain. Here's another tip: If your are planning to stain your project, be very mindful of glue drips on your exposed surfaces, especially if you will be using a dark stain. Most glues will prevent the wood from accepting stain causing a bare spot. Gorilla white wood glue seems better than Titebond in this regard. But when I do get a glue drip, I used to use a wet rag to wipe it off. Instead, I will put a piece of tape next to it to remind me it's there and let it dry. Once dry I will use a chisel or scraper to scrape the glue spot being careful not to create a divot that will be visible in the light reflection of the finish. But sometimes I don't see it before it's time to stain. When that happens, I will fix it immediately instead of waiting for the stain to dry. First, sand or scrape the glue out and repeat the sanding process on the spot and a couple of inches around it remembering to use a larger radius with each grit, then re-stain the whole area before the original stain has dried. If you catch it before the stain dries, you won't even know it was there, but if not, you will see it. Alternatively, you can leave it and use an artists brush and disguise the spot by dabbing it with a 50/50 mixture of stain/finish during the finishing process. This is very hard to hide so I try to avoid this option.
I have burnt some spruce by propane-butane for outdoor construction job, then sanded some leftovers I still keep in my shop. I actually like the look of it but have not built anything furniture-like from that yet. Any chance of getting a good-looking finish based on something like that?
@@pavelhromadka658 That depends on how you define good-looking. If you want to protect it without changing the current appearance, boiled linseed oil (BLO) might be a good choice. Spruce is very porous like pine and having been charred, it will be even more so. BLO will add a slight amber color (imagine acoustic guitars which are commonly made with spruce). However the color doesn't really change much after the initial treatment, and you (almost) can't apply it too heavy. I have even submerged parts in a container of BLO and allow it to sit and absorb as much as possible. After a while, just pull the part out, wipe off the excess (very important), wait a few minutes, check if more oil oozed out and wipe again (repeat as needed) then let dry air dry to cure, or I might place it under a heat lamp if I'm impatient. BLO has drying agents in it that will cause it to harden to a gummy candy-like consistency. Despite being soft, it is very resilient. I have a wood mallet I made from black walnut and maple and finished with BLO only. I mistakenly left it outside one evening and forgot about it. I discovered it after a couple of heavy rains and aside from being muddy, the mallet had no shrinking, cracking or other signs of water damage. Over time, I lightly sand with 220 or 320 to remove dirt and re-treat to look like new. With BLO, you can add multiple coats, but it will only build to a matte sheen which can be waxed and buffed if desired. I view it more as a protectant than a finish. For that, you can top-coat with an actual finish. Shellac might be a good choice because it can get to a semi-gloss sheen before buffing, and is a harder finish but also not as durable as other options like lacquer or polyurethane (it is just bug secretions after all). Shellac is oil and water resistant, but strong alcohols like denatured alcohol will dissolve it. Just remember, if you do top-coat over BLO make sure you give it plenty time to fully cure or your top-coat might not adhere properly and flake off after a while. BLO has a distinctive odor (not offensive to me), and when the odor has diminished (not gone completely) and the part is back to room temperature, I know I can proceed. The heavier the initial treatment, the longer you should wait. For a light coat, recoat or finish the next day; heavy saturation, maybe a week or two. A bonus feature is that you don't have to have a clean-room to use it.
Excellent advice, there is not one thing that you said that l could find myself disagreeing with. I only wish; that l saw something like this many years ago. I have to admit though; l’ve been a “home woodworker” for many years now, and l still manage to make some sort of cock up on a pretty regular basis. Perhaps that’s where my lack of planning comes in? Have a great New Year ❤🇦🇺
So much of this applies to any hobby where you create items--e.g. garment sewing or leatherworking (latter is my business, sewing & wood is for stuff I want). You have ro enjoy the process & material--when i started it was PBS & internet still military secret--so ratio of really good info was higher than on yT now... New tools are always fun to admire, but get the best you can afford when needed... And practice the fundamentals. I also golfed... No matter the tool/hobby, it is always the squishy organic part that determines the outcome.
Really enjoyed this video. That last tip was something I hadn't heard before. Thanks. Btw sometimes, used tools cause bigger issues. Like a used bandsaw. That after you buy it you discover the main bearings are bad. Lol
For me, when I started I found 3 content providers that I trusted on the Tube. Steve Ramsey, Jay Bates and Matt Cremona (when Jay and Matt were actually building things) and watched and watched their videos. Then as the skills provided, I ventured to someone like Rob Cosman. I will never be that good but after all isn't woodworking about being within 1/4". Everything you say here is true, just get going! !! !!!
I like your style of making videos and would love to see more on actually building stuff. One sentence in your video is quite true: you do not build cheaper than carpenter, but you build to your likings. I started with furnitures for my son's room. Carpenter asked for approx. 40k€ (approx. 50k US-$), so I decided to buy wood for 5k€ and the tools. Now, I invested more than 50k€ in tools, it is real fun, and I build multiple capinets, tables, desks, etc. for my home. Unfortunately, I am in Germany and not allowed to sell furnitures, since I have no masters degree in carpentry. But never mind, it is a great hobby and gives you some good time to relax.
What an amazing video! ❤❤❤ As an experienced woodworker with all the tools, this is something the average Joe could learn from greatly. Great job, watched the whole thing and can completely relate to making do with minimal amount of tools. Perfect!❤️❤️❤️
A professor liked to tell us that "perfection is the enemy of good enough." Some of the best advice I ever heard. Aim for perfect, but don't get yourself down over the little mistakes. They just create character.
im new to woodworking and i would like to make things on my own but i dont know which angles i should cut legs or other pieces. Can you make a video on how to come up with the angle you are looking for?
While I agree that glue is perfectly adequate to hold the legs to the table, a couple dowels drilled through at each of those joints would have looked very nice! This was a really great video. Solid advice.
You have a schnauzer! My last dog was a schnauzer wonderful breed. Nice table, and I’ve made all the mistakes you mentioned except getting bogged down with traditional joinery. I’m a big fan of Peter Millard at 10 Minute Workshop and he convinced me that, because of the resale value, I could ‘afford’ a domino. Best investment I have made so far.
A lot of people like knots in their furniture for that farmhouse look and feel. I make almost all my projects from knotty and southern pine and it sells very well. I guess it all depends on where your market is. Where I live all those hardwoods are 5-6 times more expensive than the wood I use.
I consider myself a reasonably advanced intermediate woodworker, but I still find this video great and very helpful. I think this might have been one of your best in recent memory.
New woodworker here. I'd like to have room in my basement shop for a workbench, but I did make room for a 4'X8' assembly table (on casters) and a mitre saw workstation up against a wall. I can't imagine not having a flat surface on which to assemble components, let alone the final product.
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Awesome video for new or seasoned! Where can I find the plans for this table? I love it! I went to your plans link above but nothing there. Thanks!!
Really good advice. I am 57 and about seven years into woodworking. Would not have happened without UA-cam. Pretty sure most folks have looked at a finished project and said to themselves “ if I did this again I would do it ________ differently”. The process and the learning are what, to me anyways, makes this craft so interesting and enjoyable. Loved the tip with the oversized screw hole to account for wood movement. That one was new to me.
Glad it helped!
Yeah, that's one of the things I remember most when first watching the UA-cam pros. Everything they did seemed flawless, because they would cover their mistakes. Only when I started watching this channel, and Mike Farrington, did I begin to realize that one of the most important skills of woodworking, is correcting your mistakes. No project will be perfect, but how you recover from a bad cut or drilling, separates the pros from people like myself ;)
I love that last bit… during a project I was working on (and felt like I was failing, badly) a buddy of mine grabbed me by the shoulders, looked me dead in the eyes, and said “ALWAYS remember this… TAN. This Ain’t NASA. This doesn’t need to go to outer space. This isn’t life or death. It can be imperfect and still be great.” I carry this with me, always.
I love it. I'm adding that to my arsenal, including "KISS" for Keep It Simple, Stupid. I'll KISS TAN, now I just need to find a woman who enjoys simple woodworking and a good tan lol.
I usually take a quick look at people's channels I comment on, and I hope your shoulder is doing better all these years later. My dad's shoulder is messed up pretty bad right now but he can't afford getting it looked at.
Love that. Stealing TAN for sure
One of the common beginner mistakes when they make things for others is the tendency to point out the mistakes.
Trust me, unless they are as experienced as you they won't see them. Keep your mouth closed or just say thank you.
@@a9ball1 Good advice. I'm quite guilty of that - pointing out my mistakes. Most people who look at your work aren't searching for mistakes; they're probably genuinely impressed that you made something.
In a similar vein, I'll say something like, "It's not brain science... or rocket surgery." Same sentiment, but helps those paying attention self-identify.
After retiring, I still have a steady stream of friends, neighbors and family who want custom woodworking pieces. My simple rules: they come to the shop, use my stuff, build their own piece and I assist. Most people agree. So, I have had the pleasure of teaching lots of folks about woodworking. Measuring everything seems to be a big misconception. A neighbor showed up with a tape measure clipped to his belt. After he "whipped it out" a couple dozen times, I took it and hid it from him. Cutting to fit is the most important measurement. Also, I get the comment about tools every time. I explain that my collection is the result of 50 years of woodworking. Another good point you made is the strength of glue. I still haven't figured out a good way to convey trust in glued joints without a home tour demonstrating glue-only joinery. Another very good info-taining video. Thx.
Thanks Rich. Always like reading your comments!
Dang look at those drawrbinets
Having gone through this over the past 2 to 3 years, I 100% agree with your points. I'd also add 2 more that I think are important. 1) when you do make the step up to "fixed" tools like a table / miter saw, it's worth investing in a digital calibration set like what Rockler offers and learn to properly calibrate them! It makes a world of difference when the tools are set as good as they can be, not just for quality cuts, but also peace of mind and knowing that if there's a mistake it's a user-error issue that can be fixed through practice and learning. 2) If wanting to use oil based finishes, understanding how to safely dispose of rags!! Since my shop is in my garage, I pretty much only use water based stuff for now to avoid self combusting rags due to user-error.
Thanks for all the great info and encouragement!
Bravo on excellent points for beginners. Your advice on buying wood bears repeating in every youtuber's video: cheaper hardwoods and plywood not only look better and go together better; I would also argue they are safer to cut with power tools. I was downright afraid of my table saw when I first started out, and I realize now that my fear was justified: I was running cheap, twisted, construction-grade lumber through it! Now I mostly build projects with poplar and plywood.
12:15 I really like the way that profiled edge looks with a round over on top and chamfer on bottom. It’s like a simple molding. Clean. Effective. Nice.
Yeah its a really nice look
I was going to say the same. I am going to use that on the coffee table I am making now.
As someone with decent experience, this is THE channel to watch for beginners to pro. Even with lots of experience, it’s good to come back to someone with so much basic common sense
I also like Wood Working for Mere Mortals. He lives John's message but without the expensive tools in the background.
Don't get me wrong I love John's content. This video was great. I just like WWMM's approach as well.
@@mattrinne I love me some Ramsey as well!
Can’t take the sneaky advertising. This video is a dog food commercial.
@@mullingreen8370 thanks! Greatly appreciate that
Definitely needed to hear this today. Been beating myself up about foolish mistakes in wood joinery. No one’s perfect. Thanks for the vid.
On the other hand, I wish I had started with a combination hand saw, a #4 hand plane, and two chisels. I think the difference is product vs process mindset. Both are perfectly legit, and it's far from binary, but the human tendency online for self isolating subcommunities makes this concept difficult to find.
@@rickyelement7783 glad it helped!
Love your approach to woodworking. I'm new/old to woodworking as a hobby (started some 30 years ago, raised 4 kids, restarted 2 years ago) and UA-cam has vastly changed my learning curve. I used to buy magazines that kind of explained what I was trying to make and then I'd figure out, and screw up the rest. Your statement about good woodworkers being obsessed with making jigs hit home. Now at 65 years old, I purchased some quality tools, 36" 3hp SawStop vs. Craftsman Construction Saw, but still have my old 8" Delta Jointer and 12" Delta planer (looking to upgrade jointer to a helical head, and probably buy a new planer, old one only 1 speed still works), and my trusty drill press and 5 year old Hercules Miter saw. Got the SawStop because I'm teaching my grandkids how to woodwork so I don't want/need any unplanned missing fingers. There are enough hazards around the shop, so eliminating one help me with my sanity. Your comment about destroying a project in 2 hrs by not putting on a finish properly also hit home, alone with sanding before assembly. I purchased a 3M 6" sander (my arthritic hands thank me) which I love, and it's completely changed my attitude on sanding, I actually enjoy it now ... some what 🙂.
BTW, I convinced my wife (of 39 years) to watch the video you did on finishes. I'm making a built in pantry (two base cabinets and 5 shelves) for her with hard maple. We got the maple from a tree my son cut down. I had it cut and kiln dried, we got 587 board feet out of it so plenty of maple to work with. Also got 327 bd feet from a hickory tree my neighbor gave us. Sorry, I digress (I was thinking about your comments on buying boards). Well, she opted for the clear hard wax finish. Easiest by far finish I've ever applied. Thanks for showing her all the options and helping me with finishing this project. As for pocket screws, I just purchased a Kreg 720 pocket hole machine (haven't used it yet), for my upcoming build of a bookcase, more cabinets and a desk for her sewing room. Now if I can get my sore back to cooperate maybe I'll get all these done without killing myself. Love your channel!!!
Videos like this is why you are my favorite woodworking UA-camr. I love your honesty lightheartedness.
Thanks!
Yes to agree with your statement "You could find a bookshelf or a coffee table online or in a big box store for less" (Most of the Time) but you will never and I mean NEVER get to the quality of material as you choose what to build with and you are the one building it with pride. We have lost this across ALL walks of skill based working over the last 2 generations. I am just getting started in this adventure of wood working after 50 years of growing up around automotive racing/hobby. It is a bit daunting but no more then if I look back now at the tools and knowledge acquired from cars/trucks, as you also stated...."It's a Marathon not a Sprint"
Pre-sanding batches of like pieces long before assembly… game changer. I’ve actually grown to enjoy sanding with this increase-the-surface-area efficiency. Great tips! Thank you as always.
Nice reset John. Excellent point on making jigs for repeatable tasks. It’s so refreshing to see someone who recognizes that we were all new to woodworking at some point. The main reasons I subscribed is your knowledge, but also your humility. No point elaborating on how you’re a better woodworker, i already know that. I watch your videos to increase my knowledge. It’s harder to learn from makers who are snooty & have invested $30K in tools. Bravo sir. Thanks too for teaming up with two of my other fav. channels to make us even better makers. Suggestion for a topic to cover: making your own finishes from commonly found ingredients (e.g. mixing your own shellac, or turpentine-beeswax-linseed oil).
I recently started woodworking because I have always liked the feel of timber furniture and I need something to do being semi-retired. In my working career I created spreadsheets/databases/FE's and other applications etc and found that I needed to do something where I was creating and woodwork seems to be it. Initially I thought I could do it as a side hustle but it is very difficult to make money but hopefully it will come. I use timber offcuts from a local sawmill instead of the proverbial "Pallet".
I now try to make things that suit the size offcuts I get as I have found the re-sawing to smaller size timber for other projects takes a lot of time.
Thanks for a great video and yes it sounds like the brushes have worn out in the router, a simple fix.
3:39 OMG this inverse table saw jig is so cool! 🔥
I'll definitely get your guys' course when I start my tiny house project, I love all three of you for different reasons, I'm so glad you collaborated and I'm sure the end result is extremely high value ❤
And people say a level headed response gets no views.. thank you for presenting all the arguments and context behind decisions, not just "rules" that folks should blindly follow
9:59 Are we really just not going to talk about that clamping rig??? I need to know more about that business.
I’m thoroughly enjoying your videos. I’ve built a few random projects, and have always been somewhat handy with tools, but recently got into woodworking seriously. I stumbled across your channel and have been watching your back catalogue whenever I get a chance. Overall you are a good mix of entertaining and educational.
Definitely nailed it when talking about the priority of an assembly table. I can't even count how many Tylenol it took me to learn that assembling projects on the floor was killing me.
If the dewalt has used brushes you should be able to easily check it, most tools have accsible brushes from the outside, so you dont have to disassemble the whole tool, I dont have a dewalt, but my guess would be that if you undo the top cover you will see them.
I cut extra pieces when making raised panel cabinet doors. I ended up using 3 of the 4 "extra" pieces. Great piece of advice. Beats having to duplicate the setup. I've also found that very few people notice mistakes unless I point them out.
I've been away from woodworking due to a divorce and some health issues. Hoping to get a shop set back up after the new year. Found your channel again and this is exactly what i needed. Between you, Tamar, and Stumpy Nubs i feel like I'm coming back home. Thanks for your advice. Will say a prayer. Go do the honey do now!!!
Add on to this: I got sucked into the "Only General Finishes Arrn-R-Seal is a good poly". HOGWASH! I started w/ Minwax Poly, using it as a wipe-on, but then I listened to "them" and I spent a LOT of money on those $28 to $40 quarts of the General Finishes stuff...and it MAY be better, but I sure couldn't see it when I compared it to MinWax poly ($15), thinned down to a wipe-on poly. And That is another part of the expense: Arm-R-Seal is "already thinned"...so it actually is twice the price to begin with!
Buying tools as you need them is indeed one of the key tips for a beginner, along with purchasing used tools. Your point about the Festool and DeWalt routers doing the same job is also on point. Nice build!
I actually weirdly appreciate it when video creators take sponsorships from companies unrelated to the content of their videos! Sundays presumably has no stake in what tools or materials you use, and I also appreciate that it’s a company that makes an actual physical product rather than a vpn or data mining discount service… sadly my shop supervisor is no longer with us, but still, much appreciate your “far less compromising or annoying” choice of sponsorship.
Dude that new miter saw station looks so damn cool as a backdrop and the upper cabinet drawer idea is genius. 💪🏾💯
Thanks! I’m really liking it so far
Really great advice here. Good reminders even for those of us who are slightly beyond the beginner stage. Thanks for sharing!
Going middle out with the slats was smart. Provides optimal tip-to-tip efficiency.
One of my favorite scenes of all time. MJT
@@Lincolnstww 😂 I knew there was no way that line in the video wasn’t intentional. Well done.
Amateur off and on sawdust creator here, for the last 50+ years, and I really enjoyed this video and your style of delivery 😎.
Brushes for the router are easy to replace. They wear, so if there is less than 1/4” of carbon at the end of the spring, head to a good hardware store like an Ace with your old brushes (or the entire router). The fit doesn’t have to be perfect for it to work, and they are pretty cheap.
awesome thanks for taking the time to comment on that
I have been interested in wood working for years, But I couldn't get "traditional" Joinery right/correct. so, I would give up just to try again sometime in the future, and again give up. Then I found pocket hole jigs, game changer I made heaps of stuff. Then gave up again because I couldn't cut strait and I would buy precut/cut to order from the store , that felt like i was just assembling not making. Plus it was expensive. Then in 2021 I was given a miter saw for fathers day, out came the pocket jig (a cheap rip off) and I was away again. I upgraded the jig to a Kreg again game changer. I bought more tools (cheap one's) and then bought a decent table saw. Last year I went back to school (at 57 I'm not the youngest in the class) and I'm now learning hand tools and joinery. I am now replacing my cheap tools with decent ones. My point I guess is don't diss any tool that get's you into a hobby or path that you enjoy.
That is a great journey! There are lots of ways to get into a hobby!
Excellent video! FWIW, I've made items I like very much that have a round-over made by sanding. My sanding block is an 8" piece of old-growth 2x4 that had been thrown out (side of the street) with a strip of sandpaper wrapped lengthwise around it. Hand-sanded round-overs don't have that factory-made look one can get with a router, but they can look very nice with careful sanding. I maybe even prefer the handmade look. I recently did spring for a router and bits but haven't used it yet -- still making round-overs by hand-sanding
What is the accordion structure you have for your panel clamps? Was this a prior project? I struggle with holding and spacing clamps for panel glue ups and this looks like a great solution. Thanks.
Also wondering the same, would love to build with that
@@dogedogego- Woodpecker has the xpander clamp system.
I believe this is the Izzy Swan X-CLAMP SYSTEM. Woodpeckers also makes an Xpander setup in two sizes.
Awesome video! I've been woodworking for over 40 years, and you are so right. Start where you are and work from there! Keep up the great work!
Much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
I'd get a soft hardwood starting out. I started out doing a red oak project long ago and quickly found out how inadequate my cheaper tools were in working it. By the end of the project I was cursing my choice in wood as I had only used pine before. Think some tools broke too. 😂
Honestly, I actually like natural SYP color and grain, I would stick to it anyway even if things like oak were not as expensive
I bought cheaper tools too, some are good and some, like a table saw need a higher quality one. I started with ryobi table saw and upgraded to dewalt which I recommend for a beginner one. I also upgraded to festool sander because of the vibration and turns out the sanding was faster and higher quality. I still use my other 2 sanders when needed. My other tools are all ryobi with the exception of my routers. I have a skill and dewalt compact.
I love your videos man, including this one where you address a lot of issues I dealt with so far ranging from thinking what tools to buy based on my needs and dealing with so called “experts” or “ gatekeepers” which often times come out as negative and over critical and eager to tear down other people’s work. Thanks a lot and will watch your other videos. I’m kinda a beginner but have done quite a few projects so far and debating whether I want to do this long term since I do enjoy woodworking quite a lot even though it’s got challenges sometimes
Have you guys considered adding a second hand no. 4 hand plane to the beginner tool set? It's a hell of a lot more fun than sanding, and it comes in very handy for flattening panels and straightening boards that aren't too warped - without costing an arm and a leg.
As one who is just beginning my woodworking journey, your videos are golden. I have now put an assembly table at the top of my to do list, thanks to the advice given in this video. Another point that you made that resonated with me was the one about hardwoods. I have access to big box stores but haven’t located good sources for hardwood. Purchasing S4S boards for a given project makes sense to me but how reliable is online purchasing vice hand picking the wood yourself? I have heard good things about woodworkers source so might give them a try. Anyways, thanks for the videos they are welcomed and appreciated.
Excellent video with awesome messaging. Really enjoyed your take on beginner woodworking and think you hit some excellent points. Everyone would benefit from seeing this!👍👍👍
Much appreciated!
Regarding jigs, there's one thing people tend to forget about beginner woodworkers. The most important resource to this craft, which most shops are overflowing with, is SCRAP WOOD -- which, by definition, is non-existent in a new woodworker's shop!
When cutting your first 2x4, you can't prop it up on a few scraps of 2x4.
When building your first project using walnut, you can't do a test cut on a scrap piece of walnut.
In the 3 years since I started, I've lost count of the number of times I've gone to the Big Box store to buy wood for a jig that "you can easily make out of the scraps you already have". In fact, the first piece of hardwood I ever bought was a red oak 1x4, so I could make runners for a crosscut sled. Even today, if I needed a scrap of 2x4 longer than about 18 inches, I'd have to go buy it. And the only time I ever buy MDF is when I want to make a jig that requires a scrap piece of MDF.
the worksurface is probably the most important thing to me. it was something my shop teacher stressed in jr high when we did take-home projects. nothing is more frustrating to me than trying to make sure something will sit straight when i'm working on a garage floor. i usually get some saw horses, straight 2x4s and a sheet of plywood to make a flat surface. i notch the saw horses to hold the 2x4s then lay the plywood across. shim as necessary to get a dead flat and level surface. form that you can build your permanent work surface and trust that it is flat. i usually build my work surface upside down so that what will be the top when it is flipped is as flat as the plywood i shimmed. beyond that, winding sticks, a straight edge and hand plane will let you get most things flat enough for woodwork. being within 1/16" across 48" is good enough for most anything. that gives you about 0.0013" of deviation per inch. so it's 1" out over about 760'.
Lincoln St. Woodworks... Awesome video my friend. I am, I guess you could say just getting back into woodworking and I don't know if I can do these seemingly easy builds but I am going to try them. After I try to build some garage cabinets, a good assembly table and maybe a miter saw and table saw station. I realize you guys that know what you're doing always make it look easier than it really is so.... we will see. LOL Lots to do!!
Good tips about finding timber. Recycled timber, including framing and roofing timber can be good. It has the benefit of being well seasoned but you have to check for nails, staples, etc.
On coffee tables: watched this with my feet up on a coffee table I made about 1970, age 15, at school. Walnut, white oak, red rauli. It's a chess table with a rim and inlay in the rim. Hand tools. Couldn't do it now due to cost of the wood and not having the hand tools nor a workbench to take the impact of hand tools (quite right to consider a bench as a tool). Power tools and jigs for me in my pension age. I'll be making anything up to 100 beehives for my son during January so a few jigs and my circular saw will be all I need for a quite serious level of production work
Love that clamp jig that spreads them out evenly for the table tops, Would love to make a small version of that for doing serving trays. Great video. Thanks for all the tips!
I'm a noob at woodworking and I only have a circular saw, drill, Kreg crosscut station and kreg rip cut. This video was very informative and inspiring thank you. The thing about buying vs making it yourself has come across my mind like you said but to me it's about learning to build it. I'm from Southern California so I don't know if that's the reason why but lumber seems to be vary expensive at my local lumber yard and don't mean walnut or cherry type wood. A 2x10x12 yellow pine was going for $105.
My guess is since Yellow Pine comes from the south east, that might have something to do with the cost (though $105 is quite a lot for pine) You'll likely find Douglass Fir to be cheaper on the west coast.
Everyone says to avoid the box stores, but my experience so far has been that local lumber yards are 2-3 times the price for construction grade lumber. And although our hardwood store near me has really nice quality hardwoods, but the cheapest was Alder at $8 a board foot. Which is about 10x as much as a typical 2x4 from Home Depot (which is 75 cents a board foot).
I really appreciated the cross cut jig. You’re right about good workers studying and hunting for jigs. Thanks for posting.
I’m not a novice but not an expert. I know enough to know I don’t know much. One thing that dawned on me a few years ago is how much you can do with a circular saw. The game changer for me was being able to breakdown 4x8 into straight accurate cuts with little waste. Circular saw jigs a BIG help. The new course looks awesome!
Thank you so much for sharing your process and your results. I'm so happy for you that your focus on the woodworking is panning out!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. I needed to hear this...
I am a perfectionist. It's tough. I also can't seem to read a tape measure mark to making an accurate cut kinda beginner but learning every attempt.
Most of my tools were given to me, yard sale or harbor frieght over time. My goal is making projects for my daughters - they're very young.
Nice video encouraging folks to make things! One advice you should mention, get affordable tools but immediately upgrade the blades, router bits and sand paper (consumables) as they make much bigger difference in quality than tools.
I’m a beginner, taking my time with my first project since I just have a plastic picnic bench, some cheap sawhorses, and a whole lot of mdf spacers to try and keep things level lol. Basic circular saw, router, sander, drill. Making a corner shelf from some plans I bought online out of cherry. It’s a lot of time measuring, and some screw ups/redos, but it’s not impossible. I did make the simple zero tolerance edge guide for this project and it’s been a big help.
Bravo! Rather than mention individual items that I liked about this video, I will just say that this should be mandatory watching for everyone just starting out.
Maybe that outs me as a beginner, but I love my water-based brush-on clear poly paint meant for stairs and hardwood floors. 2 coats with sanding in between is usually enough. It's super hard and gives my construction lumber furniture a slightly more luxurious feel.
Hi John,
That was one of the best woodworking videos I have ever watched. All the lessons I learned the hard way you learned and ,more importantly, teach here. Bravo.
Cheers,
Keith
Excellent video - great advice all around! Most significant is to not be afraid to fail, but be proud that you gave something a try and found things to learn along the way.
Couldn’t agree more.
Guy's a great source of information. Just like playing music, it never hurts to go back over the basics now and then, even if you're a pro. Just finished building my shop and these tips are just what I need to freshen up on what I thought I knew about building the finer things 👍
Appreciate it!
Great job on this video. I can appreciate the extra effort you go to to actually use the basic tools for this demonstration. that being said - what is your scissor jig that has the parallel clamps attached at 9:58? And where does one get that?! I so need one!
Woodpecker xpander. Bessey has their less refined k-body revolution system as well.
Yes, the scissor clamp thing is not exactly a basic tool… I usually use glue+pocket screws for that kind of thing
This was a prototype Izzy swan developed before selling the idea to woodpeckers. They offer it for sale now I think
Are we now saying clamps aren’t a beginner tool? They expanding doesn’t change how they work, it’s just faster for me
@@Lincolnstww thank you sir!
2:18 You can also use stair gauges which you can find for under 8 bucks at Lowe's paired with a framing square if you don't wanna build the jig.
Also, you don't really need an impact driver or cordless tools. You can use a corded circ saw and a corded drill(variable speed trigger for precise/cautious drilling).
Oh wow. Never thought of that. Brilliant
Just bought the course!
What’s that cool expanding clamp you’ve got for the glue up?
Great video Thanks for sharing I’m new to woodworking and 58 years old I’ve bought all my tools off FB marketplace because I’m on disability and can’t afford to buy new tools. And I love watching your videos I’ve learned so much. Thanks for sharing
Hey bud can I ask you a question?
UA-cam woodworkers are always going on about wood movement, and using screws with space to move, like you have here.
But what if you are building with traditional joinery, dowels, mortices, etc. and not screws or bolts?
I am building tables using no screws, and I am concerned that I will run into problems with wood movement.
But how can I know if a design will have future problems?
Good video. It was short enough you could have built the homemade track saw jig to show the beginners how simple it is to build. If they are starting with no experience it could have been useful.
John, you couldn't be more right about the smaller dogs. I also always had bigger dogs, labs in particular. Then about 14 years ago decided to "kill some time" at a local animal shelter because I was early for a meeting in the area...
Left with a 20 pound Schnauzer Poodle mix... she doesnt shed, she doesnt eat a ton, she doesnt tear up my yard and she is a great shop and truck dog along with the 3 others we have had over the years.
Fast forward to today, I still am a General Contractor but my wife and I own Dog Resorts now because of this one rescued dog. She never did well at our local resort so we said we can do it better, and we did.
no regrets about any decision I have ever made over the years. I am even more pleased that I did not fall to the pressure of buying the cordless festool dust extractor with four minutes of runtime or their little dollhouse table saw. years from now I will look back at these decisions and say I was a very smart tool buyer still with no regrets.
so many years in and your humor is always on point. Thanks man. Hope you're making bank. Keep it up.
Thanks!
looking at this table - how hard would it be to make a hidden drawer that sits between the two top runners that could pull out? A place to stash your candy or other things out of sight.
Water based, or hybrid* oil varnish meant for floors if you like getting done within a day with a very resilient finish! Or lacquer (brush on) or shellac for speed and ease.
For blocking resin and knots (and before staining?), Apply Zinsser BIN shellac base (solvent is alcohol, ideally ethyl or isopropyl) it is heavily pigmented white and EVERYTHING sticks to it and it sticks to everything. You lose the natural color but gain sealed grain and it is a high performance primer.
*(Hybrid = oil base in a water emulsion, cleans up like water base, dries faster than oil and is likely as durable as oil, will also likely yellow)
I started wood working about 21 years ago when my wife bought me a Ryobi tool package. I've added a few tools since then. Best advice, learn to make jigs. That will be a woodworking skill you will need for the rest of your life. Start with a workbench that you can easily fold up. then when you know what you want, built that. Most of my work is home improvements and cabinets. As such, I don't have a Big table saw, planer, power sander. Don't need them. And you would be amazed at the amount of baseboard, door, and window casing I've installed using my Ryobi 6.5" beginner circular saw, and some jigs. No miter saw required. Now for the DYI home improvement secret.
Never take on a project that doesn't require at least one new tool. Yes dear, I can do that project for you, but I'll need "X" new tool to do it.
There are certainly times you can save money building it yourself, but when I got into woodworking it was because we wanted custom pieces that fit in specific areas and the box stores only sell generic sizes. The other nice thing is you can add any features you would like. If a generic piece will work, we usually buy it over building it, unless I have the time and am just looking for the enjoyment of working out in the shop.
Pocket holes are usually my go to if they will be out of sight. Occasionally I will use them in seen areas but use plugs to hide them but usually I turn to glue and pins for a better look and speed of not using clamps.
I have been a wood finisher for over 35 years. I totally agree about the staining. If you MUST stain wood NEVER apply the stain directly to the wood. Especially if it’s something like pine or a lighter wood that you would prefer to be a darker tone. The only way to do it and have it not get blotchy is to mix your stain with either polyurethane or lacquer and spray it on and build up the darkness you want the results will amaze you and it’s super easy to do. But you do need the space to spray obviously. Otherwise, I totally agree. Use the tone of wood that matches the tone you’re looking for. But if you can’t do that, you can stain it without putting stain directly on the wood as I described above. Another thing to keep in mind about staining wood is that the smoother you sand, the bear wood the less the stain will penetrate in clear areas, but the more it will penetrate in Natier rougher woodgrain areas. If you absolutely must apply stain directly to the wood make sure you sand it only to 100 grit so the whole surface is equally rough. Then when you stain it, the stain will take more evenly across all of the wood. With a little practice, you can actually make it look quite good. Another good practice is to thin down. You’re staying 25 to 50% with mineral spirits and then wipe it on wipe it off. Let it dry if it needs more wipe it on wipe it off again, but remember to make sure you have not sand it to a super fine 400 grit smooth surface. I’m sure this is obvious enough, but I also would add. Make sure you always sand with the grain and never in a circular motion. Any slight swirl. Mark will show up horribly in the staining if you’re applying it directly to the wood not so much if you’re spraying on polyurethane or lacquer that has stain mixed in with it. But definitely if you’re wiping it on.
bare
Totally agree! I am always asked for stained furniture. When staining pine or other notably splotchy wood, I take ready to use shellac and dilute 50% with denatured alcohol. After sanding to 120 grit, I apply the diluted shellac brush it on liberally so it can soak in. The alcohol evaporating may cause the surface temp to drop a little, so once the surface has warmed back up to room temp, I know the shellac has dried. I then sand again with 120 grit and stain. Here's another tip: If your are planning to stain your project, be very mindful of glue drips on your exposed surfaces, especially if you will be using a dark stain. Most glues will prevent the wood from accepting stain causing a bare spot. Gorilla white wood glue seems better than Titebond in this regard. But when I do get a glue drip, I used to use a wet rag to wipe it off. Instead, I will put a piece of tape next to it to remind me it's there and let it dry. Once dry I will use a chisel or scraper to scrape the glue spot being careful not to create a divot that will be visible in the light reflection of the finish. But sometimes I don't see it before it's time to stain. When that happens, I will fix it immediately instead of waiting for the stain to dry. First, sand or scrape the glue out and repeat the sanding process on the spot and a couple of inches around it remembering to use a larger radius with each grit, then re-stain the whole area before the original stain has dried. If you catch it before the stain dries, you won't even know it was there, but if not, you will see it. Alternatively, you can leave it and use an artists brush and disguise the spot by dabbing it with a 50/50 mixture of stain/finish during the finishing process. This is very hard to hide so I try to avoid this option.
great info here
I have burnt some spruce by propane-butane for outdoor construction job, then sanded some leftovers I still keep in my shop. I actually like the look of it but have not built anything furniture-like from that yet. Any chance of getting a good-looking finish based on something like that?
@@pavelhromadka658 That depends on how you define good-looking. If you want to protect it without changing the current appearance, boiled linseed oil (BLO) might be a good choice. Spruce is very porous like pine and having been charred, it will be even more so. BLO will add a slight amber color (imagine acoustic guitars which are commonly made with spruce). However the color doesn't really change much after the initial treatment, and you (almost) can't apply it too heavy. I have even submerged parts in a container of BLO and allow it to sit and absorb as much as possible. After a while, just pull the part out, wipe off the excess (very important), wait a few minutes, check if more oil oozed out and wipe again (repeat as needed) then let dry air dry to cure, or I might place it under a heat lamp if I'm impatient. BLO has drying agents in it that will cause it to harden to a gummy candy-like consistency. Despite being soft, it is very resilient. I have a wood mallet I made from black walnut and maple and finished with BLO only. I mistakenly left it outside one evening and forgot about it. I discovered it after a couple of heavy rains and aside from being muddy, the mallet had no shrinking, cracking or other signs of water damage. Over time, I lightly sand with 220 or 320 to remove dirt and re-treat to look like new. With BLO, you can add multiple coats, but it will only build to a matte sheen which can be waxed and buffed if desired. I view it more as a protectant than a finish. For that, you can top-coat with an actual finish. Shellac might be a good choice because it can get to a semi-gloss sheen before buffing, and is a harder finish but also not as durable as other options like lacquer or polyurethane (it is just bug secretions after all). Shellac is oil and water resistant, but strong alcohols like denatured alcohol will dissolve it. Just remember, if you do top-coat over BLO make sure you give it plenty time to fully cure or your top-coat might not adhere properly and flake off after a while. BLO has a distinctive odor (not offensive to me), and when the odor has diminished (not gone completely) and the part is back to room temperature, I know I can proceed. The heavier the initial treatment, the longer you should wait. For a light coat, recoat or finish the next day; heavy saturation, maybe a week or two. A bonus feature is that you don't have to have a clean-room to use it.
Just purchased the course. Beginning to get my starter tools now so will be ready by release date. Really excited for it!!!
Awesome!
Excellent advice, there is not one thing that you said that l could find myself disagreeing with. I only wish; that l saw something like this many years ago. I have to admit though; l’ve been a “home woodworker” for many years now, and l still manage to make some sort of cock up on a pretty regular basis. Perhaps that’s where my lack of planning comes in?
Have a great New Year ❤🇦🇺
Good points. I'm still using stuff I built with minimal tools 35 years ago.
So much of this applies to any hobby where you create items--e.g. garment sewing or leatherworking (latter is my business, sewing & wood is for stuff I want). You have ro enjoy the process & material--when i started it was PBS & internet still military secret--so ratio of really good info was higher than on yT now... New tools are always fun to admire, but get the best you can afford when needed... And practice the fundamentals. I also golfed... No matter the tool/hobby, it is always the squishy organic part that determines the outcome.
Really enjoyed this video. That last tip was something I hadn't heard before. Thanks. Btw sometimes, used tools cause bigger issues. Like a used bandsaw. That after you buy it you discover the main bearings are bad. Lol
I tell my students that learning is a journey, not a race. The journey is more fulfilling. Thank you for your videos. Happy New Year.🎉
For me, when I started I found 3 content providers that I trusted on the Tube. Steve Ramsey, Jay Bates and Matt Cremona (when Jay and Matt were actually building things) and watched and watched their videos. Then as the skills provided, I ventured to someone like Rob Cosman. I will never be that good but after all isn't woodworking about being within 1/4". Everything you say here is true, just get going! !! !!!
I like your style of making videos and would love to see more on actually building stuff.
One sentence in your video is quite true: you do not build cheaper than carpenter, but you build to your likings. I started with furnitures for my son's room. Carpenter asked for approx. 40k€ (approx. 50k US-$), so I decided to buy wood for 5k€ and the tools. Now, I invested more than 50k€ in tools, it is real fun, and I build multiple capinets, tables, desks, etc. for my home. Unfortunately, I am in Germany and not allowed to sell furnitures, since I have no masters degree in carpentry. But never mind, it is a great hobby and gives you some good time to relax.
What an amazing video! ❤❤❤ As an experienced woodworker with all the tools, this is something the average Joe could learn from greatly. Great job, watched the whole thing and can completely relate to making do with minimal amount of tools. Perfect!❤️❤️❤️
Much appreciated!
A professor liked to tell us that "perfection is the enemy of good enough." Some of the best advice I ever heard. Aim for perfect, but don't get yourself down over the little mistakes. They just create character.
amen
I love the table!! You said you had the plans but I can’t find them on your website. Will you be providing them? Yes, please!!
im new to woodworking and i would like to make things on my own but i dont know which angles i should cut legs or other pieces. Can you make a video on how to come up with the angle you are looking for?
Great advice. Should be shared with all beginners.
what is the clamp accordion and where do i buy one?
Same
While I agree that glue is perfectly adequate to hold the legs to the table, a couple dowels drilled through at each of those joints would have looked very nice! This was a really great video. Solid advice.
Those drawerbinets look amazing in the background, just saying.
hell yeah
You have a schnauzer! My last dog was a schnauzer wonderful breed. Nice table, and I’ve made all the mistakes you mentioned except getting bogged down with traditional joinery. I’m a big fan of Peter Millard at 10 Minute Workshop and he convinced me that, because of the resale value, I could ‘afford’ a domino. Best investment I have made so far.
No schnauzer, two little doodles!
Fantastic advice niblets throughout this video. But you didn’t name your circ saw. May I suggest OB1 (short for Only Basic 1).
A lot of people like knots in their furniture for that farmhouse look and feel. I make almost all my projects from knotty and southern pine and it sells very well. I guess it all depends on where your market is. Where I live all those hardwoods are 5-6 times more expensive than the wood I use.
What I have found on pine is that wood prep stuff will help the stain penetrate.
9:57 what is that fold out stretcher clamp? I have those same clamps, but the fold out mechanism seems super useful
Thanks, Jon. This was the pep talk I needed.
That sort-of track saw guide was really cool looking, as was the circular saw to miter saw jig.. I have never seen either before!! Great video.
Nice table Jon! Looks like that is going to be an awesome beginner woodworking course!
Thanks man!
Good shop supervisors are vital to making good projects, and for making all projects fun
I consider myself a reasonably advanced intermediate woodworker, but I still find this video great and very helpful. I think this might have been one of your best in recent memory.
Much appreciated! made my day
Love the content, just rebuilding a new shop after a move, but what is the clamp system you used and how does one find one?
New woodworker here. I'd like to have room in my basement shop for a workbench, but I did make room for a 4'X8' assembly table (on casters) and a mitre saw workstation up against a wall. I can't imagine not having a flat surface on which to assemble components, let alone the final product.
its an actual game changer