Best method and you may laugh but it works 100 percent, put a elastic band on screw head use drill with screwdriver 🪛 bits, the elastic band moulds it self into both surfaces
Make sure to use the slow speed high torque setting (1) on your drill when doing the extracting. Only use the high speed (2) setting for making the initial pilot hole.
In similar situations I've always found that cutting a slot with a Dremel and then using a flat head to get the screw out worked pretty well in the past.
I have used this type of tool with great success which surprised me because the screw I wanted to remove was over torqued and threadlocked into place. There are 2 things you have to do for this to be successful. 1) when using the bit to drill out the screw head, use the bit the size smaller than the recommended one then use the bit the next size up when you attempt removal. 2) use hand tools only when using the removal end of the bit. Power tools have too much immediate torque.
This takes practice... I appreciate the information very much. I was not successful today with this tool. But I want to continue to learn practice. Its very necessary IMO when working on any vehicle.
I bought a manual kit. So you use the drill to prep the stripped screw, but when extracting, you use ratchet with little bit of pressure. Worked for me. Take your time and don't over power the tools.
Never had any luck with any kind of screw extractor. They either stripped out or broke just like yours. Especially with hardened steel head bolts on my Subaru. For most non-head bolt jobs (which I refuse to even try), I use the tried-and-true Dremel method: cutting a slot in the top with the grinding disc and then turning it with a slotted screwdriver.
Wait a minute, i thought you just said --- for most non-head bolts, (you simply refuse to even try) then you go on to explain how you do them????? You either refuse to do them, or you do, do them, which is it???
@@4faxache935 Sorry, badly constructed sentence there. To clarify, I will not try to extract broken or damaged bolts from engine heads because they are hardened metal and will break the extractor. For any other kind of bolt which is NOT in an engine head -- and here I'm talking mostly about hexagonal bolts, not slotted or Philips -- I will attempt to cut a slot in the top of the bolt so that it can be turned with a slotted screwdriver.
I used that exact set a few days ago. I had to switch from the smallest extractor to the medium one. I think a difference in how I got them to work was that I was using an impact drill, and I had it go very slowly. I was also pressing very hard into the screw.
No. These are just stupid tools that don’t work. But go ahead. I’ll bet you have a nice GATOR-grip socket you swear by as well??? Let a man show you how to extract a screw
Used a similar set recently. The extraction bit with the thread was also spinning inside the screw, even when going slowly with the drill. So I then did it by hand by attaching the extraction bit to a ratchet. This worked as after a few turns it started biting and took the screw out.
@@jakemccoy you need to turn slowly by hand until it starts to get grip. The ratchet makes it easier to keep the bit in the same spot where it found grip.
I was an aircraft mechanic and I have taken lots of stripped out screws out. The best way I found was to use a speed handle with a large knob on the top with a screw driver bit holder and lean hard against the screw and bump the handle to rotate the screw out. If that doesn't work drill the center of the screw with a drill bit the correct size for the extractor bit. Snap on makes an extractor set that looks like a bolt but the shaft has the extractor. Use the speed handle with a socket that the extractor fits in and slowly turn it counter clock wise while applying a lot of pressure to make sure it digs into the metal. Snap on also makes extractors that look like drill bits but you will need a special socket that it fits into to turn it with a speed handle or rachet.
Snap On is the best you can buy virtually but sometimes hard to buy from and certainly very expensive , I`ve come to hate their new warranty also but a good tip.
Just used the Speedout (As Seen On TV) version on a bolt that the head had been cut off. The key is use a variable speed drill/driver and to go sloooowwwww with the extractor end to avoid stripping the pocket out. Both steps are done in reverse setting, at least with the Speedout version.
I’ve had the speed out set for years. I’ve had about a 75% success rate with them. In some cases they will bite and the head of the screw will twist off. Typically rusted wood screws that have been in exterior wood for years.
@@homerthompson6028 make sure when drilling out the new hole on the first step to keep the drill straight and steady. If the bit moves around, then you will create too large of a hole for the extracting side of the bit. Also make sure you have tapped it deep enough so the coned end of the bit's sides make contact in the new tapped hole. Also you need to put some force behind the drill and push down on it when you start to extract. Use a drill that has variable speed and do it slowly. You use to much power and you will likely snap the bit. If you still have tried a few times already using the same bit and still can't get it to bite then the bit may have already worn down. Do you currently have a stripped screw? If so then there are alternative methods you can try. There are other extractors that have more aggressive bite to them that you use with a hammer that applies downward force enabling a better grip. If you have a stripped screw or bolt where it still has the head on then you can use a disc grinder and cut grooves that will fit a Phillips head or a flathead and then use an impact screwdriver (I don't mean an electric impact driver or hammer drill) to loosen the stuck fastener. The impact screwdriver twists slightly when smacked with a hammer and at the same time downward force is applied by the hammer striking thus providing a better bite and less chance if slipping and stripping the fastener. Also make sure you have the right size screwdriver. An ill fitting one will just strip again.
@@bubbalo3388 thanks for that detailed info. When using the burnishing end I do push down on it but i can only get it about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down. Should I be drilling all the way down?
@@homerthompson6028 you just need to drill down as deep as possible so you can get as much of the extracting cone end in there to twist and grab onto the sides. The more you can get it there then the less chances of it slipping. But be careful to go so deep that you detach the head of the screw. Apply some force behind it during the "extraction part of the process" to help it dig in. Otherwise it will likely spin and strip. Other reasons this may not work is the screw is in there just to tight and made of too soft an alloy.
Wow, thank you so much for doing this! No matter what I watch or read or try, I can't get these things to work. (Even trying the belittling "corrections" that some commenters post.) Great video, this and your follow up. Ignore any cutting comments from the know-it-all-but-never-actually-tried-themselves crowd. This is a great, real use video and appreciated by real folks like me just trying to make these things work when we really need them!
I have an old set of Craftsman (back when Craftsman still made good stuff) extractors but never used them...until two weeks ago. I simply took a 3/32" drill bit and drilled into the broken 1/4-20 bolt, then removed it with the extractor. Worked like a charm.
Craftsman had the same system before they were made in China and had similar results. I went and bought a what I would call a traditional screw extractor set. I have used these in the past. They take a little longer but are tried and true and work
My granddaughter called me last week about stripped screws. I told her bring it over and I would look at it. Took out my new set of screw extractors, which I bought a few years ago, and I was admased how fast I extracted that stripped screw.
I've been using these type of screw extractors for years and years, one thing I have noticed the extractor end works better when the electric screwdriver is put on low.
Some things may have been done better 1. Drill a hole in the screw head first 2. Use a bigger extractor bit 3. Go very slow on rotation but with as much pressure as possible applied on the screw !! Go counterclockwise from the start.
I usually go straight to the extractor side and test it by hand. Turn counter clockwise and if the bit "bites" you should be able to try it. I will also sometimes lightly tap the end of the bit with a hammer (not if they are double-sided like these obvi) then lock the bit into the drill. Use firm pressure and SLOWLY use the drill in reverse. If it starts slipping stop as it's pointless at that point. I do sometimes use the drilling end if I need to. I also deal with screws that have had locktite on them so I use my heatgun to soften up the locktite.
Use a cutting wheel on a rotary drill to cut a thick enough slot on the head. Then apply slow even pressure with a flat head driver to remove the stripped screw. These screw extractors are made with hardened steel, but are really brittle. You'll have to apply your drill a lot less aggressively to have success with these bits.
@@bikersoncall 0:36..if the hand rail was installed by the "previous owner", who's to say the current owner wants it? He removed it to repaint the bathroom. So my thinking is that it's junk anyway.
@@robertlee4172 Shrugs... I thought it looked like some pretty quality Chrome, I'm a pack rat, I'd not have wanted to damage it, but yeah, he may not be, hard to say.
@@bikersoncall Ha! I looked again, the rail is located next to a toilet. The previous owner put that rail there, for to use after doing his business. Then comes the paper work. (wiping his bum bum) Not exactly something I'd want to keep, knowing that it was used in that way. It kinda creeps me out.
A couple of pro tips if I may. #1 use a regular drill bit to start with so you dont prematurely wear out the drill bit end. #2 ALWAYS go straight in, trying to remove on an angle well break your extractor 9 times out of 10. #3 make sure that you drill deep enough. If your hole is wider than the part of the extractor you have in the hole it will not grab. #4 there are less expensive brands that work just as good condition if not better.
Have used large enough drill bit to remove screw head first. Then removed piece from wall. Removed remaining screw with vise grip. Works every time. Patch spot and all good.
I have used the "Grabit" screw extractors which I believe were the first of this kind of screw extractors with excellent results. One thing I've learned with all screw extractors is to use the largest size that can possibly work.
I am glad I am not the only one not able to extract a stripped screw using these extractors. I was doubting if I did not know how to use it. I am going to try the dremel and screwdriver method.
Well, I bought the DeWalt double sided scre extractor kit and it was a terrible disappointment. They failed to remove my screws from the deck floors. Much improvement is needed in this particular tool
2 things, use the easy outs by hand no power tools and another option is to use a drill bit drill off the screw head,remove the handbar,then use vise grips to remove the rest of the screw.
Yes, that last option has often worked for me. Unless the screw was too tight in the wood (because of the bore hole being too narrow) then the vise grip just turns the bit that sticks out to pulp. Teaches one not to buy cheap screws 😁
Just bought the Hercules set from Harbor Freight last night and was able to get 8 bolts removed. Was pleasantly surprised 1 bit lasted through all 8. Crisis averted.
I'm sorry my dude but noticing that this set is designed for an impact driver and then using them in a drill on the high speed/low torque setting warrants the removal of your expert credentials.
I tried one of those on a crankshaft seal retainer bolt on an aircraft engine. I had to do it through one of the prop stud holes. When it snapped I had no choice but to drill out the extractor and try something else. It took 4.5 hours to drill out the extractor and burned up about 20 #30 cobalt drill bits. It was a different brand (Grabbit) but same tool. Once the extractor was removed I ended up drilling the hole oversize for a Helicoil. Worked perfect in the end. Moral for me was to not use those on anything without a second possible option. I invested in some Vampliers, too.
On your broken bit, you have to go straight in. Your other option is to use a bigger drill bit to remove the head of the screw. Thank you for the flashback! Keep up the good work.
Good point, a bit extension would be in order. Definitely puts the wrong kind of tension on the project using an angle, triples the force needed, almost has not choice but to snap the end off.
@@jakemccoy without the screw head you can just pull it out. you can always replace that screw with a new one so there's no point keeping the old one. The other way is just to saw the head off or cut a vertical line and use flat head driver
- Same experience here with that kind of extractor kit. Not that there are much instructions on how exactly to use it. - There is also a trick worth trying where you press a rubber band in the screw head so that your screwdriver has more grip. - In the end, I usually end up using a saw and/or pliers in those situations.
I think the idea of the drilling part is good because you could always make a small rectangle shade with the smaller ones a try with a flat head screw driver to remove the screw
I havn't watched the follow up video yet, I'll do that next, but I'm really surprised more people have not said that an extension should have been used to hit the screw straight on.
I've used those to remove screws that were stuck in studs too, and my biggest take away was, if there's not adequate pressure being applied to the drill while turning the bit, the sharpest point of the edge can get caught in the wrong groove and break just like that, also if drill and bit are not completely level that could break it too!
Another option is to use a small set of locking pliers and with an ultra tight grip, counterclockwise twist and remove and you could have used a chisel to break of the handle frame mount by pounding and breaking around the screw mounts.
Best method and you may laugh but it works 100 percent, put a elastic band on screw head use drill with screwdriver 🪛 bits, the elastic band moulds it self into both surfaces
I bought a really cheap Amazon chinesium set and they have worked great many many times. Non have sheared like that. They have saved so much time so they do work.
I've used my set (different brand but looks the same) many times since I bought them some 15+ years ago. I can't think of a time when they failed me but I don't think I've come across quite the same challenge, those screws were pretty long and stuck. Also my drill is an impact drill which could make all the difference.
I would have thought if anything an impact driver would be a lot harder on the bit these DeWalt bits were probably manufactured in China which isnt known for its quality control lol
I just used my screw extractor kit on a ton of outdoor screws on my porch and it worked most of the time. You need to make a deeper hole with the first step before putting in the thread thread bit to attempt extraction. This is what I learned. I had Irwin brand.
If the screw is perfectly strait and your trying to extract it in an angle , the extractor will break. Before doing this try putting valve grinding compound on the tip of the screw driver ( this gives more grip ) to the tip , and a lot of pressure while trying to turn the screw . Surprised only seen these problems when the screw is installed in metal.
I would recommend an extension so you can get straight on and if needed, try a hammerdrill, which would add impact. There are also hammer impacts made for things like this. Metal on.meral grip is tough! I bet the ones that would not come out are long screws. Not sure what to say there. Maybe another possibility would be put a soldering iron on it right before trying to reverse it. Best of luck!
I have a couple of "Easy-Outs" that I've had for years. I use them from time-to-time and, so far, they've been fine. Easy-Outs are longer extractor screws and drilling a hole in the broken screw or bolt is your problem. The Easy-Outs have square end for use with a spanner (not a drill) when extracting.
You need to treat the extractor as a tap, which after all is what it is, albeit a tapered left hand one. Never failed with mine. Use them properly and I hope you have success.
This has been experience as well. I have tried these kits are others like it and have NEVER had it work. I consider myself pretty handy. While my bit didn't break< they never got any bite what so ever.
If you have enough of the damaged screw sticking out, then use a set of locking pliers (a.k.a. "vise grips") to grab a hold and unscrew. It's a bit tedious, but it works most of the time.
I haven't had much luck with anyone's screw extractors but maybe I just need to work on my technique. What I have found that sometimes works is to shove the tip of a Phillips-head screwdriver into the hole and give the screwdriver a decent tap with a hammer. That will often dent the screw material enough for the tip to grab and allow extraction to get started. That also works with painted-in screws. And, once the head is part-ways out you can grab it with a decent set of pliers and rotate it out. (I can hear people complaining that you shouldn't hit a screwdriver with a hammer, but desperate times call for desperate measures. I'll also use a screwdriver to open a can of paint.)
We use the Pro-Grabit (I think owned by Snap-On) in the aerospace industry all the time. The cutting side wears out pretty fast. Also you have to use LOW speed on the extractor side, preferably with the clutch set around 12-15. You can also use a crescent wrench to break the screw free. I see you did an updated video, so hopefully you've since learned how to use the tool correctly
@yifan8042 we use the Irwin Hanson stubby extractors almost every day, never seen their grabit-style ones. Even use Ezy-Outs still on occasion. Why are you being weird?
@@cryangallegos am i being weird? or just simply pointing out the fact that certain group of people just automatically assumed anything good was owned by snap on. i think someone in the comment section just did that, I don't know, maybe just me being weird. oh, by the way, if the term of "snap on die hard fan boys" offensed you, I apologize for that. but yea, I call the group of people mentioned above as snap on die hard fan boys.
Had the same experience with cheaper screw extractors even though I manually operated the extractor . I drilled the whole screw head away and the part came off then I used a plier to unscrew the stub(in my case I needed to replace the damaged screws with good ones). I've heard of a way extraction works is to drill a hole, use a screw tap with reverse threads and then screw a reverse thread screw, using it to take out the original screw. It's complicated but worth it on expensive stuff.
I think the reason it broke was because the angle you were on. Think about it. Once it turn 180 degrees it would have to be on a equal angle in the opposite direction. You know. Downward into the part.
Sometimes the drilling end of the bit alone provides enough bite to remove the screw depending on how stuck in it is. Thanks for the video though, was interesting to see how these Dewalt bits perform 👌🏻
I had a set similar to this, different brand, that I purchased at Lowes. It was "guaranteed" to work. I had the same problem that you had with the smaller bits. I am working under a truck in a very confined space and still haven't been able to get it out. 😥
Drill a hole in clockwise direction first, then flip the bit over and undo screw in reverse gear.I do it this way all time and has never let me down yet.
A couple times in the past year I’ve drilled stripped screw heads, hammered in a torx bit and backed them out- discovered this in desperation and started backing the screw out by hand. It works & it’s a lot cheaper. Oh and I also keep 1/8LH drill bits in my bag of tricks
@@simonz4936 you’d be surprised how many products are made in china but sold as a “assembled in US” product that people swear by their great quality. I sell central AC units assembled by Kenmore but made in china. No complaints from customers. 😂
I think if you had used an extension for the drill/extractor to clear the side of the bar and go at it straight instead of doing it at an angle it most likely would not have broken.
First drill into the screw with the first part of the bit, then immediately use next size up of the opposite extractor side of the bit, see if that works
If I have a screw that is protruding a bit I often try to clamp the drill chuck directly onto the stew head. It has to be sticking out more than these ones though
I have a set of Grabit extractors from years ago. Exact same thing as these. They work maybe 1/2 the time. I usually end up squaring off the head of the screw with a Dremel, then use a vice grips to extract.
I've pretty much given up on screw extractors. Now I just drill out the head of the screw. Once the hardware is removed there is enough screw body sticking out of the wall to work on one way or another.
I got the milwaukee ones. The #2 drill bit side actually sheared on the first go at low speed. Had to use an actual titanium nitride drill bit to properly drill the hole. The #2 extractor held up though, but who knows how long it’ll hold up in future use. I guess like all bits these are expendable and consumable tools
I can confirm those experiences. I encountered the same thing while trying to get a screw out from a split-system aircon cover. You didn't do anything wrong actually.
Dremel tool with the zip blade, use it to make a slot all the way across screw head and use flathead screw driver to remove. Works most of the time, if that fails, 8lb sledge will take the screw Sheetrock and stud out perfectly.
I specifically used the Speedout version today and it was 50/50 for working or just ripping the head off the screws. These were old screws that were a bit rusty.
A lot of times you can jamb a square drive bit in the stripped out screw head with presuure and slowly extract it or cut a notch with a multitool and use a flat screw driver to remove.
I bought a no-name extractor like this a few years ago, as I had a similar situation, except the screw I was trying to remove had its whole head broken off. This was for a screw that holds the valve stem system for a shower. I drilled a hole & then tried it, but it did not work. I really only have a drill that is over 15 years old that runs on battery, but it seemed it did not have the power to remove the screw. And my much older drill from the 1970's that runs with power cord only rotated clockwise. To this day that broken screw is still there. We can afford to not remove it because our shower stall has 2 shower heads so we are only using the one shower head that works. But I will eventually try to get this repaired. And I was working on it without having had to turn the water off.
If the head is sticking out enough, you can tighten the drill itself onto the screw and then put the drill in reverse to take out the screw. It will work with a screw that us just stripped, or one thT the head has snapped off. You just have to have enough of the screw out for the drill to grab. That has saved me many times.
Gen Expert, ty for Video great job, I also bought same bits form HD. To remove screws on my porch deck and it basically tore the heads off the screw & eventually broke just like yours. So had to revert to old fashion elbow grease, chiseling, hacksaw and Dremel, I was disappointed to say the lease!
I've never had any luck with any extractor, and I've bought a fair few in my time. But sometimes, if you are going to have to drill the head off anyway, use a left-handed twist drill. This often extracts the screw as it bites into the metal. Well, it does for me, anyway. YMMV 🙂
AN UPDATE TO THIS VIDEO IS HERE: ua-cam.com/video/pq7EdO3fWgk/v-deo.html
Best method and you may laugh but it works 100 percent, put a elastic band on screw head use drill with screwdriver 🪛 bits, the elastic band moulds it self into both surfaces
ЭТУ БИТУ ЗАКОЛИЛИ И ПРИ 200% НЕ ОТПУСКАЛИ СЭКОНОМИЛИ ВОТ ОНА И СЛОМАЛАСЬ ПОТОМУЧТО ХРУПКАЯ
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Make sure to use the slow speed high torque setting (1) on your drill when doing the extracting. Only use the high speed (2) setting for making the initial pilot hole.
skillz !!!!
In similar situations I've always found that cutting a slot with a Dremel and then using a flat head to get the screw out worked pretty well in the past.
Still works to this day actually
@@LeonCameroEven today?
Explain how you cut the slot with a dremel.
@@OsaculnenolajOThis ceased to work on August 17, 2022.
@@caseyclausen2627 Damn that's rough.
I have used this type of tool with great success which surprised me because the screw I wanted to remove was over torqued and threadlocked into place. There are 2 things you have to do for this to be successful. 1) when using the bit to drill out the screw head, use the bit the size smaller than the recommended one then use the bit the next size up when you attempt removal. 2) use hand tools only when using the removal end of the bit. Power tools have too much immediate torque.
Yes
This takes practice... I appreciate the information very much. I was not successful today with this tool. But I want to continue to learn practice. Its very necessary IMO when working on any vehicle.
Use left-hand drill bits work's every time.
I had the very same results...now I know I'm not the only one this happens to. Thanks!
Ditto here. Was very disappointed ...
Left hand drill bit😉 works well.
I bought a manual kit. So you use the drill to prep the stripped screw, but when extracting, you use ratchet with little bit of pressure. Worked for me. Take your time and don't over power the tools.
Там на упаковке импакт нарисован,разве это ручной комплект?
that's an honest review, there's not much of thoses on internet. so here's a upvote and a comment to pump it up!
Never had any luck with any kind of screw extractor. They either stripped out or broke just like yours. Especially with hardened steel head bolts on my Subaru. For most non-head bolt jobs (which I refuse to even try), I use the tried-and-true Dremel method: cutting a slot in the top with the grinding disc and then turning it with a slotted screwdriver.
Same here
Yep, this method has never failed me.
Wait a minute, i thought you just said --- for most non-head bolts, (you simply refuse to even try) then you go on to explain how you do them?????
You either refuse to do them, or you do, do them, which is it???
@@4faxache935 Sorry, badly constructed sentence there. To clarify, I will not try to extract broken or damaged bolts from engine heads because they are hardened metal and will break the extractor. For any other kind of bolt which is NOT in an engine head -- and here I'm talking mostly about hexagonal bolts, not slotted or Philips -- I will attempt to cut a slot in the top of the bolt so that it can be turned with a slotted screwdriver.
Always the same shit
I used that exact set a few days ago. I had to switch from the smallest extractor to the medium one. I think a difference in how I got them to work was that I was using an impact drill, and I had it go very slowly. I was also pressing very hard into the screw.
Pretty sure the instant shock from a single speed setting was the culprit. Needs to be used at slow speed with variable speed drill.
Yes
No. These are just stupid tools that don’t work. But go ahead. I’ll bet you have a nice GATOR-grip socket you swear by as well???
Let a man show you how to extract a screw
Pretty sure anyone who is “pretty sure” is “pretty wrong”
You have no clue
They work very well when used properly
Used a similar set recently. The extraction bit with the thread was also spinning inside the screw, even when going slowly with the drill. So I then did it by hand by attaching the extraction bit to a ratchet. This worked as after a few turns it started biting and took the screw out.
I am not understanding how the ratchet will magically make the bit grab.
@@jakemccoy forgot to mention you also need to cast the special spell.
@@harpoon2445 That worked, thanks.
@@jakemccoy you need to turn slowly by hand until it starts to get grip. The ratchet makes it easier to keep the bit in the same spot where it found grip.
This worked for me, the bit atached to a drill just spun like crazy. With a manual scredriver with 1/4 shank did the job. Sorry for my english.
I was an aircraft mechanic and I have taken lots of stripped out screws out. The best way I found was to use a speed handle with a large knob on the top with a screw driver bit holder and lean hard against the screw and bump the handle to rotate the screw out. If that doesn't work drill the center of the screw with a drill bit the correct size for the extractor bit. Snap on makes an extractor set that looks like a bolt but the shaft has the extractor. Use the speed handle with a socket that the extractor fits in and slowly turn it counter clock wise while applying a lot of pressure to make sure it digs into the metal. Snap on also makes extractors that look like drill bits but you will need a special socket that it fits into to turn it with a speed handle or rachet.
Snap On is the best you can buy virtually but sometimes hard to buy from and certainly very expensive , I`ve come to hate their new warranty also but a good tip.
I am (amateur) so glad that you (professional) have the same problems with the tool!
Just used the Speedout (As Seen On TV) version on a bolt that the head had been cut off. The key is use a variable speed drill/driver and to go sloooowwwww with the extractor end to avoid stripping the pocket out. Both steps are done in reverse setting, at least with the Speedout version.
I’ve had the speed out set for years. I’ve had about a 75% success rate with them. In some cases they will bite and the head of the screw will twist off. Typically rusted wood screws that have been in exterior wood for years.
I have the Speedout kit. I can never get a bite, what am I doing wrong?
@@homerthompson6028 make sure when drilling out the new hole on the first step to keep the drill straight and steady. If the bit moves around, then you will create too large of a hole for the extracting side of the bit. Also make sure you have tapped it deep enough so the coned end of the bit's sides make contact in the new tapped hole. Also you need to put some force behind the drill and push down on it when you start to extract. Use a drill that has variable speed and do it slowly. You use to much power and you will likely snap the bit.
If you still have tried a few times already using the same bit and still can't get it to bite then the bit may have already worn down.
Do you currently have a stripped screw? If so then there are alternative methods you can try. There are other extractors that have more aggressive bite to them that you use with a hammer that applies downward force enabling a better grip.
If you have a stripped screw or bolt where it still has the head on then you can use a disc grinder and cut grooves that will fit a Phillips head or a flathead and then use an impact screwdriver (I don't mean an electric impact driver or hammer drill) to loosen the stuck fastener. The impact screwdriver twists slightly when smacked with a hammer and at the same time downward force is applied by the hammer striking thus providing a better bite and less chance if slipping and stripping the fastener. Also make sure you have the right size screwdriver. An ill fitting one will just strip again.
@@bubbalo3388 thanks for that detailed info. When using the burnishing end I do push down on it but i can only get it about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down. Should I be drilling all the way down?
@@homerthompson6028 you just need to drill down as deep as possible so you can get as much of the extracting cone end in there to twist and grab onto the sides. The more you can get it there then the less chances of it slipping. But be careful to go so deep that you detach the head of the screw.
Apply some force behind it during the "extraction part of the process" to help it dig in. Otherwise it will likely spin and strip.
Other reasons this may not work is the screw is in there just to tight and made of too soft an alloy.
Wow, thank you so much for doing this! No matter what I watch or read or try, I can't get these things to work. (Even trying the belittling "corrections" that some commenters post.) Great video, this and your follow up. Ignore any cutting comments from the know-it-all-but-never-actually-tried-themselves crowd. This is a great, real use video and appreciated by real folks like me just trying to make these things work when we really need them!
I have an old set of Craftsman (back when Craftsman still made good stuff) extractors but never used them...until two weeks ago. I simply took a 3/32" drill bit and drilled into the broken 1/4-20 bolt, then removed it with the extractor. Worked like a charm.
Meant to be used with an impact driver at low torque setting
It actually says it on the packaging..🤔🤔🤔
Sounds almost obvious
Exactly what I was going to comment. Improper use of tool. #2 on a cordless drill is meant for drilling not screwing, nevermind extraction.
A bad workman always blames his tools 🤫
I find it quite entertaining, the number of people who post videos as supposed experts, who then prove they are winging it!
One of the more honest displays even if his technique wasn’t perfect.
Craftsman had the same system before they were made in China and had similar results. I went and bought a what I would call a traditional screw extractor set. I have used these in the past. They take a little longer but are tried and true and work
After a few initial failed attempts, and watching this video I was discouraged, but this exact set did end up working for me! 🙌🏻
My granddaughter called me last week about stripped screws. I told her bring it over and I would look at it. Took out my new set of screw extractors, which I bought a few years ago, and I was admased how fast I extracted that stripped screw.
I've been using these type of screw extractors for years and years, one thing I have noticed the extractor end works better when the electric screwdriver is put on low.
My number one go to tool is a pressure plyer. My mvp of tools.
Some things may have been done better
1. Drill a hole in the screw head first
2. Use a bigger extractor bit
3. Go very slow on rotation but with as much pressure as possible applied on the screw
!! Go counterclockwise from the start.
Now that sums up my experience with every dewalt product I had
I was about 1 for 8 on those today. Never had luck with these types of extractors.
I usually go straight to the extractor side and test it by hand. Turn counter clockwise and if the bit "bites" you should be able to try it. I will also sometimes lightly tap the end of the bit with a hammer (not if they are double-sided like these obvi) then lock the bit into the drill. Use firm pressure and SLOWLY use the drill in reverse. If it starts slipping stop as it's pointless at that point. I do sometimes use the drilling end if I need to.
I also deal with screws that have had locktite on them so I use my heatgun to soften up the locktite.
Use a cutting wheel on a rotary drill to cut a thick enough slot on the head. Then apply slow even pressure with a flat head driver to remove the stripped screw.
These screw extractors are made with hardened steel, but are really brittle. You'll have to apply your drill a lot less aggressively to have success with these bits.
No problem, then throw away the grabrail. shrugs...
@@bikersoncall
0:36..if the hand rail was installed by the "previous owner", who's to say the current owner wants it? He removed it to repaint the bathroom. So my thinking is that it's junk anyway.
@@robertlee4172 Shrugs... I thought it
looked like some pretty quality Chrome,
I'm a pack rat, I'd not have wanted to
damage it, but yeah, he may not be,
hard to say.
@@bikersoncall
Ha! I looked again, the rail is located next to a toilet. The previous owner put that rail there, for to use after doing his business. Then comes the paper work. (wiping his bum bum) Not exactly something I'd want to keep, knowing that it was used in that way.
It kinda creeps me out.
used the exact same method to unscrew small allen screw that would break the allen keys
I used a thick rubber band over screw head and manual screwdriver. Old school but grips well and works almost every time.
A couple of pro tips if I may.
#1 use a regular drill bit to start with so you dont prematurely wear out the drill bit end.
#2 ALWAYS go straight in, trying to remove on an angle well break your extractor 9 times out of 10.
#3 make sure that you drill deep enough. If your hole is wider than the part of the extractor you have in the hole it will not grab.
#4 there are less expensive brands that work just as good condition if not better.
Great tips. Thank you!
#5 Don't buy trash !
Have used large enough drill bit to remove screw head first. Then removed piece from wall. Removed remaining screw with vise grip. Works every time. Patch spot and all good.
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When that bit broke.!!! Omfg I'm dying... so unexpected its hilarious 😂🤣😂
🤣
Slow n steady tapping, I lernt the hard way to.
Wow.. your every easily entertained!
I laughed so hard at that.... 🤣😂😭
I literally laughed out loud when that happened too 🤣😂🤣
I have used the "Grabit" screw extractors which I believe were the first of this kind of screw extractors with excellent results. One thing I've learned with all screw extractors is to use the largest size that can possibly work.
I am glad I am not the only one not able to extract a stripped screw using these extractors. I was doubting if I did not know how to use it. I am going to try the dremel and screwdriver method.
Well, I bought the DeWalt double sided scre extractor kit and it was a terrible disappointment. They failed to remove my screws from the deck floors. Much improvement is needed in this particular tool
2 things, use the easy outs by hand no power tools and another option is to use a drill bit drill off the screw head,remove the handbar,then use vise grips to remove the rest of the screw.
Yes, that last option has often worked for me. Unless the screw was too tight in the wood (because of the bore hole being too narrow) then the vise grip just turns the bit that sticks out to pulp. Teaches one not to buy cheap screws 😁
Just bought the Hercules set from Harbor Freight last night and was able to get 8 bolts removed. Was pleasantly surprised 1 bit lasted through all 8. Crisis averted.
I'm sorry my dude but noticing that this set is designed for an impact driver and then using them in a drill on the high speed/low torque setting warrants the removal of your expert credentials.
I used to drill a hole, then hammer in a torx bit and use an impactor to get the screws out
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You should note that the bits are specifically marketed for use with an impact driver, not a drill.
Good advice 😉
I think an impact driver would’ve shattered it too considering bits and materials not meant for impacts tend to shatter or brake from the torque.
If it didn’t have the strength to stand up to this drill the torque of the impact driver would’ve definitely shattered it
@@TheChupacabra well said 👍
My directions say to use the extractor end on the lowest/slowest setting. Your burst method seems to have exceeded specifications.
I tried one of those on a crankshaft seal retainer bolt on an aircraft engine. I had to do it through one of the prop stud holes. When it snapped I had no choice but to drill out the extractor and try something else. It took 4.5 hours to drill out the extractor and burned up about 20 #30 cobalt drill bits. It was a different brand (Grabbit) but same tool. Once the extractor was removed I ended up drilling the hole oversize for a Helicoil. Worked perfect in the end. Moral for me was to not use those on anything without a second possible option. I invested in some Vampliers, too.
Had the same experience here. Never used these shit extractors ever again.
Great fun to watch your spontaneous comments. Thank you
On your broken bit, you have to go straight in. Your other option is to use a bigger drill bit to remove the head of the screw. Thank you for the flashback! Keep up the good work.
Good point, a bit extension would be in order.
Definitely puts the wrong kind of tension on the
project using an angle, triples the force needed,
almost has not choice but to snap the end off.
Remove the head of the screw, why?
@@jakemccoy without the screw head you can just pull it out. you can always replace that screw with a new one so there's no point keeping the old one. The other way is just to saw the head off or cut a vertical line and use flat head driver
- Same experience here with that kind of extractor kit. Not that there are much instructions on how exactly to use it.
- There is also a trick worth trying where you press a rubber band in the screw head so that your screwdriver has more grip.
- In the end, I usually end up using a saw and/or pliers in those situations.
I think the idea of the drilling part is good because you could always make a small rectangle shade with the smaller ones a try with a flat head screw driver to remove the screw
I havn't watched the follow up video yet, I'll do that next, but I'm really surprised more people have not said that an extension should have been used to hit the screw straight on.
Good to know of these bits. But I guess the easier way would have been to saw in a new slit (using a rotary tool) and then use the usual screw driver.
Or a hack saw or just a hack saw blade. And use a straight blade screwdriver with a lot of weight or pressure on it, so it doesn’t slip out.
I've used those to remove screws that were stuck in studs too, and my biggest take away was, if there's not adequate pressure being applied to the drill while turning the bit, the sharpest point of the edge can get caught in the wrong groove and break just like that, also if drill and bit are not completely level that could break it too!
Another option is to use a small set of locking pliers and with an ultra tight grip, counterclockwise twist and remove and you could have used a chisel to break of the handle frame mount by pounding and breaking around the screw mounts.
Best method and you may laugh but it works 100 percent, put a elastic band on screw head use drill with screwdriver 🪛 bits, the elastic band moulds it self into both surfaces
@@pauliepaul3697 this sometimes works, but not always. It usually works really well with Robertson head screws.
@@IamACanadian47 bullet proof method use thin grinding disc and grind slot on top of screw then use a flat top screw driver
Ding ding ding
I bought a really cheap Amazon chinesium set and they have worked great many many times. Non have sheared like that. They have saved so much time so they do work.
I've used my set (different brand but looks the same) many times since I bought them some 15+ years ago. I can't think of a time when they failed me but I don't think I've come across quite the same challenge, those screws were pretty long and stuck. Also my drill is an impact drill which could make all the difference.
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I would have thought if anything an impact driver would be a lot harder on the bit these DeWalt bits were probably manufactured in China which isnt known for its quality control lol
I just used my screw extractor kit on a ton of outdoor screws on my porch and it worked most of the time. You need to make a deeper hole with the first step before putting in the thread thread bit to attempt extraction. This is what I learned. I had Irwin brand.
If the screw is perfectly strait and your trying to extract it in an angle , the extractor will break. Before doing this try putting valve grinding compound on the tip of the screw driver ( this gives more grip ) to the tip , and a lot of pressure while trying to turn the screw . Surprised only seen these problems when the screw is installed in metal.
Strait ye?
Like the straits of gibralter like?
Some people I believe call these "easy outs"? In any case, this was what I needed. Thanks for posting.
I would recommend an extension so you can get straight on and if needed, try a hammerdrill, which would add impact. There are also hammer impacts made for things like this. Metal on.meral grip is tough! I bet the ones that would not come out are long screws. Not sure what to say there. Maybe another possibility would be put a soldering iron on it right before trying to reverse it. Best of luck!
What kind of extension? Could you link a good extension to use?
@@astevenson82 They're called an arbour
I have a couple of "Easy-Outs" that I've had for years. I use them from time-to-time and, so far, they've been fine.
Easy-Outs are longer extractor screws and drilling a hole in the broken screw or bolt is your problem. The Easy-Outs have square end for use with a spanner (not a drill) when extracting.
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You need to treat the extractor as a tap, which after all is what it is, albeit a tapered left hand one. Never failed with mine. Use them properly and I hope you have success.
This has been experience as well. I have tried these kits are others like it and have NEVER had it work. I consider myself pretty handy. While my bit didn't break< they never got any bite what so ever.
If you have enough of the damaged screw sticking out, then use a set of locking pliers (a.k.a. "vise grips") to grab a hold and unscrew. It's a bit tedious, but it works most of the time.
I really wow'd the guys at work with that trick
I haven't had much luck with anyone's screw extractors but maybe I just need to work on my technique. What I have found that sometimes works is to shove the tip of a Phillips-head screwdriver into the hole and give the screwdriver a decent tap with a hammer. That will often dent the screw material enough for the tip to grab and allow extraction to get started. That also works with painted-in screws. And, once the head is part-ways out you can grab it with a decent set of pliers and rotate it out. (I can hear people complaining that you shouldn't hit a screwdriver with a hammer, but desperate times call for desperate measures. I'll also use a screwdriver to open a can of paint.)
We use the Pro-Grabit (I think owned by Snap-On) in the aerospace industry all the time. The cutting side wears out pretty fast. Also you have to use LOW speed on the extractor side, preferably with the clutch set around 12-15. You can also use a crescent wrench to break the screw free.
I see you did an updated video, so hopefully you've since learned how to use the tool correctly
lol the snap on itself was made by IRWIN HANSON.. god I love how these snap on die hard fan boys making everthing a snap on.
@yifan8042 we use the Irwin Hanson stubby extractors almost every day, never seen their grabit-style ones. Even use Ezy-Outs still on occasion. Why are you being weird?
@@cryangallegos am i being weird? or just simply pointing out the fact that certain group of people just automatically assumed anything good was owned by snap on. i think someone in the comment section just did that, I don't know, maybe just me being weird. oh, by the way, if the term of "snap on die hard fan boys" offensed you, I apologize for that. but yea, I call the group of people mentioned above as snap on die hard fan boys.
Had the same experience with cheaper screw extractors even though I manually operated the extractor . I drilled the whole screw head away and the part came off then I used a plier to unscrew the stub(in my case I needed to replace the damaged screws with good ones). I've heard of a way extraction works is to drill a hole, use a screw tap with reverse threads and then screw a reverse thread screw, using it to take out the original screw. It's complicated but worth it on expensive stuff.
I think the reason it broke was because the angle you were on. Think about it. Once it turn 180 degrees it would have to be on a equal angle in the opposite direction. You know. Downward into the part.
When that bit broke that was the funniest thing that has happened to me today.
Thanks.
I love seeing vids of how to use tools incorrectly.
So tell us how. They don't work all the time!
snap on versions of these tools work so well, worth the money. they bite when other tools strip out, lose grip or break
Sometimes the drilling end of the bit alone provides enough bite to remove the screw depending on how stuck in it is.
Thanks for the video though, was interesting to see how these Dewalt bits perform 👌🏻
I am SHOCKED that thing broke on the first try! I have always thought I should get a set of these hummm
I had a set similar to this, different brand, that I purchased at Lowes. It was "guaranteed" to work. I had the same problem that you had with the smaller bits. I am working under a truck in a very confined space and still haven't been able to get it out. 😥
Try to hammer in a torx bit and use a wretched not a powertool
Drill a hole in clockwise direction first, then flip the bit over and undo screw in reverse gear.I do it this way all time and has never let me down yet.
For those you need to drill all the way with the cutting end before trying to extract
So he did not drill deep enough with the first side of the drill bit?
A couple times in the past year I’ve drilled stripped screw heads, hammered in a torx bit and backed them out- discovered this in desperation and started backing the screw out by hand. It works & it’s a lot cheaper. Oh and I also keep 1/8LH drill bits in my bag of tricks
Seen that tip on GCN.
@@Bungle2010 didn’t think I was the only Neanderthal inventing fire
How about hammering in a cut nail, I did that years ago back when there were nails….
On the package it looked like you're supposed to use an impact on it
I had the same experience. They worked on 1 screws out of 5 on a deck. Typically they just wouldn’t bite.
This worked for me honestly on 7 stripped screws in my house. I guess it’s hit or miss, but it worked for me.
Thank China, always best quality with reasonable price 😂
surprisingly
hahaha your emotional icon at the end of comment is the answer yeeeeeahhha best like @gili nothing is original these days always asia shit ~
Actually it is the best quality for the price, you buy cheap, you get cheap
China makes you what you pay them for. You pay them good money they make you good stuff. You paid them cheap, they make you cheap stuff
@@simonz4936 you’d be surprised how many products are made in china but sold as a “assembled in US” product that people swear by their great quality. I sell central AC units assembled by Kenmore but made in china. No complaints from customers. 😂
I think if you had used an extension for the drill/extractor to clear the side of the bar and go at it straight instead of doing it at an angle it most likely would not have broken.
First drill into the screw with the first part of the bit, then immediately use next size up of the opposite extractor side of the bit, see if that works
If I have a screw that is protruding a bit I often try to clamp the drill chuck directly onto the stew head. It has to be sticking out more than these ones though
You can also use a torx bit and hammer it down inside the hole and turn it with a wrench if screw extractors don't work
I have a set of Grabit extractors from years ago. Exact same thing as these. They work maybe 1/2 the time. I usually end up squaring off the head of the screw with a Dremel, then use a vice grips to extract.
I've pretty much given up on screw extractors. Now I just drill out the head of the screw. Once the hardware is removed there is enough screw body sticking out of the wall to work on one way or another.
Also ive put the extracter bit in the hole tapped it with a hammer,worked for me.
I got the milwaukee ones. The #2 drill bit side actually sheared on the first go at low speed. Had to use an actual titanium nitride drill bit to properly drill the hole. The #2 extractor held up though, but who knows how long it’ll hold up in future use. I guess like all bits these are expendable and consumable tools
I can confirm those experiences. I encountered the same thing while trying to get a screw out from a split-system aircon cover. You didn't do anything wrong actually.
Dremel tool with the zip blade, use it to make a slot all the way across screw head and use flathead screw driver to remove. Works most of the time, if that fails, 8lb sledge will take the screw Sheetrock and stud out perfectly.
I specifically used the Speedout version today and it was 50/50 for working or just ripping the head off the screws. These were old screws that were a bit rusty.
A lot of times you can jamb a square drive bit in the stripped out screw head with presuure and slowly extract it or cut a notch with a multitool and use a flat screw driver to remove.
This was funny 😂 I thought this should be interesting and then the bit broke and then it became hilarious🤣 Well done.
I bought a no-name extractor like this a few years ago, as I had a similar situation, except the screw I was trying to remove had its whole head broken off. This was for a screw that holds the valve stem system for a shower. I drilled a hole & then tried it, but it did not work. I really only have a drill that is over 15 years old that runs on battery, but it seemed it did not have the power to remove the screw. And my much older drill from the 1970's that runs with power cord only rotated clockwise. To this day that broken screw is still there. We can afford to not remove it because our shower stall has 2 shower heads so we are only using the one shower head that works. But I will eventually try to get this repaired. And I was working on it without having had to turn the water off.
I had the same results as you did. My head didn't smap off.
I got this exact set to work with my impact driver. I did have to switch them from smaller to larger.
great, honest looking video.
Can use a grinder to cut a slot for a big flat head screwdriver as well works everytime and saves rethreading
If the head is sticking out enough, you can tighten the drill itself onto the screw and then put the drill in reverse to take out the screw. It will work with a screw that us just stripped, or one thT the head has snapped off. You just have to have enough of the screw out for the drill to grab. That has saved me many times.
I just used the same type of extractor bit, made by a different company, with the same result. I think it was called Speedout.
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Gen Expert, ty for Video great job, I also bought same bits form HD. To remove screws on my porch deck and it basically tore the heads off the screw & eventually broke just like yours. So had to revert to old fashion elbow grease, chiseling, hacksaw and Dremel, I was disappointed to say the lease!
A while back I had to use something like that under my car in a super tight spot. I felt so lucky that it worked but not after at least one bit broke
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I've never had any luck with any extractor, and I've bought a fair few in my time. But sometimes, if you are going to have to drill the head off anyway, use a left-handed twist drill. This often extracts the screw as it bites into the metal. Well, it does for me, anyway. YMMV 🙂