Kurust actually needs rust to work. If you take back to clean steel then it won't work. It converts rust into a hard, stable, black/blue surface which can then be primed and overcoated with paint. I use it a lot and have found it very effective.
@@zambotv8150 it will last 20+ years if you clean the surrounding area and the rusted area with sander / grinder, apply a few coats of converter on , paint over with metal etch primer, then regular paint over that. the rust converter causes a chemical reaction in the metal which stop the rust from developing more. the etch primer will essentially seal the metal from elements and prevent further rusting paint will just be for finishing touch.
When tackling rust, the most important thing to do is understand why it has corroded in each area, if it's due to stone chips then you have done ok by tackling what you can see. Unfortunately some corrosion comes through from the inside of the panel due to moisture build-up internally. It's always good practice to remove the inner plastic wheel arches, internal plastic panels, etc to see if there is corrosion that needs treating there as well. If you don't, the rust WILL return. vehicle sills are notorious for rusting from the inside and need particular care and attention as it is a structural part of your vehicle. As for Kurust, I've been using it for years and always had perfect results as long as you use it as recommended on the bottle which is basically leave it alone after application and then paint over it with etch primer, top coat and always apply clear coat to seal the paint.
@@toyota218921 Yes you can, the Kurust needs to be sealed by a primer before filler is applied but the filler needs to be coated with primer before top coats are applied to ensure the top coat has a good 'key' to cling to.
You`re supposed to leave the Kurust on, not cut it back the next day. It chemically changes rust ie Iron oxide to Ferric Phosphate which is stable. You put the Kurust on, let it cure, then filler or primer over the top of it
Why would I leave it on clean metal? I just want it to neutralise the tiny rust spots. The Mipa stuff was better however, I have started using POR 15, that seems to work differently from the others, however, if you want rid of it, cut it out and weld in new steel
@@zambotv8150 Why wouldnt you leave it. it does no harm in the slightest, its probably better than the clean steel. It doesnt "neutralise" rust, it chemically changes iron oxide to ferric phosphate, which is a stable compound and encapsulates the rest so Oxygen cant get to the steel underneath to Oxidise the iron again. It can be filled and primed straight over. If you cut it back to metal then you are removing the stable compound and the encapsulation, allowing Oxygen back to create more Iron Oxide ie Rust
@@codenamenel Wow man what a comment thanks so much. I was trying to get back to silver looking steel but I was left with pitting so, I used an artists paintbrush on the pitting, the Kurust appeared to coat it, the MIPA rust treatment did actually turn the pits to a powder after I applied it a couple of times. I am so paranoid about rust, that van's a complete shed, I don't want to re-do this stuff if I don't have to. Are you a professional painter buddy? Best regards from Glasgow
@@zambotv8150 not a professional, although ive just done a better job on my Land Rover wheel arches than a so called professional outfit ! just someone who likes to keep things ive spent a lot of money on from turning to red dust lol With the pitting, leave the Kurust in the pitting then use filler straight over the top to smooth it all off, primer over and paint I personally use Bilt Hamber products, their Hydrate 80 has been proven the best rust converter in a few tests, they also do rust removers called deox-c that strip rust off back to bare metal overnight
@@codenamenel Cheers buddy, www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/bilt-hamber/hydrate-80.aspx?Google&MerchantCentre&variant=5042&gclid=CjwKCAjw9r-DBhBxEiwA9qYUpb6o_a4rFfC0mZ8RzLUG3EGbB_xXEPwvIOvTAmYLGDqWOTrQvcSJhBoCDCsQAvD_BwE Is that it? Would you recommend giving it a go?
Mate, honestly, I had NO idea what I was taking on, it was just a mad idea that ended up biting me in the arse, 7 months later and I haven't even finished the metalwork, the whole thing's been a ballache
Kurust actually needs rust to work. If you take back to clean steel then it won't work. It converts rust into a hard, stable, black/blue surface which can then be primed and overcoated with paint. I use it a lot and have found it very effective.
That's for the reply, I am not convinced with any of them, how long do the repairs last after you use it?
@@zambotv8150 it will last 20+ years if you clean the surrounding area and the rusted area with sander / grinder,
apply a few coats of converter on
, paint over with metal etch primer,
then regular paint over that.
the rust converter causes a chemical reaction in the metal which stop the rust from developing more.
the etch primer will essentially seal the metal from elements and prevent further rusting
paint will just be for finishing touch.
@@SamFBM So etch primer is the key? Cheers Sam, I'll give that a go thanks' for the tip
@@SamFBM can i use body filler over the etch primer
use it all the time...great stuff
When tackling rust, the most important thing to do is understand why it has corroded in each area, if it's due to stone chips then you have done ok by tackling what you can see.
Unfortunately some corrosion comes through from the inside of the panel due to moisture build-up internally. It's always good practice to remove the inner plastic wheel arches, internal plastic panels, etc to see if there is corrosion that needs treating there as well. If you don't, the rust WILL return. vehicle sills are notorious for rusting from the inside and need particular care and attention as it is a structural part of your vehicle. As for Kurust, I've been using it for years and always had perfect results as long as you use it as recommended on the bottle which is basically leave it alone after application and then paint over it with etch primer, top coat and always apply clear coat to seal the paint.
Can I use filler after the etch primer and before the topcoats
@@toyota218921 Yes you can, the Kurust needs to be sealed by a primer before filler is applied but the filler needs to be coated with primer before top coats are applied to ensure the top coat has a good 'key' to cling to.
You`re supposed to leave the Kurust on, not cut it back the next day. It chemically changes rust ie Iron oxide to Ferric Phosphate which is stable. You put the Kurust on, let it cure, then filler or primer over the top of it
Why would I leave it on clean metal? I just want it to neutralise the tiny rust spots. The Mipa stuff was better however, I have started using POR 15, that seems to work differently from the others, however, if you want rid of it, cut it out and weld in new steel
@@zambotv8150 Why wouldnt you leave it. it does no harm in the slightest, its probably better than the clean steel. It doesnt "neutralise" rust, it chemically changes iron oxide to ferric phosphate, which is a stable compound and encapsulates the rest so Oxygen cant get to the steel underneath to Oxidise the iron again. It can be filled and primed straight over. If you cut it back to metal then you are removing the stable compound and the encapsulation, allowing Oxygen back to create more Iron Oxide ie Rust
@@codenamenel Wow man what a comment thanks so much. I was trying to get back to silver looking steel but I was left with pitting so, I used an artists paintbrush on the pitting, the Kurust appeared to coat it, the MIPA rust treatment did actually turn the pits to a powder after I applied it a couple of times. I am so paranoid about rust, that van's a complete shed, I don't want to re-do this stuff if I don't have to. Are you a professional painter buddy? Best regards from Glasgow
@@zambotv8150 not a professional, although ive just done a better job on my Land Rover wheel arches than a so called professional outfit ! just someone who likes to keep things ive spent a lot of money on from turning to red dust lol
With the pitting, leave the Kurust in the pitting then use filler straight over the top to smooth it all off, primer over and paint
I personally use Bilt Hamber products, their Hydrate 80 has been proven the best rust converter in a few tests, they also do rust removers called deox-c that strip rust off back to bare metal overnight
@@codenamenel Cheers buddy, www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/bilt-hamber/hydrate-80.aspx?Google&MerchantCentre&variant=5042&gclid=CjwKCAjw9r-DBhBxEiwA9qYUpb6o_a4rFfC0mZ8RzLUG3EGbB_xXEPwvIOvTAmYLGDqWOTrQvcSJhBoCDCsQAvD_BwE Is that it? Would you recommend giving it a go?
I’d just get a new van mate
Mate, honestly, I had NO idea what I was taking on, it was just a mad idea that ended up biting me in the arse, 7 months later and I haven't even finished the metalwork, the whole thing's been a ballache
@@zambotv8150 do you paint it after applying this
@@elephantgunners9518 I think I did? Those old vans are rust buckets, if you leave the metal for anytime at all surface rust builds up within days
Dont take it to London sadique khan will fine you for the rust 😢
The Glasgow Council have beat him to it.... There's a LEZ zone up here as well now, we are led by idiots
These rust product don't work half the van falling apart with rust