1. You need to lube the ball end at the sickle bar head. 2. You are missing the spring an fork that keeps the pitman connection to the head. 3. Go back to the wood pitman arm after the above are fixed. The wood is lighter so reduced the reciprocating mass. Also, it is supposed to be the sacrificial part of something would go wrong. No. 5 is famous for cut quality and durability. We used to cut 15,00 bales per year and broke less than 1 pitman per year. Keep the sickle sharp. Get some jeans, boots, gloves, and a hat.
Over the years I've had 4 of those John Deere No. 5 mowers. Pulled 'em with a John Deere MT, an Allis Chalmers WD-45, an Allis Chalmers CA, a Farmall H. You can make 'em work on any tractor. I made up a bunch of those Pitman rods and kept 'em in the freezer so they wouldn't dry out.
I have mowed a lot of hay with an old John Deere number 5 and a Farmall Super M. The number five was a rather light duty mower but when the Cycle bar was tuned right it mowed better than a new Holland 451 that my dad used. I like you had two other junk mowers that I use for parts. I kept three premade Pittman and Rods made from oak made up ahead because I was afraid to put a steel bar in place of it.
Good work on fixing your mower. I grew up on a farm and used a mower like that. The A it hooked on did not have a 3 point. There were round attachments it bolt to on each side of the draw bar. We did have a hydraulic cylinder on it so you didn't need to use the lever.
You are correct. After looking at the John Deere a little closer I dont think it was used on that tractor. My grandfather had a few tractors it could have went on.
I am right there with you, almost literally, with trying to make hay with old equipment. I have a 50' 8n, a $50 JD No 5 mower (the knife bar broke off about a foot from the end, but otherwise looks good) and my big expense, $250 for a Massey-Ferguson #11 rake. I think I could have gotten the rake for less, but the guy delivered it, so no complaints. I have been working at clearing a small field on our small 5 acre homestead, with the goal of putting up loose hay for our goats in an effort to avoid having to buy hay. Seems like you have the right idea that everything on this old machinery is meant to kill you. Just keep that in mind and treat them with respect. In the end, you are just growing, cutting, drying, collecting and storing grass. A lot of different ways this has been accomplished over the years. A note on the 8n, I found a cheap hub for mine for less than $50. Took a little looking. My 2 cents on the pitman, I would stay with wood. It is meant, to be a sacrificial bit. A pain sometimes, to be sure, but I worry about what problems the metal one creates.
It sounds like you have a nice setup! It would be nice to get the ford fixed, I will have to look around a little more. Did you find you're hubs new or used? I am also a little worries about the pitman are being metal but we will see. Thanks for you're input!!
@@HumbleAcres Time will tell on the set-up. Lol. I found the hub new, but it was obvious based on the packaging and the surface rust it had been sitting on the shelf awhile. Should clean up fine. I got the thing maybe a year ago and still have not installed it because that hub nut is going to likely need some heat and I don't have the torch. Raced sports cars for 30 years and one thing I never bought for the shop. Tried a long pipe on the breaker bar and it was not budging. Ideally, I know you should replace the axle with the hub, but I took a flyer on the axle not being too bad. Though it was bad enough I popped a stud, but I tightened up the wheel and I have continued to use it w/o an issues since. My seals have never leaked and I still have one good brake. I should get it done before the snow flies as the back and forth of plowing I am sure aggravates things.
You have a lot of resistance with the pitman where it attaches to the sickle, and also where the sickle slides back and forth on your cutter bar. Part of the reason the irons were really hot when you picked them up. You obviously don't know how to turn a square corner when you reach the end when turning. Use your right turning brake and slow down to turn. The first round around the field the part you are driving on is called the back swathe and you can mow it backwards of the direction you started opening up the field.
Just came across your channel. Constructive criticism here. You really need to get some decent pants and some real shoes to work in. You are seriously asking for a bad accident especially with your feet. The farm is no place to wear pool boy clothes. Otherwise, it is watching you learn about what you are doing.
I have a JD 5, but it's a pain to hook up. It can't directly mount to the 3pt hitch because it has C-style lower lift arms for the hookup. It's essentially like trying to hitch a tractor to another tractor at the 3pt hitch. Kinda annoying. Have you run into anything like that? Is there an adapter that I'm missing? Any thoughts?
invest in the quick hitch 3 point adapter from harbor freight. its only $109 and makes a WORLD of difference. Just lift instead of messing with the dang pins
I am wondering, you have the step up/step down auxillary transmission in that N series as you showed us- that can also overdrive or under drive the power take off unless you are in "direct" In other words the ground and PTO speed that tractor had using the original 4 speed. The mower was designed to use a 540 rpm PTO. I wonder if you are overspeeding the sickle and possibly contributing to the wear and failure? Just a thought. You can get a cheap photo tachometer that uses a piece of reflective tape on a pulley, find 540 RPM give or take 10 and set the throttle and speed there.
Look into a redi repair sleeve to go over the worn area on the hub, they are a thin stainless steel sleeve that presses on to the worn hub Industrial supply houses have them and Napa can get them. You will need accurate measurements to determine which one to buy
@@HumbleAcres Hardly anyone wants the old stuff anymore, the big operators have all gone to round bales, so once it has been sitting a while it pretty much can be had for scrap price from what I have found.
It is filled to the bottom bolt of the pto engagement lever and then thinking that still might be to much I drained more out with the same results. Thanks for the idea though.
Dude i grew up cutting hay like that!!! First thing is you are trying but you need some boots and gloves!!! You gonna lose ir brake a toe or foot!!!! You need some coaching!!! But you get an A for your effort!!!!
1. You need to lube the ball end at the sickle bar head.
2. You are missing the spring an fork that keeps the pitman connection to the head.
3. Go back to the wood pitman arm after the above are fixed. The wood is lighter so reduced the reciprocating mass. Also, it is supposed to be the sacrificial part of something would go wrong.
No. 5 is famous for cut quality and durability. We used to cut 15,00 bales per year and broke less than 1 pitman per year.
Keep the sickle sharp.
Get some jeans, boots, gloves, and a hat.
🤣 I think this comment could save a life.
Love the upgrade! Hey, you got the job done, that's the important part!
It works just hope I don't break something major.
Over the years I've had 4 of those John Deere No. 5 mowers. Pulled 'em with a John Deere MT, an Allis Chalmers WD-45, an Allis Chalmers CA, a Farmall H. You can make
'em work on any tractor. I made up a bunch of those Pitman rods and kept 'em in the freezer so they wouldn't dry out.
They are pretty versatile mowers.
good job
I have mowed a lot of hay with an old John Deere number 5 and a Farmall Super M. The number five was a rather light duty mower but when the Cycle bar was tuned right it mowed better than a new Holland 451 that my dad used. I like you had two other junk mowers that I use for parts. I kept three premade Pittman and Rods made from oak made up ahead because I was afraid to put a steel bar in place of it.
Good work on fixing your mower. I grew up on a farm and used a mower like that. The A it hooked on did not have a 3 point. There were round attachments it bolt to on each side of the draw bar. We did have a hydraulic cylinder on it so you didn't need to use the lever.
You are correct. After looking at the John Deere a little closer I dont think it was used on that tractor. My grandfather had a few tractors it could have went on.
I am right there with you, almost literally, with trying to make hay with old equipment. I have a 50' 8n, a $50 JD No 5 mower (the knife bar broke off about a foot from the end, but otherwise looks good) and my big expense, $250 for a Massey-Ferguson #11 rake. I think I could have gotten the rake for less, but the guy delivered it, so no complaints. I have been working at clearing a small field on our small 5 acre homestead, with the goal of putting up loose hay for our goats in an effort to avoid having to buy hay. Seems like you have the right idea that everything on this old machinery is meant to kill you. Just keep that in mind and treat them with respect. In the end, you are just growing, cutting, drying, collecting and storing grass. A lot of different ways this has been accomplished over the years. A note on the 8n, I found a cheap hub for mine for less than $50. Took a little looking. My 2 cents on the pitman, I would stay with wood. It is meant, to be a sacrificial bit. A pain sometimes, to be sure, but I worry about what problems the metal one creates.
It sounds like you have a nice setup! It would be nice to get the ford fixed, I will have to look around a little more. Did you find you're hubs new or used? I am also a little worries about the pitman are being metal but we will see. Thanks for you're input!!
@@HumbleAcres Time will tell on the set-up. Lol. I found the hub new, but it was obvious based on the packaging and the surface rust it had been sitting on the shelf awhile. Should clean up fine. I got the thing maybe a year ago and still have not installed it because that hub nut is going to likely need some heat and I don't have the torch. Raced sports cars for 30 years and one thing I never bought for the shop. Tried a long pipe on the breaker bar and it was not budging. Ideally, I know you should replace the axle with the hub, but I took a flyer on the axle not being too bad. Though it was bad enough I popped a stud, but I tightened up the wheel and I have continued to use it w/o an issues since. My seals have never leaked and I still have one good brake. I should get it done before the snow flies as the back and forth of plowing I am sure aggravates things.
Maybe the Mowers Gear is different but we just used 2 Horses at a walk with a very similar John Deere mower.
Good job on the fixes - looks like a nice stand of grass in most places!
It has been dry so I am pretty surprised how much there was.
You have a lot of resistance with the pitman where it attaches to the sickle, and also where the sickle slides back and forth on your cutter bar. Part of the reason the irons were really hot when you picked them up. You obviously don't know how to turn a square corner when you reach the end when turning. Use your right turning brake and slow down to turn. The first round around the field the part you are driving on is called the back swathe and you can mow it backwards of the direction you started opening up the field.
I appreciate the Info. The brakes on the Ford don't work or else I would use that turning technique.
Just came across your channel. Constructive criticism here. You really need to get some decent pants and some real shoes to work in. You are seriously asking for a bad accident especially with your feet. The farm is no place to wear pool boy clothes. Otherwise, it is watching you learn about what you are doing.
At least you have the skills to improvise and repair the farm equipment when breaks.
the reason that part is wood is so you don't break the pto shaft or anything inside the tractor
I have a JD 5, but it's a pain to hook up. It can't directly mount to the 3pt hitch because it has C-style lower lift arms for the hookup. It's essentially like trying to hitch a tractor to another tractor at the 3pt hitch. Kinda annoying. Have you run into anything like that? Is there an adapter that I'm missing? Any thoughts?
invest in the quick hitch 3 point adapter from harbor freight. its only $109 and makes a WORLD of difference. Just lift instead of messing with the dang pins
I have thought about doing that, just didn't want to spend the money. I'm sure it would save a lot of time.
I am wondering, you have the step up/step down auxillary transmission in that N series as you showed us- that can also overdrive or under drive the power take off unless you are in "direct" In other words the ground and PTO speed that tractor had using the original 4 speed. The mower was designed to use a 540 rpm PTO. I wonder if you are overspeeding the sickle and possibly contributing to the wear and failure? Just a thought. You can get a cheap photo tachometer that uses a piece of reflective tape on a pulley, find 540 RPM give or take 10 and set the throttle and speed there.
I really do need to measure the speed of the shaft.
Look into a redi repair sleeve to go over the worn area on the hub, they are a thin stainless steel sleeve that presses on to the worn hub
Industrial supply houses have them and Napa can get them. You will need accurate measurements to determine which one to buy
You are doing a good job with the older equipment. Where did you find all the old stuff you have for around $300? I would like to find some also.
Just searched Facebook and craigslist for good deals.
@@HumbleAcres Hardly anyone wants the old stuff anymore, the big operators have all gone to round bales, so once it has been sitting a while it pretty much can be had for scrap price from what I have found.
Need gloves and shoes.
So I just found your channel and am very impressed with your farm work. May I ask whose farm was this? I’m assuming it was someone in your family.
You have too much oil in the transmission. Go to 8n tractor site for info. That why it leaks on brakes.
It is filled to the bottom bolt of the pto engagement lever and then thinking that still might be to much I drained more out with the same results. Thanks for the idea though.
if you hit a rock or a stump with that mower with your mods on you can kiss that gearbox goodbye
It is made to be the weak point i like the fact your working at it but please use real footwear farming is hazzardous work
He will learn when a toenail is destroyed causing great pain.
Dude i grew up cutting hay like that!!! First thing is you are trying but you need some boots and gloves!!! You gonna lose ir brake a toe or foot!!!! You need some coaching!!! But you get an A for your effort!!!!