Thanks so much for posting this very helpful info! I need something temporary in case of a loss of electricity. We have potential for accumulation of ice and I'm alone with my disabled son and have to diy . I bought a nice 1970s earth stove that's in great shape. I have a through the wall hole already there in our concrete basement. I just don't have the time or money to have a professional install by this weekend so hopefully this will help get us th through in case of a blackout. Again thank you so much.
Honestly this a great video as in no one else is willing to show us how to do this temporary set up. I have been thinking of something simular just to get me through this next season and it is great that you showed your set up and shared your experience. I Thank You.
helpful information. Especially for my use as I want to put stove in basement and don't want to go through floor, ceiling and roof with pipe going up through a closet
Thank you! I have a small 8x8 room in the middle of my home. It's useless. It has a window and I had thoughts about something like this. My home was built in the 1800s and moved to its current location in 1908 when a damn was built. I have always wanted a small stove like yours or a pot belly. More for looks and to fire up once In a while for the smell. I try to keep my home as vintage looking as possible I love your floor btw
Thanks so much! 1800s? Crazy! That's really cool. I used to live in a house that was built in 1905, and it was also moved shortly after construction to make room for a copper mine.
I am so thankful you posted this video. This is what i was going to do, but was not sure how and all the information you gave here was SO helpful. You saved me a lot of expense and hassle in the future. I learned this is probably not the way to go, Darn It. Thank You so much!
Glad to help! I remember you asked last week, as well as some others. Sorry I didn't have a lot of step-by-step pictures and so forth, but I hope the explanation was sufficient.
There's a different way to do this. There's regs in UK which wouldn't allow this even though it's probably ok. Another way to do it would be to have a woodburner outside. Could be 6 feet away from your house. then have a 4-6 inch pipe going through the stove which a fan blows airthrough the pipe in the woodburner and into your house so you get fresh warm air into your house without dealing with the smoke, that just goes up in your garden.
That's interesting. I installed a couple of floor vents during the summer for better airflow, but they also made the draft for the stove awesome. It burns better than ever now.
I have a military h-45 heater stove and I'm probably going to use it outside I'm hoping to get a military shelter tent if I can get a good deal incase of a electrical black out they don't usually last long so that's a bright side
I’m doing the same thing or similar. Except my wood stove is going to be the survivor cub wood stove from England wood stove company. I’m not sure if I want to buy a stove pipe increaser and go from 4” to 6” pipe or just keep it at 4” . It would be more economical for me to use 6” pipe. I’m also going through a window. Except I’m going to use a T pipe then run straight pipe up to 2 feet above the roof. I will make my own chimney cap / rain cap. Another idea I have is too make metal chimney for the pipe coming out to connect too. Although I think the best cheapest way is to run the pipe from the stove to a T cap the bottom of the T then connect two more sections. I use my wood stove for backup . When the electric goes out or it’s so cold out that the propane furnace can’t keep it warm
I have a pot belly stove and I also have a chimney they say it's decoration but it is not this house was built in 1800 and the fireplace has been used to burn wood the situation I got an estimate $6,000 and I can't afford that. So I'm worried about this blackout and I need to hook up this pot belly with stove for heat and light this winter. The unfortunate thing the pipe from the wood stove is 8 in and the hole for the chimney is 6 in so I thought I would just go through a window. I am just a woman with no knowledge of all this but I am looking desperately for a way to be prepared
Yo!!! What’s wrong with those specs? 🤣🤣🤣 I have those same frames and get the most compliments when I wear them!!! 🤣🤣🤣 I feel unintentionally attacked. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 😉 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks. So, I would not start a new fire, and then go straight to sleep, just in case. For example, the fire could die out prematurely and smolder while you're sleeping, and that could be dangerous. However, I do go to bed while there are still red hot coals from the last fire in it.
I respect anyone willing to do a DIY project on their own. So bravo on that aspect. But oh man.....there is so much wrong with this. Lol. Just a tip, if you put a taller chimney pipe that would extend past the peak of your roof, you would get a much better draw, and better burn.
I used plywood and 2x4s to make the box, which I painted black. I bought the metal thimble separate from the stove; and the pipes are just the steel pipes that came with the camp stove. I also bought the chimney cap separately.
You're welcome. Do you mean 1/4" steel in place of the plywood? If so, yes; but, you'll lose a lot of heat to the outside - the steel will conduct and radiate the heat towards the cold.
Not withstanding your inexpensive stove, cement board should be used instead of plywood because the pipe can catch the plywood on fire. And you are right, you need to have your stovepipe above your roof. If you don't care about yourself as you say, that being the least of your concern, you still should not put this out there as a viable option for people because it is very dangerous on so many levels! I understand not having a lot of money to do it the right way, but if you burn everything you have down to the ground and possibly lose yours or your loved ones lives, was it really worth it?
I've been doing research on how to install wood stoves for months and many professionals say not to go out a window because it has a potential to create back draft. Having a window open, to create draft, like he has done remedies that issue. No professional has said not to do this because of safety issues or fire risk. They say if you have to do it this way, say, in a basement where you don't want pipe running through three floors of house space, to give the chimney at least a 15' rise to help with draft. The ply wood is my only concern with what he has done. And he didn't mention having an air gap behind the metal. With an air gap there is no need for cement board.
@@emilye709 yeah if you got enough rise you can go through a window it's no different than a chimney. Gases just need a path out. He would be better off with chicken wire and aluminum foil rather than that plywood box if money is an issue. Looks like he a death wish almost. I like the corrugated metal he has behind the stove but that plywood box that the flue goes through worries me .
It's even worse. I just saw the outside . The fucking flue pipe has to go above the roof . Jesus Homosexual Christ this is 15 minutes of my life I'll never get back.
@@arizonaadam3000 I am 66 yo. This ain't my first rodeo. Wind sucks the smoke out of the pipe if the pipe is protruding above the roof and has a roof cap. I damn well know it does. I have installed an/or used plenty in my day. Still have one.
@@battleofarmageddon1366 If you're such an expert, why are you even watching this video in the first place? Congrats on being old. I'm in my 40s. Who cares? Heat and pressure differences cause suction, which is actually blowing/pushing; and right turns absolutely hinder a draft; but go ahead and disagree with every physicist on the planet. I don't care.
If your gunna use a window you'd do better making it perminant, by taking out the window (glass) measuring it out, Then making a cement box that fixs into it with a in-thimbol & out-thimbol hardened into the cement or the hole for it in it. Then you can literaly just take it in & out as you please & do either or.
There's nothing magical about going above a roof line. That's a best practice that is done to ensure the chimney is clear of obstructions, and that the smoke clears the building. It doesn't really have anything to do with draft. Yes, the higher the flue and chimney go, the stronger the draft; but again, nothing special about the roof line. If my roof line was 20' feet high but I only ran my chimney 10' up the side of the building, I would still get a strong draft. Hope that makes sense.
not so very different from what I did. I used a bunch of different parts used unconventionally. I did the same thing with my pipes as far as one pipe inside another pipe instead of buying the expensive insulated pipes. I used a 6-in pipe inside of an 8-in with the thimble also
@@winstonsmith3696 To avoid the 90º turn? I don't see why you couldn't make that work. It would just be trickier to cut your holes and get everything to fit right.
@@arizonaadam3000I'm only worried about heat transfer to the plywood for fire safety issues, I'm trying to install my wood burning stove on my bus atm, looking at pros and cons of window vs roof
I am looking at how to do it, designs and how other people did it, of course this is temporary and not on a bus, but, still interesting to see how you did it.
@@jwspicy It takes about 700ºF of direct heat to combust wood. I've never had any issues. The stove just doesn't put out THAT much heat. I even have a small plywood and 2x4 table next to it - not shown in this video - but no issues whatsoever. Your biggest issue going through the bus roof would likely be water leaks due to curvature. I think the Tiny Wood Stove company I mentioned sells a kit just for busses. Hope that helps.
@@jwspicy I just had another idea: You could screw or glue sheet metal over the plywood with an air gap between them, using washers as spacers. That would give the plywood more heat protection without the metal conducting heat directly out of the bus.
Lol, that's funny. I'm sure if this is set up, I have a feeling that he may not have insurance. I known the reason I came across this video because yeah this isn't the safest option, but sometimes your just trying to survive. Although a few hundred dollars isn't much to most, but when you have 0 (or negative) dollars even $20 is a lot of dollars.
Great video! I love the line "I'm too cheap and lazy to do that". I laughed because that describes so many of us!
I'm a 73 year old woman & had to do this in an emergency...I'm not too cheap...I'm POOR & struggling. Shame on you.
Thanks so much for posting this very helpful info! I need something temporary in case of a loss of electricity. We have potential for accumulation of ice and I'm alone with my disabled son and have to diy . I bought a nice 1970s earth stove that's in great shape. I have a through the wall hole already there in our concrete basement. I just don't have the time or money to have a professional install by this weekend so hopefully this will help get us th through in case of a blackout. Again thank you so much.
Glad to help. Best of luck to you!
Honestly this a great video as in no one else is willing to show us how to do this temporary set up. I have been thinking of something simular just to get me through this next season and it is great that you showed your set up and shared your experience. I Thank You.
You're welcome!
Great beard, man
Been thinking about this as a secondary heat source for when we have power outages
helpful information. Especially for my use as I want to put stove in basement and don't want to go through floor, ceiling and roof with pipe going up through a closet
Thank you! I have a small 8x8 room in the middle of my home. It's useless. It has a window and I had thoughts about something like this. My home was built in the 1800s and moved to its current location in 1908 when a damn was built. I have always wanted a small stove like yours or a pot belly. More for looks and to fire up once In a while for the smell. I try to keep my home as vintage looking as possible
I love your floor btw
Thanks so much! 1800s? Crazy! That's really cool. I used to live in a house that was built in 1905, and it was also moved shortly after construction to make room for a copper mine.
I am so thankful you posted this video. This is what i was going to do, but was not sure how and all the information you gave here was SO helpful. You saved me a lot of expense and hassle in the future. I learned this is probably not the way to go, Darn It.
Thank You so much!
Glad to help! I remember you asked last week, as well as some others. Sorry I didn't have a lot of step-by-step pictures and so forth, but I hope the explanation was sufficient.
@@arizonaadam3000 You saved me some future headaches.. I thought this project looked to easy for me to do on my own..Thanks Again!!
My man gives off hank william jr vibes. Good video by the way!
LOL, thanks!
There's a different way to do this. There's regs in UK which wouldn't allow this even though it's probably ok. Another way to do it would be to have a woodburner outside. Could be 6 feet away from your house. then have a 4-6 inch pipe going through the stove which a fan blows airthrough the pipe in the woodburner and into your house so you get fresh warm air into your house without dealing with the smoke, that just goes up in your garden.
Neat. Never heard of that before but I can imagine it works.
We use to put a vent in the floor right infront of the wood heater so it does not flood the room with cold air as much.
That's interesting. I installed a couple of floor vents during the summer for better airflow, but they also made the draft for the stove awesome. It burns better than ever now.
You can make a double-wall, and you wanna do your first burn outside.
Great man. Thanks! And I dig the shades
I have a military h-45 heater stove and I'm probably going to use it outside I'm hoping to get a military shelter tent if I can get a good deal incase of a electrical black out they don't usually last long so that's a bright side
This guy is literally telling u it's a temporary thing. Stop drilling him
youre right you should not do it this as a permit system. thanks for sharing and thanks for information and have a great day
I’m doing the same thing or similar. Except my wood stove is going to be the survivor cub wood stove from England wood stove company.
I’m not sure if I want to buy a stove pipe increaser and go from 4” to 6” pipe or just keep it at 4” .
It would be more economical for me to use 6” pipe.
I’m also going through a window. Except I’m going to use a T pipe then run straight pipe up to 2 feet above the roof. I will make my own chimney cap / rain cap.
Another idea I have is too make metal chimney for the pipe coming out to connect too.
Although I think the best cheapest way is to run the pipe from the stove to a T cap the bottom of the T then connect two more sections. I use my wood stove for backup . When the electric goes out or it’s so cold out that the propane furnace can’t keep it warm
Great video I'm trying this before it gets colder. I'm going to use a chimney flue not the thimble made out of Galvanized.
Thanks and good luck!
thanks saved my winter gas bills
Your view is incredible ❤❤
I'm only interested in doing this ,If I lose power during the winter.
I have a pot belly stove and I also have a chimney they say it's decoration but it is not this house was built in 1800 and the fireplace has been used to burn wood the situation I got an estimate $6,000 and I can't afford that. So I'm worried about this blackout and I need to hook up this pot belly with stove for heat and light this winter. The unfortunate thing the pipe from the wood stove is 8 in and the hole for the chimney is 6 in so I thought I would just go through a window. I am just a woman with no knowledge of all this but I am looking desperately for a way to be prepared
8 Inch to 6 Inch HVAC Duct Reducer & Increaser is sold on Amazon
At first when you said “I’ve had a lot of questions….” I thought, for sure, your next words were going to be “about my choice of eyewear.” 😂
LOL. Touche.
Yo!!! What’s wrong with those specs? 🤣🤣🤣 I have those same frames and get the most compliments when I wear them!!! 🤣🤣🤣
I feel unintentionally attacked. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 😉 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@clairebeane3455 on you they’d look fabulous but they make my mans look ….. eccentric 🤣
New sub, good video. Would you feel safe sleeping with a wood stove on? Any carbon monoxide concerns even with venting? Thanks
Thanks. So, I would not start a new fire, and then go straight to sleep, just in case. For example, the fire could die out prematurely and smolder while you're sleeping, and that could be dangerous. However, I do go to bed while there are still red hot coals from the last fire in it.
Love the glasses 😂
I respect anyone willing to do a DIY project on their own. So bravo on that aspect.
But oh man.....there is so much wrong with this. Lol.
Just a tip, if you put a taller chimney pipe that would extend past the peak of your roof, you would get a much better draw, and better burn.
Yes he said that. And it's temporary - did you listen to the whole thing ? It works for now and that was all he was after.
@regwatson2017 lol. Your responding to a comment I made over a year ago. Lol. Good job bud.
What material did ya use for the window ? Where did ya get the Material at for it to go thru window ? Thanks
I used plywood and 2x4s to make the box, which I painted black. I bought the metal thimble separate from the stove; and the pipes are just the steel pipes that came with the camp stove. I also bought the chimney cap separately.
Can I use a quarter inch piece of steel in the window? Thank you for the video
You're welcome. Do you mean 1/4" steel in place of the plywood? If so, yes; but, you'll lose a lot of heat to the outside - the steel will conduct and radiate the heat towards the cold.
@@arizonaadam3000 ok thank you
Not withstanding your inexpensive stove, cement board should be used instead of plywood because the pipe can catch the plywood on fire. And you are right, you need to have your stovepipe above your roof. If you don't care about yourself as you say, that being the least of your concern, you still should not put this out there as a viable option for people because it is very dangerous on so many levels! I understand not having a lot of money to do it the right way, but if you burn everything you have down to the ground and possibly lose yours or your loved ones lives, was it really worth it?
I've been doing research on how to install wood stoves for months and many professionals say not to go out a window because it has a potential to create back draft. Having a window open, to create draft, like he has done remedies that issue. No professional has said not to do this because of safety issues or fire risk.
They say if you have to do it this way, say, in a basement where you don't want pipe running through three floors of house space, to give the chimney at least a 15' rise to help with draft.
The ply wood is my only concern with what he has done. And he didn't mention having an air gap behind the metal. With an air gap there is no need for cement board.
@@emilye709 yeah if you got enough rise you can go through a window it's no different than a chimney.
Gases just need a path out.
He would be better off with chicken wire and aluminum foil rather than that plywood box if money is an issue.
Looks like he a death wish almost.
I like the corrugated metal he has behind the stove but that plywood box that the flue goes through worries me .
It's even worse.
I just saw the outside .
The fucking flue pipe has to go above the roof .
Jesus Homosexual Christ this is 15 minutes of my life I'll never get back.
The outside chimney pipe should always protrude above the roof to allow the wind to create suction. The proper draw can not be achieved otherwise.
Not true. Wind sucks the draft in spite of those two bends. that is like saying water pressure is decreased by making a turn in a pipe.
Wind does not create suction; it creates blowback. It pushes the smoke back down the chimney, in to the house.
It might not change pressure, but it absolute slows down the rate of flow. They're different.
@@arizonaadam3000 I am 66 yo. This ain't my first rodeo. Wind sucks the smoke out of the pipe if the pipe is protruding above the roof and has a roof cap. I damn well know it does. I have installed an/or used plenty in my day. Still have one.
@@battleofarmageddon1366 If you're such an expert, why are you even watching this video in the first place? Congrats on being old. I'm in my 40s. Who cares? Heat and pressure differences cause suction, which is actually blowing/pushing; and right turns absolutely hinder a draft; but go ahead and disagree with every physicist on the planet. I don't care.
It doesn't burn the plastic in the window?
No. The window is mostly aluminum with a little bit of vinyl on the outside.
If your gunna use a window you'd do better making it perminant, by taking out the window (glass) measuring it out, Then making a cement box that fixs into it with a in-thimbol & out-thimbol hardened into the cement or the hole for it in it. Then you can literaly just take it in & out as you please & do either or.
What about a basement window? Removing the entire window and replacing with thimble and bezel.
I don't see why not. Just make sure you do a super job water sealing it.
What size is your pipe
@@Hunter918-98 😂 out of context that sounds like a come-on. 😭
Wow them glasses arw styling 😂😂😂
Start your fire with a mapp gas torch. Propane cook bottles fit on em they're cheaper. You're welcome 🤠
Good info…
No stack higher than the roof? WTF? How can you have any draft at all.
There's nothing magical about going above a roof line. That's a best practice that is done to ensure the chimney is clear of obstructions, and that the smoke clears the building. It doesn't really have anything to do with draft. Yes, the higher the flue and chimney go, the stronger the draft; but again, nothing special about the roof line. If my roof line was 20' feet high but I only ran my chimney 10' up the side of the building, I would still get a strong draft. Hope that makes sense.
not so very different from what I did. I used a bunch of different parts used unconventionally. I did the same thing with my pipes as far as one pipe inside another pipe instead of buying the expensive insulated pipes. I used a 6-in pipe inside of an 8-in with the thimble also
Is that Hank Williams Jr?
😄Maybe.
What if you used two 45s and came out the window at angle?
@@winstonsmith3696 To avoid the 90º turn? I don't see why you couldn't make that work. It would just be trickier to cut your holes and get everything to fit right.
Yes. You could use the shorter pipe up top to trace like you did
Shit it is sketchy but the people in Ukraine with no power might have to do something similar to this just to survive until their power is back
Wake up!
I would have used scrap metal instead of plywood lol... but, hey, it works. 😅
I see your logic but that would just create a huge heat sink to the outside. You'd be burning wood for the birds.
@@arizonaadam3000I'm only worried about heat transfer to the plywood for fire safety issues, I'm trying to install my wood burning stove on my bus atm, looking at pros and cons of window vs roof
I am looking at how to do it, designs and how other people did it, of course this is temporary and not on a bus, but, still interesting to see how you did it.
@@jwspicy It takes about 700ºF of direct heat to combust wood. I've never had any issues. The stove just doesn't put out THAT much heat. I even have a small plywood and 2x4 table next to it - not shown in this video - but no issues whatsoever. Your biggest issue going through the bus roof would likely be water leaks due to curvature. I think the Tiny Wood Stove company I mentioned sells a kit just for busses. Hope that helps.
@@jwspicy I just had another idea: You could screw or glue sheet metal over the plywood with an air gap between them, using washers as spacers. That would give the plywood more heat protection without the metal conducting heat directly out of the bus.
I recommend checking with your insurance company before doing this...
Lol, that's funny. I'm sure if this is set up, I have a feeling that he may not have insurance. I known the reason I came across this video because yeah this isn't the safest option, but sometimes your just trying to survive. Although a few hundred dollars isn't much to most, but when you have 0 (or negative) dollars even $20 is a lot of dollars.
Bingo!
I could get past your glasses sorry😂
Do u get a good enough draft with that not going up very high?
Surprisingly, yes. However, I always leave the damper at the bottom of the door wide open and I removed the damper in the flue.
Women’s sunglasses 🕶️