Why BMW Transmissions FAIL 6HP19 6HP21 6HP26 6HP32
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- Опубліковано 13 гру 2020
- Here is the most common failure on 6HP19, 6HP21, 6HP26, and 6HP30 transmissions. These transmissions are common on most BMW's. The common solution is as simple as one may think. The main problem comes from the valve body, solenoid pack and pistons. It is important to change out the current pistons to metal spring loaded ones so that they last a longer time.
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I what to say thank you Victor thanks to your video my problem is the buching I removed the transmission I opened and yes the drum is burned and the clutch and for sure the body valve need to be fixed .thanks 🙏🏾
You're welcome. Thank you for the feedback
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I really appreciate your help. I watch another video from another professional how opened the transmission ( Garry Ferrano) and Yes your description is so precise I opened and I have the condition in your video . thank you Victor
Awesome. Thank you for supporting
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Victor I have problems with the drum. I only find 6 disc drum Clutch , my one is 4 disc . 1question I opened my own and I find Is piston disch .my question is. The drum is the same in 4 disc and 6 disc drum? The piston disch make the difference to accept the 4 or the 6 clutch ( sorry to bother you Whit this question) I don't know no one else Whit your knowledge
You know we had once issue like that. Parts company send us a drum and it would fit in properly so we didn't risk to install it and ordered the right now. I wouldn't risk it honestly.
Excellent video! Clean hands and clean work area! I can tell you are truly a professional! Thanks!
Thank you for supporting.
Great video! I would love to see more transmission videos. You guys know your stuff on these and it shows. I love learning about these transmissions
Thank you. I'll think of what we could post out there. Let me know if you have any ideas or videos you can't find online
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I’m interested in knowing more about which cars use isn locks and which don’t. Also anything you know about upgraded clutch packs, valve body’s, fluid or general upgraded parts. If they work, if they don’t etc.
I would also like to know to interpret clutch pack adaptation numbers. What those numbers mean in terms of wear or what could be causing issues.
Also basic guidelines for maintenance and preventative maintenance.
So the earliest ISN I've seen would be on e70 X5. For example 2008 BMW 750i with 6HP26 can be installed and driven used without a problem. 2008 bmw X5 with the same transmission will have a problem with ISN and CAS match. All 8 HP transmissions are locked with ISN. We can reset them here. There is a also a trick to make a used transmission work but you would need a CAS module from the donor vehicle.
Awesome and clear content. Good job 👍
Thank you. Subscribe for more.
great explanation!! subscribed and waiting for more content
Appreciate the support ❤️
Thank you for the info you've provided us! I'm scratching all around forums and youtube, changed fluid, the 4 mechatronic seals, the 1 main and the connector on an e92 335d 6hp28 box, did reset adaptations (idk if it was a mistake or not) shifts amazing BUT 2-3 it feels like it slips, brings 100rpm up, drops, then shifts. Saw a couple of videos, same car on acceleration, absolutely the same rpm up/down then it shifts to 3rd. Torque converter or loss of pressure until it locks completely?
Amazing video! I had to watch it 2x because there was so much info in there. The descriptions were very informative and the logic and reasoning were super clear. Slow down just a tiny bit so us mere mortals can keep up with you. Thank you so much for posting!
Love it, appreciate the support. Thanks for the tip
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I was planning on a DIY for my valve body. I think you're correct about the small parts. I am a professional in other things, and I think it would make sense to have my ZF6HP21 serviced by a competent ZF trans shop. Does your shop do a mail in service like you talked about? Would you recommend I go with local instead? --Thank you again!
You could remove your valve body yourself and ship it to replace the plate and pressure dampering pistons. We could do it for you as well. It'll be roughly $800-$900. See what other places offer this .
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I guess it's very complex so requires a lot of time? To me, it looks intricate, and many small parts that need to be inserted and aligned correctly if the mechatronics is disassembled. May I speak with you by phone?
@@SteveWeltman you can call me tomorrow on ext 3. Google BMW ONLY Las Vegas and you should find out main phone number.
Fantastic informative video....well done Sir.
Appreciate the feedback
great video excellent presentation may l suggest use a scriber when pointing to fine points of wear on transmission parts but again well done how about strip down start to reassemble finish on 6hp19z transmission just a suggestion thanks Lee
Thank you Kate, still learning to deliver higher quality videos. Thanks for the suggestion, I always appreciate the feedbacks.
Absolutely fantastic knowledge.
Appreciate it
Great video guys!!!
Thank you
Very good video. I have fault codes 4F85, 299A, and P17E5. I was considering the valve body kit, but now I'm just going to scrap the car and buy something new instead. In meantime, it drives half decently in manual mode and I just erase codes when they pop up.
Excellent. Thank you for this great video
Appreciate Sam
Any suggestions for a boosted application using the 6hp26? What upgrades should be for longevity? And amazing video by the way!! 🔥 very informative!! 08 550i msport 200k miles +
Doing the solenoids and full valve body service is the best you could do for the transmission. Along with the new oil pan and fluid of course. Thank for the feedback
Buen día, excelente explicación. Una pregunta cuando la transmisión se contamina con liquido refrigerante que componentes de la caja se afectan?
Principalmente los discos de fricción. Lo que provoca es que se despegan las pastas de los discos.
Loved the video, I will stick with my 2008 Highlander Limited 169087 miles and going strong.
Excellent video!!
Excellent information.
Hey, Viktor! I will want to do a full transmission service on my 2009 bmw x35d, can you please make a video where you explain what are all the steps a mechanic has to follow and check to make the service right please? The mechanic that will work on my car has past experience with these transmissions, tho I would feel much better sending him your video ^^. Also this video is really informative and will 100% show him. Just subscribed, thank you!
Thank you so much, this video and you, where very helpful. God bless you
Just picked up 11 x5 35d, 170k,forward gears ok, reverse takes 2 seconds to engage, did pan and fresh fluid, still same issue, gonna do sleeves and adapter next, no faults present at tcm… fluid little burned, little material on magnets, date stamp on pan 2011 so never changed 2023 now… you think doing the sleeves and adapter between tranny and vb will solve issue?
Great job thanks for being so detailed in you explanation of the whole over haul. I wanted to see if you could help me try and figure out wether or not I need to replace the transmission on a 07 550i. Previous owner posted it for sale cheap because they had bought from Auction he drove for a few week when they decided to preform a oil change. When got vehicle down off lift, it no longer will got foward or reverse. You can feel it engage gear and displays on cluster but not at shifter. I have tested and changed solenoids and seals. erased multiple codes the permanent ones are CF2A and 5f2f any help would be appreciated.
Hi there. I'm so sorry I just noticed I never replied. Can you give me the description of the faults please. Most common issue on this model that would cause such a behavior is the gasket aka adapter sleeve. It goes between valve body and transmission. 3 hour job tops. If it's cracked it would loose pressure and transmission won't move. It would drive time to time and die again. Seen it s million times
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515
I get that and agree that is a very common issue, I have felt with a 750 li I bought to fix and flip awhile back. It had elec. parking brake and would switch back out of gear as soon as you would trying and shift out of park. I guess what stands
Out to me is fact that no mater what gear you select the driveshaft is locked won’t move at all. But rear wheels will spin also like never getting park. Which makes me think like a parking gear frozen or something but no elec parking brake manual hand lever. I took pics of fault codes I’ll have to find them I know had
Lost comm egs/dme, can loss codes, a whole list of them I changed sleeves and bridge gaskets. Selected gear shows on dash and gear selector. I’m scanner as well acutal and requested. Don’t remember which on but the says gear undefined. Also no solenoids and engagjng switching on or off in live data. Bad front pump, or trans computer? Let me know what you think thanks I’m stumped if can’t do some thing gonna put used trans with control module and see what happens. Thanks for your help
I've seen this before as well. When you put reverse and accelerate does the vehicle try to move forward? Clutches get hot and get stock together. Good news you can rebuilt it. Will replace clutches and steel plates in this case.
This man a legend true craftsman 👍👍
Appreciate it
I have a problem with my e60 535d the revs bounce and the car changes up and down gears it’s like it can’t decide what gear to be in any pointers would be most appreciated
It's always a step one to do a full service with Pistons, solenoids, fluid etc. And reset adaptations after that. Pressure loss is the most common issue with these transmissions and the start of all the problems
Nice explanation. Please make a video doing a full service for a mechatronic unit. It will be super useful!
I'll be honest, doing such a video might cause education of the local shops and loosing some of the jobs. Right now it's like a monopoly. I personally don't know another BMW shop in town that opens mechatronics. Dealership only replaces them. So we have a good leverage here. Hope this makes sense.
Lots of info on this on UA-cam. Search for Gary Ferraro.
any thoughts on fault code 4F85? stuck in limp mode (no gear higher than 3), park/reverse delays >2 seconds, lots of gear slippage before limp mode, sometimes cannot reverse the car after highway speeds.
also, best video i've watched on this topic. i may have to visit you guys in person!
Step number one would be to check the fluid level. Step two could be a damaged adapter plug. It's a gasket that's between valve body and transmission. Those are most common issues to check for.
I have the same exact problem except I don’t get reverse at all it’s just another neutral gear. Did you find a fix?
I have gotten 4F85. Not sure if it was one that I just had to restart the car or erase the fault code but one or other and my car is back driving.
Hello Victor. Love the videos. I am a Jack of all trades I think lol. I have been trying to get my 07 750li going. I did twice. First transmission when I bought it I changed bridge seal, tube seals, sleeve and pan along with fluid. It worked for a week. Then I changed transmission with a used one and kept my tcm and drove it for a few months. I changed my valve cover seals and all other seals that cause oil leaks on engine. When I finished that and tried to drive it I got a fault code 4e89 solenoid 1 or 2 mechanically jammed. Bought Sonnax kit and rebuilt valve body
but still have the same issue. I can drive for a while but once I come to a stop or slow down I get a fault code and limp mode.
You problem is TCM. Not the transmission or the mechatronic. I've seen it multiple times. TCM (transmission control module) is the back part that's attached to the valve body. Find a used one or from the donor transmission
I already got rid of the donor transmission with tcm. All I kept was valve body. If I get another TCM I will need to get it coded right or would it possibly be plug and play?
Also what is it about the TCM that would make it register as solenoids mechanically jammed. I test drove it one last time after replacing fluids and seals again and when I got home to back into my driveway is when the transmission jumped back into Park from reverse and I got the fault again.
We had these issue with the that exact fault code caused my TCM. It's internally shorting. A used one without coding might work
What was the resolution? I would’ve read the codes before starting anything
Hello WERKSTATTE,
I have a 2004 530i with a zf6hp19 transmission. When driving from full stop the car will violently shake starting at 2500 rpm. When I let off the gas it goes away as I coast. This happens in 1st and 2nd gear. If I continue to push the rpms higher as it shakes the car will lose torque with the rpms spiking high and the transmission spins resulting in no power to the wheels. The shaking problem also happens in 3rd and 4th gear, but occurs at higher rpms, maybe around 3500 - 4000.
When coming to a stop from 40 to 50 mph the car will 70% of the time throw a gear monitor code 0x005E5E and 0x004F8D. I will soon be replacing the solenoids. I am curious to hear what you think about my issues. Please let me know what you think.
Have a great day!
Best,
P L
I have a 6hp26z and have already changed the fluid, seals, and filter. I didnt change solenoids or valve body. I did reset adaptions and drive very conservative for 200miles. However, im still slipping in 5th gear and going into limp mode. Only when beendrive a bit harder than regular, otherwise the car drives perfectly fine if kept under 3k rpms.
@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 --- I have a question (2008 750Li - ZF6HP26 - 102k miles). Is it necessary to "reset adaptations" after completing service on PAN/FILTER, LIFEGUARD 6 FLUID, VALVE BODY SEALING SLEEVES (5), and ADAPTOR PLUG? My car is running fine, this is just preventative maintenance.
I have never replaced valve body plate, solenoids, or pressure dampers. In other words, if I simply complete a Mechatronic Service on sleeves and adaptor plug... with fresh BMW fluid, pan and filter is there any special reset or adaptation mandatory? @werkstatte-bmwonly9515
Brilliant video thanks. I have a question around replacing the whole gearbox. For example my e92 325d had 6hp19. I would like to replace when i do get issues with a 26 or 28. How can i know what will fit and run? Ive been advised its possible but needs to be from around same period car as there are two variations in the “computer”. My car is 2008 and I’ve been told i need a box from september 2007 on so it is “dcan” and not kline. How can i know what TCUs will work etc? Thanks
We don't have 325d in the US. I haven't had issues with replacing used transmissions and can signals. This could be a very specific issue related to diesel models
Hi Viktor, I have a 2008 BMW 750LI, I replaced the solenoids, the sleeves when I changed the oil.
I did not do the adaptation. I'm having this problem that sometimes, the transmission display goes away and I get an error message
saying like "the transmission is engaging without shifting". Then it won't run for a little bit, and then when it starts running again it won't
pass third gear and I see the revolution of the motor going as high as 4000. Could that be the adaptation?
any ideas?
Thanks
Hi, Do you by chance know what exactly is the difference between the 6hp26 and the 6hp32? I have the 6hp32 from the audi v12 tdi which is 1000 Nm capable but i want more. I read that it is basically a fortified 6hp26 but nothing specific. Nobody makes parts for the 6hp32, but they do for the 26. I wanted to see if i can get the strong parts of the 26 installed in my 32
So they are capable of holding more torque. That's the transmission they use on the BMW X5M and X6M. Parts are very similar to 6HP26. We have rebuilt them before on X5M and I do not recall having problem finding parts.
Nice information
What is the ideal operating oil temperature range for these transmissions is 50 degrees Celsius to cold
Preparing to do a transmission service on my 2007 bmw760li. I was going to have all the sleeves and seals replaced the solenoids and of course the pan. Now I have no issues with burned clutches or anything like that yet. But it sounds like to me that there's some more stuff that I need to do? I'm 60,000 miles in perhaps I should just buy one of those new bulletproof Transmissions they have for my car?' I'm not certain?
All you need is to open valve body, replace separation plate, piston pressure dampers kit from sonnox, solenoids, at pan, sleeves and seals plus fluid. After that you trany will be ready for another 100k miles.
Hello victor I just seen your video and am getting prepared to do a Mechatronic seal/fluid/ and filter on my 335D with 180K miles us. Transmission runs great might get a downshift jerk once in a while but nothing to really note *coming from GM auto's lol.
Would you recommend this procedure ontop of what I was already planning on doing?
If yes then it would be another month or two before I'd be able to get more funds and everything inhand, would it be worth the wait? This is my daily when im in the city.
What was your initial plan? Jerking is probably due to pressure loss. My personal opinion don't invest too much money when the transmission has 180k miles. Bushings are wearing out internally so with this mileage I'd do the basic service and drive it till it fails. Then replace it with a low mileage used one.
Excellent info! Do you recommend a preventive transmission fluid change on a 2011 Z4 23i with around 30k miles? It has no flaws, runs perfectly. We don’t know if the previous owner did any service on the transmission in all these years.
No, I would recommend the fluid in 80k miles range. ZF recommended 60k miles. Honestly we don't see failures much till 100k or so (unless it has a leak of course). So 80k would be a golden spot to have it serviced.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 thanks man! Subscribed.
Appreciate it
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 That said, the recommended fluid change interval is every 60k miles or 8 years, whichever occurs first. So the poster's Z4 was due for a fluid change.
Hi, will you make a 8HP oil change video? Would be very interesting to see.
Will do, 6hp and 8hp would be practically identical.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 perfect, thank you very much! Looking forward to it.
Thank you for this video it’s great
Can you tell me what happen on my A clutch, 632 value …is it wear or other problem ?
I did a service on it (oil, tranny, and all seals under mechatronic
A clutch is the second issue after clutch E. Bushings inside the transmission are most likely worn already. Have to remove and open the transmission
Hi great video thank you 😊 i have a 2009 330d e92 with the 6hp28 which i don’t see mentioned in this video… can you please tell me the difference between 6hp26 and 6hp28?
Thank you so much and greetings from Italy 😀
Difference is the amount of torque they can tolerate. 3-5 series have 6hp19 to 6hp21. V8 engines on BMWs have 6hp26. X6M for example will have 6hp30 I believe. So you diesel engine has plenty of torque that's why you have a stronger transmission
Did you swapped gearbox ?
Hi.
I've got a 6hp21 on m57 engine 2007 lci and the oil seems to be a bit cold.
Is it a thermostat ,if so were?.
Thank you
Is a 390 mbar value for clutch a normal for 175k miles? My e clutch is at 237mbar. I’ve got the 6hp28 in a 335d. I’ve also noticed a slight dip/jerk in rpm’s while shifting from 2-3. I’ve heard that a rough 2-3 shift was normal on these transmission and was curious what you’re experience is with this. Thanks
Hello.I have exactly same problem on same car . Did you get it solved, I am thinking of rebuilding valve body
Nice review save me alot
Thank you
I have found in my yesrs of owning a jag xk8, if you change fluid and change mechatronix seals , and of course the pan/filter you will avoid most of these very problems. And this is something you can do yourself by watching you tube. I know, i did it.
Very educational video!! I have a zf6hp21 throwing code 4f82. The car doesn’t reverse now. It goes forward and then goes into limp mode. Can you let me know what the problem is? Thanks
What is the fault code description?
Thanks for the reply. The fault code description is Ratio monitoring clutch B. I looks at the clutch B and it looks burnt. Does that mean my transmission is bad? I was thinking to replace all the mechatronic solenoids and seals too. But not too sure it’s the right thing to do since I saw the burnt marks on one of the clutch. The car has 216,000 miles on it and the transmission fluid look dark brown not red. Doesn’t look like it’s ever been changed or service .
We have had completely burned and melted clutches before. If you open it I would just replaced all the bushings, clutches, and steel plates if damaged. Valve body won't help anymore as it'll loose pressure from the bushings.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 okay good to know thank you so much for your help! I’m not an expert like you so I will get a used transmission and swap it out. But I love all your videos! Very educational! Have s great day Gary!! God bless you.
Thank you. What year and model is your vehicle? Buying a used transmission you need to make sure it doesn't have a ISN assigned to it. You'll run into different problem
Hello I've got a 6hp 19 JAX Transmission on my audi a4 3.0tdi quattro. My cuestion is: when the engine and transmisson is cold and you drive, the transmission goes in neutral when you go off the gas pedal at hill down driving. Is this normal??
When they warm the Transmission holds the gear. The torq converter was changed and services were made but anyway same behavier.
Greetings
I am in Canada and have a 2011 BMW 750xi with 175,000 km (about 110,000miles). No issues with the transmission but it has not been serviced ever. Should I be servicing it? If so then what should this service include? What fluid do you recommend? Thanks for the great video.
ZF fluid is the best of course but expensive. There are plenty of good brands that work just fine. Even cheaper redline fluid does the job. I haven't seen a car fail because the original ZF fluid wasn't used. There's always a different issue behind it.
I used valvoline max life. 30,000 miles no issues
Excellent advice, do you have a drawing with position of the balls and the valve body
Have to take pictures when you open them. They aren't the same. Remember they are spring loaded so separate them very slowly
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Hi,
I have this 2009 BMW 330i with ZF6HP19 with DTC P170E Electronic Pressure Valve EDS5,
I would like to know if you have fixed this type of DTC..
Thank You
Hi there, let me ask my main tech tomorrow. Can't tell from the top of my head
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515
I would really appreciate any advice.
Thank You again 🤝
By the way, you have a NEW subscriber from San Luis Potosí, México.
Great video! Do you think if a zf628 has 160k miles and no idea if fluid has ever been changed....should I change it or leave it alone? It runs good.
I'd replace it. It's an old myth that if you change the fluid, transmission might fail. In over ten years I have never seen this happen. Now I WOULD NOT reset the adaptation values at this mileage.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 thank you!
I bought a 318d E91
Car has 295xxx
Bmw dealer serviced up until 190xxx
After this km, no service history.
Should I flush/wash the transmission and change oil.
Or should I not flush it and only change the oil?
Sometimes you can feel the gear change, it shifts a little uncomfy.
Great explanation I have a problem with my 6hp26 transmission in solenoid 4, It’s always inactive, I change oil transmission, the separate plate and the solenoids kit, can you help me, thanks a lot!
Hi Arturo, If you replaced the solenoids and still have short or open circuit for the solenoid that means your have a bad TCM ( Transmission Control Module). That's the black plastic part that's attached to valve body and holds all solenoids. You can separate it from valve body pretty easy. You can use a used one but it depends what vehicle you have. Some of them are locked with ISN. We could unlock It for you but you would have to ship it to us.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Thanks a lot I really appreciate your help I’m gonna try with that, if it doesn’t work, i’m gonna ask your help Again!
Did the adapter sleeves and solenoids and pan, the whole shabang and my stock trans kicked the bucket 😭💀 8hp here I come 🤞🏾
I'm not sure if you can advise
I have a 335d UK 6hp transmission.
1) I have slippage in 1/2 gear. On either hard or soft acceleration, the 1st gear holds and will redline without shifting into gear 2. I have to let go off the acceleration and tap the paddle shift to change gear. But there is still a big delay....
2) Sometimes, when accelerating hard, I have a gearbox malfunction in gear 3/4. Gearboxndoesnt work and drives at a minimum speed. This clears after a car restart.
I've only ever had gear 3 or 4 ratio error come up 3 or 4 times in the past year or 2 off this happening.
I've chamged the metatronic sleeves and gaskets. Done 2/3 gear box oil services. Changed the basic serviceable parts.
Worked good for a while but carried on with the issues above. I have no chamged the gearbox solenoids.
I also did an xhp tune stage 1, which helped a lot with the slippage, but as mentioned above, it happens randomly but less often.
I'm scared to drive the car fast or to have fun. I try my best to minimise hard acceleration (works great when jt works)
You have to start with mechatronic pressure dampers, separating plates and solenoids. If that won't work you have to do the transmission clutches and bushings
How did you go about putting the xhp tune on
Many thanks
Will this be applicable to the 8hp also?
I know this is 6HP video but I have 8HP45 in my 2012 X5. I did trans service at 95k miles all OEM parts, 2 months later the trans shudders in all gears light acceleration. Then I installed REDLINE D4 ATF fluid and immediately all problems are gone. Is this because old transmission and new OEM fluids are a bad combination? I am thinking the lock up clutch in torque converter was slipping since it was all gears. REDLINE fluid is a bit thicker than ZF also.
Using thicker fluid would help clutch slippage. That's what dealerships do all the time, they have a car with a problematic transmission and they add transmission additive. Sell the car and new owner decides to service it a year later. Shop does the service and now the transmission has issues. So the idea is that the service is bad for the trany when it's a much deeper problem than the service.
I have a ZF6HP26 transmission on BMW 530XD. Transmission drives and shifts very good, no fault codes. But when i stop at redlight with transmission in D, the engine RPM drops to 400 and the engine almost turns off. The car wants to move forward even when my foot is firmly on the brake pedal. Any idea what can cause this? Sometimes 1st to 2nd gear is very agressive also.
You probably have clutches that are melted to the discs. You'll have to drop the transmission and open it. I've seen it before.
Hi, I have a problem with my bmw 535d when I'm driving along my revs are bouncing and when they are doing it, the car feels like its hesitating but then I let of the gas a bit it stops doing it.
Also got a fault code 004f6f.
It sounds like you have a misfire. Might be a leaking fuel injector
@WERKSTATTE - BMW ONLY i have a question if i get a code 4F8A for EGS (Electronic Transmission Control), Ratio Monitoring, Gearshift 4-5 what would that mean?
You prefer Sonnex kit over Transgo? Or do they fix different problems? Is rebuilding the valve body really that difficult? Seems like if you're careful and take pictures and such it's not a problem?
I've never heard of transgo. I've only used Sonnex. If you take your time you should be fine. Remember there are springs so be careful when separating the plates.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I've heard the separator plate needs to be replaced / upgraded? What to you think? FYI i have a 2007 750i. Based on what I've read, seems like I'll need to pull the valve body and get some numbers from it before I order anything? FYI, link to Transgo kit: TRANSGO SK6R80A
Yes there's going to be a three digit number with a letter in front of it. One side will have letter A and another side letter B. Very common numbers for example A053 or A054. You don't have to remove the valve body to see the plate. Just remove the oil pan and you'll see it on the edge of the valve body. Pretty big letters
how can ZF make such a design flaw ... Thanks for the good explained video
It happens. After all it's 6 speed. They moved from 5 speed on the earlier models so mistakes would happen. Time will test the quality.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515
has ZF improved these issues on later models?
I focus on the F11 530i touring
There has been a ton of updates. Plus they moved to 8 speed in 2012 models.
great vedio, i have 07 750li with zf6hp26 trans,my vehicle start going into park from drive aftere vehicle worm up,will not do it when it's cold, error code iam getting is 4E89 SV 1 or SV 2 mechanically jammed. I replaced all mechatronic sleeves and all solenoids, followed fill procedure engine off ,engine running at 40c .Reset adaptation,still having the same problem. i used redline fluids i dont know if that is part of my issue.!! could you please help me with this problem what it could be.thanks
That's common. You need to replace TCM ( transmission control module). That's the black part that attached to the valve body. If you can't find a replacement you can ship it to Bulgaria, there's a company called soft electronic that can repair it. If you can't find it DM me on IG I'll give you their email. You vehicle doesn't have ISN (individual serial number) so you can easily but a used one just the vin number won't match. Same scenario would not work on the se year X5 because it has ISN protection.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Thank you so much,I will get in touch with soft electronic,and will go from there. thank you again sir.
Follow us on IG @werkstatte.bmw and DM me if you'll have more questions
Hi there i just watched your video and well explained, im getting code 4F8D after driving to operational temperature before and after replaced stuff down below... I recently replaced solenoids, separating plate, accumulator seals with rubber version like OEM and valve body seals (5 pieces) ... all the values are A -134, B -50, C -55, D -38, E 0. Still on learning adaptation process... what causing for that code... 2006 530xi , thanks in advance...
Did you replace the clutches and bushings ?
Also what's the description of the 4f8d fault ? I don't know them of the top of my head. I might be able to help you
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 hello i am getting 4F81 even after changing pan,oil and valve body seals,and mechatronic seals 4F81 code defines Translation Monitoring Clutch A.What do you think can be causing this issue? And What do you suggest i do next?
Thanks in advance
1. Worn bushings
2. Piston pressure dampers inside the valve body
3. Input shaft is worn
4. Solenoids
5. Damaged clutches
2010 BMW 335i xDrive vehicles. The transmission may go into failsafe mode, with fault code 4F8D (ratio monitoring, gearshift 5-4 - plausibility) stored in the EGS. The cause is over-sensitive EGS software.
The fault may occur during a 5-4 downshift only in vehicles with either low mileage, a replacement transmission or after a reset of the adaptation values.
The transmission adaptation occurs only at a transmission oil temperature of 75 degrees Celsius or higher (167 Fahrenheit). Once the transmission oil temperature of 167 F has been reached, carry out the adaptation as follows:
1. In drive position D, increase vehicle speed up to 4th gear at about 25 mph, but do not allow a shift into 5th gear.
2. Allow the vehicle to then coast to a stop and keep the vehicle stationary for about 15 seconds with the brake pedal applied.
3. Next, with the vehicle stationary, change from D to N and back again to D.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 approximately 10 times.
Excellent
Victori, if the drum has a black stripe burn mark, just like in this video, is it reusable or no?
Marks aren't the issue. The shaft gets worn out and it loses pressure with the bushings. Replace the bushing that goes in the oil pump at least. Check the shaft with your nail, if it's really worn I'd replace the drum. If minor it'll be just fine.
mine currently sounds like the internal pump is going out; loud mechanical whine noise. Clutch E is obviously going out, 130+ms, and the 3>4 ratio code intermittently pops up. fluid is fine. done solenoids, sleeves, fluid n adaptations, any other suggestions? i have another trans and spare mech unit on hand.
In this case we remove the transmission, replace clutch e pack and input shaft bushing. You might as well can replace the rest of the bushings. Don't worry about rest of the clutches or seals. They never go bad.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 appreciate the response!
hello , I am suspected my drum 3t4 is bad the same drum you show whit the shaft bad , my question is what is the proper name in that part ?the shaft is come together whit the drum ? all the bushings need to be replaced? some advice about the proper tool to get the bushings out ? I really appreciate your information and description in the video .
We replace all bushings and the sungear (drum) that's the drum that comes in contact with bushing on the oil pump. That's the only one that gets damaged. Hope this helps
To add to the previous reply, yes the drum comes with the shaft as one piece.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 OK thank you alot , any advice about the instalacion in the accumulator kit?or any other advice in the valve body
Valve body has small Pistons that are spring loaded. When you separate it do it very slowly. If you misplace one you're screwed. When open take a top of pictures to save their position
2006 330i ZF transmission with 103K miles is stuck in 3rd gear. When do you decide whether you need a valve body rebuild, new solenoids, and a torque convertor?
So step one is to check the fluid level. If it's full we just replace the transmission because they aren't expensive these days. Of course you need to make sure you don't have fault codes for a stock solenoid. If you have solenoid faults then do the service and replace solenoids. If trany is low on fluid then fill it up and drive it for couple of days. If it shifts fine them do the service with solenoids. Also clear the fault codes and see when it slips. Clutch A and E are most common. For some reason 5 series transmissions are have better chance to be saved with trany service with solenoids then 3 series.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 thank you for the quick response. when you say "we just replace the transmission", do you mean you rebuild it with all of your recommendations in this video? FYI...i had a full transmission service (fluid, pan, etc.) done less than 20K miles ago.
If service was done already I would just replaced it with a used one. I don't know why but 3 series are more common to fail
TQVM Well done Video
Hi thanks for the video..please tel me I have bmw with 6hp19 transmission now when I Try put D drive it goes into gear but car wont move & no DTC in transmission module
Iv removed transmission and clutch E was burt and corroded..will that cause car not to drive?
Thanks
It's weird that it doesn't detect clutch slippage. Unless they were stocked together but in that case when you put the reverse it'll try to pull forward as well. Hard to say without seeing it. Also make sure no immobilizer or software issues
I have 6HP19 on 120d sometimes it slips under heavier acceleration and then thumps when it engages again. No fault codes yet. Can it still be saved or needs complete rebuild?
The way I look at it you'll have to replace the valve body plate with solenoids anyways. So start from doing that and hopefully you restore enough pressure and you won't have to remove the transmission. Make sure to replace those Pistons that damper pressure in the valve body. Just the new solenoids won't do the trick.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Thank you for the reply! hopefully its just that!
Good luck
2009 335i AT RWD with 170k km. I have no fault codes but under wide open throttle the car slips from 4th to 5th gear. It threw a transmission code and went into limp mode once. But when I turned the car off and on again it was normal again. In normal driving there is no slippage. What would you recommend?
At this mileage drive it till it fails and then replace it with a used one. They are cheap on eBay. Don't try to rebuild existing transmission, it'll cost more money and won't work properly.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I have a warranty that will cover up to $3k in costs on any claim so I’m wondering even if I have to pay a little out of pocket if it’s worth rebuilding the trans
I'd still pick a used one. Rebuild won't be better than a low mileage used transmission.
Got an 08’ 335i FBO with the 6HP tuned with XHP Stage 3. recently did a trans service replacing solenoids and Mechatronic sleeves, alongside fluids and trans pan. Transmission shifts awesome and adaptation values are within spec. One issue I still have though is when my transmission is cold, my RPMs will tank to less than 1k (even when I am in 3,4,5th gear) when I let off the gas. If I keep driving and let it warm up (~70F) then it starts acting normal and shifts perfectly fine.
Any idea what this could be? My guess is loss of pressure / hardened rubber parts in the valve body. Could be wrong though. Car has 75k miles currently
Viscosity of fluid is thinner when it's hot so doubt it's a pressure loss issue. Also this might not even be transmission related and caused by the engine operation
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 engine performs fine though. It’s just the transmission that acts weird when cold. It’s almost like it’s not catching the gears, it’s hard to explain honestly. Right when I hit 70 Fahrenheit on trans temp though it just magically starts shifting normal again. Have you ever seen this happen before?
@@rrokas my 550i 2008 110k miles does similar. I replaced filter, fluid, solenoids, sleeves, and also did Sonnax zip kit in valve body and valve body plate.
When cold my car shifts rough going first to second and second to third. Once warm it’s a lot smoother. However in sport mode I always get a big bang in 1->2 and 2->3 so I only use sport mode on freeway. It’s smooth like butter shifting past 3rd gear.
Would love to hear back if you diagnose anything. It’s interesting OP says it’s not pressure loss 😅
@@safoostar 0 to 60 had a similar issue but his was fixed with the solenoids. Sadly that wasn’t the case with mine. These transmissions are weird
Hi got a x5 2008 4.8. Their is delay for 2sec in reverse. What do you think might be the problem
I would try solenoids first. It sounds like it takes time to build up pressure. Not a common issue
Hey! I have a 320d with the zf transmission and from 1500 to 2000 rpm sometimes if I accelerate hard the car starts to shake. I have to stop accelerating and accelerate again to avoit the shaking. What can it be?
Hello! I have a question can i swap my 6hp19 to 6hp21 ?
Is it possible to upgrade 6HP26 with 6HP32 clutch pack?
I have 21HP I think as it’s e60 09 525d. Replaced sleeve and filter fluid recently.
Just find it stays in lower gears for longer. And at 1500 rpm mostly and 1100 in 4/5 gears.
Have a gear selector switch code and no message from TCM to it. However GSW works ok but not sure it’s on its way out.
Can you advise wat I should do in this scenario?
It's a valve body problem most likely If it's taking longer to shift it's a low pressure issue
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 thx for reply. I’m not 💯 on the delay in up shifts my Honda does same. Is the GSW error related to transmission or just the lever comms issue?
You would have fail codes in the EGS itself. Shifter won't cause that
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I also find when I release footbrake sometimes get a slight jolt and sometimes not when moving off from stationary. Don’t get the second to one gear jolt just moving off. Thought it was strange but doesn’t always do it and only on foot take not handbrake .?
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I also find when I release footbrake sometimes get a slight jolt and sometimes not when moving off from stationary. Don’t get the second to one gear jolt just moving off. Thought it was strange but doesn’t always do it and only on foot take not handbrake .?
My bmw 2006 325i is having transmission issues. I was on the highway when it went into limp mode and pulled over to the nearest parking lot. Turned the car off and then turned it on to find that the car jerks heavily when put into reverse (though still reverses) and then doesn’t drive when put into drive (Only revs). What could be the problem? Help of any kind would be very much appreciated!
Your clutches mostly got stuck from the heat. In your model there were two transmissions used. They used GM and ZF transmission. I'm pretty sure you have a ZF. You need to scan the fault codes, if there are no faults for solenoids shortage or jamming you need to replace the transmission. It is cheaper than trying to rebuild it.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I had one fault code using my obd2 scanner and it said clutch switch circuit malfunction. At the moment I am trying to get a different reader to see if there is anymore faults.
Generic OBDII scanners won't help. Often it'll lead you in a wrong direction and a wrong description.
Informative vedio
Hi. I got a Range Rover bmw v8 petrol 2002 and when warm it makes a screeching sound and slams into gear, do you know what could be causing it🤔 had gearbox oil change but still happens😢
How does it perform after it's fully warmed up? You have to check for fault codes and read adaptation values.
I just swapped a used 6hp26 land rover transmission into my lr3 and before I inspected it for burnt clutches, I had none. I switch the computer on the valve body for my original one. 5 miles down the road im started to get 3-4 gear ratio error. Seems like it doesn't want to go into 4th and pops to 3. What should I look for? Do you sell valve body's or rebuild them if I send it it in? Do you think this is my issue?
It's the worst idea to keep the old valve body. Use the valve body that came with the donor transmission and find who can program it and reset isn ( individual serial number). Tools like autohex can do it
@WERKSTATTE - BMW ONLY I did keep the donor transmission valve body, I just swapped out the black plastic with the computer so my land rover would be computer would be the same. I noticed a slight shutter/jerk on every gear at first. Maybe low on fluid after going into torque converter. I really wish I knew more.
Make sure you get 10-11 quarts of fluid if the torque is new. I've seen it too many times
hi i have the zf 6hp26 this is my problem hope you can give me some advice i i have a problem with my transmission fault code is p0783 gear load 3-4 if i drive using the j gate so it is in third it drives if i only go to 3rd as soon as i put it in drive it comes up gear box fault. now i have changed the oil the oil pan sleeve connector valve body sleeve and the rubbers tubes new solenoids and it still comes up with the same fault code .now when i went to put the sleeve connector in it was out of line but if i moved the white part that slides in and out to hold it in it lined up now should that part be able to be moved from side to side(the part with the electrical pins moves from side to side) thank you
Hi Patrick, it would not be able to help you without seeing the issue. Make sure you have the right part number. Those adapter gaskets are different on the transmissions. Also you have to open the valve body and replace pressure dampers and separating plates.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 is there a way of showing you the photos
I have an intermediate humming-laud buzzing sometimes and the cars doesn't go into drive or reverse
Any suggestions?
First of all check the fluid levels.
Hello sir, have a 2013 Maserati GT with ZF6HP26 35,000 miles. Refuses to go over 3rd gear and goes to limp mode. Code says E clutch friction element apply time ref/range. Replaced solenoids and new fluid didn’t see any gear components in the pan. Some gold metal shavings. Next I am thinking replace valve body with remanufactured. Do you think this may be my issue with this low mileage?
Shift perfectly before this problem just started happening out of nowhere.
Dealer quoted 35k$ for new transmission and shop 10k for rebuild 😮
Did you fix your problem?
Hello , i have hp19 with 302thousand km . Last 6 years 2 oil changes plus all sleeves and connector. When did the remap , clutch E dropped from 300 to 11. Very pleased but last 2 months clutch B went from 170nto 259mb. Any opinion
What about solenoids? Those wear out
I never had issues so i didnt. But suspicious for just 2 months big change in clutch B . Does driving style or oil temp in cold areas affect these values ?
Hard to say what causes it but my next step would be solenoids. If you can find someone to replace valve body pressure dampers and the plate that would be ideal
Thank you for your knowledge is there any reason the the car would judder and jolt when slowing down and coming to a stop using the sport button on my Bmw 530d e60?
Solenoids loosing pressure. I'd service the valve body, replace solenoids, pressure dampers. We don't have 530d e60 in US but that's a super common problem on these transmissions
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 What a guy, thanks for your reply.
You're welcome. Let me know if you got more questions.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Just want to say thank you so much for taking the time out to reply to me. May the good lord give you health, wealth and prosperity.
Aww thank you, good luck.
I have purchased a bmw 650i 2007 and it’s having a transmission malfunction, If this is the issue (which it definitely is) how much did this whole job cost ?
The entire job with removal of the transmission runs close to 5k.
Hello, thank you so much for your videos. I was wondering if you could help me. I recently changed the solenoids, sealing sleeves, and the bridge seal, now the only thing that works is the reverse. I have INPA software and the 4f81 code is coming up. I hear a rattling sound form the transmission sometimes it will catch for a second to go forward, and it will sometimes pull forward in manual mode 2nd and 6th just a little, enough to kinda pull back into the garage but it even stopped doing that.
Are you sure you filled up the proper amount of fluid? Did you have the car idling while filling it up? It sounds like a pressure loss. I would remove the valve body and double check the adapter gasket. Also make sure it's the correct part number. If that adapter cracks or installed incorrectly it'll lose all the pressure and do what you described. Also if you only filled up 4 qt or so it'll do similar
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Yes the car was running and I used 8qt. Is the adapter gasket the bridge seal? My old one wasn't cracked but I will try that.
Was the vehicle running fine before you did the service? 8 qt is the correct amount so that's not the issue here. Make sure you didn't mix up solenoids. Did you take a picture before you took them off? I always suggest taking a bunch of pictures.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 Yes, I took them out one at a time, Do you think they sent me the wrong seal kit? because I ordered all OEM ZF seal kit for 6HP19, is kit the same as the 21 kit?
ZF 19 and 21 are very similar but these adapters aren't all the same. There are several sizes that's for sure. Let's assume.yours is thinner then you would lose pressure. I'd remove and compare side by side..I'm almost positive it's a mechanical issue. Remove and double check everything. I also had a tech that didn't torque the valve body bolts and we had clutch slippage. We only found out when we removed the pan again.
My 6hp19 started with rotation oscillation when switching from 3rd to 4th gear, this at low rpm, followed by an error on the panel, which returns to normal when I restart the car. Scanning it, I got the error "0x4F89 - Gear Ratio Monitoring Shift 3->4".
Now in addition to the error 0x4F89, the error "0x4f53 - Torque Converter Clutch Error" is stuck
I'm getting new solenoids, and I've already bought a new clutch kit, bushings and seals, is there anything else I should look out for?
We just had the same car but when we removed and opened the transmission we found the drums had been marked. So it's been worked on before. This specific case we replaced all of the above and it didn't solve the issue. Please let me know what results you get.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 My transmission appears not to have been previously opened. I immediately changed the oil and the seals between the mechanics and the transmission, without success.
I believe that this week the new clutch kit will arrive and only the new solenoids will remain.
The idea is to download the transmission and analyze it completely. My fear is messing with it and not solving the problem.
I have a 2006 bmw 650i clutch pack, valve body rebuild, new soilinods, gaskets, bushings, filter, and fluid. And still slips. Mainly between 4th to 5th and 6th. Seems to have delay and also when it goes from 6th to 5th slips a little and same way going up. Why?
Zf6hp26 transmission
I could only guess the job wasn't done right. I've never had issues after we did this work, ever. Also if sun gear has too much damage it should've been replaced
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 thanks for the reply! I took it back to the shop Sunday. I'll keep you posted. They're going to look over it hopefully soon.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 so trans is coming apart today and the first thing we saw was chunks of either clutches or bushings. Not really sure but plan on digging deeper
Send me a picture on the IG. @Werkstatte.bmw
Werkstatte. I use a Range Rover 07 HSE V 8 4.4 and my transmission is a ZF 6HP26 . My car keep throwing a P0500 code. Which says Vehicle Speed Sensor "A" Werkstatte. Can you please help me with location of this VSS on the ZF 6HP26 transmission? Thanks Nice video. thumbs Up. Sorry am a year late.
So that's not the sensor issue. Don't try to replace it. It's slipping gears. Older BMW have the same faults and sensor will never fix it. You'll have to drop it and rebuild it or replace it.
where do I get the pressure dump rings replacement kit (north america)?
I have a 6HP28X E shift in an E70 35D that has E clutch ratio codes and will intermittently go into failsafe mode and remains in 3rd gear until you stop and it resets. This has been slowly getting worse. The transmission was supposedly overhauled after only 120,000 Km's. It now has 186,000Kms. I was sure the bushes were not replaced last overhaul, and now I have stripped it know that was the cause. On recommendation, I have out a Sonnax Gen 2 zip kit in the valve body, new ZF solenoid set, new DuraBond bushings. I measured all clutch packs and friction disk thickness was per original new plates, so I did not replace them. All other parts are without fault as expected from the low kilometers. When assembled, I have reverse only, no forward, and it even comes into reverse with Neutral selected. This is not my first 6HP26 transmission repair by the way, but it is the first time I have put a full zip kit in a valve body, only doing the sonnax piston set before. I followed the Sonnax guide. All clutch packs were air tested on assembly as normal. I have valve body out again and will measure the new solenoids tomorrow and see where from there. Any thoughts of where the problem may be?
Bushings, I've seen rebuild transmissions with original bushings. Also sometimes sungear is so worn out that you have to replace the bushings and the shart itself. Mainly that bushings form the oil pump to the sungear.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 As stated in my query, the first thing I suspected were worn bushings which was confirmed on strip down. I then replaced all the bushings in the transmission at rebuild, so this cannot be a problem now. I have chaecked the new ZF solenoids and all good. I am now stripping the valve plate as I suspect the zip kit has led me the wrong way, and I will revert back to standard if I see nothing else obvious.
Check drums and gears for heavy scarring. Sungear commonly gets damaged and causes a pressure lossn
I have a zf 6hp19 and I get a rough 2nd to first gear downshift. Just recently my car has been going into limp mode and throwing a gear ratio code 004f8b for 5 to 6. Any suggestions? I've been told to replace valve body sleeves.
Hi Dre, sorry for the delayed reply. Let me know the following:
1. Model and year of your BMW
2. Mileage
3. Any prior transmission services done ?
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 2006 325xi with 130k. I just replaced all valve body sleeves and put fresh fluid in it with a new pan. I also reset adaptations. The problem went away after resetting adaptations but then slowly came back.
Sorry for the question, you're sure you have a ZF transmission? They used GM in 2006 as well and they have that downshift issue. GM would have a metal pan and ZF has the plastic one.
If it is a ZF you probably need a pressure dampers kit, sonnox sells them but it's not a really diy job.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 it's definitely a ZF it has a plastic oil pan in it.
Email ZF directly with the fault codes, year and models and mileage. Their email is zfservicedesk@zf.com
My 2006 325i jerk / thud went while accelerating at gear change and coming to a complete stop particularly between 1 & 2. I did a tranny service but to no avail. I am leaning toward solonoids replacement. Any suggestions? The good thing is there is no transmission fault code, just abrupt jerks at gear changes.
Hi there, sorry for the delayed reply. Are you sure you have ZF and not GM transmission? Downshift is typically due to the transmission fluid loss in the valve body
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 based on my Vin on bimmer cat it is Gearbox9.50l (GA6HP-19Z Auto). I did tranny service with a complete pan and integrated filter and sealing sleeves, new fluid, plug adapter grommet and valve body seal selves change. The tranny service did not fix the jerking issue that's why I am leaning towards solonoids replacement.
We always replace solenoids but also piston dampers inside the valve body are extremely important
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 I m in Dallas area. Any recommendation for shop who can do this work ?
Unfortunately I don't know anyone there
I have BMW 525d wen I put to drive it won't run with couple of seconds it changes into N mode it scanned the error its shows di 420 code could you please help me with the issue
Di 420 doesn't sound like a specific fault. What description of the fault you get ?
Very common is the failure of the adapter gasket that's between valve body and transmission. Also low transmission fluid level. Those two would do exactly what you described
Can someone help me identify the model of my ZF transmission please? I'm not sure which of those listed in the video title it is. I own an E92 325i with N52 engine made in October 2006. Thanks.
Give me your last 7 of the vin. You might have a GM transmission as well on your model. It was very common.
Hey brother I just changed the transmission out and . I got this problem that on 3 to 4 th gear switch if I’m pushing the pedal I get a rpm jump it feels like it’s slipping but if I’m bearly touching the pedal it shifts fine . Downshifting fine just on going up 3to 4 th . Do u think it’s the solenoid , valve body or is it transmission clutch pack . Thank you
Bushings and clutches. But you'll need to take care of the valve body as well when you do that
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515
Thanks for the quick response .
And I kinda thouth that would be the case but was hoping that you will tell me something else . And if I may I got one more question . So this car is a 07 335
With 45 original miles . I got it from a guy who got it from some body didint know what they were doing at all . And u know how everyone tries to make these cars fast , so this was the same case . So the guy who I got it from had it for few months and he got a problem with the car slipping in first and reverse and I guess he figured out that he needs the sleeves . So he took the valve body down did change them and right after that he got a new problem with solenoid e so 1-3 no problem and on 3-4 shift it would act like it’s not engaging at all it felt like there’s not enough oil pressure or something cuz I’m a shift the rpm would fly up and go into limp mode . Unless u bearly touch the pedal but when u start pressing on it throws it in to limp mode . I did change the whole valve body same thing . And when I took the tranny down on the bottom there was some silver tiny particles, not a lot, but there was some. So I got 2 transmissions now the one with 45k and 4 and up are totally gone and it happened righ after changing out sleeves of the one I got in the car now and this one once it goes in the 4 th no problem u could step on it no issues and if I am gentle on a switch bo problem I did look on the sleeves they were good and the oil in the transmission was super clean so what transmission should I go with . Thanks for you’re advice .
And do u deal with engines I have a high idle around 1k will not go down no matter what I swapped out the whole intake, manifold changed out, coils, injectors, not helping
For idle do you have any fault codes? If you don't I would flush the DME. When you're filing up the transmission make sure it fits 8-9 qt of fluid. This is a common mistake as well.
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 there’s no codes . And how do I flush it . What do I need to flush dme .
Where can these parts be purchased
on a bmw e60 with zf6hp gearbox, would it be possible to fit an ea888 engine in this gearbox?
Oh that's a question I wouldn't know the answer to. We don't do such a swap here. Sorry
Why would you want to fit a VW Group engine to your BMW? This coming from a VW enthusiast. It's going to be an absolute nightmare to get the TCU and ECU to communicate.
Does this also apply to the 6HP19A that audi uses in their quattro versions?
They are built similar but aren't the same. BMW uses a transfer case in all wheel drive models and Audi has output shafts directly from the transmission to the front wheels. So I don't know if the failures are common or not
@@werkstatte-bmwonly9515 okay thanks for your fast answer 😁
thank you thats why my range rover sport shifs crazy