I built a ship with a 4 cylinder 3x3 Engine, I used radiator cooling (on all slot things) but it didnt cool a single bit, then i use ocean cooling, still, no cooling, and this video will probably help me with making a better cooling system to actually cool my 4 cylinder engine.
and if you didnt know, you dont have to have both sides of the coolant manifold connected, you can have one connected to one end of the rad and another one on the other side
One important thing: they changed the radiators to be realistic, meaning that they transfer more heat to the ambient when they are hotter, always wait on these tests until the temp ist up to 80 degrees, on some of my creations, the engines heat up quickly but hold the temp at 80-90 degrees. Another thing is that I like to use impellers as pumps, since they are not depended on the battery/generator and are powered by the engine. On the question whether a low or high flow rate is better, I can give a simple answer, if the engine overheats but the radiators are cold, you need to increase flow rate and therefore heat transfer between the engine and the radiator, if the radiator is overheating you just have too less, there is no workaround other than adding more (or other forms of cooling, e. g. air-liquid heat exchangers) this also explains the thing whether multiple radiators in series are better than in parallel, just like the flow rate, if the engine is overheating but the radiators arent, add more pumps/parallel radiators, if the radiators are overheating, you can put some in series. Furthermore, the difference in the temp increase for the difference in flow rate is also just an illusion, the higher flowrate will obviously cool the engine more, but the radiators will heat up faster too, so it comes our to the same result, for short cool lines, one small pump on each, way to and back from the radiator(s) is fine. Otherwise good video with interesting results!
Also, for people here struggling with cooling... if you have a setup with a radiator, and your engine is overheating, it is simply because the load on your engine is too high. The LOAD on the engine is what cause most of the heat. If it happens, reduce the gearing ratio... iff it still overheat at a low gear setup, add a cylinder to your engine... until it stops overheating. I have small engine not overheating at 30 rps... but you need to keep the load reasonable (like in real life..)
So I weasted about 4 hours of my time today just troubleshooting why a simple 8 then 12 cylinder 1x1 modular engine kept overheating. Short of it is, even below 15 RPS it would often reach 120* after 5 minutes or so of driving my simple starter workshop sized boat build. I tried using large pumps for both coolant in/out and 2 different coolant loops on differing banks of cylinders, but no real difference (yes, flow was 250+ L/s so that shouldn't be it). Tried 3x3 electric fan radiators submerged in water and just seawater in/out (works like magic with small prefab engines). Finally the only way I got it to not overheat over a full tank of medium sized fuel for 15 minutes was to run it at 12 RPS - sub optimal because that means, adding more cylinders to my build and gearing up to keep RPS at ~12 in order to achieve practical sailing speeds (20 knots is not real life friendly for the distances missions can be mid game). Basically, the engine stays at ~ 95*C at 12 rps and that's all I got after wasting so much time. I didn't bother with a 3rd coolant loop. as even their own "Preset" 1x1 modular engine easily exceeds 95*C if left running. Pretty frustrating way to spend my weekend play time. Ah well it is Stormworks after all.
Based on my experiments yesterday I tried: - Air intakes from a fixed volume structure - Exhaust into a vacuum chamber (the update yesterday let’s you use fluid spanner’s to set the atmos. to 1%) (fyi setting it to zero just fills it with air at STP) - Partially filled Fuel tanks (2 at 50% air: Diesel vs 1 at 100% diesel) that provide air intake AND fuel intake (with an air-in syphon valve) AFR set at 14.0 and at 30 RPS, to a large Generator, no gearing My findings: the fuel always run out first before the air ran out, or the exhaust pressure became a factor, lol 3 hours spent failing at least showed me it makes no difference :P lol Edit: One thing I will say: if you’re using modular alternators and electric coolant pumps etc, these need to be taken into account when we’re talking about energy *generated*, I used a separate circuit for the pumps, modular alternators etc, because if the watts you’re recording are also feeding the electric pumps then you’re technically producing “less” than you’re actually recording My modular alternators feed a separate circuit (linked with the starters and the pumps), and have the generator feeding an empty battery (with only the generator connected to it), as we’re talking about an diesel generator setup, we need to look at *net* power output, ie the battery charge accrued, not just watts per second (that you kay also feed the pumps from)
Does anyone know why batteries drain so quickly?. i haven't had this problem before. I do have like a million things hooked up to the batteries, but even then, the batteries would drain slowly, but now they drain quick.
My only gripe with the modular stuff is using it in boats. IRL it doesnt matter the load, efficiency, power, whatever, the engine will not overheat, period. Pumping constant say 75 degree F water into and then out of the engine it will never overheat. Hate the modular stuff for this reason. Makes tons of power and is perfect for large ships, except you cant keep temps under control without a ridiclous cooling setup and low load.
The fuel tanks have a pressure output now. My plane engines seem to stall randomly after 5-10min of flying even if my main and reserve tank are like 80% Full and the intakes are at the bottom of the tank (some at the front and some at the back in case of tilt) + I got 2 small pumps on each engine to make sure the fuel pressure is high enough. It seems like the problem just won't stop existing... I tested air filters and air scoop intakes, cooling (but the engines fail before overheating) etc... They just stop. Definetly weird Wait, could that be because my tanks need a bleeder valve? I guess it shouldnt be a problem after such a short amount of time, but I will try it out
realistically u should only need a heat exchanger as that is what almost all marine engines use where they mix seawater and coolant. feels unrealistic tro have a closed loop with a car radiatior to just cool a generator :/ Also love the vids. ur like MRN jersey
Are you displaying the radiator temp or the block temp? Also, in all of my research and attempts to cool these medium modular engines GrumpyOldMan's article and configuration was the best thing I could find. I have adjusted it slightly to add more water to the system to find optimal flow rate, and it works extremely well.
this may work with a generator but it doesnt work with my boat 3x3 modular inline 5 engine. So stupid this game cant fix the overheating. I put 2 pumps and a radiator per cylinder and still goes over 110°C
Still don't understand how cooling works. why just dropping two pipes into the ocean at the same level when it shows zero circulation cools better than the same thing but with a pump (one or two).
Yes, finally up-to-date how to cool modular engines video man I wish I had this one. I was playing stormworks a while ago.
I built a ship with a 4 cylinder 3x3 Engine, I used radiator cooling (on all slot things) but it didnt cool a single bit, then i use ocean cooling, still, no cooling, and this video will probably help me with making a better cooling system to actually cool my 4 cylinder engine.
and if you didnt know, you dont have to have both sides of the coolant manifold connected, you can have one connected to one end of the rad and another one on the other side
Love the Peguin on the thumbnail.
Gotta stay cool :P
you make amazing videos never stop making them
Thank you :)
W video yet again 454ss
One important thing: they changed the radiators to be realistic, meaning that they transfer more heat to the ambient when they are hotter, always wait on these tests until the temp ist up to 80 degrees, on some of my creations, the engines heat up quickly but hold the temp at 80-90 degrees. Another thing is that I like to use impellers as pumps, since they are not depended on the battery/generator and are powered by the engine. On the question whether a low or high flow rate is better, I can give a simple answer, if the engine overheats but the radiators are cold, you need to increase flow rate and therefore heat transfer between the engine and the radiator, if the radiator is overheating you just have too less, there is no workaround other than adding more (or other forms of cooling, e. g. air-liquid heat exchangers) this also explains the thing whether multiple radiators in series are better than in parallel, just like the flow rate, if the engine is overheating but the radiators arent, add more pumps/parallel radiators, if the radiators are overheating, you can put some in series. Furthermore, the difference in the temp increase for the difference in flow rate is also just an illusion, the higher flowrate will obviously cool the engine more, but the radiators will heat up faster too, so it comes our to the same result, for short cool lines, one small pump on each, way to and back from the radiator(s) is fine. Otherwise good video with interesting results!
Also, for people here struggling with cooling... if you have a setup with a radiator, and your engine is overheating, it is simply because the load on your engine is too high. The LOAD on the engine is what cause most of the heat. If it happens, reduce the gearing ratio... iff it still overheat at a low gear setup, add a cylinder to your engine... until it stops overheating. I have small engine not overheating at 30 rps... but you need to keep the load reasonable (like in real life..)
Really good and informative video! Thank you so much for your hard work 👏
So I weasted about 4 hours of my time today just troubleshooting why a simple 8 then 12 cylinder 1x1 modular engine kept overheating. Short of it is, even below 15 RPS it would often reach 120* after 5 minutes or so of driving my simple starter workshop sized boat build. I tried using large pumps for both coolant in/out and 2 different coolant loops on differing banks of cylinders, but no real difference (yes, flow was 250+ L/s so that shouldn't be it). Tried 3x3 electric fan radiators submerged in water and just seawater in/out (works like magic with small prefab engines). Finally the only way I got it to not overheat over a full tank of medium sized fuel for 15 minutes was to run it at 12 RPS - sub optimal because that means, adding more cylinders to my build and gearing up to keep RPS at ~12 in order to achieve practical sailing speeds (20 knots is not real life friendly for the distances missions can be mid game). Basically, the engine stays at ~ 95*C at 12 rps and that's all I got after wasting so much time.
I didn't bother with a 3rd coolant loop. as even their own "Preset" 1x1 modular engine easily exceeds 95*C if left running. Pretty frustrating way to spend my weekend play time. Ah well it is Stormworks after all.
Based on my experiments yesterday I tried:
- Air intakes from a fixed volume structure
- Exhaust into a vacuum chamber (the update yesterday let’s you use fluid spanner’s to set the atmos. to 1%) (fyi setting it to zero just fills it with air at STP)
- Partially filled Fuel tanks (2 at 50% air: Diesel vs 1 at 100% diesel) that provide air intake AND fuel intake (with an air-in syphon valve)
AFR set at 14.0 and at 30 RPS, to a large Generator, no gearing
My findings: the fuel always run out first before the air ran out, or the exhaust pressure became a factor, lol
3 hours spent failing at least showed me it makes no difference :P lol
Edit: One thing I will say: if you’re using modular alternators and electric coolant pumps etc, these need to be taken into account when we’re talking about energy *generated*, I used a separate circuit for the pumps, modular alternators etc, because if the watts you’re recording are also feeding the electric pumps then you’re technically producing “less” than you’re actually recording
My modular alternators feed a separate circuit (linked with the starters and the pumps), and have the generator feeding an empty battery (with only the generator connected to it), as we’re talking about an diesel generator setup, we need to look at *net* power output, ie the battery charge accrued, not just watts per second (that you kay also feed the pumps from)
Does parallel or series radiators have an effect?
A godsend
Does anyone know why batteries drain so quickly?.
i haven't had this problem before. I do have like a million things hooked up to the batteries, but even then, the batteries would drain slowly, but now they drain quick.
Interesting - I have not noticed a difference recently with the past
My only gripe with the modular stuff is using it in boats. IRL it doesnt matter the load, efficiency, power, whatever, the engine will not overheat, period. Pumping constant say 75 degree F water into and then out of the engine it will never overheat. Hate the modular stuff for this reason. Makes tons of power and is perfect for large ships, except you cant keep temps under control without a ridiclous cooling setup and low load.
The fuel tanks have a pressure output now. My plane engines seem to stall randomly after 5-10min of flying even if my main and reserve tank are like 80% Full and the intakes are at the bottom of the tank (some at the front and some at the back in case of tilt) + I got 2 small pumps on each engine to make sure the fuel pressure is high enough. It seems like the problem just won't stop existing...
I tested air filters and air scoop intakes, cooling (but the engines fail before overheating) etc... They just stop.
Definetly weird
Wait, could that be because my tanks need a bleeder valve? I guess it shouldnt be a problem after such a short amount of time, but I will try it out
Have major cooling problems with a 14 cylinder 5x5 box engine hoping this will help
realistically u should only need a heat exchanger as that is what almost all marine engines use where they mix seawater and coolant. feels unrealistic tro have a closed loop with a car radiatior to just cool a generator :/
Also love the vids. ur like MRN jersey
Are you displaying the radiator temp or the block temp? Also, in all of my research and attempts to cool these medium modular engines GrumpyOldMan's article and configuration was the best thing I could find. I have adjusted it slightly to add more water to the system to find optimal flow rate, and it works extremely well.
That is the block temperature! Right :)
this may work with a generator but it doesnt work with my boat 3x3 modular inline 5 engine. So stupid this game cant fix the overheating. I put 2 pumps and a radiator per cylinder and still goes over 110°C
15:19 fuel tank pressure
Still don't understand how cooling works. why just dropping two pipes into the ocean at the same level when it shows zero circulation cools better than the same thing but with a pump (one or two).
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Congratulations 🎉
I got competition😢 i am second now 😢😢😢
@@Demono_logy I just happened to be at the right place at the right time
@@turtleman-gaming makes sense...
@@Demono_logy I really do like 454ss videos about stormworks
Update pipeline addon please, I'm quite literally begging you.