Great video Leonard. As someone who used to be 305lbs and who had the same problem with spokes and rear rims as you describe, I would recommend a steel rim with 36 spokes (which I currently use). I also agree about a Vegan or Keto diet. Those sound like hell to me. But, I have managed to lose 82 lbs (easiest thing I ever did) over the last couple years so, at 6'5", I am thrilled to be riding around 225 now.
Weigh over 20st and have been using Campagnolo Euros wheels for over 15 years. No buckles or broken spokes. In that time they have done over 15,000 miles. I have a second set which bought second hand for my winter bike that have done over 9,000 miles with me and probably a lot more. They had one spoke breakage on the front wheel but that was due to it colliding with a pedal on my wife’s bike when moving round the garage. They are not cheap but nor are they madly expensive. I May have a look at these wheels too though, although it’s hard to leave something you trust. And yes I’m trying to lose weight, successfully at times but it creeps back on. Loving your videos and they are helping in my latest weight loss quest. Really want to go on an Italian trip. Thank you and keep them coming.
Just had a look on his website and his wheels are £1100! That’s more than my bike cost. I’m sure there are cheaper alternatives for the heavier rider. Hunt Super Duras are less than half that. I don’t want high performance, I want durability and value for money.
I am a larger rider! I have used Velocity USA wheels, I have the same pair for about 10 years, 36 hole and have had no problems! They were also hand built and cost me $550 US. Great value! Velocity Deep V, they can go up to 40 hole and light as 24!
Haha first to thumbs up! And yes... being a Clydesdale I'm having wheels constantly being rebuilt. Currently I'm having a company called Velocity building me two rear wheels. Even changed my riding style going up hill, if standing on pedals I don't rock the bike side to side. But still at times managed to pop a spoke at times... Stay and well, keep pedaling my friend.
Great information Len. I like the fact that you research and find out what works for you, regardless of your weight. Yeah we all know the obvious but you're comfortable in your skin that's all that matters and I have great respect for that. Your information is worth while for any type of cyclist. Keep us informed...please. Ride on.
Blimey, such low pressures?! Slightly concerned, but I’ll give it a go. The state of my local lanes is quite shocking, so a bit of extra comfort is very welcome. Another great, informative piece. Thank you
leonardmlee it seems to be a ‘thing’ when I’ve watched mtb content. I tried my other wheels with slightly Lowe pressure last week, but it was still 90psi! Was comfy though btw, I’m 215lb of solid something, so not one of the skinny dudes. Will have to try a bit Lowe and see what happens. Thank heavens for sturdy rims...
Very interesting. I learned some things from this video, thanks. I just went to his channel to see what's there. His wheels may not apply to me, as I ride my bike (Trek X-Caliber) both on and off-road, paved and unpaved - and likely his products are beyond my retirement budget. My wheels so far are working for me, but it interesting to see what better would do, and, in any case, I got a good lesson on what causes fatigue in the wheels I've got. By the way, if you are gathering stats for anything, I am running on Bontrager rims with Schwalbe Big Apple 29x2.35" near-slick tires for a "most surfaces" riding capability, and I am usually in the 50psi range on a max 55psi tire. I am heavier and older than you with not as much fitness (esp. following our covid lockdowns here in NJ USA). Good luck, and keep up the good work! Thanks again.
Such a shame Drew had such a poor internet connection. Sounded like he had some really interesting concepts about deep sections - would’ve been nice to hear more about them.
I'm riding velocity deep v's with 32 bladed spokes & Chris King hubs on my road bike. No issues thus far with this set that is a few years old now. I'm in the 260-265 lbs range.
I like your channel Leonard, you have a great attitude to riding your bike, it doesn't cater for the way I train and ride my bike, but that's fine. The guy is trying to sell wheels. Treat much of what he says with a great deal of caution, especially the stuff about aerodynamics. To be fair he is no better or worse than the rest of the bike industry, many of whom don't know what they're talking about either. On a quick side note I also run Vittoria Corsas 23mm - CSA is important (they are actually 24.5mm) at 110psi. I’m about the same weight as Sagan so 80 kilos racing weight. There is no way that I could run at 50psi. It would be slow and very dangerous. Additionally butyl rubber is not air tight, that’s why tyres deflate over time. Ultimately you can't buy lungs and legs and saying that the rim section acts like a sail, in effect a wing is a nice construct, but real world does not work. Best way to get wheels for a heavier guy. Don't buy off the internet, don't go to the local bike shop, if you can, find yourself a proper local wheel builder and ask him to build you some wheels. He'll tell you what rims and hubs he can offer you and at the least you can see how they are manufactured.. Much of the carbon gear, is made in Taiwan, China etc. and that has become a centre for bicycle carbon layup. Much of it is garbage due to sub-standard materials, cost cutting, poor quality control, and whilst there may be some infant CFD involved, it’s basically more amateur night and people moving product. If you buy this guys or any other guys wheel and are happy with them, then great, but do some research and approach with caution.
I'm a Specialist Custom Wheel Builder also. I've built my own wheels for years now and I know what goes into the finished product. This guy is selling Kool-Aide. If you want a strong set of good training wheels get something built with a 3X spoke pattern, that is where your strength in a wheel is going to come from. Make sure the hub's spoke holes are chamfered, in other words use a quality hub such as something from White Industries, and use a quality spoke. I would recommend that you stay away from carbon rims too, they will tend to wear more quickly than an aluminum rim.
Hi Len, So pleased I found your channel, supporting heavier riders. I’m 5 feet 9 tall and 14 stone and sometimes more. I’m not sure what the ceiling weight is before a ‘larger’ person will break wheels, but admittedly had no problems with the 3 road bikes I’ve owned. That said no chance of breaking my E-MTB off roader! Wheels make a big difference from my experience but as a heavier rider I use 60-80 PSI for comfort/speed. No doubt that’s why what I call ‘gazelle’ framed cyclists appear to zip past me esp. on the hills! 14 stone downhill does have its advantage tho 😆. Keep up the good work, you are inspiring to many cyclists who would have given up by now & ride safe. I say it’s the good company, support & amazing views (here in the Peak District UK) that keeps me going 👍🏻
Just chickened out on rebuilding my track rear wheel. It would have required longer spokes for sure to get available rim 3mm wider. Also the profile would have been a squat mismatch with the front. It also would cost $108. Unable to measure unbranded rim spoke bed accurately until disassembly was off putting. The pinch flat tirepocalypse being the only reason for a change. 28mm tire wasn't supposed to fit but it does handily. 25mm has been better than 23mm, perhaps 28mm better than 25mm. I took a 28mm tire from my other bike so the experiment won't cost me anything. I've been carrying a new tire on every ride forever so I see no downside!
Super, very timely! I expect this advice applies for carrying heavy loads too, which is what I'm interested in for some upcoming touring and off road adventures. Plus, erm, I'm a bit heavy! Thanks for the video :-)
Hi Leonardo.I know you have always had trouble with wheels do to your " Natural Heavy " or something like that. I hope you found the right wheels and person that can resolve once and for all the remaining years of pleasure on the bike. Happy riding in the wind.
At 6'6" and 126kg I went through stock bike wheels. Luckily I found Velocity Chukkers that fit my 28 tires well. Thanks for this video. I will definitely keep this company in mind for the future.
Great video Leonard. Very knowledgeable fellow. I would say the proof is in the pudding. It will be interesting to see if you are able to ride faster with crosswinds and how the wheels hold up with time. I am not a huge fan of low pressure in the tires, but it does make sense on the cushion aspect. I use a floor pump and pump up the tires each ride till I meet resistance and stop. This has worked well for me rather than going by a specific psi.
Yeh....I keep breaking spokes at the rear of my ebike. I've got very quick at replacing them and if it's part of the deal - then so be it. It would be a very dull world if everyone was the same speedo super model. I have noticed that tightening the spokes when i hear sounds from them - helps them last longer. Calibration is key and I quite enjoy it. My rear spokes are 12g - lol.
Wow Leonard great informative vid. I suffer with spokes breaking and it really takes the enjoyment out of a ride. I would be more than happy to pay the price for custom wheels if it solved the problem.
I watched a video elsewhere that talked with a road bike tire specialist for the pros who indicated lower pressure's are typically faster than higher pressure's as the tire is better able to conform to tarmac imperfections rather than bouncing over/off of them. Smoother is faster.
@@jollygoodvelo For myself..I ride 700×25c when I pump up I usually set the rear at 110 psi & the front at 100. But I dont always pump b4 every ride so I do know that I have likely ridden them at 80-85 psi.
At 40 seconds you got me laughing,brilliant humour.😂🤣 I'm 50yrs old 6'2 tall and 15 stone. I know how you feel mate 👍🏻😂🤣 I've subscribed 👍🏻 Up the UK on UA-cam 👍🏻💪🏻😂🤣
Really enjoyed that. I assume that the very low PSI is only for Tubeless Wheels. If you run such low PSI on clinchers you would surely increase your risk of pinch flats massively.
It will be interesting to see if you get more punctures from pot holes and other bumps, I have carbon trims from a swedish firm ,rim brake and at low pressure 80 psi and under get a hell of alot of snake bite or whatever you want to call them punctures, as soon as I increase pressure near 100 I'm good, I also find it hard to believe that deep dish do not catch the wind or can suck you along in head or side winds, it just goes against physics to me but just my opinion from having ridden deep dish, good luck with your new wheels, cheers.
like your video's - im just back on my bike at 140 kg or 308 pounds with a few health issues - the doctor wants me to get fitter - blood hell its hard work -
I am 6’5”. Or, a brunch of stones high.....I am also 312 lbs. I have broken a spoke on two occasions on my Specialized hybrid. Both on the weight bearing rear wheel. It took about 5 years of use, but it’s amazing how out of round the rim is with just one spoke gone. It’s like a clown car..... My shop changed to a rim with stainless steel spokes.... so far so good.... SS is a softer steel so the idea is more forgiving, but we shall see. If they stretch, I may be fighting adjustments constantly....
"... it gets wider as it gets older" - I am sure it is not only about the tires ;-) few things from this interview: 50 PSI and less on 25mm tires - seriously speaking I cannot even imagine that the design of the tire even allows such pressure - the amount of flex of the rubber changes dramatically between 120 and 50 PSI - it maybe nice and smooth on the rough terrain but is it HEALTHY for the tire? and the rim? considering we are riding on NON-IDEAL roads... I am not sure but I seriously doubt - 50 PSI is even less than my handheld pump can do when I replace my tube during the ride - and I have never felt OK riding with such low pressure - not even speaking about catching the next flat tire on such low pressure one Just yesterday GCN uploaded interview with another producer of the wheels - that guy is telling a bit different story, i.e.: "weight of wheel is equivalent to ANY OTHER WEIGHT on your bike - i.e. water bottle" (unlike others say: "rotational weight is more important than static weight") provided you don't accelerate and brake every few seconds (when it would be disadvantageous) Long story short (on my side): I replaced my kit wheels on my bike few months ago. I went for nice Shimano alu wheels and I am happy like crazy. The first 2 rides I "felt" the difference from the old wheels - starting with ride number 3 ... I got used to the new wheels so I cannot say anything else about how good they are anymore - I lost the comparison part already. Yes, they are true, no rubbing on my brakes anymore having even 1mm space between the rim and the pads, they look AWESOME, etc. But am I faster? ha ha ha - as someone recently said: "speed is overrated" - I totally agree being amateur rider (although I think with my 12 000km/year I could say I ride a bit). I maybe feel safer with my new wheels but for sure I feel much more safe with my new tires on the new wheels. Last weekend I rode 150km with average speed just above 20km/h - does it matter for me if this was 20 or 22km/h? I am not going even to answer this rhetoric question ;-) I totally agree that for heavier riders more spokes and more material will make a difference but this is actually not a rocket science I think. And for sure 65kg rider with 8kg bike will feel much more the cross wind than 100kg rider with 10kg bike so the wheels weight difference in this case is marginal if any. Thank you Leo for this video and nice interview with the wheels producer - it is always good to hear other opinions to ... make our own. Happy riding everyone!
@@zyghom I think you miss the part where he explains, for low pressures, the wheel needs to be designed so that the tyre sits within the rims, and doesn't bell bottom out. If the tyre bell bottoms, then higher pressure is required to prevent the tyre from collapsing. So definitely he is not recommending that you go low pressure on a store bought wheel/tyre combination. The extra width of the rim (and stiffness required) increases the weight of the wheel but that's ok in this case because he uses carbon fibre. Conjecture on my part, but this may be why he does not make alloy wheels as they would be too heavy.
Spin wheels are Chinese rims and tyres Taiwanese spokes and hubs. They are put together in England. They are no doubt fine but don't pay over £250. Another thing, deep wheels are heavy and they don't get aero.benefits unless the front wheel and tyre are perfectly.matched.
like you, i am over 50 yr. old rider, have a weight impairment and cannot lose weight. its a long complex marketing scam story. most bontrager rear wheels will start to fail by spoke breakage on the drive side, then followed by rims starting to crack at the nipple holes. in the last decade, easton wheels would fail by cracking at the hub where it meets the spoke. adding brake discs will add a whole new dimension to wheel problems!
Nice video Leonard. Are the prices quoted on his website per pair of wheels ? It’s not perhaps as clear as it should be. I suspect that since the image shows two wheels and you are required to specify Shimano or Campag that it must be per pair but would appreciate confirmation.
Awesome content always ... Just wanted to know. Is he building the wheels and producing the rims or are the rims from China and building or assembling them locally ? Thanx
I’m also one who is not ever going to be built like a Japanese racing snake .... so whilst I do cook and eat reasonably and healthily ... I’m not giving up anything else because I don’t need to. Have to say that I watched the previous version of this then hooked over for a look, given the obvious need to not break what I sit on and in trust for your “lenbrand” ... I’m sure he is correct, I’m sure he is good, I’m also sure that I will never have the amount of cash needed to actually buy them .... in the same way as I have limits on what I’d do, I have long ago given up thinking I’ll be Chris Froome anytime soon and a grand or more on a set of wheels would pay for most of the gear (multiple bikes bought second hand) that I use now. Ain’t going to happen so for me at least in this real world
I'm 6' 2" and 200 lbs. I work out and in great shape. My problem is that for cycling I should probably be about forty pounds lighter! Had I known this before buying my three road bikes I would have bought a mountain bike with "road treads"! I would never be able to get the road speed out of it, but at least it would have held together. Even with proper wheels my bike frames wouldn't take my weight on a road bike. I have broken one aluminum frame just riding it. I have broken more spokes than I can count over the last ten years. I have replaced the rear wheels in my three bikes with four additional spokes and reduced the pressure to 80 psi. I don't even carry a spare tube anymore. I only go as far away from home as I can carry/push my bike. Two years ago I broke a rear spoke and pushed my bike home 12 miles while lifting the rear wheel off the ground. Not a pleasant memory. (Mike Scott, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)
Then your being sold the wrong stuff or your not looking a the right stuff. My friend is taller and heavier than you 6'6" 224Lbs and hasn't broken anything in ten years frames nothing. rides a skinny ass road bike. Just basic wear and tear. We're doing fast 50-60miles bike rides many times a week. He doesn't buy lightweight parts or parts that have weight limits. Sorry, but I get the feeling you're telling the whole story here there must be another factor. There are wheels (and frames) out there that have no weight limit and others that can take 110kg well within your weight that are made from carbon. The only problem I actually see you might have which plagues my friend as well, is tubeless conversion its not a very big success as he's heavy and many systems don't allow pressures over 40psi some only 30psi, so he has to use tubes. The downside of hookless rims
@@gaza4543 Thanks for the advice. Our roads in Ottawa, Ontario are very bad! I rode one of my aluminum bikes in Vegas on beautiful smooth roads for three years. When I brought it back to Ottawa an expert "spoke adjuster" couldn't believe that the spokes didn't need adjusting! This tells you just how bad our roads are here.
Maybe a deep section rear wheel would be advantageous for a Heavy rider who through sheer weight may combat Buffering in cross winds but as for the front which is where cross winds are the most problematic the need for the same deep section up front would be idiotic as you probably dont have greater arm strength than a light rider and so will have the same handling control problem effects I assume most of your wheel breakages are to the rear as the front holds a fraction of your body weight so this 'sail theory' to persuade you to buy the pair is merely a marketing gimmick Id go for a semi deep section front if you are concerned about wheel strength as strong cross winds will negate all the so called advantages you are looking for
Don't really have a wheel problem but the narrow rims might contribute to my pinch flat problem. May rebuild with wider rims. Also don't believe in the sail effect. Deeper rims have been near indestructible compared to vintage style shallow box rims.
Why? its been proven time and time again pressure actually makes very little if any difference to drag on the wheel. Same applies for MTB as it does for the road want to go faster on an imperfect surface, drop the pressure and a road is an imperfect surface (even in the alps). Let the tyre conform to the road, your wheels, bearings, bum and wrists will thank you for it and you're equipment will last longer 60-80psi for a skinny tyre should be more than enough for all but heaviest riders 30-50psi for 38 and above. It's more about casing tension then pressure and every tyre is different. Also, the added benefit is you actually suffer fewer punchers as you won't be hammering it into the tyre it will just conform to it and roll over the debris. Jan Hein of Rene herse has done many studies on the matter all very interesting reads and hes now starting tobe listened to buy the manufactures. We would have been at this point long ago if it wasn't for the UCI. Fit as wide a tyre as your frame can take and if in doubt go low.
Unfortunately I haven’t had any contact with them since the Autumn of 2020. I still have the wheels they sent me on my Cannondale and they are still absolutely fantastic. Real shame if they have ceased trading.
Video was a little bad but yea you made it sense great info I always bought 3nd hand wheels bought 1 brand new pair once amazing tho to know about sail about
I don't know why there is the fixation with weight on bike components I would rather they concentrated on making a long lasting and reliable product. Weight only affects you when going up hills the main elements slowing you down are air resistance and rolling resistance and they are there all the time. Luckily I live somewhere where the only hills for miles are motorway fly overs.
Interesting what he said about aluminium wheels failing. I’ve just had a bontrager wheel replaced under warranty due to the rim cracking. Nice lightweight wheel but no good for us muscular powerhouses 😂😂
I really prefer to build my own wheels. Currently have 22mm width rims with 25mm tires running 90psi. At 107kg I occasionally got pinch flats. With less it's a pinch flat every other ride. Maybe if I rebuilt them with 25mm rims things would go better at lower pressure. Wider tires not recommended by manufacturer on this bike. Silca Velo also favors wider rims, same width tire, and lower pressure. I still doubt I'd get away with 60 psi though.
david burgess Hi .... I’m surprised you’re on 22mm tyres, id just roll off that bike! At 89Kg I ride a Focus Endurance bike with 28mm tyres at 65-80PSI (on Alex rims) and it’s comfortable compared to my former GT carbon bike where every bump was painful thru the stiffer frame. At 57 I’m more so built for comfort than speed now but admittedly the only way to truly beat my PBs of yester-year & increase speed.... would be to lose weight! Try wider tyres see where it takes you.... & ride safe! 👍🏻
Intermediate fasting is the way to lose weight. The easiest way is, 1 meal a day. When you break, two meals a day for a few days. Then back to 1 meal a day. Back and forth like this, makes it much easer.
hi, i am not a native english speaker to understand the whole video, so i want to request your kind help. I have a bike with 700cx38 tires, my weight is 94 kg and i want to take my son to the school in the bike, lets say another 30 kg with his back pack. Is this tire enough? should i upgrade to a wider one? greetings.
I think that really depends on the bike. Most bikes should be able to handle 124kg but you really need to check the manufacturers weight limit and never be tempted to exceed it.
can't help but to react here, when I lower that pressure I can feel the hind wheel floating in curves and I don't feel safe and secure, so there's no way I 'd let my precious air out :-] /I have different bike though, foldable Tern Node 8 with 24'' wheels /Google it/ and I love it, saved me several times because I can fold it up and go home by bus...:-] Nice solution for big man like me 6'.2 /290 Lbs
Firstly the wheels look great and hope you get on well with them. Max weight limit looks like 110kg, according to the website and having looked for wheels a system rating of 100kg to 110kg is quite normal. Some super lightweight wheels can be as low as 80kg I'm told. My system weight is around 135kg, depending on cake consumption, so these wheels are no good to me, which is a shame as I like the look of the 45mm gravel wheels. I've only found alloy wheel makers rate their wheels at 120kg and above, I'm not including high spoke count touring wheels in that. Not complaining, I'm very happy with my wheels but I think this is another case of "what's considered heavy for a cyclist" rather than what's actually heavy in the real world 😁
riding at less than 50 lbs. of air is impossible ! i just got a double blow out at 75 lbs..... both wheels had pinched flats and impossible to repair and rim damage ....
With the advent of deep section rims they tolerate lower spoke counts. If the rims are high quality eyelets won't crack. What causes some spoke problems is spokes slightly too short. The nipples tend to break off at the shoulder and pull through the eyelets. Another is if using high flange hubs in a cross 4 pattern. The spokes break at the threaded end. Aluminum rims are still good and don't fail catastrophically without warning.
Very useful video as I am looking for new wheels - but at a £1099 per wheel!!!! No thanks. One wheel is worth more than my current bike. I'm sure they are worth it but too rich for my cycling budget.
I'm awaiting a pair of Aforce AL33'S from www.ryanbuildswheels.co.uk Made to suit any specification..alot cheaper.. reviews on the wheels seem favourable..
I am 5’10” and weigh 260 lbs. I have a Diamondback Haanjo 2 with the original Diamondback wheels (700c 18x32) and have never had any problems. I had researched the bike as being good for heavy riders. Price is great too. It is a gravel bike but goes great on pavement as well.
What would sorta work tacking upwind would be adjustable pitched aero spokes! All that would be needed would be a pro cyclist endorsement! Great gimmick tech advancement. Similar to Biopace!
As a heavier rider I can vouch for the incredible strength of Superstar Components Elite 38 Ultra wheels, built like something NASA would commission, never gone out of true, never broken a thing and very light for alloy deepish sections, if you can find a pair snap them up.
How Much? My ebike cost 800....... I couldn't live with myself spending that much on a wheel. Why not buy a spare second hand wheel on ebay ? i got an ebike spare 700c on ebay for £120 - with motor. Second hand.
Because I am sure a second hand wheel from eBay would last about five minutes and it would be a complete waste of money. I would much rather spend a bit more and be confident that it will last me a long time.
A GCN vid ua-cam.com/video/0QDnUkUaQfk/v-deo.html basically saying wheel weight is of no consequence. As a recreational cyclist a conclusion I had already reached (doing the same ride on totally different bikes.) The 'sail effect' from the wheels - I would like to see some aerodynamic explanation from suitably qualified experts. Surely if the wind can aid the rider then it will be just as big an handicap - it doesn't blow in the same direction all of the time! Think Hambini (aged 5) needs to have a look at this! I cycle camped for many years on home built wheels - never had a problem
Don't think there are ANY "HEAVY" pro riders..I think this guy is just a salesman and wants to get high $$$ out of people that have it....More spokes, no double butted types...Seems to be the way to go...Many carbon rims fail instantly with disastrous results...Alloy types, not so much...I know I'm NOT an expert, BUT.. :-)
Great video Leonard. As someone who used to be 305lbs and who had the same problem with spokes and rear rims as you describe, I would recommend a steel rim with 36 spokes (which I currently use). I also agree about a Vegan or Keto diet. Those sound like hell to me. But, I have managed to lose 82 lbs (easiest thing I ever did) over the last couple years so, at 6'5", I am thrilled to be riding around 225 now.
i'm a heavy set rider who just started breaking the apart the back wheel set. hub, axle, plethora of spokes. great video
Weigh over 20st and have been using Campagnolo Euros wheels for over 15 years. No buckles or broken spokes. In that time they have done over 15,000 miles. I have a second set which bought second hand for my winter bike that have done over 9,000 miles with me and probably a lot more. They had one spoke breakage on the front wheel but that was due to it colliding with a pedal on my wife’s bike when moving round the garage. They are not cheap but nor are they madly expensive. I May have a look at these wheels too though, although it’s hard to leave something you trust. And yes I’m trying to lose weight, successfully at times but it creeps back on. Loving your videos and they are helping in my latest weight loss quest. Really want to go on an Italian trip. Thank you and keep them coming.
Careful, Leonard. You are risking offense to the learning-disabled lamp shade community.
Peter Baskind I’ve already had one thumbs down. Maybe it was one of them.
Lightbulb moment right there
Just had a look on his website and his wheels are £1100! That’s more than my bike cost. I’m sure there are cheaper alternatives for the heavier rider. Hunt Super Duras are less than half that. I don’t want high performance, I want durability and value for money.
I am a larger rider! I have used Velocity USA wheels, I have the same pair for about 10 years, 36 hole and have had no problems! They were also hand built and cost me $550 US. Great value! Velocity Deep V, they can go up to 40 hole and light as 24!
I’ve been hearing a lot about velocity wheels today.
I may go this route
Haha first to thumbs up! And yes... being a Clydesdale I'm having wheels constantly being rebuilt. Currently I'm having a company called Velocity building me two rear wheels. Even changed my riding style going up hill, if standing on pedals I don't rock the bike side to side. But still at times managed to pop a spoke at times... Stay and well, keep pedaling my friend.
Yes, wheels for us heavier riders is an issue. There used to be a company local to me called Velocity!
Great information Len. I like the fact that you research and find out what works for you, regardless of your weight. Yeah we all know the obvious but you're comfortable in your skin that's all that matters and I have great respect for that. Your information is worth while for any type of cyclist. Keep us informed...please. Ride on.
Thanks Elmer.
This is a really good insight into this specialism. really enjoy this type of specialist content. Keep it up
Webmate Fran Thanks.
I’m 110kg in weight and I’ve found hunt wheels the best for the weight well worth the look!
Which model do you have?
@@leowilliams9757 The hunt 4 season rim brake version but they do them in a disk version is well.
Blimey, such low pressures?! Slightly concerned, but I’ll give it a go. The state of my local lanes is quite shocking, so a bit of extra comfort is very welcome. Another great, informative piece. Thank you
I’ve still to get my head around the lower pressure.
leonardmlee it seems to be a ‘thing’ when I’ve watched mtb content. I tried my other wheels with slightly Lowe pressure last week, but it was still 90psi! Was comfy though btw, I’m 215lb of solid something, so not one of the skinny dudes. Will have to try a bit Lowe and see what happens. Thank heavens for sturdy rims...
You are such an inspiration, love your content :-)
Thanks.
This guy has changed my viewpoint on wheels, eye-opening...
Mine too.
What was your view point?
The lower pressure thing works, this guy knows what he's talking about, enjoy ur wheels!
I’m working up to the lower pressures.
I ride around 50 pounds on gravel with tubeless. Can't beat it. Great ride ,traction And tires last longer
Very interesting. I learned some things from this video, thanks. I just went to his channel to see what's there. His wheels may not apply to me, as I ride my bike (Trek X-Caliber) both on and off-road, paved and unpaved - and likely his products are beyond my retirement budget. My wheels so far are working for me, but it interesting to see what better would do, and, in any case, I got a good lesson on what causes fatigue in the wheels I've got. By the way, if you are gathering stats for anything, I am running on Bontrager rims with Schwalbe Big Apple 29x2.35" near-slick tires for a "most surfaces" riding capability, and I am usually in the 50psi range on a max 55psi tire. I am heavier and older than you with not as much fitness (esp. following our covid lockdowns here in NJ USA). Good luck, and keep up the good work! Thanks again.
Hope you are enjoying finally being able to get out and ride after lockdown.
Very good video! Love the interview! Thanks
BTW the Cannondale looks badass with those wheels.
It does, doesn’t it!
Such a shame Drew had such a poor internet connection. Sounded like he had some really interesting concepts about deep sections - would’ve been nice to hear more about them.
I'm riding velocity deep v's with 32 bladed spokes & Chris King hubs on my road bike. No issues thus far with this set that is a few years old now. I'm in the 260-265 lbs range.
Yes, that’s a similar weight to me. Even though it’s very, very early days for me, these wheels are doing pretty much everything Drew was saying.
I like your channel Leonard, you have a great attitude to riding your bike, it doesn't cater for the way I train and ride my bike, but that's fine. The guy is trying to sell wheels. Treat much of what he says with a great deal of caution, especially the stuff about aerodynamics. To be fair he is no better or worse than the rest of the bike industry, many of whom don't know what they're talking about either. On a quick side note I also run Vittoria Corsas 23mm - CSA is important (they are actually 24.5mm) at 110psi. I’m about the same weight as Sagan so 80 kilos racing weight. There is no way that I could run at 50psi. It would be slow and very dangerous. Additionally butyl rubber is not air tight, that’s why tyres deflate over time. Ultimately you can't buy lungs and legs and saying that the rim section acts like a sail, in effect a wing is a nice construct, but real world does not work. Best way to get wheels for a heavier guy. Don't buy off the internet, don't go to the local bike shop, if you can, find yourself a proper local wheel builder and ask him to build you some wheels. He'll tell you what rims and hubs he can offer you and at the least you can see how they are manufactured.. Much of the carbon gear, is made in Taiwan, China etc. and that has become a centre for bicycle carbon layup. Much of it is garbage due to sub-standard materials, cost cutting, poor quality control, and whilst there may be some infant CFD involved, it’s basically more amateur night and people moving product. If you buy this guys or any other guys wheel and are happy with them, then great, but do some research and approach with caution.
I appreciate the advice. Drew is actually a specialist custom wheel builder. Wash set is hand made specifically for the rider buying them.
I'm a Specialist Custom Wheel Builder also. I've built my own wheels for years now and I know what goes into the finished product. This guy is selling Kool-Aide. If you want a strong set of good training wheels get something built with a 3X spoke pattern, that is where your strength in a wheel is going to come from. Make sure the hub's spoke holes are chamfered, in other words use a quality hub such as something from White Industries, and use a quality spoke. I would recommend that you stay away from carbon rims too, they will tend to wear more quickly than an aluminum rim.
I suspect the guy builds good wheels but the sail stuff sounds like fiction.
Hi Len, So pleased I found your channel, supporting heavier riders. I’m 5 feet 9 tall and 14 stone and sometimes more. I’m not sure what the ceiling weight is before a ‘larger’ person will break wheels, but admittedly had no problems with the 3 road bikes I’ve owned. That said no chance of breaking my E-MTB off roader! Wheels make a big difference from my experience but as a heavier rider I use 60-80 PSI for comfort/speed. No doubt that’s why what I call ‘gazelle’ framed cyclists appear to zip past me esp. on the hills! 14 stone downhill does have its advantage tho 😆. Keep up the good work, you are inspiring to many cyclists who would have given up by now & ride safe. I say it’s the good company, support & amazing views (here in the Peak District UK) that keeps me going 👍🏻
And long may it last.
Just chickened out on rebuilding my track rear wheel. It would have required longer spokes for sure to get available rim 3mm wider. Also the profile would have been a squat mismatch with the front. It also would cost $108. Unable to measure unbranded rim spoke bed accurately until disassembly was off putting. The pinch flat tirepocalypse being the only reason for a change. 28mm tire wasn't supposed to fit but it does handily. 25mm has been better than 23mm, perhaps 28mm better than 25mm. I took a 28mm tire from my other bike so the experiment won't cost me anything. I've been carrying a new tire on every ride forever so I see no downside!
Super, very timely! I expect this advice applies for carrying heavy loads too, which is what I'm interested in for some upcoming touring and off road adventures. Plus, erm, I'm a bit heavy! Thanks for the video :-)
Have a word with Drew. I'm sure he will be able to sort you out.
Guess it's time to begin saving for wheels. Thanks for putting this up Leonard.
So far, these wheels are fantastic so I thoroughly recommend them.
Hi Leonardo.I know you have always had trouble with wheels do to your " Natural Heavy " or something like that. I hope you found the right wheels and person that can resolve once and for all the remaining years of pleasure on the bike. Happy riding in the wind.
At 6'6" and 126kg I went through stock bike wheels. Luckily I found Velocity Chukkers that fit my 28 tires well. Thanks for this video. I will definitely keep this company in mind for the future.
Thanks Saverio, I’m sure these wheels will be ideal.
The trouble is that stock wheels are really meant for riders like us.
@@jollygoodvelo He very positive about what he doing.I think you found the right person to resolve your wheel problems.
Great video Leonard. Very knowledgeable fellow. I would say the proof is in the pudding. It will be interesting to see if you are able to ride faster with crosswinds and how the wheels hold up with time. I am not a huge fan of low pressure in the tires, but it does make sense on the cushion aspect. I use a floor pump and pump up the tires each ride till I meet resistance and stop. This has worked well for me rather than going by a specific psi.
So far the wheels are performing fantastically.
Found that very educational. Looking forward to your review.
Once I have ridden on them a while I will be doing my full review.
Yeh....I keep breaking spokes at the rear of my ebike. I've got very quick at replacing them and if it's part of the deal - then so be it. It would be a very dull world if everyone was the same speedo super model. I have noticed that tightening the spokes when i hear sounds from them - helps them last longer. Calibration is key and I quite enjoy it. My rear spokes are 12g - lol.
Fulcrum 800 wheels 28 spokes 35mm alloy rims a bit heavy at 1960 grms but strong enough to be used as gravel wheels and cheap at about £240 a pair.
Wow Leonard great informative vid. I suffer with spokes breaking and it really takes the enjoyment out of a ride. I would be more than happy to pay the price for custom wheels if it solved the problem.
Yes, once you break a spoke you lose faith in the wheel permanently.
Wheel good topic! Will get around to watching later. Thanks.
I watched a video elsewhere that talked with a road bike tire specialist for the pros who indicated lower pressure's are typically faster than higher pressure's as the tire is better able to conform to tarmac imperfections rather than bouncing over/off of them. Smoother is faster.
Must admit that I’m not quite brave enough to to too low with my tyre pressure just yet.
@@jollygoodvelo For myself..I ride 700×25c when I pump up I usually set the rear at 110 psi & the front at 100. But I dont always pump b4 every ride so I do know that I have likely ridden them at 80-85 psi.
At 40 seconds you got me laughing,brilliant humour.😂🤣
I'm 50yrs old
6'2 tall and 15 stone.
I know how you feel mate 👍🏻😂🤣
I've subscribed 👍🏻
Up the UK on
UA-cam 👍🏻💪🏻😂🤣
Really enjoyed that. I assume that the very low PSI is only for Tubeless Wheels. If you run such low PSI on clinchers you would surely increase your risk of pinch flats massively.
As far as I am aware, its for clinchers too.
It will be interesting to see if you get more punctures from pot holes and other bumps, I have carbon trims from a swedish firm ,rim brake and at low pressure 80 psi and under get a hell of alot of snake bite or whatever you want to call them punctures, as soon as I increase pressure near 100 I'm good, I also find it hard to believe that deep dish do not catch the wind or can suck you along in head or side winds, it just goes against physics to me but just my opinion from having ridden deep dish, good luck with your new wheels, cheers.
like your video's - im just back on my bike at 140 kg or 308 pounds with a few health issues - the doctor wants me to get fitter - blood hell its hard work -
I think you go really well and I enjoy your videos - thank you
Thanks.
I am 6’5”. Or, a brunch of stones high.....I am also 312 lbs. I have broken a spoke on two occasions on my Specialized hybrid. Both on the weight bearing rear wheel. It took about 5 years of use, but it’s amazing how out of round the rim is with just one spoke gone. It’s like a clown car.....
My shop changed to a rim with stainless steel spokes.... so far so good.... SS is a softer steel so the idea is more forgiving, but we shall see. If they stretch, I may be fighting adjustments constantly....
Good luck.
Hi Leonard, have you done a follow up video on these wheels?
I still have them and they are fantastic!
Another nice video Leonard. Interesting . Thanks👍
Thanks.
"... it gets wider as it gets older" - I am sure it is not only about the tires ;-)
few things from this interview: 50 PSI and less on 25mm tires - seriously speaking I cannot even imagine that the design of the tire even allows such pressure - the amount of flex of the rubber changes dramatically between 120 and 50 PSI - it maybe nice and smooth on the rough terrain but is it HEALTHY for the tire? and the rim? considering we are riding on NON-IDEAL roads... I am not sure but I seriously doubt - 50 PSI is even less than my handheld pump can do when I replace my tube during the ride - and I have never felt OK riding with such low pressure - not even speaking about catching the next flat tire on such low pressure one
Just yesterday GCN uploaded interview with another producer of the wheels - that guy is telling a bit different story, i.e.: "weight of wheel is equivalent to ANY OTHER WEIGHT on your bike - i.e. water bottle" (unlike others say: "rotational weight is more important than static weight") provided you don't accelerate and brake every few seconds (when it would be disadvantageous)
Long story short (on my side): I replaced my kit wheels on my bike few months ago. I went for nice Shimano alu wheels and I am happy like crazy. The first 2 rides I "felt" the difference from the old wheels - starting with ride number 3 ... I got used to the new wheels so I cannot say anything else about how good they are anymore - I lost the comparison part already. Yes, they are true, no rubbing on my brakes anymore having even 1mm space between the rim and the pads, they look AWESOME, etc. But am I faster? ha ha ha - as someone recently said: "speed is overrated" - I totally agree being amateur rider (although I think with my 12 000km/year I could say I ride a bit). I maybe feel safer with my new wheels but for sure I feel much more safe with my new tires on the new wheels.
Last weekend I rode 150km with average speed just above 20km/h - does it matter for me if this was 20 or 22km/h? I am not going even to answer this rhetoric question ;-)
I totally agree that for heavier riders more spokes and more material will make a difference but this is actually not a rocket science I think.
And for sure 65kg rider with 8kg bike will feel much more the cross wind than 100kg rider with 10kg bike so the wheels weight difference in this case is marginal if any.
Thank you Leo for this video and nice interview with the wheels producer - it is always good to hear other opinions to ... make our own.
Happy riding everyone!
Thanks. I am still testing out these wheels but , as I say, so far, I am really enjoying riding on them.
@@jollygoodvelo you will! first: they are good, second: they are new, third: this is your UPGRADE ;-)
@@zyghom I think you miss the part where he explains, for low pressures, the wheel needs to be designed so that the tyre sits within the rims, and doesn't bell bottom out. If the tyre bell bottoms, then higher pressure is required to prevent the tyre from collapsing. So definitely he is not recommending that you go low pressure on a store bought wheel/tyre combination. The extra width of the rim (and stiffness required) increases the weight of the wheel but that's ok in this case because he uses carbon fibre. Conjecture on my part, but this may be why he does not make alloy wheels as they would be too heavy.
Interesting interview. 👍
Thanks.
Thanks! Great suggestions
Spin wheels are Chinese rims and tyres Taiwanese spokes and hubs. They are put together in England. They are no doubt fine but don't pay over £250. Another thing, deep wheels are heavy and they don't get aero.benefits unless the front wheel and tyre are perfectly.matched.
like you, i am over 50 yr. old rider, have a weight impairment and cannot lose weight. its a long complex marketing scam story. most bontrager rear wheels will start to fail by spoke breakage on the drive side, then followed by rims starting to crack at the nipple holes. in the last decade, easton wheels would fail by cracking at the hub where it meets the spoke. adding brake discs will add a whole new dimension to wheel problems!
Nice video Leonard. Are the prices quoted on his website per pair of wheels ? It’s not perhaps as clear as it should be. I suspect that since the image shows two wheels and you are required to specify Shimano or Campag that it must be per pair but would appreciate confirmation.
I would imagine it is for a pair.
Im inspired. Would be nice to have a breakdown of your bike.
Awesome content always ...
Just wanted to know. Is he building the wheels and producing the rims or are the rims from China and building or assembling them locally ? Thanx
He’s building them in the U.K.
Elephant in the room however is that you placed a new set of wheels on a Cannondale.
I’m also one who is not ever going to be built like a Japanese racing snake .... so whilst I do cook and eat reasonably and healthily ... I’m not giving up anything else because I don’t need to.
Have to say that I watched the previous version of this then hooked over for a look, given the obvious need to not break what I sit on and in trust for your “lenbrand” ... I’m sure he is correct, I’m sure he is good, I’m also sure that I will never have the amount of cash needed to actually buy them ....
in the same way as I have limits on what I’d do, I have long ago given up thinking I’ll be Chris Froome anytime soon and a grand or more on a set of wheels would pay for most of the gear (multiple bikes bought second hand) that I use now. Ain’t going to happen so for me at least in this real world
Nice. I have been looking at wheels and looking for something stronger than what is out there.
Get in touch with Drew he will sort you out.
I'm 6' 2" and 200 lbs. I work out and in great shape. My problem is that for cycling I should probably be about forty pounds lighter! Had I known this before buying my three road bikes I would have bought a mountain bike with "road treads"! I would never be able to get the road speed out of it, but at least it would have held together. Even with proper wheels my bike frames wouldn't take my weight on a road bike. I have broken one aluminum frame just riding it. I have broken more spokes than I can count over the last ten years. I have replaced the rear wheels in my three bikes with four additional spokes and reduced the pressure to 80 psi. I don't even carry a spare tube anymore. I only go as far away from home as I can carry/push my bike. Two years ago I broke a rear spoke and pushed my bike home 12 miles while lifting the rear wheel off the ground. Not a pleasant memory. (Mike Scott, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)
Then your being sold the wrong stuff or your not looking a the right stuff. My friend is taller and heavier than you 6'6" 224Lbs and hasn't broken anything in ten years frames nothing. rides a skinny ass road bike. Just basic wear and tear. We're doing fast 50-60miles bike rides many times a week. He doesn't buy lightweight parts or parts that have weight limits. Sorry, but I get the feeling you're telling the whole story here there must be another factor. There are wheels (and frames) out there that have no weight limit and others that can take 110kg well within your weight that are made from carbon. The only problem I actually see you might have which plagues my friend as well, is tubeless conversion its not a very big success as he's heavy and many systems don't allow pressures over 40psi some only 30psi, so he has to use tubes. The downside of hookless rims
@@gaza4543 Thanks for the advice. Our roads in Ottawa, Ontario are very bad! I rode one of my aluminum bikes in Vegas on beautiful smooth roads for three years. When I brought it back to Ottawa an expert "spoke adjuster" couldn't believe that the spokes didn't need adjusting! This tells you just how bad our roads are here.
Maybe a deep section rear wheel would be advantageous for a Heavy rider who through sheer weight may combat Buffering in cross winds but as for the front which is where cross winds are the most problematic the need for the same deep section up front would be idiotic as you probably dont have greater arm strength than a light rider and so will have the same handling control problem effects
I assume most of your wheel breakages are to the rear as the front holds a fraction of your body weight so this 'sail theory' to persuade you to buy the pair is merely a marketing gimmick
Id go for a semi deep section front if you are concerned about wheel strength as strong cross winds will negate all the so called advantages you are looking for
Interesting take on that. So far, I actually think I can feel the sail effect.
Don't really have a wheel problem but the narrow rims might contribute to my pinch flat problem. May rebuild with wider rims. Also don't believe in the sail effect. Deeper rims have been near indestructible compared to vintage style shallow box rims.
Damn, that was interesting. Can’t get my head around such low psi though.
Me too. I’ll be slowing reducing my pressure over time.
On a mountain bike I run about 18 psi. Road bike no lower than 90
Why? its been proven time and time again pressure actually makes very little if any difference to drag on the wheel. Same applies for MTB as it does for the road want to go faster on an imperfect surface, drop the pressure and a road is an imperfect surface (even in the alps). Let the tyre conform to the road, your wheels, bearings, bum and wrists will thank you for it and you're equipment will last longer 60-80psi for a skinny tyre should be more than enough for all but heaviest riders 30-50psi for 38 and above. It's more about casing tension then pressure and every tyre is different. Also, the added benefit is you actually suffer fewer punchers as you won't be hammering it into the tyre it will just conform to it and roll over the debris. Jan Hein of Rene herse has done many studies on the matter all very interesting reads and hes now starting tobe listened to buy the manufactures. We would have been at this point long ago if it wasn't for the UCI. Fit as wide a tyre as your frame can take and if in doubt go low.
Low pressure is fine but you will risk punctures more.
Can you do review on how you went with the wheels and I wonder do they actually offer worldwide shiiping to Australia ,?
The review is coming and I am sure they will ship to Australia. Loving them so far.
Leonard, thank you for this video, what video cameras do you use?
I use several. My main on the bike one is a GoPro hero 6 and 7 and for the other stuff its a Sony a6400 and a Panasonic AF101.
Looks spin on these closed down as not seen any recent media and contact email address doesn’t exist. Do you continue to use the wheels?
Unfortunately I haven’t had any contact with them since the Autumn of 2020. I still have the wheels they sent me on my Cannondale and they are still absolutely fantastic. Real shame if they have ceased trading.
115kgs on a Trek Domane, Aeolus Pro 3V TLR wheels, 1500 road miles, no problems..
any advice for shopping for jerseys for bigger fellas?
Try the ones I’m selling: godfrey.co.uk/club/jollygoodvelo
Video was a little bad but yea you made it sense great info I always bought 3nd hand wheels bought 1 brand new pair once amazing tho to know about sail about
I mad 2nd hand wheels lol
Mean pmsl
Yes, the internet connection wasn’t the best.
great content thanks
I'm naturally thin but at 6'4" I am still 190lbs and I need deep Aero rims to get enough strength to keep spokes in the wheels.
I don't know why there is the fixation with weight on bike components I would rather they concentrated on making a long lasting and reliable product. Weight only affects you when going up hills the main elements slowing you down are air resistance and rolling resistance and they are there all the time. Luckily I live somewhere where the only hills for miles are motorway fly overs.
Yes, I would take strong and reliable any day.
I was looking for that Amazon recommendation link🤣
It’s not on Amazon. It’s from here: spinonthese.com
Hey Leonard, what's a good saddle for heavier riders?
You can get a free saddle fit at selected bike shops with the Selle Italia system. Tells you exactly the saddle you need.
@@jollygoodvelo what saddle are you using? We dont have that system here locally
@@jonweeee I have a Selle Italia one. I bet there is one locally. Go on to the Selle Italia website and there is an interactive map.
@@jollygoodvelo which model from Selle Italia? I will go and check out the website
What's up with their site?? I don't see any inventory..
nice..hope you found wheels that give you what you're looking for..
Me too.
Very helpful. Thanks
Interesting what he said about aluminium wheels failing. I’ve just had a bontrager wheel replaced under warranty due to the rim cracking. Nice lightweight wheel but no good for us muscular powerhouses 😂😂
The whole reason this all started for me was because my Bontrager rims went on my Trek.
I really prefer to build my own wheels. Currently have 22mm width rims with 25mm tires running 90psi. At 107kg I occasionally got pinch flats. With less it's a pinch flat every other ride. Maybe if I rebuilt them with 25mm rims things would go better at lower pressure. Wider tires not recommended by manufacturer on this bike. Silca Velo also favors wider rims, same width tire, and lower pressure. I still doubt I'd get away with 60 psi though.
david burgess Hi .... I’m surprised you’re on 22mm tyres, id just roll off that bike! At 89Kg I ride a Focus Endurance bike with 28mm tyres at 65-80PSI (on Alex rims) and it’s comfortable compared to my former GT carbon bike where every bump was painful thru the stiffer frame. At 57 I’m more so built for comfort than speed now but admittedly the only way to truly beat my PBs of yester-year & increase speed.... would be to lose weight! Try wider tyres see where it takes you.... & ride safe! 👍🏻
I think you're now riding harder and putting more watts so the components could get damage sometimes plus wear n tear.
Intermediate fasting is the way to lose weight. The easiest way is, 1 meal a day. When you break, two meals a day for a few days. Then back to 1 meal a day. Back and forth like this, makes it much easer.
hi, i am not a native english speaker to understand the whole video, so i want to request your kind help. I have a bike with 700cx38 tires, my weight is 94 kg and i want to take my son to the school in the bike, lets say another 30 kg with his back pack. Is this tire enough? should i upgrade to a wider one?
greetings.
I think that really depends on the bike. Most bikes should be able to handle 124kg but you really need to check the manufacturers weight limit and never be tempted to exceed it.
Great stuff Leonard. It's not the bodyweight, it's the massive cojones you carry.
I had to look cojones up.
can't help but to react here, when I lower that pressure I can feel the hind wheel floating in curves and I don't feel safe and secure, so there's no way I 'd let my precious air out :-] /I have different bike though, foldable Tern Node 8 with 24'' wheels /Google it/ and I love it, saved me several times because I can fold it up and go home by bus...:-] Nice solution for big man like me 6'.2 /290 Lbs
Yeah, I’m not quite brave enough to lower my tyre pressure just yet.
I am interested but will wait for a long term review and it sounds expensive.
They aren’t cheap but then they are hand built, high performance custom wheels.
Firstly the wheels look great and hope you get on well with them. Max weight limit looks like 110kg, according to the website and having looked for wheels a system rating of 100kg to 110kg is quite normal. Some super lightweight wheels can be as low as 80kg I'm told. My system weight is around 135kg, depending on cake consumption, so these wheels are no good to me, which is a shame as I like the look of the 45mm gravel wheels. I've only found alloy wheel makers rate their wheels at 120kg and above, I'm not including high spoke count touring wheels in that. Not complaining, I'm very happy with my wheels but I think this is another case of "what's considered heavy for a cyclist" rather than what's actually heavy in the real world 😁
Yes, and heavy has to be taken into context with someone’s height.
What tire size and pressure are you using??
I usually ride around 90 psi with 28mm tyres.
riding at less than 50 lbs. of air is impossible ! i just got a double blow out at 75 lbs..... both wheels had pinched flats and impossible to repair and rim damage ....
All his wheels are 24 spokes. If breakages are a problem, why is the trend away from 36 which is what I have on my road bike?
I think these wheels are going additional strength from the overall design.
With the advent of deep section rims they tolerate lower spoke counts. If the rims are high quality eyelets won't crack. What causes some spoke problems is spokes slightly too short. The nipples tend to break off at the shoulder and pull through the eyelets. Another is if using high flange hubs in a cross 4 pattern. The spokes break at the threaded end. Aluminum rims are still good and don't fail catastrophically without warning.
A Monday release Leo! I'm all out of sync🤪
Jem Jones I know. Thrown me out, too.
Very useful video as I am looking for new wheels - but at a £1099 per wheel!!!! No thanks. One wheel is worth more than my current bike. I'm sure they are worth it but too rich for my cycling budget.
I thought that was for the pair?
@@jollygoodvelo well, I put 2 in the cart and it was over £2k!! Unless it was two pairs. Either way, still too much for me. Loving your work tho!
I'm awaiting a pair of Aforce AL33'S from www.ryanbuildswheels.co.uk
Made to suit any specification..alot cheaper.. reviews on the wheels seem favourable..
@@spb4900 www.ryanbuildswheels.co.uk
I haven't finished listening to the whole video but what is the definition of a 'heavy' rider? I run 200lbs, am I heavy?
I would say that is starting to get heavy but I will add to that that I am heavier than you!
I am 5’10” and weigh 260 lbs. I have a Diamondback Haanjo 2 with the original Diamondback wheels (700c 18x32) and have never had any problems. I had researched the bike as being good for heavy riders. Price is great too. It is a gravel bike but goes great on pavement as well.
Interesting, although I can’t grasp the crosswind science/ sorcery of which he speaks🤔. Unless you are somehow “tacking “ up the road.
Must admit that I don’t quite understand it. Just ridden on them and the do seem to be faster in the wind, though.
leonardmlee .....Dear Hambini......
snafujag100 Oh goodness, don’t get him started.
What would sorta work tacking upwind would be adjustable pitched aero spokes! All that would be needed would be a pro cyclist endorsement! Great gimmick tech advancement. Similar to Biopace!
@@snafujag100 100% marketing hype. Get em Hambini!
That was 22mm wide rims and 25mm tires.
Nice work 💪
Sub + 👍
Keep more video's coming 📹
As a heavier rider I can vouch for the incredible strength of Superstar Components Elite 38 Ultra wheels, built like something NASA would commission, never gone out of true, never broken a thing and very light for alloy deepish sections, if you can find a pair snap them up.
Must admit that I’ve never heard of them.
Went on their website (Spin On These) and it looks like their rims start at $1370 US and range all the way up to $2600 US per pair. Yikes.
You get what you pay for. I once bought a set of cheap ($100) Chinese wheels and they lasted two and a half months.
very interesting ✌🧐
Thanks.
I loved the start of the video . I like my pudding , so I’m not giving it up ! Fuck you haters 😂
That’s about the long and the short of it.
How Much? My ebike cost 800....... I couldn't live with myself spending that much on a wheel. Why not buy a spare second hand wheel on ebay ? i got an ebike spare 700c on ebay for £120 - with motor. Second hand.
Because I am sure a second hand wheel from eBay would last about five minutes and it would be a complete waste of money. I would much rather spend a bit more and be confident that it will last me a long time.
By let's Crack on I got so f### off lmao
So,... The wider I get (fatter) I will become a bigger wind sail surface and should be able to go faster... I'll take another doughnut, please...
Me too. I should be very aero.
For the algorithm 🤓🥳💪👏🤙🤔😎
I don't understand why you don't change up the diet though. I really don't.
Fortunately you don’t have to worry your pretty little head about it.
A GCN vid ua-cam.com/video/0QDnUkUaQfk/v-deo.html basically saying wheel weight is of no consequence. As a recreational cyclist a conclusion I had already reached (doing the same ride on totally different bikes.) The 'sail effect' from the wheels - I would like to see some aerodynamic explanation from suitably qualified experts. Surely if the wind can aid the rider then it will be just as big an handicap - it doesn't blow in the same direction all of the time!
Think Hambini (aged 5) needs to have a look at this!
I cycle camped for many years on home built wheels - never had a problem
Did you know the obvious solution is....oh, okay.
(you and me, both)
Ha ha!
Not exactly a chiseled Adonis myself but also far from a sack of custard!
👍
You aint heavy, you're my brother...cyclist
Thanks.
The wheel is not the problem its the roads lol
Especially here in the U.K.
Don't think there are ANY "HEAVY" pro riders..I think this guy is just a salesman and wants to get high $$$ out of people that have it....More spokes, no double butted types...Seems to be the way to go...Many carbon rims fail instantly with disastrous results...Alloy types, not so much...I know I'm NOT an expert, BUT.. :-)