The thermostat should always be in place no matter what the engine. It actually helps to keep it cooler. I’ve had engines in the past blow a head gasket due to removal of the stat. Best job is to drill a 6mm hole through the non moving part of it to help with initial coolant bleeding.
It's great watching you work things out so well and leaving nothing to chance great work, this things going to be a monster when finished, looking forward to the test run.
Back in the day (well, still do it) I was taught to cut out the little jiggle valve in the thermostat and enlarge the hole a bit, in case of failure just to allow a bit of flow. In race and high performance stuff where the thermostat "want needed" always cut the guts out (remove the valve plate and wax pellet) and leave the base and frame of the thermostat in tact to allow some flow restriction. Deleting entirely increases the flow to the point where the heat doesn't transfer from the water galleries enough to soak into the coolant. I think it might also introduce a laminar flow in some cases that compounds the effect.
@@VasilyBuildsQuestion....Do you know how hard it'd be to modify a riding lawnmower so it could go/drive along at 25-30 mph when it's not cutting grass, but still be able to cut grass at normal speeds??? So you could just raise the deck up & drive across town at 25mph... Instead having to load it on a flatbed truck & trailer that I don't have.
Keep the thermostat. In no traffic conditions it would be fine but in stop/go traffic you'll start to cycle hot coolent. Had the problem on my jeep when I removed it.
Merry Christmas, Vasily! Dude, your creative talents, fabricative skills and every thing else about you surely will soon garner the attention of any of the main-stream automotive manufacturing enterprises. They're literally begging for people just like you to come and be a part of their design/production teams. I see a great, prosperous future in store for you, Vasily !!!!
The thermostat isn’t a restriction and there’s zero reason to remove it even on turbo busa. The engine is designed to run in the 190-220 range and makes the most power there. The electric water pump isn’t an issue as long as the bypass hose from the thermostat housing is hooked up to the radiator it will work the same as a mechanical pump that’s always working when the engine is running.
I don't suggest setting a rtimer for the waterpump, because if you stall the engine and start it again, it may overheat since there is no pump moving the cool water to the engine.
For your turn buckles you called them, should add jam nuts to hold the bolt in position under high torque, kinda like a dirt bike swing arm has the 2 jam nuts
I ran a electric water pump on my 99 gaxr750. Just pull the thermostat and drill out the rivet hole just a little bigger but it definitely works. Actually I thought it worked better than the factory water pump.
I've deleted thermostats before and the issue was that the thermostat slowed down the coolant flow. With it out it flowed too fast through the radiator and didn't have enough time to cool before returning into the engine.
If you remove the Thermostat, the coolant water will rush thru the engine TOO FAST and wont have time to absorb heat and wick-it away from the engine! The restriction of flow is needed to slow the coolant down and give it time to soak up heat
You definitely need the restriction of the t-stat. They make restriction washers, or you can gut the thermostat. Cool little side gig on the Lamborghini. I can weld ferrous decent enough, but aluminum is a whole different animal.
I have an pieburg200 ewp on my car and i removed the thermostat and turn on the pump after a minute and have it on it's lowest power. I read that the thermostat puts exra uneeded strain on the pump
@@vanzkid209 Neither really. I'm acknowledging Vasily's skills. So, I guess that could be considered a compliment. But, all I was trying to say is that working on a car that expensive is a risk.
Leave the thermostat. The water must not flow to fast en freely or else it doesn't get chance to remove the heat in a proper manner from the engine internals.
I don't think torque steer will be an issue, 🤔 it doesn't have differential to allow one wheel to pull harder than the other. It will always want to go in a straight line.
Bro I’ve been binge watching all your videos waiting and waiting for the newest update and your amazing knowledge and you hit us with a little ten minute er vid sheeesh dang bro I’m so greatfull for your whole archive of videos all the information and funny stuff man I wish I could have this be apart of my life you make me wanna do so much stuff your the reason I’m gonna buy a welder and build my first cross kart when I’m financially stable to do so or my wife lets me and my daughter lol please don’t ever stop entertaining I was a homeless drug addict for most my life and not having anything to look forward to but death and I’ll be straight up hobbies are what help me stay straight and my baby girl but watching you start out from your back yard with basically nothing to what you are now kinda reminds me of my story as far as life with nothing to all I’ve accomplished staying clean giving my daughter the life I never had and being there for her as a good father forever and your just awsome man I could right a whole book of praise I just wanna say thanks man means so much to me more then you could ever know .
Definitely keep the thermostat or the engine will run too cool. I recommend setting up a remote thermostat setup so access will be easier, and you could also use a standard type 'stat from GM so you can play with different temperatures so you can dial-in the engine's happy spot, since it's going to be in a very different operating environment.
Looking good. I would keep the thermostat, remove the vent hole rivet/pin, maybe drill the vent hole in the thermostat a bit larger. On a system with long coolant runs, and a radiator higher then the coolant lines, trapped air becomes a problem, so i think some constant flow is needed. Is that a single or two speed fan? Running the fan at a slower speed continuously, with a higher speed on a temperature controlled circuit could be an option. You may need a coolant reservoir/swirl pot to help remove air pockets. Here is a video of how I did my cooling system on a rear engine swap, with a flow diagram (at 18 min mark) ua-cam.com/video/9Dsm13IHMZk/v-deo.htmlsi=Rv5wwjufGzsxROB9 Keep up the good work👍 P.S. Most interesting welding project I've done was building boat ladder 🤣
Merry xmas! great job on the progress on the build. i am not as smart as you are sir, but i know that you will make the chassis and everything else reliable and not cause issues down the line. cheers and see you in the next vid!
Don't remove the thermostat completely, instead cut the center out leaving the disk with smaller hole to restrict water flow. Of course You have the skills , tools and materials that You could make a restrictor plate also.
When I was younger, I developed, and even made a cardboard example of how to have brakes and chain drive on the same system, along with so many other thing's(I was super into "wanting" to make a GoKart). I wish so bad I could find the scrap book I called "My inventions", lol. I had a some neat stuff in that thing :) I never got to the point where I could do what you're capable of now, specifically, welding. It has to be a good feeling to know that if you need something bad enough, you can create it yourself.
Hats off for being enthusiastic but be careful where you put your welding ground because you can damage bearings clamping on the frame and welding on that rearend housing.
Regarding the water pump, it depends on how you control it. If you're using a PWM controller, you can remove the thermostat. But if you're just using an on/off switch, then you should leave the thermostat in there. Maybe drill a small hole in it, so the pump doesn't cavitate.
Is it really a good idea to run those turnbuckles to the engine? Every acceleration, deceleration, gear shift and hard brake is going to transfer that energy to that cast aluminum. The lock down bolts will help but not stop it. Just thinking out loud.
Goddamn Vasily, you're stacking pennies like a pro now, no need to grind on those beauties Turnbuckles will fail, i'd use the Busasystem from the swingarm & you need an exp.tank to flip the radiator Thanks for sharing & happy newyear
![Customer States & Mechanical Fails [Part 39]](/img/n.gif)
The thermostat should always be in place no matter what the engine. It actually helps to keep it cooler. I’ve had engines in the past blow a head gasket due to removal of the stat. Best job is to drill a 6mm hole through the non moving part of it to help with initial coolant bleeding.
You are quite the fabricator! Merry Christmas!
It's great watching you work things out so well and leaving nothing to chance great work, this things going to be a monster when finished, looking forward to the test run.
What a build 0:30 😂
Back in the day (well, still do it) I was taught to cut out the little jiggle valve in the thermostat and enlarge the hole a bit, in case of failure just to allow a bit of flow. In race and high performance stuff where the thermostat "want needed" always cut the guts out (remove the valve plate and wax pellet) and leave the base and frame of the thermostat in tact to allow some flow restriction. Deleting entirely increases the flow to the point where the heat doesn't transfer from the water galleries enough to soak into the coolant. I think it might also introduce a laminar flow in some cases that compounds the effect.
I love the way this is turning out. Thanks for always being an inspiration for all of us 🤙
💪👊
@@VasilyBuildsQuestion....Do you know how hard it'd be to modify a riding lawnmower so it could go/drive along at 25-30 mph when it's not cutting grass, but still be able to cut grass at normal speeds??? So you could just raise the deck up & drive across town at 25mph... Instead having to load it on a flatbed truck & trailer that I don't have.
I dig the sponsorship plug during the explanation of the rear driveline. Around the 4 minute mark all I could see was HTP on your hoodie. 😅😅👊🏻
Posting on Christmas thanks vasily❤
Keep the thermostat. In no traffic conditions it would be fine but in stop/go traffic you'll start to cycle hot coolent. Had the problem on my jeep when I removed it.
Merry Christmas, Vasily! Dude, your creative talents, fabricative skills and every thing else about you surely will soon garner the attention of any of the main-stream automotive manufacturing enterprises. They're literally begging for people just like you to come and be a part of their design/production teams. I see a great, prosperous future in store for you, Vasily !!!!
The thermostat isn’t a restriction and there’s zero reason to remove it even on turbo busa. The engine is designed to run in the 190-220 range and makes the most power there. The electric water pump isn’t an issue as long as the bypass hose from the thermostat housing is hooked up to the radiator it will work the same as a mechanical pump that’s always working when the engine is running.
I don't suggest setting a rtimer for the waterpump, because if you stall the engine and start it again, it may overheat since there is no pump moving the cool water to the engine.
those welds were clean af.
10:00 zoom in and check that weld. Doesn't look like it's fully secured to the mount. I can see a crack.
For your turn buckles you called them, should add jam nuts to hold the bolt in position under high torque, kinda like a dirt bike swing arm has the 2 jam nuts
I'm in awe of your fabrication skills. Keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing it on the road. 👍 Dave from UK
I ran a electric water pump on my 99 gaxr750. Just pull the thermostat and drill out the rivet hole just a little bigger but it definitely works. Actually I thought it worked better than the factory water pump.
Gsxr
I've deleted thermostats before and the issue was that the thermostat slowed down the coolant flow. With it out it flowed too fast through the radiator and didn't have enough time to cool before returning into the engine.
5:58 160 will be Nm witch is 16 kg.
160kg is like a steel rod 😃good progress tho, love the projects .
Merry Christmas, Thanks
If you remove the Thermostat, the coolant water will rush thru the engine TOO FAST and wont have time to absorb heat and wick-it away from the engine!
The restriction of flow is needed to slow the coolant down and give it time to soak up heat
Merry Christmas to you and your family 👍🎅
Merry Christmas bud
It's coming together Awesome Vasily. I hope you and yours had a great Christmas.Happy New Year !
You definitely need the restriction of the t-stat. They make restriction washers, or you can gut the thermostat.
Cool little side gig on the Lamborghini. I can weld ferrous decent enough, but aluminum is a whole different animal.
Prettig Kerstmis en een goed Nieuwjaar.
I have an pieburg200 ewp on my car and i removed the thermostat and turn on the pump after a minute and have it on it's lowest power. I read that the thermostat puts exra uneeded strain on the pump
Use a restrictor plate in place of the thermostat.
You need a thermostat to keep the engine temp at a constant temperature. And as it closes the fluid in the radiator has longer time to cool down.
You answered your own question with the thermostat. If it needs the back pressure You need to keep it
with aluminum its much easier with 3/16 filler :D pro tip
🤣🤣🤣 you must be welding 2" thick aluminum
Water pump should be set to be on when running and drill a couple wholes in that thermostat to flow when not up to temp
I live in Florida. Lots of people don't even bother with running thermostats down here. It never gets cold enough to need one.
I agree👍 also swirl pot to remove air/steam, I left him a comment explaining my thoughts🤔
Even with your fabrictation skills, I wouldn't touch anyone else's Lambo. Not without insurance and waivers.
🤣👍
I would
is this a compliment or just being rude?
@@vanzkid209 Neither really. I'm acknowledging Vasily's skills. So, I guess that could be considered a compliment. But, all I was trying to say is that working on a car that expensive is a risk.
@@bradleyj.fortner2203 oh thanks, I got confused.
keep the thermostat
make it turn on when it hits a certain temp
You are a great welder 💪💪
Leave the thermostat in!! It’ll actually improve cooling efficiency!!
Figuring suspension can be a bitch i had the same problem with my old coilovers for my 670 build like your black or blue one
Lambo sitting on a harbor freight jack. 😂
Are there any snap rings holding the splined axle shaft in place? I noticed a couple of grub screws.
No it's just squeezed together by bolts
Class build.
Leave the thermostat. The water must not flow to fast en freely or else it doesn't get chance to remove the heat in a proper manner from the engine internals.
i always delete thermostat but i live in south florida
DO NOT put your coolant lines on the inside of the cab.
Only use the thermostat if you want heat in the car. If you don't want heat no need to keep it
That makes no sense. The purpose of the of thermostat is to allow the engine temp to come up to proper operating temperature.
My concern would be torque steer given hor the sprocket is farther to one side it can happen to rear engined cars
I don't think torque steer will be an issue, 🤔 it doesn't have differential to allow one wheel to pull harder than the other. It will always want to go in a straight line.
@@TSRGarage rear engine cars do have this issue as funny as it sounds if it were me id put extra bracing on the passenger side to try and reduce it
And now all the electronics in the lambo are cooked
Engaged
For all of you american folks, 160kg is about 350lbs, and for all of european folks, 450lbs is about 200-205kg
Thermostat stays
🙏🔥🙌
What is your day job?? Welder 👩🏭?? Fabricator?? Mechanic?? Or just UA-cam??
just youtube
@@VasilyBuilds well ya have some stuff to fall back on.
You might want to make your videos a little longer than 10 minutes
Bro I’ve been binge watching all your videos waiting and waiting for the newest update and your amazing knowledge and you hit us with a little ten minute er vid sheeesh dang bro I’m so greatfull for your whole archive of videos all the information and funny stuff man I wish I could have this be apart of my life you make me wanna do so much stuff your the reason I’m gonna buy a welder and build my first cross kart when I’m financially stable to do so or my wife lets me and my daughter lol please don’t ever stop entertaining I was a homeless drug addict for most my life and not having anything to look forward to but death and I’ll be straight up hobbies are what help me stay straight and my baby girl but watching you start out from your back yard with basically nothing to what you are now kinda reminds me of my story as far as life with nothing to all I’ve accomplished staying clean giving my daughter the life I never had and being there for her as a good father forever and your just awsome man I could right a whole book of praise I just wanna say thanks man means so much to me more then you could ever know .
That's awesome man! You got this 💪
Definitely keep the thermostat or the engine will run too cool. I recommend setting up a remote thermostat setup so access will be easier, and you could also use a standard type 'stat from GM so you can play with different temperatures so you can dial-in the engine's happy spot, since it's going to be in a very different operating environment.
Cool
Looking good.
I would keep the thermostat, remove the vent hole rivet/pin, maybe drill the vent hole in the thermostat a bit larger. On a system with long coolant runs, and a radiator higher then the coolant lines, trapped air becomes a problem, so i think some constant flow is needed.
Is that a single or two speed fan? Running the fan at a slower speed continuously, with a higher speed on a temperature controlled circuit could be an option. You may need a coolant reservoir/swirl pot to help remove air pockets. Here is a video of how I did my cooling system on a rear engine swap, with a flow diagram (at 18 min mark) ua-cam.com/video/9Dsm13IHMZk/v-deo.htmlsi=Rv5wwjufGzsxROB9
Keep up the good work👍
P.S.
Most interesting welding project I've done was building boat ladder 🤣
Merry xmas! great job on the progress on the build. i am not as smart as you are sir, but i know that you will make the chassis and everything else reliable and not cause issues down the line. cheers and see you in the next vid!
Don't remove the thermostat completely, instead cut the center out leaving the disk with smaller hole to restrict water flow. Of course You have the skills , tools and materials that You could make a restrictor plate also.
When I was younger, I developed, and even made a cardboard example of how to have brakes and chain drive on the same system, along with so many other thing's(I was super into "wanting" to make a GoKart). I wish so bad I could find the scrap book I called "My inventions", lol. I had a some neat stuff in that thing :) I never got to the point where I could do what you're capable of now, specifically, welding. It has to be a good feeling to know that if you need something bad enough, you can create it yourself.
Hats off for being enthusiastic but be careful where you put your welding ground because you can damage bearings clamping on the frame and welding on that rearend housing.
Was welding a "Lambo" everything you dreamed it would be?,🤭, people are sooooooo stupid sometimes.🙄
🖖😎
Still can't wait to see it spittin the asphalt rooster tail style.
Well done young sir. I believe you are going to be big. God has blessed you with skill and humble manners.
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Vasily and family!
Merry Christmas. It’s coming along nicely so far
If it's not running a heater not really any need for thermostat
Merry Christmas to us all!
Were you born with a welder in your hand ? LOL 🙂
Merry christmas dude I miss those days so much
Merry Xmass!
You need to learn how to feed the rod
Can’t wait to see that thing rip
No more disk brakes in the rear?
Xmas shenanigans 💪👍☮️
Regarding the water pump, it depends on how you control it. If you're using a PWM controller, you can remove the thermostat. But if you're just using an on/off switch, then you should leave the thermostat in there. Maybe drill a small hole in it, so the pump doesn't cavitate.
Gday mate
First
Is it really a good idea to run those turnbuckles to the engine? Every acceleration, deceleration, gear shift and hard brake is going to transfer that energy to that cast aluminum. The lock down bolts will help but not stop it. Just thinking out loud.
Goddamn Vasily, you're stacking pennies like a pro now, no need to grind on those beauties
Turnbuckles will fail, i'd use the Busasystem from the swingarm & you need an exp.tank to flip the radiator
Thanks for sharing & happy newyear
A thermostat can tell u a lot .
Its easily tested, as long as it's not corroded or bent. I can recommend one with bleed hole. Get some rest vas💪👍
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, Mr. Vasily!! 😃🙂
What a build!
Dollar store welding gloves....nice! 😂