It nearly seems that when we give you a compliment it is somehow cheapened compared to just how much skill and knowledge you share with us. Of course it’s a great video because you did it. I kind of feel that anything you post is going to be so well done that it just goes without saying. I will instead say thank you so much for taking the time to help all of us out by posting these wonderful projects and tips that help us learn. Just wish you taught classes that we could attend. Keep up the cause Joe. We are blessed.
I'm enjoying this series. I think I learned more from watching you work the pulleys as you have them rather than you taking the easy route and making them out of bar stock. Thanks for sharing, it's good stuff.
When I went to tech school back in 1970, before I went off to play GI, they figured that that tooth was something that helped tool life. Probably because of the low grade tool bits that were available. Aluminum wasn't included in that. I have also discovered that super gluing a piece of emery cloth to the drive spud helps a lot in that pressing type operation. It doesn't need to be really coarse. Great series, by the way.
I KNEW that was going to happen LOL. No way Joe leaves something that he has to explain! It's like I always told my staff - expense reports are to be read...not listened to! And I can tell that Joe is a great showman...not an explainer!
Hi Joe, I am only half way through but I thought that I would mention a couple of things for your audience; I use very old 3.5" centre lathes, what you would call 7" swing, with flat belt drives. At this size the crown on the pulleys is unnecessary as the steps keep the belt in place. Your model's prototype will be a big industrial lathe with long belts coming, probably, from a high ceiling so belt tracking will be more of an issue. Also, you run an industrial workshop producing large amounts of work efficiently and economically so you will grind your tools accordingly. I use HSS tooling and grind my own using experimentation for the best finishes on occasional single parts. I have found that up to 15 degrees top rake gives excellent results. The point here for hobby machinists is get to know your machine and don't be afraid to experiment. I don't know much but like to share what little I do. I have now seen the rest...superb again Joe, thank you very much
Joe, great technique around 24:00 - 25:00 plunging the 45 into the driving brass first, and then coming back into the part. Made me smile! Thoroughly enjoying this build!
Aluminium is a pain to grind as well as it just acts like sticky clay. Candle wax works great for grinding with flap discs and it will cut twice as fast and oily coolant works great for turning and drilling. I don't have any chalk so haven't tried that yet but think they use it when filing.
I’m by no means a machinist but I love watching this type of content! Awesome to see people who know what they are doing and explains things in the process! Keep up the great work!
You are the man absolutely assume work, I only dream of doing work like you do and you make it look so easy! Thank you for taking the time to make these wonderful videos that I really enjoy watching.
Piece of barstock would definitely be the way to go. However, the intricacies of problem-solving via workholding is one of my favorite parts about this trade. Nice work as always Joe.😎😎
I know this is coming.......a video of this lathe in use making a part for another project....... If not, you at.least gave it some thought. Enjoying this series greatly Thanks for the entertainment and lessons.
Joe, the bull gear locking pin used in the Southbends and others is a later development. I have a 1868 patent Putnam 18X60" that uses a square headed bolt in a radial slot. Loosen the nut and move it in the slot to tie the spindle/bull gear to the slot for the bolt head in the step pulley. It does work but not as nice as a 9" Southbend pin! Interesting side note; the 1868 Putnam cross feed used a 3/4X6 Acme thread with NO micrometer dial. But how would you make a dial with 166.666 divisions? I guess you worked it with calipers or used the compound if you wanted to turn to a dimension. The compound was made with a 10 pitch screw and 100 division dial. Both the cross feed nut and screw were worn out so when I rebuilt the lathe I made a 3/4X5 screw, nut and 200 division dial to modernize and make the lathe more usable.
I must admit joe, I would have taken the easy option and made one from round bar, but It’s good to see you using the supplied casting and a nice job you did too.
Joe, I spent my industrial career working on Euro equipment, all metric. Whenever there was a high tolerance fit, like a pin in a hole the print would call out the nominal size, say 100 mm. Then the call out on the hole would be say, 100 +.02/+.04 mm and the pin callout would be, 100 -.02/-.04. So the minimum tolerance would be .04 and the max tolerance would be .08. This eliminates that tolerance issue.
Nice to see that even experts run into the things that make us pull our hair out! Realistically, how can PMR put out instructions that they have to know are flawed in this area? Surely they have received phone calls about this problem. Great recovery there btw! These things seem to crop up on every project in one way or another. Watching guys like you overcome those issues is a true learning experience! Thanks again Joe!
You got me ,lol. I made the 4 jaw chuck yesterday first one after I got it turned , I forgot to get the collet block collar tight in the mill , Dhooo. Second one I bumped the vice out of square on the mill , took an hour getting it right and aligned to the part and reset the DRO. I did not make drawings . Kinda seat of my pants from the tee cutter size I have. Made the Jaws in bras , thought it looked cool. Came out quite nice . Chuck body is 1042 stress proof steal , slooow going ! Got er done ! Just need to put the features on the Jaws. Thank you !
Its funny how changes in diameter are announced by the reflections. The crowning of the cone pulleys was perfect. Like you initially saying " why bother" with the crown I was agreeing with you, but after the polish it totally made the piece. Btw, nice finish work on all the rest of the assembly. Nothing gives away a miniature's scale like burs and tool marks. Nice.
I have access to a 3 speed 25 in lathe dating back into the 50's that still has its original hand laced belt. 8 in from chuck center to the bed rail clearance. I have made some incredibly large pieces on it over the last 42 years with my old business partner. We are both retired now and lovin it. I have yet to have a need to pressure turn but know when the time comes I won't be in the dark. Stock or a Gr 8 bolt would be my choice, LOL. Sweet seeing the crowns come to fruit. Very nice indeed. Sure pays to spend a lot of time as needed when working with prints looking for little glitches like what you encountered here eh. Well my friend one more tick on the parts list done eh !
Excellent video. I guess you are at least one of the first to make this model so are catching all the little issues with it. If you have the time, I think on the full size lathe the larger gears would have bee cast and had their faces scalloped out like most larger change wheels on lathes, this would add a nice artistic feature.
Brilliant again Joe, as usual. Although it is 5.30 am Wales time (the centre of the universe) I have no trouble watching your videos. Thank you so much Joe. Regards from Wales. PS. I just knew you would make a new handle ha ha
Good save on the back gears.PM Research prints are better than most. I built their #6 horizontal steam engine. I also built a Tiny Power Ajax horizontal.The prints are drawn up in fractions.Honestly,the latter is the smoothest running engine I have ever built. I am looking forward to the next part of this build.
This is a great example of where dimensions should be listed as asymmetrical. The gap being +.005 -.000, and the pulley being +.000 -.005 Still, the gears are sized such that like you did here someone will mostly likely need to thin them out 5-10 thou
Sooo small and, another challenge! Lot's of usual and useful tips. Have to agree, bar stock would sure simplify things but your technique was a joy to watch for the results Joe, including that clearance fix. :)
Interesting project; can't wait to see it finished. BTW, a little mineral spirits sprayed on the part will prevent aluminum from welding to the tool like that.
Hi Joe, It looks just like a big one when there is nothing to show the scale. I still have my Grandfather's lathe he brought with him when he emigrated from England to Australia in about 1911. It was a treadle lathe, and this headstock is very similar, my Grandfather's only has 3 step pulleys and the back gears. Looking forward to future episodes. Regards Dennis.
I want to see the belt lacing for the ends of the leather belt. I have a Clipper belt lacer for my Southbend lathes. I have an A model, B, and C model. All use a flat leather belt. You do nice work. Thanks for sharing.
"Curious how I sleep at night with a crack in the original handle? Well I sleep just fine because I made another one." Thanks , Joe. Now I can sleep too. ;)
Thank you very much! I learned something today thanks to your expertise. I have trying very unsuccessfully to do some single point threading and my results to date have been crap. It would seem that I have been remiss in how much I was honing my tool. My threads would start out just fine and then all of a sudden right in the middle it would rip the threads out destroying my part and I know it wasn't my half nut timing because even when I left the half nut engaged it did the same thing. "More hone, less moan" will be the motto from today onwards.
Just keep letting us watch and you can unloosen anything you want thanks for another great video btw I received the tee shirt last week and it looks great
It's looking great, and it's so close to being finished. Have you thought about what kind of motor you're going to use and how it will be mounted and all? A quiet DC motor with a planetary gear built in would be good to keep the RPMs down, or a small "gear" reduction setup with pulleys. I can't wait to see.
For a thin Flat belt -- Check with the Edison Phonograph Guys, The thin leather belt that drives the Cylinder machines I bet would work Nicely. Its also easy to handle and splice.
you have a favorite ground tool you use constantly throughout your videos, that you honed on this video. is that hss or carbide? is it a special grind you have decided to use? it seems to work very well on small parts. could you say more about it, how to grind it, etc?
I've heard it called "built up edge" When I have a problem with it I bump the edge straight on with something soft like mild steel. Brass is cool too. I tap it in the direction of chip flow. Good oil or coolant helps with this pesky issue.
Also higher cutting speed (provided you stay within the heat capacity of whatever your tool is made of). This is one reason ceramic or diamond or CBN tooling can get such a great finish: you can run it REALLY fast without it losing its hardness due to the temperature arising from the fracture energy. The fracture travels increasingly far ahead of the tool tip as you crank up the speed, so basically the material never touches it, and hence can't weld to it.
Yeah....my father's old Clausing has a pin to engage and disengage the back gear. It has produced many parts for Grumman, Sperry, Fairchild/Republic, Sikorsky, GE, Northrop, Silicon Valley Group and many other aerospace, military and tech groups.
I'm having such a great time, following this series! And I think it's hilariosly funny, listening to the amount of seriousness You put into this, emphasizing the importance of tolerances and measures. After all, it''s just a toy, right? Or a mantle piece, or for a display in a showcase. I'm happy for You, that You can get some rest again - after the "handle incident". Now, I have a question for You! What's the approximate worth of all the machines and tools, that were used to make this "mini-lathe"? Stay well, and keep'em coming! I love every second of this series!
It nearly seems that when we give you a compliment it is somehow cheapened compared to just how much skill and knowledge you share with us. Of course it’s a great video because you did it. I kind of feel that anything you post is going to be so well done that it just goes without saying. I will instead say thank you so much for taking the time to help all of us out by posting these wonderful projects and tips that help us learn. Just wish you taught classes that we could attend. Keep up the cause Joe. We are blessed.
I totally agree, well said
Thank you for the flattering comment.
I'm enjoying this series.
I think I learned more from watching you work the pulleys as you have them rather than you taking the easy route and making them out of bar stock.
Thanks for sharing, it's good stuff.
Enjoying this entire project! Thanks Joe.
When I went to tech school back in 1970, before I went off to play GI, they figured that that tooth was something that helped tool life. Probably because of the low grade tool bits that were available. Aluminum wasn't included in that. I have also discovered that super gluing a piece of emery cloth to the drive spud helps a lot in that pressing type operation. It doesn't need to be really coarse. Great series, by the way.
I look forward to these each week since you started this project, and you never disappoint. Thanks for all the work it takes to bring us these videos!
Thank you for doing these, Joe! I learn something new from every single video you post!
Another good demo. Also, my OCD is happy that you remade the cracked handle piece. =)
I KNEW that was going to happen LOL. No way Joe leaves something that he has to explain! It's like I always told my staff - expense reports are to be read...not listened to! And I can tell that Joe is a great showman...not an explainer!
Hi Joe, I am only half way through but I thought that I would mention a couple of things for your audience; I use very old 3.5" centre lathes, what you would call 7" swing, with flat belt drives. At this size the crown on the pulleys is unnecessary as the steps keep the belt in place. Your model's prototype will be a big industrial lathe with long belts coming, probably, from a high ceiling so belt tracking will be more of an issue. Also, you run an industrial workshop producing large amounts of work efficiently and economically so you will grind your tools accordingly. I use HSS tooling and grind my own using experimentation for the best finishes on occasional single parts. I have found that up to 15 degrees top rake gives excellent results. The point here for hobby machinists is get to know your machine and don't be afraid to experiment. I don't know much but like to share what little I do.
I have now seen the rest...superb again Joe, thank you very much
very precise Joe. very nice work. loving this one so much. keep em coming.
Personally I would add a little Loctite on that press fit to prevent it from unloosening. Keep practicing !
So that is why my aluminum finish does that. Thank you
This is a really fun series with lots of operations. In the end it will be a beautiful piece as well.
Joe, great technique around 24:00 - 25:00 plunging the 45 into the driving brass first, and then coming back into the part. Made me smile! Thoroughly enjoying this build!
Absolutely beautiful work Joe! Small is a nightmare to me, you do some great work.
Aluminium is a pain to grind as well as it just acts like sticky clay. Candle wax works great for grinding with flap discs and it will cut twice as fast and oily coolant works great for turning and drilling. I don't have any chalk so haven't tried that yet but think they use it when filing.
Vaseline when grinding aluminum works good.
Thanks for the wax advice, definitely chalk for filing. Kerosene is good for drilling and turning and threading too.
I’m by no means a machinist but I love watching this type of content! Awesome to see people who know what they are doing and explains things in the process! Keep up the great work!
Thanks.
So many set up tips in this episode and thank you for the narrative and reasoning.
You are the man absolutely assume work, I only dream of doing work like you do and you make it look so easy! Thank you for taking the time to make these wonderful videos that I really enjoy watching.
Thanks. Don't be afraid to fail and learn from every mistake. Be patient and safety first.
Piece of barstock would definitely be the way to go. However, the intricacies of problem-solving via workholding is one of my favorite parts about this trade. Nice work as always Joe.😎😎
I have not been watching each video on this build. I have been updated by your thumbnails. OMG, I think your patience is almost that of a saint.
:) at times.
I'm very much enjoying all your work Joe.👍👍
These videos aren't complete until we've heard at least one motorcycle racing off into the distance.
Great work Joe, another challenging part solved cleanly, enjoyed seeing how it's done, cheers!
I know this is coming.......a video of this lathe in use making a part for another project.......
If not, you at.least gave it some thought.
Enjoying this series greatly
Thanks for the entertainment and lessons.
I may have to test it.
36:04 There it is! I’ve been waiting for an ‘unloosen’. Wow - what tiny precision work. Nice job, boss.
Thanks.
Throughly enjoy watching this project. I own an old southbend lathe with the same drive and backgear as this. Thanks Jo. 👍
Its a clever design.
Smashing work Joe, learnt a bit about pressure turning 🤗
Great video. When you finish this series I've got to make one of these. Thank you.
Joe, the bull gear locking pin used in the Southbends and others is a later development. I have a 1868 patent Putnam 18X60" that uses a square headed bolt in a radial slot. Loosen the nut and move it in the slot to tie the spindle/bull gear to the slot for the bolt head in the step pulley. It does work but not as nice as a 9" Southbend pin! Interesting side note; the 1868 Putnam cross feed used a 3/4X6 Acme thread with NO micrometer dial. But how would you make a dial with 166.666 divisions? I guess you worked it with calipers or used the compound if you wanted to turn to a dimension. The compound was made with a 10 pitch screw and 100 division dial. Both the cross feed nut and screw were worn out so when I rebuilt the lathe I made a 3/4X5 screw, nut and 200 division dial to modernize and make the lathe more usable.
To add to this, I've got a 1916 South Bend 13" that has a square head bolt on the bull gear that you have to slide in the slot.
I must admit joe, I would have taken the easy option and made one from round bar, but It’s good to see you using the supplied casting and a nice job you did too.
Beautiful work once again, Joe!!
I'm glad you didn't use bar stock, as I learned more about work holding small parts from you. Thank you.
I too certainly enjoyed that ……. And you just couldn’t stand that crack 🤪? Glad you had the time to fix it. I know you’ll sleep better. 👍👍😎👍👍
Joe, I spent my industrial career working on Euro equipment, all metric. Whenever there was a high tolerance fit, like a pin in a hole the print would call out the nominal size, say 100 mm. Then the call out on the hole would be say, 100 +.02/+.04 mm and the pin callout would be, 100 -.02/-.04. So the minimum tolerance would be .04 and the max tolerance would be .08. This eliminates that tolerance issue.
Agreed.
Hey Joe thank you again. You do such a nice job of instructing !!
my granddaughter asked me to "unloosen" the top to her drink cup today. i had to ask if she'd been watching joe pi. lol i got a funny look
The mini lathe build is coming along nicely Joe. Enjoying the series mate. Cheers from Downunder. Aaron.
27:57 someone is inspecting your work Joe!
Nice to see that even experts run into the things that make us pull our hair out! Realistically, how can PMR put out instructions that they have to know are flawed in this area? Surely they have received phone calls about this problem. Great recovery there btw! These things seem to crop up on every project in one way or another. Watching guys like you overcome those issues is a true learning experience! Thanks again Joe!
There have been a few hiccups along the way, but the recovery usually leads to a better part. Overall, its a great kit.
I do really enjoy watching your craftsmanship!
You got me ,lol. I made the 4 jaw chuck yesterday first one after I got it turned , I forgot to get the collet block collar tight in the mill , Dhooo. Second one I bumped the vice out of square on the mill , took an hour getting it right and aligned to the part and reset the DRO. I did not make drawings . Kinda seat of my pants from the tee cutter size I have. Made the Jaws in bras , thought it looked cool. Came out quite nice . Chuck body is 1042 stress proof steal , slooow going ! Got er done ! Just need to put the features on the Jaws. Thank you !
Its funny how changes in diameter are announced by the reflections. The crowning of the cone pulleys was perfect. Like you initially saying " why bother" with the crown I was agreeing with you, but after the polish it totally made the piece. Btw, nice finish work on all the rest of the assembly. Nothing gives away a miniature's scale like burs and tool marks. Nice.
Thanks for the comment. Burrs and tool marks are not welcome here. ( maggots either )
I have access to a 3 speed 25 in lathe dating back into the 50's that still has its original hand laced belt. 8 in from chuck center to the bed rail clearance. I have made some incredibly large pieces on it over the last 42 years with my old business partner. We are both retired now and lovin it. I have yet to have a need to pressure turn but know when the time comes I won't be in the dark. Stock or a Gr 8 bolt would be my choice, LOL. Sweet seeing the crowns come to fruit. Very nice indeed. Sure pays to spend a lot of time as needed when working with prints looking for little glitches like what you encountered here eh. Well my friend one more tick on the parts list done eh !
Great lessons….funny a fly appeared and was thinking where to poop…..lol
Hi Chuck. I believe you are correct.
When blue-up isn't available, and black-up has faded to a low contrast grey-up, red-up works great. Assembly looks awesome.
The OSHA mini-micro drone fly shows up at 28:00 to collect data on your pulley. Great progress and technique !
It's a fly cutter. Just takes off a gnat's hair though. ⭐😃👍
He stopped by to take a dump on my tool.
Excellent video. I guess you are at least one of the first to make this model so are catching all the little issues with it. If you have the time, I think on the full size lathe the larger gears would have bee cast and had their faces scalloped out like most larger change wheels on lathes, this would add a nice artistic feature.
This is just great, and thanks for making it clearer to me how back gears work, glad you remade the handle too!
I couldn't leave that crack there.
Very nice, Joe....good save!
Brilliant again Joe, as usual. Although it is 5.30 am Wales time (the centre of the universe) I have no trouble watching your videos. Thank you so much Joe. Regards from Wales. PS. I just knew you would make a new handle ha ha
Gotta love tolerance stack.
Good save on the back gears.PM Research prints are better than most.
I built their #6 horizontal steam engine. I also built a Tiny Power Ajax horizontal.The prints are drawn up in fractions.Honestly,the latter is the smoothest running engine I have ever built.
I am looking forward to the next part of this build.
I knew you would make a new handle.
We were all having trouble sleeping with that knowing about that crack too. LOL Now we can all sleep better. Thanks Joe.
Great as usual. JP the machinist encyclopedia.
I hope you will use this lathe to make the much anticipated REAL lock.
This is a great example of where dimensions should be listed as asymmetrical. The gap being +.005 -.000, and the pulley being +.000 -.005
Still, the gears are sized such that like you did here someone will mostly likely need to thin them out 5-10 thou
True, but the amount of potential movement in each sub assembly would also have to be factored in for positional accuracy.
It's getting there slowly but surely, keep up the great work.
My Myford ML7 uses a cap screw to locate the bull pin. So it’s fine really.
Beautiful work as always.
Thanks John. I sure would like to have a pull pin like a SB.
very good video JOE..thanks for your time
Sooo small and, another challenge! Lot's of usual and useful tips. Have to agree, bar stock would sure simplify things but your technique was a joy to watch for the results Joe, including that clearance fix. :)
Awesome as usual, glad you are now sleeping well :D
Interesting project; can't wait to see it finished. BTW, a little mineral spirits sprayed on the part will prevent aluminum from welding to the tool like that.
Hi Joe, It looks just like a big one when there is nothing to show the scale.
I still have my Grandfather's lathe he brought with him when he emigrated from England to Australia in about 1911. It was a treadle lathe, and this headstock is very similar, my Grandfather's only has 3 step pulleys and the back gears.
Looking forward to future episodes.
Regards Dennis.
If it is of any comfort my Myford ML7 has a bull pin that needs unscrewing as well. (My Atlas 10 has a pull out one). Nice work.
I want to see the belt lacing for the ends of the leather belt. I have a Clipper belt lacer for my Southbend lathes. I have an A model, B, and C model. All use a flat leather belt. You do nice work. Thanks for sharing.
They have suggested crazy glue, but I'd love to find a continuous belt and just size everything else to suit.
Thanks for the video Joe.
Coming along nicely! Very cool project.
"Curious how I sleep at night with a crack in the original handle? Well I sleep just fine because I made another one."
Thanks , Joe. Now I can sleep too. ;)
great progress , it looks good, cant wait to see the mini mill work, maybe knock off a piece with it
after my spring time visit I smile every time I hear the background noise of the hotrodders leaving the stop light.
Its especially active on Saturdays.
Where do you get cows small enough to make the leather flat belt?
Smallville TX
Personally I like the Narration I’m not a machinist but it makes me understand better
Same here.
I am a machinist, and it still helps me.
;)
You're the best Joe 💪
I believe its a full size lathe and you have very big hands!😂.
Great work, as always. Thank you.
great video Joe. is disengaged the same as unengaged !!!
In this shop it is.
Magnificent Joe, a piece of beauty...
Great episode again.. Cheers
Magic piece of work Joe, regards Frank
Thank you very much! I learned something today thanks to your expertise. I have trying very unsuccessfully to do some single point threading and my results to date have been crap. It would seem that I have been remiss in how much I was honing my tool. My threads would start out just fine and then all of a sudden right in the middle it would rip the threads out destroying my part and I know it wasn't my half nut timing because even when I left the half nut engaged it did the same thing. "More hone, less moan" will be the motto from today onwards.
Did you check the lead screw for play ? or back gear not meshed right.
Great job, really making some progress now. Does the kit include a suitable flat belt?
Yaaay!
Another lathe episode!
Awesome
Just keep letting us watch and you can unloosen anything you want thanks for another great video btw I received the tee shirt last week and it looks great
Thanks. the shirts came out nice.
Laughed way tooooo many times!! Thanks Joe
Such nice work Joe, pleased to hear you can sleep at night now - lol
Looking good. Pretty interesting part.
Thanks again Joe.
It's looking great, and it's so close to being finished. Have you thought about what kind of motor you're going to use and how it will be mounted and all? A quiet DC motor with a planetary gear built in would be good to keep the RPMs down, or a small "gear" reduction setup with pulleys. I can't wait to see.
I'll stay period correct and belt drive it off the steam engine I built.
They're adding a lot of cost to that kit with all those unnecessary castings when a piece of bar stock would be sufficient.
It would have simplified things, but castings keep it interesting.
Excellent. Thanks Joe.
Thanks Joe
Beautiful!
Your voice reminds me of jody's from weldingtipsandtricks, very soothing and great at educating, thanks!
Nice job again Joe.You amaze me.
For a thin Flat belt -- Check with the Edison Phonograph Guys, The thin leather belt that drives the Cylinder machines I bet would work Nicely. Its also easy to handle and splice.
Well done as usual thanks for sharing your knowledge in the video
you have a favorite ground tool you use constantly throughout your videos, that you honed on this video. is that hss or carbide? is it a special grind you have decided to use? it seems to work very well on small parts. could you say more about it, how to grind it, etc?
Well done Joe 👍🏻👍🏻
I've heard it called "built up edge" When I have a problem with it I bump the edge straight on with something soft like mild steel. Brass is cool too. I tap it in the direction of chip flow. Good oil or coolant helps with this pesky issue.
Also higher cutting speed (provided you stay within the heat capacity of whatever your tool is made of). This is one reason ceramic or diamond or CBN tooling can get such a great finish: you can run it REALLY fast without it losing its hardness due to the temperature arising from the fracture energy. The fracture travels increasingly far ahead of the tool tip as you crank up the speed, so basically the material never touches it, and hence can't weld to it.
Yeah....my father's old Clausing has a pin to engage and disengage the back gear. It has produced many parts for Grumman, Sperry, Fairchild/Republic, Sikorsky, GE, Northrop, Silicon Valley Group and many other aerospace, military and tech groups.
I like the pin, but space is very limited.
I'm having such a great time, following this series! And I think it's hilariosly funny, listening to the amount of seriousness You put into this, emphasizing the importance of tolerances and measures. After all, it''s just a toy, right? Or a mantle piece, or for a display in a showcase.
I'm happy for You, that You can get some rest again - after the "handle incident". Now, I have a question for You! What's the approximate worth of all the machines and tools, that were used to make this "mini-lathe"?
Stay well, and keep'em coming! I love every second of this series!