Servicing of a 1954 A.C. Gilbert American Flyer
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- Опубліковано 23 жов 2022
- Hauntober Halloween Specials for 2022. Step by step showing how I disassembled, cleaned & re-lubed this Classic "S" gauge.
#classicmodeltrains
#americanflyer
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1507 Old Hardin Road
Billings, Mt. 59101
@classicmodeltrains
My second channel mentioned link below.
@RonsClassicRVs
I am amazed by people like you, and many of your viewers, who have the ability to understand all those little parts arranged in a complex setup that can make a little toy train move along. It's great fun to watch you tinker with this stuff and get it running smoothly. Thanks for another interesting video.🙂
Wow, thank you!
Ron, you did an excellent presentation about care and maintenance. I had America Flyer when I was 6 years old, but one day it disappeared. I think of renewing my interest with a layout, something to keep me busy in my retirement years. Thank you, again!
Thank you and I do hope you Get a layout going again. Well help with something to do :-)
I enjoy watching you repair old locomotives. I have recently acquired an HO scale 4-6-4. It has, so I am told, the whole smoke unit and choo-choo sound, as they called it. The wires and tubes are there. Oddly, the middle drivers seem to be plastic with no flange to them. I've not yet managed to ascertain exactly what model it is. Eventually I want to make it run for DCC. First there's a lot of research. Your videos are very encouraging. Thank you!
Thanks for your kind words. Hope you get the 'Ol Gal running the rails again soon!
My brother told me about your channel. He did more railroading than I did. I worked on the BN as a carman for about 10 months and the following summer laid ribbon rail, just corners. I am not into model trains but do appreciate the time and effort that is put into them and shared. Thanks!
Thanks for stopping by for a episode or 2 and leaving a nice comment!!
I am seeing this video for the third time sometime after you posted it. I am working on two American Flyer 302. Your video has been very helpful. Trying to get these old monsters running again. keep doing what you do and thank you very much.
Thanks for all your support. Hope you got your 302's running like a well oiled machine.
An electrical contact cleaner CRC 2-26 (Home Depot-electrical department) will help clean the reversing unit. It has been a great help in cleaning and improving the contact on the pick ups for the tender, and cleaning the commutator on the end of the motor. Enjoyed the video, thanks for the entertainment!!!
I few people have mentioned that product. I shall have to try it out, Thanks!
Not too much. Just wanna put in a little less than too much 😂😂😂😂. Great video. Glad I found your channel
Thanks and welcome
Very cool demonstration and background history on the engine. Always entertaining.
Thank you S.F. Bob :-)
Awesome work, lube, smoke & chuff... Viewer 432, "Thumbs Up" #100... keep up the good work. John
Thanks John :-)
American Flyer is joyous stuff!
Yup!
Decent! You explain things so well as you work, even with a wee bit of humor and occasional sarcasm. Another excellent video in the can! Can hardly wait for the next.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have a American Flyer set 2 steam locomotives ! was from my dad, built in 1947 I think, it took a long time to get them running ( It was a fun time working on them )
Pretty cool how your running your Dad's trains from '47. Thanks for sharing a great story :-)
Ron. another sweet revival of an old, beautiful locomotive.
Thanks Sir!
Love your videos, absolutely enjoy your subtle sense of humor. Keep ‘em rolling boss !
Glad you like them!
Thanks for posting. It seems you discovered a few suprised during this project. A couple things...the slotted screws are what flyer used. The reverse units came as 4 and two position. In the last days of production there were a few engines that had a reverse switch only. And to the best of my knowledge only a switcher was made with no reverse.
Thanks for watching and sharing some good information. wonder why they would have no reverse in a switcher. that's its main job is go back and forth :-)
very dramatic music awesome...good job Ron
Thank you Gary :-)
Great video Ron. Thanks for the explanation.
You are very welcome
Good morning Ron, your video is going to help me fix my s-scale engines. I have four of them. One from 1948 which is a passenger train. Looking forwards to getting it running. Like you I collect an repair old trains. Tyco’s to me are the easiest to fix. Keep up the great work and god bless you and your family.
Hello Mike, glad I could help you out on your repairs. Bless you and your's also :-)
Great job I love the old Atlantics.
Thank you Arlen
Well explained if a bit unorthodox! The 300 series locomotives all used the same basic motor as all of the larger steamers except for the ones with the larger armature. Gilbert made that motor during WW2 for control of airplane wing flaps. It is SOLID.
I read something about the wing flap motor story. Pretty interesting
Gilbert built the control valve motor for I think the flaps in the Grumman F6F Hellcat. They even had an advertisement mentioning this in the 1940s.
Wonderful. Looking forward to more videos.
More to come!
I learned something new.
Awesome!
Lionel use three-rail tracks for a variety of reasons, but most of them fall under user safety. Since the rails are the train’s power cable, the primary concern is electrical shorts frying the electronics or causing fires. As such, the third rail keeps the live power separated from the ground.When Lionel began making model trains in 1900, there was no real standard for model trains, except for the 5-rail Marklin standard from 1891. At the time, every manufacturer had its track design, including both two and three-rail formats. Lionel was in the 2-rail camp until they released the first true, 3-rail “Standard Gauge” trains in 1906.Lionel used the center rail as the hot rail, reserving the outer two for ground. This configuration allows for complex track setups while ensuring that the circuit was simple enough for the technology of the day. A 2-rails system must reverse the polarity to avoid short circuits, which was impossible in 1906. This is the same reason many real subway systems use 3-rail tracks as well.The Third Rail Can Act as an Automatic Switch
Through clever use of insulation, one of the rails can act as an automatic push-button switch. This setup lets the train activate crossovers, signals, and other accessories automatically as they draw near. This prevents derailments and adds a bit of realism to your models. Lionel’s “Standard Gauge” tracks became so popular that they became the de facto industry standard. So much so that Lionel had to keep the 3-rail design to remain compatible with preexisting accessories when they introduced the “O gauge” standard, which they would later update to the current “Super O” standard in use today. Only American Flyer used a competing 2-rail “S Gauge” standard. The alternating current electricity coming out of the wall outlet constantly reverses polarity. This reversal happens 60 times per second in North America and 50 in Europe. As such, it requires two live wires, a hot wire (usually black) and a return (usually white). For safety and reliability, a third wire connected to the literal ground is also present, though it is rarely used in model trains.
However, the high voltage of the household current is too unsafe for the exposed metal toy tracks. Therefore, Lionel uses a variable voltage transformer to convert the electricity into something more manageable. It also lets you change the speed of the train, giving you full control over the model.
The electricity then passes down the center rail to the motor in the train itself. After the motor, it uses the wheels to jump to the outer rails to make its journey back to the outlet, passing through the transformer one more time in the process.Lionel did some of the work for you though by using their 3-rail design. Every Lionel track component uses the same 3 rails, letting you combine them without worrying about shorting them. If linked properly, the electricity will remain going in the right direction regardless of how many switches you use.
Two-rail systems require additional equipment to do what three-rail systems do naturally. This additional equipment would then constantly reverse the polarity to ensure no shorts occur anywhere down the line. This would make the trainsets more expensive or limit the possible track layouts.
WOW FRANK!! That's a lot of GREAT info. Thanks for sharing. :-)
@@classicmodeltrains Very interesting material, Ron, uh ?
Thank you! Frank ~~
A great save on a not so common scale🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲🙋
Thanks 4ever! Lots of S scale modelers out there I am finding out.
Great video! I will be using this for reference when I dig into my grandfathers Atlantic. I have two other S gauge locomotives to clean and refurbish as well! Thanks for you time and effort in doing these how tos! Greatly appreciated as you do such a good job with them and the humor added is what make your videos really stand out! Happy All Hallows’ Eve!
Thanks EC, Glad to help out. Keep these old gems running for the next generation, or 2 to enjoy. My humor...You should see me in person. I'm more like George Carlin (he he) ;-)
PS: The wheels look good in the demo. I think the AF #303 is one of the most unsung engines in either S or O gauge. Over time, they have become my favorite engine in my fleet. It is durable, trouble free and has good pulling power. It looks good in peddler freight operations or with a passenger consist.
Gilbert hit a home run with this little guy.
I completely agree with you Sir!!
They're also relatively easy to come by at model train shows and can often be picked up for a low price even the earlier ones with the diecast boiler.
Awesome. I will definitely learn a lot . Thanks
Hello Chucky! Good to see ya aboard. :-)
"... which is something I've been looking forward to, just not yet."
Hilarious!!!
Did you notice that you fixed the 'stink bug' raking problem just by properly reassembling the motor assembly to the body? I did...
Greetings MC. I was under pressure to finish this video. Did not have time to re-wind that relay. As I was editing the video I remembered stink bug status. You guessed it, the previous owner assembled it poorly.
Love you videos and since of humor!!
Thank you :-)
You know who designed this stuff to be so difficult? The same people that designed vehicles to be that way. like the people that designed the placement of the starter on the Northstar engine. You being a mechanic know exactly what I am talking about. I was a mechanic for 40 years and cussed that one a few times. Love your truck. Big fan of the 71-72 Chevys.
I always wanted to find a Automotive engineer and invite him into a dark back alley for a review of his idea's. Why would you NOT put a starter under the intake manifold? The oil filter should ALWAYS be engineered to lay on its side right above the front differential / drive line or what ever else they can put up there. I wonder if the engineers wanted it right and the Bean Counters always said "that's to expensive". My search for the truth shall continue :-)
@@classicmodeltrains I couldnt agree with you more on the invite a engineer to a back alley. I had more of the idea to shove their heads under the hood and slam their heads into the mess they made. Then tell them to fix it. Part of the reason I had to retire. That and the triple bypass helped make my decision.
@@matchboxcustomsandrestos Sorry to hear about the 3X bypass :-(
Another fine service job! You edit in the dramatic music at the end very well! Great video Ron! 👍👍🚂
Thank you Jim :-)
Awesome job on the execution and the elocution I can’t wait to get my S gauge hot rods going and add to my collection of all gauges! i’m going to have a Hanukkahween exhibit on October 31 with the kids come by I have couple Train running and it’s so cool to see kids see their first train set in action it
Hanukkahween, I LOVE it!! Exposing kids to modeling trains is always a great idea! Hope it turns out great :-)
You got that locomotive is really good shape and actually quite clean. I knew right a way that it was riding high in the back because someone hadn't properly reassembled it and the metal taps inside the boiler weren't in the slots on the chassis. It won't run much longer because at least one of the copper arms that contact the drum in the reverse unit already has a large hole in it. There are four of those arms, and they do wear through with use. In two pairs, they are mounted on two fiber plates that attach to the sheet metal sides. The fiber plates each have two slots at either end which slide over metal tabs that are then carefully twisted to hold the fiber plates firmly in place. Repro parts are readily available. I also have a tender weight with lots of metal discs molded into it.
Greetings Mark. Thanks for sharing good information. It's nice to hear aftermarket parts are available for these old Gal's.
I didnt know they had parts for these. My buddy has a one of these Atlantics that I did some work on. Noticed that the upper board was cracked. I used a dab of glue to get it back together. I will have to see what I can find online
The Ives Company filed for bankruptcy ninety-four years ago. The firm's assets were eventually sold for $74,000. Joshua Lionel Cowen purchased a 50% share, and William Ogden Coleman (head of American Flyer) bought the rest. Coleman later sold his share to Joshua Lionel Cowen.
Lionel began marketing IVES clockwork trains. In 1930-1931, Lionel sold Winner O gauge electric trains whose cars were made using IVES tooling. Both were low-end starter outfits, implying that the recipient would graduate to electric LIONEL trains as his tastes matured or as his purchasing power grew.
In 1933, Lionel formally dissolved the Ives Company, at which point all IVES trademarks and patents (including the coveted three-position electrical reversing unit) became Lionel property. But in order to preserve its legal rights, Lionel had to manufacture something with the IVES name on it. It chose the track clip that held sections of 027 track together, possibly because that item remained hidden under the ties at all times. I bought a 1971 Fundimensions set that still included IVES track clips.
MTH applied for the IVES trademark sometime around 2001. The United States Patent and Trademark Office granted it in 2003, ruling that Lionel had abandoned it in 1999 by failing to renew its registration.
Once again, Thanks for sharing some great information. There is a couple of things in there I was not aware of. Thanks for commenting Frank :-)
Took some pictures over the weekend of the billboard I made with your you and your Logo, on the Club's layout. We were at the Desert Empire Fair, Ridgecrest, Ca. Maybe in the weeks to come, you might like to share the pics with your viewers.
Greetings Lynn! You and the Club sure get around alot! Very Busy. I can definitely throw a "shout out" to you and the club. You guys have done alot of promoting for me, and I Thank you Sir :-)
Funny you should post a video on these engines. I recently picked up a box of old American Flyer that had been sitting in a damp basement for the past 25 years. There's about 16 of these Atlantics in there. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me. :D
WOW! Cool find. I hope there not all rusted real bad. Sounds like a winter project is at hand :-)
Awesome channel
Thank you!
Nicely done
Thanks!
Excellent tutorial. U used to repair my buddy's American Flyer trains. I'm a Lionel guy, however I was very impressed by how well built these trains are.
They are quite stout
Love the videos
Thank you Daniel!
I just did the same thing to a 303. You do it better than I do but I wanted to add one thing if I may. When I got into gear box that holds the drive wheel and choo choo idler gear, I found the grease had hardened to a solid almost. I used Acetone, lighter fluid, contact cleaners and a hard bristle brush and had to use a pick in between the tines of the gears to get rid of that crap. It was the most beneficial thing I did in cleaning. It is running perfectly, non-stop.
Thanks to Classic Model Trains. I referred to this video many times.
I'm glad you got that 'Ol Gal running again. sounds like quite a clean up job you had. Happy I could help you out :-)
When I learned it, it is a worm that extends from the motor. The worm gear it the circular part visible, and is driven by the worm.
Worm gear on the armature shaft and ring gear is around the axle shaft. I think were on the same page but the auto correct changed your "ring" word to "worm" I'm just guessing :-)
Made me laugh out loud when you said try not to shoot the springs across the room! Anyone who has ever cleaned a locomotive hasn't lived if you haven't spent time crawling across the floor looking for a spring launched into outer space!
Yup. I try and vacuum the floor before I start, just to make it one more easier for when the search commences :-)
Hey ,enjoy your content. Your HO collection is very impressive. Anyways, would like to see more o scale and s gauge content. Keep up the great great work.
Thank you very much. Just finishing up a “S” video this evening. Next one will be a Lionel O-27.
@@classicmodeltrains ive learned a lot from tour channel and some memories from childhood with dad. Just awesome content!
nice job
Thanks!
Nicely done Ron....nicely done!!!
Thank you kindly Ray! :-)
If you run an AC engine on DC you should unhook the reversing unit 'cause the controller will reverse the direction. I run all my Lionel 027 on DC. Also if you have a whistling tender you should unhook it electrically so it won't always whistle. The DC imposed over the AC is used to make the whistle work. Cheers from eastern TN
I agree!
I didn't see anyone mention something about AF E-units. Watch out for the fingers on them. They are notorious for developing holes and breaking, but replacements are available on Ebay. This happened to an Atlantic that I have in which the fingers on the E-unit needed to be replace due to a broken finger. This has turned out to be one of these days project, but there is good news if you need to replace the fingers. There are many videos here on UA-cam showing the process.
A lot of people have mentioned the fingers suffering from corrosion. My next video I will point it out. Its great they can still be purchased
That is really awesome and I'm glad you got it running good. You need to get yourself some smoke fluid for any steam engine do you own just to keep everything in Tip Top good condition. It looks really awesome and it's a great little smoker. Well done
Thanks for your kind words K.V. That Bachmann fluid is the only stuff I can find anymore. I have an old bottle of Lionel smoke pellets also, just in case I run into one of those kind of smoke units :-)
@@classicmodeltrains a lot of the American flyer trains only ran on smoke fluid. Like the older Lionel engines those took the smell pellets
Great video buddy. Awesome train.
Thank you very much!
Now that you mastered both the Lionel & American Flyer scales now to really pull your hair out you need to do "N" Gauge model trains. Then you'll be a complete all-a-rounder go to train guy.
Here is a neat side note, have you heard of Caboose Hobbies in Denver? Well back a few decades the child Actor Gary Coleman was a part owner of that said hobby shop and I had the honor of him fixing a few of my N gauge locomotives, he had a really nice house with a huge layout in his basement that was N guage, but by the mid-90's he sold it and moved to another city, he also had a pet iguana that he took everywhere even to work at the hobby shop, oh those where the days!
I've had my eye on a N gauge set at a vintage store. They kinda want alot for it, but still thinking about taking the plunge. Never knew "what Choo takin bout Willis" was into modeling. Thanks for the great story!
Really good work on the Gilbert worm drive motor. Use mineral oil for cleaning, Don't need smelly mineral spirits, The 303 can pull 40 cars like mine did. Try it yourself!
Thanks. I would need to build a longer test track to pull 40 cars. But that would be impressive to see :-)
TY
:-)
Good job. I have serviced AF trains for many years. There should be a extension piece screwed into the smoke unit to guide the smoke up through the stack on the boiler. They are often red plastic to give a bit of red glow. You are very correct about the importance of the thrust washers. I really like your channel. Thanks. I am really struggling to learn how to repair the mantua tyco diesels with the riveted mu motor.
Thanks for your kind words. I figured there should be a smoke unit extension. If its made of plastic, I can see why it's missing. Probably broke years ago. Those darn MU-2's w/ rivets. I'm working on a video about those. Small machine bolts need to be found to replace those rivets once there drilled out.
@@classicmodeltrains I look forward to your video on the mu-2 motors. You might enjoy my clankety man halloween video fro 2020
nice
Thanks
The metal bits in the plastic weight are scraps from punching out holes in the Erector girders. A good example of early recycling. Many of those weights are a solid zinc alloy casting.
That's exactly what this looks like! Thanks for the great information :-)
Gezz Ron wish my Siblings would if save ALL my original Boxes that my 1st set were in or better yet left them IN the Attic gess I should be Greatful I got the complete set after I'd got back..DAYS with Grandpa, Tractionite ; even SUPERMAN was scared of that stuff! bahah
Siblings...always tearing up the treasures. Hope the set is still running :-)
Your in the same place as my grandmother
In a self inflicted purgatory of depression and hopelessness? That sounds terrible for a sweet little Grandmother. No...No... I kid. Billings, Mt Huh?
Love your style Ron. I've watched a few of your repair n maintenance films. Gone thru dozens of others but find you easiest to follow. I'm new to the hobby (4 years, I'm 76} and I enjoy fixing them, at least making the effort Your help is invaluable. Started with O. Now have HO, G and 3 S models. I have collected mostly second hand. Q how do I find "Owner Manual" for these later models I collected? And parts that are missing. Thanx in advance.
Thank you for your kind words, and welcome to the hobby. Sounds like you do all gauges like me. If I’ve ever wanted owners manuals I’ve had to search the google for them. The HO stuff has a ton of info at HOseeker.org. Lionel O & O-27 has tons of info online. I find the owners manuals don’t have a lot of good information in them. Just basic stuff. If your referencing repair manuals. There are a lot of books out there for repairing all the older larger stuff but I’ve never come across a repair manual for the cheaper HO stuff (yet). Thanks for watching and commenting Sir!!
PS. The parts are a real tough. Lots of google searches. Depends on the manufacture of the item. Some the hobby shop would (should) have and others the company is out of business and no new replacement parts are available. I use eBay a lot for parts. Or buy a parts locomotive and rob needed parts off of it.
Tyco trains are hard to find in my area nobody not even the junk shops don't have any tyco or American flyers trains the hobby shop I go to I can get 027.gauge tubular track made by Lionel if I'm lucky enough for them to have any on hand it's old and very rusted so I soak the track in distilled white for 24nton48. Hours to throughly clean the track and rinse in hot water and baking soda mix then let drain dry and then put track in the oven st 200 degrees for about 30 to 40 minutes on a cookie sheet with cooking paper on the pan so it don't ruin the cookie sheet
Yup Tyco is hard for me to find around here also. Sounds like you got a good system for refurbishing that old 3 rail stuff :-)
Very well done, though you forgot to discuss those traction tire options lol. Also where was the smoke coming from? Did you add the smoke fuel before the video? I would find it weird if the smoke fluid was that old and still going lol. Great video!
Thank you. I did not know there were traction tire options. I figured these vulcanized wheels were the only game in town for this loco. I'm not sure if I added juice to the smoker or not. I must have because that would be a long time for it to just sit around in the wick.
Another great work Ron: congrats! How much time did you spend working in this beautiful old gal? You know that I’m not a S gauger, but I have to tell you that I’m amazed with her mechanism and pre-electronic stuff. Again, great work my friend!
Hello Regis! Thanks for your kind words. To do the work on the loco and film it probably about 10 hours. Plus another 9 hours to edit. If I was to just sit down and do another I suppose it would take 1 1/2 to 2 hours for cleaning and re-lubing.
A lot of work my friend!
The reversing unit was invented and patented by Ives back in the 20's. Lionel was a fierce competitor of theirs. Eventually Ives went bankrupt and Lionel bought them out to get the reversing unit technology.
Hello Greg, Thanks for sharing that story. It's always nice to learn new stuff about the old stuff :-)
Yes, When Ives went bankrupt around 1929, I believe, Lionel bought them out and " inherited " the patented reversing E - Unit technology and assembly parts and machines to manufacture.
Then why didn’t Lionel go to two rail track and reversing unit in locomotive rather than staying with reversing polarity track?
@@jockellis Lionel use three-rail tracks for a variety of reasons, but most of them fall under user safety. Since the rails are the train’s power cable, the primary concern is electrical shorts frying the electronics or causing fires. As such, the third rail keeps the live power separated from the ground.When Lionel began making model trains in 1900, there was no real standard for model trains, except for the 5-rail Marklin standard from 1891. At the time, every manufacturer had its track design, including both two and three-rail formats. Lionel was in the 2-rail camp until they released the first true, 3-rail “Standard Gauge” trains in 1906.Lionel used the center rail as the hot rail, reserving the outer two for ground. This configuration allows for complex track setups while ensuring that the circuit was simple enough for the technology of the day. A 2-rails system must reverse the polarity to avoid short circuits, which was impossible in 1906. This is the same reason many real subway systems use 3-rail tracks as well.The Third Rail Can Act as an Automatic Switch
Through clever use of insulation, one of the rails can act as an automatic push-button switch. This setup lets the train activate crossovers, signals, and other accessories automatically as they draw near. This prevents derailments and adds a bit of realism to your models. Lionel’s “Standard Gauge” tracks became so popular that they became the de facto industry standard. So much so that Lionel had to keep the 3-rail design to remain compatible with preexisting accessories when they introduced the “O gauge” standard, which they would later update to the current “Super O” standard in use today. Only American Flyer used a competing 2-rail “S Gauge” standard. The alternating current electricity coming out of the wall outlet constantly reverses polarity. This reversal happens 60 times per second in North America and 50 in Europe. As such, it requires two live wires, a hot wire (usually black) and a return (usually white). For safety and reliability, a third wire connected to the literal ground is also present, though it is rarely used in model trains.
However, the high voltage of the household current is too unsafe for the exposed metal toy tracks. Therefore, Lionel uses a variable voltage transformer to convert the electricity into something more manageable. It also lets you change the speed of the train, giving you full control over the model.
The electricity then passes down the center rail to the motor in the train itself. After the motor, it uses the wheels to jump to the outer rails to make its journey back to the outlet, passing through the transformer one more time in the process.Lionel did some of the work for you though by using their 3-rail design. Every Lionel track component uses the same 3 rails, letting you combine them without worrying about shorting them. If linked properly, the electricity will remain going in the right direction regardless of how many switches you use.
Two-rail systems require additional equipment to do what three-rail systems do naturally. This additional equipment would then constantly reverse the polarity to ensure no shorts occur anywhere down the line. This would make the trainsets more expensive or limit the possible track layouts.
@@franktino6676 Thanks for telling me little I didn’t know except for dates. I’ve had AF for the past 71 years. I use both DC and AC voltage daily doing magnetic particle inspections; DC to mag with a bit of depth and AC to demag the speed reducer gears and pinions I inspect.
But you still didn’t answer the question as to why Lionel wanted the reverse unit when it didn’t use it. Or was it to keep any other toy train manufacturer from using it?
Love the video! Is there a way I can send some trains to you for repair?
Reach out to me on my Facebook fan page "Classic model trains"
Glad I found this! Getting ready to service my 303, and I found it interesting that you have the raked shell as well. I never did see if you were able to drop the back end of the engine or not. Was that offset rake correct? Another question: do you use chemicals in your ultrasonic cleaner? That chassis came out clean as a whistle!
I'm not sure what you are asking about with a offset rake? I use pure water in the tank of the ultrasonic cleaner. Parts go in a baggie with 50/50 mix of degreaser and water.
@@classicmodeltrainsI was referring to the comment you made about the engine being a bit jacked up in the rear. I couldn't tell if you leveled out the shell. Mine looks the same way, and I thought it was odd that yours was like that as well.
@@hampstrains Oh I got you now. Yes that motor angle is factory.
Hey Ron..... what do you think about using Automotive Brake clean for cleaning all those greased up parts ,motor winding, brushes, ect
Greetings, I did use brake parts cleaner in a previous video and it took the paint off the drivers. It works well for removing grease and what not, but just be aware of painted stuff.
Great video--thanks. How do you replace knuckle couplers on a 303? There is not ONE person on You Tube that has done this. They have done link to knuckle and knuckle to pike or whatever the other one is but I can't find one on how to replace a knuckle coupler. You could be the first.
Thanks for your kind words. I have yet to change out couplers on these A.F.'s so I'm not gunna be much good at answering your question. I suppose once I get a layout for "S" gauge and more rolling stock I will be doing some coupler modifications.
Have cpl o scale that does same. The lock out switch.
Dang loco out switches. Get me every time :-)
Nice work. What do you think, between the Lionel and the Flyer, which is better? (That might be a loaded question....) I see you have one of the fancier passenger cars. Those are really nice.
Hello Tim! As a kid I only knew about Lionel & Marx O-27. When I got exposed to HO, that gauge made O-27 look "funny". Flyer "S" is 1/64 scale "O" gauge on 2 rail....so It looks more closer to prototype. Now I have picked up some Lionel true "O" gauge and that is impressive. To make a short story long, If I was to build another gauge layout I would go "S" gauge. Kind of an underdog.....but I like underdogs. I see there is a lot of classic stuff and action accessories available for AF-S. It would be great to collect these working antiques :-). That "heavy" passenger car is a beauty. Got 2 lightweight cars, same color, but the older couplers, so I could not make a long train for this Vid.
@@classicmodeltrains Just to clarify the scales: O scale is 1/48 (or 1/4" = 1foot) S scale is 3/16 (3/16" = 1 foot) and to make it even more confusing the Flyer Pre war made 3/16 O scale to run on 3 rail track!!!
I also need to get an ultrasonic cleaner I have that engine and the front axle is gummed up so i either buy a wheel puller or an ultrasonic cleaner. Or both.
@@MygrandpasTrain I’m aware of the scales. I recently read S gauge is 1/64th scale size and is using O gauge 2 rail track. I could have misinterpreted it. perhaps I should measure the gauge of the O track and the S track and see if it’s the same.
@@MygrandpasTrain P.S. ultrasonic cleaners are awesome!! Worth the investment! :-)
LOL!!
Yeah…I make names up for stuff too!!
If I don’t know what it’s called!
My Kids and my Grandkids have the burden of knowing a name but not the right one!!
LOL
I noticed that the loco wasn’t jacked up on the rear end.
How did you fix it?
Hello Jeb. The previous owner installed the chassis incorrectly. It has to be under those metal tabs that are bolted into the boiler shell.
Sir: Did you "quarter " the drive wheels? I missed it if you did. Seems both are synchonized.
Hello William, I did not remove the wheels from the axel's. I do not have the special tools to do so. I did check the quartering, and all seemed right
There should be an L-shaped bracket that holds the light bulb receptacle. It screws into the front of the engine from underneath just behind the cow-catcher. This prevents the need to de-solder the lamp when disassembling. Also, maybe I missed it but why did you remove the gear from the choo-choo unit? The piston comes out with a bolt. Just wondering why you removed it. Thanks.
Hello Sean, Thanks for commenting. The original light bulb and holder assembly was / has been replaced by a previous owner. They installed a LED. I removed the gear for the piston because I was hoping to gain better access to the main drive gear. The amount of automotive chassis grease was a bit much and wanted to clean it as easy as possible.
You don’t have to remove the choo choo unit gear unless it is damaged. And I’ve never seen one damaged.
I took it apart as much as I could to get my learning on. See what it takes, and does. Figure out the inner most workings. The hole in the end of the chuff cylinder could have been plugged with debris. But now I know it's not. It's good to hear they are engineered pretty bullet proof. Thanks for the information :-)
You talked about rewinding your reverser coil. What is the wire size and the number of turns. I would like to rewind one myslf.
Hello Tom, I talked about it but have not yet had to do it. I dont know the gauge or how many winds. One day when I do have to re-wind a coil I will measure the wire gauge with a micrometer and count the turns as I remove it. I'm kinda looking forward to doing a rewind.
I have another question and then I'll leave you alone. If you have a simple oval track with just 18 pieces and you want to increase that size by 3 or 4 times, will you need more power to run that? A bigger transformer or what? I am guessing probably not since it is AC but I could be wrong. I know you would if it was DC. Love your videos.
If you add more track, you DO NOT need to have a larger transformer. You do need to make sure all the track connector pins are clean and making good connection. Perhaps as the layout gets larger, run a buss line and "drops". I show how to do it in my video about making 50 year old track look expensive. sorta towards the middle to the end of the video.
@@classicmodeltrains Thank you. I'll check out your 50 year old track video.
Marx also calls it a E unit . when not working it`s easier to by pass it .
Thanks. I shall soon one day find out why there are called "E" units. My quest continues....... :-)
@@classicmodeltrains I was told Lionel had the first reverse unit and they called it a reverse unit and the Ammerican Flyer came along and called their reverse unit a reverse unit and Lionel said you can't do that, so American Flyer changed their name to E unit. But that still doesn't explain why they used E.
@@sharpenflat6002 as my research continued I found out Lionel offered there locos with or without a reversing solenoid in the prewar days. To signify if the loco had a reverser in it they would add a “E” to the end of the locomotives part number. Perhaps that’s where the slang came from. I have not heard anything about AF starting it, but my research shall continue on.
@@classicmodeltrains What does the "E" stand for? That is what I would like to know.
@@sharpenflat6002 I'm still working on that one. If I was in the marketing department I would have called it a "R" unit :-)
Hi
Hello Alex
I am looking for a web page that works on "S" traina and accessories. Can you help?
thegilbertgallery.org, wingstracksguns.com, rfgco.com are a few I've been using. Hope this helps
Does anyone know if Isopropyl Alcohol is harmful to either the plastic wheels or the rubber wheel surface on locomotives? Thanks.
American Flyer "S" gauge I believe have metal wheels and vulcanized rubber traction tires. I believe rubbing alcohol should be just fine on them.
Is this Vice Grip's cousin?
Not as far as I know, but were from the same "Neck of the woods"
Hey Ron can u PM me . I have got a few questions for you on part an engine clean ups I've recently picked up
I don't know where to PM you at. I'm on Facebook. link is in the description
@Classic Model Trains so am I under A.E. Studt an messenger
Flyer guys hate it when people call the reverse unit an E unit. That’s a Lionel term. Ha ha.
I cant remember what I called it in this video. If I did call it a E-unit, I know that's wrong.