Watching these videos brings me back in time to my younger days where I got to see lots of these jobs being done. Nice explanation Jerry, of different options when it came to cleaners.
Not all after market bumpers are equel. Still amazes me you fully assemble then paint. The way you were taught. My painter JUST LOVES plastic bumpers! Laugh out loud! Thanks for the video.
My boss made us put it together first 'cause at that time we were getting paid by the hour and he didn't want to pay for mess ups I guess. I thought it worked great and we never really had any problems or complaints doing it that way. You're welcome and have a great weekend Bill - always good to hear from you :)
There's a saying: "If it floats, you must promote." Cut a small piece off the back and put in some water. All polypropylene bumpers need a promoter. Urethane doesn't. An activated sealer is a must. Epoxy is best. 2k is fine too if that's what you have. It helps with adhesion of the other products and slows down chipping. POLYVANCE has a product 'bumper and cladding coat' that eliminates the need for ADPRO. But, you can't use an activated base on it. Sticks like glue.
To be honest, we used to paint right over plastic bumpers at the body shop I first worked at - didn't even prime them. We did use a flex additive though - I'm thinkin' they held up pretty well 'cause we never had any come back. This is if you really want to play it safe :)
Thanks Curtis. There's quite a few different approaches. There's a group that paints the bumper first then installs it and then this way. You can even cut in the edges first if you want - install it and paint. What even works best and easiest for your situation :)
You have a great weekend too RR. Always a pleasure hearing from you and glad the videos help. I plan on continuing for some time - I enjoy making them and answering comments and questions. ✌
Nice job. I have a question, if you tape off the parts you don't want painted and then after painting the bumper you remove the taped section does the paint over time peel off at the those are where it's painted and not painted?
@@LakesideAutobody these people painted my whole bumper and now paint to parts that need to be black back to black again. I knew I was right because that's the way it came the factory. Thanks for your help.
Better than factory 😎 👍 Ps:do you have tire and balancing machines? I'm thinking of buying. Been tired of tyre stores and people.. And tyres are very much cheaper on the internet.
Me too! I became sick and tired of tire places after I've had too many of them leak or loose air slowly. They don't care and don't clean the rim well, put in a new stem, clean the stem mounting area, use sealer, etc. Now that I do my own tires, I have zero leakage! Here's a video on how I do it but would like to get better tools eventually - ua-cam.com/video/TGOBlugymhs/v-deo.html Good to hear from you Petar - have a good weekend my friend :)
Can I ask how long after the adhesion promoter do you spray the primer? And how long after the primer can you paint it. And do you let paint dry before doing the clear coat?
Wait 5-10 minutes before the primer. Each primer is different. Lacquer primer can be painted over in 10-15 minute. With urethane I'd read the TDS or instruction on the can but usually a couple hours will do. If really light coats are used you can spray as soon as it is dry or can be sanded :)
Thanks for the video Jerry. Did a Trailblazer not long ago (was a flip car). I should have installed it then painted it! Lol. Have a great holiday weekend. Randy
What’s the paper called and where can I purchase this 12” paper can you do a video of mixing reducer with primer reducer/base coat mixes please. how you mix the clear coat all that for us begginers all the ratios from the can ratios/reducer to your air gun sprayer. Thank you
I have a used painted bumper, and it has a few spots where there is some damage leaving bare plastic. I have a can of Bulldog adhesion promoter, should I use that on those areas? What can I use for filling...will regular filler or primer/surfacer be OK without a flex agent? Thanks.
I've used regular filler on plastic bumpers and never had problems as long as the area is not flopping around. If it's a hole or a crack and it ain't moving - you're good. You can certainly use the adhesion promoter on the bare plastic too :)
Hey, quick question. I took the autobody course at my college, got the diploma, so I feel pretty confident in respraying my car. Its a 2004 honda accord. I will be adding a full new body kit, and they will either be frp or abs plastic for the body kit. Its not tested like the one you did here. So I will be respraying my whole car but using the same existing colour. Do i need to sand it all down to bare metal, then use primer, then paint, or can I just sand down to printer, then paint? So basically, do I need to re-prime or can I just go straight to paint? And also, I'm a little confused as To why you clearly coated it, but then will be spraying it in a few days? For my case, I can just prime and sand them paint all in the same day, right?
If the paint is in good condition, you can just DA sand with 240-320 your choice. Or you can even scuff then paint. If you DA sand and accidently get metal, you'll have to prime those areas. Yes you can sand, prime and paint all in one day. You can paint a car in one day - it's done very often in body shops
Jerry can I use bondo to fill minor dings in plastic bumper cover? What’s the sequence to perform repairs like this? I’ve sanded the clearcoat with 400 grit.
Bondo will work fine as it does have some flex to it even after it has hardened. Usually you can DA sand the ding or damage with something like 220 grit (any grit works though). The 400 will do. Fill, sand, prime, block, prime again, finish sand, paint. When working the filler, you'll want to get it really close with a cheese grater so that you're not tempted to use course sand paper and have deep scratches to deal with. Best way is to get it close with the grater, then use 80 on a small block, then DA sand to finish. I have a video coming up this Friday on that process believe it or not 😊
In areas without bondo or repairs should I just sand the existing clear then prime the whole bumper cover? Then paint the whole cover, then clear the whole cover?
Question on the Ford Crown Victoria front bumper cover, what's the difference between the cover with an apron or without an apron? What exactly is the apron and what does it look like?
I think the one without apron doesn't have the molding holes. Not sure though - the pictures look the same on Ebay and Amazon. Let me know if you find out - curious now :)
@@LakesideAutobody I'm just not sure exactly what they consider the apron. I suppose I could go to my local Ford dealer and ask the body shop. I like you said the pictures I've looked at online there's no defined part called the apron that I can see.
What's the theory behind priming it after scuffing and adhesion promoter instead of going straight to the color coat? Are you eliminating scratches from the scuffing since it's a metallic color?
At a place I worked we scuffed the bumper and painted and never had issues - used flex additive though. So if you don't problems with paint flaking off keep doing it the way you are used to. I'm sure it's done a bit differently from shop to shop. Epoxy primer sticks well to plastic, metal, aluminum, fiberglass, etc. and like you said helps fill any imperfections, sand scratches, etc. Have a great labor day weekend my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Have a great weekend as well. Thanks for the quick reply. BTW I tested Bulldog adhesion promoter on glass and paint just to see the longevity and adhesion over time. Straight paint on glass started flaking within a year. Bulldog and paint got tougher over about 30 days. You could still scrape it off with a finger nail over the 1st couple of weeks; after a month you couldn't scrape it off any longer. 3 years later now, and I can't scrape it off with a finger nail. There is zero flaking of the paint.
@@Randazler Did you etch the glass or sand blast it first? Interesting.... never really thought about painting glass. Thanks for your comment - I'm going to look into how to paint glass :)
@@LakesideAutobody no etching just bulldog and paint. I do art work and painted straight unprepped glass other than cleaning years ago. It all flaked so when i got into automotive I learned about bulldog...no more flaking. You can do bulldog and do the decorative epoxy over it also on glass. In fact you can mix autopaint in the epoxy...the kind you use for countertops. I did a 7 ft counter top with epoxy. auto paint and powder pearls mixed in a couple of years ago had no issues with it cracking or anything. It looks great.
The epoxy has an odor of course but it seems to encapsulate the paint smell so it doesn't smell too much like paint fumes. I did it in the living room with a low odor counter top epoxy without too much toxic smelling fumigation going on.
Hi Jerry. Love the project, adhesion promoter is a must, especially if not using flex agent. I've seen plastic bumpers spider really bad with minor bumps otherwise. Have a great holiday weekend my friend!!
Nice video I have personally just spray plastic coating 2 coats and then spray my base coat some people say spray 2k primer over the plastic addition promoter dose both method work jery ? Thank you for the video jery
I painted a new bumper for a foxbody about 8 years ago, cleaned it, scuffed it, used nason ful base and 498 clear and it still looks brand new, except that my son hit a racoon at 70 mph, otherwise the paint is almost flawless ,but you rs being textured, yes, adhesion promoter is probably the safe route, love your videos and intros
I had a small garage built just to do mechanical work on our cars and small projects - never expecting to do YT videos. I made the mistake of not putting in 220. This is really the largest one I can run or at least the most SCFM I can find right now 😊
Watching these videos brings me back in time to my younger days where I got to see lots of these jobs being done. Nice explanation Jerry, of different options when it came to cleaners.
Thanks 👍 my friend - have a good weekend ✌ Hey Mark. What part of Canada do you live in?
@@LakesideAutobody upper southern manitoba. Email me I will tell you more. You have a great weekend as Well!
Not all after market bumpers are equel. Still amazes me you fully assemble then paint. The way you were taught. My painter JUST LOVES plastic bumpers! Laugh out loud! Thanks for the video.
My boss made us put it together first 'cause at that time we were getting paid by the hour and he didn't want to pay for mess ups I guess. I thought it worked great and we never really had any problems or complaints doing it that way. You're welcome and have a great weekend Bill - always good to hear from you :)
Great video Jerry this project is coming together nice!…enjoy your holiday weekend ✌️
Thanks, you too my friend - it cooling down at night but still too hot for my liking. Enjoy your weekend :)
Amazing work on preparing the plastic bumper for paint and professional tips. Thanks Jerry 👍
Hey Vicshone - nice to hear from you - hope everything is going well. Thanks for the kind words :)
Awesome content Sir. TYVM 💯👍👀😎👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it Diamond D - thanks for the comment :)
There's a saying: "If it floats, you must promote." Cut a small piece off the back and put in some water. All polypropylene bumpers need a promoter. Urethane doesn't. An activated sealer is a must. Epoxy is best. 2k is fine too if that's what you have. It helps with adhesion of the other products and slows down chipping. POLYVANCE has a product 'bumper and cladding coat' that eliminates the need for ADPRO. But, you can't use an activated base on it. Sticks like glue.
Thanks for the input Kent - have a good weekend :)
So it sounds like the epoxy primer does not adhere well to raw plastic?
To be honest, we used to paint right over plastic bumpers at the body shop I first worked at - didn't even prime them. We did use a flex additive though - I'm thinkin' they held up pretty well 'cause we never had any come back. This is if you really want to play it safe :)
Looks great 👍. But I thought you had to cut in the edges first?
Where it mounts to the other panels?
Take care bud!
Thanks Curtis. There's quite a few different approaches. There's a group that paints the bumper first then installs it and then this way. You can even cut in the edges first if you want - install it and paint. What even works best and easiest for your situation :)
Your videos have really helped me in auto body. Thanks for posting them. Have a great Labor Day Weekend Jerry!
You have a great weekend too RR. Always a pleasure hearing from you and glad the videos help. I plan on continuing for some time - I enjoy making them and answering comments and questions. ✌
Nice job. I have a question, if you tape off the parts you don't want painted and then after painting the bumper you remove the taped section does the paint over time peel off at the those are where it's painted and not painted?
Sorry about the late response. It will not peel if those areas you painted are prepped correctly.
@@LakesideAutobody these people painted my whole bumper and now paint to parts that need to be black back to black again. I knew I was right because that's the way it came the factory. Thanks for your help.
@@picadoart Are you happy with the way they did it?
@@LakesideAutobody haven't received my car yet till next Friday
@@picadoart 👍
Better than factory 😎 👍 Ps:do you have tire and balancing machines? I'm thinking of buying. Been tired of tyre stores and people.. And tyres are very much cheaper on the internet.
Me too! I became sick and tired of tire places after I've had too many of them leak or loose air slowly. They don't care and don't clean the rim well, put in a new stem, clean the stem mounting area, use sealer, etc. Now that I do my own tires, I have zero leakage! Here's a video on how I do it but would like to get better tools eventually - ua-cam.com/video/TGOBlugymhs/v-deo.html Good to hear from you Petar - have a good weekend my friend :)
Can I ask how long after the adhesion promoter do you spray the primer? And how long after the primer can you paint it. And do you let paint dry before doing the clear coat?
Wait 5-10 minutes before the primer. Each primer is different. Lacquer primer can be painted over in 10-15 minute. With urethane I'd read the TDS or instruction on the can but usually a couple hours will do. If really light coats are used you can spray as soon as it is dry or can be sanded :)
Thanks for the video Jerry. Did a Trailblazer not long ago (was a flip car). I should have installed it then painted it! Lol. Have a great holiday weekend. Randy
You have a good one to Randy. I do hate putting stuff together with fresh paint. I promise you, I will mess it up!!!
What’s the paper called and where can I purchase this 12” paper can you do a video of mixing reducer with primer reducer/base coat mixes please. how you mix the clear coat all that for us begginers all the ratios from the can ratios/reducer to your air gun sprayer. Thank you
I have a used painted bumper, and it has a few spots where there is some damage leaving bare plastic. I have a can of Bulldog adhesion promoter, should I use that on those areas? What can I use for filling...will regular filler or primer/surfacer be OK without a flex agent? Thanks.
I've used regular filler on plastic bumpers and never had problems as long as the area is not flopping around. If it's a hole or a crack and it ain't moving - you're good. You can certainly use the adhesion promoter on the bare plastic too :)
Nice job, Jerry. Always informative. Have a wonderful Labor Day weekend!
You too Michael - I appreciate the kind words :)
Hey, quick question. I took the autobody course at my college, got the diploma, so I feel pretty confident in respraying my car. Its a 2004 honda accord. I will be adding a full new body kit, and they will either be frp or abs plastic for the body kit. Its not tested like the one you did here. So I will be respraying my whole car but using the same existing colour. Do i need to sand it all down to bare metal, then use primer, then paint, or can I just sand down to printer, then paint? So basically, do I need to re-prime or can I just go straight to paint? And also, I'm a little confused as To why you clearly coated it, but then will be spraying it in a few days? For my case, I can just prime and sand them paint all in the same day, right?
If the paint is in good condition, you can just DA sand with 240-320 your choice. Or you can even scuff then paint. If you DA sand and accidently get metal, you'll have to prime those areas. Yes you can sand, prime and paint all in one day. You can paint a car in one day - it's done very often in body shops
@@LakesideAutobody OK, awesome, thanks so much for clarifying :)
@@HockeyLAKings119 👍😊
Jerry can I use bondo to fill minor dings in plastic bumper cover? What’s the sequence to perform repairs like this? I’ve sanded the clearcoat with 400 grit.
Bondo will work fine as it does have some flex to it even after it has hardened. Usually you can DA sand the ding or damage with something like 220 grit (any grit works though). The 400 will do. Fill, sand, prime, block, prime again, finish sand, paint. When working the filler, you'll want to get it really close with a cheese grater so that you're not tempted to use course sand paper and have deep scratches to deal with. Best way is to get it close with the grater, then use 80 on a small block, then DA sand to finish. I have a video coming up this Friday on that process believe it or not 😊
In areas without bondo or repairs should I just sand the existing clear then prime the whole bumper cover? Then paint the whole cover, then clear the whole cover?
@@andrewbrown1463 In areas that aren't repaired you can just scuff and paint using the red scuff pad - 3M 07447 Scotch-Brite
Question on the Ford Crown Victoria front bumper cover, what's the difference between the cover with an apron or without an apron?
What exactly is the apron and what does it look like?
I think the one without apron doesn't have the molding holes. Not sure though - the pictures look the same on Ebay and Amazon. Let me know if you find out - curious now :)
@@LakesideAutobody I'm just not sure exactly what they consider the apron. I suppose I could go to my local Ford dealer and ask the body shop.
I like you said the pictures I've looked at online there's no defined part called the apron that I can see.
@@308hit Or ask the parts counter at the dealership - they should know the diff :)
I want to do the bumper ends on my Jeep XJ. They’re just raw rough textured. Will these steps do the trick?
Absolutely - you won't be let down :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome! I’ll give it a whirl! Thank You 🙏
First rate job as always Jerry. Another excellent lesson!
Thanks Fireship - always good to hear from you my friend :)
What's the theory behind priming it after scuffing and adhesion promoter instead of going straight to the color coat?
Are you eliminating scratches from the scuffing since it's a metallic color?
At a place I worked we scuffed the bumper and painted and never had issues - used flex additive though. So if you don't problems with paint flaking off keep doing it the way you are used to. I'm sure it's done a bit differently from shop to shop. Epoxy primer sticks well to plastic, metal, aluminum, fiberglass, etc. and like you said helps fill any imperfections, sand scratches, etc. Have a great labor day weekend my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Have a great weekend as well. Thanks for the quick reply. BTW I tested Bulldog adhesion promoter on glass and paint just to see the longevity and adhesion over time. Straight paint on glass started flaking within a year. Bulldog and paint got tougher over about 30 days. You could still scrape it off with a finger nail over the 1st couple of weeks; after a month you couldn't scrape it off any longer. 3 years later now, and I can't scrape it off with a finger nail. There is zero flaking of the paint.
@@Randazler Did you etch the glass or sand blast it first? Interesting.... never really thought about painting glass. Thanks for your comment - I'm going to look into how to paint glass :)
@@LakesideAutobody no etching just bulldog and paint. I do art work and painted straight unprepped glass other than cleaning years ago. It all flaked so when i got into automotive I learned about bulldog...no more flaking. You can do bulldog and do the decorative epoxy over it also on glass. In fact you can mix autopaint in the epoxy...the kind you use for countertops. I did a 7 ft counter top with epoxy. auto paint and powder pearls mixed in a couple of years ago had no issues with it cracking or anything. It looks great.
The epoxy has an odor of course but it seems to encapsulate the paint smell so it doesn't smell too much like paint fumes. I did it in the living room with a low odor counter top epoxy without too much toxic smelling fumigation going on.
Hey Jerry. Great video, looks amazing. Just getting caught up on my You tube watching. Look FWD to the silver.
I have to catch up too my friend - been busy here lately :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yes. Always sooooo busy. Cuts in to You tube time lol
@@pstreetgarage7304 👍✌
🤓👌🖖👍✌😎
Hi Jerry. Love the project, adhesion promoter is a must, especially if not using flex agent. I've seen plastic bumpers spider really bad with minor bumps otherwise. Have a great holiday weekend my friend!!
You too Erich - always a pleasure hearing from you my friend. Hope you're everything is going well for you :)
Nice video I have personally just spray plastic coating 2 coats and then spray my base coat some people say spray 2k primer over the plastic addition promoter dose both method work jery ? Thank you for the video jery
If it works for you then it works 😊. Different shops do it different ways too. There's probably a ton of different ways that work :)
I painted a new bumper for a foxbody about 8 years ago, cleaned it, scuffed it, used nason ful base and 498 clear and it still looks brand new, except that my son hit a racoon at 70 mph, otherwise the paint is almost flawless ,but you rs being textured, yes, adhesion promoter is probably the safe route, love your videos and intros
Thanks Richard - glad you like the videos. Have a great weekend :)
Another Great Video... You'll Make a Pro Painter Out of Me Yet. Thanks for Sharing... Brother
You're welcome David - have a great week :)
Hi Jerry, Love the video. Is it cooling off up there in MI? Have a great weekend!
Yes it's cooling off - finally. I've been pouring sweat all summer. Thanks for watching and the support Danno74Z - hope you have a good weekend too :)
Great video nice job
Glad you enjoyed it Brad - have a good weekend :)
Why do you use such a small air compressor?
I had a small garage built just to do mechanical work on our cars and small projects - never expecting to do YT videos. I made the mistake of not putting in 220. This is really the largest one I can run or at least the most SCFM I can find right now 😊