Jeld-Wen Window Install Best Practice Method
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
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In this video my crew is installing Jeld-Wen W-2500 Wood Clad Casement Windows in a new home. We will show you the install methods, flashing, leveling, and discuss a few tips. Best, Matt Risinger
Risinger Homes in Austin Texas
www.risingerhomes.com
Risinger Homes is a custom builder and whole house remodeling contractor that specializes in Architect driven and fine craftsmanship work. We utilize an in-house carpentry staff and the latest building science research to build dramatically more efficient, healthy and durable homes.
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*So amazingly quiet and **Fastly.Cool** in my room! 42db is at a whisper level. I bought 2 and installed myself.Very sturdy bracket and easy to adjust to fit windows of different size. Absolutely fabulous units!!*
It's amazing how many different methods there are out there to install a window.
Some people say wrapping the house wrap into the window frame is dangerous, in case water gets behind the housewrap. Well if water is getting behind your housewrap, you've got some other, much more serious problem than a leaking window.
Great video! Can you develop a video showing your preferred method for Front Entry door installation, including your method of shimming (locations, etc)?
Thanks again!
Great videos. Best explanation of how a window is to be installed.
I’m putting in windows soon now. Great new window Compnay I know
Id like to see vid series on ext door installs, especially sill pan. Gary Katz has a good one, but curious about your methods
Good idea, I'll get that one going! Matt
@@buildshow Did you ever get that one going?
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Excellent treatise of evidence based practice on window wrap installation. I really enjoy your style of questioning and camera presence. Thorough and concise coverage of the subject. I know you are a proponent of utilizing materials that decreases the risk of human error during application. What are your thoughts on liquid flashing systems such as prosoco? A product which is continuous without joints seems to be next in evolution for water, vapor, and air barrier protection vs. house wrap technology. Excellent video as usual! Thanks again
I think highly of the Prosoco's R-Guard and Tyvek's fluid applied too. My concern is that both are labor intensive, and could hold up the progress of construction. Ultimately, it comes down to the exposure to water your wall will see. If you are coastal, or in a high wind hilltop, or have small or no overhangs; these are the projects that would have zero tolerance for failure and should consider fluid applied. I believe Tyvek Commercial D is a VERY good system for most of the houses I build. Best, Matt
Superb information every time, Matt! One question: When sealing from the inside with caulk and foam for complete air/water tightness, how do you also allow d
egress of potential leaking water through the window assembly itself, should the assembly become compromised in the future?
Look for an upcoming video on this topic, I'm filming it this afternoon! Thanks for your kind works, and for your support! Best, Matt
Narrator: In fact Matt did mean to interrupt.
Really like the builders slight slope to the wd sill plate, and quality of work and attention to detail for leveling the windows. I don't like the shingle nails for the window flanges because they will gradually loosen up & even pop just like many of them do on a roof. The difference being roofs are sloped and shingles are light. Windows are really heavy. Wind loads alone puts a tremendous force on a window, but seasonal climate conditions, also create slight movements and creaks in a building. So, big question mark on the shingle nails. What does the window mfr recommend?
The wide heads on a shingle nail actually make it easier for the nail to come out.
Great video Matt, I really appreciate your channel and I think you really do a great job.
A small detail bothers me, should not we seal the Tyvek on the jack stud. I do not see this detail in the video.
Appreciate the kind words! Just to clarify, we use Dupont Straightflash on the vertical jambs (over the nail flange) first, then do the head last. The bottom sill gets left alone so that water that might get into the window will have a pathway out. This window has a snap on exterior casing that may obscure the view of the jamb flashing???? Best, Matt
Hey matt, could you give your thoughts on jeld-wen aluminum, like the windows featuring in video here?
I’m not a fan. Had issues
Have been remodeling a 1930-1940 northern Michigan cabin with some additions from 1950s. I can tell you first hand how effective tar paper really is. It stands the test of time! Not really sure if this house wrap we use now is a actual improvement.
Me too..turn down house years old tar paper still intact
@@raphaelkoster6099 ahh its definitely longer lasting on the walls than it is on the roof, and you can see hows its degraded under the shingles which installed correctly dont leak. even a properly installed siding cladding will leak and has weep holes to drain moisture. so to say siding manufacturers know this happens.
and the felt is organic so it will absorb and transfer water slowly. also at penetrations (windows, doors) corners the high flow behind siding trims gets beat up and leaks very commonly.
unless its a painted mand caulked 100% sealed exterior. and even still moisture behind the wall cavity still exists. which dies get wept through but then on sealed siding cant breathe out and rots the back of panels.
Should you the number 10 inch and 5/8 stainless pan head screw
Hi Matt, I'm planning on building my own home this summer. I'm planning on having 2x6 walls with 3" of closed cell foam, OSB sheathing, with Tyvek house wrap plus 3/4" Dow Insulation board. How do you handle the window flashing in that type of scenario? I watched your video with the Drain Wrap behind the foam board and thought that was a great idea but I'm having trouble wrapping my mind around how to properly flash my windows. I was anticipating installing my windows flanges on top of the foam board but would it be better to put the foam board over the flange?
Jerry, Set your windows like this video then so your foam on top of all the Tyvek Drainwrap. Best, Matt
I used a Jamsil sill pan on my entrance door.
This helped me a lot. Thanks! I have been checking videos to help me with the replace of my parents windows. They are all aluminum and in terrible shape. We are going to vinyl. So on vinyls is the header nailed, or not? Everything I've read states No. Thanks again!
Bryan Blackwater I would nail the header. I don't see a reason not to nail the flange there.
OK ,Thanks. Appreciate the advice!
Header will shrink and pull on flange.
My header shrinks when it is cold outside
I'm replacing windows but since I have to completely rebuild my rough openings for two windows I bought new construction windows roughly the same size as the old windows. I'll have to cut the nailing fin off where the windows but up against brick face. I already installed a Jeld-Wen entrance door, now moving into two original windows that came with the house. All other windows have been replaced by previous owner.
I really like those windows, can you tell me what model and color they are?
Timothy Nenof: Easy: Jeld Wen Windows (and Doors). Charcoal grey - there probably is an online colour chart for a perfectly accurate colour designation.
"Sorry, Bill, didn't mean to interrupt..... Can I interrupt real quick?.... Sorry, Bill, didn't mean to interrupt" lol
Martin Vera he is a salesman shill more than anything...
That's what they call manners around here. You don't just horn in on someone without saying, "Sorry for cutting you off, but you left out important information and now I'm going to tell everyone what you should have added." Matt said that, but with manners.
Did this house get any exterior insulation afterward?
Matt - I have NOW 5 windows that have rotting trim-wood at the bottom sill. The house is only 5 years old and the first signs off rot started just a year after being built. Is this a bad wrapping job and/or window installation? Do you recommend changing out the windows and house-wrap at the same time? Like all kit-built homes in San Antonio, build quality was never there, and I find myself making more repairs/improvements, than enjoying my home. Any help is appreciated!
William, I'm so sorry to hear of your troubles. Most likely the issue is related to installation. The hardest part of your issue is that fixing it correctly may mean removing all your cladding. You might take apart one of the windows and 1' surrounding that window to see how the house was weatherized. If it's bad that's an indicator for the rest of the house. Windows under large overhangs may be OK but windows without protection could be in bad shape. I wish you the best in this terrible issue. Matt
William Hoffman i
How about a vid on how you calk & insulate around the window from the inside?
Funny you should mention... I've got one in the works! Best, Matt
what about the nail holes in the house wrap? thats another place for water to enter
"OK l, sorry Bill, didn't mean to interrupt."
(1:55), (3:50) 😄
are you still shimming out the window from the sill for water to flow out if it gets behind?
Yes, most of the time. I believe that the bottom flange of the window should be nailed a bit loosely to ensure water will migrate out and certainly it should be un-caulked. If you do that you'll not need the shims. Best, Matt
Matt,
Great video. Much better than a Jeld-Wen one I saw earlier on replacement windows.
The only thing I would have done differently is install a head flashing incorporated into the Tyvek.
So few understand the need for a sloped sill flashing and air sealing inside. Lstiburek should be required reading and watching for all builders and architects.
Thanks! Really straight forward! I can take it from here. :)
Why aren't you wrapping the building wrap in the sill, as Fine Homebuilding recommends?
because the peel and stick product their using does a better job waterproofing the sill than the housewrap would. peel and stick also flexible to make a perfect 90 deg turn at either side.
how many crew members and what is the output production per day for a crew of 3? Thanks - Ant
Matt can windows be flashed if windows are installed and there's no weather barrier installed
I'm not Matt but I sure would, then weather tape or caulk or both, the windows can never be sealed up too much in my opinion.
What about the jizz blast deflector shields?
Question,,. If you are allowing an escape for water on the bottom sill plate,,, doesn't that allow a serious air penetration at the same time or is it somehow sealed on the inside,,, wish he would elaborate more on this.
There are many different ways and it seems matt changed from time to time .
One method is to use backer rod and chalk the backside with air dam (or any high quality caulking )this creates back dam where water can't past and your window is air sealed
Are those painted vinyl
Ohh how much has changed since this video was published.
I do not turn the wrap into the window opening. After placing the window in the frame and nailing it in, they the seal tape goes around the window toughing the wrap on one side and over lapping the window on the other. JS
One thing that is rarely mentioned in these videos and is confusing to most people is relates to incidental water intrusion. residential widows ALWAYS leaked. The big difference between 2023 construction and my parents 1952 New Jersey “Cape” was that the framing lumber was mostly old growth. sheathing was diagonal solid 1x shiplap and the walls 3 1/2” studs with fiberglass cavity insulation. No air conditioning. Underlayment was 15lb felt.
If the envelope received a few tablespoons of intrusion water…or even a minor leak… it could DRY OUT without substantial damage to the wood. So much construction today is a) tight, and b) made with engineered sheathing like OSB that WILL rot.
Today’s rough timber framing is far less forgiving from a management of incidental water intrusion standpoint.
Do you still stand by the Jeld-Wen wood/aluminum windows? I hear their vinyl products suck. What about the wood?
This is not the DuPont approved method. The return up looks to be less than 6" on the sill wrap. The sides also need to be cut flush so the sill wrap sticks to the cripple studs.
LoL...didn't mean to interrupt Bill...and does it again in 1 min
I think Joe was talking about roof, not windows.
He's said it about both.
You guys have to do so much to seal your windows... Here in Australia we go nowhere near this extreme, never, if ever have leaking windows. They just should not leak, don't know what goes on in the states with manufacturing but somethings not up to scratch..!
The water protection looks great but No level putting a window in ? Is kind of a joke I understand why you used a laser that’s great
Sorry, Bill, didn't mean to interrupt...Sorry, Bill, didn't mean to interrupt...Sorry, Bill, didn't mean to interrupt...Sorry, Bill, didn't mean to interrupt...Sorry, Bill, didn't mean to interrupt...Sorry, Bill, didn't mean to interrupt...
which low quality replacement window is best out of:
1. Jeld Wen - builders series
2. Crestline - 250 series
3. Andersen - 50 series
4. Pella - 20 series
Thanks in advance!!!
The guy on the stepladder is risking his bones and doesn’t get any credit! Heard about platforms!?
You never see this on Cabin Masters LOL
ummm not good never wrap inside the plane of the window bigger problem the seam above the window
Do you tape the horizontal seams of Tyvek? I've read some people do not tape the horizontal seams because if water does get behind the Tyvek (or any other house wrap) you want that water to be able to drain. Dupont says the following:
"All vertical and horizontal seams shall be taped with approved tape.
Taping all vertical and horizontal seams is part of the requirement to obtain the DuPontTM Tyvek® Products Material and Labor Residential 10-year Limited Warranty."
As a side note, a 10 year warranty for house wrap does not inspire confidence when you want a house to last for at least 50 - 100 years.
If you tape the OSB Seams with Siga Wigluv then taping the Horizontal laps isn't as important. I would tape them regardless. Best, Matt
something being missed here is air. for this question regarding the tape air sealing is achieved by taping horizontal as well as vertical not just for water entry.
same for the cap staples. let alone no chance of a leak at the fastener possible being overdriven etc, and better hold from wind, it again provides better air sealing benefits.
and water shouldnt be getting behind tyvek. thats the point of siding taking the burnt of weather and tyvek draining the remainder away.
that air getting in is slowly ruining the insulation.
it also says on manufacturer site for i believe dupont that cap staples/nails must be used or voids warranty.
In this video you missed a lot in the windows. Why??????????
Matt, I know this video is old, but I have a question. At 4:50 you show a picture of the interior of the home looking at the window instal, I noticed the sheathing, what is the plywood under the OSB? Is that pressure treated? Or is that just CDX for structural reasons?
Matt likes to run a 2ft tall course of pressure treated plywood first, then run conventional sheathing on top. He advises it reduces the chances of swelling and damage from moisture. Now he does a lot of Zip system though.....
I don't agree with this "all windows will leak" conclusion. My house, built in 1912 and remodeled with the original windows but new siding and wrapping the exterior trim in aluminum, has never had a single window leak. Plus, while I do agree with leaving the bottom open on a philosophical basis, on a practical basis it is very questionable whether there is any effect to closing it or leaving it open.
What does your window manufacture recommend? Bottom open or sealed up?
they all honestly will. its more about what underlay the used on the original siding. and around windows/doors those 90 degree corners arent possible to flash properly with felt paper which is most common used before newer housewraps.
not so much the windows, more the siding and underlay at the windows joints. Ive had many calls where it starts as a small issue somehwere on the exterior sheathing usually someone building a deck and finding rot. then opening it up and all bottom window corners just peeled apart.
It's not best practice to install a window over top of the Tyvek. How would you stop water that penetrates behind the Tyvek from getting into the house at the window opening? Please see UA-cam video entitled "Properly Flashing Windows"
Zig Zag
Zig Zag
There's caulk at the top of the window between the flange and OSB, and then StraightFlash. All that is under the Tyvek.
yeah why they do that this is confusing.. watch THISisCarpentry video the other way of doing it.
Best one I have seen, I like the "Fully adhered system" myself
Don't forget the BackrTape, ua-cam.com/video/YXK3jJgaxSw/v-deo.html
I think the biggest issue I see within the USA's building codes, is there are to many variances from state to state... In Australia we have very few differences within the building codes state for state..! Keeps things much simpler, and easier to control..!
Fire your editor
Less talk more action
OK, why don't you keep your videos consistent with one another?? What happen to your horseshoe shims that you so strongly recommend? I think your just getting hung up on promoting products that perhaps sponsor some of your videos. I realize that building science is constantly evolving, but you are bouncing all over the place when it comes to window installation. I truly appreciate what your doing, but BE CONSISTANT!!!! All I see is that your promoting one product over another from one video to the next!!!!! ENOUGH OF THE LASER CRAP !!!!! No ONE uses a LASER to set windows!!! WHAT ARE YOU USING FOR SIDING ON THIS INSTALL? WHAT ABOUT TRIM? ALL TRIM ROTS OUT ALSO!! BILL STICK TO FRAMING!!! Your not a window installer!! Leave that to the PROFESSIONALS
Dan Moberly Thank you,, He is az saleman first..
Dan Moberly.......I am going to have to agree with you. I just finished Matt's video promoting horseshoe shims. This is a 4+ year later video. Perhaps technology has changed since then. ( I'm trying to stay positive ). I don't necessarily agree with you in segregating " professionals ". ANY GOOD contractor should be armed with framing, window installation, basic wiring and plumbing knowledge etc. and experience to where he or she can spot under-performing subcontractor work and correct it in time before it needs to be demo'ed and redone properly. I've seen lots of crap pass inspection. And without having a better solution, I personally don't care for all this adhesive applied sealing products. Surfaces need to be clean and foreign particle free and even then sticky tape, glue, silicone sooner than later lets go even if the weather permits optimum application conditions. How long is that "seal pan protection" going to hold? 50 years? I don't think so. And how much might that house cost? 500K maybe 800K? Are we moving backwards? I digress.
While some of the products have changed the principles have not. Here in Utah as a framer we set the windows. Yes we use lasers. If we don’t the homeowners are after the fact and making us fix things. Do it right the first time and do it well.
this video is 4 years old, the guy doesnt even use Tyvek on his builds anymore. He now uses the ZIP and ZIP R sheathing. You also seeing him go around and show what his other builder friends are using.
You're zoomed out too far, zoom in a bit so we can see what you're talking about
Stop interrupting lol
Why talk about everything other than the window!
Interesting this is now the WRONG way to install windows.
Horrible instructions just standing and talking all scripted
These windows are of poor quality.
You talk too much
simple solution... turn off UA-cam
BS builder...