Why Does My Airsoft Gun Motor Get So Hot?
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- Why Does My Airsoft Gun Motor Get So Hot?
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Whatever topic this guy is talking about I like!
He helps me out a lot, thanks for what you do brother! As well as
thank you for taking the time to show us newbies what’s up -you do a great job, the quality of your videos are excellent and detailed-keep up the good work!
Very nice videos and great explanations! I would really like to see a side-to-side review of some most popular motors in combinations with a Titan Advanced mosfet, and different gear ratios with 7.4V and 11.1V battery. What I am interested is to see how do they perform in different combinations, regarding ROF, response time, and amperage, especially the mAh-per-shot - which basically tells you the most about the motor efficiency.
Thank you for this very comprehensive video.
Ty for the informative video! it gave me strenght to overhaul my VFC Hk 416c another time, but this time i'll do it myself shimming and proper pinion gear alignment (i saw the other video). Relying on other people makes me unable to fully "understand" my gun and the whole amps thing/current draw was bothering me so much since i had blown fuses and very hot stock motor (vfc original one). I prolly go with 13:1 prometheus gears, tiensy 35k high torque, m120 o m100 (depends if i go overjoule euro specs) with bushings + 11.1 lipo .
very educational and explanitory thanks man
Hahahah, you so want to say" Resistance is futile" when talking about the fuse. Cheers for the info.
Another great video! Can you do a guide on motor maintenance? I looked through your older videos and I found one, but you talk about the theory. My interest was peaked, when you talked about "shimming" the axel...
Loving your videos :) Keep this tech stuff on =)
Great Videos, I love watching all of your videos.
How does your single point sling work on your plate carrier?
Great video and lot of help and tips but
1. I don't know how to take care of a motor
2. What is a good method to find right battery for a motor or set gun build
great job as always !
You know what popped into his head as he hesitated for a second when saying “inappropriately lubed” 😂 I thought I saw a bit of a sneaky smirk.
Do you think you could make a video a out Amp draw, and how to check it, and how to change it?
What RPM and brand of motor can i use for a 16:1 gear ratio, hope to hear from you.. more power to your channel..
Hi! I just wanted your help because I just bought an agm mp40 (I know its a crap gun) and I bought parts for it and even an 11,1 lipo and I dont know what kind of mosfet I should get. Please help me out
I recomend fuses for not to tech savy people or rental guns.
Do you have a video how to maintain the motor. Or tutorial thank a lot idol.
Speaking of the g&g combat machine 2.0 I just bought a new ics 25000 motor and semi works good but full auto it won’t feed also I only have a 9.6 ni battery have a 7.4 lipo coming in the mail tomorrow just curious if the motor is too much for the raider 2.0 or if it’s the battery as you were taking about also the new battery will be deens also any information would be greatly appreciated new to airsoft and trying to learn how to atleast tinker with my gun at first
Sometimes a hot motor can mean that you have to heavy every spring for that particular motor like I Taylor Farms that there was extra guy riding a m130 and a cyma M14 as a DMR and he was still using the stock motor which I highly advise against with anything that's over a 30k. Ideal you want a slower motor with a high-speed gears. Motor would like to get pretty hot. Of course if you're wearing gloves doesn't matter that much because gloves can dampen the heat from external sources. I worked in a factory and I have to wear saftey gloves and I actually got my fingers trapped in this machine that's there to seal plastic bags by melting them together and it did not burn me because I was wearing gloves. I only felt the pressure and no it wasn't super hard. Anyways good moral asami's to use a high torque motor with a battery that isn't the super high discharge rate. I recommend an 11.1 lipo with no more than 30C discharge rate. Anything higher is for if your gun locks up and you shoot full auto because of your regulations or full auto wasn't enough.
I do have military action high torque motor. It heats up fast and also the battery. When I change to stock motor it doesnt really heat up. Why is that?
Hey there,not sure if you saw my comment on a previous video. But a video series idea for AEPs would be awesome,tuning,upgrading,battery mods. Love the videos and quality you put into things. Keep up the great work!😁 P.S that online store to compete with brill armory and clan destine would get my support.....hard to find good prices and in stock items between the two.
hell ya!
Can we get one of thoes patches on your plate carrier? Is like to support. Unless I'm wrong.... looks like a logo for you :) much love man. Hope all is well
Can i used G&G 18k motor against SHS M150?...not going to used full auto...just single shots only
Hey there, do you recommend the guarder high torque motor?
Sorry about the three week hiatus... notice anything new? 😜
😯
Wall color, camera angle & computer screen moved! 😁
Didn't you move into a house?
Degree?
Can cheap amazon 11.1 volt battery's get hot on a 34 hundred rpm motor?
What kind of battery is that you suggested for a built setup
How do i know wich way the motor needs to but in
I got a Kwa ronin t6 and I’m using a 11.1 1300 mah 25c some ppl r telling that’s to strong nd sum telling me I’m fine so idk if I should just buy a less powerful battery
My crytac got hot af after a titan gate. Turns out it's active breaking.
If I go from a battery with 20amps to a battery with a 30amps
Can it brun it out?
I could use your help so bad on my build? I have so many questions
How can you measure the amp draw from a build ?
Active brake also creates some extra heat
My motor on my ssg gets hot after about 50 shots, I’m 90% sure it’s my shimming because that’s like the hardest thing to do for me, I have a asg 30k with is 18 tpa I believe and it works good it’s just my motor keeps getting hot
That video was tight!
Great video as always, video looks crisp! New lighting?
Would love a video about different motors, how TPA works and affect your system etc. How to know what TPA a certain motor have. Maybe you've covered this in the past but I could not find it. Keep it up dude! Cheers!
TPA is turns per armature, so how many wrapped layers of wire are on the armature.
You can find out the tpa ratings on most motors by googling it
Hmm, lot of info so I bought this new gun (arcturus) it's the Ak/scar mix has that foldable stock . So I don't play often yesterday I charged the battery, hooked it up carefully closed the rifle (top half slides on to main body) then pull trigger and I get nothing! Full or semi nothing ...so with in the 5 minutes I'm thinking maybe bad safety switch idk ... then I noticed the grip getting very hot, also with a funny smell, so I take it apart (only the half to get to the battery , and it was crazy hot a 11.1 1000mah ( yes dumb ass small) it's the only thing I can find to fit in the area it wants it...
I let battery cool down to try again, same thing like ... I just got this didn't even fire 3000 rounds , didn't even get to play was all missing around target.. I bought this cuz was recommended this (new CO to airsoft and its supposed to be solid) I'm not very good and mechanical shyt so ima have to find someone who good at taking it apart...
The only thing I can remember doing, that may be the cause or me breaking it. Was the last time I played with it, I did to battery died, which I was told I think to never let batter fully die idk how tho can destroy the motor if that's what's dead or shorted thx for great info
Gracias!!
If I can feel my grip getting warm through my glove should be concerned? Brand new umbrella armory Block 2
Hey man, any suggestion on how to change a pinion gear?
I don't have the tool to do it and I've heard the Evike tool breaks easily.
order the tool off of aliexpress. When installing the new one, put the motor in the freezer (in a ziplock bag), and heat the pinion in the oven at 350f for 15 minutes. Should slide right on?
ayy thx for making video from my FB req
Grip getting hot...??....strongly suggest you shim the Bevel gear up. Likely you are suffering from too much friction in this spot. This causes the motor to heat up very quickly, and your battery will use it self up 50% faster. You can afford some wiggle room in your shimming.....there is no perfect shim.....give and take is alway required, and all gear boxes are different. What works for one may not work exactly the same in another.
Bevel gear to pinion gear is the key.
I noticed yesterday(on semi spam) on my DSG build I just wrapped up its getting warm. Not horrible. My stock motor would get hotter on the stock build. Im running a Godzilla 5000 22TPA on an 18:1 DSG, SP140 spring currently, with a 2500Mah 100c 11.1. According to my titan its reaching 46 amps on semi. I am trying to figure out how to bring this down. Any tips?
@vettelover2009 I recently did another game where I was locked to semi only(gun shot JUST past the rps limit and i didnt have my usblink on me) and didnt notice it getting warm at all. Gun performs great and doesnt give issues so I aint messin with it.
Is a 51k bad?
Something odd with my gun was the motor, a stock g&g ifrit, had too many shims on the communicator housing, and got far too hot too fast. As soon as I took off one shim it immediately fixed all heat issues
yep too tight fitment, motor working harder
My ak overheats or something after 360 bbs
What battery would you recommend for a tienly 45,000 rpm brushed motor. The motor does not get extremally hot on an 11.1 but you can definitely feel the heat within a couple of minuets of burst fire and semi spamming. I am pretty new to tech work and could always use a second opinion I have done my best to alleviate stress in the gearbox but the motor still gets hot. Is this normal for high speed motors.
kypom lipo. if it stil heats swap motor
not sure if this is normal but i got a gate titan 12;1 gears ifrit 25k motor and a m110-m120 ish spring and i shoot around 300 rounds and my hands are burning hot, im assuming this isnt tho loli checked to make sure all my gears spin freely, ie i can spin them on bushings for around 1.5 seconds with grease before they stop, i cant seem to understand why my motor is getting so hot for.
Interested to hear the reply as mine behave exactly the same and melt things inside. I use a prometh high torque and semi auto for speed qb.
12:1ssg 28tpa?
Is a 40k good for a 400fps m4 with a 9.6? If not what would you recommend?
You’d be better off getting a asg 30k or a g&g ifrit
if i'm going to be honest. the holes in the grip really don't do much. I tried it in my DSG which has since been scrapped. I found that it just burned my hand after about 300 or so cycles, given, my shimming was great. i would also like your opinon. 13:1 SSG on a 14 TPA? i know, that sounds stupid, but, i figured why not try to get an SSG with DSG ROF and trigger response? maybe at the cost of a little bit higher current draw, but with the plus of not having to deal with the stress of a DSG.
I was running 13s with an asg 40k (pretty sure thats 14tpa but could be wrong) in my main for a while. While yes you dont have as much of a headache as you do with dsgs, its still pretty inefficient. It was drawing 60a on semi, so its definitely far less efficient compared to my build now which is 9:1 dsg with a 32tpa frankentorque that i built which is only drawing around 30a on semi.
@@danieleveringham8318 60 amps on semi?!
Apache review please
Stumbled upon this vid and realized, i have the EXACT same tshirt bro
I just bought the Lancer Tactical AEG High FPS ProLine M4 Spr Interceptor and was wondering if I should run an 11.1 lipo or 9.6 NiMH? I don’t know if the 11.1 will strip the gears but would like to hear your feedback
Don't do 11.1 unless you know that it can withstand it. I highly recommend a LiFe 9.9V. Great middleground between a 9.6v NiMH, and a 11.1v
I have lancer g3, 11.1 lipo no problems.
Can you give an actual explanation why a Deans plug is better than a Tamiya? I've seen several people say that and their only answer is that its the new "standard", but not actually explain why. All my guns and chargers and batteries, etc all have Tamiya plugs and I've never had any issues with the plugs, no voltage or draw issues. I'm an electrical diagnostic mechanic for a living and most times I check draw and current and I've never seen a good connector be the cause of any problems, only time we ever run into issues with connectors is corrosion, but that's in a automobile. In all my years of working on autos I've never seen a huge amp draw or voltage loss over less than 1 foot of wire regardless of connection type. So what's the reason? You could just say personal preference.
Deans offer a larger contact area and "lock" via additional spring pressure which results in way less contact resistance. In a "normal"/stock gun that´s not that much of a difference but with larger and stronger guns the current can actually get high enough to partially melt Tamiya connectors.
If I am looking to get a new motor for my lancer tactical lt-15, what would be a good budget motor if I was trying to do a high speed build
If you wanted high speed I wouldn’t use that gun as a base. I’ve heard the piston cracking fairly quickly on 25+ rps setups.
Yeah well “high speed” for me is like 20-23 rps with good trigger response. Budget ideas I guess
@@jameswalker6810 You could find some nice 22tpa or 24tpa motors for some sweet trigger response. You can find some nice SHS ones on Evike.
@@jameswalker6810 SHS or even the evike branded "Matrix" motors are good budget friendly options
one word - warhead industries :)
Please take off that holo sight off the vector. Can't watch..🙈
Hi your explanations and showing how your tec is done are awesome.im thinking of dsg my wiffle I know I would have to check the SHIMMING on gears and cut my tappet plate but do we have to buy a mosfet cant we use the stock trigger assembly I know there will be wear eventually on the switches I'm happy with one shot on semi,granted I know they also manage power etc.i have a long barrel and i would like to keep it and do a dsg but watching your vid you reccomend 300mm i would have to cut 200 mm.my question is why would the barrel be detrimental being longer the bb once shot will travel past 300mm or 500mm is it because you've shortened the pull on the piston and the next bb will hit the other bb because it is now quicker yes the piston has lost some power ,but the bb still leaves the gun and travels a far distance so I'm slightly confused,I was thinking of getting a 36 k motor I have 500mm barrel 6.01 still have my stock 6.03 tbore, was thinking of getting 13/1 gear 9tdsg and keep stock trigger assembly,if there is any holes in the piston housing couldn't I cover them or buy a solid housing so you gain some pressure back any thoughts or your expertise on this,or should I just leave the stock gears and swap my motor and shim my gears,and motor thanks marv.
I have a dsg 18:1 with a m110 spring installed, my motor is a chihai 19k 28tpa running on a 7.4v 4200mah 20c rc pack and my motor gets warm after say 30 rounds of semi. I also think the gears are perfectly shimmed.
Did i chose the wrong motor? Should i get a different battery?
Btw great video as usual.
Only an M110? That seems WAY to weak for a DSG.
@@philliprhodes7926 i live in germany, minors like me can only own guns under 0.5 joules.
@@callsign_armistice7168 I wouldnt run a DSG build on that low of a spring. Seems like its just asking for pre mature engagement and would damage the gun itself. If you have to keep it so low I would run a SSG build until you can up it.
@@philliprhodes7926 i dont have any problems with pme, i had with the standard cyma motor wich gave me around 35 rps now i have 25.
@@callsign_armistice7168 Id be very interested in your full build list if you dont mind. Been struggling to get my DSG to 300fps without PME.
Wery nice video!! Cool!!
Hey, I kinda need of your advice. Currently have a setup of AEG using SP160 spring, Gear is 18:1 and have a 2.2mah battery with 40c. What kind of motor should I use? I'm aiming for more on a high damage gun setup. But not sure what type of motor should I use and how much speed/power the motor should I need.
Hope you can help me with this. Thanks and God bless.
At least 22tpa imo
You should also mention that if your battery is undersized for the amount of amps being pulled, it will cause voltage drop, which causes more amps. Amperage is what creates the heat, so if you run a gun that needs 30 amps @ 12 volts, and the battery can only supply 20 amps @ 12 volts, then the voltage will drop to increase amperage. If you have a battery that can happily supply 35 amps @ 12 volts, you are likely only going to see a slight dip of voltage at startup, but run much lower amperage while cycling. This is because the motor requires watts, not technically amps. Watts = Amps x Volts. So the lower voltage causes higher amps and higher heat trying to meet the wattage requirement.
Yeah as a battery guy from rc's he skipped a bunch of good info about batteries and ratings lol. But other than that great vid
almost corect but the amps dont go up
So.... basically just go to a tech and get your gun worked on... got it 😂 ive been trying to learn basic teching but electtical engineer is kinda beyond my skillset lol
Can bad shimming also cause the motor to heat?
Yes it most definitely will
Absolutely, overshimming or bad shimming in general will cause more resistance, ergo cause your motor to work harder, drawing more amps etc
Hey bud if you get the chance check your Instagram I need to know some important info in regards to building you a new parallel armature
ive wanted to try shimming a motor but i dont have those yellow plastic shims on hand. is there a place i can find those or are you able to use the steel aeg shims, thanks
Ive used regular gear shims in my motors without any issues
What is your opinion on brushless motors? I come from an RC racing background end brushless motors revolutionized RC cars… I’m not sure why they’re not more prevalent in airsoft AEG‘s
They're the future of airsoft motors. Option no 1 does close to 50rps on a 20:1 dsg. Stock gun would be close to 30
I have a few questions. You say to keep high speed guns under 20 amps but the basic 13:1 and 30k motor usually draws well more than 20 amps. More like 30-35. How are you supposed to get that under 20 amps and still shoot 380 fps?
I run like 55 amps in my high speed SSG and its fine. 20 amps is pretty low. I would say if you don't already have them, get bearings instead of bushings, and go to a lighter piston/piston head
@@marinusdedreu3833 I think it is also important to point out that a 22tpa motor still draws ~24 amps on 12:1s. I think 20 amps is a goal to strive for but I don't think it is actually possible going over ~27 rps on an ssg
Like you said it’s more of a goal.
There are certainly setups that require 35+ amps to run. My whole point is that when you’re start to hit that amount of amp requirement maybe start thinking about switching up your setup to be more efficient.
@@englund_ yea , I’ve gotten 41 maxx rps on my ssg
Are you an RN?
Motors are pulling more energy that thay can to “rotate” the gun. Why the f**k whould i want to rotate my gun ? Ya mean da motor ? 3:24
Battery heat
Shame shame shame! When discussing batteries, the MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR to prevent motor AND ESPECIALLY LiPO over heating is the C rating of the LIPO, even LION, battery! A battery with a low "C" like 15 or 20 will over heat, puff and perhaps explode, along with over heating your motor! Go talk with any dedicated RC enthusiasts!
Hey mate, I'm from @airsoft.lab, that's another great video as always, but what you can explain about C rating?
I've been searching about it but got almost no clue, just that the C rating means how fast the energy goes from the battery to the motor or something like that. I'm in a case with my DSG that's a little bit strange, I use 2 Li-Po batteries on it, one is a 2600mah 11.1v 20C that runs all day with almost no heat after the games and the other is a 3000mah 11.1v 75C that I bought just to run on this DSG cuz I've always heard about "more C is better on DSGs cuz they pull a lot of energy", but it overheats my NikkSakk Brutal 26K motor after one 15min game, this could be the issue? Cuz it was hard to find a high C rating battery, but I'm almost selling it to buy another one with lower C rating.
First of all thank you for the video.
But I would like to point out the logical error in your video.
You say that Chinese motors are not so good. There is a logical error in that statement, the ASG motors and Tianli motors you list later are also made in China, including Taiwan in China.
This statement will mislead the viewer that Chinese production is not good.
It would be accurate to say that you should not recommend low-end motors and recommend some good motor brands (although they are almost all made in China)
首先感谢你的视频。
但我要指出你视频里的逻辑错误。
你说中国的电机不那么好。这句话有逻辑性的错误，你后面列举的ASG电机和Tianli电机也都是中国生产，包括中国的台湾地区。
这句话会误导观众中国生产不好。
准确的说应该是不推荐低端电机，推荐一些好的电机品牌（虽然他们几乎全都是中国生产的）