It's WAY faster and EASIER than oil
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 чер 2022
- Thanks Aquor for sponsoring this video. Go to aquorwatersystems.com/ and use my code "michaelalm10" for 10% off
This week I’m covering the basics of how to use water based finishes. I discuss why I love waterbased finish, when to use them, how to get the most out of them, as well as many tips and tricks I’ve learned over the years.
Affiliate links to Items used in this video.
Totalboat Halcyon Clear www.totalboat.com/product/hal...
Use code TotalALM22 for 10% off all Totalboat products
Elmers WoodFiller amzn.to/3tipgGm
Paint shield amzn.to/3mcVPS0
High Density Foam Rollers 6” amzn.to/3aKnkjz
High Density Foam Rollers 4” amzn.to/3zeqCpi
My Favorite Paint tray amzn.to/3x6iVPe
Camera Gear
Sony a6600 Mirrorless Camera - almfab.com/sony-a6600-camera
Cage for Sony a6600 Camera - almfab.com/rig-cage-sony-a6600
Camera-Mount Shotgun Microphone - almfab.com/shotgun-mic
17-70mm f/2.8 Di III-A VC RXD Lens for Sony E - almfab.com/tamron-lens-17-70m...
77mm NXT Plus UV Filter - almfab.com/uv-filter
577 Rapid Connect Adapter with Sliding Mounting Plate - almfab.com/rapid-connect
MT055XPRO3 Aluminum Tripod - almfab.com/tripod
Orion Jr DVC50 4' Compact Camera Crane / Jib - almfab.com/camera-crane
Aluminum Travel Tripod - almfab.com/travel-tripod
MC RGBWW LED Light - almfab.com/mc-led-light
PavoTube II 6C RGB LED Tube Light (10") - almfab.com/pavo-tube-light
Heavy-Duty Portable Tripod Dolly - almfab.com/tripod-dolly
360° Pan Lockable Bearing Mount to 3/8" Tripod Legs - almfab.com/bearing-mount
Tilt Brake for Orion DVC200, DVC210, and DVC250 Camera Cranes - almfab.com/tilt-brake
For project plans and more Alm Fab visit almfab.com
Instagram @almfab / almfab
Pinterest /almfab / almfab
Facebook /almfab / almfab - Навчання та стиль
I learned a cool trick from a painter. When you fill nail holes, put a coat of varnish or whatever you are finishing with first, then fill you nail holes. On a wood like oak it’s much easier to clean up the excess and the putty doesn’t get stuck in the wood grain.
I’ll have to try that!
@@MichaelAlm it’s a big time saver👍
What a great tip! Thank you for sharing! ❤️
You actually ideally want to use high gloss for all except the final coat. You can get away with using flatter finishes for more than one coat, but each coat will make the finish slightly more milky/chalky looking due to the flattening agents used to reduce the gloss level.
If you have little or no experience in using such products may I suggest that you get a few offcuts and spend a little time experimenting especially with a roller.
Michael did express the need for speed simply because water-based products do dry very quickly and if you don't work fast enough you WILL notice where you have overlapped.
Good luck with your venture and always remember, practice makes perfect.
Greetings from the UK.
Great tips here, thanks!
Your office space is looking good. I’m looking forward to seeing how you fit it out with furniture.
When your masking trim like this. I would suggest using a putty knife to help. It will help you both tear your masking straight, and put pressure to get it into tight corners. It just speeds up the process a bunch after you get use to taking advantage of one. Its also great if your working on a door with glass in that needs sealer cleanup. (I learned this from years of masking interior/exterior doors for finishing)
Good to know!! Thanks!
This is a great tip that I’m gonna remember
@@twobluestripes always happy to share those time and sanity saving tips:) we're all in this together after all :)
Looking good! Can’t wait to see the entire space set up. The wood finish is fenomenal!
That definitely looks thicker and easier to apply (especially vertical) than water-based stuff I've used. Great video and thanks for the tips!
Looks great, Michael. I've read the same thing (from other sources) about applying gloss under your satin finish.
Bill
I can’t wait for more finishing videos from you!
Absolutely gorgeous, Michael. That finish really makes that wood pop and great that it won’t yellow. I know it must feel so great to have such an awesome work space. And saw in one of your replies you’re going to do a patterned plywood door?!🤯 That’s going to look fantastic and really finish off the room. And we know you’re the king of patterned plywood.💜
First time seeing your videos was this office/garage project. Great job. Subscribed!
Same
That's some really nice wallpaper, look great with the wood 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Pretty nice work, Michael! The place is looking fantastic! 😃
Thanks for all the tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome info and tips! You did an awesome job, looks great!
Thanks! That Halcyon is 🔥
Great job Michael! Thanks for sharing the video with us!👍💖😎JP
Excellent advice. Thank you.
Good tip for covering ur brush or Roller especially if ur painting for a couple of days is Use CLING FILM to rap the BRUSHES or ROLLERS but rap the Brushes lightly.. Don't have the cling film wrapped tightly.. It will keep ur brush soft for 2/3 days.. Keep em in a cool place like a garage where there's no central heating near.. Cling film works a treat man.. Love the job u did on both areas..
Just did my patio furniture with Halcyon....came out fantastic. Yours came out to the same level of awesome. Definitely second the foam brushes and rollers! But, use quality ones...I had some come loose, as in the foam separating from the stick during one coat hahaha.
I’ve had the same thing happen!! It’s the worst.
I would change the outlet covers for something different. That white stands out like a sore thumb.
Most will be covered and I have a plan for the rest 😉
Looks great!
the finish looks amazing. but the outlet covers need to be black the white don't look at all. I think black outlets would match the wallpaper too
It's interesting. I didn't start serious woodworking until 2013 when I was building our dinning table. Having no experience or past in finishing woodworking projects, I did a lot of reading and decided to heavily invest myself into water based finishes. I thought, I might as well force myself to use and learn these, they are better for all the reasons Michael mentioned in the beginning and middle : they aren't toxic so no mask, easier clean up, dries in 1-2 hours, (doesn't yellow....this isn't something for me, I actually like the yellow look better), more modern and I'm young! I bought high end finish (General Finishes) and used it on a dining table and a few other large projects. After a couple years of this, it made me hate finishing projects. I couldn't stand it. It was impossible to get the finish to not have streaks and it was tough to keep a wet edge on large projects due to the quick dry time. It just made me so mad that I so much enjoyed the building part of my woodworking but loathed the finishing. Finally I said f***it, let's try oil based. But I still needed protection because I was primarily building tables and desks. Then I came across ARM-R-SEAL. Literally changed my life. Penetrates into the wood for a much better look than the water-based, still has a urethane portion for protection of the surface, 10X easier to apply and won't streak. It's just too easy. Haven't had a project since (that's indoors) that I don't use it for and now will never touch water based again. I guess the old-timers that I was initially fighting against were right. Just my story, if others (likely like Michael Alm) don't run into the same problems I did, water-based is probably fine.
You should make a video on how to install this Aquor water system. I would love to learn how to do that on an exterior brick wall too!
The trick with cutting in using a putty knife was shared on This Old House a few days ago, great job, why don’t they do wainscoting in the UK?
Have you tried using a dura block for sanding timber? I had a set for my bodywork. I tired it on timber and I was so impressed.
Outstanding!👍
Nice job I like ur videos alot of details thanks
There is a company out of Vermont that makes water based finishes out of Whey (the by product of cheese). I don't know how it compares to others I haven't used a lot but from an environmental level its amazing. It also has no smell so you can use it inside.
Love the paint shield! It's a duh moment for me.
I use a vacuum with a soft brush attachment. I find that air spreads the dust too much. Small jobs I use tacky cloth.
As always though you are a master at what you do. 🙂
Good job 👍
Impressive end result without doing any type of work that requires tools or skills that what would exclude most viewers from trying something similar.
One question on electrical as you have 20amp receptacles, do you have 12 gauge wire throughout the chain and a 20amp breaker? Last video showed some white NM cable which is of course currently associated with 14 gauge. Assuming it may be that it is older, as I don't know when yellow became the standard, but thought I'd check as it is against code to have a 20amp receptacle on a circuit rated for 15amps.
Other possible issue is that these must be TR outlets assuming this is in your home. I can't tell if these are or are not for sure but they don't look like they are.
Neither thing is a burn your house down issue, but either would cause a fail on inspection given you did new wiring and both would be easy, inexpensive fix.
One final issue would be that they may need to be AFCI protected as well as most all areas in a home do now. Also a relatively easy fix of getting a AFCI (or afci/gfic combo) breaker or an outlet for the first outlet on the chain.
I do a lot of woodwork around my house. Every time I put finish down, water or oil, I think about where I will be in 20 years and who will be seeing the finish then. I always think, I have put all this time into preserving the look of the wood, now what will the next owner do when they own it????? Probably just slap some god awful color paint on it and call it a day!! Negating all of my time and energy!
Would clear shellac also keep pine white? It's for a nightstand not getting direct sun. BTW. Your video on drawers is outstanding. I am self taught (except for watching Norm) and that was the most immediately impactful video/lesson I have seen so far.
I normally only use water based finishes in my house. But now I am totally clueless. I want a new desk from real wood. But wood over here is still crazy expensive. I really would like a walnut desk, and almost bought a panel last year. I hate myself for not buying it back then, because now it costs three almost four times what it did last year. Now I came across someone who used oak with a stain and that looked a lot like walnut. But oak is even more expensive than walnut. The only type of wood that is affordable even in a huge size and 1,5" thickness is rubber wood. I actually do like the appearance of the wood. I am thinking of using it in it's natural colour in my living room. But in my office I really still would like the walnut colour. In the store where they sell those panels, they told me that I can stain it in walnut colour. But I don't know. I am afraid it'll look weird and then it will become expensive if I don't like it, since I need to redo it then. So this is not really the place to ask perhaps, but I try it anyway... anyone experience with this? I am really afraid to end up with a fake looking desk since the grain of rubber wood is totally different to begin with than walnut, but also I have no idea how the wood reacts to stain. Any suggestions are absolutely welcome.
Water finishes need a slight sanding in between coats, especially after the first one. Water raises the grain, which oil does a lot lesser. So for smooth surfaces, sanding in between.
I never sand after the first coat. Too dangerous to accidentally sand through (as he mentions in the video...) and than you face the same problem again on the next coat. I lightly sand after the second or third coat and then just finish it with one final coat.
Looking gorgeous.
You must be stoked to have your own space! Just curious, how much finish did you use?
I am!! 😅 I used about 3 bags total
My old teacher always told us to never use compressed air to dust off before coting cuz you just blow the dust around. No clue how true it is tho and I can understand you don't wanna vacuum the whole room multiple times. But what are your thoughts on it?
Air compressor is definitely the less good way to do it. If this were an oil based finish then I would’ve vacuumed and wiped down the walls. The water based drys so fast you don’t have to worry as much about debris landing in the finish
Superb
Great video.
Would you have avoided the sanding between coats if when you sanded it originally you purposefully raised the grain with water then sanded again or is this something that would happen with the varnish anyway?
Thanks for the great tips.
Hey Andre, Good question. If you're really thorough with water popping and sanding before finish, you can avoid the grain raising later. In my experience, it's a lot more work to do it that way, and you end up with the same results. That's why I like to wait.
@@MichaelAlm Thanks Michael.
Great refurb Michael! Wat's you opinion on raising the grain using a water spray prior to WB finish?
Thanks! Good question! I used to do that, I found it was more work than it’s worth. Now, I just let it raise from the finish and knock it back on the second coat.
@@MichaelAlm thanks.
When should you reapply the finish or is it kinda like, it’s sealed and it’s done?
You shouldn't have to reapply this kind of finish unless it takes a lot of abuse from sunlight or moisture.
I am planning on making some wall panels out of ambrosia maple. I want to keep that same light color. Water based finish over a wax finish?
You’d probably okay either way. I’ve had good luck with water based on maple. Haven’t used it on ambrosia. Probably worth doing a test piece before you commit.
Would it be worthwhile to roll the finish on in a W pattern, like painting, and then roll horizontally over it to even out the joints?
Not really, home renovision diy has a great video on painting where he explains it better. Just going in lines makes a cleaner leading edge which blends better preventing small ridges in your paint. Obviously that is painting rather than staining, staining goes more into the wood rather than a layer, but you use the same skills to apply it so why not do it the same.
Osmo polyx effects RAW 3044 is my go to for light woods .. two coats brushed on. Bullet proof.
I’ll have to try that sometime!
I agree, Osmo do some fantastic products, although I use the wipe on wipe off method. Expensive but a little goes a really long way.
@@robertjones5988 you should never wipe Osmo off. It is a wax oil blend, you are wiping the wax off. Apply very thinly with a stiff brush.
@@bpt006 I have done a table and shelves in oak for the kitchen and had fantastic results. Matt Eastlea also wipes off the excess oil in his finishing kitchen worktop video (how to apply osmo polyX oil). I do get your point about wiping off wax but water pools on the surface without absorbing so it’s working :-/
❤️
How did you get those nice looking leave design on those walls?
It’s a wallpaper. It’s shown in my previous video ua-cam.com/video/KQlURGCGaTc/v-deo.html
The only success I had using Halcyon was thinning and spraying. Of course it was 90 deg. F
Why would you go for a varnish over water based poly here? I understand for high touch stuff you want a conversion varnish but poly would have been fine here, is that right?
Yeah, Poly would be fine. Varnish is a little stronger.
So is there a office desk in this build?
That’s the plan!
I just love Negreanu is going all in on woodworking! 😉
First off !! The room looks so good but for that shit door. You are going to make it a pattern plywood door! Right?
There’s a plan 😉
@@MichaelAlm YES!! Can’t wait to see that video.😊
Why not finish before installation?
You certainly could, but it’s a big hassle to find space to layout that much material
It has its advantages, but I absolutely hate how fiddly it is to apply.
Freemason Logo
Nice job, BUT is it just me or by spraying those rollers outside all the chimicals in the product, and yes waterbased products have chmicals too.. will end up in the ground.
That’s true but the question is whether that is a problem. It depends on what the finish is actually composed of, and whether it will cause problems environmentally. For instance, if it cures into what’s essentially an inert plastic, then the primary concern is that as it degrades, it will become microplastics dissolved into the groundwater or water runoff. It may not be any different than putting it in the trash, which goes to landfill. And if by rinsing the roller, you get future uses out of it, you’re probably improving the environmental impact overall and drastically reducing the amount of plastic waste (including the curing plastic-type finish) degrading and entering the water streams compared to if you put the rollers into the trash and used more of them.
If this specific product is labeled for hazardous waste, I doubt Michael would have rinsed it.
Each and there own after many attempts with wate i will run as fast as i can from it ,,its thin it run,s easy most of all it,s. Water and h20 raises the grain never ever in my shop again
Look like a sauna to me, not a office. But that's probably just me
I wrap my brushes and rollers in plastic wrap.
How necessary are 5 coats? Asking for a lazy friend.
Hahaha! 3 is a minimum, but your friend should probably do 4 just in case.
.
Thicc
3rd comment 😍
i hate water base sucks turns milky
Been a decorator for forty years. If I see someone putting the first coat of primer or varnish with a roller there cowboys. That wood should be applied one slat at a time. This was embarrassing 😳
Huh?
@@alans1816 What part of my comment didn’t get? HUH! Here’s a freebie use cling film.
You mean “they’re”?
@@Annie261. At least someone in the family can Teach!
Sounds like you have a lot of experience: could you explain why not to use a roller under these circumstances?
Really bugging me that you didn’t line the wood up to the top of the door 🫣
There’s still more to do in the space 😉
@@MichaelAlm I should’ve known there’s a method to the madness, looking forward to seeing what you do!