DIY - drilling out stripped brake rotor screws
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2010
- Sometime, you come across a stripped or stuck screw on brake rotors - and it needs to be drilled out to remove the rotor. This DIY demonstrates how it's done on a Porsche 996, however, it applies to the full Porsche line-up, plus most other European cars.
See my other videos for step-by-step instructions on changing front and rear bolts. - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for taking the time to share your tip with us! Upgrading the rotors on my '04 Mercedes W203 and the passenger side would NOT budge. Used your tip and I'm happy to report that my dual-vented, cross-drilled rotors are now on my Baby and performing just FINE, (withOUT the errant little seized up torx-30 installed)! :)
Nice Job on the video...
Stripped rotor screw on a honda. Did your method and worked perfectly. Thank you for an easy fix.
Thank you for the advice here. I went to 2 local auto part stores, and then a Fisk Farm and Home, and Farm fleet, and couldn't find the center drill bit. So without the center cut/drilling, i just took a cobalt 1/4 in or 6.3 mm bit, lubed it up with PB blaster, started drilling and was able to zip the heads right off the screw (the first one was done in less than 30 sec) once I got to the 4th screw on the passenger side, the bit was getting a little worn and dull, so the last one took like 2.5 minutes. But thanks again, I was able to get the rotors off and replace them with new ones earlier today.
Life saver brother. I stripped the screws on my prelude and just didn't know what to do. Used this method got on side done. Will try on the other side tmr.
Your frozen screw removal method worked for me with a 2012 Honda CR-V rotor screw. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. Big thumbs up. You just saved my afternoon with this little trick!
you are like the bob ross of mechanics nice vid btw
Van Svenson - The Joy of Drilling! Thanks, I got a good laugh out of that one!
@@jackallen6261 lol instead of "beat the devil out of it" "drill the devil out of it"
Man great indepth video I was drilling drilling drilling until I seen you used that little bit then it was gravy after I changed up thank you
As many of you know already. When putting the screws in, don't put them in tight. They actually dont help you aside from alight holes for you when you put the wheel bolts back in with the wheel in. So you can actually bolt back onto the hub
Yeah, they honestly aren’t even truly necessary I really wish manufacturers would stop using these, they’re just a pain.
@@arkman117 they truly are
No you do not need those screws.@@sloweg3113
Great description and explanations for each step
I hate these screw so God. Damn. Much. Always always always frozen.
Really nice vid did my rotor screws like you did and worked better then good. Did not have the center drill but used a 4mm and 6mm.
just did this for the 1st time & it worked! & want to say thank you!
When removing these screws use an impact hammer with a phillips head. It usually brakes the rust and makes the screw removable. Impact wrench works too but can sometimes strip the head. When reinstalling these screws i put anti-seize on the screws especially above the neck where it meets the rotor. Then they never fuse again!
Great explanation Thanks, Hope it comes off in my MDX
Thanks for this great video! I have this problem on my Honda's rotors right now.
Great video, very useful. Thank you.
Nicely explained.
Thank you.
@HunterCO1 yea i have been told that to, I second that. 2 yaers now and i never put the screws back in and everything works fine
very nice work thanks for the tips
Thanks man and a well made video!
Worked great!! Thank you!
Yesterday i had a stripped out screw for a rotor, i saw your video and I use a drill to put the damned thing out, and guest what, THAT FKG WORK GREAT!!!!. as Well the like bottom on your channel. Make sure you advice that drill bit must to be in the center of the screw. Thank you for make my day easier.
I apologize for bad words but i couldn't sleep thinking on how i will deal with that.
You could use an extractor. I ended up to round an inbus (allen) screw on the brake rotor and was planing to extract it but it worked with a torx bit (hammered into the hex slot).
Anyway for some heavy duty screws that broke, i used an extractor. easy and sure not to damage threads (but it does not work for small screws like M3, or M4.. an M6 is doable)
Just a quick note: I've found that Lucas hub oil make a REALLY GOOD cutting oil for drilling.
Great video! And to replace mine on BMW Z4, I bought stainless steel replacements from Turner motorsports
Thanks for the video man!
In a different situation with a blind screw hole the old heat and a reverse rotation bit is your friend!
Very nice.
Thank you.
I think you're missing the point. I'm suggesting you just drill the head off - this way you don't even get to the threads in the flange. Also, I've never had great luck with easy-outs - I've had them break more often than remove the stuck bolt.
All mine are stuck in my car and s car I remove the spindle from, talk about s pain in the ass, I just use three different size of drill bits and keep drilling into it then I will reverse the drill real quick so the screw will screw out with the drill bit always works for me but takes about 5mins
Great Info.
Thanks for your reply . I am wondering , too should that rotor just slide off when done? Don't most them do?
great video . learnt a lot thank you . and respect it was a porsche ;)
You don't even need those screws, they are only there to keep the rotor on during manufacture.
This is true, but they make it easier to line up your lug bolts
@Semper Fi are you sure that your car has lug bolts? Tons of cars have lug nuts, but a number of European cars have lug bolts.
after you hit your brakes and her a thonk thunk and now cant get the wheel off you will learn WRONG.!!!! you dont know what your talking about . owe by the way you just pind your luggs and your rotor are off center that wood be the thonk thunk dont try to be a wrench we are tierd off repairing your messes
I always use a impact screwdriver for screws like those
Im not sure what the purpose of the screws are except maybe easing assembly at the factory, but many manufactures let the rotors wobble and tighten up with the lug nuts...
Their sole purpose is to inflict misery on the DIY-er. Why installers cannot use a dab of anti-seize and sensible torque is one of life's mysteries
Put a thin coat of high temp grease on the face of the rotor that chemically welds to the hub so this can only happen to you once. The grease wont move to the rotors if its a thin coat...think about it...most pads require high temp grease on their metal side to limit squealing. And a anti-seize on the caliper bolts, especially if they are flange type.
Just take any bit smaller than the circumference of the screw head, drill dead center until you see it smoke a bit, then grab a screwdriver and a rubber band place the rubber band on the end of the screwdriver and turn it. It will come off really easy. The heat from the drilling and the grip from the rubber band it comes off with almost zero effort.
I used an electric impact driver, worked great. I left them off.
This helped me a lot with a similar issue on an Accord. I don't hope that I have this issue with a Porsche in the future, but I hope I have this issue with a Porsche.
Easier way to do this. Small drill bit, drill part way or all the way through the screw (relieves tension on the threads), get a small easy out, tap it into the new hole with a hammer, put a crescent wrench on your easy out, turn counterclockwise. screw should come out no problem and you dont have to take the head of the screw off.
Double Helix yes, often the drilling creates enough heat to loosen things up. Then, like you said, hammer in a screwdriver and remove.
where can i get the drill bit and what settings?
Will PB help get stuck ones loose?
I use a "glancing" blow when hitting drums... they bounce right off.
just had to do this myself on my honda. 3 of the 4 screws on the front rotors stripped. the phillips head just crumbled. i was pissed, but they drilled out pretty easily. got the rotors off. now i have to drill out the rest of the screws, which is not so easy. from what i read the screws aren't really necessary and almost always break given enough time. they basically just to hold the rotor in place as you put the wheel on. lots of cars dont even have them. pain in the ass....
Omg what kind of drill bits are you using? I've been using a hammer drill and regular drill on 2005 Acura TL rotor screws for six hours and one of my titanium bits actually melted even with silicone lube. I broke all PH3 bits on a brand new impact driver. This is the 3rd day I've been trying to change these brake rotors.😔
Hammer drills are really made for concrete or rock - not a good application for drilling steel. Any good sharp (new) drill bit should work fine. Make sure you have it spinning in the correct direction. Also, use a slow speed, otherwise it'll overheat. Good luck!
Good video and procedure.
Burnt your fingers a little when you touched that removed screw head didn't ya? LOL.
I hate this little thing with all my core
thank you! really helpful while I was removing mine. it's a shame mine didn't come off as easily without the heat.
Those screws like to stay on Porsche 959 and Ferrari F40, even if I used the best impact gun (ATG Gold W7150 1K Kim X) or impact driver available.
Drilled was the only answers and never put those screws back in the rotors.
Those rotors screws are only installed at factory for safety for the workers.
What about a regular impact drill?
If you have a mig welder just keep hitting the head of the screw with the mig and build up some weld, put a pair of vice grips on the build-up and back out the screw. Be careful not to weld the face of the screw to the rotor face or your SCREWED.
What size but did you use? I have gotten most out but the stubborn head is still too attached. I think my bit is too small
That's an M6 thread screw, so the drill should be a little larger than 6mm.
why on earth would the car maker give you 3 rotal holding screws?? 1 is enough to hold the rotar until you put on the wheel bolts.
what type of drill bit cuts through that steel? anything special?
Nothing special - just fresh and sharp. :)
Hi, do you recommend putting new screw back on after the removal of the old ones? I ask this because as you know there are lots of rotors out there that are not screwed on as are tight anyway & the wheel keeps it on tight & safe?
Thanks
I do like using the screws - it helps keep the lug bolt holes lined up. Otherwise, if you take a wheel off, the rotor might spin relative to the hub. But they certainly aren't necessary.
Van Svenson Thanks dude mine are knackered so I'll have to buy some more that fit flush :-)
Van Svenson bingo. It was a pain to put my Audi lug bolts back on because my new rotors did not have rotor screw holes. I had to get a helper to mount my tire. They forced me to tear off one corner of my man card for requiring help remounting a tire :-)
Those screws are nothing but an assembly aid for the factory. No one who knows that would replace them, so it doesn't matter whether the threads in the mating part are damaged.
I wonder what would you recommend to prevent the same situation in the future? Would it be OK to use Anti-Seize on the rotor screws?
+Eric Cheng It would certainly help! But brake rotors go through more intense heating/cooling cycles than any other part - so the anti-seize doesn't last terribly long.
what's with the screws? nissan toyota doesnt use any
Buy a 1/4 drill bit and #3 philips or the JIS. You may get lucky and you can get it out with the bit. If not, you have the drill. Smack the crap out of the screw before attempting. Don't listen to people who say all you need is the JIS. Not true. Screw can still break. There is no guaranteed way.
PB blaster works better when you can actually get it on the threads... And even then, it can *help*, but it usually doesn't *solve* a stuck bolt.
What size was the center drill bit?
I'm glad you got them removed - sorry for the late response. I don't remember the size of the center drill - maybe 3/16"? Maybe 1/4"?
just a little heat.. (Takes a flamethrower to it). There we go, no more screw issues, including no more car LOLOL. But in reality thanks for the video :) now i have no more stuck rotors :D
@Lillie1986 No it wont
An impact driver is the other method.
After applying lots of light oil, leave oil to sink in,
then heat it up and whack it with the impact driver !
Oxygas cutting torch, don't worry about replacing screws and call it a day. Fast, effective and easy solution.
chisel and hammer work great and no risk.
I’m trying that, not sure how you do it! Haha
Dude I tried this but i only had these stupid Hercules drill taps and the tap snapped off into the hole 🤦♂️
If these bolts are used for safety during factory assembly, WHY, WHY, WHY, do you HAVE to put them back???
Man, I was trying to include pics of the stuff that I have, but I couldn't. So anyway guys, quit screwing around. Get Urselves a Snap-on PH 1038, and that'll get them out everytime. No farting around. Just get the job done. If U've got air, and a zip gun, as well as a good spring steel wrench like a Snap-On, U'll get the job done in a heartbeat. Also, goto use a Snap-on brand #2 bit, and U'll be in the home stretch where no one else could possibly be. Costs a little bit, but gets the job done almost everytime. If U're doing this professionally, don't mess around, just get 'er done! The right way. People come out here from 100's of miles around for a reason. I get the job done. And make short order work of it. I don't mess around. U only get so much life to live. How do U want to spend it? Chasing U'r tail, or getting on to the next job. :) I have a big box of centering bits for my lathe, but I wouldn't waste my time w/them on something as simple as this. If U do screw up the screw, just drill off the head w/a drill bit about the same size as the head of the screw, it will come right off. Rotate the rotor to the next stud set and drill a new hole in the hub that U can tap and put a new screw into. I generally don't try to reuse the original screw holes, b/c the hubs are hardened, and generally U'll wind up breaking off a good tap, and wind up having to drill and tap a new hole in an alternate stud location anyway. Always only use good Vermont American, Craftsman, or good German taps to thread any holes U need to in the hub, b/c Ace/Hanson taps, Snap-On taps, and all the other tool dealer's taps are just surface hardened carborized junk. The Vermont American ones, Craftsman ones, or German ones are a little bit softer, and not so hardened, and ductile so that they don't snap off as easily.
Clean the rotors with brake cleaners just for precaution if you use any lubricant! Don't wanna contaminate the pads
I had to do this on my 06 honda accord
Are retaining bolts even needed to hold on a rotor seeing as it's also held on by the wheel?
No, just to help stabilize the rotor when the wheel is off.
@@vsvenson When I replaced the front brakes I had to drill out the head of the retaining bolts. To keep the rotors from slipping while I was putting the wheels on I pumped the brakes. Now I'm experiencing serious brake pad grinding. Is that going to go away?
@@ubroc You have something else going on - make sure the pads are installed the right way. Also do a visual inspection to make sure the rotor isn't rubbing on the caliper - I've seen this if the wrong p/n is used.
Are these bolt necessary?
No - feel free to leave them out.
Damn, you make that like so easy. My mk4 gti passenger rear rotor screw won't come out. I smashed the hell out of it with a hammer hoping to get the rust and gunk stuck between the threads shifted around enough for the threads to turn. But it's like it has been welded on from the heat from driving my car really hard. It has cross drilled and slotted rotors with the special ceramic, Teflon, and all the things in the pads and they make a lot of heat. I stripped the Philips pattern completely round. There's an easy out bit stuck in the screw and that won't turn even though the ends are squared. The Stanley easy out kit. I don't know what to do? I tried using a drill but it barely had enough torque to get the easy out to barely grip in there and now that's stuck because the screw won't come out and I don't want to break that in there. I just want to snap the screw head off. The front rotors never even had them which only made it the biggest pain in the ass to put the rim on and line it up with the holes in the hub because the rotor would spin with the rim while trying to line everything up. Took me two hours to put one front rim on, lol
***** I drilled mine through, damaged a little bit the thread on the hub, but the bolts don't need too much torque any way. I bought a set of flat head titanium allen bolts to avoid this nightmare again.
makaroka like an idiot I wasn't thinking about the bolt being stuck and was so caught up thinking about the stripped head that I bought easy out bits and the hardest part of the bit broke off inside the bolt. I drilled it in way to far like an idiot and didn't realize because I was thinking about the thickness of the rotor and hub not realizing it is beveled so now I'm going to have fun drilling this bolt out with a easy out bit drilled into it broken flash with the hub when I got the head of the screw off to get the rotor off.
A: I would just drill out the old bolts and retap a bigger hole and use a bigger bolt
B: throw away bolts and not bother, or just have one bolt in place !
What drill did you use mate and what power? I'm stuggling like hell with my 18v combi!
I might have used a corded drill for that. No substitute for "old faithful"! I do have a Milwaukee cordless that I'm pretty happy with.
This is the question I was looking for!
Hitting a rotor including drum with a BFH is the only to get them off.A mallet won't do it
Your voice is calling as hell.
Well explained , not so easy to do! always a bastard job ! I have had my share..
There is another metheod shown by eric the car guy on this website.Take one ball been hammer with the peen side on the screw and smack that hammer with another hammer.Takes a few smacks with a hammer and you will have to hammer the screwdriver bit in.Screw comes out with no problems.I used this metheod on a Honda
@HunterCO1 Wow easy bro, relax, chill. no need for such abusive words... the guy only trying to give you an idea of a method that works, his method shows more than just how to get the screws out but it also shows how to not damage the thread.
are those cracks in those rotors?
Put some anti seize on replacement screw so you don't have it happen again.
They actually DID manage to chip one hammer but concluded in their wisdom that it didn't count. ( I have actually seen it happen)
Eric also hits brake drums with steel hammers to loosed them !
But I guess it's not worth explaining why you should not? particularly as he thinks they are made of STEEL !
thats why drilled rotors are best for track cars, NOT street cars. this will happen when you have hot rotors from normal break use, and water comes in contact with the rotors, Ie. Rain, puddles ect.. if you want performance rotors for street cars, BUY DIMPLED OR SLOTTED. NOT DRILLED.
@SuicidalLooney, I second that. To many E numbers in that chaps diet.
the rotors fucked boss, all the holes have got cracks along em, well some of em do, did u drill em urself or they come factory like that?
If you'd used a JIS screwdriver instead of a Phillips or Torq, the head would not have been stripped. Wrong tools = bad results.
That's why they call 'em "drum" brakes. You have to hit 'em.
Funny you don't need the screws the wheel holds on the rotor
CPTSauvageot perhaps, but having your rotor spin while mounting a tire with lug bolts can be challenging
@@deasttn yeah my 02 civic is lug nuts, so it should in theory be do able. Just nervous something else will give
You do not need those stupid screws, because the rotors are held by the lug nuts, those screws are used to hold the rotor during manufacture, most cars don't use them at all, when installing the rotor use one nut to hold it in place until you install the bracket over the rotor, then remove it and install the wheel just like every other car out there, common sense !!
JazzLowrider except when your car doesn't have lug nuts and your rotor spins on your hub (you'll wish you had rotor screws, then)
Mythbusters busted that never hitting two hardened surfaces.The hammers never did what the myth was saying.
I’ve been a CNC Machinist 40 yrs. use a smaller left hand direction drill, this will prevent a drill bit from any possible damage when it also removes the entire bolt from hub. NOTE: use anti seize with copper, NOT aluminum in it and this won’t happen again, along with 82* degree flat head Allen bolts. Stupid Porsche owners!!!!!
porche guys be like "this is how my mechanic does it" moving on.
Andrew Sommers I DIY almost everything, including rebuilding and painting all 4 calipers on my 911.
And as I reminded Eric, engineers NEVER hit two hardened surface together like that !!!
If you dont know why you shouln't dont do engineering type work.!
You have just proved my point. You obviously have no formal training and no understanding of Engineering.(or Physics)
There are many methods for removing both which does not cause catastrophic failure under severe working limits.
You should have completed the job. Not stopped short Do over. Thx
je veut pas être a la place de celui qui vas lui acheter sa poche
Those weren't stripped. Just use an impact screwdriver. The type you whack with a hammer. Damn shame you guys don't learn the craft a little better before you start hacking on your cars.
I swear to gawd that was the first thing I was looking for before tackling this job but the auto parts store didn't know what I was talking about. So I got all the screws out except the last one with an impact. I got to the last one and it kept braking my damn philips heads. Then it stripped.
He specifically says that he used his impact screwdriver with a philips head 4 seconds into the video....
Jae Quan Harbor Freight...they are like 9 bucks
SkiDooRydr Doesn't mean he knew how to use it! Ive never met a screw that wouldn't come out with an impact driver. But you gotta push it in and preload the spring first.
SkiDooRydr
I specifically typed that the people at the auto parts store didn't know what I was talking about. Turns out they were new hires at the time and their impact screwdrivers were out of stock anyway.
Lets not talk about any more specifics.