Hey Dave, refrigeration technician here. Just a friendly suggestion for doing AC work: get a refrigerant leak detector. I really love my Inficon D-Tek Stratus, it’s pricey, but instead of doing all this nonsense looking for dye, visible oil, etc., you can just wave your wand around and find your leaks. Instead of pulling the dash apart, just wave your wand in front of the vents while there is a refrigerant charge in the vehicle and you’ll be able to find out in just a few minutes. Just my 2¢ but this is an invaluable tool for any air conditioning work.
I have a SnapOn “sniffer” but man you can blow on that thing and it’ll pick up refrigerant on your breath. Hahahahaha. It has worked for me though about 50% of the time.
Yeah and that’s why I love my stratus. Somewhere in the ballpark of $1200 but it has a ppm readout and is incredibly sensitive but also accurate and less prone to false alarms. I’ve used Fieldpiece and other less precise brands but the stratus has ruined me. Bacharach H10 is another good choice too but it’s outdated at this point and will not work with HFO refrigerants like 1234yf.
Charge system with nitrogen after evacuating it spray cal blue on all connections look for bubbles. Big bubble slow leak lots of little bubbles fast leak. . Use a sniffer. the AC machine has a leak test program that'll test the system for leaks under vacuum.
I've repaired hundreds of A/C systems. I've gone through the exact same conversation with many customers. The companies who build these vehicles add these impressive comfort systems to satisfy their desire for more creature comforts. Sadly, most people have no idea as to what the repair costs can be for an A/C system. It's extremely labor intensive. Well done video.
128,000 miles, No A/C … If you can afford payments get a new vehicle with much higher MPG rating save yourself headaches… If you’re dead set on keeping another 128,000 miles best to replace all connections with new seals and components… Joe, since you’re the expert with replacing hundreds of AC systems, do they make a cost-effective kit? Seems like condensers and seals could maybe be had at a reasonable price I know the labor cost kills everyone’s finance. But I think this would be a better option than troubleshooting labor just go ahead and get to work replacing new considering the mileage. The next step would be where are you going to get quality parts too that are above OEM quality??? To me it don’t make no sense. The system is pressurized anyway why can’t you run an highly filtered air compressor attachment and listen for leaks that way instead of vacuuming out the system using ultraviolet die refilling the system and then checking for leaks again ??? Replace all new at leak points seems best, all depends on hours+Quality parts and being cost effective to the owner of the vehicle…
As a shop owner, The bar for the customer experience is set so low in this industry it pisses me off to no end. Add that to the fact most shops dont have skilled techs to actually understand and fix these cars its a recipe for a disaster for the customer.
Welcome to this time and age. In my specialty, its the same shit. You see companies charging people hundreds of dollars to troubleshoot something and they have NO one with experience. They;'re jus tin for the money.
problem is most owners want cars in and out and the bill paid asap. When i used to work alone i had time to diagnose cars properly and now that i work for someone its just a rotating door
Dave does a great job of being upfront, and honest with his customers. AC issues can be a complete nightmare. A lot of companies don't even want to deal with them.
Hey! Kudos to you, Dave, for actually taking the customer back to the vehicle and showing her just exactly how big of a can of worms she has. I know a lot of shops that won't allow folks in the bays to see what's up with their vehicle. Thanks for taking the time to inform the consumer and also for taking the time to film it. I pray that your business is blessed with growth and peace. Good job! 😊👍❤️🙏🏻✝️🕊️🥇
@@kevinpulver4027 yeah they can be finicky. I’m in residential hvac for 20 years and never had much luck with them. Nitrogen pressure test and soapy water always wins
@fsu3784 they're finicky for sure. I've found many many leaks in my career. Found a particularly good one once when the shop hvac was blowing the leak from a refrigerated case across the salesfloor. Top of the distributer, done a ton of them. Ofn and bubbles is the best but even then not 100%
@kevinpulver4027 when I worked at the dealer they bought us a brand new fancy $1500 one and that thing was the biggest fuckin joke of a tool I've ever used. You could set the sumbitch in a non AC vehicle with the windows up and it'd still go off if you breathe too close to it.
as a GM tech that rear evap is a known leak point on that vehicle. if you remove the blower resistor on the rear A/C you do not have to remove the all the interior to inspect it.
My AC is still working this year, I’m dreading the day it quits working. What an honest shop you are, if I was younger I’d show up to work, I could’ve excelled in that shop environment.
Indeed! This is exactly why I work for the folks I do. They follow the same principles That Dave and his crew follow. Some issues are very challenging, like AC faults. Direct injection is another. A faulty injector was triggering a CAT code. Go figure! And the customer that had been burned by other shops... Sadly, that does happen. Wish more people had the integrity and honesty, out there.
Im sure its beating a dead horse , but way too many places and individuals just keeping "topping off " A/C instead of fixing the leak . More time and money to do it properly as any good wrencher knows.
Replaced a coolant radiator on a VW and the A/C no longer worked 😭 rang round lots of people would re charge it but no one could supposedly vacuum test the system. Found a local knowledge garage went through the process of removing the refrigerant and replacing it with it think nitrogen and pressure testing as the nitrogen gas molecules are smaller than the refrigerant so will find any leaks, no leaks were detected so the system was re gassed dyed and lubricant added happy to say no issues since well worth the extra.
When it stops working you're better off just leaving it be and get used to no ac...no ac in a car isn't the end of the world it does suck but I got used to it quick after dropping 600 bucks on a condenser replacement only to get one summer out of it ...I quickly said screw it I'm not paying thousands and having my car takin apart and put back together all while hoping and praying the job is done right....to much risk to much money just to have something you don't actually need
It’s nice to Know that GM hasn’t changed things in like 20yrs. Gotta love working on rear A/C. Back in my day this job would have cost about 1500-1800.
Why in the world would they put an evap core way back there? Tons of cars have rear AC without putting it way back there. Overcomplicated for no reason.
@@michaelrueckert8507 In larger Cubic ft interior vehicles with multiple passengers it comes down to how quick the interior can be cooled when interior temps can exceed 150F. Some A/C systems in modern Vehicles have the same cooling capacity as house with a 3 to 4 ton central unit. 36,000 to 48,000 BTUs. Hope this helps
My 97 Vettes AC works great lol. My 02 Silvarado on the other hand not so much. It just stopped working last year. Before it went out it would blow so cold it would freeze you out.
The reason for an evaporator core, fan and an expansion valve in the rear is for the needed cooling for large vehicles with multiple passengers, when the interior vehicle temp could be in excess of 150F in the sun. The cooling capacities of some of the modern vehicles is equivalent to a 3 to 4 ton central A/C unit found in homes. 36,000 to 48,000 BTUs. Hope this helps.
Shame on the dealer but this lady is just ignorant to the fact that thinking the dealer is going to stand by it's customers and doing what's right. She should have taken it back within an hour and got her the hell outta there.
Hey the used car dealer she purchased from sounds questionable and the maintenance agreement with one of these dealers have is garbage. I know Dave can solve this issue but its labor intensive and expensive
This happens a lot more then it gets put out on youtube. I wish they would blast the name of the dealership on here so she has some type of recourse and they get to correct the issue along with clearing their name or not.
He is talking about the drain... but thats not always prevalent if you just have a tiny leak and so not enough to detect.... but it is a very good idea to check there!
@@imfloridano5448 lol you're absolutely right and while they're at it make that window swing open for easy access to the evaporator...but that's in a world that cares about customers which is not the world we live in...they make it hard on purpose, they design everything we buy nowadays to break so you can go buy another...recently I wanted to buy a dehumidifier so I went online looking and every brand at every price level all have the same kinda reviews saying they last a year or two then they die wether it's been in use or not they just quit working....remember back in the day when a dehumidifier would last 10 15 20 years lol
Pressure it up to 225 with nitrogen and hit it with soap and water. Take a stethoscope to the vents and listen for a leak, possible evap core. Ac is very expensive and hard to pinpoint the exact leak somtimes if you cant always see a smoking gun. Also, recover system, and pull both lines off at compressor and block them off, and then see if the system holds a vacuum. Possible compressor?? Good point at letting her know up front! Suspect also a leaking condenser, due to road debris going though to the core. Good luck Dave 😊
@@kenthuntsingersr7501 i would be careful with that pressure if it wasnt leaking it may at that pressure, my info states aprx 200 psi, i use 175 the evap core is the weak link which could be damaged at that higher pressure. but to each his own
Dave is so fantastic at communication with the customer. I am going to show guys that I train this video. It’s obvious that he cares, and he is great at explaining things and educating the customer. I am in the refrigeration business, and the way he simplified,drew, and explained the refrigeration/AC circuit was truly impressive.
Short and sweet explanation on A/C .. made simple for a woman. I love explaining this to my customers, because then they begin to understand why it's not as simple and why it's really expensive to fix it properly
Dave is a braver man than me for being able to tell her how much it’ll be. I’d feel so bad telling them after all the trouble she’d been through that she’s going to have to spend thousands.
Add in our issues with aftermarket parts now, like the F150 we are putting a second evaporator in after the first inexpensive one failed. Customer wanted the cheaper option, but also the same warranty. Lasted 18 months. Dash removal required. Sometimes the repair should be declined if it can't be done with good parts. I do think she was given too much explanation and didn't understand most of it. But I do applaud the effort. These have so many failed condensers, so I'd find it and show her after if she'd like to see it. Very thorough, nice work.
The first few minutes were talking about other shops not finding the problem, then the rest of the video was Dave struggling to find/fix the problem. What I get from this video is that sometimes A/C repair can be a real pain, and maybe the other shops tried their best and struggled to find a problem just like Dave was struggling. Every summer I run into a couple A/C jobs like this that are difficult to even know what to tell the customer. I will say this, if something has rear A/C, that’s the first place I look, cause they leak all the time. Ive blocked off the rear system to save customers money on repairing them before. I think they sell kits for that now. Most of my customers don’t have the money to put thousands into their A/C so we have to get them by somehow. I’ve known people that would just put refrigerant in when it got hot until summer was over lol
Nice video - Dave reminds me of the service manager and assistant service manager that I worked for at a Chevrolet , Cadillac, BMW dealer service department. There were days where angry/upset customers left more at ease knowing that we were working in their best interests - all it took was a little time to talk to the customer and explain what they did. The time involved was showing the customer what was happening - or not happening on their vehicle and what steps were taken and the next steps to take to find a resolution to their concern. Not every case went perfect, but most of the time the customers learned that we were there for them when they needed us. That was 27 years ago - I was lucky to work for and learn from those guys.
You’re a great man Dave it warms my heart seeing you do all these great things with charity and explaining the customer and doing it the right way. Makes the industry look just that much better. And some tips are pretty good for my Ford dealer tech job
The easiest part is being a mechanic, the hardest is being the owner/service advisor and trying to explain it to the customer to where it makes sense for them. Good job dave 👏this industry needs this, its hard for non mechanical inclined people to understand this. It takes time and take stuff apart to find the problem
one common place I've found leaks is the schrader valves. they are usually covered in dye from connecting and disconnecting hoses and not every one thinks to check and replace them. also they wont leak while hoses are connected during a leak down test. if I'm having trouble finding the smoking gun leak I go to the schrader valves first and replace them.
That's probably the most common location for leaks, at least in older 10+ year old cars. The valve cores are cheap enough that they should just be replaced at the time of the first recharge (along with adding UV dye to trace the leak if the car comes back).
Dave, love your videos! As an a/c tech for a long time in a truck shop we would use nitrogen to pressurize the a/c system after the evacuation of freon. And then you could use soap water to pinpoint as well as your ear to listen for leaks in the cab where you can't see the Evap(s). In my experience the dye has been inconsistent at diagnosing the front seal on the sanden style compressors. When I can't find a leak with nitrogen, I default to the compressor before the Evap(s). Keep up the good work, and thank you for being so transparent with your customers! I can't get enough of your videos. You do such a great job explaining condition cause correction and confirmation 👍🏼
the difference between residential and our system is theirs copper lines no gaskets ,seal s rubber hoses and front compressor seals. u cant just check with nitrogen for hi pressure leaks. if you use and depend on that 10k machine to solve your problem you have not studied ac enough. its weakness is on the vacuum stage, yes if you have a large leak under its test it will fail it ,but small leaks under vacuum it cant detect. leaks large ,small ,micro its a study of its own, if under your vacuum pull and the front pump seal sucks in some you will be pulling air in while in that vacuum stage and may not no it,so while its sucking more air is entering. a micron gauge will reveal this not that expensive machine
It’s probably going to be a bad condenser. The weld will be cracked around the fitting in the top driver side of the condenser and there will be a leak there. Super common in the 14-18 gm trucks. Also in all likelihood the brake vacuum pump is shot as well. But that is covered under an extended warranty to 10yr 150k by gm.
I was looking in the comments to see if somebody stated this. I have replaced so many of these it’s not funny. They are easy, remove the 2 13mm radiator bolts and the upper radiator support, tilt the radiator backwards, take the 13mm nut off for the AC lines and pull the condenser out.
@@Kevin09210 it's a defect that most will have sooner or later the new ones are hit or miss if they stay sealed I've had some come back anywhere from a year to 2 years later leaking from the same spot on the new condenser
I’m in the uk and I specialise in A/C and leak detection, years ago there was more appreciation for carrying out the AC service but now with our fast fit centres ( gas & go) all the regular work has mostly gone because of price and I seem to get mostly referrals to diagnose issues (leaks, electronic faults etc), the problem I have is correctly so everything is about the cost and with the cost of components 80% of customers back out of jobs like to replace a leaking condenser ( my average condenser replacement price is £450) saying “I’ll leave it” remembering that the uk is not the hottest and many put up with no AC. I have always found the AC system and understanding the thermal properties fascinating and it’s a big big subject, much more interesting when you have knowledge about the workings. In the uk we still have big companies that just throw a can of 134 or YF in the lines and hope for the best, disgusting that it’s allowed, remembering that during a AC system service ( of a healthy system) the Vacuum period is the most important part and the gas & go’s vac for maybe 5 or 10 minutes or in the can users situation not at all and that’s just so so wrong, you need a dry ( as possible) circuit for the refrigerant to function at its best. With all that said, it was nice to see such a patient customer whom at the end of the day was thinking “ I just want cold air “ 😂 Thanks Dave
I’ve tried to incorporate a micron gauge many times but within vehicles it’s very hit and miss due to the permable hoses and lubricant I have had very dry tight systems that can’t get below 300 microns others still as high as 100 or so but nothing like static home/ commercial system… But yeah you will also see an decay on the micron gauge but nothing with concern. Most of my micron testing was done for me being inquisitive but I’m not sure it’s a big benefit within a cars AC system. Hope this helps Paul. David
gm tech here, rear evaporator leaks are super common on these and it doesn't take that much time to access them id 100% recommend starting there before removing the radiator to inspect the back of the condenser.
The days of going to a mechanic and getting 200-300 $ fix are long gone. Shops are charging like doctors. Smaller and simpler was affordable. All the bells and whistles break.
I'm a Canadian & Licensed auto tech - I really wish I could apply at your shop. No rust on anything and the shop environment looks fantastic. Keep up the stellar work!
That happens when you outsource your engineering and the manufacturing of 70% of your parts to other countries, and you have a CEO who's making 30 million a year, and she doesn't know what she's doing. In 2018 that truck went for$90,000 plus, that shouldn't happen.
Dave, you are truly a professional...I'm so glad that you explained to the customer that the evaporator removes heat from the air being blown past it, the key word here being removal. Most people will say that refrigeration is the process of making something cold, the fact of the matter is that its a process of heat removal...
Buddy a pre purchase inspection would not prevent a thing with this AC issue. Don’t you think Dave’s shop would have found something obvious if there was something to be found
I appreciate how you show the customer the problem points on the car and how challenging it can be to access things. They may not understand "evaporators and condensers" but if you point to that tiny part buried in the back of the engine bay, the high price of repairs begins to make a lot more sense! Also, kudos to you for dropping the advice on contacting the state about the "warranty company" not holding up their end of the deal too.
Reefer tech here - it’s a pita no matter what type of equipment it is. Be it huge John Deere tractors or sky cranes. But it does pay for most reefer tech guys boats/ trailers and fancy trucks lol. Time to trade it in !!
Showing a customer and explaining in lay-mans terms is so rare and to be doing so in a patient, compassionate manner shows the amazing character you have . You are an amazing person / shop owner. Wish you were close to Maryland.
Hola 👋 señor Dave!!! What a nightmare with the A/C system in such a nice vehicle I had a 88 Silverado or Cheyenne and when I replaced the engine I put all the compressor and lines to the side of the truck and put it back on when the engine was installed and never had a problem like this 2018 model that shows how GM is going down in quality no more “like a rock “ and I know that it can’t be a never problem but at least has to last a little longer than that…six years old and 180 K miles mine was 300k miles with the original compressor and lines and still was working except it had the R-12 Freon which it was impossible for me to buy in case I wanted to add refrigerant to the a c and here in dfw Texas the heat weather is brutal and some people make it work so hard trying to cool down to 65 degrees while outside is 105 degrees in summer to me that is also abusing the vehicle 😢…anyway that was a great video…Y’all have a great weekend 👋😃👋
I absolutely understands what she went through. It’s sad. A lot of customers don’t understand the particulars of warranty. My bought new 16’ gmc Denali had issue after issue, was maintained under a severe service, (2300 mile full synthetic oil change, along with annual driveline service with the truck failing at 62,000 miles. I bought a new 2023 Nissan Armada platinum new last October, and being Nissan which is notorious for warping rotors, has been stellar, horrible gas mileage, but absolutely amazing. GM wanted $92,000 to replace my 2016 GMC DENALI ULTIMATE, per batum, no rebates, after the issues. I’m well aware of every make as its issue, but stay away from GM. Wonderful video! Anyone own a model similar to hers and mine with the faulty GM condenser, where the recall was putting piece of aluminum tape over the weakened connection area
I hate it when customers have to go through all that drama just to get some answers as to what is really going on. That being said, I definitely appreciate Dave's honesty with her. I know this is not an easy situation to deal with at all. One thing that I might suggest in this particular situation where a lot of the A/C components aren't visible without dismantling a bunch of stuff is to find a small opening (perhaps through one of the vents, somewhere around the steering column, behind the HVAC control panel and/or radio, behind the glovebox, and the cabin air filter location) that perhaps you can get one of those cameras with an extendable UV LED light inside in order to see what's going on. I've seen mechanics use this technique to determine if a cylinder head has a burnt valve by sticking one of these cameras inside the spark plug tube wells. I'm sure you could probably do something like that in this instance as well. It may not be 100% perfect but it should be just enough for you to see if any of the dye leaked out inside the dash. Hope this helps!
I have a 1993 Ranger 4.0 I special ordered new. Just finished an engine rebuild last fall. I live in Montana and my AC works great from October to May.
I am mechanic my self and appreciate Dave’s explanation and giving worst case on job repair but as I have seen this issues many times over I would not be removing radiator or anything of that nature just to bring customer bill higher just to look at condenser, there is plenty of room to see with out taking front grill off and to make proper decision on if it needs it or not , also Chevy know for there high and low a/c lines to fail at compressor on 90 degrees bends and after all of that you can advice not other way around specially being in business for year we as trust worthy mechanics have plenty experience on know issues that fail and I would definitely not give customer complete new system because of one or two parts failure Dave stay true to your roots Thank you keep doing good by your customers 🤝
We use to just block off the rear ac with a billet block off kit you can buy after market, being in the rear of the car the rear Evap gets bounced around a lot more then the front does. Front condenser is easier to get at if you remove the air intake piping and remove the upper radiator mount bolts and lay the radiator back on the throttle body and you can pull out the condenser/ inspection it without pulling the whole front clip off
Same thing happens here in Rochester NY, you have dealers and repair shops that do nothing but lie. They treat you as if you are a mindless idiot and always try to do the cheapest repair possible. These after market warranties should be investigated by the government.
Thank you Dave! But if I may be a bit sarcastic-(thank you automotive engineers-🤣). Automobiles do not need to be so complicated to repair. You did a great job showing her what is involved.
@@JOMaMa.. I’m assuming you’re talking about Dave here? You mean the guy who sat down and had a discussion with customer, then decided it was such a shitty story he’d capitalize on it and make a video? Yeah he certainly had no prior knowledge.
The real A/C nightmares happen when the compressor chews itself up from the inside, and it's dying gift is to compress metal shavings into every corner of the system, and you need to change everything; condenser evaporator, reciever drier, and pray that you've flushed out the metal from all the lines, or the new compressor is doomed to go out the same way as the old one
OH yeah you ain't kidding bro, last one i did i ran 3 quarts of cleaner through evap and condenser, i was still nervous about it. Blew it out forwards and backwards then new orfice and dryer. It worked fine for years till we sold the vehicle K5 blazer.
Not that big a deal. Pull lines, flush, install compressor guard screens to catch anything that might not have been flushed out, move on. Have done 100s of these over the past 30 years.
I think Dave is trying to keep her costs in check and I applaud him for his efforts. Lastly, I think he’s managed to hire a bunch of truly special and gifted mechanics! Always looking to help and as respectful as I’ve seen in years! Kudos Dave!
Most of the AC systems I’ve worked on that leaked, I always replace all the o-rings before charging. Most of the time one or more of them were leaking from shrinking or getting hard. I wouldn’t charge one without doing that at minimum if I knew it had leaked down.
@@djschwenk3485 co2 will work but remember nitrogen is a dry gas where co2 is wet and will leave moisture in system causing you to leave vacuum pump longer still might not remove all the moisture.
A lot of evaps have bad connections which should be replaced too probably same as condenser coils, they are all cheap junk and incredibly hard to access.
Condenser leaks at the receiver drier is the most common leak aside the manifold hose bracket off the compressor. GM trucks/ suvs have taken an even deeper quality dive since 2014.
DAVE!! Please do a video on these gadgets that turn back mileage…..this poor lady sounds like she got screwed by the seller who was a dealer…? How can we protect ourselves buying used cars? Can we detect if an odometer got turned back? Love the info you give. You’re a good man.🤗🤗🤗
If I remember correctly gm had a condenser issue on all Tahoes, Yukons, silverados and sierras from 2015ish-2019. I could be wrong but I remember reading something about that.
Another type of leak detection is carried out with forming gas (95% nitrogen 5% hydrogen). To do this, the system is evacuated and then filled with forming gas. An electronic hydrogen sensor can then be used to search for leaks. The alarm is emitted both acoustically via a signal tone and visually via an LED display. The leak detector uses a new type of semiconductor sensor which is extremely precise. The 40cm long flexible probe made of stainless steel allows you to reach even hard-to-reach places without any problems.
With it being a 2018 Tahoe, I would put money on the condenser, the lower weld on the driver side of it. Super super common leak on 2014+ Tahoe, suburban, youkon, Silverado, Sierra ext. Done so many of them I could do it in an hour with my eyes closed. Whenever one comes in the shop with a complaint of AC warm, that’s the first place I look and 90% of the time that’s it. GM has a TSB out on those condensers.
Dave you need to invest in more tools... a leak detector, and vacuum micron gauge. So u won't be guessing, if you do a evacuation, test for leaks with a micron gauge, if it rises it has a leak, if it doesn't you don't, your wasting time and venting refrigerant. Leak detector can sometimes find leaks where you can't see.......... I can find the leak, without that proposal to expose the condenser
We already know it has a leak. It was charged and empty after a week. Leak detectors are not always a given either. I have an expensive one and it sits in its box
leak detectors suck .Try going in a warehouse with 10 freezer compressors running and telling where the leak is . He said looking at condenser because the huge leak she has will "SHOW" the oils stain where ever it is. Nitrogen is better than electronic leak non-detectors. Customers respond better to visual they they would the beeping yellow box.
If you run an A/C leak test with the A/C machine and it fails, You are NOT ALLOWED to charge the system. It also must be done by someone who has certifications for the refrigerant the vehicle uses.
Yep, your the man dave, watching this makes me happy to have a '98 Grand Marquis with 80,000 mi and easy accessible AC system lol keep up the good work
Are used to have a 1978 Chevy G 20 van. It had factory CN it and I did converted over to r 13:39 134 with a new condenser and sanden compressor. That system worked great for 20 years and still worked when I sold the van.
He did well, ac work is hard to explain. I agree though, too many people like using the doctor analogy in order to explain things and I think its so stupid. You're not a doctor, you're just a mechanic lol.
Yeah, it's a tough call, but as many already know, replacing every component , hose and o ring, etc... is the only real way to know, and guarrantee...l might leave the evap, if its a huge amount of work to r/r, And, if a refrigerant sniffer shows no leaks under the dash, but you may need to do it eventually in a day, a week, or a year, who knows. And logistics, and hourly rates, parts, on newer vehicles can easily exceed 2k, and thats a legitimate low cost estimate, well l feel for this young lady. Dave is as honest as they come, he tell's it like it is. Thank you for that Dave and co. ✌️❤️😁
Don't wast time explaining how things work, predominantly they have no clue about what you're talking about. Tried to explain something to a client once, he said "Im not interested how it works, I just want it to work".
Can't speak for everyone... sometimes I want to know... sometime I could care less. I'm sure you appreciated his time. A little bit of knowledge goes a long way.
Had a gentleman one time tell me that. Also had a service manager tell me to do what you are suggesting, "give them the amount and shut up," what I personally found was when I shot them a price and shut up, my customer service numbers sucked, if I took time explaining it, my numbers were good. This is my honest opinion and has worked for me, the more complicated or extensive a repair, the more explanation of the repair is needed. Example is an engine repair. "Hey customer, it's going to be $5k to re ring your engine, you want it done?" You literally got one sentence for a 5k repair. Short and sweet, seems like a lot of money for only one sentence. Just my opinion though. YMMV.
Whether or not they do understand i think its important for some people to have a basic understanding an appreciation for the people who have to work on these cars they way they are. For example what once was simple water pump thats just bolted on the side of the engine in plain view an would take maybe an hour is now buried inside the block where the timing chain is contained an takes all day an basically to remove the engine or remove the top end off of the block to access. An its gotta be done right or else it will destroy the engine.
A/C quits working expect a shop to start at $1K. It is not easy or cheap to fix A/C. Here in Ontario, Canada, if they cannot find the leak they drain and tag it and it is illegal to refill the system unless it is proven to be repaired. Most shops do not touch A/C because of this.
Canada is on its way to becoming a totalitarian society. The USA is not far behind. Thank goodness for elections. We can still do our own air-conditioning work here; R134a cost $10 for a 12-oz can
I’m surprised not to see any comments about pressure testing with leak trace gas or similar. I thought you guys in the USA were more up to speed on ac than us in the UK. Your systems are obviously larger than ours, but using leaktrace or Loktrace would be a big help to you. It is illegal in the uk to recharge a system with a known or suspected leak, without testing it properly ( many chose to ignore it though or are unaware)
In the US it is also illegal to recharge the system without first finding & fixing the leak. Trace gas is also used often in the US. I'm not sure if it's still allowed, but at one time the EPA would let techs add a small amount of refrigerant to dry nitrogen gas for leak testing with an electronic detector.
I own a 2001 Mustang GT. It was 2200 .00 to replace the entire A/C system. Car is worth on NADA about 4K but it’s worth more than that to me. Roush stage 1
Dave great video, as usual, following you for a long time now love your videos and am extremely jealous of your machine shop and skillset. We have lost all of our engine rebuilders in Canada. Not many rebuilders left anymore. If I find myself in Utah, I am coming to visit. We have laws prohibiting the recharge of an A/C system, unless we do a leak test first and the car passes. We test with nitrogen to pressurize the system and test components before we are permitted to recharge the system. if the system holds pressure for 20 min it usually will hold refrigerant gas. shop owner/mechanic 40 + years Dave
Dave you went to far with it I hope the little head wasn't doing the thinking they have nitrogen electronic leak detectors and you have a bore scope I have made 1/2 inch holes in evap cases and looked inside their and put a plastic under coating plug in keep up the hard work making videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
Evacuate, start sectioning off the system using plugs/caps and start vacuum leak testing different sections. Saves a lot of time and guessing where to start searching.
All the time. Ding. Ding...costing her money she does want to spend. Need to tell her, it's going to cost you this much money for a diagnostic because of the time involved..that comes firsty. Customer want a quick answer and pay no fee. Want a free diagnosis on your dime.
Never purchase a car by yourself, always take an old man who's been around the block a few times. Also, if everything isn't working during a test drive, walk away. Also tell them you want your own mechanic to look it over before signing on the bottom line.
Great customer service in your videos. Those factor Ac condensers have been the most common leak on GM trucks and suvs starting about 2014+. If it has a grill shutter on the model just make sure it is open and you can look thru the driver side of the grill on the top blazed/welded connection of the Dryer. They crack there and leave oil residue around the area if it is a recent leak where the weather hasn't had time to wash some of it away. The ones I replaced the customers had it refilled before I talked to the and it lasted between a week to a day only in most cases.
Dave I don’t agree with removing the remaining refrigerant from the system weighing it and then adding back the deficient amount. Those refrigerants are blends. Meaning the system should be recharged with new refrigerant. The other comment had a good point about pressure checking with nitrogen. Pressure system to 350psi. And use plain old bubble blowing soap. It will not stain the automobile and washed away easily. We are a commercial air conditioning company. My father started in a/c auto installs in 1960. He is now 82 years old still working some. We love you Dave. No hate only respect for you guys.
I knew I was gonna get more schooling on A/C leaks from this post but I also got a crash course in customer relations for bonus. So Dave what did she wind up doing to resolve the problem? Those dodgy "car repair insurance" companies are more slippery than a bucket of eels to get payment from, and they have a million and one ways, always in fine print on the contract, to get out of it!
I totally get this. As a plumber i run into this sort of issue all the time. Having to explain a whole system to explain why just throwing parts at it may no permanently fix an issue.
Wau Wau Wau Wau absolutely amazing, why didn't you become a doctor Dave... Just you're a doctor for cars, and from what I've seen on the few minutes on camera, a good advocate on how humans being should behave. Hope the universe pays you ten fold all the way from Mozambique
From an experienced tech here, anything that ever has rear A/C, I look there first. They are very often the source of issues. They sell rear A/C block-off kits now which will save a customer a ton of money if their rear air is the only issue. I’ve blocked off many rear heater cores and a couple evaporators.
I have never seen a mechanic be so thorough and up front with a customer. Well done sir.
Hey Dave, refrigeration technician here. Just a friendly suggestion for doing AC work: get a refrigerant leak detector. I really love my Inficon D-Tek Stratus, it’s pricey, but instead of doing all this nonsense looking for dye, visible oil, etc., you can just wave your wand around and find your leaks. Instead of pulling the dash apart, just wave your wand in front of the vents while there is a refrigerant charge in the vehicle and you’ll be able to find out in just a few minutes. Just my 2¢ but this is an invaluable tool for any air conditioning work.
I have a SnapOn “sniffer” but man you can blow on that thing and it’ll pick up refrigerant on your breath. Hahahahaha. It has worked for me though about 50% of the time.
Yeah and that’s why I love my stratus. Somewhere in the ballpark of $1200 but it has a ppm readout and is incredibly sensitive but also accurate and less prone to false alarms. I’ve used Fieldpiece and other less precise brands but the stratus has ruined me. Bacharach H10 is another good choice too but it’s outdated at this point and will not work with HFO refrigerants like 1234yf.
@@lucasschomaker7380 I’ll look into Stratus. Thank you for the info sir!
Yes👍. Have one. I like showing the customer where the leak is with the dye
Charge system with nitrogen after evacuating it spray cal blue on all connections look for bubbles. Big bubble slow leak lots of little bubbles fast leak. . Use a sniffer. the AC machine has a leak test program that'll test the system for leaks under vacuum.
I've repaired hundreds of A/C systems. I've gone through the exact same conversation with many customers. The companies who build these vehicles add these impressive comfort systems to satisfy their desire for more creature comforts. Sadly, most people have no idea as to what the repair costs can be for an A/C system. It's extremely labor intensive. Well done video.
128,000 miles, No A/C … If you can afford payments get a new vehicle with much higher MPG rating save yourself headaches…
If you’re dead set on keeping another 128,000 miles best to replace all connections with new seals and components…
Joe, since you’re the expert with replacing hundreds of AC systems, do they make a cost-effective kit? Seems like condensers and seals could maybe be had at a reasonable price I know the labor cost kills everyone’s finance. But I think this would be a better option than troubleshooting labor just go ahead and get to work replacing new considering the mileage.
The next step would be where are you going to get quality parts too that are above OEM quality???
To me it don’t make no sense. The system is pressurized anyway why can’t you run an highly filtered air compressor attachment and listen for leaks that way instead of vacuuming out the system using ultraviolet die refilling the system and then checking for leaks again ???
Replace all new at leak points seems best, all depends on hours+Quality parts and being cost effective to the owner of the vehicle…
Yup. Evaporator replacement was 11 hours labor alone.
@@a3300000 If there was good engineering, they would have quick access panels.
Exactly why I don't buy expensive hi dollar vehicles. Way to expensive to fix.
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP 2024
As a shop owner, The bar for the customer experience is set so low in this industry it pisses me off to no end. Add that to the fact most shops dont have skilled techs to actually understand and fix these cars its a recipe for a disaster for the customer.
Welcome to this time and age. In my specialty, its the same shit. You see companies charging people hundreds of dollars to troubleshoot something and they have NO one with experience. They;'re jus tin for the money.
It's all about the almighty dollar
problem is most owners want cars in and out and the bill paid asap. When i used to work alone i had time to diagnose cars properly and now that i work for someone its just a rotating door
this is why i decided to work for myself
One thing I never do is bad mouth other shops particularly on video for the entire industry to watch
Few more weeks of content like this I’ll be a certified mechanic. He explains things so well and delivers tough news like a champ.
Me too, bout to go wrench of the wife's new Explorer
Dave does a great job of being upfront, and honest with his customers. AC issues can be a complete nightmare. A lot of companies don't even want to deal with them.
This is how dealerships work, people don’t realize prices increase for specialist techs.
I don't unless it's a 90s Ford van or GMC van or Dodge ram van
It's not that bad to deal with ac systems, there's good money in replacing silverado condensers
I appreciate you were using this as a class for the public, not neccessarily a class for techs. Thanks to Gina for paricipating.
Surely he use some of the revenue from this video to cover the cost of the repair
Hey! Kudos to you, Dave, for actually taking the customer back to the vehicle and showing her just exactly how big of a can of worms she has. I know a lot of shops that won't allow folks in the bays to see what's up with their vehicle. Thanks for taking the time to inform the consumer and also for taking the time to film it. I pray that your business is blessed with growth and peace. Good job! 😊👍❤️🙏🏻✝️🕊️🥇
Could always get a refrigerant sniffer to see if evap core is leaking. Or check the condensate drain for dye.
Exactly
Good idea on the condensate drain! I've got the best leak detector available and honestly don't feel like I've ever done very good with it.
@@kevinpulver4027 yeah they can be finicky. I’m in residential hvac for 20 years and never had much luck with them. Nitrogen pressure test and soapy water always wins
@fsu3784 they're finicky for sure. I've found many many leaks in my career. Found a particularly good one once when the shop hvac was blowing the leak from a refrigerated case across the salesfloor. Top of the distributer, done a ton of them.
Ofn and bubbles is the best but even then not 100%
@kevinpulver4027 when I worked at the dealer they bought us a brand new fancy $1500 one and that thing was the biggest fuckin joke of a tool I've ever used. You could set the sumbitch in a non AC vehicle with the windows up and it'd still go off if you breathe too close to it.
A/C problems are expensive and labor intensive! This is a good lesson for us non-mechanics.
as a GM tech that rear evap is a known leak point on that vehicle. if you remove the blower resistor on the rear A/C you do not have to remove the all the interior to inspect it.
So what should I do on my gmc Yukon xl I have nothing but hot air
Same as the front condenser developing hairline cracks on that particular generation
@@Luisquickwithot air in front and back? If its just the back it could be a blocked TEV? Or possibly faulty solenoid coil if they have one?
This is like watching Dr. House episodes again, gotta get the full story of each person to diagnose the problem. I love it! :)
yes and dont forget patients (customers) always lie
I know, maybe do a spin-off series of House starring "Dave" as House's guru extraordinaire mechanic!
My AC is still working this year, I’m dreading the day it quits working. What an honest shop you are, if I was younger I’d show up to work, I could’ve excelled in that shop environment.
Right on
Indeed! This is exactly why I work for the folks I do. They follow the same principles That Dave and his crew follow. Some issues are very challenging, like AC faults. Direct injection is another. A faulty injector was triggering a CAT code. Go figure! And the customer that had been burned by other shops... Sadly, that does happen. Wish more people had the integrity and honesty, out there.
Im sure its beating a dead horse , but way too many places and individuals just keeping "topping off " A/C instead of fixing the leak . More time and money to do it properly as any good wrencher knows.
Replaced a coolant radiator on a VW and the A/C no longer worked 😭 rang round lots of people would re charge it but no one could supposedly vacuum test the system. Found a local knowledge garage went through the process of removing the refrigerant and replacing it with it think nitrogen and pressure testing as the nitrogen gas molecules are smaller than the refrigerant so will find any leaks, no leaks were detected so the system was re gassed dyed and lubricant added happy to say no issues since well worth the extra.
When it stops working you're better off just leaving it be and get used to no ac...no ac in a car isn't the end of the world it does suck but I got used to it quick after dropping 600 bucks on a condenser replacement only to get one summer out of it ...I quickly said screw it I'm not paying thousands and having my car takin apart and put back together all while hoping and praying the job is done right....to much risk to much money just to have something you don't actually need
It’s nice to Know that GM hasn’t changed things in like 20yrs. Gotta love working on rear A/C. Back in my day this job would have cost about 1500-1800.
Why in the world would they put an evap core way back there? Tons of cars have rear AC without putting it way back there. Overcomplicated for no reason.
@@michaelrueckert8507 because it could be influenced by the heat of the piping itself.
@@michaelrueckert8507 In larger Cubic ft interior vehicles with multiple passengers it comes down to how quick the interior can be cooled when interior temps can exceed 150F. Some A/C systems in modern Vehicles have the same cooling capacity as house with a 3 to 4 ton central unit. 36,000 to 48,000 BTUs. Hope this helps
My 97 Vettes AC works great lol. My 02 Silvarado on the other hand not so much. It just stopped working last year. Before it went out it would blow so cold it would freeze you out.
The reason for an evaporator core, fan and an expansion valve in the rear is for the needed cooling for large vehicles with multiple passengers, when the interior vehicle temp could be in excess of 150F in the sun. The cooling capacities of some of the modern vehicles is equivalent to a 3 to 4 ton central A/C unit found in homes. 36,000 to 48,000 BTUs. Hope this helps.
Shame on the dealer but this lady is just ignorant to the fact that thinking the dealer is going to stand by it's customers and doing what's right. She should have taken it back within an hour and got her the hell outta there.
absolutely "give me my money back" and just keep repeating that phrase
It wasn't a dealer, it was a used car lot.
That's why they call em a stealership!
Hey the used car dealer she purchased from sounds questionable and the maintenance agreement with one of these dealers have is garbage. I know Dave can solve this issue but its labor intensive and expensive
This happens a lot more then it gets put out on youtube. I wish they would blast the name of the dealership on here so she has some type of recourse and they get to correct the issue along with clearing their name or not.
I love that you take the time to show the customer what you are doing and explain the whole process so she can understand!
I enjoy watching how dave communicates with customers. I really learn a lot from these videos on communication
check for evap core leak by seeing the uv light to the hvac box drain
Or the high side or low side shredder valves.
He is talking about the drain... but thats not always prevalent if you just have a tiny leak and so not enough to detect.... but it is a very good idea to check there!
All manufacturers should be mandated to place sum type of inspection window for the evaporators in all vehicles
@@imfloridano5448 lol you're absolutely right and while they're at it make that window swing open for easy access to the evaporator...but that's in a world that cares about customers which is not the world we live in...they make it hard on purpose, they design everything we buy nowadays to break so you can go buy another...recently I wanted to buy a dehumidifier so I went online looking and every brand at every price level all have the same kinda reviews saying they last a year or two then they die wether it's been in use or not they just quit working....remember back in the day when a dehumidifier would last 10 15 20 years lol
Or ac sniffer
Pressure it up to 225 with nitrogen and hit it with soap and water. Take a stethoscope to the vents and listen for a leak, possible evap core. Ac is very expensive and hard to pinpoint the exact leak somtimes if you cant always see a smoking gun. Also, recover system, and pull both lines off at compressor and block them off, and then see if the system holds a vacuum. Possible compressor?? Good point at letting her know up front! Suspect also a leaking condenser, due to road debris going though to the core. Good luck Dave 😊
I did that yesterday to a Honda crv I put 175 psi nitrogen in the system and could hear the evaporator leaking
ive had to go up to 350 psi many times to find leaks. Nitrogen, dye and old fashion leak sniffers and still can be a tough fix . hope for the best.
@@kenthuntsingersr7501 i would be careful with that pressure if it wasnt leaking it may at that pressure, my info states aprx 200 psi, i use 175 the evap core is the weak link which could be damaged at that higher pressure. but to each his own
I was just thinking does nobody charge with nitrogen?? That's the way we always do it. Bubbles equals leak, very simple way to find leaks
Dave is so fantastic at communication with the customer. I am going to show guys that I train this video. It’s obvious that he cares, and he is great at explaining things and educating the customer. I am in the refrigeration business, and the way he simplified,drew, and explained the refrigeration/AC circuit was truly impressive.
Dave operates a business as an example to the whole industry on how to treat customers and employees. Just an Old technicians opinion . WTI 1981
Short and sweet explanation on A/C .. made simple for a woman. I love explaining this to my customers, because then they begin to understand why it's not as simple and why it's really expensive to fix it properly
Diagnostics are not free! Great way to stand by that Dave.
Most of the time, the condensation drain tube will have some dye if it is leaking. That’s an easy check and confirms the problem easily. Great video!
Dave is a braver man than me for being able to tell her how much it’ll be. I’d feel so bad telling them after all the trouble she’d been through that she’s going to have to spend thousands.
The revenue from this video would pay for her repairs.
You have to be up front and honest with people. Only way to do business.
Time isn’t free. I bet you always get a bill from a doctors office after a visit.
@@4X4ishagree
@@RCinginSCnot true
Add in our issues with aftermarket parts now, like the F150 we are putting a second evaporator in after the first inexpensive one failed. Customer wanted the cheaper option, but also the same warranty. Lasted 18 months. Dash removal required.
Sometimes the repair should be declined if it can't be done with good parts.
I do think she was given too much explanation and didn't understand most of it. But I do applaud the effort. These have so many failed condensers, so I'd find it and show her after if she'd like to see it.
Very thorough, nice work.
The first few minutes were talking about other shops not finding the problem, then the rest of the video was Dave struggling to find/fix the problem. What I get from this video is that sometimes A/C repair can be a real pain, and maybe the other shops tried their best and struggled to find a problem just like Dave was struggling. Every summer I run into a couple A/C jobs like this that are difficult to even know what to tell the customer. I will say this, if something has rear A/C, that’s the first place I look, cause they leak all the time. Ive blocked off the rear system to save customers money on repairing them before. I think they sell kits for that now. Most of my customers don’t have the money to put thousands into their A/C so we have to get them by somehow. I’ve known people that would just put refrigerant in when it got hot until summer was over lol
You are a good man to block those off for them! 👍🏻
Nice video - Dave reminds me of the service manager and assistant service manager that I worked for at a Chevrolet , Cadillac, BMW dealer service department. There were days where angry/upset customers left more at ease knowing that we were working in their best interests - all it took was a little time to talk to the customer and explain what they did. The time involved was showing the customer what was happening - or not happening on their vehicle and what steps were taken and the next steps to take to find a resolution to their concern. Not every case went perfect, but most of the time the customers learned that we were there for them when they needed us. That was 27 years ago - I was lucky to work for and learn from those guys.
You’re a great man Dave it warms my heart seeing you do all these great things with charity and explaining the customer and doing it the right way. Makes the industry look just that much better. And some tips are pretty good for my Ford dealer tech job
I appreciate that!
The easiest part is being a mechanic, the hardest is being the owner/service advisor and trying to explain it to the customer to where it makes sense for them. Good job dave 👏this industry needs this, its hard for non mechanical inclined people to understand this. It takes time and take stuff apart to find the problem
one common place I've found leaks is the schrader valves. they are usually covered in dye from connecting and disconnecting hoses and not every one thinks to check and replace them. also they wont leak while hoses are connected during a leak down test. if I'm having trouble finding the smoking gun leak I go to the schrader valves first and replace them.
Damn, thats where my minisplit is leaking from and i already replaced the shriader valve.
You can use a soap test to check the Schrader valves. They usually leak from the connection.
Bingo
That's probably the most common location for leaks, at least in older 10+ year old cars. The valve cores are cheap enough that they should just be replaced at the time of the first recharge (along with adding UV dye to trace the leak if the car comes back).
Yeah absolutely just replace the Schrader valve cores anyways, they're cheap insurance
Normal people: 'This song is stuck in my head
Me' 'CONDITION, CAUSE, CORRECTION, CONFIRM!'
😂👍
aka "trust but verify"
Exactly! Funny how those three words can be applied to many of life's problems
Lol, I wrote these 4 steps on a post-it today. Apply to life.
Dave, love your videos! As an a/c tech for a long time in a truck shop we would use nitrogen to pressurize the a/c system after the evacuation of freon. And then you could use soap water to pinpoint as well as your ear to listen for leaks in the cab where you can't see the Evap(s). In my experience the dye has been inconsistent at diagnosing the front seal on the sanden style compressors. When I can't find a leak with nitrogen, I default to the compressor before the Evap(s). Keep up the good work, and thank you for being so transparent with your customers! I can't get enough of your videos. You do such a great job explaining condition cause correction and confirmation 👍🏼
the difference between residential and our system is theirs copper lines no gaskets ,seal s rubber hoses and front compressor seals. u cant just check with nitrogen for hi pressure leaks. if you use and depend on that 10k machine to solve your problem you have not studied ac enough. its weakness is on the vacuum stage, yes if you have a large leak under its test it will fail it ,but small leaks under vacuum it cant detect. leaks large ,small ,micro its a study of its own, if under your vacuum pull and the front pump seal sucks in some you will be pulling air in while in that vacuum stage and may not no it,so while its sucking more air is entering. a micron gauge will reveal this not that expensive machine
It’s probably going to be a bad condenser. The weld will be cracked around the fitting in the top driver side of the condenser and there will be a leak there. Super common in the 14-18 gm trucks. Also in all likelihood the brake vacuum pump is shot as well. But that is covered under an extended warranty to 10yr 150k by gm.
Is it a factory defect (that a replacement part probably wont have) or is it something else that causes that weld to crack?
The condenser is out in the open and catches sand and chips from following other vehicles its only aluminum and wears away .
I was looking in the comments to see if somebody stated this. I have replaced so many of these it’s not funny. They are easy, remove the 2 13mm radiator bolts and the upper radiator support, tilt the radiator backwards, take the 13mm nut off for the AC lines and pull the condenser out.
@@Kevin09210 it's a defect that most will have sooner or later the new ones are hit or miss if they stay sealed I've had some come back anywhere from a year to 2 years later leaking from the same spot on the new condenser
@@donnycrugar5397 that means its a defect on the part. Maybe an option is using an aftermarket condenser.
I’m in the uk and I specialise in A/C and leak detection, years ago there was more appreciation for carrying out the AC service but now with our fast fit centres ( gas & go) all the regular work has mostly gone because of price and I seem to get mostly referrals to diagnose issues (leaks, electronic faults etc), the problem I have is correctly so everything is about the cost and with the cost of components 80% of customers back out of jobs like to replace a leaking condenser ( my average condenser replacement price is £450) saying “I’ll leave it” remembering that the uk is not the hottest and many put up with no AC.
I have always found the AC system and understanding the thermal properties fascinating and it’s a big big subject, much more interesting when you have knowledge about the workings. In the uk we still have big companies that just throw a can of 134 or YF in the lines and hope for the best, disgusting that it’s allowed, remembering that during a AC system service ( of a healthy system) the Vacuum period is the most important part and the gas & go’s vac for maybe 5 or 10 minutes or in the can users situation not at all and that’s just so so wrong, you need a dry ( as possible) circuit for the refrigerant to function at its best.
With all that said, it was nice to see such a patient customer whom at the end of the day was thinking “ I just want cold air “ 😂
Thanks Dave
do you use a micron gauge, and what micron do you shoot for and the rise for decay
I’ve tried to incorporate a micron gauge many times but within vehicles it’s very hit and miss due to the permable hoses and lubricant I have had very dry tight systems that can’t get below 300 microns others still as high as 100 or so but nothing like static home/ commercial system… But yeah you will also see an decay on the micron gauge but nothing with concern.
Most of my micron testing was done for me being inquisitive but I’m not sure it’s a big benefit within a cars AC system.
Hope this helps Paul.
David
gm tech here, rear evaporator leaks are super common on these and it doesn't take that much time to access them id 100% recommend starting there before removing the radiator to inspect the back of the condenser.
The days of going to a mechanic and getting 200-300 $ fix are long gone. Shops are charging like doctors. Smaller and simpler was affordable. All the bells and whistles break.
Reasons I do all my minor to major repairs on my 98 Ford van I live in
I'm a Canadian & Licensed auto tech - I really wish I could apply at your shop. No rust on anything and the shop environment looks fantastic. Keep up the stellar work!
Doesn't the compressor send it to the evaporator coils and then to the condenser coils then back to the compressor ?
That happens when you outsource your engineering and the manufacturing of 70% of your parts to other countries, and you have a CEO who's making 30 million a year, and she doesn't know what she's doing. In 2018 that truck went for$90,000 plus, that shouldn't happen.
True story brother 🇺🇲
I really think they are all making garbage vehicles within the last 5 years for a reason. I think it’s to push these stupid EV urinals.
@@JAMESWUERTELE it makes me sick to my stomach, GM used to make some of the neatest, most iconic vehicles and trucks, and they destroyed it.
Dave, you are truly a professional...I'm so glad that you explained to the customer that the evaporator removes heat from the air being blown past it, the key word here being removal.
Most people will say that refrigeration is the process of making something cold, the fact of the matter is that its a process of heat removal...
If you don't know what to look for ALWAYS get a prepurchase inspection on a used car. If the seller won't allow this do NOT buy the car.
Buddy a pre purchase inspection would not prevent a thing with this AC issue. Don’t you think Dave’s shop would have found something obvious if there was something to be found
I appreciate how you show the customer the problem points on the car and how challenging it can be to access things. They may not understand "evaporators and condensers" but if you point to that tiny part buried in the back of the engine bay, the high price of repairs begins to make a lot more sense! Also, kudos to you for dropping the advice on contacting the state about the "warranty company" not holding up their end of the deal too.
Reefer tech here - it’s a pita no matter what type of equipment it is. Be it huge John Deere tractors or sky cranes. But it does pay for most reefer tech guys boats/ trailers and fancy trucks lol. Time to trade it in !!
Showing a customer and explaining in lay-mans terms is so rare and to be doing so in a patient, compassionate manner shows the amazing character you have . You are an amazing person / shop owner. Wish you were close to Maryland.
Hola 👋 señor Dave!!! What a nightmare with the A/C system in such a nice vehicle I had a 88 Silverado or Cheyenne and when I replaced the engine I put all the compressor and lines to the side of the truck and put it back on when the engine was installed and never had a problem like this 2018 model that shows how GM is going down in quality no more “like a rock “ and I know that it can’t be a never problem but at least has to last a little longer than that…six years old and 180 K miles mine was 300k miles with the original compressor and lines and still was working except it had the R-12 Freon which it was impossible for me to buy in case I wanted to add refrigerant to the a c and here in dfw Texas the heat weather is brutal and some people make it work so hard trying to cool down to 65 degrees while outside is 105 degrees in summer to me that is also abusing the vehicle 😢…anyway that was a great video…Y’all have a great weekend 👋😃👋
I absolutely understands what she went through. It’s sad. A lot of customers don’t understand the particulars of warranty. My bought new 16’ gmc Denali had issue after issue, was maintained under a severe service, (2300 mile full synthetic oil change, along with annual driveline service with the truck failing at 62,000 miles. I bought a new 2023 Nissan Armada platinum new last October, and being Nissan which is notorious for warping rotors, has been stellar, horrible gas mileage, but absolutely amazing. GM wanted $92,000 to replace my 2016 GMC DENALI ULTIMATE, per batum, no rebates, after the issues. I’m well aware of every make as its issue, but stay away from GM. Wonderful video! Anyone own a model similar to hers and mine with the faulty GM condenser, where the recall was putting piece of aluminum tape over the weakened connection area
I hate it when customers have to go through all that drama just to get some answers as to what is really going on. That being said, I definitely appreciate Dave's honesty with her. I know this is not an easy situation to deal with at all. One thing that I might suggest in this particular situation where a lot of the A/C components aren't visible without dismantling a bunch of stuff is to find a small opening (perhaps through one of the vents, somewhere around the steering column, behind the HVAC control panel and/or radio, behind the glovebox, and the cabin air filter location) that perhaps you can get one of those cameras with an extendable UV LED light inside in order to see what's going on. I've seen mechanics use this technique to determine if a cylinder head has a burnt valve by sticking one of these cameras inside the spark plug tube wells. I'm sure you could probably do something like that in this instance as well. It may not be 100% perfect but it should be just enough for you to see if any of the dye leaked out inside the dash. Hope this helps!
I have a 1993 Ranger 4.0 I special ordered new. Just finished an engine rebuild last fall. I live in Montana and my AC works great from October to May.
She has 0 clue about what he’s talking about
LMFAOOOOO
God loves a trier 🤷♂️😄
Such a ridiculous issue to have. I've never had an AC problem with a Toyota or Honda no matter how old. Never. Gm sucks
If she was my wife
She will understand everything,
You can tell she has zero clue about a lot of things.
I am mechanic my self and appreciate Dave’s explanation and giving worst case on job repair but as I have seen this issues many times over I would not be removing radiator or anything of that nature just to bring customer bill higher just to look at condenser, there is plenty of room to see with out taking front grill off and to make proper decision on if it needs it or not , also Chevy know for there high and low a/c lines to fail at compressor on 90 degrees bends and after all of that you can advice not other way around specially being in business for year we as trust worthy mechanics have plenty experience on know issues that fail and I would definitely not give customer complete new system because of one or two parts failure
Dave stay true to your roots
Thank you keep doing good by your customers 🤝
We use to just block off the rear ac with a billet block off kit you can buy after market, being in the rear of the car the rear Evap gets bounced around a lot more then the front does.
Front condenser is easier to get at if you remove the air intake piping and remove the upper radiator mount bolts and lay the radiator back on the throttle body and you can pull out the condenser/ inspection it without pulling the whole front clip off
Great video for consumer education. I look forward to watching your videos and not subjected to any advertisements. Keep wrenching!
Same thing happens here in
Rochester NY, you have dealers and repair shops that do nothing but lie.
They treat you as if you are a
mindless idiot and always try to do the cheapest repair possible. These after market warranties should be investigated by the government.
Totally agree on both points.
Thank you Dave! But if I may be a bit sarcastic-(thank you automotive engineers-🤣). Automobiles do not need to be so complicated to repair. You did a great job showing her what is involved.
The #1 indicator you need to remove your vehicle from shop- “ac just needs to be recharged”
Number 2 indicator shop owner blindly bad mouthing others with zero background knowledge
@@JOMaMa.. I’m assuming you’re talking about Dave here? You mean the guy who sat down and had a discussion with customer, then decided it was such a shitty story he’d capitalize on it and make a video? Yeah he certainly had no prior knowledge.
Bless you Dave for the time you spent with this customer.
The real A/C nightmares happen when the compressor chews itself up from the inside, and it's dying gift is to compress metal shavings into every corner of the system, and you need to change everything; condenser evaporator, reciever drier, and pray that you've flushed out the metal from all the lines, or the new compressor is doomed to go out the same way as the old one
agree
OH yeah you ain't kidding bro, last one i did i ran 3 quarts of cleaner through evap and condenser, i was still nervous about it. Blew it out forwards and backwards then new orfice and dryer. It worked fine for years till we sold the vehicle K5 blazer.
yep but understanding why it failed ,most dont no
Not that big a deal. Pull lines, flush, install compressor guard screens to catch anything that might not have been flushed out, move on. Have done 100s of these over the past 30 years.
@@D2O2 cant flush new condensers and evaporators ,they are micro channel they have become the filter. so have heater cores now.
I think Dave is trying to keep her costs in check and I applaud him for his efforts.
Lastly, I think he’s managed to hire a bunch of truly special and gifted mechanics! Always looking to help and as respectful as I’ve seen in years! Kudos Dave!
Condenser is a pattern failure on these GM trucks. Corrosion shows up under UV light.
I went to diesel tech school and let me tell you that I learn about the same watching Dave's videos. I am very grateful for this channel😎
Most of the AC systems I’ve worked on that leaked, I always replace all the o-rings before charging. Most of the time one or more of them were leaking from shrinking or getting hard. I wouldn’t charge one without doing that at minimum if I knew it had leaked down.
I always used nitrogen for leak checking. Put in nitrogen at 250# pressure and you can find any and all leaks.
We use co2 and the ats co2 sniffer and spray.
@@djschwenk3485 co2 will work but remember nitrogen is a dry gas where co2 is wet and will leave moisture in system causing you to leave vacuum pump longer still might not remove all the moisture.
Great consumer approach, clear advice... Lucky the customer contacted your shop, stop the bleeding. 👍
Most likely the condenser! Very common! Use dye, or charge up, and use big blue soap water, to find leak for sure, easy!
A lot of evaps have bad connections which should be replaced too probably same as condenser coils, they are all cheap junk and incredibly hard to access.
Condenser leaks at the receiver drier is the most common leak aside the manifold hose bracket off the compressor. GM trucks/ suvs have taken an even deeper quality dive since 2014.
DAVE!! Please do a video on these gadgets that turn back mileage…..this poor lady sounds like she got screwed by the seller who was a dealer…? How can we protect ourselves buying used cars? Can we detect if an odometer got turned back? Love the info you give. You’re a good man.🤗🤗🤗
If I remember correctly gm had a condenser issue on all Tahoes, Yukons, silverados and sierras from 2015ish-2019. I could be wrong but I remember reading something about that.
Excellent customer service and diagnostic skills. Excellent
Another type of leak detection is carried out with forming gas (95% nitrogen 5% hydrogen). To do this, the system is evacuated and then filled with forming gas. An electronic hydrogen sensor can then be used to search for leaks. The alarm is emitted both acoustically via a signal tone and visually via an LED display. The leak detector uses a new type of semiconductor sensor which is extremely precise. The 40cm long flexible probe made of stainless steel allows you to reach even hard-to-reach places without any problems.
their are many gasses can be used c02 , helium would be best
With it being a 2018 Tahoe, I would put money on the condenser, the lower weld on the driver side of it. Super super common leak on 2014+ Tahoe, suburban, youkon, Silverado, Sierra ext. Done so many of them I could do it in an hour with my eyes closed. Whenever one comes in the shop with a complaint of AC warm, that’s the first place I look and 90% of the time that’s it. GM has a TSB out on those condensers.
Dave you need to invest in more tools... a leak detector, and vacuum micron gauge.
So u won't be guessing, if you do a evacuation, test for leaks with a micron gauge, if it rises it has a leak, if it doesn't you don't, your wasting time and venting refrigerant. Leak detector can sometimes find leaks where you can't see.......... I can find the leak, without that proposal to expose the condenser
Totally agree
Love you, Dave, but I have to agree. You need AC tools to save hours of labor.
We already know it has a leak. It was charged and empty after a week. Leak detectors are not always a given either. I have an expensive one and it sits in its box
leak detectors suck .Try going in a warehouse with 10 freezer compressors running and telling where the leak is . He said looking at condenser because the huge leak she has will "SHOW" the oils stain where ever it is. Nitrogen is better than electronic leak non-detectors. Customers respond better to visual they they would the beeping yellow box.
If you run an A/C leak test with the A/C machine and it fails, You are NOT ALLOWED to charge the system. It also must be done by someone who has certifications for the refrigerant the vehicle uses.
Dave recharged the system then looked for leaks. You are right, that is not allowed by the EPA. First find the leak, then fix the leak, then recharge.
Yep, your the man dave, watching this makes me happy to have a '98 Grand Marquis with 80,000 mi and easy accessible AC system lol keep up the good work
Buy the SU R&R rear A/C block off kit. You cut the lines under the hood, cap them, reduce the charge and you’re good to go!
🎉🙏
Dave should read the comments some are spot on.
Are used to have a 1978 Chevy G 20 van. It had factory CN it and I did converted over to r 13:39 134 with a new condenser and sanden compressor. That system worked great for 20 years and still worked when I sold the van.
I've seen that look when you were explaining with the drawing many times from Mrs Mappud, it's the shut the fluck up and just fix it look... 😂👍🏼
Yep, a lot of customers don’t care what it takes they just want the issue resolved.
Yeah, she doesn't want her ac compared to a kidney.
@@WillE454 yes so true u cannot truly educate the customer its beyond their comprehension. but hey they dont do this for a living so i understand
He did well, ac work is hard to explain. I agree though, too many people like using the doctor analogy in order to explain things and I think its so stupid. You're not a doctor, you're just a mechanic lol.
Yeah, it's a tough call, but as many already know, replacing every component , hose and o ring, etc... is the only real way to know, and guarrantee...l might leave the evap, if its a huge amount of work to r/r,
And, if a refrigerant sniffer shows no leaks under the dash, but you may need to do it eventually in a day, a week, or a year, who knows.
And logistics, and hourly rates, parts, on newer vehicles can easily exceed 2k, and thats a legitimate low cost estimate, well l feel for this young lady.
Dave is as honest as they come, he tell's it like it is. Thank you for that Dave and co.
✌️❤️😁
Don't wast time explaining how things work, predominantly they have no clue about what you're talking about. Tried to explain something to a client once, he said "Im not interested how it works, I just want it to work".
Can't speak for everyone... sometimes I want to know... sometime I could care less.
I'm sure you appreciated his time. A little bit of knowledge goes a long way.
Had a gentleman one time tell me that. Also had a service manager tell me to do what you are suggesting, "give them the amount and shut up," what I personally found was when I shot them a price and shut up, my customer service numbers sucked, if I took time explaining it, my numbers were good. This is my honest opinion and has worked for me, the more complicated or extensive a repair, the more explanation of the repair is needed.
Example is an engine repair. "Hey customer, it's going to be $5k to re ring your engine, you want it done?" You literally got one sentence for a 5k repair. Short and sweet, seems like a lot of money for only one sentence. Just my opinion though. YMMV.
I think Dave has this figured out
If you don't explain everything you end up with the problem she's having with the other mechanics.
Whether or not they do understand i think its important for some people to have a basic understanding an appreciation for the people who have to work on these cars they way they are. For example what once was simple water pump thats just bolted on the side of the engine in plain view an would take maybe an hour is now buried inside the block where the timing chain is contained an takes all day an basically to remove the engine or remove the top end off of the block to access. An its gotta be done right or else it will destroy the engine.
you did an outstanding job explaining and showing what goes into diagnostic for ac work
A/C quits working expect a shop to start at $1K. It is not easy or cheap to fix A/C. Here in Ontario, Canada, if they cannot find the leak they drain and tag it and it is illegal to refill the system unless it is proven to be repaired. Most shops do not touch A/C because of this.
Canada is on its way to becoming a totalitarian society. The USA is not far behind. Thank goodness for elections. We can still do our own air-conditioning work here; R134a cost $10 for a 12-oz can
Do you even need AC in Ontario?
I really love how well Dave walks through and explains everything. I really wish I had a shop like his near me in Michigan.
I will be honest with you. You explained it great, however sounded very reluctant to fix it. 130000 miles is not much.
I’m surprised not to see any comments about pressure testing with leak trace gas or similar. I thought you guys in the USA were more up to speed on ac than us in the UK. Your systems are obviously larger than ours, but using leaktrace or Loktrace would be a big help to you. It is illegal in the uk to recharge a system with a known or suspected leak, without testing it properly ( many chose to ignore it though or are unaware)
In the US it is also illegal to recharge the system without first finding & fixing the leak. Trace gas is also used often in the US. I'm not sure if it's still allowed, but at one time the EPA would let techs add a small amount of refrigerant to dry nitrogen gas for leak testing with an electronic detector.
I own a 2001 Mustang GT. It was 2200 .00 to replace the entire A/C system. Car is worth on NADA about 4K but it’s worth more than that to me. Roush stage 1
Dave great video, as usual, following you for a long time now love your videos and am extremely jealous of your machine shop and skillset. We have lost all of our engine rebuilders in Canada. Not many rebuilders left anymore. If I find myself in Utah, I am coming to visit.
We have laws prohibiting the recharge of an A/C system, unless we do a leak test first and the car passes. We test with nitrogen to pressurize the system and test components before we are permitted to recharge the system. if the system holds pressure for 20 min it usually will hold refrigerant gas. shop owner/mechanic 40 + years Dave
Fucking warrantys are a scam, car shield n these others. Im a ex car shield guy. U pay 150$ a month then they give u a used part.
Dave you went to far with it I hope the little head wasn't doing the thinking they have nitrogen electronic leak detectors and you have a bore scope I have made 1/2 inch holes in evap cases and looked inside their and put a plastic under coating plug in keep up the hard work making videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
Evacuate, start sectioning off the system using plugs/caps and start vacuum leak testing different sections. Saves a lot of time and guessing where to start searching.
All the time. Ding. Ding...costing her money she does want to spend.
Need to tell her, it's going to cost you this much money for a diagnostic because of the time involved..that comes firsty.
Customer want a quick answer and pay no fee. Want a free diagnosis on your dime.
Detailed information Dave is doing,the honest truth is that Dave is a true mechanic,
Never purchase a car by yourself, always take an old man who's been around the block a few times. Also, if everything isn't working during a test drive, walk away. Also tell them you want your own mechanic to look it over before signing on the bottom line.
Great customer service in your videos. Those factor Ac condensers have been the most common leak on GM trucks and suvs starting about 2014+. If it has a grill shutter on the model just make sure it is open and you can look thru the driver side of the grill on the top blazed/welded connection of the Dryer. They crack there and leave oil residue around the area if it is a recent leak where the weather hasn't had time to wash some of it away. The ones I replaced the customers had it refilled before I talked to the and it lasted between a week to a day only in most cases.
South Maine Auto just posted an AC repair too. My buddy is replacing an ac compressor and condenser right now. 😅 Nightmares!
Eric is one of my favs.
Dave I don’t agree with removing the remaining refrigerant from the system weighing it and then adding back the deficient amount.
Those refrigerants are blends.
Meaning the system should be recharged with new refrigerant.
The other comment had a good point about pressure checking with nitrogen.
Pressure system to 350psi.
And use plain old bubble blowing soap.
It will not stain the automobile and washed away easily.
We are a commercial air conditioning company.
My father started in a/c auto installs in 1960.
He is now 82 years old still working some.
We love you Dave.
No hate only respect for you guys.
She could have bought a toyota sienna, but that wouldn't have looked as cool in the school pickup line. LMAO.
😂😂😂
Toyota sienna is cool probably more expensive and extremely hard to get
I knew I was gonna get more schooling on A/C leaks from this post but I also got a crash course in customer relations for bonus.
So Dave what did she wind up doing to resolve the problem? Those dodgy "car repair insurance" companies are more slippery than a bucket of eels to get payment from, and they have a million and one ways, always in fine print on the contract, to get out of it!
FREON IS A BRAND NAME. proper term should be refrigerant. 😊
That's for the newbies😊
When a person says Freon, we all understand what they are saying. Just like engine/motor, or coke/pop
I totally get this. As a plumber i run into this sort of issue all the time. Having to explain a whole system to explain why just throwing parts at it may no permanently fix an issue.
Dave what's up with the lambo engine
Waiting for the young man to procure parts 👍
Wau Wau Wau Wau absolutely amazing, why didn't you become a doctor Dave... Just you're a doctor for cars, and from what I've seen on the few minutes on camera, a good advocate on how humans being should behave. Hope the universe pays you ten fold all the way from Mozambique
Damn, Gina is stacked!
I need to go spend a weekend in Utah 👀
She is built better than that damn SUV 🚙 for sure!👍 🤣😂🤣
From an experienced tech here, anything that ever has rear A/C, I look there first. They are very often the source of issues. They sell rear A/C block-off kits now which will save a customer a ton of money if their rear air is the only issue. I’ve blocked off many rear heater cores and a couple evaporators.