Stihl MS 261 Top End Rebuild | Step by Step Instruction
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- My 261 was having difficulty with hot starts. Compression test revealed low compression. Thus, I made a step by step instructional video on how to rebuild the upper part of the motor.
Aftermarket Rebuild Kit I Used:
amzn.to/3zjG9Gy
Piston Ring Compressor:
amzn.to/3xqQikc
Head Gasket:
amzn.to/4eGBH4K
Contact Me:
Contact.OldSoulMillennial@Gmail.com
(Disclaimer) As an Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from anything purchased in the amazon link(s) posted in this description. I use these funds to purchase new gear and reinvest into the channel. Thank you! - Навчання та стиль
Great vid Sir through out, machining building etc...........................definately no commercial BS here !.................subscribed and massive like you gotta be one of the best on the you tube platform, thankyou for your time
From what I could see your cylinder and piston did not look too bad I believed if you clean up your cylinder and hone it, polish your piston and install new rings the OEM equipment would work just fine. I would definitely run a 40:1 oil mix in your gas. The 50:1 is just for EPA regulations not for Saw endurance. You can check Richard flaggs UA-cam site, he has a lot of tests on running different manufacturers oils.
The reason the cilynder doesn't fit properly is because Stihl came up with gen 2 cilynder called slant fit wich is supposed to give a couple more HP and less cooling fins in aprox. 2016-17 . The gen 2 is almost available only from Sthil and was in there saws at the time of change giving a bit of weight lost and lower profile cost lots more $$ I have the gen 1 bought in 2014 with the straight cilynder. Very nice video!!
@@123456773934 So gen 2 has more power and less cooling fins? Sounds like gen 1 was manufactured too well. Had to ensure something would fail!
Ran the saw hard today, and performed very well. Switched to 42-1, no smoke so I’m going to stick with that ratio.
If I ever have to rebuild again, are you aware of any aftermarket gen 2 heads?
AMSOIL is the best oil in my opinion... I am 14 and have a 261 C-M and many other saws and machines. That's what they all run.
@@OliverDiGeronimo009 What oil-gas ratio do you run? I’ve been using 50-1, but I think I’m going to switch to 45-1.
Why use the decompression button its only 50cc
Why wear a seatbelt, its just a car
@@OldSoulMillennial it probably caused your problem
@@hidhshsj123 Please explain your logic. Are you suggesting it was just a bad decompression valve? I didn’t look for leakage there. I think I would have noticed are bleeding out when doing the compression test.
I use the decompression valve to reduce shoulder strain.
bad choice of cylinder kit! way too much cooling fin area removed. you should have bought a meteor kit. 1/2 the $ of oem kit. i did not have to do anything to the fins on the one i used for my 362. not sure on the 261, i used a hyway kit on that one. i had to remove some of the ribs on inside of cover and a small area of cooling fins. both saws i bought off ebay with blown top ends. i run synthetic at 40:1. used to run 50:1. too dicey
@@davidgoliath982 Even after removing the fins as shown in the video, there is still around 20% more cooling fin surface area on the aftermarket head than on the OEM head. Definitely going to switch to 45-1 or 40-1.
@@OldSoulMillennial ya but most was removed from exhaust side. the oem cyl. is designed in a specific way to be efficient with less material to reduce weight and cost
@@davidgoliath982 Well the OEM design failed me after 2 years. I’ll take my chances with this 42 dollar kit.
@@OldSoulMillennial the oem failure was not likely due to the design or the quality. it is almost always operator error. the oil may not be adequate and or the jetting was set too lean or a possible small air leak. also it is not likely that the porting in that budget cyl. replicates the oem porting that well. that has been my experience. i mean it might but........ chances are it will not have all the power it should which may not matter much depending on the type of use
@@davidgoliath982 My argument is that the failure was absolutely due to design and quality issues. I bought a professional grade saw with the expectation that it should last over a decade without needing a rebuild. I used stihl brand recommended synthetic oil. I did not adjust any carb settings until the rebuild. How can you claim operator error when I’ve followed all of stihls reccomendations. Hell, I even let the saw warm up a minute at idle prior to pushing it.
I’ve always been a stihl guy, but I don’t see any excuse here.