That would be amazing. Complete with vice, T-slotted table etc... Would be a treat to watch. Tapered tools on a rack to the side... I reckon we have to admit those girly doll houses ain't got nothing on this workshop we talking about.
Not to mention again , that you're a true pro toolmaker, but, I'm always intrigued and enlightened by your work holding techniques. To me, as a novice, hobby machinist, your workholding techniques always are the key to the puzzle in my mind. Thanks again for your teaching. Sincerely, Scott
OH, how I love the color of polished metals. Especially brass. A reminder on file treatments is that "Burr Life" from "Rio Grande" supplies. I have never used anything else like it that works so well on files and burrs. Since discovering it I have never had a tooth on a file pile up and damage a finish. I really like your changeups. They make a show and tell piece into a workable machine with a few more bells and whistle's. That brass drive shive is gorgeous. Brass sure hit's ne where it counts my friend. Onwards and upwards and a big, big thanks for todays bling. See you never soon enough Joe, !
Great video as always, I caught the “ sanity check” when you grabbed the digital calipers to verify the micrometer reading, I do the same thing, when in doubt check, double check! Saves parts.
Another excellent video, I like the look of the brass pulley wheel, the holes give it an old fashioned style look. Thanks Joe. You must be extreemly proud of the quality you are achieving I believe any museum would be proud to own such quality.
Another enjoyable “build” video Joe. Just as aside, I’ve constructed a number of Craftsman styled clocks over the years, comprised of many copper / brass pieces - if you would like to maintain the brightness and flaw free surface finish of your machined surfaces, I can highly recommend 2105 Nikolas lacquer… it is “water clear”, sprays wet, dries quickly, and is quite effective for years after application. Used primarily for coating brass musical instruments, and you know how much handling they get.
Awesome video as usual, Joe. I would love to see a video on your technique for grinding custom form tools. My handful of attempts haven't been as effective as I'd like and I would be very interested in seeing how a man of your experience does it.
Thanks for adding the details such as lubes and feeds & speeds. For a total noob like me, that info is really helpful. My new task is cracking the lube/coolant code. I can't make out any rhyme or reason as to when or why to use lube and when to turn dry.
@@spehropefhany They got the job done, in many cases you don't need the absolutely best tool precisely tuned for a given task, whatever is handy for the momentary need works perfectly well.
@@avi8r66 I know, better than nothing- but those drug store things are so stiff and short I cringe whenever I see them, having been forced to compromise more than a few times.
@@spehropefhany And yet, they accomplished their task quite nicely. If you do this kind of very fine small scale work on a very frequent basis it would matter, but for the rare occasion they are fine.
Thank you Joe, best way to start a Saturday morning. A nice country breakfast of ham, eggs and hash browns and a fresh cup of coffee all while watching another great video from you. Don't get much better.... : )
I have all of these kits from PM Research, but I have not started to build them yet. Seeing how you are doing them is very helpful and I am enjoying your video series very much. Thank You.
Hi Joe, The machining looks flawless. I like your attention to detail. When you were attempting those last two screws was thinking 'When's Joe going to use some tweezers', and just needed to wait a few more seconds. Looking forward to those upper parts to be machined. You and the family stay safe.
Looking good Joe! Believe it or not, in my first machine shop job, all the machines had flat belt drive belts. A line shaft still ran across the ceiling. All the machines had electric motors adapted to them. I actually ran a drill press just like the one you are building, back in 1975.
My dad had a flat belt driven lathe in our garage in 1960-70s. The motor was mounted on the wall above the lathe. Between the two was a pivoted wooden lever with prongs either side of the belt. This allowed you to push the belt off the driven pulley onto an idler pulley stopping the lathe but leaving the motor running. To restart the lathe you moved the belt back onto the driven pulley. I can only assume they did this (instead of switching the motor on and off) to reduce start up surges?
I restored an 1890’s era Sibley and Ware drill press, took 1.5 years. Mesmerizing machine to look at and fun ever to run. The sounds it makes is awesome.
Great end to a busy week. Your work on that lathe is my ASMR zen relaxing thing with these miniatures. Thank you for them. Hope you and the family keeping well, Joe.
"Fourteen minutes, real time." You crack me up as always Joe. Reality is that it's 14 minutes Joe Pi time, you really should state the conversion factor to real time, 3.141 something or other I believe.
Absolutely beautiful…… I’m really enjoying these miniature tool series as it provides so many real world examples of fixture holding and machining methods without dealing with customer proprietary issues. Thanks Joe so very much for investing the time to share with us. 👍👍😎👍👍
I think the first drill press I owned was about this vintage but it had been retrofitted with a top mounted motor and a "Robley Speed Variator". Nice work as always.
Technically, and I'm not trying to be overly pedantic here, but most turned parts that are round were machined with nothing more than friction holding the part - either in jaws or via friction turning like he does here 👍🏻 There's even an entire category of friction turning where they form metal into things like pots and pans 🤓
@@THE_PeglegSwantoon lol, yeah I guess that’s true. I meant more sandwiched between two surfaces, as opposed to gripped, but then I remembered turning between centers. 🤦♂️ But with centers you got the points preventing the part from being pushed out sideways. And I’ve seen some metal spinning. Very cool
Another great video today Joe! I wish my hands were as steady as yours although I still get it done. The project is coming along nicely thank you for taking time and effort to share your work with us!
Hi Joe, I have a challenge for you: It is to, on a manual lathe, make a hole on a large plate... but the hole wall is a toroidal/convex shape instead of being a smooth cylinder. No form tools or step machining via DRO allowed.
and for joe's next build a belt sander in a bottle !!!! lol j/k sweet. i do have one question though. that shiny brass looks nice. are you sealing it or doing something else to prohibit tarnishing or as the stuffy upper class say "petina"
My real name is Michael McCluskey. I like to design and make things myself. One thing I like about UA-cam is there are people who I can learn from them, You are one of them!
Took a while to get used to retirement... you're too young yet Joe - but you must remember that in retirement you must stay active. And; you'll never get as much done in a day that you did while you were working full time!! As strange as it may seem... But remember most of all in retirement: YOU CAN NEVER TAKE ANOTHER DAY OFF! Yes, well and happy!
Shouldn’t the shortened side of the pillar be towards the cone pulleys, since that side length was increased with the delrin? The bearing post just doesn’t look centered on the base casting
Those tiny screws would drive me crazy... I'd be chasing them around the workbench until they fell on the floor and bounced underneath the desk directly center out of reach or retrievability from any angle... The tweezers/needle nose pliers seem like the right solution to control them where you need to put them... I occasionally need to assemble small electronic projects with tiny components so I've been there myself with those small awkward screws. Great build so far, I look forward to seeing the rest of the drill press project.
@@mpetersen6 Wow... that's good to know... I've got to get me a set of those... I'm tired of getting screwed by screws. Do you have something that you use and could recommend a brand or where can I get them? Thanks in advance!
Looks awesome Joe, what do you think about making some square headed screws for the base ? Not sure if square or hex fits the time period, 🤔 but either would look cool.
You’ve commented before about the scale of the screws throwing off the look, which I agree. Looking at this piece today had me wondering if a small counterbore for the screws would ease the scale issue by reducing how much they stick out? Just a thought. I’m learning so much from your channel, Thank You.
Lovely to see you making such tiny parts on your fairly big lathe. I have an older Colchester Triumph roundhead and she is still very accurate. I have a Jacobs rubberflex collet chuck but yours is better.
Just awesome,,,Joe @ 3:59,,the belt on the vertical sander,,,do you splice your own?? Is there a tip you can share?? I have all those 50yr rolls of Emery, and going to build a narrow belt sander and be great if I could use the emery I have in stock,, Bear.
Again.(10:25)It´s a HSS form tool with the 500 radius CARBIT? to the front of the FINEEYE? laid out with the radius gauge and grounded.Rhight I need to check that again.Thank you.
Your work always impresses Joe, is there a horizontal mill project coming in the future? The first machine shop I worked in I was still in HS senior year 84 and it was a gear shop, I can still smell all the older cutting oils they used, anyway I had the "pleasure" of running a Fellows gear shaper that was built in 1903 if I remember correctly and a couple of WWII era Gleason bevel gear cutters along with horizontal hobs and a turret lathe that was built in the late 20's(oops 1920's for the youngins) it was a good learning experience and I was making way better money than most kids, but I eventually moved on to toolmaking, too much repetition in production for me. It would be cool if those older styles of machines were available to build for the nostalgia of it.
Joe, when the reamer first entered the cone pulley, you appeared to steady or otherwise touch (guide?) the reamer. Why did you do that? Curious (& old, but still learning!) minds want to learn for uses in their own shops.
Has to use tweezers, lol. I used to make fun of my dad and others for having to use them, my fingers are magic! Now, many years later, I'm struggling to hit the correct letters to type these words. Must be time for stronger reading glasses too. Another great video, thanks Joe.
No, because it will connect to a belt on a line shaft, so alignment is done by positioning the drill press on the floor and the pulley on the line shaft.
It sounds wrong, but a normal twist drill does't necessarily drill a round hole, often they are slightly triangular. It depends how well and how accurately they are ground. A reamer is designed to form an accuratly sized and round hole. A guide is drill 1/64" or 0.4mm smaller with a twist drill then ream.
i dont use imperial so i can't tell you how their reaming system works, but in metric a drill will often drill 0.1mm larger than its nominal size (especially if you dont pilot drill) and reaming a hole with something standard like H7 would give you a tolerance of 0.015mm on a 10mm hole, so it is a lot more accurate, which is important to get the kind of fit you want.
This is partially true. The scotch brite wheels I use have multiple grades of the same color. Red can be very fine to coarse, and blue is usually just coarse. Pads may be different than wheels, but thats my experience. 3M being the brand I use.
you should invest in a nice pair of offset tweezers. then a bit of work on the sander to make them fit your hand and the way you hold them. Well done as always
Is there a set screw to lock the cone pulley to the shaft? Nice work, and the brass pulluy notn only looks good, it will be a better flywheel for when you put this tool to work! Thanks.
i realise you're using a collet so maybe it's not as big of a deal, and maybe the parts don't need to be within .0001" tolerance but.. i'm pretty sure i was told removing a chucked part to measure it is bad practise because it has the potential to add errors?
One could only wish modern equipment would be assembled with as much care as you are demonstrating here. 🙂
These miniature machines will make brilliant desk ornaments. Next please do a mini milling machine
That would be amazing. Complete with vice, T-slotted table etc... Would be a treat to watch. Tapered tools on a rack to the side... I reckon we have to admit those girly doll houses ain't got nothing on this workshop we talking about.
You are going to have to build a model sized shop with a line array for powering these off the steam engine.
Not to mention again , that you're a true pro toolmaker, but, I'm always intrigued and enlightened by your work holding techniques. To me, as a novice, hobby machinist, your workholding techniques always are the key to the puzzle in my mind. Thanks again for your teaching.
Sincerely,
Scott
Agreed!
Thanks guys. I try to show techniques you can improve on and use elsewhere. Making something is just a bonus.
OH, how I love the color of polished metals. Especially brass. A reminder on file treatments is that "Burr Life" from "Rio Grande" supplies. I have never used anything else like it that works so well on files and burrs. Since discovering it I have never had a tooth on a file pile up and damage a finish. I really like your changeups. They make a show and tell piece into a workable machine with a few more bells and whistle's. That brass drive shive is gorgeous. Brass sure hit's ne where it counts my friend. Onwards and upwards and a big, big thanks for todays bling. See you never soon enough Joe, !
Great video as always, I caught the “ sanity check” when you grabbed the digital calipers to verify the micrometer reading, I do the same thing, when in doubt check, double check! Saves parts.
Agree!
Another excellent video, I like the look of the brass pulley wheel, the holes give it an old fashioned style look. Thanks Joe.
You must be extreemly proud of the quality you are achieving I believe any museum would be proud to own such quality.
Another enjoyable “build” video Joe.
Just as aside, I’ve constructed a number of Craftsman styled clocks over the years, comprised of many copper / brass pieces - if you would like to maintain the brightness and flaw free surface finish of your machined surfaces, I can highly recommend 2105 Nikolas lacquer… it is “water clear”, sprays wet, dries quickly, and is quite effective for years after application. Used primarily for coating brass musical instruments, and you know how much handling they get.
These little machine tools look like jewels, a reflection of your thoroughness and skills.
Can't wait to see all the rest, Joe.
Nice to see a partial assembly this early on to see how it's progressing👍👍
Oh boy! Masterpieces after masterpieces. You are so important in the evolution of life. Great times ahead.
I'm glad you see the value in these videos. Its not all about the model.
Awesome video as usual, Joe. I would love to see a video on your technique for grinding custom form tools. My handful of attempts haven't been as effective as I'd like and I would be very interested in seeing how a man of your experience does it.
Thanks for adding the details such as lubes and feeds & speeds. For a total noob like me, that info is really helpful.
My new task is cracking the lube/coolant code. I can't make out any rhyme or reason as to when or why to use lube and when to turn dry.
Watching those last two screws I kept thinking tweezers would be helpful, and bam, out came the tweezers. Looks great Joe.
Looks great for sure, but a good set of electronics grade tweezers would be much easier than those hair ones.
@@spehropefhany They got the job done, in many cases you don't need the absolutely best tool precisely tuned for a given task, whatever is handy for the momentary need works perfectly well.
@@avi8r66 I know, better than nothing- but those drug store things are so stiff and short I cringe whenever I see them, having been forced to compromise more than a few times.
@@spehropefhany And yet, they accomplished their task quite nicely. If you do this kind of very fine small scale work on a very frequent basis it would matter, but for the rare occasion they are fine.
Thank you Joe, best way to start a Saturday morning. A nice country breakfast of ham, eggs and hash browns and a fresh cup of coffee all while watching another great video from you. Don't get much better.... : )
I have all of these kits from PM Research, but I have not started to build them yet. Seeing how you are doing them is very helpful and I am enjoying your video series very much. Thank You.
Hi Joe,
The machining looks flawless. I like your attention to detail. When you were attempting those last two screws was thinking 'When's Joe going to use some tweezers', and just needed to wait a few more seconds. Looking forward to those upper parts to be machined. You and the family stay safe.
Hey Joe thank you sir!!
Your having a blast doing these micro machines. Awesome job.
Wow! The fit and finish is First Class! Thanks, Joe.
Looking good Joe! Believe it or not, in my first machine shop job, all the machines had flat belt drive belts. A line shaft still ran across the ceiling. All the machines had electric motors adapted to them. I actually ran a drill press just like the one you are building, back in 1975.
My dad had a flat belt driven lathe in our garage in 1960-70s. The motor was mounted on the wall above the lathe. Between the two was a pivoted wooden lever with prongs either side of the belt. This allowed you to push the belt off the driven pulley onto an idler pulley stopping the lathe but leaving the motor running. To restart the lathe you moved the belt back onto the driven pulley. I can only assume they did this (instead of switching the motor on and off) to reduce start up surges?
I'm enjoying this series. Thank you.
I restored an 1890’s era Sibley and Ware drill press, took 1.5 years. Mesmerizing machine to look at and fun ever to run. The sounds it makes is awesome.
Learned a few more tricks today.
Thanks Joe
I really enjoy your videos Joe, Your fun becomes mine. Greatly appreciated. Stay safe and be happy. All the best, Job
Great video JP! Can hardly wait to see the completed “shop”
Thanks for allowing us to look over your sholder,good tips.🤗😎🤗😎
I enjoy the attention to detail. Looks great.
That is coming along very nicely i do like the changes that you have made to this drill.
Enjoying the build. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Great end to a busy week. Your work on that lathe is my ASMR zen relaxing thing with these miniatures. Thank you for them. Hope you and the family keeping well, Joe.
It is always a pleasure to watch you do "a little work". Thanks for the video.
"Fourteen minutes, real time." You crack me up as always Joe. Reality is that it's 14 minutes Joe Pi time, you really should state the conversion factor to real time, 3.141 something or other I believe.
Absolutely beautiful…… I’m really enjoying these miniature tool series as it provides so many real world examples of fixture holding and machining methods without dealing with customer proprietary issues. Thanks Joe so very much for investing the time to share with us. 👍👍😎👍👍
Glad to do it.
Excellent tip to put the washers in the between the rotating parts. It's looking great.
Great job 👏 I like the idea of waiting till the end for assembly but nice surprise thanks
Beautiful absolutely beautiful...
I think the first drill press I owned was about this vintage but it had been retrofitted with a top mounted motor and a "Robley Speed Variator". Nice work as always.
Thanks Mark.
Beautiful work!
Thank you Joe you make it look so easy
Thanks for the video Joe.
Thank you again for the video series I hope you had as much fun building it as I have watching you build it
It's coming along nicely. Thanks for the video Joe.
I’m not a machinist, so maybe this was obvious to everyone else, but I had no idea you could turn a part that’s just held by friction. Neat!
Technically, and I'm not trying to be overly pedantic here, but most turned parts that are round were machined with nothing more than friction holding the part - either in jaws or via friction turning like he does here 👍🏻 There's even an entire category of friction turning where they form metal into things like pots and pans 🤓
@@THE_PeglegSwantoon lol, yeah I guess that’s true. I meant more sandwiched between two surfaces, as opposed to gripped, but then I remembered turning between centers. 🤦♂️
But with centers you got the points preventing the part from being pushed out sideways. And I’ve seen some metal spinning. Very cool
Love the mini tool series.
Another great video today Joe! I wish my hands were as steady as yours although I still get it done. The project is coming along nicely thank you for taking time and effort to share your work with us!
Thanks Joe - progressing nicely.
Looking fantastic Joe, cheers
Great job Joe, you are an artist with machine tools!
Hi Joe, I have a challenge for you: It is to, on a manual lathe, make a hole on a large plate... but the hole wall is a toroidal/convex shape instead of being a smooth cylinder. No form tools or step machining via DRO allowed.
Engaging as always. Thanks Joe!
very best video joe..thanks for your time
Thanks Joe
and for joe's next build a belt sander in a bottle !!!! lol j/k sweet. i do have one question though. that shiny brass looks nice. are you sealing it or doing something else to prohibit tarnishing or as the stuffy upper class say "petina"
My real name is Michael McCluskey. I like to design and make things myself. One thing I like about UA-cam is there are people who I can learn from them, You are one of them!
Well and happy Joe Pie, thanks!
Took a while to get used to retirement... you're too young yet Joe - but you must remember that in retirement you must stay active. And; you'll never get as much done in a day that you did while you were working full time!! As strange as it may seem... But remember most of all in retirement: YOU CAN NEVER TAKE ANOTHER DAY OFF! Yes, well and happy!
That is looking very very good there Joe.
Fantastic work, once again, thank you
Always entertaining and educational. Can't wait for more
Tiny work .... Great video .. thanks for sharing .. Stay Safe
Always learn something
Very nicely done !
Enjoy your work.
Shouldn’t the shortened side of the pillar be towards the cone pulleys, since that side length was increased with the delrin? The bearing post just doesn’t look centered on the base casting
Nice work, Joe!
Wishing I had a tenth of your skill sir. Very well done.
Excellent video.Thank you.
Those tiny screws would drive me crazy... I'd be chasing them around the workbench until they fell on the floor and bounced underneath the desk directly center out of reach or retrievability from any angle... The tweezers/needle nose pliers seem like the right solution to control them where you need to put them... I occasionally need to assemble small electronic projects with tiny components so I've been there myself with those small awkward screws. Great build so far, I look forward to seeing the rest of the drill press project.
They also make small instrument screw drivers that have holding arrangements in the tips. And I know all about having sausages for fingers
@@mpetersen6 Wow... that's good to know... I've got to get me a set of those... I'm tired of getting screwed by screws. Do you have something that you use and could recommend a brand or where can I get them? Thanks in advance!
Looks awesome Joe, what do you think about making some square headed screws for the base ? Not sure if square or hex fits the time period, 🤔 but either would look cool.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice one Joe. You certainly stepped up a few gears making this one. 😉
Details, always details.
As always great work and effort. Even simple things need a fair amount of thought got get them right.
Poetry in motion.
You’ve commented before about the scale of the screws throwing off the look, which I agree. Looking at this piece today had me wondering if a small counterbore for the screws would ease the scale issue by reducing how much they stick out? Just a thought. I’m learning so much from your channel, Thank You.
Wait! You didn’t make tiny press fit oilite bushings for that pulley shaft to run in. What’s up with that Joe?
Lovely to see you making such tiny parts on your fairly big lathe. I have an older Colchester Triumph roundhead and she is still very accurate. I have a Jacobs rubberflex collet chuck but yours is better.
I wish it was as easy as you make it look, by the time I was finished with that pulley I would have thrown it away and started over. LOL 😆
That's lookin soo cute Joe! TFS, GB :)
thank you for adding speeds and feeds info. Often wonder if I have them in the "ball park".
I see you have become a professional on video effects, too. Nice blending out the tiny screw.
Luv it . Nuff said
“Edward ScissorHands”….no match to “JoePie TweezerFingers”….😍enjoyed!
Just awesome,,,Joe @ 3:59,,the belt on the vertical sander,,,do you splice your own?? Is there a tip you can share?? I have all those 50yr rolls of Emery, and going to build a narrow belt sander and be great if I could use the emery I have in stock,, Bear.
Do you have a belt lacer for that size?
Heh, heh.
The real trick will be finding those #000000000 size laces. Teeny tiny little goats?
Probably have to make one!
@@wrstew1272 or raid the stash of office supplies and use the stapler
Again.(10:25)It´s a HSS form tool with the 500 radius CARBIT? to the front of the FINEEYE? laid out with the radius gauge and grounded.Rhight I need to check that again.Thank you.
I was wondering how you would setup the belt thing. Making very light cuts to make a nice radius is nice
Your work always impresses Joe, is there a horizontal mill project coming in the future? The first machine shop I worked in I was still in HS senior year 84 and it was a gear shop, I can still smell all the older cutting oils they used, anyway I had the "pleasure" of running a Fellows gear shaper that was built in 1903 if I remember correctly and a couple of WWII era Gleason bevel gear cutters along with horizontal hobs and a turret lathe that was built in the late 20's(oops 1920's for the youngins) it was a good learning experience and I was making way better money than most kids, but I eventually moved on to toolmaking, too much repetition in production for me. It would be cool if those older styles of machines were available to build for the nostalgia of it.
Joe, when the reamer first entered the cone pulley, you appeared to steady or otherwise touch (guide?) the reamer. Why did you do that? Curious (& old, but still learning!) minds want to learn for uses in their own shops.
Has to use tweezers, lol. I used to make fun of my dad and others for having to use them, my fingers are magic! Now, many years later, I'm struggling to hit the correct letters to type these words. Must be time for stronger reading glasses too. Another great video, thanks Joe.
I'm just wondering, does it not matter that the large brass pulley sits further back now due to the larger hub?
No, because it will connect to a belt on a line shaft, so alignment is done by positioning the drill press on the floor and the pulley on the line shaft.
I'm a newbie so this may be a stupid question. Why drill and then ream? Why not just drill or does the ream add to the finish?
Reaming provides an accurately sized hole all the way through the part, and a superior finish compared to a drill.
@@jerseyjoe2684 thanks Pal
It sounds wrong, but a normal twist drill does't necessarily drill a round hole, often they are slightly triangular. It depends how well and how accurately they are ground. A reamer is designed to form an accuratly sized and round hole. A guide is drill 1/64" or 0.4mm smaller with a twist drill then ream.
i dont use imperial so i can't tell you how their reaming system works, but in metric a drill will often drill 0.1mm larger than its nominal size (especially if you dont pilot drill) and reaming a hole with something standard like H7 would give you a tolerance of 0.015mm on a 10mm hole, so it is a lot more accurate, which is important to get the kind of fit you want.
@@brightmodelengineering8399 thanks pal. I did not know that. Now i do. Will put it in my book of notes. Thanks again
We see you working with Scotchbrite to polish.. I think gray is the softest, then green and red.. Is this true or am I mistaken?
I have also white, which is less abrasive then my grey one.
This is partially true. The scotch brite wheels I use have multiple grades of the same color. Red can be very fine to coarse, and blue is usually just coarse. Pads may be different than wheels, but thats my experience. 3M being the brand I use.
@@joepie221 I'm talking about the pads, I also use 3M. Great stuff!
you should invest in a nice pair of offset tweezers. then a bit of work on the sander to make them fit your hand and the way you hold them. Well done as always
Is there a set screw to lock the cone pulley to the shaft? Nice work, and the brass pulluy notn only looks good, it will be a better flywheel for when you put this tool to work! Thanks.
Fixtures rule! :thumbs_up:
Perfection. 👌 What else is there to say 🤔 👏👏👍😀
i realise you're using a collet so maybe it's not as big of a deal, and maybe the parts don't need to be within .0001" tolerance but.. i'm pretty sure i was told removing a chucked part to measure it is bad practise because it has the potential to add errors?
Anytime a part is moved the potential for an error between features is increased. You have to judge the part as you make it.
They should have specified socket head cap screws,they would look more realistic than "giant" slotted screws.
Maybe scale square-head screws?
I'm actually surprised they us a brass column instead of steel or cast iron. Looks great!